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0:00:02 > 0:00:05- The desert - - arid, desolate, uncompromising.
0:00:08 > 0:00:12- A barren landscape - that extends far and wide.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21- But it is - in these unfamiliar places...
0:00:22 > 0:00:25- ..that nature thrives - and inhabitants dwell.
0:00:28 > 0:00:32- With vigour and resilience, - they have learnt to survive...
0:00:33 > 0:00:36- ..and forged a unique way of life.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43- But today, the modern world - is turning the screw.
0:00:43 > 0:00:47- Trade and industry - are coveting the desert's resources.
0:00:47 > 0:00:52- Natives have had to adapt - quicker than ever before.
0:00:56 > 0:01:00- This is the story - of resilient and tenacious people...
0:01:01 > 0:01:03- ..striving for the right to live...
0:01:04 > 0:01:08- ..in the most - challenging places on earth.
0:01:30 > 0:01:33- Barren, - with no vegetation, animals...
0:01:34 > 0:01:36- ..or people.
0:01:37 > 0:01:39- That's what - you'd expect from a desert.
0:01:40 > 0:01:42- But the Thar breaks every rule.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52- This is a desert - in the Rajasthan province of India.
0:01:52 > 0:01:58- It's paradise for me since I always - try to capture life's beauty...
0:01:59 > 0:02:02- ..through the lens of my camera.
0:02:06 > 0:02:11- For centuries people have settled in - the Thar, despite the lack of water.
0:02:12 > 0:02:14- I can't see a thing!
0:02:14 > 0:02:18- But there has been - a sharp increase in its population.
0:02:18 > 0:02:23- I'm on a journey to discover - the reasons behind this rise.
0:02:27 > 0:02:30- The desert is full of contrasts.
0:02:30 > 0:02:34- Some refer to the Thar - as the Land of the Dead...
0:02:34 > 0:02:36- ..since it's so arid and infertile.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- But as I look around...
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- ..that description - is far from the truth.
0:02:42 > 0:02:45- The Thar is alive - and teeming with life.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48- 23 million currently live here.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51- In a place - with so few natural resources...
0:02:51 > 0:02:55- ..how is it able to sustain - such a multitude of people?
0:02:55 > 0:02:57- How do they feed themselves?
0:02:57 > 0:03:00- How are they able - to survive here at all?
0:03:08 > 0:03:11- My photographic journey - begins in Jaisalmer.
0:03:21 > 0:03:23- It's a strange place to begin.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26- A city in the heart of the desert.
0:03:30 > 0:03:35- King Rawal Jaisal chose this site - to found the city 1,000 years ago.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43- They say the king - received an order to build here.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46- An order - from Lord Krishna in heaven.
0:03:47 > 0:03:49- A wise move, if you ask me!
0:04:02 > 0:04:04- Jaisalmer is situated in an oasis...
0:04:05 > 0:04:08- ..along an ancient trade route - between Asia and Europe.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12- For centuries - people traded silk and spices...
0:04:13 > 0:04:17- ..among many other luxury goods - and Jaisalmer was thriving.
0:04:28 > 0:04:32- But the city has never before - experienced such a population rise.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37- The increase threatens - to undermine the very wonder...
0:04:37 > 0:04:39- ..that attracts tourists here.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44- This is the spectacular fort - built by Rawal Jaisal.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- It's undoubtedly - one of India's treasures.
0:04:50 > 0:04:54- More than 5,000 people - live within the fort's walls.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58- Over half a million tourists - come here annually...
0:04:58 > 0:05:00- ..and each one needs water.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02- Where does that water go?
0:05:02 > 0:05:07- Unfortunately, it seeps right down - to this fort's foundations.
0:05:10 > 0:05:12- The fort is built on sand...
0:05:13 > 0:05:17- ..and water threatens to - destabilize the entire structure.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- It's a very serious situation...
0:05:21 > 0:05:26- ..especially for those who live in - the shadow of the ancient buildings.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31- You can get a very good view of - the problems from here, this spot.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34- The challenge - is to treat the problem...
0:05:34 > 0:05:36- ..without endangering the residents.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- Sabir has just explained to me - about this tower.
0:05:40 > 0:05:45- It's coming away from the main - building, leaving an enormous gap.
0:05:45 > 0:05:49- It's a problem for families - living underneath here.
0:05:50 > 0:05:55- They're going to pull it down safely - to protect the families.
0:05:55 > 0:05:59- Bindhu Manchanda - is well accustomed to the problem.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02- She leads a team - of craftsmen and experts...
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- ..who are struggling - to restore the fort.
0:06:08 > 0:06:11- Bindhu says water is the enemy.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17- This fort is not made for water.
0:06:17 > 0:06:20- There was no tap water here before.
0:06:20 > 0:06:24- Then, in the 1970s, tap water - was introduced for residents.
0:06:28 > 0:06:32- Tap water - was a blessing for the residents...
0:06:32 > 0:06:34- ..but a tragedy for the fort.
0:06:38 > 0:06:42- Proper drainage systems - were not established.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46- There were some in place - but they weren't adequate.
0:06:49 > 0:06:54- With a growth in tourism, many - converted their homes into hotels.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57- Crowds came here - on their holidays...
