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0:00:06 > 0:00:11- I'm on a tour of Anglesey, exploring - some of the names along its coast.
0:00:11 > 0:00:14- This episode - focuses on its western side.
0:00:14 > 0:00:18- The region is associated - with saints and villains.
0:00:18 > 0:00:23- The place names are testament - to the influences, old and new...
0:00:23 > 0:00:27- ..as the language - continues to ebb and flow.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43- Our journey - takes us from Rhosneigr...
0:00:43 > 0:00:48- ..along the western coast, past - Porth Cwyfan to Llanddwyn Island.
0:00:52 > 0:00:55- This area of Anglesey - is a surfing hot spot...
0:00:56 > 0:01:01- ..as south-westerly winds toss - large waves against the shoreline.
0:01:01 > 0:01:05- Years ago, a different crowd - flocked to the area.
0:01:05 > 0:01:09- They too made use of the waves, - but for very different reasons.
0:01:11 > 0:01:13- This is Traeth Crigyll...
0:01:14 > 0:01:16- ..near Rhosneigr.
0:01:16 > 0:01:19- The Welsh name Crigyll - means bay or cove.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23- This old map shows it's - a perfect, natural trap for ships.
0:01:23 > 0:01:27- Many a ship has met its fate here - over the years.
0:01:27 > 0:01:31- For a century, this area - was famous, or rather infamous...
0:01:32 > 0:01:36- ..for the actions of men - that were internationally known...
0:01:36 > 0:01:39- ..as Lladron Crigyll - (Thieves of Crigyll).
0:01:43 > 0:01:46- Actor John Glyn Owen - is a local man...
0:01:47 > 0:01:51- ..who's been brought up - on stories about these villains.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56- What's the story - behind Lladron Crigyll?
0:01:57 > 0:02:01- The Crigyll beach of the 18th - century was a very exciting place.
0:02:01 > 0:02:04- It's claimed that the thieves...
0:02:04 > 0:02:08- ..who looted the ships - that run aground here...
0:02:08 > 0:02:12- ..purposely planted lanterns - on the horns of cattle...
0:02:13 > 0:02:15- ..to attract ships to shore.
0:02:15 > 0:02:19- During that time, - it's also believed that mothers...
0:02:19 > 0:02:21- ..on putting - their children to bed...
0:02:22 > 0:02:25- ..encouraged them, - whilst saying their prayers...
0:02:25 > 0:02:29- ..to pray for a large ship - to turn up on the beach by morning.
0:02:30 > 0:02:32- We're talking about - an impoverished era.
0:02:33 > 0:02:35- And ships - were laden with all kinds of stuff.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39- Lewis Morris, - one of the Anglesey Morrises...
0:02:39 > 0:02:42- ..wrote a poem - damning these thieves.
0:02:42 > 0:02:44- There's a couplet which goes...
0:02:45 > 0:02:50- ..The news makes me a happy man - That Lladron Crigyll will hang.
0:02:50 > 0:02:55- He must've hated them. He was - a toll collector for a short while.
0:02:55 > 0:02:57- They must've been anathema to him.
0:02:57 > 0:02:59- They must've been anathema to him.- - Many years later...
0:02:59 > 0:03:02- ..following the wreck - of Charming Jenny...
0:03:02 > 0:03:05- ..a ship carrying - a cargo of alcoholic drinks...
0:03:05 > 0:03:08- ..Lewis Morris's wish was granted.
0:03:08 > 0:03:13- One of the thieves, a man - named John Parry from Rhoscolyn...
0:03:13 > 0:03:15- ..was hanged.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20- From what I understand, - some were occasionally set free.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25- Yes, on account of Judge Martin - from Beaumaris being drunk.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28- Reports suggest he was always drunk.
0:03:28 > 0:03:29- Despite their guilt?
0:03:29 > 0:03:32- Despite their guilt?- - They were obviously guilty.
0:03:33 > 0:03:37- They also achieved notoriety - in the national press.
0:03:37 > 0:03:39- This is from The Times...
