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0:00:06 > 0:00:09- This series guides you - along the Anglesey coast...
0:00:10 > 0:00:13- ..exploring the names - of beaches, headlands and rocks.
0:00:14 > 0:00:18- We discover how the names - hold the key to our history.
0:00:18 > 0:00:23- We'll also record the names of those - places known only by word of mouth.
0:00:23 > 0:00:25- Names change and evolve.
0:00:25 > 0:00:30- Nothing is ever stable - where the land meets the sea.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33- In the words of Rolant o Fon...
0:00:33 > 0:00:38- .."The sea breaks into silver - threads on a cold bed of rocks."
0:00:48 > 0:00:52- In this programme, we leave - the tranquillity of Dulas Bay...
0:00:52 > 0:00:55- ..and head to the post-industrial - town of Amlwch.
0:00:55 > 0:00:58- At the peak of the sailboat era...
0:00:58 > 0:01:01- ..there were so many of them - in Dulas Bay...
0:01:01 > 0:01:06- ..you could run across the bay from - boat to boat without getting wet.
0:01:06 > 0:01:11- Boats may have changed with time but - the sea's nature remains unchanged.
0:01:13 > 0:01:17- This area has seen many shipwrecks - over the centuries...
0:01:17 > 0:01:20- ..and later we'll visit a harbour...
0:01:20 > 0:01:24- ..where the effect of that has left - its mark on coastal place names.
0:01:30 > 0:01:33- Prominent people - have also left their mark here.
0:01:33 > 0:01:37- We're near the site - where Llys Dulas mansion once stood.
0:01:37 > 0:01:41- An opulent Gothic structure - that was built in 1856.
0:01:41 > 0:01:46- The old mansion has been replaced - by a brand new structure.
0:01:46 > 0:01:49- Beneath the mansion - is a famous rock.
0:01:50 > 0:01:53- Carreg Y Ledi - overlooks a portion of coastline...
0:01:54 > 0:01:59- ..which, at high tide, resembles - a sunken natural swimming pool.
0:01:59 > 0:02:02- Stairs have been - carved into the stone...
0:02:03 > 0:02:05- ..along with an iron handrail.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08- It was to help - the residents of Llys Dulas...
0:02:08 > 0:02:11- ..climb in and out - of the sea whilst swimming.
0:02:16 > 0:02:20- Carreg Y Ledi - is dedicated to Lady Dinorben...
0:02:21 > 0:02:24- ..who lived at Llys Dulas - in the 19th century.
0:02:25 > 0:02:28- She must've been - a woman of great importance...
0:02:28 > 0:02:32- ..to have had part of the coastline - adapted especially for her.
0:02:43 > 0:02:48- Not everyone was lucky enough to - spend time sunbathing and swimming.
0:02:48 > 0:02:52- In poorer times, crab fishing - was an important pursuit.
0:02:52 > 0:02:57- A stone's throw from Carreg Y Ledi - is Trwyn Cwmrwd...
0:02:57 > 0:03:01- ..where Owie Jones - has spent his life crab fishing.
0:03:01 > 0:03:05- He's given every crab hole a name - and has a few amusing expressions.
0:03:05 > 0:03:10- When there are shoots in the hollows - there'll be crabs in the holes.
0:03:10 > 0:03:15- From March to April, - the corn seeds are sown.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17- You're talking about corn shoots?
0:03:17 > 0:03:19- You're talking about corn shoots?- - Yes, that's right.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23- When there are shoots in the hollows - there'll be crabs in the holes.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26- Let's go and search for the crabs.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29- Yes, let's go over there.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32- You must know every nook and cranny.
0:03:32 > 0:03:34- You must know every nook and cranny.- - I've spent enough time here.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37- You've even named these crab holes.
0:03:38 > 0:03:41- This is Twll Tan Jos - and that's Twll Defi Jos over there.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45- Why have you personalized the names?
0:03:45 > 0:03:47- Did the men claim them as their own?
