0:00:02 > 0:00:07'Raymond Blanc's kitchen is never busier than at Christmas. For any cook, it's an exciting time.'
0:00:07 > 0:00:12It is your hour of glory. It's worth it.
0:00:12 > 0:00:16'For a Frenchman who has spent the last 34 years and many Christmases in Britain,
0:00:16 > 0:00:20'Raymond wants to honour his love and passion for both countries,
0:00:20 > 0:00:26'so he will cook a French-inspired Christmas dinner made with the very best of British ingredients.'
0:00:26 > 0:00:29Look at that. That is freshness.
0:00:29 > 0:00:35'He'll be serving his five-course feast to an intimate group of friends and family.
0:00:35 > 0:00:41'Adorning his festive table will be the freshest seafood hand-picked in Cornwall,
0:00:41 > 0:00:45'a crisp-skinned golden goose from just down the road in Abingdon,
0:00:45 > 0:00:50'sweet roasted chestnuts from right under the trees in Hampshire...'
0:00:50 > 0:00:53Who's got the biggest one? Of course, it is Raymond!
0:00:53 > 0:00:59'..even the Christmas decorations will be delicious and edible, hand-crafted by Christmas elves.
0:00:59 > 0:01:03'So sit back, pour a glass of English sparkling wine
0:01:03 > 0:01:08- 'and prepare to be inspired by Raymond Blanc's French Christmas feast.'- Give me a big hug.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11I love you. That's a good start to Christmas.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30'It's Christmas time in Oxfordshire.
0:01:30 > 0:01:35'The leaves have fallen, the garden is quiet and mist hangs heavy in the cold winter air.
0:01:35 > 0:01:41'But in his kitchen, Raymond Blanc is preparing the warmest of festive feasts.'
0:01:41 > 0:01:45I decided to change hat, change my chef's hat for a much more befitting one.
0:01:45 > 0:01:48My friends are coming. I will cook for them.
0:01:48 > 0:01:54'As well as close friends, Raymond is creating a fabulous dinner to be enjoyed by fiancee Natalia
0:01:54 > 0:01:57'and sons Sebastien and Olivier.'
0:01:57 > 0:02:02It's a special time, Christmas. I remember when we were here and you climbed in the window
0:02:02 > 0:02:07- up here and...- I nearly died! - He dressed as a Santa Claus.- He made me believe in Christmas for a while.
0:02:07 > 0:02:11I made sure I woke him up and he looked at Father Christmas.
0:02:11 > 0:02:15He really... And he was, "Wow!" and I disappeared.
0:02:15 > 0:02:19And then for 15 years, he believed it was Father Christmas.
0:02:19 > 0:02:21He was arguing with his friends.
0:02:21 > 0:02:24'It's an important time of the year for Raymond.'
0:02:24 > 0:02:28The spirit of Christmas and what is on the table,
0:02:28 > 0:02:33that amazing moment where the whole family gather once in the year
0:02:33 > 0:02:36and just simply eat, drink wine and enjoy.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40'The food he cooks on Christmas Day takes on a different kind of meaning.'
0:02:40 > 0:02:43Of course, to celebrate, you want food.
0:02:43 > 0:02:47And that's why, to me, food is as important a communion as a mass
0:02:47 > 0:02:52or going to church to celebrate Jesus' arrival.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55'For Raymond, the Christmas feast is holy.'
0:02:55 > 0:03:00With this beautiful food, I'm going to celebrate life, my friends,
0:03:00 > 0:03:04Christmas, I'm going to be completely involved in creating a fantastic feast.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18- 'For Raymond, simplicity has its place on the Christmas table.'- OK.
0:03:18 > 0:03:23'And with that in mind, he's starting with a creamy shellfish soup.'
0:03:23 > 0:03:26- How many bay leaves did I put in? - Just the one, chef.
0:03:26 > 0:03:30'Succulent clams and mussels in a delicate creamy broth,
0:03:30 > 0:03:36'a simple but luxurious starter, perfect to prepare the day before for a stress-free Christmas.'
0:03:36 > 0:03:39So what do you want for Christmas?
0:03:39 > 0:03:42Erm, a pay rise. THEY LAUGH
0:03:42 > 0:03:45'This is Raymond's shellfish chowder.'
0:03:46 > 0:03:51The idea of that soup is it's simple soup that the fishermen used to enjoy.
0:03:51 > 0:03:57But for Christmas, of course, I wanted to make it elegant, make it a bit fresher,
0:03:57 > 0:04:00clean, not too heavy. So let's start cooking.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06'First, Raymond prepares his shellfish.'
0:04:06 > 0:04:11We are lucky in England. We are surrounded with fantastic fresh seafood.
0:04:11 > 0:04:16Tiny little clams. Can get some bigger ones if we want to. And I know they're great. You know why?
0:04:16 > 0:04:19Cos I can smell it, I can see it,
0:04:19 > 0:04:22they're all tightly closed, they are beautiful.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25Full of seawater, full of beautiful juices
0:04:25 > 0:04:28which will give my soup that fabulous taste.
0:04:28 > 0:04:31'As well as clams, Raymond is using mussels.
0:04:31 > 0:04:36- 'Raymond preheats a large saucepan over a medium heat.'- Big pot.
0:04:36 > 0:04:39'Heating the pot first will help create maximum steam.'
0:04:39 > 0:04:45And so throw those shellfish into your pot.
0:04:45 > 0:04:49'To the shellfish, Raymond adds 200 mils of dry white wine.
0:04:49 > 0:04:52'This adds a layer of acidity to the soup.'
0:04:52 > 0:04:54What's happening is simple.
0:04:54 > 0:04:58The wine will boil, the juices of the shellfish will be released
0:04:58 > 0:05:01and, of course, the vapour will steam them beautifully.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04No more than three minutes, until they're just open.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08You can see, they're already opening. Look at that. It's amazing.
0:05:08 > 0:05:12Look at that! And they are beautiful. There's so much seawater coming out
0:05:12 > 0:05:17and that's going to give the flavour, the character, to my soup.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20'The shells should be just open and barely cooked.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22'Strain and reserve the juices.'
0:05:22 > 0:05:25Look at that. That is freshness.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31- Voila. - 'Next Raymond melts some butter.'
0:05:31 > 0:05:35For four people, about 20 grams, no more.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39So 5 grams per portion. So no punishment,
0:05:39 > 0:05:44no guilt, please, it's Christmas time, no guilt. Let's have fun, let's enjoy our food.
0:05:44 > 0:05:47'To this, he adds some roughly-chopped onion,
0:05:47 > 0:05:50'two bay leaves and sliced garlic.
0:05:50 > 0:05:54'Softening the onion and garlic without colouring creates a sweet flavour.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58'Next Raymond removes the clams and mussels from their shells.'
0:05:58 > 0:06:01I think to be in the privacy of your kitchen,
0:06:01 > 0:06:04preparing a lovely meal for your friends
0:06:04 > 0:06:07in that quiet, lovely environment,
0:06:07 > 0:06:11and knowing you're going to give them a wonderful feast,
0:06:11 > 0:06:13I think it's fantastic, it's something so special.
0:06:13 > 0:06:18'Raymond adds the reserved pan juices, mussels and clams into the pan.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21'And for Christmas warmth, some grated ginger.
0:06:22 > 0:06:27'Final touches. Fresh samphire, also called sea asparagus,
0:06:27 > 0:06:31'brings colour, texture and another taste of the sea.
0:06:31 > 0:06:33'And for a festive flavour, nutmeg.'
0:06:33 > 0:06:39Ohh! These spices are so wintry, they're so Christmassy.
0:06:39 > 0:06:43With all spices, you've got to be so careful, because they can be so powerful.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47They can easily take over a dish, especially shellfish.
0:06:47 > 0:06:51- 'At the last moment, Raymond adds some water.'- Always taste.
0:06:52 > 0:06:56'For the perfect finish, careful heating is required.'
0:06:56 > 0:07:00Bring it just to the boil, no more than that, otherwise everything will be overcooked
0:07:00 > 0:07:05and you lose that freshness and that wonderful rugged flavour from the sea, and you want to keep it.
0:07:05 > 0:07:08'And finally, a little cream, freshly-chopped herbs...'
0:07:08 > 0:07:11Lovely. Long live Christmas.
0:07:11 > 0:07:16'..and softened dried seaweed. This can be found in the Japanese section of most supermarkets.'
