0:00:00 > 0:00:00- *
0:00:02 > 0:00:05- The desert - - arid, desolate, uncompromising.
0:00:08 > 0:00:12- A barren landscape - that extends far and wide.
0:00:18 > 0:00:23- But it is in these unfamiliar places - that nature flourishes...
0:00:23 > 0:00:25- ..and inhabitants dwell.
0:00:29 > 0:00:32- With vigour and resilience, - they have learnt to survive...
0:00:33 > 0:00:36- ..and forged a unique way of life.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43- But today the modern world - is turning the screw.
0:00:43 > 0:00:47- Trade and industry - covet the desert's resources.
0:00:47 > 0:00:52- Natives have had to adapt - quicker than ever before.
0:00:55 > 0:00:59- This is the story - of resilient and tenacious people...
0:01:00 > 0:01:03- ..preserving their habitat - and fighting for the right...
0:01:04 > 0:01:08- ..to live in the most - challenging places on earth.
0:01:29 > 0:01:33- My adventure begins - in Windhoek, the capital of Namibia.
0:01:33 > 0:01:35- How exciting!
0:01:50 > 0:01:55- There is no desert anywhere - in the world older than the Namib.
0:01:56 > 0:01:58- For 80 million years...
0:01:59 > 0:02:03- ..sand dunes have stood here - on the Atlantic coast of Africa.
0:02:09 > 0:02:10- Wow!
0:02:11 > 0:02:16- Thanks to my pilot's kindness and - his expert knowledge of the Namib...
0:02:16 > 0:02:21- ..I'm able to view this ancient - wilderness in a contemporary way.
0:02:23 > 0:02:27- I can understand why people - are so passionate about flying.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31- My adrenaline is pumping, - my heart is in my mouth...
0:02:31 > 0:02:35- ..and it's a thrill being up here - - I've never felt more alive.
0:02:35 > 0:02:41- Being above such spectacular scenery - makes me feel quite spiritual.
0:02:41 > 0:02:44- I'm grinning - like a Cheshire cat up here!
0:02:47 > 0:02:49- From one year to the next...
0:02:50 > 0:02:54- ..there are parts of the Namib - that never see rain.
0:02:54 > 0:02:57- The coastline is a ships' graveyard.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- The rugged landscape - is a challenging environment...
0:03:01 > 0:03:04- ..in which to live...
0:03:04 > 0:03:07- ..despite Namibia's vast plains.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10- Two million people - live in this country...
0:03:10 > 0:03:14- ..compared to the - three-million population of Wales.
0:03:14 > 0:03:20- It's no wonder the unpopulated space - is referred to as the Namib Desert.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23- But having seen - the occasional zebra...
0:03:23 > 0:03:27- ..you're reminded - there is also life in the desert.
0:03:27 > 0:03:30- Survival is possible - in these extreme conditions.
0:03:31 > 0:03:33- Zebras are not the only inhabitants.
0:03:33 > 0:03:35- The trained eye...
0:03:36 > 0:03:39- ..can spot all kinds of wildlife - in the Namib...
0:03:39 > 0:03:45- ..from the smallest species - to the desert's largest mammals.
0:03:45 > 0:03:48- You will also find - people living here.
0:03:49 > 0:03:51- My thirst for adventure...
0:03:51 > 0:03:54- ..has led me - to all kinds of rough terrains...
0:03:55 > 0:03:58- ..but I always seem - to hurtle through them.
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- It will be a challenge for me - to bide my time...
0:04:04 > 0:04:08- ..and observe those who must - live self-sufficiently here.
0:04:13 > 0:04:14- What of its future?
0:04:15 > 0:04:17- HIV and AIDS are rife here.
0:04:17 > 0:04:21- It's claimed that one - in every four children in Namibia...
0:04:22 > 0:04:24- ..will be - left destitute by the disease.
0:04:25 > 0:04:30- Getting to grips with the Namib - is going to be quite a challenge.
0:04:30 > 0:04:35- I'm relieved that my journey's - arrangements are in expert hands.
0:04:37 > 0:04:41- Bertus Schoeman is the pilot.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- He and his family - also cater for tourists on land.
0:04:47 > 0:04:50- Bertus's father - was the first to realize...
0:04:50 > 0:04:54- ..the desert's appeal - as a tourist attraction.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58- These are all lavas that came out - when the continents broke apart.
0:04:59 > 0:05:01- He campaigned - for the first national park...
0:05:02 > 0:05:05- ..in order to preserve - the Namib's wonders...
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- ..one of which - is the archaic sand dunes.
0:05:10 > 0:05:14- They rise to a height of 300m...
0:05:14 > 0:05:18- ..and some measure - more than 30km in length.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26- The dunes are a challenge, even for - the most experienced driver.
0:05:27 > 0:05:32- It'd be fun to see Ralio's drivers - trying to negotiate these slopes!
0:05:43 > 0:05:46- You made it. You actually made it.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58- Louw Schoeman, the father of Namib's - conservation, died many years ago.
0:05:58 > 0:06:01- His son, Henk, is still here...
0:06:01 > 0:06:03- ..to preserve his legacy...
0:06:03 > 0:06:07- ..along with - his older brother, Bertus.
0:06:07 > 0:06:12- We're indebted to the Schoeman - family because without them...