0:03:47 > 0:03:50- Did the men claim them as their own?- - They must've caught a good yield.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54- The crab catchers of the past - may have been commemorated...
0:03:54 > 0:03:57- ..but I'm having no such luck, - so I'll leave it to the master.
0:04:01 > 0:04:03- Look!
0:04:03 > 0:04:05- It's a little one. It's a female.
0:04:06 > 0:04:08- Argh, it's bitten me!
0:04:11 > 0:04:14- I had no idea what I was doing...
0:04:14 > 0:04:17- ..but Owie persevered - in Tyllau Clytiau Gleision...
0:04:18 > 0:04:22- ..Tyllau'r Gwely, Twll Hugh Phipps - and Twll Richard Castle.
0:04:22 > 0:04:24- His perseverance - paid off in the end.
0:04:25 > 0:04:27- That's a good one, Owie.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30- Yes, this is a great one.
0:04:30 > 0:04:31- Is it male or female?
0:04:31 > 0:04:33- Is it male or female?- - Male.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36- That'll do for a hearty meal.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42- Here we go, - the fruits of our labour.
0:04:42 > 0:04:44- This is one for the table.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48- These crab holes - and their names might be old...
0:04:48 > 0:04:51- ..but they still provide - a good yield.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54- I'll put it in the sack - like a good boy, shall I?
0:04:56 > 0:04:59- Come on, Owie, - let's go and put it in the saucepan.
0:04:59 > 0:05:01- We'll get some good ones here.
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- Let's look for more.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21- A stone's throw away, in the heart - of the bay, is Dulas Island...
0:05:21 > 0:05:24- ..a prominent feature - of the coastline.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29- The Llys Dulas family left its mark - here in the form of this tower...
0:05:29 > 0:05:32- ..erected by - Colonel James Hughes in 1824...
0:05:33 > 0:05:36- ..to provide shelter - for ships that came ashore.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- I doubt - those who were stranded here...
0:06:03 > 0:06:06- ..received a warmer welcome - than this from the seagulls!
0:06:07 > 0:06:11- The tower was equipped - with firewood, blankets...
0:06:11 > 0:06:13- ..matches and food.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16- But, according to records - and hearsay...
0:06:17 > 0:06:22- ..locals rowed to the island, swiped - the contents and left it bare.
0:06:26 > 0:06:31- The common name for rocks that - rise to the surface in mid-tide...
0:06:32 > 0:06:35- ..is "carreg hanner trai," - which can be treacherous.
0:06:36 > 0:06:41- Before GPS, they were very useful - for warning sailors where to avoid.
0:06:46 > 0:06:49- When the sea - was a source of sustenance...
0:06:49 > 0:06:53- ..people used boats to lower lobster - cages and nets into the sea...
0:06:53 > 0:06:57- ..so every nook and cranny - needed to be accounted for...
0:06:57 > 0:06:59- ..to focus on the area in detail.
0:07:00 > 0:07:03- But since we're now using the sea - for leisure pursuits...
0:07:04 > 0:07:06- ..we don't need such details.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09- These names are slowly disappearing.
0:07:09 > 0:07:13- A plethora of them have - never been officially documented.
0:07:13 > 0:07:17- The next peninsula - we're approaching is a good example.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22- Halfway between Dulas and Amlwch...
0:07:22 > 0:07:26- ..are the most dangerous - of Anglesey's headlands.
0:07:26 > 0:07:30- This is Lynas Point.
0:07:30 > 0:07:34- The sea can be very turbulent - around the peninsula.
0:07:34 > 0:07:38- A lighthouse of some sort - has stood here since 1779.
0:07:48 > 0:07:51- A strong tide surrounds Lynas Point.
0:07:51 > 0:07:55- This is the location - of two important rocks for sailors.
0:07:55 > 0:07:57- Cyllell Lanw and Cyllell Drai.
0:07:57 > 0:08:02- The current encircles Anglesey like - clockwork when the tide comes in.
