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0:00:02 > 0:00:05- The desert - arid, desolate...
0:00:06 > 0:00:08- ..merciless.
0:00:09 > 0:00:12- A barren landscape - stretching for miles on end.
0:00:18 > 0:00:23- But in these foreign places, - nature flourishes...
0:00:23 > 0:00:25- ..and people have settled.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- With spirit and assiduity, - they have learnt to survive...
0:00:33 > 0:00:36- ..and forged a unique way of life.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43- But today, it is under pressure - from the modern world.
0:00:43 > 0:00:47- Trade and industry - vie for the desert's resources.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51- Natives have had to adapt - quicker than ever before.
0:00:55 > 0:00:59- This is the story - of inventive and tenacious people...
0:01:00 > 0:01:03- ..preserving their habitat - and fighting for the right...
0:01:04 > 0:01:08- ..to live in the most - challenging places on earth.
0:01:24 > 0:01:27- The Gobi Desert - is at a turning point in its - history-
0:01:27 > 0:01:32- I'm here just in time - to witness that fateful hour...
0:01:32 > 0:01:34- ..when everything changes.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38- This is Asia's largest desert.
0:01:38 > 0:01:40- If square miles - mean anything to you...
0:01:41 > 0:01:44- ..the Gobi Desert - measures more than a million.
0:01:48 > 0:01:51- It's a place of two extremes - - scorching summers...
0:01:52 > 0:01:54- ..and freezing winters.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58- Gobi literally means - a place without water...
0:01:58 > 0:02:02- ..which is what you'd expect - from a desert, naturally.
0:02:02 > 0:02:07- The wind and the cold make this - desert one of the world's harshest.
0:02:07 > 0:02:12- During winter, temperatures - dip to 40 degrees below freezing.
0:02:12 > 0:02:14- I've come here...
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- ..to discover how people survive - in this extraordinary place.
0:02:21 > 0:02:23- This is the secret of the Gobi.
0:02:24 > 0:02:28- To be independent, - you have to depend on something.
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- The children of the Gobi - fully understand the paradox.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- Unlike any other place on earth, - people and animals...
0:02:40 > 0:02:43- ..have learnt - to depend on one another.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46- But that age-old relationship - is under strain.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52- Change is afoot - and no-one is certain of the future.
0:02:55 > 0:02:59- Some will prosper - while others will falter.
0:03:02 > 0:03:05- But to where does the new path lead?
0:03:06 > 0:03:08- For better or worse...
0:03:08 > 0:03:12- ..this is the Gobi that we're - never likely to see again.
0:03:18 > 0:03:22- Reaching the depths of the Gobi - is a feat in itself.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25- From Ulaanbaatar, - the capital of Mongolia...
0:03:25 > 0:03:30- ..I must fly to Dalanzadgad before - driving to the middle of nowhere.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34- It's easier said than done.
0:03:38 > 0:03:41- It's taken - four full days to reach here...
0:03:41 > 0:03:46- ..a day and a half of which - was spent at Ulaanbaatar airport.
0:03:46 > 0:03:51- Since it was snowing so heavily - in the Gobi, we were unable to land.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54- It's around - minus 11 or 12 degrees Celsius.
0:03:55 > 0:03:58- It takes two hours - to reach the heart of the desert.
0:03:58 > 0:04:03- I have no idea what awaits us. - My adventure is about to begin.
0:04:07 > 0:04:09- It's hard to believe...
0:04:09 > 0:04:14- ..that agriculture has sustained - the Gobi from the very beginning...
0:04:14 > 0:04:16- ..but it's the truth.
0:04:17 > 0:04:19- The Gobi's farmers are nomads.
0:04:20 > 0:04:22- I'm on my way to meet a family...
0:04:22 > 0:04:27- ..who, like their ancestors - before them, sustain themselves...
0:04:27 > 0:04:31- ..by accompanying their animals - to new grazing pasture.
0:04:35 > 0:04:40- It's early morning and eventually - I reach the family and its flock.
0:04:40 > 0:04:43- NATIVE SINGING
0:04:53 > 0:04:55- Aidee and his wife, Gamma...
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- ..have invited me - to live with them for a few days...
0:04:59 > 0:05:04- ..in their family's tent - called a ger.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- No matter how cold it is outside, - the welcome inside the ger...
0:05:09 > 0:05:11- ..is as warm as the tea.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15- Argh, wow, that's hot!
0:05:15 > 0:05:18- I'm not too sure about it either.
0:05:18 > 0:05:20- I don't know what's in it.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23- Salt and camel's milk, I think.
0:05:26 > 0:05:28- Hot.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32- And those?
0:05:33 > 0:05:35- Thank you very much.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39- I can't say the local delicacies - are to my liking either!
0:05:48 > 0:05:52- Each working day - begins with an early start.
0:05:52 > 0:05:56- Having been warned about - the freezing temperatures...
0:05:56 > 0:05:59- ..I thought - I'd dressed appropriately.
0:05:59 > 0:06:01- But Gamma has other ideas.
0:06:05 > 0:06:07- That's tight!