0:06:57 > 0:07:00- ..and used more and more water.
0:07:04 > 0:07:07- The technical problems - are complex...
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- ..but they must be solved - without impinging on the lives...
0:07:11 > 0:07:13- ..of the residents.
0:07:16 > 0:07:20- This place is like a museum. - It's incredibly pretty.
0:07:20 > 0:07:25- You could say it's living and - breathing through the people here.
0:07:28 > 0:07:32- To preserve it and maintain its - cultural identity is very important.
0:07:34 > 0:07:37- The architecture is formidable.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41- The purpose of the fretwork - is to allow cold air to circulate...
0:07:42 > 0:07:44- ..to regulate - the temperature inside.
0:07:45 > 0:07:47- It's important for the restorers...
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- ..to replicate the skills - of the ancient craftsmen.
0:07:53 > 0:07:56- One member of the team - has experienced...
0:07:57 > 0:07:59- ..walking the path of his ancestors.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- We started producing - our own lime 15 years ago.
0:08:06 > 0:08:10- This camel has been working for us - throughout that time.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15- He's our camel lime expert!
0:08:19 > 0:08:23- I'd say that Bindhu's - in love with the fort.
0:08:25 > 0:08:29- There are so many things - about this fort that are dear to me.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33- The fact that it's made - of that one same stone.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36- The colour is so soothing.
0:08:36 > 0:08:41- It was built during a time - when the desert had no resources.
0:08:41 > 0:08:46- No water, no trees, - no greenery at all.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50- But through skill and hard work...
0:08:50 > 0:08:53- ..the people erected - this beautiful building.
0:09:00 > 0:09:03- There's a wonderful ambience - here in Jaisalmer.
0:09:03 > 0:09:08- The fort is strong and imposing - - it's been here for centuries.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11- It'd be a huge shame - if the balance was lost.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15- If they don't sustain the balance - between tourism...
0:09:15 > 0:09:18- ..and the traditions - of the people...
0:09:18 > 0:09:23- ..it'd be a pity because generations - to come wouldn't be part of it.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27- But with Bindhu on board, - I'm sure they'll succeed.
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0:09:33 > 0:09:33- Subtitles
0:09:33 > 0:09:35- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:09:42 > 0:09:44- I've come to - the Thar Desert in India...
0:09:45 > 0:09:48- ..to witness how quickly - desert life is changing.
0:09:51 > 0:09:56- The old way of life and the old - modes of transport are under threat.
0:09:58 > 0:10:04- For centuries, the camels have - carried people across the desert.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- This is a creature - that has adapted perfectly.
0:10:10 > 0:10:15- With strength and stamina, - it can transport people and goods...
0:10:16 > 0:10:19- ..over vast distances - of parched land.
0:10:20 > 0:10:22- But change is on the horizon.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- In the past decade, - the number of camels has halved.
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- As lorries and 4x4 vehicles - replace the camel...
0:10:33 > 0:10:37- ..this beast's future is uncertain.
0:10:41 > 0:10:43- In order to learn more...
0:10:44 > 0:10:46- ..I visit a research centre...
0:10:46 > 0:10:50- ..where they are weighing up - the camel's future.
0:10:51 > 0:10:56- Apparently the camel's problems - begin at a young age.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59- This is a little pet calf.
0:11:00 > 0:11:02- He's been rejected by his mother.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05- They tell me - the calf's mouth is too big...
0:11:06 > 0:11:08- ..and the mother's teat - is too small.
0:11:08 > 0:11:12- He will have to be bottle fed - until he's six months.
0:11:12 > 0:11:14- He will eat solids at three months.
0:11:15 > 0:11:18- His legs are bent because - he's not getting enough milk.
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- More calcium - will straighten his legs.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23- This one needs help.
0:11:26 > 0:11:31- It's the scientists' aim is to - learn more about the milk's virtues.
0:11:31 > 0:11:33- Lots of milk must be tested.
0:11:33 > 0:11:36- I've never milked a camel before.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41- The calf's - going straight for the bucket.
0:11:41 > 0:11:46- Because the milk's squirting over - the bucket, the calf's going for it.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49- The milk doesn't just provide - nutrition for the calf.
0:11:49 > 0:11:54- It's a tradition in the Thar - to feed camel's milk to babies...
0:11:54 > 0:11:57- ..who are unable - to tolerate breast or cow's milk.
0:12:00 > 0:12:02- This camel was born last night.
0:12:03 > 0:12:05- She's feeding from her mother.
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- This milk has many virtues...
0:12:08 > 0:12:11- ..and I'm here - to find out more about it.
0:12:11 > 0:12:17- Research at the centre's laboratory - is led by Dr Nitin Patil...
0:12:17 > 0:12:21- ..who's discovering if camel's milk - has health benefits for adults...
0:12:22 > 0:12:24- ..as well as babies.
0:12:24 > 0:12:29- Dr Patil explained that this machine - analyses the milk's quality.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33- It records calcium levels, - types of protein and temperature.
0:12:33 > 0:12:38- They're searching for a special - protein called beta-lactoglobelin...
0:12:38 > 0:12:41- Beta-lactoglobelin.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45- ..which is an alternative - if you have an allergy to milk.
0:12:45 > 0:12:49- They're conducting research - into that as well.