0:07:17 > 0:07:21Oh, it's lovely. Beautiful sea. Fantastic.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25- I cooked it for you.- For me? - I think I owe you a lot
0:07:25 > 0:07:30and it's about time I'm gentle and kind to you. It's Christmas, after all.
0:07:33 > 0:07:35Oh, yeah. Nice and creamy.
0:07:37 > 0:07:42'Raymond's seafood chowder - the perfect soup for an elegant Christmas feast.
0:07:44 > 0:07:50'At Christmas time, oysters are to France what sausage rolls are to Britain.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53'For Raymond, no festive feast would be complete without them,
0:07:53 > 0:07:56'so he's heading to the River Fal on the south Cornish coast
0:07:56 > 0:08:01'and the last fishery in Europe to use sailboats to harvest this queen of molluscs.'
0:08:01 > 0:08:04The more you eat them, the more you love them.
0:08:04 > 0:08:08And by December, they are so perfect for the table.
0:08:08 > 0:08:12It's like they prepare themselves for that beautiful Christmas moment.
0:08:12 > 0:08:15And immediately, you are in the spirit of Christmas,
0:08:15 > 0:08:17you are in the spirit of celebration.
0:08:17 > 0:08:23'Raymond is joining Les Angel, it is Christmas, and his son Dan for a morning's fishing.'
0:08:23 > 0:08:28Come on, old man. Come on, old timer! THEY LAUGH
0:08:33 > 0:08:38'Les has been working the estuary for over 30 years.'
0:08:39 > 0:08:43We're going to come about this way and then I'll chuck the dredge over.
0:08:43 > 0:08:49'Here in Falmouth, people have been harvesting oysters the same way for more than five centuries
0:08:49 > 0:08:54'using a simple chainmail sheet and brute strength to collect their haul.'
0:08:57 > 0:09:00- There we are. - Oh, beautiful! Lovely colours.
0:09:00 > 0:09:05Purple and... Just like Pinot Noir has been thrown into the ocean.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08Beautiful! Not too much oysters.
0:09:08 > 0:09:10Mostly mud and muck.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15We caught a pair of sunglasses out here yesterday. THEY LAUGH
0:09:20 > 0:09:24- There we are.- Oh, beautiful! - There are a few oysters here.
0:09:24 > 0:09:30- We won't cancel Christmas yet, eh? - Imagine Christmas without oysters. Impossible!
0:09:30 > 0:09:35- Is it an English tradition to eat oysters at Christmas? - It's more in France, I think.
0:09:35 > 0:09:39- So what would you do, then? - If we're catching a few oysters, it'll be turkey.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41If not, it'll be blackbird. HE LAUGHS
0:09:41 > 0:09:46'Demand for oysters soars at Christmas in France and the UK.
0:09:46 > 0:09:51'Raymond needs seven kilograms just for his Christmas feast alone.'
0:09:51 > 0:09:56Is there something we're doing wrong here? Either your young man works ten times faster
0:09:56 > 0:10:01- or is ten times luckier. What do you think?- Oh, it must be luck.
0:10:02 > 0:10:05Voila. The boy's done good, eh?
0:10:05 > 0:10:09- Oh, a few oysters here. Look at that!- Nice colour, isn't it?
0:10:09 > 0:10:12My first hand-caught oyster.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15- Yeah.- With orange hands. - THEY LAUGH
0:10:15 > 0:10:20- And a beautiful one, eh?- Yeah, lovely oyster.- Worth waiting for. - Worth waiting for, that one.
0:10:24 > 0:10:26Other way.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32'Raymond is heading back to shore where under the careful eye of Steve Kestin
0:10:32 > 0:10:36'of the Cornish Oyster Company, his oysters are cleaned and purified.'
0:10:37 > 0:10:41My God, look at this beauty! That's my favourite size.
0:10:43 > 0:10:47'Ultra-violet light is used to kill any impurities.'
0:10:49 > 0:10:55They cost 50 percent more than standard purified oysters.
0:10:55 > 0:10:57Which, of course, I'm also paying, by the way.
0:10:57 > 0:11:02They can't cause any food poisoning and for me, it means a great deal.
0:11:02 > 0:11:07'And it means a great deal to the Falmouth fishermen he is treating to some of his Christmas haul.'
0:11:07 > 0:11:10Guys, I've got a little present for you all.
0:11:10 > 0:11:16Oh, yay, oh, yay! Oysters taken from the best fishermen in the whole of Cornwall.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19- Take the big, fat one. - THEY LAUGH
0:11:19 > 0:11:22- Sante! Cheers!- Sante.
0:11:24 > 0:11:28- Mm.- Mm!- Mm!
0:11:28 > 0:11:33That is fantastic. Very beautiful. Lovely. Great. I'll come back for more.
0:11:35 > 0:11:37Oh, yay, oh, yay! Drinks on the house!
0:11:37 > 0:11:39- THEY CHEER - Why not?
0:11:41 > 0:11:44'The Cornish oysters will feel right at home
0:11:44 > 0:11:47'at the heart of Raymond's fabulous seafood centrepiece.
0:11:47 > 0:11:52'The classic way to begin a French Christmas feast,
0:11:52 > 0:11:54'Raymond's plateau de fruits de mer.'
0:11:54 > 0:11:58Fruits de mer means food of the sea. What a beautiful word.
0:11:58 > 0:12:02Only the French could think of that wonderful romantic twist.
0:12:02 > 0:12:06'It's an intimidating dish, but most of the fish on a plateau de fruits de mer
0:12:06 > 0:12:10'can be bought ready to eat from a fishmonger.
0:12:11 > 0:12:15'Raymond is preparing his himself.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- 'Crab.'- Nice pot-caught crab.
0:12:18 > 0:12:21A Cornish pot-caught crab.
0:12:21 > 0:12:27Not easy for a Frenchman to say all these words in succession. We just thrown it in.
0:12:27 > 0:12:29'The crab is boiled along with two lobsters,
0:12:29 > 0:12:33'some barely cooked mussels and clams.'
0:12:33 > 0:12:36Hey, you. Come on, you. Perfectly formed.
0:12:37 > 0:12:41I have French friends who'd rather have it raw.
0:12:44 > 0:12:46What was that?
0:12:46 > 0:12:50- Oh, my God, what's going on here? - HE LAUGHS
0:12:50 > 0:12:54I've seen something. It's a haunted cuisine.
0:12:56 > 0:13:00'The clams and mussels are covered in a damp cloth and set aside in the fridge.'
0:13:04 > 0:13:08By the way, that is for Adam.
0:13:08 > 0:13:10- Adam?- Oui, chef.
0:13:10 > 0:13:12My lovely Adam.
0:13:12 > 0:13:16Here is your Christmas stocking.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20- You never thought I would think of you, eh?- No.- Well, here we are.
0:13:20 > 0:13:23- Here. Don't spend it too fast, OK? - All right.
0:13:23 > 0:13:28- Is that my bonus? - I know you love your sugar and that's your bonus at the same time.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31- I thought I would hit two birds with one stone.- Thank you.- OK?
0:13:31 > 0:13:34'The lobster and crab are set aside to cool.'
0:13:34 > 0:13:38While they cool, they'll be cooking at the same time.
0:13:38 > 0:13:42The cooking doesn't stop just like that, it goes on very quietly
0:13:42 > 0:13:44so the flesh is absolutely delicious.
0:13:44 > 0:13:48'With the seafood prepared, it's time to think about an accompaniment.'
0:13:48 > 0:13:51The mayonnaise is an extremely simple affair.
0:13:51 > 0:13:54Very simple. A few rules.
0:13:54 > 0:13:59'To three egg yolks, Raymond adds a teaspoon of Dijon mustard.
0:13:59 > 0:14:03'And then a neutral-tasting oil. He's using virgin rapeseed oil.'
0:14:03 > 0:14:07Don't go too fast. But if you go too fast,
0:14:07 > 0:14:12like that for example, dampen it just with a tiny bit of hot water
0:14:12 > 0:14:16on the side and you can easily bring it back together. I'll show you.
0:14:18 > 0:14:22Pour a little bit here. Voila. And look.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26Now I'm re-emulsifying my dressing.
0:14:26 > 0:14:28I used to do it for my mum,
0:14:28 > 0:14:31and at home it was a big bowl
0:14:31 > 0:14:34and a whole bottle of beautiful oil would go into it.