0:06:09 > 0:06:11- The first task is to fetch milk.
0:06:12 > 0:06:16- I've never milked anything before.
0:06:16 > 0:06:20- I didn't think the first thing - I'd milk would be a camel!
0:06:20 > 0:06:23- Right, OK, let me try.
0:06:24 > 0:06:26- Oh, they're down here. - I'll try this one.
0:06:27 > 0:06:30- At least that's one way - of warming up the hands!
0:06:33 > 0:06:35- It's very, very warm.
0:06:36 > 0:06:39- I'm starting to get a rhythm going.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- Ooh!
0:06:47 > 0:06:52- Camels are the most valuable animals - but they also keep sheep and goats.
0:06:55 > 0:07:00- Aidee shows me how to round up the - sheep in a language they understand.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- Hoggun! - Hoggun, hoggun, hoggun, hoggun.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07- Hoggun! Hoggun!
0:07:09 > 0:07:10- Hoggun!
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- They tell me it's hoggun, - not hogan (girl)!
0:07:13 > 0:07:16- Hoggun. Yes?
0:07:16 > 0:07:19- She's laughing at me. Hoggun!
0:07:20 > 0:07:24- From the youngest to the eldest, - they each have a role to play.
0:07:24 > 0:07:29- Although life is hard, Aidee insists - it's far from a poor existence.
0:07:29 > 0:07:31- HE SPEAKS MONGOLIAN
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- Farmers like me - are never short of money.
0:07:37 > 0:07:40- If I need money today, - for instance...
0:07:41 > 0:07:44- ..I could - sell an animal or a camel.
0:07:44 > 0:07:48- But without the animals, - life here would be impossible.
0:07:56 > 0:07:58- What strikes me the most...
0:07:58 > 0:08:02- ..is the way - people dote on their animals.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- It can be seen and heard everywhere.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07- WOMAN SINGS
0:08:12 > 0:08:16- This morning - this sheep gave birth to two lambs.
0:08:18 > 0:08:22- According to Gamma, singing - is the best way to soothe the pain.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30- It's instinctive for the Nomads - and an eye opener for me.
0:08:40 > 0:08:42- They love their animals so much...
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- ..that they truly believe - they have feelings too.
0:08:46 > 0:08:51- If they believe they're in danger - or sense that they're unhappy...
0:08:51 > 0:08:56- ..they start singing traditional - Mongolian folk songs from the heart.
0:08:56 > 0:08:58- I'm not just saying this...
0:08:59 > 0:09:04- ..but this sheep - appears to have completely relaxed.
0:09:07 > 0:09:12- The family's biggest concern - is the health of their camels.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- As well as providing milk...
0:09:15 > 0:09:20- ..the camel is their main mode - of transport across the desert.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22- Come on! He doesn't want to move.
0:09:23 > 0:09:25- When it wants to move, that is!
0:09:25 > 0:09:26- Choo!
0:09:27 > 0:09:29- Choo! Choo!
0:09:31 > 0:09:34- Today Aidee and I - set out on a long journey.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- We're taking the camels to the well.
0:09:47 > 0:09:52- Although no other animal - is more at home in the desert...
0:09:52 > 0:09:55- ..even the camel needs to drink.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58- During mid-winter, - they must burrow for water.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03- In this freezing desert...
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- ..even the simplest task - requires physical exertion.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18- But Aidee claims - the Gobi's climate is changing...
0:10:18 > 0:10:21- ..and wells - are becoming even more scarce.
0:10:21 > 0:10:26- These days he must travel further - afield to quench his camels' thirst.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29- This one intake of water - is enough...
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- ..to sustain the flock - for at least another week.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36- This is the only well in the area...
0:10:37 > 0:10:40- ..and it's shared - by many neighbouring families.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- It goes to show - that even in extreme temperatures...
0:10:44 > 0:10:46- ..they go to great lengths...
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- ..to provide water - for the camels and their families.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59- It's been a good day - for Aidee, me and the camel.
0:11:02 > 0:11:04- WOMAN SINGS IN MONGOLIAN
0:11:05 > 0:11:08- But back at the ger, - some sad news awaits us.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- Gamma is trying to console - one of the mother camels.
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- Watching this touching scene - has left me quite emotional.
0:11:33 > 0:11:35- It's wonderful.
0:11:36 > 0:11:40- This camel lost a baby this morning - and she's been singing.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43- I didn't expect to react this way.
0:11:43 > 0:11:47- That was so moving.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55- Yes, the Gobi is already beginning - to leave its mark on me.
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0:12:01 > 0:12:01- Subtitles
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:05 > 0:12:08- I'm staying in a ger - in the heart of the Gobi.
0:12:09 > 0:12:12- It's a traditional tent - and home to Aidee and his family.
0:12:12 > 0:12:14- HE SINGS IN MONGOLIAN
0:12:18 > 0:12:22- Tonight, they perform the ritual - of welcoming the guest...
0:12:22 > 0:12:27- ..by singing and sharing a bowl - of vodka made from camel's milk.
0:12:35 > 0:12:36- Wonderful. Thank you.
