0:00:00 > 0:00:00- Subtitles
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0:00:07 > 0:00:13- There's no better way of - viewing the coastline than by air.
0:00:13 > 0:00:16- During this series - of Arfordir Cymru...
0:00:16 > 0:00:20- ..we'll be exploring the place - names, beaches and headlands...
0:00:20 > 0:00:23- ..along the coast - of Wales's largest island.
0:00:23 > 0:00:27- Looking down on the landscape, - it's easy to see...
0:00:27 > 0:00:30- ..why Goronwy Owen - referred to this island as...
0:00:31 > 0:00:34- .."The abundant Mon - with its wealth of beaches."
0:00:47 > 0:00:51- The meaning of place names along - the Welsh coastline are a secret.
0:00:51 > 0:00:56- The Welsh "Mon" is an archaic name, - originating from the pre-Celtic era.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59- Its meaning has been lost - in the mists of time.
0:00:59 > 0:01:03- It's far easier to explain - the derivation of "Anglesey"...
0:01:04 > 0:01:07- ..which is a combination - of the first name, Ongull, and ey...
0:01:07 > 0:01:11- ..which denotes an island, - like Orkney and Bardsey.
0:01:11 > 0:01:16- The name means Ongull's Island, - but it's not known who Ongull was.
0:01:16 > 0:01:20- At times, searching for derivations - feels like chasing shadows.
0:01:26 > 0:01:28- That is the aim of this series.
0:01:28 > 0:01:33- We'll explore the Anglesey coast, - studying the place names...
0:01:33 > 0:01:38- ..of coves, beaches, rocks, - inlets and even rock pools.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49- We'll unlock the island's history - by exploring the names...
0:01:49 > 0:01:51- ..that are under threat.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55- I'll meet local people - who inhabit the coastline...
0:01:56 > 0:01:59- ..and record these names - before they disappear.
0:02:00 > 0:02:02- I'll travel by land, sea and air...
0:02:02 > 0:02:05- ..and I'll also - be getting my hands dirty.
0:02:05 > 0:02:07- Quite literally.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30- This programme - takes us along the eastern coast...
0:02:30 > 0:02:35- ..from Puffin Island to Dulas Island - and further north to Dulas Bay.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47- Penmon, - at the furthest tip of Anglesey...
0:02:48 > 0:02:50- ..is an easy name to explain.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52- It means the tip of Anglesey.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55- Certain ships have left their mark - on place names.
0:02:56 > 0:02:59- Tourism and immigration are - the biggest influences nowadays...
0:03:00 > 0:03:04- ..as language continues to evolve - due to the impact of culture...
0:03:05 > 0:03:08- ..industry - and different nationalities.
0:03:16 > 0:03:20- 750 names have been recorded - along the Anglesey coastline.
0:03:20 > 0:03:25- But there are hundreds of names that - are known only by word of mouth.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28- Those words - are slowly disappearing.
0:03:28 > 0:03:31- It's hard not to feel sad - when place names vanish...
0:03:32 > 0:03:34- ..or get lost in translation.
0:03:36 > 0:03:39- Nothing is ever black and white.
0:03:39 > 0:03:42- The English name for Traeth Coch - is Red Wharf.
0:03:42 > 0:03:47- The earliest record of it - is Red Wharth, which means beach.
0:03:47 > 0:03:52- Although the Welsh and English - meanings of places differ...
0:03:52 > 0:03:57- ..this is a direct translation from - the original Welsh name for it.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04- Whilst searching for - the original place names...
0:04:04 > 0:04:07- ..I must consult old documents.
0:04:07 > 0:04:12- One important source is Lewis - Morris's 18th century sea charts.
0:04:12 > 0:04:18- I've come to learn more from - Robin Evans, a maritime historian.
0:04:18 > 0:04:21- There's a slight problem - in that the names of fields...
0:04:22 > 0:04:26- ..and farm holdings that appear - in landowners' documents...