0:08:02 > 0:08:06- That's when the tide - hits Cyllell Lanw.
0:08:06 > 0:08:11- When the tide goes out in the other - direction, it hits Cyllell Drai.
0:08:24 > 0:08:29- But it's not only the names - found on maps and charts that exist.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32- Names have been coined - by local people.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36- By speaking to the residents - of Llaneilian, I was surprised...
0:08:37 > 0:08:40- ..by the wealth - and number of names available.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58- When I speak to people, - I record every conversation...
0:08:58 > 0:09:03- ..so that I have an aural record - of each name to avoid any mistakes.
0:09:03 > 0:09:07- People have been kind enough - to let me borrow personal maps...
0:09:07 > 0:09:11- ..that they've drawn themselves - of their locality...
0:09:11 > 0:09:15- ..with the names - of beaches, headlands and rocks.
0:09:15 > 0:09:18- I'm trying to collate - all that information.
0:09:18 > 0:09:23- In some places, there are - so many word-of-mouth names...
0:09:23 > 0:09:25- ..I've had to draw my own map.
0:09:25 > 0:09:31- On this map of Porth Eilian, only - two miles of coastline exists...
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- ..but there are more - than 40 names on the chart.
0:09:37 > 0:09:41- This map is a collection - of names found on maps...
0:09:41 > 0:09:44- ..as well as names given to me - by Rolant Williams...
0:09:44 > 0:09:46- ..who's lived here all his life.
0:09:47 > 0:09:50- Through plotting these names - on a map...
0:09:50 > 0:09:53- ..it's possible to see - how many of them there are.
0:09:54 > 0:09:57- Many of them have - never been officially documented.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10- Bedwyr Lewis Jones is known - for his interest in place names.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13- I came across something by him...
0:10:13 > 0:10:17- ..in a book about the Anglesey - National Eisteddfod in 1983.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20- This is what he has to say - about place names.
0:10:21 > 0:10:23- There's no better way - of expressing it.
0:10:23 > 0:10:26- "Once the stability - has been ruined...
0:10:26 > 0:10:28- "..their usage declines.
0:10:28 > 0:10:31- "New, foreign names replace them...
0:10:31 > 0:10:35- "..along with charts for sailors - and guidebooks for climbers.
0:10:35 > 0:10:38- "The old names are lost forever.
0:10:38 > 0:10:42- "By losing them, we lose our grip - on our native territory.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46- "We also lose important evidence - about our old way of life.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49- "We'll become strangers - in our own land."
0:10:52 > 0:10:53- .
0:10:56 > 0:10:56- Subtitles
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0:11:15 > 0:11:20- Our search for the derivation - of Anglesey's place names continues.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23- We head towards Amlwch, - past Safn Ci...
0:11:23 > 0:11:29- ..a name referring to the shape - of a dog with an open mouth.
0:11:32 > 0:11:37- Further on, we pass by a portion - of headland known as Llam Carw.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41- I've tried in vain - to find an explanation...
0:11:42 > 0:11:44- ..for the name, Llam Carw...
0:11:44 > 0:11:46- ..but I came across an article...
0:11:47 > 0:11:50- ..in a community paper - called Yr Arwydd...
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- ..from September 1989.
0:11:54 > 0:11:58- The article mentions Anglesey's - annual deer hunt which took place...
0:11:58 > 0:12:00- ..from 1850 onwards.
0:12:01 > 0:12:05- It refers to a deer - with a very unusual name. Majuba.
0:12:06 > 0:12:09- It was driven out of Rhos Goch, - which is seven miles away.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14- Hearsay suggests Majuba ran all - the way from Rhos Goch to here...
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- ..jumped into the sea - and swam to Amlwch...
0:12:18 > 0:12:20- ..to try and escape.
0:12:20 > 0:12:24- The name, Llam Carw, might be - associated with the deer hunt...