0:14:39 > 0:14:45Gorgeous. Lemony, thin, very fresh. I think they will love it.
0:14:45 > 0:14:48Completely. Mm! I do.
0:14:52 > 0:14:57- Voila.- 'With everything prepared, all that remains to be done
0:14:57 > 0:15:00'is place the seafood on the traditional two-tier dish.
0:15:00 > 0:15:05- 'The height creates a magnificent centrepiece for any table.'- There.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08So now you have a spectacular feast.
0:15:08 > 0:15:13That's the kind of feast which my friends will grab with two hands. I know that.
0:15:18 > 0:15:23'Raymond loves given presents. And if they can be eaten, all the better.'
0:15:23 > 0:15:25OK, voila.
0:15:25 > 0:15:30There's nothing like a local fruit. It can't be more local than that!
0:15:30 > 0:15:32Growing on the side of the kitchen!
0:15:32 > 0:15:34Fantastic! She will love that.
0:15:36 > 0:15:41'This year, he's making a simple but delicious gift for someone very special.
0:15:41 > 0:15:43'This is Raymond's spiced fruits.
0:15:45 > 0:15:48'As well as the quince from the kitchen garden,
0:15:48 > 0:15:52'Raymond's using pears, apples and pineapple.'
0:15:52 > 0:15:55It's a sign of wealth, of friendship, of success.
0:15:55 > 0:15:59So if you have a pineapple, you're a very wealthy man. So I feel very wealthy now.
0:15:59 > 0:16:03'The fruit is peeled, sliced and mixed with mulled wine.
0:16:04 > 0:16:09'The spicy fruits and warming wine are poured into a sterilised jar.'
0:16:09 > 0:16:15Good. Immediately seal it. And beware, because those fruits will only keep for two weeks like that.
0:16:18 > 0:16:22'Sarah Goodsell is a florist who has worked with Raymond for over 20 years.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26'Every Christmas, she decorates in tinsels, garlands and fairy lights
0:16:26 > 0:16:29'to create a Christmas kingdom for Raymond.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33'And this year has been no different.
0:16:34 > 0:16:38- HE KNOCKS AT DOOR Hello!- Hello, my lovely. I have a little present for you.
0:16:38 > 0:16:40Thank you very much!
0:16:40 > 0:16:44- OK? From the fruit of the orchards. - Lovely. Thank you very much.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46- I should test it, maybe. - Maybe we should!
0:16:46 > 0:16:50We've worked together for so long, it's such a joy.
0:16:50 > 0:16:54And, of course, Sarah made all the decorations for the dining room.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57- Give me a big hug. - Thank you.- I love it!
0:16:57 > 0:17:01- Have a lovely Christmas. - Hope you enjoy that.- And a little something for Christmas Day.
0:17:01 > 0:17:05- Don't open till Christmas Day.- OK. - I will enjoy those.- OK. Bye, now.
0:17:05 > 0:17:07Thank you! Bye-bye!
0:17:10 > 0:17:15'There are some British traditions that Raymond can't escape
0:17:15 > 0:17:19'and one of them is making sure he has a good, plump bird for Christmas.
0:17:20 > 0:17:25'This year, he's going for a goose. Succulent breast and melting leg meat
0:17:25 > 0:17:30'is served with a fruity chestnut stuffing, tangy orange sauce,
0:17:30 > 0:17:34'crunchy roast potatoes and juicy glazed sprouts.
0:17:34 > 0:17:38'This is Raymond's Christmas goose with all the trimmings.'
0:17:38 > 0:17:43- Perfect.- 'Raymond loves local, and this goose is from just down the road in Abingdon.'
0:17:43 > 0:17:50They have a lovely white flock of geese ten miles away from my restaurant. It's fantastic.
0:17:50 > 0:17:55It shows the revival of British food, of British craft, and that is exciting.
0:17:55 > 0:17:59'First Raymond joints the goose for a very good reason.'
0:17:59 > 0:18:05The leg will not cook at the same time as the breast. These legs are a bit like Linford Christie.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08A sportsman leg. It's always been a dilemma.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12When you cook a chicken, the breast is always overcooked and the legs barely cooked.
0:18:12 > 0:18:15In that goose, it's even more so.
0:18:18 > 0:18:20- Oh, God. - HE LAUGHS
0:18:20 > 0:18:23'Unusually, this bird is giving Raymond some trouble.'
0:18:23 > 0:18:28It doesn't break. Oh, God. Adam.
0:18:28 > 0:18:30'But Santa's helper is never far away.'
0:18:30 > 0:18:33You try it.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39You need a big man in your kitchen. Thank you, Adam.
0:18:40 > 0:18:43'The goose legs are lightly cured.'
0:18:43 > 0:18:45A bit of salt, garlic,
0:18:45 > 0:18:48bay leaf, a bit of thyme.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51'Just five minutes adds an extra layer of flavour.
0:18:54 > 0:18:58'Using Raymond's technique means nothing goes to waste.
0:18:58 > 0:19:00'Even the neck bones are going to be used.'
0:19:00 > 0:19:03Gentle heat, not too strong.
0:19:03 > 0:19:07The bones will take about ten minutes to brown. No more.
0:19:07 > 0:19:11'Once browned, Raymond adds carrot, celery and onion.'
0:19:11 > 0:19:17The smell has already taken over the kitchen. It's heavenly here. And we've not even started.
0:19:17 > 0:19:21'Then the bones and vegetables are put in a large roasting tin.'
0:19:21 > 0:19:24So the bones will do two things.
0:19:24 > 0:19:31They will act as a trivet on which the goose leg will sit on top
0:19:31 > 0:19:36and the heat will go right around, rather than drying against the hot tray.
0:19:36 > 0:19:41Equally, they'll caramelise when cooking, lending a bit of flavour to your jus. Very simple.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45'The legs will cook on top of the bones for a total of two and a half hours,
0:19:45 > 0:19:49'first on their own and then with the breast.
0:19:49 > 0:19:53'For extra crispness and flavour, the breast is rubbed with seasoned butter.'
0:19:53 > 0:19:58You need about 30 grams, no more. Give it a good rub.
0:19:58 > 0:20:01And then place it very nicely here.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04'Raymond raises the temperature of the oven
0:20:04 > 0:20:08'and the goose crown now goes in at 230 degrees for 30 minutes.
0:20:10 > 0:20:16'After half an hour, to start creating the gravy, Raymond adds water to the roasting dish.'
0:20:16 > 0:20:18That is my miracle. Just water.
0:20:18 > 0:20:22Because I've got these fantastic caramelised bones here.
0:20:22 > 0:20:24We've got to give them wonderful flavour.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27You can see there's a lot of fat here. Leave it in.
0:20:27 > 0:20:30It doesn't matter. We'll collect it later.
0:20:30 > 0:20:35'The goose goes back into a cool oven for another half an hour.
0:20:40 > 0:20:45'The breast and legs can now rest for up to an hour under a little foil
0:20:45 > 0:20:48'while the gravy is strained and finished.'
0:20:48 > 0:20:54There's a lot of fat here. I don't mind a tiny little bit. The French call it jus gras.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58That jus has a little bit of fat and, of course, the fat gives flavour.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05And it is so divine. It's holy.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08So...incredible.
0:21:08 > 0:21:12'To serve, remove the breast from the bone and slice.'
0:21:12 > 0:21:18- Absolutely perfect. - 'The leg meat is so soft, Raymond carves with a spoon.'
0:21:19 > 0:21:21It is so appetising.
0:21:21 > 0:21:24Look at that. Absolutely amazing.
0:21:25 > 0:21:28So, of course, you can do that in front of your guests,
0:21:28 > 0:21:33- if you are courageous...and vain. - HE LAUGHS
0:21:33 > 0:21:37Or you can do it quietly in your kitchen with a very sharp knife.
0:21:37 > 0:21:42'As a garnish, deep-fried parsley and celery leaves.'
0:21:47 > 0:21:52I think it's a wonderful centrepiece that you should have for Christmas.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00'No French Christmas would be complete without one special nut.'
0:22:00 > 0:22:03- Really? Oh, yes! - LAUGHTER
0:22:03 > 0:22:06'The chestnut is a core ingredient of any French Christmas
0:22:06 > 0:22:11'and Raymond will be using it in both savoury and sweet recipes he's cooking for his feast.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14'This year, he's going to try and collect his own chestnuts
0:22:14 > 0:22:18'just as he did as a child, foraging in the French countryside.