0:04:26 > 0:04:29- ..differ from their coastal names.
0:04:30 > 0:04:36- Lewis Morris's work is invaluable - in terms of detailing the era.
0:04:36 > 0:04:41- We must remember that recording - place names wasn't his intention...
0:04:41 > 0:04:44- ..although it's advantageous for us.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- In terms of the era in which - he lived, maps were inaccurate.
0:04:49 > 0:04:54- He applied for funding from - the Admiralty but was turned down.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58- In the case of Anglesey names, - he took it upon himself...
0:04:58 > 0:05:03- ..to try and ensure...
0:05:03 > 0:05:07- ..that he presented some kind of map - of the entire coast...
0:05:08 > 0:05:11- ..which would be useful for sailors.
0:05:11 > 0:05:16- We regard him as a literary man - and a scribe...
0:05:16 > 0:05:21- ..but perhaps many are unaware of - his major contribution in this area.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- In fact, we could even argue - that we, as a nation...
0:05:24 > 0:05:28- ..have forgotten about - his prowess as a cartographer.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31- Those whose interests lie - in the world of maps...
0:05:32 > 0:05:36- ..believe he is one of the earliest - and most important cartographers...
0:05:36 > 0:05:39- ..in spite of being an amateur.
0:05:39 > 0:05:44- He initially encountered problems - because he didn't have a boat.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47- I don't know - how he overcame that problem.
0:05:47 > 0:05:51- Much of his mapping - was done on land.
0:05:52 > 0:05:57- He had to rely on local residents - for information, to a large extent.
0:05:57 > 0:06:01- It is very detailed - and he warns of hidden depths...
0:06:01 > 0:06:06- ..of treacherous waters - and the nature of the currents.
0:06:06 > 0:06:10- Any important information - on the maps is clearly visible.
0:06:11 > 0:06:15- There must be markers on land - for sailors to know their location.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17- Moorings and channels...
0:06:18 > 0:06:20- ..must also be noted.
0:06:20 > 0:06:24- There are amusing place names - on this map of Red Wharf.
0:06:26 > 0:06:30- We're more or less here, - at Porth Llongdy...
0:06:30 > 0:06:35- ..the archaic name that was recorded - before it was known as Red Wharf.
0:06:35 > 0:06:39- There's a place called Uffern - (Hell) on the way to Pentraeth.
0:06:40 > 0:06:41- I'm not suggesting a thing!
0:06:42 > 0:06:47- Y Gedowrach is an interesting name. - It's located beneath Arthur's Table.
0:06:47 > 0:06:53- It's an abbreviation of a more - unsavoury name - Witch's Pubes.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56- The name can also mean - a type of mushroom...
0:06:56 > 0:07:02- ..and a very poisonous plant - like deadly nightshade.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- I wonder if the name...
0:07:05 > 0:07:10- ..was linked to the fact there were - witches here in Llanddona.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13- I asked around but drew a blank.
0:07:13 > 0:07:17- I wonder if they used - deadly nightshade in some way?
0:07:17 > 0:07:19- I've no idea - why Lewis Morris has noted it.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23- It shows - the accuracy of his mapping too.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27- It serves - as an important historical document.
0:07:27 > 0:07:30- As historians, - we can refer to these maps...
0:07:31 > 0:07:35- ..for various information - or clues about certain things.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39- In some places, he explains - the names' derivations...
0:07:39 > 0:07:42- ..although they are quite rare.
0:07:42 > 0:07:44- What we have here...
0:07:45 > 0:07:50- ..in terms of place names, are names - the native dwellers would've used...
0:07:50 > 0:07:54- ..rather than the visitors.
0:07:54 > 0:07:57- He claims he's the first person - to record the names accurately.
0:07:58 > 0:08:02- I think perhaps - he's being self-important...
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- ..since he was the only one - who undertook the task.