0:12:24 > 0:12:29- ..but it doesn't - specifically refer to this deer.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33- Majuba fled in 1903...
0:12:33 > 0:12:39- ..but the name is included - on the Ordnance Survey map of 1830.
0:12:50 > 0:12:54- Beneath the peninsula - is this cave called Ogo Llam Carw.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03- Traces of copper - can be seen clearly...
0:13:03 > 0:13:06- ..in the grooves of these rocks.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- This mineral - transformed Amlwch's history...
0:13:10 > 0:13:13- ..from the 18th century onwards.
0:13:17 > 0:13:21- When Lewis Morris - was compiling charts in the 1740s...
0:13:21 > 0:13:25- ..he deemed Amlwch - too insignificant to map in detail.
0:13:25 > 0:13:30- 20 years later, copper was - rediscovered in Parys mountain...
0:13:30 > 0:13:32- ..and Amlwch was transformed.
0:13:36 > 0:13:41- In its heyday, Amlwch port served - the world's largest copper mines.
0:13:41 > 0:13:44- Amlwch grew - from being a fishing port...
0:13:44 > 0:13:46- ..to a boat-building centre.
0:13:47 > 0:13:52- Countless industries flourished - as a result and the population grew.
0:13:52 > 0:13:54- People came from far and wide.
0:13:54 > 0:13:56- Amlwch harbour is quieter nowadays.
0:13:57 > 0:14:01- Numerous fishing boats - and pleasure boats are moored here.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04- The names of some of the coves...
0:14:04 > 0:14:07- ..allude to a very different past.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11- Peter Williams has lived - and fished here all his life.
0:14:12 > 0:14:16- He's one of the last to know how - to make a traditional lobster cage.
0:14:16 > 0:14:21- I met him in the hope of collecting - more original place names.
0:14:21 > 0:14:26- I'd like to take a detailed look - at this part of the coast.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30- We called it Ynys Meri Jac - but I don't know who she was.
0:14:30 > 0:14:31- Was she a fisherman's lover?
0:14:31 > 0:14:33- Was she a fisherman's lover?- - She might well have been!
0:14:33 > 0:14:35- Who knows what went on there!
0:14:36 > 0:14:40- Fishermen used to fish - from the shore...
0:14:40 > 0:14:42- ..so it provided a great location.
0:14:42 > 0:14:44- Who would have used this name?
0:14:44 > 0:14:46- Who would have used this name?- - It's still used.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- We used to call that one - Ynys Joe Woodreef.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54- Joe Woodreef - had gone crab fishing one day...
0:14:54 > 0:14:58- ..and put his hand into a hole - and the crab clung onto it.
0:14:58 > 0:15:02- He apparently said, - "Come on, crab, let me go...
0:15:02 > 0:15:04- "..or we'll both drown here."
0:15:04 > 0:15:07- The tide was coming in, - so the story goes.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11- We come across Porth Llechrog - in that direction.
0:15:11 > 0:15:13- And there's Dakota Island.
0:15:14 > 0:15:18- The Dakota was the fastest ship - in the world at the time.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21- She was the Blue Ribband - of the Atlantic at one time.
0:15:22 > 0:15:25- But she didn't last very long. - She was a voodoo ship.
0:15:25 > 0:15:30- Something would - regularly break or blow up.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32- They never made - much money out of her.
0:15:33 > 0:15:36- She was out at sea in thick fog.
0:15:37 > 0:15:43- It was the wrong time - for her helm to break.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- She missed the island of Amlwch...
0:15:46 > 0:15:52- ..and headed to that island which - is named Dakota Island after her.
0:15:52 > 0:15:55- Was the rock - called something else beforehand?
0:15:55 > 0:15:59- I think it was called Ynys Costog.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01- As you veer towards Amlwch...
0:16:02 > 0:16:06- ..were there names - for all these different parts here?
0:16:07 > 0:16:08- Or were they unnamed?
0:16:09 > 0:16:12- Trwyn Penwaig isn't there any more.