0:06:12 > 0:06:16- ..there wouldn't be - a national park or conservation.
0:06:16 > 0:06:21- I'm so glad that the sons are - continuing their father's vision...
0:06:21 > 0:06:26- ..because without them, hundreds - of people, ourselves included...
0:06:26 > 0:06:30- ..couldn't come here - to appreciate this remarkable place.
0:06:33 > 0:06:36- This is - the culmination of their work.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- An oasis in the desert...
0:06:44 > 0:06:47- ..and home to some - of Africa's most beautiful animals.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- But what about - the people of the Namib?
0:07:05 > 0:07:09- I'm heading north - to the Purros region.
0:07:11 > 0:07:16- I'm visiting a remote farm, home to - a small number of the Himba tribe.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25- It's time to introduce myself - to the Namib's remote natives.
0:07:34 > 0:07:39- Without delay, I get stuck in - to the work of these desert women.
0:07:48 > 0:07:53- The men are with the animals, - searching for grazing pasture...
0:07:53 > 0:07:56- ..so the women - are left to run the household.
0:08:07 > 0:08:11- It's labour intensive - and completely essential, of course.
0:08:13 > 0:08:17- But there's still time - to share a few treats...
0:08:17 > 0:08:19- ..as we take turns to pump.
0:08:19 > 0:08:22- Thank you.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26- Nice!
0:08:31 > 0:08:35- It's remarkable watching - these women working in tandem.
0:08:35 > 0:08:37- They've worked out a system...
0:08:38 > 0:08:42- ..and each of them - knows exactly what to do.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45- It all seems very organized.
0:08:48 > 0:08:50- Now it's time for the real test.
0:08:53 > 0:08:57- Thanks! I'm going - to get a soaking any minute now!
0:09:08 > 0:09:10- Over here?
0:09:16 > 0:09:19- The new recruit - is starting to tire...
0:09:19 > 0:09:22- ..but there's - no chance of a rest just yet.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31- They need firewood, - otherwise there'll be no breakfast.
0:09:33 > 0:09:36- And this? Yes?
0:09:41 > 0:09:45- The branches are so dry, - they've become very sharp.
0:09:45 > 0:09:50- I've already cut myself. - They're very kind to me, fair play.
0:09:53 > 0:09:55- Yes?
0:09:56 > 0:09:58- There we go.
0:09:58 > 0:10:02- I feel quite proud - that I'm giving them a hand.
0:10:06 > 0:10:08- We make our way back home.
0:10:15 > 0:10:19- If it were a race, there'd be - no gold medal for me today.
0:10:23 > 0:10:26- I was determined to walk - that two miles with the women.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29- I'm so glad I did.
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- No words were spoken between us - but we had fun and laughed.
0:10:33 > 0:10:39- I'm glad I've just done - one small thing to help this family.
0:10:39 > 0:10:41- Dankie.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- Good helper, - good helper, good helper!
0:10:47 > 0:10:51- Did she say "good helper"? I hope - I was a useful helper, anyhow!
0:10:55 > 0:10:59- It's wonderful to be accepted - by these diligent women.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04- Now there is firewood...
0:11:04 > 0:11:09- ..Zaharara lights the fire to make - sweetcorn porridge for everyone.
0:11:12 > 0:11:15- With everyone else - busy with other duties...
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- ..I make sure - that visitors from Wales...
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- ..uphold - their good helper reputation!
0:11:22 > 0:11:24- Yes?
0:11:29 > 0:11:33- It's hard work, - especially in this oppressive heat.
0:11:37 > 0:11:38- OK?
0:11:39 > 0:11:41- At last it's time to relax...
0:11:41 > 0:11:45- ..and experience more - of the tribe's customs.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56- With a scarcity of water - in the area...
0:11:56 > 0:12:01- ..instead of a wet shower, these - women are having a smoke shower.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- They burn the twigs - of a very special tree.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10- A beautiful aroma fills the cabin.
0:12:14 > 0:12:17- It has a very nice smell.
0:12:17 > 0:12:19- It's quite sweet.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25- Having relaxed in the shower, - it's time for make-up.
0:12:25 > 0:12:29- This paste is called otjize.
0:12:30 > 0:12:33- It's made from ashes, - ochre and butter fat.
0:12:33 > 0:12:38- The red colour symbolizes vitality, - which is also true of our culture.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- The otjize keeps the skin moist...
0:12:47 > 0:12:52- ..and protects it from - the damaging effects of the sun.
0:12:52 > 0:12:56- Now that we all look so pretty, - we're off to the ball!
0:12:58 > 0:13:00- THEY YELL GRUFFLY
0:13:08 > 0:13:12- I've only been - with these women a short while...
0:13:12 > 0:13:16- ..but during that time, - they've shown me so much kindness.
0:13:17 > 0:13:21- They've looked after me and - made me feel like one of the family.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24- I'm very grateful to them for that.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- I feel very touched, to be honest.
0:13:28 > 0:13:33- It's been a short time, and if I - were completely honest with you...
0:13:33 > 0:13:36- ..I'd like - to stay with them a little longer.
0:13:42 > 0:13:46- But perhaps I haven't - quite mastered the Himba style yet!
0:13:49 > 0:13:49- .