0:08:11 > 0:08:16- Benllech and Moelfre are villages - situated on the eastern coast.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24- Benllech is known - for its extensive sandy beach.
0:08:24 > 0:08:29- Penllech is the name given to a rock - placed on top of a burial chamber...
0:08:29 > 0:08:32- ..as is evident from this example.
0:08:32 > 0:08:35- A tomb similar to this - also stood in Benllech.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- It was that hefty rock...
0:08:38 > 0:08:41- ..which gave the village its name.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48- Three miles north is - the maritime village of Moelfre...
0:08:49 > 0:08:51- ..which is a tourist trap in summer.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- But in adverse weather, - it's easy to see...
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- ..how it's name was derived - from Moel (Barren) and Bre (Hill).
0:08:58 > 0:09:00- Barren Hill.
0:09:03 > 0:09:06- Many names - are derived from past customs.
0:09:06 > 0:09:11- Ponc Sincrig is the local name given - for this tump near Moelfre beach.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14- Singrig, derived from Eisingrig...
0:09:14 > 0:09:18- ..is a common name with dozens - of examples around Wales.
0:09:25 > 0:09:29- Ian, you work for - the Anglesey County Council Museum.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31- That tray looks very unusual.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33- What exactly is it?
0:09:34 > 0:09:38- This is a tool used to separate - the wheat from the chaff.
0:09:38 > 0:09:40- In the flour-making process?
0:09:41 > 0:09:43- Yes, to make flour.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47- You put the grain in it, - toss it into the air...
0:09:47 > 0:09:50- ..and the wind - blew the chaff to one side.
0:09:51 > 0:09:53- The chaff is the waste.
0:09:53 > 0:09:57- The husks, insects and dust - - all the things you want to discard.
0:09:57 > 0:09:59- Chaff one side, wheat on the other.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03- Why would that process - be associated with this area?
0:10:03 > 0:10:09- The hill is known locally - as Allt Ffatri.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13- At one time, there was a woollen - mill and a flour mill here...
0:10:13 > 0:10:17- ..both making use - of the river and the stream.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20- They used a water wheel - to grind the wheat.
0:10:20 > 0:10:24- After separating the wheat, - they'd take it to the machine...
0:10:24 > 0:10:26- ..and grind it into flour.
0:10:26 > 0:10:28- ..and grind it into flour.- - They would've used that locally?
0:10:29 > 0:10:33- Yes, these would've been used up - until the Industrial Revolution...
0:10:33 > 0:10:37- ..when they were developing mills - to use machinery...
0:10:37 > 0:10:40- ..instead of manual labour.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- Is this the only tool - they would've used?
0:10:44 > 0:10:48- They also used a canvas, - similar to a large sheet...
0:10:48 > 0:10:50- ..which two people handled.
0:10:50 > 0:10:55- So, very simply, they would - toss the wheat into the air...
0:10:55 > 0:11:01- ..to separate - the wheat from the chaff.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04- Have you done this before?
0:11:04 > 0:11:07- No, never. - There are supermarkets nowadays!
0:11:08 > 0:11:10- How high are you meant to throw it?
0:11:11 > 0:11:13- Let's find out.
0:11:13 > 0:11:15- A word of warning before we start.
0:11:15 > 0:11:17- The wind in this area...
0:11:18 > 0:11:21- ..usually blows - in that direction into the sea...
0:11:22 > 0:11:25- ..but today, it's blowing inwards - from the sea.
0:11:25 > 0:11:27- I'm not sure where it will end up.
0:11:27 > 0:11:30- Shall we do it - on the count of three?
0:11:30 > 0:11:32- One, two, three.
0:11:33 > 0:11:36- Do you think - they wore protective glasses?
0:11:36 > 0:11:37- Yes.
0:11:37 > 0:11:41- Yes.- - So the chaff is going one way...
0:11:43 > 0:11:45- Look! Careful!
0:11:46 > 0:11:48- The wheat falls back into the sack.