0:22:18 > 0:22:21'Raymond's brought his sons, Sebastien and Olivier,
0:22:21 > 0:22:24'to Laverstoke Park in Hampshire, country estate of great friend,
0:22:24 > 0:22:28'Formula 1 champion turned bio-dynamic farmer Jody Scheckter.
0:22:30 > 0:22:34'Deep in the forest, Raymond hopes his city-dwelling sons might have inherited
0:22:34 > 0:22:37'his aptitude as a hunter-gatherer.'
0:22:37 > 0:22:41- Have you never hunted chestnuts? - Not hunted, no. They're not the most deadly of prey.
0:22:41 > 0:22:46First you have to identify the tree. There's a few chestnut trees here. Can you find them?
0:22:46 > 0:22:48- Don't know. - HE LAUGHS
0:22:48 > 0:22:52Great. Real city boys, eh? Real city boys.
0:22:55 > 0:22:59How do you differentiate a conker from a chestnut?
0:22:59 > 0:23:03Pops, I think the answer to that question is that you can have a conker fight with a conker,
0:23:03 > 0:23:07- and a chestnut, you can't. Is that a good definition?- No.
0:23:07 > 0:23:11- That's completely off the mark. - OK, a chestnut you can eat, a conker you can't eat
0:23:11 > 0:23:13- because your eyes explode. - That's a good one.
0:23:13 > 0:23:18'Horse chestnuts, also known as conkers, are not edible.'
0:23:18 > 0:23:24Look at that. Beautiful. I think they're extremely prickly, so it's a good idea to wear gloves.
0:23:24 > 0:23:30- No, I refuse to wear a glove to pick up chestnuts.- You don't look like a real hunter with gloves on.
0:23:30 > 0:23:32'Right, if the gloves are coming off,
0:23:32 > 0:23:36'Raymond's hitting back with an attack on the size of Jody's chestnuts.'
0:23:36 > 0:23:42- They're quite tiny because these trees have not been well looked after.- Hey, hey!
0:23:42 > 0:23:44THEY LAUGH
0:23:44 > 0:23:48'To Raymond, French nuts are far superior.'
0:23:48 > 0:23:51In France, they're fat, they're big, they're delicious.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59Oh, here's a nice fat one. Oh, look at that.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02- I've found a French one here. A big, juicy one.- Ah, voila.
0:24:02 > 0:24:07That's it. See, that's more like it. That's starting to look like a very beautiful French chestnut.
0:24:07 > 0:24:13- And the French really know their food, OK? And they are... - HE LAUGHS
0:24:13 > 0:24:16Don't throw them at me, cos they do hurt.
0:24:16 > 0:24:18Aww. Who's got the biggest one?
0:24:18 > 0:24:22Of course, it is Raymond! Look at that, son!
0:24:22 > 0:24:25- It is quite a big one. - Beautiful! Of course it is.
0:24:25 > 0:24:29Let's go and cook them. I'm getting hungry just talking about them.
0:24:33 > 0:24:35Gorgeous smell.
0:24:35 > 0:24:41'South-African-born Jody loves the outdoor life and his summer house is the ideal winter venue
0:24:41 > 0:24:44'for roasting a chestnut. Over an open fire, of course.
0:24:46 > 0:24:51'The ever-competitive Raymond has brought a secret stash of French chestnuts
0:24:51 > 0:24:53'to see how their English cousins compare.'
0:24:53 > 0:25:00- These are them.- It's the taste that counts.- Ah, yes. I'm very curious about these little chestnuts.
0:25:03 > 0:25:06Make sure you do a good incision in the skin,
0:25:06 > 0:25:09otherwise it could burst out and burn you.
0:25:09 > 0:25:12- OK.- Come on, guys, keep up. We don't want to lost you.
0:25:15 > 0:25:19The English ones should be ready earlier cos they're smaller.
0:25:19 > 0:25:24- Usually that's the law of average, yes.- I know you want us to overcook it.- No, no, no.
0:25:24 > 0:25:28Yours are going to shrink to cardboard.
0:25:28 > 0:25:32'As the chestnuts roast, Raymond can't keep away from the kitchen
0:25:32 > 0:25:37'and an urge to indulge in a great Christmas tradition enjoyed across Europe. Mulled wine.'
0:25:37 > 0:25:42What we're going to do first is to boil the wine to remove as much alcohol as possible.
0:25:42 > 0:25:44Put this in.
0:25:45 > 0:25:50Don't buy an expensive wine, OK? We want a nice strong Merlot or Syrah.
0:25:52 > 0:25:54Beautiful, huh?
0:25:56 > 0:25:59'To the wine, Raymond adds his Christmas spices,
0:25:59 > 0:26:03'cloves and bay leaves, along with sliced lemon or orange.'
0:26:04 > 0:26:06Cinnamon.
0:26:06 > 0:26:11Then the sugar, just to take the edge off the bitterness of the wine.
0:26:11 > 0:26:16Oh, you will need that. It's three litres. We're going to add the water, as well.
0:26:16 > 0:26:19So that will simmer down a little bit.
0:26:19 > 0:26:22Just a gentle simmer for maybe ten minutes.
0:26:22 > 0:26:28- A little bit of whisky will improve it when the camera's not on. - A dash of cognac, of course.
0:26:28 > 0:26:31'No cognac here. Jody prefers whisky.'
0:26:31 > 0:26:33- What is it?- 57 percent.
0:26:33 > 0:26:37Shall we do a little bit? Smell it.
0:26:39 > 0:26:44- It is lovely.- 'But, of course, what happens when you put two bon viveur behind a bar?'
0:26:44 > 0:26:48You've got to put more. You've got to put a bit more in.
0:26:48 > 0:26:51- Voila.- Ah, what the hell!
0:26:51 > 0:26:53HE LAUGHS
0:26:53 > 0:26:56- This will be a very merry Christmas after this.- Yes.
0:26:56 > 0:27:00'As the wine mulls gently, time to see which chestnuts have made the grade.'
0:27:00 > 0:27:02Chestnuts. I hope they're not too burnt.
0:27:02 > 0:27:05I think they might be a bit overdone.
0:27:05 > 0:27:11'Our plump French friends or their more elegant English cousins?'
0:27:11 > 0:27:14- Which one's this? English? - Yeah, that's English.
0:27:14 > 0:27:17I think the English ones are absolutely delicious.
0:27:17 > 0:27:22And I really think the bigger French ones are more and more industrial.
0:27:22 > 0:27:25I feel they have been grown for weight.
0:27:25 > 0:27:27'England one, France nil.'
0:27:27 > 0:27:33- The cooking is really a bit approximative, huh? - HE LAUGHS
0:27:33 > 0:27:40- It shows to me talent is not hereditary. At least in cooking. - THEY LAUGH
0:27:40 > 0:27:45# Chestnuts roasting on an open fire
0:27:46 > 0:27:50- Oh, that smells good. - Shall we spend the day here?
0:27:50 > 0:27:52HE LAUGHS Cheers.
0:27:54 > 0:27:57# Although it's been said
0:27:57 > 0:27:59# Many times, many ways
0:27:59 > 0:28:03# Merry Christmas
0:28:04 > 0:28:10# To you
0:28:15 > 0:28:18'In his 34 years in the UK,
0:28:18 > 0:28:21'Raymond has learnt to love a good stuffing.'
0:28:21 > 0:28:25It's a meal on its own, really. It's a big Christmas sausage.
0:28:25 > 0:28:29'And this one is full of good Christmas things and could not be more simple.
0:28:29 > 0:28:34'Stuffing like this might not be typically French, but what is a goose without it?'
0:28:35 > 0:28:42Here is really the traditional... Well, not quite, but quite traditional British stuffing
0:28:42 > 0:28:45that we're not going to put in the goose but cook separately,
0:28:45 > 0:28:50because we can control it better, it will look better and it also will be cooked.
0:28:50 > 0:28:54'Raymond is using a variety of nuts and fruits.'
0:28:54 > 0:28:58What I want is to have all the little flavours,
0:28:58 > 0:29:02bang, bing, and all these little things which just keep happening.
0:29:02 > 0:29:07'The base for the stuffing is pork sausage meat. To this, Raymond adds some soft breadcrumbs and milk.'
0:29:07 > 0:29:12A good stir to mix all these wet ingredients
0:29:12 > 0:29:15in which you will add all the lovely textures later.