0:16:12 > 0:16:15- The break has been built - on top of it.
0:16:15 > 0:16:17- It was popular for herring fishing.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19- It was popular for herring fishing.- - The fishing boats...
0:16:19 > 0:16:21- ..would gather the nets.
0:16:22 > 0:16:25- The tide - helped them bring the fish ashore...
0:16:26 > 0:16:31- ..so that they could be salted - and packaged before they rotted.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34- So when the tide's out, - you can reach here?
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- Yes, that's where the name, - Trwyn Penwaig, is derived from.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42- My father told me the boats - were laden with so much herring...
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- ..they had to tread carefully - to avoid capsizing the boat.
0:16:47 > 0:16:52- There were large mounds of herring - on board these boats.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55- The men smelt of fish - for a fortnight afterwards!
0:16:55 > 0:16:58- My grandmother - used to complain about that.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06- I've collected - a number of names from Peter.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09- Some refer to people, - others to industry...
0:17:10 > 0:17:12- ..and an intrepid adventure.
0:17:12 > 0:17:16- This is the dock - where ships were repaired.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20- The dock was built in a crevice - called Porth Cwch Y Brenin.
0:17:20 > 0:17:23- Aled Eames, - the maritime historian...
0:17:23 > 0:17:28- ..suggests the authorities' ship - was moored here to combat smuggling.
0:17:28 > 0:17:33- Smuggling was rife in the area - at the end of the 17th century.
0:17:33 > 0:17:37- The battle between the smugglers - and the state was fierce...
0:17:37 > 0:17:40- ..and the battlefield - was the open sea.
0:17:49 > 0:17:53- There's a lot of romance - associated with smuggling...
0:17:53 > 0:17:55- ..in folklore and fiction.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58- People's interest in smuggling...
0:17:58 > 0:18:02- ..are reflected in these - cigarette cards from the 1930s.
0:18:02 > 0:18:05- There were 50 of them to collect...
0:18:05 > 0:18:10- ..but the two which are of interest - to us are The Surprise...
0:18:10 > 0:18:13- ..showing the small boat - belonging to the Revenue...
0:18:13 > 0:18:18- ..which was used to chase smugglers - around coves and inlets.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21- And then there's this, - the Revenue Cutter...
0:18:21 > 0:18:24- ..which was a much larger ship - at sea.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28- From looking - at Porth Cwch Y Brenin...
0:18:28 > 0:18:32- ..it's much wider now - than it would've been years ago.
0:18:32 > 0:18:36- I assume the smaller boat - would've been moored here...
0:18:36 > 0:18:41- ..and the Revenue's larger, - armed-and-dangerous boat...
0:18:42 > 0:18:44- ..would be out on the open sea.
0:18:51 > 0:18:53- I'm on board the Olga...
0:18:54 > 0:18:57- ..to meet someone - with an avid interest in smuggling.
0:18:58 > 0:19:01- He also looks the part. Twm Elias.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05- If the Revenue had to acquire - large vessels like this...
0:19:05 > 0:19:09- ..smuggling must've been - a huge problem long ago.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12- It certainly was for the Crown.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- A quarter of the Crown's - possible revenue from tolls...
0:19:15 > 0:19:18- ..was lost due to smuggling.
0:19:18 > 0:19:23- What steps did they take? - We know they acquired bigger ships.
0:19:23 > 0:19:26- There were Coast Guards on land - keeping watch on shore...
0:19:27 > 0:19:30- ..and the Revenue's cutters - patrolled the waters...
0:19:31 > 0:19:33- ..and different ports.
0:19:33 > 0:19:38- They were independent bodies that - were commissioned and licensed...
0:19:38 > 0:19:40- ..to chase smugglers.
0:19:40 > 0:19:44- They were entitled to half the cargo - and the selling price of the boats.
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- The Crown - claimed half the cargo value...
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- ..and half - the selling price of the boat.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55- The company that owned the cutter - would get a percentage...