0:11:48 > 0:11:50- Is that it, Ian?
0:11:50 > 0:11:52- Almost.
0:11:53 > 0:11:54- Yes, it's clean.
0:11:54 > 0:11:55- Yes, it's clean.- - Perfect.
0:11:56 > 0:11:58- It's ready to make flour.
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- So the chaff falls to the floor.
0:12:01 > 0:12:07- Eisingrig is a combination - of eisin (chaff) and crig (tump).
0:12:09 > 0:12:13- So, a tump where - mounds of chaff were left behind.
0:12:14 > 0:12:16- Ponc Sincrig.
0:12:17 > 0:12:19- Right, let's go and make some flour.
0:12:29 > 0:12:29- .
0:12:31 > 0:12:31- Subtitles
0:12:31 > 0:12:33- Subtitles- - Subtitles
0:12:35 > 0:12:37- In this series...
0:12:37 > 0:12:41- ..we discover the secrets behind - the names of rocks and beaches...
0:12:41 > 0:12:45- ..along the 125 miles - of the Anglesey coastline.
0:12:46 > 0:12:50- Coastal names have been derived - from many influences over the years.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53- Shipwrecks were a prominent factor.
0:12:56 > 0:13:00- The village of Moelfre - is famous for its lifeboat.
0:13:00 > 0:13:02- Kiwi is the latest addition.
0:13:02 > 0:13:07- It's 16 metres long - and travels at a speed of 25 knots.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11- It's equipped - with all the latest safety features.
0:13:11 > 0:13:13- I'm joining the crew...
0:13:14 > 0:13:17- ..as they put the new boat - through its paces.
0:13:37 > 0:13:42- The people who founded - the Moelfre RNLI back in 1830...
0:13:42 > 0:13:46- ..wouldn't believe - the sheer power of this new boat.
0:13:47 > 0:13:49- It's remarkable.
0:13:52 > 0:13:56- The lifeboat has played an important - role in the region's history.
0:13:57 > 0:14:02- If the wind blows in a northerly - direction, it becomes treacherous.
0:14:02 > 0:14:06- Some of the ships that have - run aground over the centuries...
0:14:06 > 0:14:09- ..have left their names - along the coast.
0:14:19 > 0:14:25- There is no official name for - this inlet behind me on any map...
0:14:25 > 0:14:29- ..but there were two names - given to it locally...
0:14:29 > 0:14:31- ..the oldest of which - was Porth Llestar.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34- Llestar - is an archaic Welsh word for ship.
0:14:35 > 0:14:40- Just as a vessel refers to a ship - and a piece of pottery in English...
0:14:40 > 0:14:44- ..the same is true in Welsh.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47- Porth Jewess - is a more recent name for it.
0:14:47 > 0:14:50- We're certain - it takes its name from a ship.
0:14:51 > 0:14:55- Although I asked around, - no-one knew the full story.
0:14:55 > 0:14:57- After a little research...
0:14:57 > 0:15:00- ..I found a record - of a small ship called Jewess...
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- ..that was on its way from Liverpool - to Ireland when it sunk in 1907.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12- There were five crewmen on board - and each of them survived.
0:15:12 > 0:15:14- The ship ran aground here.
0:15:14 > 0:15:17- It's obvious - from official records...
0:15:17 > 0:15:20- ..that efforts - had been made to rescue it.
0:15:20 > 0:15:24- "The starboard side of bottom - has been chaffed almost out.
0:15:24 > 0:15:26- "Her rudders washed off.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30- "The vessel's full of water and it - is feared she will become a wreck.
0:15:30 > 0:15:33- "Prompt measures should be taken - as if the wind veers to the north...
0:15:33 > 0:15:37- "..the vessel would hold together - but a very short time."
0:15:38 > 0:15:42- We don't know if efforts to - save the Jewess were successful...
0:15:42 > 0:15:46- ..or did she leave more than just - her name on this area of the coast?