0:13:53 > 0:13:53- Subtitles
0:13:53 > 0:13:55- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:13:57 > 0:14:01- The healthy children - of the Namib Desert are full of fun.
0:14:03 > 0:14:06- But when disease - strikes the inhabitants...
0:14:06 > 0:14:09- ..medical provision is scarce.
0:14:09 > 0:14:12- As we prepare to leave - the Himba women...
0:14:12 > 0:14:16- ..we hear that a mobile hospital - has arrived in the nearest town...
0:14:17 > 0:14:19- ..for the very first time.
0:14:23 > 0:14:27- The smallest children - are offered transport...
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- ..in the clinic's vehicle.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34- I needed medical attention too.
0:14:34 > 0:14:36- I have a sore neck. Here.
0:14:36 > 0:14:39- Here.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41- Yes. Yes.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- You walk like this...
0:14:44 > 0:14:48- ..and I'm like this.
0:14:50 > 0:14:53- In the end, everybody - decides to visit the doctor...
0:14:54 > 0:14:56- ..despite the distance.
0:15:00 > 0:15:02- A day like today - is vital for the community.
0:15:03 > 0:15:06- People have walked miles - to the town.
0:15:06 > 0:15:10- It is the first time ever for the - mobile medical unit to come here.
0:15:11 > 0:15:14- With diseases rife...
0:15:14 > 0:15:17- ..and medical treatment scarce...
0:15:17 > 0:15:21- ..it's important - that these children and adults...
0:15:21 > 0:15:24- ..receive vital medical attention.
0:15:26 > 0:15:28- The children of the desert...
0:15:29 > 0:15:31- ..tend to be small for their age...
0:15:32 > 0:15:36- ..especially when very young - as a result of poor nutrition.
0:15:36 > 0:15:40- But the Namib...
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- ..faces a far more sinister problem.
0:15:43 > 0:15:48- One person in every three in Namibia - carries the HIV virus.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56- This epidemic - tears lives apart in the desert.
0:15:58 > 0:16:00- Good morning, class.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05- All the children in this village - are orphans.
0:16:05 > 0:16:07- Their parents have died from AIDS.
0:16:07 > 0:16:09- Their parents have died from AIDS.- - Arms.
0:16:10 > 0:16:12- Hello.
0:16:12 > 0:16:14- Hello.
0:16:18 > 0:16:21- It's hard to believe, - but none of these poor children...
0:16:22 > 0:16:24- ..has a mother or a father.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27- Good, thank you very much.
0:16:27 > 0:16:31- Can I teach you all - a lesson in singing Welsh?
0:16:31 > 0:16:33- Yes? Is that OK?
0:16:33 > 0:16:37- Head is "pen". "Pen."
0:16:37 > 0:16:40- It's called "pen" in Welsh.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42- "Ysgwyddau."
0:16:42 > 0:16:44- "Coesau."
0:16:44 > 0:16:46- "Traed."
0:16:46 > 0:16:48- OK?
0:16:48 > 0:16:53- # Pen, ysgwyddau, - coesau, traed, coesau, traed.
0:16:53 > 0:16:58- # Pen, ysgwyddau, - coesau, traed, coesau, traed
0:16:58 > 0:17:01- # Pen, ysgwyddau, coesau, traed
0:17:01 > 0:17:05- "Pen, ysgwyddau, - coesau traed, coesau traed #
0:17:06 > 0:17:08- Everybody come to the letter A.
0:17:08 > 0:17:09- Stand here.
0:17:10 > 0:17:15- A charity runs the school here and - cares for the orphans day and night.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21- Each child - has had to overcome adversity.
0:17:21 > 0:17:25- Sadly, Upo arrived here - at two months' old...
0:17:25 > 0:17:28- ..following - his parents' death from HIV.
0:17:28 > 0:17:31- But look at him now. - He's eight years old.
0:17:33 > 0:17:35- Upo's story is far from unique.
0:17:36 > 0:17:38- Bye-bye, class.
0:17:38 > 0:17:39- Bye-bye, teacher.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42- Bye-bye, teacher.- - Jaco Burger was inspired...
0:17:42 > 0:17:46- ..to establish the charity - more than a decade ago.
0:17:46 > 0:17:49- Jaco is of Afrikaans descent.
0:17:49 > 0:17:51- Through his voluntary work...
0:17:51 > 0:17:55- ..he witnessed - the effects of AIDS on the young.
0:18:00 > 0:18:02- The disease - was rife in many villages...
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- ..leaving few healthy adults - to look after the children.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11- I decided I wanted to do my - little bit for the Himba people...
0:18:12 > 0:18:16- ..and the Himba community to start - a place where children can be safe.
0:18:17 > 0:18:20- Jaco works alongside wife, Mukayo.
0:18:20 > 0:18:24- She is now - the honourable Queen of the Orphans.
0:18:25 > 0:18:27- A decade ago...
0:18:28 > 0:18:30- ..Jaco came to work in her village.
0:18:31 > 0:18:33- We became good friends - around that time.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36- He then asked me to work with him...
0:18:36 > 0:18:39- ..for two months, to begin with.
0:18:41 > 0:18:43- But two months turned into a year.
0:18:44 > 0:18:49- And then a year turned into - another year, and then another...