0:29:15 > 0:29:20'Nothing from the goose is going to waste. Raymond is using the heart and liver in the stuffing.'
0:29:20 > 0:29:25This will add a little bit of gamey taste, stronger flavour, as well.
0:29:25 > 0:29:27And it's lovely. Nice texture, as well.
0:29:27 > 0:29:33'Next, the fruit and nuts, dried cranberries, chopped chestnuts and dried figs.'
0:29:33 > 0:29:36The last one here.
0:29:36 > 0:29:38Actually, it's for me.
0:29:40 > 0:29:41I deserve it.
0:29:44 > 0:29:49'Raymond rolls the stuffing in silver foil. This will provide even cooking.'
0:29:49 > 0:29:52We can put a bit of artwork by...
0:29:53 > 0:29:57'The stuffing goes into the oven for 30 minutes at 180 degrees.'
0:29:59 > 0:30:05The lovely, sticky, lovely, delicious sausage with all the sweet and sour elements.
0:30:05 > 0:30:07'Slice and serve with the Christmas bird.'
0:30:07 > 0:30:11I think a Frenchman would be dubious.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14He would say, "Oh, what's that? That's something I cannot recognise."
0:30:14 > 0:30:18But every British guest will love it.
0:30:18 > 0:30:20And if a Frenchman tasted it, he would love it, too.
0:30:26 > 0:30:30'There are other concessions Raymond has to make by not being in France for Christmas.'
0:30:30 > 0:30:35When you think of Christmas, you think of the turkey, you think of the goose,
0:30:35 > 0:30:39but also potato, I think that's quite important to the meal.
0:30:39 > 0:30:44- Shall we have potatoes, Adam? - 'And the humble potato is at the heart of them.'
0:30:44 > 0:30:51- Roast potatoes, yeah. - Adam is very specific. He says, "Roast potato". Why not mash?
0:30:51 > 0:30:54It's not Christmas without roast potatoes. It's tradition.
0:30:54 > 0:30:58'Golden and crisp on the outside, light and fluffy within.
0:30:58 > 0:31:01'This is Raymond's recipe for the perfect roast potato.'
0:31:01 > 0:31:05I've got here some very special potatoes. They are grown in "Lincashire".
0:31:05 > 0:31:08Lincashire? Lincolnshire. OK.
0:31:08 > 0:31:10Bloody hell. OK.
0:31:10 > 0:31:16Since potatoes are grown in Lincolnshire, it's very difficult for me to say, but...
0:31:17 > 0:31:20'Raymond is using a variety called Agria,
0:31:20 > 0:31:24'but King Edward or Maris Piper would also work well.'
0:31:24 > 0:31:27A great taste. Also, they're multi-purpose.
0:31:27 > 0:31:29I like potatoes which can do more than one thing
0:31:29 > 0:31:32and this one does great chips,
0:31:32 > 0:31:35great roast, and quite a good mash, as well.
0:31:35 > 0:31:38'For the best roast potato, even the cutting is important.'
0:31:38 > 0:31:42Try to get them as much as possible in even sizes.
0:31:42 > 0:31:48It's easy to understand. A smaller piece of potato will brown too quickly and get very dry.
0:31:48 > 0:31:53And what you want with a roast potato is a lovely crisp outside
0:31:53 > 0:31:56and that wonderful, melting inside.
0:31:59 > 0:32:02Very important stage, which I'm doing here, is removing the starch.
0:32:04 > 0:32:09'Soaking the potatoes for a few minutes will remove some of the starch from the outer layers.
0:32:09 > 0:32:11'Then they are blanched.'
0:32:11 > 0:32:16Some people roast them just like that, raw. I don't.
0:32:16 > 0:32:18When you expose the starch to heat,
0:32:18 > 0:32:21it caramelises very quickly
0:32:21 > 0:32:24and goes too brown too fast and then we can't get a proper crust.
0:32:24 > 0:32:28'Raymond puts the potatoes in fast-boiling water without salt.'
0:32:28 > 0:32:34Six potatoes will take about five minutes to six minutes maximum.
0:32:34 > 0:32:40'While the potatoes are blanched, Raymond melts 200 grams of goose fat in a 200-degree oven.
0:32:40 > 0:32:44'For crispy potatoes, it's vital that the fat is really hot.'
0:32:48 > 0:32:54I want to leave them to steam up a bit so all the moisture can go away. Voila.
0:32:55 > 0:32:59And then I'm going to call on Adam, because I'm not a pro.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02Adam is a pro about roast potatoes.
0:33:02 > 0:33:04- Adam.- Oui. - Can you give me a hand, please?
0:33:04 > 0:33:08- Can you show me that ruffling business?- Just a little...
0:33:09 > 0:33:15- And the steam's coming off, as well. Just a little bit.- That's it? C'est tout?- Oui.
0:33:15 > 0:33:18'Potatoes ruffled, it's into the hot goose fat.'
0:33:18 > 0:33:20Very gently.
0:33:20 > 0:33:24Try not to drop them, because that is quite dangerous.
0:33:24 > 0:33:27Just very close to...
0:33:30 > 0:33:36The great thing about it, you can actually have them prepared before your Christmas lunch,
0:33:36 > 0:33:40just heat them a bit in the oven, they'll still be absolutely stunning.
0:33:40 > 0:33:44With Adam's technique of ruffling potatoes.
0:33:44 > 0:33:47Lancashire potatoes. No, Lincolnshire!
0:33:47 > 0:33:52'While the potatoes are roasting, Raymond gets on with another British classic
0:33:52 > 0:33:56'that he's added to his French Christmas repertoire - sprouts.'
0:33:56 > 0:34:00We are very much in the heart of England. Beautiful buttered sprouts.
0:34:00 > 0:34:05So we're going to halve them. And again here, it depends how big they are.
0:34:05 > 0:34:12If they've been seven times frozen by the frost, they're so bitter and they're big like golf balls,
0:34:12 > 0:34:15those you need to quarter them and blanch them.
0:34:15 > 0:34:18'Raymond is going to blanch the sprouts.
0:34:18 > 0:34:21'Blanching preserves colour and flavour.
0:34:21 > 0:34:27'Simply boil for one minute, drain and then plunge into plenty of ice-cold water.
0:34:27 > 0:34:30'This technique can be used with almost any vegetable.'
0:34:30 > 0:34:32So very quick boiling. Don't boil them to death,
0:34:32 > 0:34:35because that will kill taste, texture and nutrients.
0:34:35 > 0:34:39'To add a salty nibble, some dry-cured bacon.'
0:34:39 > 0:34:45Cut into cubes. But it's good to know how salty it is. So we taste it.
0:34:48 > 0:34:51This one is so delicately smoked, I'm going to put it in raw.
0:34:51 > 0:34:55But if it's over-smoked and over-salty, blanch it first.
0:34:55 > 0:34:59'Fry the bacon gently in unsalted melted butter.
0:34:59 > 0:35:05'A few minutes before serving, saute the blanched sprouts with the buttery bacon.
0:35:07 > 0:35:12'After 40 minutes, the potatoes will be deliciously golden.
0:35:12 > 0:35:17'Drain and set aside, trying hard not to eat them all before serving to Christmas guests.
0:35:20 > 0:35:25'Traditionalists might be expecting some apple sauce to be served with the goose,
0:35:25 > 0:35:28'but Raymond has other ideas.'
0:35:28 > 0:35:33What I am going to do next is maybe a bit unusual for Christmas.
0:35:33 > 0:35:40But I find it tasty, delicious, perfectly befitting, both in terms of taste, textures and colours.
0:35:40 > 0:35:43'A little French sunshine, orange sauce.
0:35:44 > 0:35:51'Raymond zests three oranges, being careful not to take too much of the bitter white pith.
0:35:52 > 0:35:57'Next, the zest has to be boiled, both to soften the texture and flavour.'
0:35:57 > 0:36:00So we do this process from cold, and it's quite important
0:36:00 > 0:36:05because if it was hot, you seal as much of the flavour as you take it out.
0:36:05 > 0:36:10Whereas from cold, you extract the flavour, the bitterness of the orange, its strength, power.
0:36:10 > 0:36:13'It's important to use a large amount of water.'
0:36:13 > 0:36:19If you do it in a little bit of water like that, all you will do is recycle the bitterness in the skin.