0:12:50 > 0:12:52- Beta-lactoglobelin.
0:12:55 > 0:13:00- However the chemical is pronounced, - the milk has health benefits.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03- But there is - more than one way to take it.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06- Here at the centre...
0:13:06 > 0:13:11- ..Dr Patil is eager to make sure - the visitors enjoy the taste.
0:13:12 > 0:13:15- It's been made - into ice cream called kulfi.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- This helps with diabetes, asthma...
0:13:22 > 0:13:26- ..tuberculosis, people experiencing - hair loss or skin complaints.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30- It contains many nutrients, - so I'm going to try one.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- The crew's having one too.
0:13:33 > 0:13:35- Right, here goes.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40- I'm enjoying myself. I'm on holiday!
0:13:44 > 0:13:47- Another unique facet - to Dr Patil's centre...
0:13:48 > 0:13:53- ..is the way in which the scientists - and the Raika tribe work together.
0:13:56 > 0:14:00- The Raika are traditional herders.
0:14:00 > 0:14:04- Nobody understands camels - better than them.
0:14:06 > 0:14:08- HE SPEAKS HINDI
0:14:18 > 0:14:23- The mother, the grandmother. - I recognise every generation.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26- There's the daughter. - There's the mother.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30- We know them - as well as we know our own children.
0:14:36 > 0:14:39- Remembering the names of the camels - is one thing...
0:14:40 > 0:14:44- ..but there's only one way - to get a know a creature like this.
0:14:44 > 0:14:49- I suppose you must get on a camel if - you're at a camel research centre.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53- I just need to find the stirrup. - I've short little legs.
0:14:53 > 0:14:55- I've never done this before.
0:14:55 > 0:14:58- OK, I'll hold this. Straight back.
0:14:59 > 0:15:02- Think Shan Cothi - on the back of a horse!
0:15:02 > 0:15:04- Right, off we go.
0:15:04 > 0:15:07- If I'm not back in five minutes...
0:15:07 > 0:15:10- ..phone Ela and Tomi - and tell them I'm fine!
0:15:11 > 0:15:13- SHE SHRIEKS
0:15:24 > 0:15:28- The team's work - isn't just restricted to the centre.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34- We're following the scientists - to a village in the desert...
0:15:34 > 0:15:37- ..where they're - setting up a clinic...
0:15:37 > 0:15:42- ..so that farmers can - get advice and treatment for free.
0:15:48 > 0:15:51- The clinic - always receives a warm welcome...
0:15:51 > 0:15:54- ..from the villagers, - if not the camels.
0:15:54 > 0:15:57- CAMEL BRAYS
0:15:57 > 0:16:01- It's obvious this is not - only beneficial for the camels.
0:16:02 > 0:16:04- Scientists study the relationship...
0:16:05 > 0:16:08- ..between the camel - and their herders.
0:16:10 > 0:16:12- They're part of the family.
0:16:12 > 0:16:17- They give us milk and they're our - means of delivering drinking water.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26- Villagers rely on these camels - for their everyday needs...
0:16:27 > 0:16:30- ..and for the future - of their families in the desert.
0:16:30 > 0:16:34- Usually, the herders treat the - camels with traditional medicine...
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- ..but sometimes they're pleased - to receive expert advice.
0:16:42 > 0:16:47- The scientists ask the farmers - about their camels' health...
0:16:47 > 0:16:50- ..and then they - can examine them and treat them.
0:16:50 > 0:16:54- I've seen them giving antibiotics - and extracting blood.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- The famers - receive advice and medication...
0:16:58 > 0:17:02- ..and the scientists take the blood - samples back to the laboratory...
0:17:03 > 0:17:05- ..to be tested for ailments.
0:17:14 > 0:17:19- I'm starting to realize - that life in the Thar is a miracle.
0:17:19 > 0:17:23- I'm surprised - that anyone can live here.
0:17:27 > 0:17:31- Harsh landscapes, sandstorms, - shifting sand dunes..
0:17:31 > 0:17:35- ..sweltering seasons...
0:17:35 > 0:17:37- ..and months of drought.
0:17:40 > 0:17:46- Ancient tradition refers to the Thar - as Marusthali - the Land of Death.
0:17:52 > 0:17:55- But the name Marusthali - stems from the word "marho"...
0:17:56 > 0:18:00- ..which refers to the hollows - in between the sand dunes.
0:18:03 > 0:18:06- When the rains come, - in one seasonal flood...
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- ..to the hollow runs the water.
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- The marho is like an oasis...
0:18:12 > 0:18:17- ..sustaining pasture for animals to - graze and enabling people to live.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24- From Jaisalmer - I travel southwards to Pithorai...
0:18:24 > 0:18:27- ..to explore - rural life in the wilderness.
0:18:33 > 0:18:37- Life here - revolves around simple daily needs.
0:18:41 > 0:18:43- Like that?
0:18:48 > 0:18:50- I'm helping with the water.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- This is heavy - and the women do this twice a day.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- It's quite a trek - back to the village.
0:19:09 > 0:19:14- It gives me a chance - to consider all the daily chores.
0:19:18 > 0:19:22- The priority is fetching water. - This is our biggest concern.