0:18:49 > 0:18:51- ..and another.
0:18:55 > 0:18:57- By now it's been 10 years.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04- After marrying, Mukayo realized - that she couldn't conceive.
0:19:07 > 0:19:10- That's when the couple - decided to help the orphans.
0:19:14 > 0:19:19- Jaco and Mukayo's village is - now home to more than 40 children.
0:19:19 > 0:19:23- Several adults have joined them - from other villages...
0:19:24 > 0:19:29- ..that have been - adversely affected by AIDS.
0:19:29 > 0:19:32- The care and education - they receive...
0:19:32 > 0:19:35- ..is among the best - the Namib has to offer.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38- Jaco and Mukayo...
0:19:38 > 0:19:41- ..have created - a new tribe in the village.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- As a couple from two - different tribes who've united...
0:19:46 > 0:19:47- ..it's important to them...
0:19:48 > 0:19:53- ..to preserve the Himba's heritage - as well respecting other cultures.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00- The children have a bright future.
0:20:00 > 0:20:02- Our culture will progress.
0:20:03 > 0:20:05- RHYTHMIC CLAPPING
0:20:11 > 0:20:15- I have to admit, - I didn't know what to expect...
0:20:15 > 0:20:17- ..when I arrived in the village.
0:20:17 > 0:20:21- But now I can say it's been - a roller coaster of emotions.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- Considering the Himba is a tribe...
0:20:26 > 0:20:29- ..who strongly believe - in the family unit...
0:20:30 > 0:20:33- ..it broke my heart - to see so many children...
0:20:33 > 0:20:35- ..orphaned.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- But on the other hand, - it's a heroic story.
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- I'm pleased to see what they've - done, not only with the children...
0:20:45 > 0:20:48- ..but with the entire family here.
0:20:48 > 0:20:50- I think I'll leave here happy...
0:20:51 > 0:20:55- ..after seeing - how content the children are...
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- ..knowing they're in safe hands.
0:21:03 > 0:21:07- My style of dancing is improving - too, even if I say so myself!
0:21:19 > 0:21:23- The Namib's sand dunes - seem completely barren...
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- ..but every desert - has its own unique ecosystem.
0:21:29 > 0:21:32- The Namib's begins at the shoreline.
0:21:34 > 0:21:37- But despite being - this close to the Atlantic...
0:21:38 > 0:21:40- ..it's pretty grim here.
0:21:41 > 0:21:46- I can understand why they call - this coastline the Skeleton Coast.
0:21:46 > 0:21:51- It's a graveyard for shipwrecks, - aircraft and animals...
0:21:51 > 0:21:53- ..as well as sailors.
0:21:53 > 0:21:55- Imagine some 200 years ago...
0:21:55 > 0:22:01- ..sailors arriving at the shoreline, - having survived a shipwreck...
0:22:01 > 0:22:04- ..thinking, - 'Great, I'm still alive'...
0:22:04 > 0:22:07- ..and then facing the desert - and realizing...
0:22:08 > 0:22:11- ..they had another - major obstacle to overcome.
0:22:11 > 0:22:13- They would've been lucky...
0:22:14 > 0:22:17- ..to have survived a week - without food or water.
0:22:25 > 0:22:29- But miraculously, the mists - that roll in from the sea...
0:22:29 > 0:22:33- ..produce enough moisture - to sustain life in the wilderness.
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- But it requires - an expert eye to spot it.
0:22:40 > 0:22:45- Today the children are familiarizing - themselves with the wildlife.
0:22:52 > 0:22:54- Thank you, Tommy. Hello.
0:22:54 > 0:22:57- Hello. I'm Lowri. How are you?
0:22:57 > 0:22:59- Hello.
0:23:00 > 0:23:04- More and more Namibians - are living an urban lifestyle.
0:23:04 > 0:23:09- Here in Erongo, the population - has doubled over the past 20 years.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15- For the children, - city life provides many advantages.
0:23:15 > 0:23:20- They are up-to-date with fashion, - technology and modern gadgets.
0:23:23 > 0:23:28- But the sand dunes are unfamiliar - to them, which is a great pity...
0:23:28 > 0:23:32- ..according to Tommy Collard, - an expert on the Namib's wildlife.
0:23:32 > 0:23:34- I have a very large office.
0:23:35 > 0:23:37- This is my office.
0:23:38 > 0:23:41- We live - in an electronic age nowadays.
0:23:41 > 0:23:44- They actually make a joke - that children are born...
0:23:45 > 0:23:49- ..with thick thumbs - to play PlayStations.
0:23:49 > 0:23:52- If you do not expose them - to this environment...
0:23:52 > 0:23:56- ..and the importance of it, - when they have the opportunity...
0:23:56 > 0:24:01- ..to make decisions, - this will not be important for them.
0:24:01 > 0:24:06- That's why the education of kids - is at the top of my heart.
0:24:26 > 0:24:28- He never misses.
0:24:37 > 0:24:40- We're all - enjoying ourselves today.
0:24:40 > 0:24:44- Tommy's energy and enthusiasm - is remarkable.
0:24:44 > 0:24:47- His passion has rubbed off on us.
0:24:47 > 0:24:51- The children are listening intently - to his every word.
0:24:51 > 0:24:53- It's hard to believe...