0:12:36 > 0:12:41- It's appropriate to respond - with some of our own culture.
0:12:42 > 0:12:44- Thank you very much.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- I'll take a swig before singing.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49- # So the old maid keeps on trying
0:12:50 > 0:12:52- # Fol-de-rol-de-rol-rol, - fol-de-rol-de-roh
0:12:52 > 0:12:54- # All dolled up in silk... #
0:12:54 > 0:12:57- We may not - share a common language...
0:12:57 > 0:13:00- ..but singing - seems to bridge the gap.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03- # Fol-de-rol-rol-de, rol-de-roh... #
0:13:03 > 0:13:06- I already feel like - one of the family.
0:13:06 > 0:13:12- # Fol-de-rol-lol, - fol-de-rol-de-roh # Yoy!
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- That was down to the vodka!
0:13:19 > 0:13:22- The entertainment - isn't all old-fashioned.
0:13:23 > 0:13:27- But while everybody cosily gathers - in front of the set...
0:13:27 > 0:13:31- ..one member of the family - is watching far from home.
0:13:31 > 0:13:36- More than 1,400km away, in the - farthest corner of the desert...
0:13:37 > 0:13:41- ..is Aidee's brother, Biamba, - who lives a very different life.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48- I share the tent with a man - who works different shifts.
0:13:49 > 0:13:51- Only the two of us live here.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- Like many young men, Biamba - has turned his back on farming...
0:14:04 > 0:14:08- ..in order to work - in one of the new mines...
0:14:08 > 0:14:11- ..hastily being built - across Mongolia.
0:14:14 > 0:14:18- This is the largest of them all - - the Oyu Tolgoi.
0:14:19 > 0:14:23- It is located 80km north - of Mongolia's border with China.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- The Rio Tinto Group - mines here for gold and copper.
0:14:31 > 0:14:36- It is also proving very lucrative - for the Mongolian government.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45- Biamba is proud - to be part of the venture.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- Following my father's death, - I came to live here.
0:14:54 > 0:14:59- By working here, I'm contributing - to the development of Mongolia....
0:14:59 > 0:15:01- ..and the region in general.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03- I'm very proud of that.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- Over the next decade, - mining is likely...
0:15:12 > 0:15:14- ..to double Mongolia's economy.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- Today, Biamba is one of a team - drilling a new shaft...
0:15:22 > 0:15:24- ..to mine for minerals.
0:15:24 > 0:15:28- The enterprise and the technology - at work here is astounding.
0:15:31 > 0:15:37- Once it is completed, this tunnel - will extend 1.5km underground.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- Biamba and his team - lead the construction.
0:15:43 > 0:15:45- We learn as we go along.
0:15:46 > 0:15:50- Additional holes will soon be needed - and we will mine them.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06- It's a new way of life for Biamba.
0:16:06 > 0:16:10- He earns more than 1,000 a month...
0:16:10 > 0:16:14- ..which is 15 times more - than this brother as a farmer.
0:16:17 > 0:16:22- He certainly won't be dining - on goat's meat and camel's milk.
0:16:26 > 0:16:29- His family is no longer - his be-all and end-all.
0:16:29 > 0:16:32- The friends - who he shares gossip with...
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- ..hail from - different parts of Mongolia.
0:16:40 > 0:16:43- This entertainment - is more contemporary...
0:16:43 > 0:16:45- ..than the singing at home.
0:16:47 > 0:16:50- The younger generation - is breaking new ground.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59- I don't think you're ugly, camel.
0:16:59 > 0:17:02- After several nights - spent in the remote tent...
0:17:03 > 0:17:05- ..it's time for me to move on.
0:17:06 > 0:17:12- Well, my time with Aidee, - Gamma and their family is over.
0:17:12 > 0:17:16- These memories will certainly - stay with me for a long time.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- These people battle the elements - on a daily basis...
0:17:20 > 0:17:25- ..and yet, they offer the warmest - welcome on the face of the earth.
0:17:28 > 0:17:32- On leaving, the grandmother - insists on performing a ritual...
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- ..to bring me luck - for the rest of my journey.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39- She blesses the car with, - guess what, camel's milk!
0:17:43 > 0:17:45- Spending time with this family...
0:17:45 > 0:17:49- ..has provided a glimpse - of a unique way of life.
0:17:49 > 0:17:52- As I say my goodbyes...
0:17:53 > 0:17:57- ..I find myself wondering - how long will it last?
0:17:58 > 0:18:01- Will Aidee shortly be joining - his brother in the mines...
0:18:02 > 0:18:04- ..that are transforming the Gobi?
0:18:16 > 0:18:20- But not everybody who mines - is employed by the major companies.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26- Some go about it - without the corporations' help...
0:18:26 > 0:18:28- ..or the government's permission.
0:18:29 > 0:18:31- We've just embarked on a journey...
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- ..that's going to take - two or three days.
0:18:34 > 0:18:39- We're trying to track down - illegal gold miners.
0:18:39 > 0:18:41- Many factors are against us.
0:18:41 > 0:18:44- The snow, for one, and secondly...
0:18:44 > 0:18:49- ..since they're illegal, they don't - possess the relevant licences...