0:19:22 > 0:19:27- Then we have to think about animal - fodder for the goats and sheep.
0:19:28 > 0:19:30- As long as it rains - from time to time...
0:19:30 > 0:19:33- ..everything will be alright.
0:19:33 > 0:19:38- The community is one large extended - family living in six cottages.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43- Although dark inside, they shelter - the family from the summer sun...
0:19:44 > 0:19:46- ..and the cold winter nights.
0:19:50 > 0:19:52- The women divide - the daily chores between them.
0:19:53 > 0:19:55- Morning calls for a cup of chai...
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- ..a Masala tea with - a little spice and black pepper.
0:20:05 > 0:20:08- The men must be served first.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12- They will lead the animals - out of the village to graze.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- It is the women's duty - to look after the remaining animals.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22- Feeding the goats - is equally as important...
0:20:22 > 0:20:27- ..since it's these animals' milk - that sustains the entire village.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30- Can I have a go?
0:20:30 > 0:20:34- Maybe milking a goat - is easier than milking a camel?
0:20:35 > 0:20:37- One's working.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40- Maybe not.
0:20:40 > 0:20:44- It's going everywhere, - and she's laughing.
0:20:45 > 0:20:49- We'll have milk tonight, guys, - and perhaps a bit of cheese.
0:20:49 > 0:20:52- I'll be here till midnight - at this rate.
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- The next job is the cooking.
0:20:55 > 0:21:00- Rajasthani cuisine is popular in - Wales as it is all over the world.
0:21:00 > 0:21:02- The cooking methods...
0:21:03 > 0:21:07- ..have been passed down - through the females for generations.
0:21:07 > 0:21:12- They know how to prepare nutritious - food in the middle of the desert.
0:21:20 > 0:21:24- Food like meat is avoided - in the heat of the Thar...
0:21:24 > 0:21:26- ..since it rots quickly.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- Cooking with milk and ghee - saves water...
0:21:32 > 0:21:34- ..which is vital.
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- Every drop is precious.
0:21:41 > 0:21:45- That's why - they wash the dishes in sand!
0:21:51 > 0:21:54- Housework and raising children.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58- But the women of Pithorai - do much more besides.
0:21:58 > 0:22:03- It is they, not the men, - who strive to sustain the village.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09- Today they need firewood.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- I join the group - who are going to collect it.
0:22:31 > 0:22:36- The chopped ends go on one side - and the pointed bits the other side.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40- I think!
0:22:41 > 0:22:43- This one has two chopped bits.
0:22:43 > 0:22:45- No? Oh, OK.
0:22:56 > 0:23:01- Away from the village and out of - the men's earshot, the women relax.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04- They remove their scarves...
0:23:04 > 0:23:09- ..and joke about how the men would - cope if the women went on strike.
0:23:12 > 0:23:14- They might do the work...
0:23:14 > 0:23:16- ..but nothing would be clean.
0:23:17 > 0:23:20- They'd leave dirty dishes - and wouldn't clean the house.
0:23:20 > 0:23:23- They don't know - how to milk the cattle.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27- They might milk the goats - and make tea for themselves.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30- They chop wood, carry wood...
0:23:30 > 0:23:33- ..prepare food, tidy up...
0:23:33 > 0:23:35- ..rear children...
0:23:35 > 0:23:37- ..give birth to children.
0:23:38 > 0:23:42- These are some of the - hardest working women I've ever met.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02- These women are also builders.
0:24:02 > 0:24:04- Today, - in one of the village's houses...
0:24:05 > 0:24:07- ..a new floor needs to be laid.
0:24:07 > 0:24:12- The desert's natural resources - are the only tools available.
0:24:12 > 0:24:15- The first step is to dig for clay.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27- Then trample the mud - with manure to make daub.
0:24:28 > 0:24:33- It's an old tradition yet - recycling like this is contemporary.
0:24:33 > 0:24:35- The children also get involved.
0:24:38 > 0:24:41- It looks like - she's enjoying the work.
0:24:41 > 0:24:44- It's probably nice and cold - on her feet in the sun.
0:24:48 > 0:24:50- And now for the final stage.
0:24:51 > 0:24:56- The hands that milk, cook, carry and - dig are strong and capable enough...
0:24:56 > 0:24:58- ..to finish this task too.
0:24:58 > 0:25:01- There's no end to their abilities.
0:25:05 > 0:25:07- It's the end of the day...
0:25:07 > 0:25:10- ..and Mender and I - are in a pensive mood.
0:25:10 > 0:25:14- This is a village consisting - of six houses and one large family.
0:25:15 > 0:25:18- The women - are the mainstay of this community.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22- I've never seen anyone - work as hard as these women.
0:25:29 > 0:25:30- .
0:25:33 > 0:25:33- Subtitles
0:25:33 > 0:25:35- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:25:40 > 0:25:45- The end of another day's travelling - across the Thar Desert in India...
0:25:45 > 0:25:47- ..and I'm exhausted.
0:25:48 > 0:25:51- At least tonight - I'll be sleeping in a hotel.
0:25:51 > 0:25:55- The Lallgarh Palace in Bikaner, - former residence of the Maharajas.
0:25:56 > 0:25:58- Peace, perfect peace.