0:24:53 > 0:24:58- ..that the children only live a few - miles away from the sand dunes...
0:24:58 > 0:25:03- ..yet they know so little about - the tiny creatures that live here.
0:25:03 > 0:25:08- Look at that. In the pallet - of the mouth they have an opening.
0:25:11 > 0:25:13- I used to think when I come here...
0:25:14 > 0:25:17- ..to the dunes - I'd just run into a snake anytime.
0:25:17 > 0:25:20- But now I saw the bushman...
0:25:21 > 0:25:24- ..I can see - whether it's a snake or not.
0:25:24 > 0:25:26- On your knees before me.
0:25:27 > 0:25:32- The aim of the session is to get the - children to overcome their fears...
0:25:32 > 0:25:36- ..and enjoy seeing and touching - the Namib's creatures.
0:25:36 > 0:25:38- And that includes me too.
0:25:42 > 0:25:45- Turn a little bit - towards the left there.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50- There's a first time for everything.
0:25:50 > 0:25:53- It doesn't feel that bad, - to be honest...
0:25:53 > 0:25:56- ..but I can feel - the animal shaking about.
0:25:56 > 0:26:00- I don't think I can keep this up.
0:26:00 > 0:26:02- Could you take it off now, please?
0:26:05 > 0:26:08- He doesn't want to. - Wait, wait, wait. One moment.
0:26:18 > 0:26:19- .
0:26:22 > 0:26:22- Subtitles
0:26:22 > 0:26:24- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:26:26 > 0:26:28- Camping in the Namib.
0:26:28 > 0:26:31- No matter - how experienced the traveller...
0:26:32 > 0:26:35- ..there is plenty here - to make someone on edge.
0:26:35 > 0:26:38- I'm a bag of nerves at the moment.
0:26:39 > 0:26:44- I was sitting here having my supper - after a hard day's work...
0:26:44 > 0:26:48- ..and the next thing we knew...
0:26:48 > 0:26:51- ..a wild elephant passed us...
0:26:51 > 0:26:55- ..only a matter - of five metres away.
0:26:56 > 0:27:01- He's now in the woods over there...
0:27:01 > 0:27:03- ..eating.
0:27:03 > 0:27:06- I'm not going to - shine the torch too much...
0:27:06 > 0:27:09- ..in case - I draw attention to myself.
0:27:09 > 0:27:11- But the car's doors are open...
0:27:11 > 0:27:15- ..just in case - he decides to run at us.
0:27:17 > 0:27:19- I'm so nervous, I can't speak.
0:27:19 > 0:27:22- My heart's in my mouth.
0:27:29 > 0:27:31- ELEPHANT GROANS
0:27:38 > 0:27:40- Did you hear that?
0:27:40 > 0:27:45- A sound like that - is enough to keep us all awake.
0:27:54 > 0:27:56- The elephants of the desert.
0:27:59 > 0:28:03- There is nowhere in the world - apart from the Namib...
0:28:04 > 0:28:07- ..and one other desert - where they wander freely.
0:28:13 > 0:28:17- Everyone who visits here - is eager to see them up close...
0:28:17 > 0:28:21- ..but from a safe distance - because there's no doubt...
0:28:21 > 0:28:26- ..that despite their beauty, - these creatures are large and wild.
0:28:27 > 0:28:32- Camping in this country - is a different experience...
0:28:32 > 0:28:34- ..from camping at home in Wales.
0:28:34 > 0:28:38- Instead of worrying about - proximity to the toilets...
0:28:38 > 0:28:42- ..here you have to worry about - the presence of elephants!
0:28:42 > 0:28:47- But it is possible to co-exist - as long as you follow the rules.
0:28:47 > 0:28:50- For instance, - once you reach the main road...
0:28:50 > 0:28:54- ..instead of checking for cars, - you look both ways...
0:28:54 > 0:28:58- ..to make sure there are - no elephants on the road.
0:29:02 > 0:29:04- Look who passed us...
0:29:04 > 0:29:10- ..just a few metres away from our - beds, in search of food and water.
0:29:10 > 0:29:12- Elephants.
0:29:12 > 0:29:14- Look at this.
0:29:14 > 0:29:16- Their feet are enormous.
0:29:17 > 0:29:19- Incredible, isn't it?
0:29:26 > 0:29:30- This breed of elephant - has adapted perfectly to the desert.
0:29:40 > 0:29:44- Their most valuable asset - is their ability to find water.
0:29:48 > 0:29:51- Mothers can lead their offspring...
0:29:51 > 0:29:55- ..hundreds of miles - across the desert to a well...
0:29:55 > 0:29:59- ..even if they've - only drunk from there once before.
0:30:01 > 0:30:03- They can hear the sound of rain...
0:30:04 > 0:30:06- ..far across the Namib's plains...
0:30:07 > 0:30:10- ..and follow the sound - in order to quench their thirst.
0:30:11 > 0:30:16- Desert people - knew that following the elephant...
0:30:16 > 0:30:21- ..would also lead them - to fresh drinking water.
0:30:21 > 0:30:25- The Namib's tribes - such as the Herero...
0:30:25 > 0:30:28- ..put that knowledge - to good use while farming...
0:30:28 > 0:30:32- ..so that it benefited their cattle.