0:18:49 > 0:18:53- ..which means they might be - reluctant to talk to us.
0:19:00 > 0:19:03- The landscape - is so desolate and remote...
0:19:03 > 0:19:08- ..that searching for miners is like - looking for a needle in a haystack.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14- There's nothing for it - but to carry on...
0:19:15 > 0:19:17- ..and put my faith - in our driver, Mongol.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- I honestly can't believe - what our driver's doing.
0:19:25 > 0:19:28- He's looking over - the sides of cliffs...
0:19:29 > 0:19:33- ..where no sane man...
0:19:33 > 0:19:36- ..would dare venture...
0:19:36 > 0:19:41- ..but Mongol here - is willing to do whatever it takes.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44- As you can see.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51- Suddenly, but inevitably, - we've ground to a halt.
0:19:51 > 0:19:53- Go. One, two, three.
0:19:53 > 0:19:54- No way.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00- Now I'm cold, tired - and I'm starting to lose hope...
0:20:01 > 0:20:03- ..of encountering any miner.
0:20:04 > 0:20:08- Thank goodness for the other truck - that is accompanying us.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- Around the next corner, - believe it or not, there's a clue.
0:20:24 > 0:20:29- I've heard about a family who can - direct me to a man called Otgon...
0:20:29 > 0:20:31- ..who's mining in the mountains.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35- Otgon's wife is called Sunne.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- They are shepherds, but Otgon - frequently leaves home...
0:20:39 > 0:20:42- ..in a desperate effort - to raise money...
0:20:42 > 0:20:46- ..to send his daughter for - specialist treatment overseas.
0:20:47 > 0:20:50- On the other side of the summit...
0:20:50 > 0:20:52- ..he comes into view.
0:20:53 > 0:20:58- Otgon and two friends are mining - at the sites of former goldmines.
0:21:02 > 0:21:06- With primitive equipment, they dig - and mine deep underground...
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- ..in search of the yellow treasure.
0:21:14 > 0:21:16- It's incredibly dangerous work.
0:21:16 > 0:21:20- The men must hurry before - they are caught by the police.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23- There is no time - to strengthen the hole.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26- It could collapse - and bury them alive.
0:21:27 > 0:21:30- They won't allow me - to go near the site.
0:21:31 > 0:21:35- Otgon is driven by the reason - he must work like this.
0:21:37 > 0:21:41- My daughter - suffers from a brain illness.
0:21:41 > 0:21:45- I'm trying to raise money to - send her to Thailand for treatment.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48- That's why I'm mining for gold.
0:21:53 > 0:21:55- Elbow grease is the only thing...
0:21:55 > 0:21:58- ..moving the earth - and keeping them warm.
0:21:58 > 0:22:03- Petrol is scarce. What they have - is used to run the sieving device.
0:22:04 > 0:22:09- Discovering that one piece of gold - would make it all worthwhile.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12- They have been lucky in the past.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- This chunk is worth hundreds - of dollars on the black market.
0:22:20 > 0:22:24- There's no certainty we'll find - something like this every time.
0:22:24 > 0:22:28- We might mine deep underground - and find nothing.
0:22:28 > 0:22:32- But today, - no matter how deep they've mined...
0:22:33 > 0:22:35- ..they have little to show.
0:22:35 > 0:22:39- One tiny smidgeon, - worth one dollar at the most.
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- Nobody makes their fortune here.
0:22:48 > 0:22:51- Despite her father's efforts...
0:22:51 > 0:22:56- ..Otgon is a long way from raising - funds for his daughter's treatment.
0:22:58 > 0:23:03- He's come to realize each year - that the work is getting harder.
0:23:06 > 0:23:09- Since the year 2000, - the winters have been harsh.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13- A drought in summer - and heavy snow in winter.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15- It's been very difficult lately.
0:23:17 > 0:23:21- Otgon has witnessed major change...
0:23:21 > 0:23:24- ..right across the Gobi Desert.
0:23:24 > 0:23:28- These days, the seasons - that were once so exceptional...
0:23:28 > 0:23:31- ..are more unstable - than ever before.
0:23:33 > 0:23:38- Before leaving the mountains, - the other driver, Tuman...
0:23:38 > 0:23:43- ..is taking me somewhere where - I can witness the change first-hand.
0:23:44 > 0:23:46- OK, I'll hold on.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51- In summer, - water flows through this valley...
0:23:52 > 0:23:55- ..but spring is late this year, - making it possible to walk.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59- Well, almost possible!
0:23:59 > 0:24:02- OK, OK.
0:24:05 > 0:24:08- I'm walking upstream at the moment.
0:24:08 > 0:24:12- I'm falling upstream - at the moment!
0:24:12 > 0:24:14- On the water, yes? Here?
0:24:15 > 0:24:16- OK? Here?
0:24:18 > 0:24:22- According to Tuman, who knows - everything about this area...
0:24:23 > 0:24:27- ..there is at least three metres - of ice, so I'm quite safe.
0:24:27 > 0:24:30- We're on our way - to see a frozen waterfall...