0:26:02 > 0:26:04- That was the plan, at least.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13- I was hoping - to get a good night's sleep...
0:26:13 > 0:26:16- ..before meeting the palace's owner.
0:26:16 > 0:26:18- Is it going to be spicy?
0:26:18 > 0:26:21- But nobody told me - about the wedding celebration.
0:26:30 > 0:26:33- Goodness me, - it's like a circus here tonight.
0:26:33 > 0:26:38- This isn't your usual wedding. It's - more like a carnival or a festival.
0:26:38 > 0:26:42- The bridegroom is sitting - on top of a painted elephant.
0:26:43 > 0:26:45- There are - inflatable white elephants.
0:26:46 > 0:26:48- There are balloons, - popcorn and music.
0:26:49 > 0:26:52- They dragged me into dance just now. - They're so friendly.
0:26:53 > 0:26:55- I feel - as if I'm part of these families.
0:26:55 > 0:26:58- One wedding is taking place here...
0:26:58 > 0:27:02- ..and there's another - the other side of the palace.
0:27:02 > 0:27:04- If you can't beat them, join them...
0:27:04 > 0:27:07- ..so that's exactly - what I'm going to do!
0:27:13 > 0:27:17- The following day and an appointment - I can't afford to miss.
0:27:17 > 0:27:22- The palace now functions as a hotel - and is run by the royal family.
0:27:22 > 0:27:24- I've been invited here...
0:27:24 > 0:27:27- ..to meet - Princess Rajyashree Kumari...
0:27:27 > 0:27:31- ..daughter of - the Maharaja Dr Karni Singh.
0:27:31 > 0:27:34- She insists on speaking English.
0:27:34 > 0:27:37- Essentially, - the lives of my ancestors...
0:27:38 > 0:27:42- ..is inextricably linked - with the deserts of the Thar.
0:27:42 > 0:27:44- We are children of the Thar Desert.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47- The early ancestors - must've faced hardships...
0:27:48 > 0:27:51- ..because it was always - a question of survival.
0:27:51 > 0:27:56- But they're still here and the - palace symbolizes their prosperity.
0:27:57 > 0:28:01- The Maharajas made their fortune - even in the heart of the desert.
0:28:04 > 0:28:09- The revenue collectors - used to go off on camel back...
0:28:09 > 0:28:13- ..with this big pot - which they used to lug around...
0:28:13 > 0:28:16- ..fill it up with revenue - that was due to the estate...
0:28:16 > 0:28:19- ..and this heavy lock...
0:28:20 > 0:28:24- ..was attached to the thing - and brought safely back...
0:28:24 > 0:28:27- ..to the state coffers.
0:28:27 > 0:28:32- My sympathies are with the camel who - had to carry this load on his back.
0:28:32 > 0:28:33- It can't have been very easy.
0:28:33 > 0:28:36- It can't have been very easy.- - Very strong camels!
0:28:41 > 0:28:44- For centuries, the Maharajas - tried to tame the Thar...
0:28:45 > 0:28:47- ..and make it fertile.
0:28:47 > 0:28:51- But there was one obvious setback - - a lack of water.
0:28:54 > 0:28:58- The beginning of the 20th century...
0:28:58 > 0:29:01- ..saw a period - of famine and drought.
0:29:01 > 0:29:04- Mortality rates were high.
0:29:08 > 0:29:12- The princess's great-grandfather, - Maharaja Ganga Singh...
0:29:12 > 0:29:14- ..decided to take action.
0:29:14 > 0:29:18- He devised an ambitious plan - to redirect the flow...
0:29:18 > 0:29:23- ..from the Sutlej River - and build a canal across the desert.
0:29:25 > 0:29:29- My great-grandfather was a firm - believer that the land was fertile.
0:29:29 > 0:29:31- All it lacked was the water.
0:29:32 > 0:29:35- So he set about - engineering the scheme...
0:29:35 > 0:29:39- ..of bringing a canal from - the Sutlej River into Bikaner.
0:29:42 > 0:29:46- Through his citizens' toil - over a period of two years...
0:29:46 > 0:29:48- ..the king's dream was realized.
0:29:53 > 0:29:57- In 1927, the 89-mile canal - across the Thar Desert was opened.
0:29:59 > 0:30:04- Her great-grandfather's achievement - still inspires the princess...
0:30:05 > 0:30:08- ..although taming the desert - shatters some of the romance.
0:30:08 > 0:30:10- What I am sad to see...
0:30:11 > 0:30:15- ..is that the desert - as we knew it is disappearing.
0:30:15 > 0:30:19- When we were kids, we had - virgin sand dunes around here.
0:30:19 > 0:30:25- Now, because of the forestation, - the plantation and water etc...
0:30:25 > 0:30:30- ..the actual virgin desert is - becoming less and less accessible.
0:30:34 > 0:30:38- The canal is enough to remember - Maharaja Ganga Singh by...
0:30:38 > 0:30:42- ..but he is - also party responsible...
0:30:42 > 0:30:45- ..for another wonder in this desert.
0:30:49 > 0:30:51- The Karni Mata Temple.
0:30:59 > 0:31:03- Every Maharaja - seeks blessing from heaven...
0:31:03 > 0:31:08- ..and by building this temple, Ganga - Singh honoured a powerful goddess.