0:36:19 > 0:36:25What I want to do is move it away, to have something very gentle, very gentle orange.
0:36:25 > 0:36:29'Repeat the process twice and then remove the zest.
0:36:29 > 0:36:32'It's ready when it disintegrates with a firm squeeze.'
0:36:32 > 0:36:35And you taste this, voila.
0:36:36 > 0:36:41It is delicate, slightly still bitter, that lovely orange flavour.
0:36:41 > 0:36:47All the essential oils are still there, somehow, and the bitterness has gone.
0:36:47 > 0:36:53'The zest goes into a blender. Next, 30 grams of sugar and a pinch of cayenne.'
0:36:53 > 0:36:56Ok, so half of the orange, about 50 grams.
0:36:56 > 0:37:01That will have the emulsion, because you have the solid of the orange, the juice will have the emulsion,
0:37:01 > 0:37:04and the flavour, of course.
0:37:07 > 0:37:14'To provide an unctuous base for the sauce, Raymond uses virgin olive oil, a good fruity one.'
0:37:14 > 0:37:19It's very important you go very slowly with the oil because if you go too fast, it's like mayonnaise,
0:37:19 > 0:37:25the puree will not have time to grasp all that amount of oil. It will separate.
0:37:26 > 0:37:29The flavour is really lovely.
0:37:29 > 0:37:34'Spoon into a serving dish and serve liberally with the roasted goose.'
0:37:34 > 0:37:37That little bit of tanginess, just a little bit,
0:37:37 > 0:37:41that will add a great deal to a dish. Plus a bit of surprise, as well.
0:37:46 > 0:37:51'Raymond is determined that every element of his Christmas will be as delicious as it can be.
0:37:51 > 0:37:54'And that includes what he hangs on his tree.'
0:37:54 > 0:37:58I think we should have a mini Raymond on the top of the tree.
0:37:59 > 0:38:04- I love my father. A little bit bizarre. - Not bizarre, that's the wrong word.
0:38:04 > 0:38:08'He's decided to lay down a challenge to his own personal elves,
0:38:08 > 0:38:12'also known as the first year students at Westminster Catering College.
0:38:12 > 0:38:19'Raymond is hoping they will create truly delectable decorations for his gourmet French Christmas tree.'
0:38:19 > 0:38:24- Bonjour, bonjour! - 'Raymond has a real passion for mentoring the chefs of tomorrow.
0:38:24 > 0:38:28'The seven young people in this room are very new to cooking.'
0:38:28 > 0:38:34- They've been with me for ten days. - Ten days only and you put them through incredible fire.
0:38:34 > 0:38:37- But they're all up for it. Good luck, guys.- Bonne chance.
0:38:37 > 0:38:41'The decorations range from the traditional...'
0:38:41 > 0:38:46- I'm going to make a chocolate fudge. - That's good. Are you going to caramelise it, or...- Yeah.- Fabulous.
0:38:46 > 0:38:48'..to the more adventurous.'
0:38:48 > 0:38:54- It's going to be about 15 items. - Well, you better move on because...
0:38:54 > 0:38:57'One young chef is aiming high.'
0:38:57 > 0:39:00I'm making a marzipan angel to sit on top of the tree.
0:39:00 > 0:39:03- I've got the wings here. - Isn't it going to be a bit heavy?
0:39:03 > 0:39:07I'm going to cut out the base, so it actually sits on the tree.
0:39:07 > 0:39:12'They all have just 90 minutes to create something that will really impress Raymond
0:39:12 > 0:39:16'and win the honour of decorating the Blanc Christmas tree.'
0:39:16 > 0:39:20- Oh, that's lovely. Does it taste nice? Yes?- Yes.
0:39:20 > 0:39:24Some of them were up till three o'clock last night doing these at home.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27- I feel guilty now. - I'm just really proud of them.
0:39:27 > 0:39:29Mm-hm. A bit higher.
0:39:29 > 0:39:33'Success in this kind of baking is all in the details.'
0:39:33 > 0:39:36Oh, they're pretty, they're really pretty.
0:39:36 > 0:39:42They're festive, they're fun. I think you need to hold the icing sugar for a while, just like that.
0:39:50 > 0:39:53Right, guys, can we make sure we get them on the plates?
0:39:54 > 0:39:57OK, guys, Christmas is ready.
0:39:57 > 0:40:03And I look forward to seeing those decorations to be hung downstairs on my tree.
0:40:16 > 0:40:19I think you guys have done very well.
0:40:21 > 0:40:28- What a lovely garland... - 'Of course, the decorations have to be practical as well as delicious.'
0:40:28 > 0:40:33- I love this little snowman. How are we going to hang him? - OK...- By the neck?
0:40:35 > 0:40:39- SHE LAUGHS - She is a very fat fairy.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42'But ultimately, it's all down to taste.'
0:40:42 > 0:40:47- This is the fudge. - Bullseye, I like the taste and I like the presentation.
0:40:49 > 0:40:54There's a little problem, which I thought there would be with the glass. A bit on the sticky side.
0:40:56 > 0:40:59A bit more brandy would have been nice.
0:40:59 > 0:41:02- Chef drank it. - This is really lovely.
0:41:03 > 0:41:07- Claire, I think we have a winner. - We do.- Mm-hm?- Yep.
0:41:07 > 0:41:10'Raymond has been very impressed.'
0:41:10 > 0:41:16Look at all these beautiful parcels on that tree. They look so stunning, they embellish that tree.
0:41:16 > 0:41:21And I know that my Christmas tree at home will be one of the very best Christmas trees
0:41:21 > 0:41:24and the most original one in the whole of England.
0:41:24 > 0:41:28And you have created it so I would like to thank you very much.
0:41:28 > 0:41:32There is a winner. The winner is...
0:41:37 > 0:41:40- ..Josh. - THEY CLAP
0:41:40 > 0:41:44You created something remarkably complicated,
0:41:44 > 0:41:48yet delicious, and hangs beautifully on the tree.
0:41:48 > 0:41:52- Merci. - THEY CLAP
0:41:58 > 0:42:02'It's time for Raymond to think about tempting his guests with something sweet.
0:42:02 > 0:42:07'The first dessert he is going to make is traditionally served in France on Twelfth Night.'
0:42:07 > 0:42:13This dessert is being made for the Epiphany, which is 12 days after Christmas.
0:42:13 > 0:42:16To celebrate Jesus being born.
0:42:16 > 0:42:21'Layers of golden puff pastry encase almond-centred frangipane,
0:42:21 > 0:42:25'caramelised pears and two tiny porcelain surprises.'
0:42:25 > 0:42:29And so two of these little charms
0:42:29 > 0:42:34will be hidden in the cake that I am about to make.
0:42:34 > 0:42:36'But Christmas isn't a time for rules.
0:42:36 > 0:42:41'This is a true French classic worthy of being eaten throughout the festive season,
0:42:41 > 0:42:44'La Galette Des Rois, the tart of kings.
0:42:47 > 0:42:51'First, Raymond chooses his china figurines.
0:42:51 > 0:42:54'Traditionally featuring characters from the Christmas story,
0:42:54 > 0:42:58'these favours have expanded to reflect the wider spirit of Christmas.'
0:42:58 > 0:43:04I think, maybe, I find these quite fun. A little character here.
0:43:04 > 0:43:09'Next, the filling, frangipane, also known as almond cream.
0:43:09 > 0:43:13'Raymond beats 75 grams of unsalted butter until soft.'
0:43:13 > 0:43:16Cream it well. It's quite nicely creamed. That's perfect, actually.
0:43:16 > 0:43:19'To this he adds the same amount of icing sugar...'
0:43:19 > 0:43:24It's like a storm of snow, my icing sugar.
0:43:24 > 0:43:28'..75 grams of ground almonds and a whole egg.'
0:43:28 > 0:43:35Very simple. Really, it's a masonry mix. Of course, the egg yolk gives the enrichment, the colour,
0:43:35 > 0:43:37the richness of taste and flavour.
0:43:37 > 0:43:41Those are pears, slightly caramelised, sliced,
0:43:41 > 0:43:44pan-fried quickly in a bit of sugar. That's all, OK?
0:43:44 > 0:43:49Don't overcook them, because we are going to cook again, this beautiful simple little cake.
0:43:49 > 0:43:54'Raymond spreads the frangipane mix onto a circle of puff pastry
0:43:54 > 0:43:57'and tops it with the pear.'