0:24:31 > 0:24:33- ..if I ever get there.
0:24:33 > 0:24:35- Ready? Thank you.
0:24:35 > 0:24:38- Ohh! Tuman!
0:24:40 > 0:24:45- Oh, goodness me! - I'm better off crawling.
0:24:45 > 0:24:47- Thank you.
0:24:47 > 0:24:49- I'm going to crawl.
0:24:50 > 0:24:53- Yes, this is the dignified world - of the TV presenter!
0:25:01 > 0:25:03- Finally, the effort bears fruit.
0:25:06 > 0:25:10- Oh, wow, that's incredible.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13- It was worth the effort - to get up here.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16- It's metres thick...
0:25:16 > 0:25:20- ..and there's - an incredible greenish hue to it.
0:25:20 > 0:25:23- Let me see - if I can get a little closer.
0:25:28 > 0:25:32- The late arrival of spring - is a sure sign of climate change.
0:25:35 > 0:25:38- But even - in the depths of the Gobi...
0:25:39 > 0:25:41- ..the seasons do eventually change.
0:25:41 > 0:25:45- I'm starting to hear - the sound of water...
0:25:45 > 0:25:50- ..which means things are beginning - to thaw, so we'd better go, Tuman.
0:25:54 > 0:25:58- Of course, the journey - is much easier on the way down.
0:26:03 > 0:26:04- .
0:26:06 > 0:26:06- Subtitles
0:26:06 > 0:26:08- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:26:11 > 0:26:16- I'm not sure what I expected from - venturing to the heart of the Gobi.
0:26:16 > 0:26:20- But the place - has completely captivated me.
0:26:20 > 0:26:22- It's also surprised me.
0:26:24 > 0:26:28- There is summer and winter - in this wilderness.
0:26:28 > 0:26:32- When the seasons change, - it's a sight to behold.
0:26:33 > 0:26:38- But these days, seasons change - quicker than ever before.
0:26:38 > 0:26:41- Over the past 60 years...
0:26:41 > 0:26:46- ..the desert's temperature has risen - more than two degrees Celsius.
0:26:47 > 0:26:51- The Gobi's wildlife is - struggling to survive the change.
0:26:51 > 0:26:55- It is especially true - of one special creature...
0:26:55 > 0:26:59- ..and any visitor to the Gobi - must go in search of it.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05- Among these craggy rocks...
0:27:05 > 0:27:08- ..is a creature - that has adapted perfectly...
0:27:08 > 0:27:10- ..to life in a frozen desert.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16- The snow leopard.
0:27:16 > 0:27:21- Years ago, this remarkable creature - thrived in the Gobi.
0:27:21 > 0:27:26- These days, the snow leopard's - habitat has changed so much...
0:27:26 > 0:27:29- ..and owing to the extent - it is being hunted...
0:27:30 > 0:27:32- ..only 1,000 of the species remain.
0:27:33 > 0:27:37- Seeing a snow leopard in the wild - is something of a rarity.
0:27:37 > 0:27:40- But one man - knows exactly where to look.
0:27:45 > 0:27:48- Sunbee Tumursukh is a researcher.
0:27:49 > 0:27:54- Some years ago, whilst working on - a tagging system for the animals...
0:27:54 > 0:27:59- ..Sunbee had the privilege - of touching a wild snow leopard.
0:28:02 > 0:28:04- I was very excited.
0:28:04 > 0:28:09- It's a dignified creature - with a long tail and body.
0:28:09 > 0:28:15- I was pleased I had the opportunity - to touch the snow leopard.
0:28:20 > 0:28:24- Sunbee's work focuses on tracking - the leopard in the mountains.
0:28:27 > 0:28:31- Usually, only an expert - would know where to look...
0:28:32 > 0:28:35- ..but today the snow - provides us with a clue.
0:28:37 > 0:28:41- Look what we've found. - Snow leopard footprints.
0:28:41 > 0:28:44- Better than that, - they look very fresh...
0:28:45 > 0:28:47- ..which means it's in the vicinity.
0:28:47 > 0:28:50- It might even be looking at me now!
0:28:51 > 0:28:53- I feel like Iolo Williams!
0:28:56 > 0:29:01- The next step is to set up a - hidden camera to take photographs...
0:29:01 > 0:29:04- ..of any snow leopard - that passes by.
0:29:06 > 0:29:09- Sunbee has explained - that this portion of land...
0:29:09 > 0:29:13- ..shows that a leopard - has been here during the past week.
0:29:14 > 0:29:18- It has scratched the surface of - the rock and marked its territory.
0:29:18 > 0:29:23- This is the perfect spot - in which to set up the camera.
0:29:24 > 0:29:29- Over the years, many leopards have - appeared in Sunbee's photo album.
0:29:33 > 0:29:36- We've been - concealing cameras since 2008.
0:29:36 > 0:29:42- Over a period of a year, we take an - average of around 6,000 photographs.
0:29:46 > 0:29:48- The kit must first be tested.
0:29:55 > 0:29:58- Sunbee will be able - to study the images...
0:29:59 > 0:30:03- ..the camera has captured - and add that information...