0:31:10 > 0:31:15- Karni Mata was a sage - who lived some 700 years ago.
0:31:15 > 0:31:19- To her followers, - she is the incarnation of Durga...
0:31:19 > 0:31:22- ..the goddess of power and victory.
0:31:25 > 0:31:31- But the Karni Mata Temple is - renowned worldwide for one thing.
0:31:31 > 0:31:33- Rats.
0:31:36 > 0:31:39- 20,000 rats live here.
0:31:39 > 0:31:43- Many pilgrims - come here to honour them.
0:31:43 > 0:31:46- The crew expects me to join them.
0:31:53 > 0:31:57- I have to remove my shoes - before going inside the temple.
0:31:57 > 0:32:00- I've just found out - that the white rats are special.
0:32:01 > 0:32:03- They're meant to bring you luck.
0:32:03 > 0:32:06- It's lucky - if one crawls over your foot.
0:32:06 > 0:32:10- If you eat - the same food as they've eaten...
0:32:10 > 0:32:12- ..that's even luckier.
0:32:12 > 0:32:16- But I have something to confess. - I'm afraid of rats.
0:32:16 > 0:32:21- Legend has it that a child - in Karni Mata's family died.
0:32:21 > 0:32:25- She beseeched Yama, God of Death, - to bring the child back to life.
0:32:25 > 0:32:30- Yama refused, - so Karni Mata used her own powers...
0:32:30 > 0:32:33- ..and bore the child again as a rat.
0:32:33 > 0:32:38- From that moment on, all her family - would follow the same path.
0:32:38 > 0:32:41- These aren't rats - but descendants of the goddess.
0:32:42 > 0:32:45- I'm feeling quite nervous - now I'm about to go inside.
0:32:46 > 0:32:49- I have to remember - that it's a religious thing...
0:32:49 > 0:32:52- ..and it's a blessing to come here.
0:32:52 > 0:32:56- I hope my fear isn't - going to be too much to deal with.
0:32:56 > 0:32:58- Wish me luck.
0:33:02 > 0:33:06- For the faithful, visiting the - temple brings them a step closer...
0:33:06 > 0:33:09- ..to becoming - at one with the universe.
0:33:10 > 0:33:13- But that's - the furthest thing from my mind.
0:33:14 > 0:33:17- Some of them are dead.
0:33:17 > 0:33:20- Some are dead, some are lame...
0:33:20 > 0:33:22- ..some are sleeping.
0:33:22 > 0:33:24- Each one of them a rat.
0:33:27 > 0:33:30- Two of the pilgrims - take pity on me...
0:33:30 > 0:33:33- ..and share their sacred delicacies.
0:33:34 > 0:33:36- Take in your mouth...
0:33:37 > 0:33:39- And then talk?
0:33:39 > 0:33:41- And then do that?
0:33:41 > 0:33:43- Namaste.
0:33:43 > 0:33:46- I've just met - these two men sitting here.
0:33:46 > 0:33:48- He's called...
0:33:48 > 0:33:50- He's called...- - Vine.
0:33:50 > 0:33:54- He's a devout follower - and he's travelled from Jaipur.
0:33:54 > 0:33:57- He comes here as often as possible.
0:33:57 > 0:34:00- Amid is also a believer - but he's afraid of rats.
0:34:00 > 0:34:04- He comes from Bikaner - and he's afraid of rats...
0:34:04 > 0:34:07- ..so I can relate to him!
0:34:08 > 0:34:11- It means I can sit here - and try to relax in the sun.
0:34:11 > 0:34:13- Namaste.
0:34:13 > 0:34:15- Shukriya.
0:34:16 > 0:34:19- Suddenly there's a commotion.
0:34:20 > 0:34:22- THEY SPEAK HINDI
0:34:23 > 0:34:26- They've just seen a white one...
0:34:26 > 0:34:29- ..which is - meant to bring them a lot of luck.
0:34:29 > 0:34:35- According to some, the white rats - are the sons of Karni Mata herself.
0:34:36 > 0:34:40- One's crawled over my foot and - I've seen a white one. Fantastic!
0:34:44 > 0:34:48- While things are going my way, - it's time to move on.
0:34:51 > 0:34:54- Despite the rats, - I've had a good day.
0:34:54 > 0:34:56- I've overcome my fear.
0:34:57 > 0:35:01- I'm just checking if that was - a piece of paper on the floor!
0:35:01 > 0:35:04- I've managed - to overcome my fear of rats.
0:35:04 > 0:35:07- My husband Matthew - will be pleased about that.
0:35:07 > 0:35:12- There's a camel here too, carrying - stones back and forth the temple.
0:35:16 > 0:35:17- .
0:35:21 > 0:35:21- Subtitles
0:35:21 > 0:35:23- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:35:29 > 0:35:33- I'm on the final leg of my journey - across the Thar Desert.
0:35:34 > 0:35:37- I've already seen - major wonders along the way.
0:35:42 > 0:35:44- Surviving here - is a feat in itself...
0:35:44 > 0:35:49- ..and I've seen how the desert - teaches people to respect life.
0:35:49 > 0:35:51- The ancient belief in India...
0:35:52 > 0:35:55- ..is that every creature - belongs to the same family.