0:03:39 > 0:03:43- ..dated 30 October 1867.
0:03:43 > 0:03:45- Let me find it.
0:03:46 > 0:03:49- "The wreck is now prey - to the notorious wreckers...
0:03:49 > 0:03:52- "..known to Welsh - seafaring men as Lladron Crigyll.
0:03:53 > 0:03:58- "Many hundreds of them were stealing - whatever they could carry away.
0:03:58 > 0:04:02- "The efforts of Captain Jones - and the Coastguard...
0:04:02 > 0:04:05- "..were utterly inadequate - to protect the property."
0:04:06 > 0:04:07- There were hundreds of them.
0:04:07 > 0:04:09- There were hundreds of them.- - I doubt there were hundreds.
0:04:09 > 0:04:12- Slight hyperbole, perhaps.
0:04:12 > 0:04:15- Hyperbole - on the part of the journalist.
0:04:15 > 0:04:19- They don't sound like the kind - of men I'd want to tackle either.
0:04:19 > 0:04:21- They were dangerous.
0:04:21 > 0:04:23- Give them a wide berth!
0:04:34 > 0:04:39- People nowadays make the most of - the waves in a very different way.
0:04:39 > 0:04:42- Guto Roberts - and Bedwyr ap Gwyn live locally.
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- They give surfing lessons - in Rhosneigr...
0:04:45 > 0:04:48- ..through the medium of Welsh.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- Surfing conjures up images - of Hawaii or Cornwall.
0:05:03 > 0:05:06- This is a Welsh-medium surfing club. - How did it begin?
0:05:07 > 0:05:11- There was enough demand - but no Welsh speakers available.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14- Guto and I qualified - as surfing instructors...
0:05:15 > 0:05:17- ..and we decided to start a club.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20- You teach - through the medium of Welsh too.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24- Yes, everything's in Welsh, - including the terminology.
0:05:24 > 0:05:28- We wanted locals - to enjoy their coastline...
0:05:28 > 0:05:32- ..and be taught - in their native language.
0:05:32 > 0:05:34- Hopefully it'll lead to change.
0:05:34 > 0:05:36- Have you had to coin new terms?
0:05:37 > 0:05:41- Yes, we've been developing - new terms for surfing.
0:05:41 > 0:05:44- When it comes to surfing etiquette - and so on...
0:05:44 > 0:05:50- ..if someone cuts across another's - wave, it's called a drop-in.
0:05:50 > 0:05:54- "Torri ar draws" is a term - that already exists in Welsh...
0:05:55 > 0:05:56- Rather than "gollwng fewn"?
0:05:56 > 0:05:58- Rather than "gollwng fewn"?- - That sounds silly.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02- "Torri ar draws" already exists, - so why not use it?
0:06:02 > 0:06:07- Porth Neigwl - is a popular beach in Lleyn.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09- Its name has come full circle.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13- Some people are referring to it - as Y Geg in Welsh.
0:06:13 > 0:06:18- They've heard the English, Hell's - Mouth, and translated it back...
0:06:18 > 0:06:21- ..to Ceg Uffern or whatever.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26- They refer to it as Y Geg instead - of the original, Porth Neigwl.
0:06:26 > 0:06:31- If they knew it was that to begin - with, they'd call it Porth Neigwl...
0:06:31 > 0:06:33- ..instead of translating it.
0:06:33 > 0:06:36- ..instead of translating it.- - Children are without prejudice.
0:06:37 > 0:06:41- Are they keen for you to teach them - the names of the beaches and so on?
0:06:42 > 0:06:44- Yes, they just take it as gospel.
0:06:44 > 0:06:49- As part of our business, we also - teach people from further afield.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51- We just give them the Welsh names.
0:06:51 > 0:06:55- The beach will be known - by its Welsh name then.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59- We call this beach Tyn Tywyn, - whether they're Welsh or not.
0:06:59 > 0:07:01- That's its name.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05- Does it also enrich - their experience...