0:19:56 > 0:20:00- ..but it was the Crown - that claimed the highest percentage.
0:20:00 > 0:20:04- The term "a king's share" - comes from the smugglers' age.
0:20:04 > 0:20:06- What led to this situation?
0:20:06 > 0:20:10- Considering smuggling was rife...
0:20:10 > 0:20:13- ..and a quarter of - the Crown's revenue was lost...
0:20:14 > 0:20:16- ..what prompted the smuggling trade?
0:20:17 > 0:20:20- Back then, there was - no such thing as income tax...
0:20:20 > 0:20:25- ..so the Crown levied tolls - on all kinds of things.
0:20:25 > 0:20:30- Because goods were heavily taxed...
0:20:30 > 0:20:32- ..people wanted things cheaper.
0:20:33 > 0:20:35- Everyone loves a bargain!
0:20:35 > 0:20:41- The nobility still wanted - their brandies, tobacco...
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- ..tea and silks...
0:20:43 > 0:20:46- ..while ordinary folk wanted salt.
0:20:46 > 0:20:51- A very heavy toll - was levied on salt.
0:20:51 > 0:20:56- Before the advent of refrigerators - like we have today...
0:20:57 > 0:21:01- .it was the only way to preserve - bacon throughout winter...
0:21:01 > 0:21:06- ..salting herring on the coast - and butter throughout winter.
0:21:06 > 0:21:09- Salt was essential.
0:21:09 > 0:21:14- It was available in Ireland for - a penny a pound in the 18th century.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18- It was four pence a pound here - in Wales because of the toll.
0:21:18 > 0:21:23- So the men would sail to Ireland, - buy the salt for a penny a pound...
0:21:23 > 0:21:27- ..sail back with it illegally...
0:21:27 > 0:21:31- ..and then sell it for two pence - a pound, making 100% profit.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33- It was still - half its original price.
0:21:34 > 0:21:39- The ordinary folk wanted salt - and the nobility wanted spirits.
0:21:39 > 0:21:44- So the entire community - was going to benefit locally.
0:21:44 > 0:21:49- Is all this smuggling history and - names like Porth Cwch Y Brenin....
0:21:49 > 0:21:52- ..part of our heritage - that has been ignored?
0:21:52 > 0:21:54- Most certainly.
0:21:55 > 0:21:58- Smuggling - is part of Cornwall's heritage.
0:21:58 > 0:22:02- They have exhibitions - and museums dedicated to it.
0:22:02 > 0:22:07- The history generates a great deal - of revenue from tourism.
0:22:07 > 0:22:09- But here in Wales...
0:22:09 > 0:22:14- ..only a few articles - and a couple of books...
0:22:14 > 0:22:17- ..have been published - on the subject.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19- I think historians in Wales...
0:22:19 > 0:22:23- ..have been - far too respectable in their field.
0:22:23 > 0:22:28- They've ignored the fact that there - were criminals in our history...
0:22:28 > 0:22:32- ..though they - were fighting for social justice.
0:22:35 > 0:22:39- It's remarkable how many place names - along the coast...
0:22:39 > 0:22:42- ..derive from historical events.
0:22:42 > 0:22:46- By allowing the name, - Porth Cwch Y Brenin, to disappear...
0:22:46 > 0:22:48- ..we lose our understanding...
0:22:48 > 0:22:52- ..of the connection between Amlwch - and the golden era of smuggling.
0:22:52 > 0:22:54- If these names are lost...
0:22:55 > 0:22:58- ..there's a real risk - of us losing sight...
0:22:58 > 0:23:01- ..of where - we've come from as a nation.
0:23:01 > 0:23:05- If we want to keep them, we must - document them, retain them...
0:23:05 > 0:23:08- ..share them, - and more importantly...
0:23:08 > 0:23:13- ..we must hand them over - to the next generation.
0:23:28 > 0:23:30- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:23:30 > 0:23:31- .