0:43:57 > 0:44:01Pears and almonds are, of course, really natural companions.
0:44:01 > 0:44:07'Then hide the china favours, being careful not to let the children know where they are.'
0:44:07 > 0:44:12Adam, go away so you don't know where they are. OK? Come on. Go away.
0:44:12 > 0:44:17'Cover with another layer of puff pastry and glaze.
0:44:17 > 0:44:23'Mark with a sharp knife and place in the oven at 180 degrees.
0:44:23 > 0:44:27'The galette is ready when it's risen and golden.
0:44:29 > 0:44:36'Raymond has a particularly high regard for the traditional finale to the British Christmas feast.'
0:44:36 > 0:44:42I love the British Christmas pudding, and every year, when I go to my parents',
0:44:42 > 0:44:45I always invariably bring the Christmas pudding.
0:44:45 > 0:44:50I do my brandy butter, I think it's brilliant. You die a little but who cares?
0:44:50 > 0:44:54'But today he is staying true to France.'
0:44:54 > 0:44:58I'm going to do a recipe which is very close to my heart.
0:44:58 > 0:45:04This is relatively easy to cook in your own home. Don't smile, it is really easy, OK?
0:45:04 > 0:45:08'A light iced chestnut parfait covered with fluffy whipped cream,
0:45:08 > 0:45:11'chocolate swirls and magical mushrooms.
0:45:11 > 0:45:14'This is Raymond's Buche De Noel.
0:45:17 > 0:45:21'The chestnuts Raymond is using come in two forms.
0:45:21 > 0:45:24'First, crystallised, known as marron glace.'
0:45:24 > 0:45:30The chestnuts are whole. They are slowly cooked in sugar. That is heaven.
0:45:30 > 0:45:33You break them, roughly.
0:45:34 > 0:45:40'Raymond is also using chestnut puree, both sweetened and unsweetened.'
0:45:40 > 0:45:46So far, no beating, no chopping, no grating, just open a tin. This is a good start, eh?
0:45:46 > 0:45:49Chestnut puree, 200 grams of each.
0:45:51 > 0:45:56'The chestnuts will flavour a parfait, a light ice cream that will form the buche.'
0:45:56 > 0:45:59So here I have got all the textures and the flavours,
0:45:59 > 0:46:04and here is to bring the lightness, the bulk and the taste, as well.
0:46:04 > 0:46:09'The base for the parfait is a foam made by whisking eight egg yolks,
0:46:09 > 0:46:12'100 grams of sugar, and 65 mils of water.'
0:46:14 > 0:46:19There is no effort, eh? You'll not see a drop of sweat on my forehead.
0:46:19 > 0:46:24'To this, Raymond adds the heated reserved syrup from the marron glace.'
0:46:24 > 0:46:27I need to work fast now.
0:46:27 > 0:46:33And then just by doing that, I'm cooking my eggs here to about 65 degrees.
0:46:33 > 0:46:37OK? And I make my emulsion stable.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40'A little sabayon loosens the chestnut puree.'
0:46:40 > 0:46:43A little bit, one quarter.
0:46:45 > 0:46:48'Whipped cream is folded into the cooled sabayon.'
0:46:48 > 0:46:50I just mix it nicely.
0:46:51 > 0:46:54Then, of course, you add all your chestnuts.
0:46:56 > 0:47:02This is a chestnut parfait mixture, it's ready to go into the mould to be frozen.
0:47:04 > 0:47:07Adam, can you please put that in the freezer?
0:47:07 > 0:47:12'Once frozen, Raymond covers with whipped cream...'
0:47:12 > 0:47:16Viola! It's like a piece of masonry. Very simple.
0:47:17 > 0:47:22- '..and flaked chocolate.' - Oh-la-la.
0:47:25 > 0:47:30'Now it's time for Raymond to find his inner child. He is making some toadstools.'
0:47:30 > 0:47:33- Adam?- Yeah? - Can you give me a hand, please?
0:47:33 > 0:47:39'Edible ones, of course. Marzipan, coloured red for the tops...'
0:47:39 > 0:47:41- Funny shape, it's a funny shape. - THEY LAUGH
0:47:41 > 0:47:43I'll go away and practice.
0:47:44 > 0:47:48Voila. It's quite fun. A bit of colour. OK?
0:47:48 > 0:47:51It's lovely, eh? They look very real, actually.
0:47:51 > 0:47:55- I'm quite proud of myself. - '..some chocolate swirls.'
0:47:55 > 0:47:58It might tell you a lot about yourself when you..
0:47:59 > 0:48:02'Now, time to decorate.'
0:48:03 > 0:48:07Of course, you put your little fun bits here, to scare your guests completely.
0:48:09 > 0:48:13That's about it. Some bits of chocolate.
0:48:13 > 0:48:15Just to make it Christmassy a bit.
0:48:21 > 0:48:28'Pastry chef Benoit Blin has heard about Raymond's buche. But not his love of hats.'
0:48:28 > 0:48:31- Benoit is a reindeer. - THEY LAUGH
0:48:33 > 0:48:37- Wow. That's a Christmas dish, isn't it?- That's a Christmas dish, eh?
0:48:37 > 0:48:41- You would feel at home?- Yeah. - It's a shame that you don't wear your beautiful hat.
0:48:41 > 0:48:47- Oh, that's not...- Voila! - You wear the other.- No problem.
0:48:47 > 0:48:51- When I am feeling bullish, I go for it, you know?- Yeah.
0:48:55 > 0:48:59For me, it's one of the very best Christmas desserts you can possibly have.
0:48:59 > 0:49:02- And it is so simple to provide. - Yeah.
0:49:02 > 0:49:07- Benoit, it is a nice chef's hat. - Thank you, I shall keep it. - Are you going to give me a kiss?
0:49:07 > 0:49:12- I'll give you a hug.- Very happy Christmas.- You, too.- Merci.
0:49:12 > 0:49:17'There are some Christmas traditions that it is very hard for a Frenchman to give up.
0:49:17 > 0:49:21'And one of them is the notion that the only bubbles to be served at Christmas
0:49:21 > 0:49:24'come in a bottle from Champagne.
0:49:24 > 0:49:29'But Raymond is not one of those Frenchmen, and in the spirit of a Christmas Entente Cordiale,
0:49:29 > 0:49:34'he's come to Cornwall to search out some English sparkling wine.'
0:49:34 > 0:49:39Every time you hear a cork of champagne popping or sparkling wine,
0:49:39 > 0:49:43it is about feast, it's about a happy moment, about celebration.
0:49:43 > 0:49:50To me, there is very few sounds which are as happy as that. Pop! Pop!
0:49:50 > 0:49:55Fantastic! My sons called me Pop. That's quite interesting.
0:49:55 > 0:49:57Bonjour.
0:49:57 > 0:50:02'Bob Lindo is an ex-RAF pilot who first planted vines in 1989.
0:50:02 > 0:50:08'Winner of numerous prizes in the years since, this area suits the vines perfectly.'
0:50:08 > 0:50:14They get so warm here, they face due south, with a nice amphitheatre, we have protection.
0:50:14 > 0:50:17- It's dramatic. It's wonderful. - It is dramatic.
0:50:17 > 0:50:21If anybody thinks you can't grow grapes in Cornwall, look at those. You can.
0:50:22 > 0:50:27'The success of Camel Valley Wines is all down to hard graft.
0:50:27 > 0:50:30'And the challenging work has paid off.'
0:50:30 > 0:50:32I read somewhere in 2009,
0:50:32 > 0:50:37at the Italian World Championship of Grapes, you came number one.
0:50:37 > 0:50:41- I couldn't believe it.- Above the French!- I know! We were so happy.
0:50:41 > 0:50:44I still get a tear in my eye, I get it now, I can't help it.
0:50:44 > 0:50:48An emotional British man, that's wonderful. I love that.
0:50:48 > 0:50:52'It's harvest time and Raymond hasn't come a day too soon.'
0:50:52 > 0:50:57- I think, Bob, they need to be picked today.- Yeah. This is the day. Tomorrow is too late.
0:50:57 > 0:51:02- Voila. Oh-la-la. Beautiful. - Oh, look at this bunch. Fantastic, isn't it?
0:51:02 > 0:51:06- Lovely flavour, lovely acidity.- This is a year's work for many people.
0:51:06 > 0:51:09But why don't we grow more grapes in Great Britain?