0:15:47 > 0:15:51- It doesn't matter, since - Porth Llestar and Porth Jewess...
0:15:51 > 0:15:54- ..have been replaced - by the name of another ship...
0:15:54 > 0:15:57- ..that ran aground - in the exact same spot.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08- It is on these rocks - that the Hindlea was wrecked.
0:16:08 > 0:16:13- On 23 October 1959, - it was sheltering in Dulas Bay...
0:16:13 > 0:16:16- ..from - the strong south-easterly winds.
0:16:16 > 0:16:20- A few days later, the wind changed - to a northerly direction.
0:16:21 > 0:16:25- The Hindlea was tossed and spun - with her back to shore...
0:16:25 > 0:16:30- ..in gale-force winds that, - at times, reached more than 100mph.
0:16:32 > 0:16:37- The Coast Guard was alerted, but the - Moelfre lifeboat was unavailable.
0:16:37 > 0:16:41- In its place - came the Edmond and Mary Robinson...
0:16:41 > 0:16:45- ..an old lifeboat - that had seen much better days.
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- By the time the lifeboat arrived...
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- ..the Hindlea - was a mere 200 yards from land.
0:16:52 > 0:16:56- The lifeboat - approached it numerous times...
0:16:56 > 0:16:59- ..sometimes crashing against it.
0:16:59 > 0:17:03- The lifeboat was sometimes higher, - sometimes lower than the ship.
0:17:03 > 0:17:08- But after a little perseverance, - they came level with one another...
0:17:08 > 0:17:10- ..and each of the Hindlea crewmen...
0:17:10 > 0:17:15- ..jumped onto the lifeboat - and eight lives were spared.
0:17:16 > 0:17:21- What we have, therefore, - is a memorial to three shipwrecks.
0:17:21 > 0:17:26- Porth Llestar commemorates - the wreck of an anonymous ship.
0:17:26 > 0:17:29- Porth Jewess - commemorates the Jewess in 1907.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- But these days, the word "porth" - has disappeared too.
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- It's known quite simply - as the Hindlea...
0:17:36 > 0:17:40- ..a ship which left behind - its skeleton and name.
0:17:40 > 0:17:42- Every ship - that has come to shore...
0:17:42 > 0:17:45- ..has replaced - the name of the ship before it.
0:17:51 > 0:17:54- Naming coastal areas after ships - is commonplace.
0:17:55 > 0:17:59- There are many examples in Wales - and further afield.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- This memorial stone - commemorates the 450 people...
0:18:03 > 0:18:07- ..who lost their lives when the - Royal Charter ran aground in 1859.
0:18:08 > 0:18:11- Porth Helaeth - is the name given to the beach.
0:18:12 > 0:18:16- But that name has since been - replaced by Royal Charter Beach.
0:18:34 > 0:18:39- Further north, we come face to face - with another piece of history.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43- It's time for us to step into a ship - and step back in time.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48- This cove behind me...
0:18:49 > 0:18:53- ..which isn't listed on official - maps, is called Porth Cwrwg.
0:18:53 > 0:18:57- "Cwrwg" lends its name - to other places on Anglesey.
0:18:57 > 0:18:59- I think I'm right in saying...
0:18:59 > 0:19:03- ..that it doesn't happen - elsewhere on the Welsh coast.
0:19:03 > 0:19:08- Cwrwg (coracle) conjures up images - of little saucers floating.
0:19:08 > 0:19:11- But this is a sea coracle. - Right, girls!
0:19:11 > 0:19:14- One! Two!
0:19:14 > 0:19:16- One! Two!
0:19:16 > 0:19:18- This is the crew.
0:19:21 > 0:19:24- Have you ever rowed a cow before?
0:19:26 > 0:19:27- You call the rhythm, Buddug.
0:19:27 > 0:19:29- You call the rhythm, Buddug.- - One!