0:07:05 > 0:07:07- ..of being at the seaside...
0:07:07 > 0:07:11- ..from knowing the Welsh names - and a little history?
0:07:12 > 0:07:14- We're proud of the area too.
0:07:14 > 0:07:16- I was brought up in Benllech.
0:07:16 > 0:07:20- We've always referred to - these places by their Welsh names.
0:07:20 > 0:07:25- It's going against the tide - by saying, "It's not called that."
0:07:25 > 0:07:28- We take pride in our locality...
0:07:28 > 0:07:33- ..and there's history to names - like Tyn Tywyn and Porth Nobla.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- Barclodiad Y Gawres - is on our doorstep...
0:07:36 > 0:07:41- ..and that takes us back in history - thousands of years.
0:07:41 > 0:07:43- I feel like joining you.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45- Get changed then.
0:07:59 > 0:08:04- There is a strong argument - for what Bedwyr and Guto are doing.
0:08:04 > 0:08:08- They are retaining native names - and sharing them among the young.
0:08:08 > 0:08:10- But we mustn't get misled...
0:08:10 > 0:08:15- ..by believing colourful - explanations based on hearsay.
0:08:17 > 0:08:20- Porth Nobla is the name - of this beautiful beach.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24- Years ago, - there was a coin called a noble.
0:08:24 > 0:08:29- Minted in the 14th century, - it was worth one-third of a pound.
0:08:30 > 0:08:32- According to the story...
0:08:32 > 0:08:34- ..a ship or a boat came to shore...
0:08:34 > 0:08:38- ..and shed a load of nobles - all over the beach.
0:08:38 > 0:08:41- It'd be nice - if that story were true...
0:08:41 > 0:08:44- ..because - these are worth thousands nowadays.
0:08:44 > 0:08:47- Unfortunately, - it's more probable...
0:08:47 > 0:08:50- ..that the name's derivation - is far less romantic.
0:08:50 > 0:08:55- Quite simply, it was considered - the noblest landing place.
0:09:08 > 0:09:13- Across the peninsula from - Porth Nobla is Porth Trecastell...
0:09:13 > 0:09:15- ..known as Cable Bay in English.
0:09:15 > 0:09:20- Cable Bay is a relatively - recent name originating from 1902...
0:09:20 > 0:09:25- ..when cable telegraph arrived, - connecting Wales and Ireland.
0:09:31 > 0:09:35- On Mynydd Cnwc, overlooking the bay, - is Barclodiad Y Gawres...
0:09:36 > 0:09:39- ..Wales's largest - Neolithic burial chamber...
0:09:39 > 0:09:42- ..dating from around 3,000BC.
0:09:42 > 0:09:47- In terms of its shape and pattern - of the stone carvings...
0:09:47 > 0:09:51- ..it's similar to burial chambers - found in Boyne Valley, Ireland.
0:09:56 > 0:10:00- This is what - connects this location with Ireland.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02- 5,000 years...
0:10:03 > 0:10:06- ..before the telegraph wire - was connected.
0:10:13 > 0:10:13- .
0:10:15 > 0:10:15- Subtitles
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0:10:22 > 0:10:26- I'm exploring some of the names - found on Anglesey's west coast.
0:10:27 > 0:10:31- The little church in the sea - is one of the island's wonders.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35- Porth China is the cove - to the north of it.
0:10:35 > 0:10:40- According to some, a ship - laden with china came ashore here.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44- The church of Saint Cwyfan - stands on Ynys Cribiniau...
0:10:44 > 0:10:47- ..which refers to - the rock's grooves.
0:10:47 > 0:10:50- It's not shown as an island - on old maps...
0:10:50 > 0:10:54- ..but rather - as a part of the mainland.
0:10:54 > 0:10:57- Porth Cwyfan means St Cwyfan's Bay.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00- Porth, bay, - and Cwyfan, the saint's name.
0:11:10 > 0:11:15- Further north of Porth Cwyfan, - past the sand dunes of Aberffraw...