0:30:32 > 0:30:36- But the 19th century - brought new competition...
0:30:36 > 0:30:39- ..for the desert's resources...
0:30:39 > 0:30:43- ..sparking the bleakest period - in the Namib's history.
0:30:45 > 0:30:49- German farmers - came to settle here...
0:30:49 > 0:30:52- ..and acquired the Herero's land.
0:30:53 > 0:30:58- Violence - soon escalated into genocide.
0:31:01 > 0:31:03- Thousands of the Herero's men...
0:31:04 > 0:31:07- ..women and children were killed.
0:31:09 > 0:31:11- Thousands more were imprisoned...
0:31:12 > 0:31:16- ..in abominable conditions - or turned into slaves.
0:31:20 > 0:31:23- 80,000 of the tribe - lived in the Namib...
0:31:23 > 0:31:25- ..before the atrocities began.
0:31:26 > 0:31:28- Fewer than 15,000 survived.
0:31:37 > 0:31:41- In the desert, close to - the town of Okambe-Odombo...
0:31:41 > 0:31:43- ..where the genocide took place...
0:31:44 > 0:31:46- ..some of the Herero remain.
0:31:46 > 0:31:50- They are still here, - keeping goats and cattle.
0:31:54 > 0:31:58- Festus Tjiveze - is a farmer and a proud Herero.
0:31:58 > 0:32:02- Despite the tribe's - bloody and cruel past...
0:32:03 > 0:32:06- ..he and his family, - along with many other tribesmen...
0:32:07 > 0:32:10- ..have adopted elements - from the German way of life.
0:32:13 > 0:32:18- Festus's wife, Ella, dresses in the - style of the European oppressors...
0:32:18 > 0:32:23- ..despite its impracticality - for farm work.
0:32:27 > 0:32:32- This is the kind of dress my mother - wore, and her mother before her.
0:32:32 > 0:32:35- Mother told me - I should always wear it.
0:32:35 > 0:32:37- She said it was part of our culture.
0:32:42 > 0:32:46- The Germans kept women like Ella's - great-grandmother as servants.
0:32:47 > 0:32:49- But they were loath to accept...
0:32:49 > 0:32:54- ..the Herero's uninhibited custom - for baring their bodies.
0:32:55 > 0:32:59- The masters insisted - they cover their bare breasts.
0:33:02 > 0:33:06- At least Ella's hat is a symbol - of the tribe's tradition.
0:33:07 > 0:33:11- It signifies the cattle's horns.
0:33:11 > 0:33:16- The attire has since become part - of the Herero's identity...
0:33:16 > 0:33:21- ..and the tribeswomen are very proud - of their dressmaking skills.
0:33:22 > 0:33:25- Her skill as a seamstress - is the mark of a good wife.
0:33:25 > 0:33:28- I made all these clothes myself.
0:33:28 > 0:33:31- My mother taught me.
0:33:32 > 0:33:35- I used to sit next to her - and watch her as she sewed.
0:33:40 > 0:33:42- This is the outfit I wear to town.
0:33:44 > 0:33:49- I wear this during the ceremonies to - remember the Herero's lost heroes.
0:33:52 > 0:33:54- One, two...
0:33:57 > 0:34:00- Counting the many outfits - is a tradition here.
0:34:02 > 0:34:04- It's worthy of pride.
0:34:07 > 0:34:10- I think the dress says it all. - Happiness.
0:34:12 > 0:34:14- Thank you.
0:34:17 > 0:34:20- The Tjiavezes - rely on their livestock.
0:34:20 > 0:34:25- Each day they must ensure - there is enough water for them.
0:34:28 > 0:34:31- But Festus isn't the only one...
0:34:31 > 0:34:34- ..who knows this well's whereabouts.
0:34:37 > 0:34:40- The desert's elephants - need water too.
0:34:44 > 0:34:48- It's a problem - because once the elephants come...
0:34:48 > 0:34:52- ..if there's no water, - they cause damage...
0:34:52 > 0:34:54- ..and throw sand everywhere.
0:34:56 > 0:34:59- That's what happened - to this water trough.
0:35:00 > 0:35:02- The battle for water...
0:35:02 > 0:35:05- ..is a result of climate change.
0:35:05 > 0:35:09- Elephants and people - are pitted against each other...
0:35:09 > 0:35:12- ..in frighteningly destructive ways.
0:35:14 > 0:35:18- Festus has just told me - about the night he was away...
0:35:18 > 0:35:20- ..tending to his goats...
0:35:20 > 0:35:25- ..when Ella heard the elephant - coming up the road.
0:35:25 > 0:35:28- It ate from that tree over there...
0:35:29 > 0:35:33- ..infiltrated the goats' pen - and singled one out.
0:35:33 > 0:35:39- Unfortunately he threw the goat up - in the air and trod on the poor dab.
0:35:39 > 0:35:43- I can imagine how frightened Ella - must have been of the elephant...
0:35:44 > 0:35:47- ..because I've heard - the sound with my own ears.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50- I imagine it even frightens those...
0:35:50 > 0:35:54- ..who are used to seeing - these huge creatures.
0:35:55 > 0:35:59- But elephants are suffering too, - and not only from a lack of water.
0:36:00 > 0:36:02- Although it's illegal...