0:35:59 > 0:36:03- It's a belief that's - as old as the wilderness itself.
0:36:03 > 0:36:08- It's just as pertinent today - as we fear for our planet's future.
0:36:23 > 0:36:25- My next stop is a village...
0:36:25 > 0:36:30- ..where respect for life - has changed the course of nature...
0:36:30 > 0:36:33- ..and the fate - of one creature in particular.
0:36:40 > 0:36:43- This is - the ancient city of Keechan...
0:36:43 > 0:36:46- ..home to the Jaian - for more than five centuries.
0:36:47 > 0:36:50- They're a religious sect - famous for respecting all animals.
0:36:57 > 0:37:03- 40 years ago, one man and his family - started feeding the wild birds...
0:37:03 > 0:37:07- ..one of which - was the demoiselle crane.
0:37:11 > 0:37:14- Each year - the Jaian left more grain...
0:37:14 > 0:37:17- ..attracting more and more cranes.
0:37:24 > 0:37:27- Most of the Jaian have left Keechan.
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- They've gone to work in the cities.
0:37:29 > 0:37:34- They send money back to pay for all - this grain that feeds the cranes.
0:37:34 > 0:37:40- But some of the villagers - such as Gangaram continue the work.
0:37:40 > 0:37:42- I've come to lend a hand.
0:37:43 > 0:37:45- But I'm not sure he wants me here.
0:37:45 > 0:37:50- He's not saying much. I'm going - to carry on until he says something.
0:37:53 > 0:37:56- HE SPEAKS HINDI
0:37:56 > 0:37:58- I do this work - in the name of Dharma.
0:37:59 > 0:38:03- Doing divine deeds such as this - brings me good karma.
0:38:04 > 0:38:07- I suffer no illnesses.
0:38:07 > 0:38:10- I'm in good health - and my life is blessed.
0:38:17 > 0:38:20- Gangaram - is totally committed to his work...
0:38:20 > 0:38:24- ..and the outcome - of his efforts is incredible.
0:38:30 > 0:38:34- At the break of dawn, - the cranes descend.
0:38:37 > 0:38:41- The birds - are slowly approaching the grain.
0:38:41 > 0:38:44- They perched - on the sand dunes behind us...
0:38:44 > 0:38:48- ..and gradually - they're getting closer and closer.
0:38:48 > 0:38:51- They say that eventually - they simply walk in.
0:39:01 > 0:39:05- One brave bird leads the way.
0:39:08 > 0:39:10- 10,000 birds...
0:39:11 > 0:39:15- ..soon follow him - in one hungry flock.
0:39:17 > 0:39:19- It's like a scene - from a Hitchcock movie.
0:39:21 > 0:39:24- Lucky I'm not afraid of birds!
0:39:32 > 0:39:34- It's a natural phenomenon...
0:39:34 > 0:39:37- ..that you won't see - anywhere else in the world.
0:39:43 > 0:39:46- It's all thanks - to the generosity of the Jaian.
0:39:51 > 0:39:55- The way in which - they preserve these strange birds...
0:39:55 > 0:39:57- ..is acknowledged worldwide.
0:39:57 > 0:40:01- But there's something - about the story which bothers me.
0:40:08 > 0:40:10- This is fantastic to see...
0:40:10 > 0:40:14- ..but I can't help thinking - that the situation is ironic.
0:40:14 > 0:40:18- The feeding of the birds is reliant - on the kindness of the Jaian.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22- But bird numbers - are rising 10-15% each year.
0:40:22 > 0:40:25- There has been - a mass influx of birds...
0:40:25 > 0:40:27- ..but an emigration of Jaian.
0:40:27 > 0:40:29- Only a few of them remain.
0:40:29 > 0:40:33- Is it right that - they're paying for the birdseed...
0:40:33 > 0:40:36- ..while there are - children nearby in need?
0:40:36 > 0:40:38- I'm not sure.
0:40:43 > 0:40:46- A refuge in the desert.
0:40:46 > 0:40:51- If the birds deserve that, then - surely the Thar's children do too?
0:40:58 > 0:41:01- The following day, - my final day looms.
0:41:01 > 0:41:03- It's going to be a busy day.
0:41:03 > 0:41:07- It's the best time of year for the - Thar's farmers to make big money.
0:41:10 > 0:41:14- This is - the famous Nagaur Cattle Fair.
0:41:14 > 0:41:19- It seems that everyone else in - the province has arrived before me.
0:41:21 > 0:41:24- Life can be very hard - in the Thar Desert.
0:41:24 > 0:41:27- It's important - people come together to trade.
0:41:27 > 0:41:31- Today there are more than - 70,000 different animals here.
0:41:31 > 0:41:34- Camels, cattle and oxen.
0:41:34 > 0:41:36- It's a bit like Carmarthen mart!
0:41:40 > 0:41:44- As I wander around, I realize - it's much more than a mart.
0:41:48 > 0:41:52- It's probably closer - to the Thar's Royal Show...
0:41:53 > 0:41:56- ..with elements - of the Eisteddfod thrown in.
0:42:00 > 0:42:04- All kinds of things are sold here, - not just animals.
0:42:04 > 0:42:06- Look at the size of these woks!