0:30:03 > 0:30:08- ..to a national database of animals - that are tracked across the Gobi.
0:30:10 > 0:30:14- Studying the animals - is very important.
0:30:14 > 0:30:19- By fitting them with collars, you - can locate the animals' whereabouts.
0:30:19 > 0:30:23- You can also establish their - territories and how far they wander.
0:30:23 > 0:30:25- Of all the snow leopards...
0:30:26 > 0:30:29- ..my favourite is Khasha.
0:30:31 > 0:30:34- She has two young cubs.
0:30:37 > 0:30:42- When the camera takes their - photograph, it's always interesting.
0:30:50 > 0:30:55- Another machine crucial to - Sunbee's research is his motorbike.
0:30:57 > 0:31:00- I'm following him...
0:31:00 > 0:31:04- ..to observe another - important facet of his job.
0:31:05 > 0:31:07- Today Sunbee meets a family...
0:31:07 > 0:31:11- ..that farms goats - on the barren slopes of the Gobi.
0:31:12 > 0:31:15- Without the support - of local farmers...
0:31:16 > 0:31:20- ..it'd be difficult for Sunbee to - protect the leopard in its habitat.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23- Today, the family is concerned.
0:31:23 > 0:31:28- It's rumoured that a predatory - snow leopard is on the prowl nearby.
0:31:31 > 0:31:35- As the climate gets warmer, - the desert's ecosystem is changing.
0:31:35 > 0:31:40- The snow leopard has to wander much - further afield in search of food.
0:31:44 > 0:31:46- Have you seen one recently?
0:31:50 > 0:31:53- About a week ago, in the west...
0:31:53 > 0:31:56- ..people saw the footprints - of a leopard in the snow.
0:32:00 > 0:32:03- Suddenly, - there is a commotion outside.
0:32:05 > 0:32:07- The goats run for shelter.
0:32:12 > 0:32:14- Has a snow leopard made its move?
0:32:20 > 0:32:23- Sunbee heads towards the commotion.
0:32:23 > 0:32:26- We try to catch him up in the truck.
0:32:28 > 0:32:32- But it is the farmer's daughter - who knows the landscape best.
0:32:33 > 0:32:36- She discovers - the bloody traces of the attack.
0:32:39 > 0:32:44- She's shouting at Sunbee because - he doesn't know the goat is here.
0:32:44 > 0:32:47- Sunbee is on top of - the opposite mountain.
0:32:51 > 0:32:54- This is the sad outcome.
0:33:04 > 0:33:09- Jahdonna has just explained - that the goat was pregnant...
0:33:09 > 0:33:13- ..which means - more of a loss for the family.
0:33:16 > 0:33:21- But Sunbee doesn't think - the snow leopard was responsible.
0:33:21 > 0:33:25- Whatever has killed this goat...
0:33:25 > 0:33:27- ..didn't eat it straightaway.
0:33:28 > 0:33:32- It suggests the actions of a wolf - rather than a snow leopard.
0:33:34 > 0:33:36- The grandfather agrees.
0:33:39 > 0:33:42- A wolf kills about 20...
0:33:42 > 0:33:44- ..or even 30 animals at a time.
0:33:44 > 0:33:48- But the snow leopard - only kills enough to eat.
0:33:52 > 0:33:54- The death is also a costly loss.
0:33:57 > 0:33:59- They can't even sell - the goat's meat...
0:34:00 > 0:34:03- ..since the wolf's saliva - has poisoned it.
0:34:05 > 0:34:09- The only thing left to do is - to remove the wool in order to sell.
0:34:15 > 0:34:18- I can't tell you - how much this stinks.
0:34:28 > 0:34:30- So if it's not the leopard...
0:34:30 > 0:34:34- ..that's mainly responsible - for attacking farm animals...
0:34:34 > 0:34:37- ..why are people - always after its blood?
0:34:39 > 0:34:43- The answer isn't in the mountains - where these creatures live...
0:34:44 > 0:34:47- ..but in one of - the grandest restaurants...
0:34:47 > 0:34:50- ..in the principal town, - Dalanzadgad.
0:34:52 > 0:34:55- Hunters - command a fortune for its fur.
0:34:56 > 0:34:59- This is - how far too many of them end up.
0:35:00 > 0:35:03- The spoils of rich people - who should know better.
0:35:05 > 0:35:09- There are around 100 snow leopards - on the ceiling alone.
0:35:10 > 0:35:12- It's a restaurant within a ger.
0:35:12 > 0:35:17- These have all been prevented - from being smuggled out of Mongolia.
0:35:17 > 0:35:20- It's horrific to see.
0:35:22 > 0:35:25- Better they're here - than overseas, perhaps.
0:35:25 > 0:35:28- But either way, - things don't bode well.
0:35:30 > 0:35:33- Am I witnessing the final demise...
0:35:33 > 0:35:37- ..of the desert's - most magnificent creature?
0:35:38 > 0:35:39- .
0:35:41 > 0:35:41- Subtitles
0:35:41 > 0:35:43- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:35:49 > 0:35:54- For centuries, the people of - the Gobi Desert have been Buddhists.