0:51:09 > 0:51:15I think it's very, very hard to match the yields of France and Italy and Germany.
0:51:15 > 0:51:19- We can complete on quality. - You can compete on quality, that's a big thing.
0:51:19 > 0:51:24'The grapes being harvested today are Dornfelder, well-suited to the British climate.'
0:51:25 > 0:51:27- My son, Sam. - Sam, pleased to meet you.
0:51:27 > 0:51:30'Bob's son Sam is now in charge of wine making.'
0:51:30 > 0:51:35I think in England, the thing that we have that no-one else has is magical acidity.
0:51:35 > 0:51:39Because of the cold, you have much less flavour, and less colour, and less tannin,
0:51:39 > 0:51:42which is excellent for sparkling wine.
0:51:42 > 0:51:46- Well, we've got to do some work. - Yes. Here we go. - 'Time to pick some grapes.'
0:51:49 > 0:51:54Raymond, if you look now, we have in there, two bottles of wine.
0:51:54 > 0:51:59- I was in a Burgundy vineyard from the age of seven, so... - Oh, he knows, he knows.
0:52:02 > 0:52:06Ooh-la-la. A problem here.
0:52:06 > 0:52:10- I leave you the hard ones, sir. - Yeah, I know. I noticed that.
0:52:10 > 0:52:13- Then he'll leave it for me. - THEY LAUGH
0:52:13 > 0:52:17'Hard work over, it's time for a spot of breakfast.
0:52:17 > 0:52:20'Locally caught smoked salmon...'
0:52:20 > 0:52:22That is strong. Lovely.
0:52:22 > 0:52:25- '..scrambled eggs...'- Lovely colour.
0:52:25 > 0:52:28- '..sparkling wine...' - What a lovely pop.
0:52:28 > 0:52:31'..it's just like Christmas morning.'
0:52:34 > 0:52:36- Voila.- Cheers.- Cheers.
0:52:39 > 0:52:43'Raymond is going to end his Christmas feast with a work of art.'
0:52:43 > 0:52:46Ah, the garnishes, yeah?
0:52:46 > 0:52:50'A wintery forest floor of chocolate tuile,
0:52:50 > 0:52:53'chestnut parfait mushrooms and intricate chocolate leaves.'
0:52:53 > 0:52:59I always love the idea of a dessert which smiles at you, which makes you smile.
0:52:59 > 0:53:03'This is Raymond's chocolate and chestnut Winter Still Life.
0:53:04 > 0:53:12'First, the mushroom tops. Raymond is using the same chestnut parfait he made for the Buche de Noel.'
0:53:12 > 0:53:15The whole idea was to recreate a lovely mushroom.
0:53:15 > 0:53:18You could use that mould, individually, it would work well.
0:53:18 > 0:53:22'For the stalks, meringue.'
0:53:22 > 0:53:27Just pipe it, very simply, cook it in the oven and you just put them in.
0:53:27 > 0:53:31'The upside-down mushrooms now need to be frozen.'
0:53:31 > 0:53:36It's a fantastic dessert because effectively you can prepare it two weeks in advance if you wish.
0:53:36 > 0:53:39All the work has been really done before.
0:53:39 > 0:53:42'Raymond creates the forest floor.'
0:53:42 > 0:53:46It's a very loose recipe, and has those wonderful textures, you know?
0:53:46 > 0:53:49And a lot of it you can actually buy in a pastry shop.
0:53:51 > 0:53:56- 'First some chocolate sauce.' - I want a lovely smooth, light sauce.
0:53:56 > 0:54:00I want the chocolate to completely disappear.
0:54:00 > 0:54:05'Now, carefully placed layers of tuile biscuits and grated chocolate.'
0:54:05 > 0:54:09It's all about that floor which has decayed on that forest.
0:54:09 > 0:54:12I do all crunchy flavours.
0:54:12 > 0:54:15'Raymond's Christmas favourite, marron glace.'
0:54:15 > 0:54:18Without marron glace, Christmas would never be the same.
0:54:18 > 0:54:20We always have them at Christmas.
0:54:20 > 0:54:24'Forest floor deliciously littered, now set it aside.'
0:54:24 > 0:54:30This forest floor can be prepared at least one hour or two or three hours in advance.
0:54:30 > 0:54:33No problem. Nothing will happen to it.
0:54:33 > 0:54:36Put it on the side in your probably bedroom,
0:54:36 > 0:54:40because you haven't enough space in your kitchen.
0:54:40 > 0:54:47'Just before serving, remove the frozen mushrooms from their moulds and dust with cocoa.'
0:54:47 > 0:54:51It's important you put it on the plate totally hard frozen
0:54:51 > 0:54:54because within quarter of an hour,
0:54:54 > 0:55:00the chestnut puree will be velvety smooth, silky, melting, OK?
0:55:00 > 0:55:05Voila. Perfectly formed little mushroom.
0:55:05 > 0:55:10It just looks like it's been picked this morning. I hope it will put a little smile on your face, as well.
0:55:15 > 0:55:19'The goose is golden, the seafood is succulent,
0:55:19 > 0:55:23'the tart is risen and the potatoes are perfect.'
0:55:23 > 0:55:25Christmas is an exhausting business, no?
0:55:25 > 0:55:28'Time to see if the hard work has paid off.
0:55:28 > 0:55:32'Raymond's guests are beginning to arrive.'
0:55:32 > 0:55:35# It's the most wonderful time of the year
0:55:37 > 0:55:43'Close family and friends are all here for a Christmas feast to remember.'
0:55:43 > 0:55:46- He loves me, yeah? - 'To get the party started,
0:55:46 > 0:55:50'English sparkling wine with the freshest Cornish oysters.'
0:55:50 > 0:55:54# It's the hap-happiest season
0:55:54 > 0:55:57Guys! It's coming! Christmas dinner is coming!
0:55:57 > 0:56:03- Seafood. Plateau de fruits de mer! Ooh-la-la!- 'A spectacular beginning to the feast.'
0:56:03 > 0:56:08# It's the hap-happiest season of all
0:56:08 > 0:56:13Raymond, the lobster was gorgeous. Really sweet, succulent. Just perfectly cooked.
0:56:16 > 0:56:21- And here's the goose! - With that, a little orange puree.
0:56:24 > 0:56:26It's very special, OK, guys? I hope you enjoy it.
0:56:34 > 0:56:36What did you think of that goose? Honestly?
0:56:36 > 0:56:40- It's a really good goose.- You are saying it's well-cooked, too.
0:56:40 > 0:56:43Yeah, it probably had something to do with it.
0:56:46 > 0:56:49'Time for something sweet, the Galette Des Rois.'
0:56:54 > 0:56:57That's for Raymond. Cos I can have every chance to win.
0:57:00 > 0:57:03THEY CHEER
0:57:03 > 0:57:07- Hail the King!- ALL: Hail the King! - Hail the King!
0:57:10 > 0:57:15'A light and cooling finale, the chestnut and chocolate Winter Still Life.'
0:57:21 > 0:57:23ALL: Cheers!
0:57:25 > 0:57:28Thank you very much, chef, for joining our table.
0:57:28 > 0:57:33Wonderful father, Papa, thank you so much for this beautiful food. Bless you, love you and thank you.
0:57:33 > 0:57:36Thank you. Thank you.
0:57:39 > 0:57:42THEY SING CHRISTMAS CAROLS
0:57:42 > 0:57:48'The Great Milton carol singers, a musical end to Raymond's Christmas feast,'
0:57:57 > 0:57:59Come in! Come in!
0:58:02 > 0:58:05Hello, everyone. Thank you very much. Please do come in.
0:58:09 > 0:58:12Be careful, it's very hot. It's very hot.
0:58:12 > 0:58:16That was lovely. OK. Voila.
0:58:16 > 0:58:21Oh, well, look at that. It's a lovely treat made by my young English apprentice.
0:58:21 > 0:58:25OK, that's for you. There's a sweet inside.
0:58:25 > 0:58:28The dog has already eaten five of them.
0:58:33 > 0:58:35ALL: Cheers!
0:58:35 > 0:58:41On behalf of all my friends here, I would like to wish you a merry, merry Christmas.
0:58:44 > 0:58:47MAN SINGS WHITE CHRISTMAS IN FRENCH
0:58:59 > 0:59:03Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:59:03 > 0:59:07E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk
0:59:07 > 0:59:07.