0:42:06 > 0:42:09- They're big enough - to feed the 5,000.
0:42:14 > 0:42:17- Farmers - from all over India come here.
0:42:18 > 0:42:23- With money burning a hole in their - pocket, there's plenty of choice.
0:42:28 > 0:42:30- Having travelled from the Punjab...
0:42:31 > 0:42:34- ..Janghir Singh - is an experienced trader.
0:42:34 > 0:42:37- He claims - his journey is never in vain.
0:42:40 > 0:42:45- Trading here is a pleasure. We can - socialize as well as make money.
0:42:46 > 0:42:49- I can buy a small calf - for 3,000 rupee and sell it...
0:42:49 > 0:42:51- ..for 10,000 in a year's time.
0:42:52 > 0:42:56- When all the calves have grown, - I'll come back to buy more.
0:42:58 > 0:43:03- He's bound to receive - a warm welcome when he gets home.
0:43:03 > 0:43:07- Mr Singh here is leaving - the Nagaur fair a very happy man.
0:43:08 > 0:43:12- He has at least four wagons - full of animals.
0:43:12 > 0:43:17- He'll get home and the whole family - will think he's a great hero.
0:43:17 > 0:43:20- Well done, Mr Singh. Namaste.
0:43:24 > 0:43:26- Yes.
0:43:29 > 0:43:31- He leaves a satisfied customer.
0:43:35 > 0:43:39- But there are those who still - haven't made their fortune.
0:43:43 > 0:43:49- For three days, this farmer has been - trying to sell his special animals.
0:43:49 > 0:43:51- His racing bulls.
0:43:52 > 0:43:57- Hari Ram has travelled a great - distance on foot to come here.
0:43:57 > 0:44:00- He's walked - for four hours with these bulls.
0:44:00 > 0:44:04- They're very special, - so why does he want to sell them?
0:44:04 > 0:44:06- A shortage of water is to blame.
0:44:07 > 0:44:12- Without water, crops fail to thrive, - so there's little food for animals.
0:44:12 > 0:44:14- Hari is worried about their future.
0:44:15 > 0:44:19- He must get a good price so that he - can return to his family with money.
0:44:19 > 0:44:23- Suddenly - there's a potential offer for Hari.
0:44:23 > 0:44:28- A man wants to buy a beast to race - in tandem with one of his own bulls.
0:44:28 > 0:44:31- If both bulls - manage to pull together.
0:44:43 > 0:44:45- The test is over...
0:44:46 > 0:44:48- ..and the bartering begins.
0:44:52 > 0:44:57- But unfortunately, the partnership - doesn't please the buyer.
0:44:57 > 0:45:01- Hari must find a way to sustain - his bulls for another year...
0:45:01 > 0:45:03- ..despite the drought.
0:45:11 > 0:45:14- It's the end of the day - and the end of trading.
0:45:14 > 0:45:17- Now it's show time.
0:45:18 > 0:45:20- RHYTHMIC DRUMBEAT
0:45:25 > 0:45:28- These are - the dancers of the Kalbelia...
0:45:28 > 0:45:31- ..a native tribe - known for catching snakes.
0:45:31 > 0:45:35- There's a snake-like quality - to their dancing too.
0:45:36 > 0:45:39- There's no chance of me - joining in their antics!
0:45:47 > 0:45:51- A joyous occasion to mark - my final night in the desert.
0:45:52 > 0:45:55- The Thar's life and colour - at its best.
0:46:01 > 0:46:04- But there's - one last surprise waiting for me.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08- I'm nearing - the end of my journey in the Thar...
0:46:09 > 0:46:12- ..and - I'll never forget my time here.
0:46:12 > 0:46:17- What better way to view the - landscape than in a hot-air balloon?
0:46:25 > 0:46:29- This journey has - completely altered my perspective.
0:46:29 > 0:46:32- It's made me understand - the meaning of a desert.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37- It's a vibrant place...
0:46:37 > 0:46:40- ..full of surprises.
0:46:40 > 0:46:43- A canal through the sand dunes.
0:46:43 > 0:46:47- Wild birds - flocking to man's generosity.
0:46:48 > 0:46:51- Reverence for rats.
0:46:56 > 0:47:01- But as the population thrives, - the pressure on the Thar mounts.
0:47:06 > 0:47:11- Its treasures are at stake and - its native animals are under threat.
0:47:15 > 0:47:19- But even when life - is at its hardest...
0:47:19 > 0:47:23- ..the Thar's heart beats loudly.
0:47:28 > 0:47:33- We've just grounded the balloon - and hundreds are here to greet us...
0:47:33 > 0:47:35- ..and find out what's going on.
0:47:36 > 0:47:38- I've had a wonderful time in India.
0:47:38 > 0:47:41- My experiences - have been unforgettable.
0:47:41 > 0:47:46- The people are full of love - and passion for their homeland.
0:47:46 > 0:47:50- They've succeeded - in working the land...
0:47:50 > 0:47:54- ..and created a special - livelihood for themselves.
0:47:54 > 0:47:57- I'll be very sad to leave...
0:47:57 > 0:48:01- ..but I'm looking forward - to sharing these photographs.
0:48:30 > 0:48:32- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:32 > 0:48:33- .