0:36:02 > 0:36:04- ..it's fashionable...
0:36:05 > 0:36:08- ..to come to the Namib - to hunt elephant.
0:36:10 > 0:36:15- It's no wonder these wild creatures - react with ferocity.
0:36:18 > 0:36:23- It'd be a travesty for the Namib - if the Herero lost the desire...
0:36:23 > 0:36:27- ..to live alongside - the elephants in the desert.
0:36:27 > 0:36:30- Thank goodness - there's a scheme in place...
0:36:30 > 0:36:36- ..to give local people the chance to - study the elephant in its habitat.
0:36:40 > 0:36:42- Ella and I...
0:36:42 > 0:36:47- ..join a safari that brings humans - face to face with wild elephants.
0:36:48 > 0:36:51- The elephants - are at that hill there.
0:36:59 > 0:37:02- I have to admit, - I'm uneasy about this.
0:37:02 > 0:37:06- I'm nervous, especially - being in this open vehicle.
0:37:06 > 0:37:08- But at the end of the day...
0:37:08 > 0:37:13- ..I really hope - I get to see a few elephants.
0:37:16 > 0:37:19- At last, here they are.
0:37:27 > 0:37:29- For many of the group...
0:37:29 > 0:37:32- ..this is the closest - they've come to an elephant.
0:37:48 > 0:37:52- I've always considered myself - very lucky.
0:37:52 > 0:37:56- I've been on exciting adventures - and travelled the world...
0:37:56 > 0:37:59- ..but honestly, - from the bottom of my heart...
0:38:00 > 0:38:03- ..this is one of - the best things I've ever seen.
0:38:04 > 0:38:06- I feel very privileged.
0:38:06 > 0:38:10- And despite - Ella's unfortunate episode...
0:38:10 > 0:38:13- ..with an elephant at home...
0:38:13 > 0:38:15- ..she's changed her mind.
0:38:16 > 0:38:18- I was afraid of them, at first.
0:38:19 > 0:38:21- But having come close to them...
0:38:21 > 0:38:24- ..I'm starting to get used to them.
0:38:27 > 0:38:29- They're very handsome.
0:38:30 > 0:38:36- But, of course, not all of them - react in the same way...
0:38:36 > 0:38:40- ..which highlights the need - for this unique scheme.
0:38:43 > 0:38:45- When the elephant threw dust...
0:38:45 > 0:38:49- ..like he was trying to determine - the direction of the wind...
0:38:50 > 0:38:52- ..my heart was racing.
0:38:57 > 0:39:01- I was scared. My body - was warm and cold at the same time.
0:39:06 > 0:39:08- I'm still shaking.
0:39:16 > 0:39:21- Face to face with the elephants - of the Namib Desert.
0:39:25 > 0:39:29- This is one of - the best experiences of my life.
0:39:36 > 0:39:36- .
0:39:39 > 0:39:39- Subtitles
0:39:39 > 0:39:41- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:39:44 > 0:39:48- The mountains of the Namib - hide a wealth of treasures.
0:39:53 > 0:39:56- 10% of the world's uranium supply - lies beneath them.
0:39:58 > 0:40:02- In the north, surrounding - Namibia's highest peaks...
0:40:03 > 0:40:05- ..they mine for precious gems.
0:40:07 > 0:40:10- But it is not the concern - of major companies...
0:40:11 > 0:40:13- ..but family-run businesses.
0:40:14 > 0:40:16- Before I leave the Namib...
0:40:17 > 0:40:20- ..I visit - the Brandberg Mountain region...
0:40:20 > 0:40:24- ..to witness how a family - is able to survive in the desert.
0:40:24 > 0:40:27- Hello, how are you?
0:40:27 > 0:40:28- Good morning.
0:40:28 > 0:40:30- Good morning.- - I'm Ras. Pleased to meet you.
0:40:31 > 0:40:33- Lowri. Hello.
0:40:33 > 0:40:35- This is Martha.
0:40:35 > 0:40:38- Ras and Martha - have raised their family...
0:40:38 > 0:40:41- ..in this remote wilderness.
0:40:42 > 0:40:47- Although breakfast time at the - Greef home seems pretty civilised...
0:40:47 > 0:40:49- Can I sit here?
0:40:50 > 0:40:55- ..they acknowledge this way of life - isn't to everybody's liking.
0:40:59 > 0:41:01- The desert doesn't suit everybody.
0:41:02 > 0:41:05- When you look - at the wilderness around you...
0:41:05 > 0:41:09- ..and then place yourself - in that wilderness...
0:41:09 > 0:41:12- ..you realize - how small you actually are.
0:41:12 > 0:41:15- The desert - has a profound effect on a person.
0:41:16 > 0:41:18- It makes you resilient...
0:41:18 > 0:41:20- ..and forces you to adapt.
0:41:20 > 0:41:23- The desert - doesn't change for anyone.
0:41:30 > 0:41:33- It hasn't rained here for two years.
0:41:33 > 0:41:37- A shortage of water - is the family's biggest concern.
0:41:37 > 0:41:41- They have to travel - around 50 miles once a week...
0:41:41 > 0:41:44- ..to fetch water in order to live.
0:41:44 > 0:41:47- After the dishes are washed, - it's time for homework.
0:41:49 > 0:41:53- Instead of sending - their children away to school...