0:19:29 > 0:19:32- Porth Cwrwg echoes a time...
0:19:32 > 0:19:36- ..when boats like these - were common along the coast.
0:19:36 > 0:19:42- It's a simple construction made from - willow basketweave and cowhide.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- You live on a farm, Manon. - What breed of cattle has been used?
0:19:48 > 0:19:53- Look at the colour of their fur. - This is Limousin.
0:19:53 > 0:19:56- And Friesian at the front.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59- No, it's Charolais, not Limousin.
0:19:59 > 0:20:00- What did I say, Friesian?
0:20:00 > 0:20:02- What did I say, Friesian?- - They're black and white.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05- There's money to be made - from their hide.
0:20:06 > 0:20:09- Elliw could start - her own coracle business.
0:20:09 > 0:20:11- She'd persuade her father.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14- You'd weave cows together!
0:20:15 > 0:20:19- Though coracles are still used - in Northern Ireland...
0:20:19 > 0:20:23- ..very little is known about - the shape of ancient coracles...
0:20:24 > 0:20:28- ..since they were made from - organic materials which decayed.
0:20:28 > 0:20:31- Reference is made to them - in the Mabinogion.
0:20:31 > 0:20:35- Julius Caesar refers to them - sailing the Atlantic.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39- They certainly represent - the earliest forms of boat building.
0:20:39 > 0:20:44- Drawings of them have been found - in caves from the Mesolithic Era...
0:20:44 > 0:20:46- ..8,000 years ago.
0:20:50 > 0:20:53- If we lose names like Porth Cwrwg...
0:20:53 > 0:20:56- ..we will also lose - valuable evidence...
0:20:56 > 0:20:59- ..about our ancient way of life.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05- As someone who's used to - messing around with boats...
0:21:05 > 0:21:09- ..I've been looking forward - to this outing.
0:21:09 > 0:21:11- I have to say...
0:21:11 > 0:21:14- ..it's long and narrow - and feels a little unstable...
0:21:15 > 0:21:19- ..so I'm afraid of capsizing, but - the girls are giving it some welly.
0:21:20 > 0:21:22- It's fast enough. Off we go!
0:21:33 > 0:21:39- Further along, past Lligwy Beach - and its ancient fishing trap...
0:21:39 > 0:21:43- ..are some of the hidden wonders - of the coastline.
0:21:43 > 0:21:46- Not everyone is privy - to the beauty of Traeth Yr Ora.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50- The derivation of its name - is still a mystery.
0:21:50 > 0:21:54- Thomas Roberts, the authority - on Anglesey's place names...
0:21:54 > 0:21:56- ..suggests - it was the name of a ship.
0:21:57 > 0:22:00- Aurora is a common name - for a ship...
0:22:00 > 0:22:05- ..but we've failed to find - any evidence of a shipwreck here.
0:22:05 > 0:22:07- The name, - just as the beach itself...
0:22:08 > 0:22:10- ..remains a secret.
0:22:16 > 0:22:20- Another secret nestling - in Dulas Bay is Ynys Fechan...
0:22:20 > 0:22:22- ..which is only visible in low tide.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27- No, I'm not walking on water...
0:22:28 > 0:22:31- ..I'm standing on Prisoners' Island.
0:22:31 > 0:22:33- No-one knows - for certain its origin...
0:22:34 > 0:22:37- ..but it's believed - that in olden days...
0:22:37 > 0:22:40- ..they shackled criminals - to this rock beneath me.
0:22:41 > 0:22:44- They waited for the tide to rise, - as it's doing now...
0:22:45 > 0:22:48- ..until it reached - their chests and their necks...
0:22:48 > 0:22:53- ..until it covered - their heads and drowned them.
0:22:53 > 0:22:55- I can't substantiate that story...
0:22:56 > 0:23:00- ..but one thing's for sure, I don't - want to hang around here too long!
0:23:28 > 0:23:30- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:30 > 0:23:31- .