0:11:15 > 0:11:17- ..is the village of Malltraeth.
0:11:23 > 0:11:27- We've now entered - the Bodorgan estate...
0:11:27 > 0:11:31- ..one of the most famous and most - influential estates on Anglesey.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34- It extends towards the sea...
0:11:34 > 0:11:39- ..and includes the beaches, islands - and the small rocks near the shore.
0:11:39 > 0:11:43- We've been granted permission - to visit a small island...
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- ..which has - an extraordinary name and history.
0:11:47 > 0:11:53- This is Caseg (Horse) Malltraeth, - an island first recorded in 1617.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56- A cluster of smaller rocks - closer to the shore...
0:11:56 > 0:11:59- ..are called Ebolion (Foals).
0:11:59 > 0:12:01- This rock was given its name...
0:12:01 > 0:12:04- ..due to its resemblance - to a horse in the sea.
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- But it doesn't - just look like a horse.
0:12:07 > 0:12:12- When the southeast wind blows, in - the opposite direction to normal...
0:12:12 > 0:12:15- ..the elements - hit this rock in such a way...
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- ..that it makes the strangest noise.
0:12:18 > 0:12:20- It vibrates - throughout the entire land.
0:12:21 > 0:12:24- People say they can hear - Caseg Malltraeth neighing.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28- They say it's a sign - that adverse weather is on the way.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31- Here's a question for you to ponder.
0:12:31 > 0:12:35- Is it called Caseg Malltraeth - because it neighs...
0:12:35 > 0:12:39- ..or does it neigh because its name - is Caseg Malltraeth?
0:12:39 > 0:12:41- Who knows?
0:12:48 > 0:12:53- Malltraeth cobb was built at - the beginning of the 19th century.
0:12:53 > 0:12:57- Prior to that, - the sea gushed over this marshland.
0:12:57 > 0:13:02- At high tide it reached the town - of Llangefni, some miles away.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10- Behind the cobb lies Cors Ddyga.
0:13:10 > 0:13:15- There are names within the bog - that betray its coastal origin.
0:13:15 > 0:13:17- This is Tyn Fflat.
0:13:17 > 0:13:22- Here the cargo boat was kept to - transfer goods to nearby bodorgan.
0:13:22 > 0:13:27- There were several fords - to cross here at low tide.
0:13:27 > 0:13:32- Rhyd Pen-y-Crug, Rhyd Lydan and Rhyd - Felen are just some of the names.
0:13:32 > 0:13:35- Only their names exist - as evidence of a time...
0:13:35 > 0:13:38- ..when this area - flooded with the tide.
0:13:38 > 0:13:41- It's remarkable to think nowadays...
0:13:41 > 0:13:45- ..that there are records - of shipwrecks in these very fields.
0:13:45 > 0:13:47- As Cors Ddyga...
0:13:47 > 0:13:51- ..reaches the administrative - district of Llangefni...
0:13:51 > 0:13:56- ..we come across a name that makes - no sense at all nowadays.
0:14:15 > 0:14:18- I'm approximately - eight miles from the sea...
0:14:18 > 0:14:23- ..a mere stone's throw away from - Llangefni at the heart of Anglesey.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26- This elevation of land - is called Ynys Cefni...
0:14:26 > 0:14:29- ..or Ynys Las - by the man who farms this area.
0:14:29 > 0:14:34- Before Malltraeth Cobb was built, - an island stood here at high tide...
0:14:35 > 0:14:38- ..and was surrounded by sea - in every direction.
0:14:38 > 0:14:40- It's hard to picture nowadays...
0:14:41 > 0:14:45- ..but retaining its name ensures - we retain this area's history.
0:14:56 > 0:14:58- From lesser-known coastal names...
0:14:58 > 0:15:02- ..to the most famous of them all - on Anglesey.
0:15:02 > 0:15:05- This is Llanddwyn Island, - named after St Dwynwen.
0:15:06 > 0:15:08- The ruins of her church - are still evident.