0:35:56 > 0:36:00- Tsend Auysh is a devout follower - of the Buddhist religion.
0:36:05 > 0:36:09- Today, I'm in Dalanzadgad, - the largest town in the south...
0:36:09 > 0:36:13- ..to meet Tsend and his family - on one of the most important days...
0:36:13 > 0:36:16- ..in the Buddhist calendar.
0:36:17 > 0:36:21- By now, I know the welcome - will be the same inside every ger.
0:36:21 > 0:36:25- It's nice and warm here. - Thank you for the invitation. Hello.
0:36:25 > 0:36:27- Hello, Tsend. Are you alright?
0:36:28 > 0:36:31- After weeks of practice...
0:36:31 > 0:36:33- ..I've become accustomed.
0:36:33 > 0:36:35- Camel tea with salt again.
0:36:38 > 0:36:41- There is - a special atmosphere in this ger.
0:36:41 > 0:36:45- It's an atmosphere which lends - itself to Tsend Auysh's vocation.
0:36:49 > 0:36:52- I decided to become a monk - to better myself.
0:36:53 > 0:36:56- And to help the poor - and those who are suffering.
0:37:00 > 0:37:05- Strangely enough, Tsend Auysh's - life was mapped out for him...
0:37:06 > 0:37:08- ..the minute he was born.
0:37:09 > 0:37:13- While I was giving birth to Tsend, - my mother was bed bound.
0:37:14 > 0:37:16- As soon as she heard him cry...
0:37:16 > 0:37:19- ..she said - he had the voice of a monk.
0:37:19 > 0:37:22- Some monks - have a remarkable singing voice.
0:37:22 > 0:37:27- Perhaps she - did give him her blessing.
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- Perhaps she knew.
0:37:36 > 0:37:39- This prayer book - has been passed down...
0:37:39 > 0:37:42- ..from Tsend's great-great-uncle...
0:37:42 > 0:37:45- ..who was killed in 1937 - under Communist oppression.
0:37:46 > 0:37:49- Seeing the family - taking so much pride in Tsend...
0:37:50 > 0:37:52- ..as he prepares this book - is wonderful.
0:37:53 > 0:37:58- But the oppression - Tsend's great-uncle endured...
0:37:58 > 0:38:01- ..is still fresh in the memory.
0:38:04 > 0:38:08- When Mongolia came under - Communist rule in the 1920s...
0:38:08 > 0:38:11- ..religion was vilified.
0:38:13 > 0:38:17- Every monk was regarded - as an enemy of the state.
0:38:25 > 0:38:27- 30,000 people were executed...
0:38:27 > 0:38:30- ..during these savage times...
0:38:30 > 0:38:32- ..in Mongolia's history.
0:38:42 > 0:38:46- With the demise - of the Soviet Union in 1989...
0:38:47 > 0:38:49- ..everything changed.
0:38:50 > 0:38:53- Things - are still continuing to improve.
0:38:53 > 0:38:58- Today, a religious event is being - celebrated in the Gobi Desert.
0:38:58 > 0:39:01- Tsend is taking part.
0:39:06 > 0:39:09- Since it's a special - religious festival...
0:39:09 > 0:39:12- ..he summons the faithful - to the temple.
0:39:20 > 0:39:22- I'm responding to the call too.
0:39:36 > 0:39:38- There is - a special ambience once again.
0:39:39 > 0:39:42- It is intense - without being at all threatening.
0:39:44 > 0:39:49- So much so that I felt completely - at home here in the temple.
0:39:50 > 0:39:53- One of the festival's blessings...
0:39:53 > 0:39:56- ..is for every prayer to count.
0:39:58 > 0:40:04- One prayer is as good as 100 - and 100 prayers are as good as one.
0:40:04 > 0:40:09- It is also a blessing to take part - in the outdoor procession.
0:40:10 > 0:40:16- People are currently carrying these - prayer books around the monastery...
0:40:16 > 0:40:21- ..108 times because 108 is - a special number for Buddhists.
0:40:21 > 0:40:25- Every book must go around...
0:40:25 > 0:40:27- Oh!
0:40:29 > 0:40:31- Thank you.
0:40:31 > 0:40:36- I was about to say that every book - must be taken around 108 times.
0:40:36 > 0:40:39- As you can see in the background...
0:40:39 > 0:40:42- ..the older generation - is sitting down.
0:40:42 > 0:40:46- They've given their books - to fitter people like myself.
0:40:46 > 0:40:48- I'd better take them for a walk.
0:40:48 > 0:40:50- But how fit am I?
0:40:58 > 0:41:01- They're heavy.
0:41:03 > 0:41:08- I'm starting to lose count of the - number of times I've been around.
0:41:08 > 0:41:10- I'm still going.
0:41:12 > 0:41:16- The seats are beginning to look - very comfortable.
0:41:17 > 0:41:19- My arms are about to fall off.
0:41:19 > 0:41:23- I must give them back - to the person who gave them to me.
0:41:23 > 0:41:25- Thank you. Good luck.
0:41:26 > 0:41:29- You're very strong. Ta-ra!