0:41:53 > 0:41:59- ..Martha and Ras have decided - to tutor their children at home...
0:41:59 > 0:42:03- ..in order - to keep the family unit together.
0:42:03 > 0:42:07- While Mam - turns her attention to teaching...
0:42:08 > 0:42:10- ..Dad is eager to begin his work.
0:42:24 > 0:42:27- Ultimately, it is the quarry - which sustains the family.
0:42:28 > 0:42:32- If you need to move a mountain, - all you need is simple equipment...
0:42:32 > 0:42:35- ..elbow grease - and plenty of dedication.
0:42:38 > 0:42:40- For the most stubborn rocks...
0:42:41 > 0:42:43- ..a pinch of gunpowder - comes in handy.
0:42:52 > 0:42:56- Within the rock, they hope to find - diamond or crystal.
0:42:56 > 0:42:58- The more, the better.
0:43:00 > 0:43:02- It's very pretty.
0:43:03 > 0:43:05- Very pretty, Ras.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08- Demand for gems is on the rise...
0:43:08 > 0:43:12- ..but do we truly appreciate - the effort required to produce them?
0:43:17 > 0:43:21- These men have been working - since the early hours...
0:43:21 > 0:43:25- ..in this intense heat, - searching for their fortune.
0:43:25 > 0:43:28- These are - the fruits of their hard labour.
0:43:28 > 0:43:32- I must admit, I have the utmost - respect for every one of them.
0:43:33 > 0:43:36- They work incredibly hard...
0:43:37 > 0:43:40- ..without the aid - of modern machines.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44- Each of them - dreams of making his fortune...
0:43:44 > 0:43:47- ..but this isn't the end product.
0:43:47 > 0:43:50- The hard work has only just begun.
0:43:52 > 0:43:56- They must mould and polish the gems.
0:43:56 > 0:43:59- Martha and daughter Ella - ensure that the family...
0:44:00 > 0:44:03- ..profits fully - from the men's hard work.
0:44:05 > 0:44:08- Shaping the stone - increases its value.
0:44:12 > 0:44:16- If we make it a labour of love - and put in a lot of effort...
0:44:16 > 0:44:19- ..we'll get - a better price for our labour.
0:44:22 > 0:44:26- It's very meticulous work - but the results are rewarding.
0:44:27 > 0:44:30- They can sometimes make - a substantial profit.
0:44:33 > 0:44:35- The size of this crystal...
0:44:36 > 0:44:40- ..and the fact it's set within - another crystal makes it valuable.
0:44:42 > 0:44:45- It's of a very high quality - and no imperfections.
0:44:50 > 0:44:52- It's nice to see Brandberg produce.
0:44:52 > 0:44:56- As our final sunrise - in the desert approaches...
0:44:56 > 0:44:58- ..the place lives up to its name.
0:44:59 > 0:45:02- Brandberg - Fire Mountain.
0:45:08 > 0:45:13- Before they relax, there is one - necessary task they must complete.
0:45:14 > 0:45:17- They must ensure - there are no unwelcome guests.
0:45:18 > 0:45:21- I can't remember - how many times I've been bitten.
0:45:21 > 0:45:23- It must be more than 100.
0:45:25 > 0:45:28- The worst thing is being bitten...
0:45:28 > 0:45:31- ..by the large black Parabuthus.
0:45:31 > 0:45:33- You're ill for three days.
0:45:33 > 0:45:35- You're ill for three days.- - Yes, skerpioen!
0:45:36 > 0:45:39- The word is the same in Afrikaans.
0:45:41 > 0:45:44- If you think I'm looking nervous, - I've good reason.
0:45:45 > 0:45:49- For me, the creature itself - is as vile as the sound of its name!
0:45:50 > 0:45:54- But eventually it's safe - to light the fire...
0:45:54 > 0:45:58- ..prepare the meat - and enjoy the barbecue.
0:46:02 > 0:46:04- They say - they live a simple life here...
0:46:04 > 0:46:09- ..but having seen their devotion - to the land and to one another...
0:46:09 > 0:46:12- ..I believe - they lead a privileged life.
0:46:12 > 0:46:15- Dankie, Martha.
0:46:15 > 0:46:17- SHE SPEAKS AFRIKAANS
0:46:18 > 0:46:22- Martha has just said, "Welcome to - the hotel of 1,000 stars."
0:46:24 > 0:46:29- Anybody who's ever crossed the Namib - will never forget the experience.
0:46:33 > 0:46:38- The striking landscape, the beauty - of its wildlife, and the people...
0:46:38 > 0:46:42- ..are among some of the warmest, - most welcoming people...
0:46:43 > 0:46:45- ..I've ever met.
0:46:47 > 0:46:52- I've learnt that no matter how - strong and experienced you may be...
0:46:52 > 0:46:56- ..you'll never ever - win the battle over nature.
0:47:00 > 0:47:04- But with respect, you can - survive its extreme conditions.
0:47:11 > 0:47:13- I've experienced pure silence here.
0:47:13 > 0:47:17- The journey - has certainly enriched my life.
0:47:17 > 0:47:23- For me, the Namib Desert is - somewhere where the soul can rest.
0:47:59 > 0:48:01- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:48:01 > 0:48:02- .