0:15:09 > 0:15:13- For centuries, the island - has been a destination for pilgrims.
0:15:16 > 0:15:21- Natural Resources Wales works hard - to preserve the island's beauty.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25- They line the pathways with shells.
0:15:29 > 0:15:33- It's fitting that shells - are laid on the pathways...
0:15:33 > 0:15:36- ..since shells - were the symbols of the pilgrims.
0:15:37 > 0:15:39- The grooves - symbolize the number of people...
0:15:40 > 0:15:43- ..who came from far and wide...
0:15:43 > 0:15:47- ..to the one location - for the same reason.
0:15:54 > 0:15:59- How much maintenance work - is required to retain its beauty?
0:15:59 > 0:16:01- A lot of work is involved.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05- Around 250,000 visitors a year - pass through the gates...
0:16:06 > 0:16:10- ..and of that number, around 30%-40% - venture up to the island.
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- We have to ensure - their safety on site.
0:16:14 > 0:16:19- We work around them and ensure - a high standard of horticulture.
0:16:19 > 0:16:21- What does your work entail?
0:16:21 > 0:16:23- I've a few job to do.
0:16:23 > 0:16:26- I do a lot in the dunes - as well as the island.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30- I search for rare plants - and document them on maps...
0:16:31 > 0:16:34- ..to make sure - they're preserved for the future...
0:16:34 > 0:16:36- ..so that they can thrive.
0:16:37 > 0:16:38- Do you cultivate rare flowers?
0:16:38 > 0:16:40- Do you cultivate rare flowers?- - Yes, that's the idea.
0:16:41 > 0:16:44- We've collected wild seeds - from this site...
0:16:45 > 0:16:49- ..planted them in the soil, - and once they've blossomed...
0:16:49 > 0:16:51- ..we do the same thing again.
0:16:51 > 0:16:55- So that you end up - with a beautiful, natural meadow?
0:16:55 > 0:17:00- Yes, that's the idea. We even - plant in the chapel's cemetery.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03- You just might have - the best job in the world.
0:17:03 > 0:17:05- I think so.
0:17:13 > 0:17:17- Those who were ill or unlucky in - love made pilgrimages to Llanddwyn.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21- There are reports - of people coming here...
0:17:21 > 0:17:25- ..and falling asleep on a grassy - area known as Gwely Esyth...
0:17:25 > 0:17:29- ..which is beneath the spot - where the tower stands today.
0:17:29 > 0:17:33- Once pilgrims awoke and - inscribed their names in the turf...
0:17:33 > 0:17:36- ..they were cured - of their complaints.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46- Dr David Owens of Newborough has - an extensive knowledge of the area.
0:17:47 > 0:17:51- His grandfather was one of Llanddwyn - Island's last sea captains.
0:17:52 > 0:17:54- What a spectacular view.
0:17:54 > 0:17:59- You've spent a large part - of your childhood in these cottages.
0:17:59 > 0:18:02- Not in the cottages, as such...
0:18:02 > 0:18:06- ..but during school holidays, - my friends and I would come here...
0:18:07 > 0:18:09- ..to sunbathe and swim...
0:18:10 > 0:18:12- ..or go boating or fishing.
0:18:14 > 0:18:15- What I've tried to do...
0:18:16 > 0:18:18- ..is label as much as I can.
0:18:18 > 0:18:23- This is the portion which - connects Llanddwyn to the mainland.
0:18:23 > 0:18:26- This is its neck.
0:18:26 > 0:18:30- The first place we come to - is Porth Cychod.
0:18:30 > 0:18:33- It was a place - for boats to shelter...
0:18:34 > 0:18:38- ..after they'd been fishing - and so on.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41- There were few places to shelter - on the island...
0:18:41 > 0:18:46- ..until they built - this causeway in front of us.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50- This didn't exist before 1815.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54- So it was an island - before building the causeway?
0:18:54 > 0:18:58- This would've been the best beach - on the entire island.
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- That's my understanding. If we - carry on, we come to a small bay.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06- It's called Porth Yr Halen.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09- There was a time when high taxes...