0:41:36 > 0:41:39- After witnessing the celebration...
0:41:39 > 0:41:43- ..I'm convinced - the old faith has been revived.
0:41:48 > 0:41:53- These days, the young are more - religious than the older generation.
0:41:53 > 0:41:55- They respect the old rituals...
0:41:56 > 0:41:59- ..and call on the monks - to pray for them.
0:42:04 > 0:42:08- Money pours in - to the temples' coffers.
0:42:08 > 0:42:13- Following Buddha is something - completely contemporary.
0:42:13 > 0:42:16- MOBILE PHONE RINGS
0:42:16 > 0:42:21- But the old and the new don't - always co-exist so well in the Gobi.
0:42:23 > 0:42:28- Today, the majority of the desert's - residents live in large towns.
0:42:29 > 0:42:32- As more and more flock to the towns - from the villages...
0:42:33 > 0:42:36- ..there is a danger - that the old customs will die out.
0:42:37 > 0:42:39- 21st century industry...
0:42:40 > 0:42:42- ..is rapidly changing the Gobi...
0:42:42 > 0:42:47- ..but the people are determined - to retain the old traditions.
0:42:47 > 0:42:50- Welcome to the festival - that celebrates the camel.
0:42:54 > 0:42:58- Although the number of camels - in the Gobi is in decline...
0:42:59 > 0:43:03- ..everybody who attends - this festival dotes on the animal.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08- This man just might be - the camel's biggest fan.
0:43:13 > 0:43:17- I'm sure he makes perfect sense!
0:43:21 > 0:43:23- But I have no idea what he's saying!
0:43:29 > 0:43:32- Though that fact - doesn't seem to deter him!
0:43:36 > 0:43:39- At last the rodeo begins.
0:43:39 > 0:43:42- It's easier - to understand the commentary.
0:43:49 > 0:43:54- I think he's telling me that this is - one of the festival's highlights.
0:43:55 > 0:43:58- It's crazy because - they have to lasso the camels...
0:43:58 > 0:44:01- ..and some of them - are going bonkers.
0:44:01 > 0:44:06- I'd say these two are having fun - because they reek of alcohol!
0:44:06 > 0:44:09- Are you enjoying yourself? - Good. Yay!
0:44:11 > 0:44:14- Once the camels have been tamed...
0:44:14 > 0:44:17- ..the champions must load them.
0:44:20 > 0:44:25- Now I understand how people move - their ger from one place to another.
0:44:28 > 0:44:31- Believe it or not, - one of the winners...
0:44:31 > 0:44:34- ..is Aidee, - patriarch of the family...
0:44:34 > 0:44:38- ..I lived with - at the beginning of my journey.
0:44:38 > 0:44:42- Yes, it's a small world, - even in the Gobi!
0:44:45 > 0:44:49- Aidee is also one of - the festival's main promoters.
0:44:50 > 0:44:54- It's an opportunity to showcase - all the camel's skills...
0:44:54 > 0:44:56- ..and safeguard its future.
0:45:02 > 0:45:06- I'm doing my best to protect the - future of every camel in the Gobi...
0:45:07 > 0:45:11- ..whether they are used to race - or to transport people.
0:45:16 > 0:45:20- Everybody is braced for a dramatic - conclusion - the big race.
0:45:25 > 0:45:29- It's a feat - galloping camels across the snow.
0:45:32 > 0:45:37- It's a dangerous task, - yet every jockey goes all out...
0:45:37 > 0:45:40- ..to win the festival's main prize.
0:45:43 > 0:45:47- I suppose you could call it - the Ffos Las of the Gobi.
0:45:48 > 0:45:51- It's a closely-fought race - to the finish.
0:45:52 > 0:45:55- But there can only be one winner.
0:46:00 > 0:46:02- The camel - is in decline in the Gobi...
0:46:02 > 0:46:05- ..so festivals like this are vital.
0:46:05 > 0:46:10- But it's ironic that despite - the importance of these festivals...
0:46:10 > 0:46:13- ..the winning prize is a motorbike.
0:46:21 > 0:46:25- For the winning camel - - a lift home on the back of a truck.
0:46:33 > 0:46:38- I've come to the Gobi Desert during - a fateful chapter in its history.
0:46:41 > 0:46:44- Mining is swiftly transforming - its fortune.
0:46:44 > 0:46:49- The young may be benefiting, - but they must spare a thought...
0:46:49 > 0:46:51- ..for what they might also lose.
0:46:55 > 0:46:58- What a journey it has been - but it's finally at an end.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01- Despite the extreme climate...
0:47:01 > 0:47:05- ..the inhabitants - are strong and resilient...
0:47:05 > 0:47:09- ..and proud of their land - and their traditions.
0:47:10 > 0:47:14- These are people who are battling - the elements on a daily basis...
0:47:15 > 0:47:17- ..but know how to survive.
0:47:17 > 0:47:20- It has left a mark - the size of the Gobi Desert...
0:47:20 > 0:47:22- ..on this Welsh heart of mine.
0:48:04 > 0:48:06- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:06 > 0:48:07- .