0:19:10 > 0:19:12- ..were levied on salt.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16- Smugglers would smuggle it in - to overcome that problem.
0:19:16 > 0:19:18- That explains its name.
0:19:18 > 0:19:22- It's a discreet little cove...
0:19:23 > 0:19:24- ..to smuggle contraband!
0:19:25 > 0:19:27- This is Ynys Y Clochydd.
0:19:28 > 0:19:34- I've heard people refer - to this beach as Porth Clochydd.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38- But I've also heard people - call it Porth Gwenith.
0:19:39 > 0:19:42- From where - is the name Porth Clochydd derived?
0:19:42 > 0:19:45- There was once - a church on Llanddwyn...
0:19:45 > 0:19:48- ..and perhaps centuries ago...
0:19:48 > 0:19:52- ..a sexton lived here.
0:19:52 > 0:19:56- He might've fished in the bay...
0:19:56 > 0:19:58- ..or moored his boat there.
0:19:58 > 0:20:00- I don't know the reason for it.
0:20:00 > 0:20:01- I don't know the reason for it.- - It must be an archaic name.
0:20:02 > 0:20:04- Yes, maybe so.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07- The rock over my left shoulder...
0:20:07 > 0:20:12- ..is called Craig Y Ganan.
0:20:13 > 0:20:15- The cannon behind us...
0:20:16 > 0:20:20- ..was only positioned here - 25 years ago.
0:20:20 > 0:20:22- It used to sit on top of that rock.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- It used to sit on top of that rock.- - Craig Y Ganan refers to the cannon.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29- What purpose did it serve?
0:20:30 > 0:20:34- When the crewmen - were summoned to the lifeboat...
0:20:34 > 0:20:36- ..they'd fire the cannon.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40- It alerted the people of Newborough.
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- There was also a cannon there, - on a farm called Maes Y Ceirchdir...
0:20:45 > 0:20:47- ..which was fired in response.
0:20:48 > 0:20:50- To let them know - there was a crew on the way.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54- There weren't enough crewmen...
0:20:54 > 0:20:58- ..among the few sailors - who lived here...
0:20:58 > 0:21:04- ..to row a heavy boat - in treacherous weather...
0:21:04 > 0:21:06- ..to Caernarfon, for instance.
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- To the southwest...
0:21:09 > 0:21:12- ..there are two islands in the sea.
0:21:12 > 0:21:16- Ynys Y Cranc (Crab Island) - and Ynys Y Mochyn (Pig Island).
0:21:16 > 0:21:19- Why were they called these names?
0:21:19 > 0:21:21- You can understand crab...
0:21:21 > 0:21:26- ..but I doubt they caught them - under rocks and in crab holes.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29- So Ynys Y Mochyn - is the furthest one?
0:21:29 > 0:21:33- A pig at one time must've had the - misfortune of ending up there.
0:21:33 > 0:21:38- A boat carrying pigs - might well have sunk there.
0:21:38 > 0:21:39- It might've been transporting pigs.
0:21:39 > 0:21:41- It might've been transporting pigs.- - And the name has stuck.
0:21:42 > 0:21:44- It's a minute island.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49- You've given us these names - that would've been used locally.
0:21:49 > 0:21:51- There's a wealth of them.
0:22:08 > 0:22:14- I noticed this map where they've - labelled the beaches and islands.
0:22:15 > 0:22:19- Considering that so many - of these names are being lost...
0:22:19 > 0:22:22- ..this example should be followed.
0:22:22 > 0:22:26- Apps and software could be designed - to support such maps...
0:22:26 > 0:22:30- ..introducing pronunciations - and the history behind the names.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34- That's a matter - that should be discussed...
0:22:34 > 0:22:36- ..by councillors and financiers.
0:22:37 > 0:22:40- It should be up for discussion, - in my opinion.
0:22:57 > 0:22:59- S4C Subtitles by Adnod Cyf.
0:22:59 > 0:22:59- .