0:00:02 > 0:00:03'Six cooks... SHE LAUGHS
0:00:03 > 0:00:05'..six countries,
0:00:05 > 0:00:07'six incredible journeys.'
0:00:07 > 0:00:09THEY CHEER
0:00:09 > 0:00:10Ah!
0:00:10 > 0:00:13'Stepping outside their comfort zones...'
0:00:14 > 0:00:17It's not for the faint-hearted for sure.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20'..our cooks will travel far and wide...'
0:00:20 > 0:00:22Route 7 all the way.
0:00:23 > 0:00:27'..to find some of the most exciting food on the planet.'
0:00:27 > 0:00:28If you're back in the UK,
0:00:28 > 0:00:31you've got Tandoori chicken, nothing like this.
0:00:32 > 0:00:35It's beautiful. This is the best food I've had in Egypt.
0:00:35 > 0:00:39It's pure, it's got heritage, it's got love in it, you know.
0:00:39 > 0:00:41'They'll go off the beaten track...'
0:00:41 > 0:00:44Crocodile! Crocodile sausages.
0:00:44 > 0:00:47'..meeting extraordinary people... THEY CHANT
0:00:48 > 0:00:51'..exploring ways of life unchanged for centuries.'
0:00:51 > 0:00:55No electric blenders in the jungle, have to do everything by hand.
0:00:57 > 0:00:59Take your life into your own hands, we're on the road now.
0:01:00 > 0:01:03'As they travel, they'll see how the language of food
0:01:03 > 0:01:05'transcends cultural differences.'
0:01:05 > 0:01:07I've never huffed on a cheese before.
0:01:07 > 0:01:09'And a world away from home.'
0:01:09 > 0:01:12This is why I love Australia.
0:01:12 > 0:01:14- There's no excuse for a bad pie in Australia.- No.
0:01:14 > 0:01:16This is the beginning. Where do we end?
0:01:16 > 0:01:20'They'll learn lessons that could change the way we cook forever.'
0:01:20 > 0:01:24I've been cooking a barbecue wrongly all my life.
0:01:25 > 0:01:26Wow!
0:01:32 > 0:01:35'This time, Scottish chef Tony Singh heads to India
0:01:35 > 0:01:39'to explore the country of his ancestors.'
0:01:39 > 0:01:41And it feels fantastic.
0:01:41 > 0:01:44'He'll eat and cook his way across the region.'
0:01:45 > 0:01:47I'm not good at this cooking lark.
0:01:47 > 0:01:50'From the Punjabi pit stops,
0:01:50 > 0:01:52'to the tables of the maharajahs.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56'He'll find his way to the heart of his own family's history...'
0:01:57 > 0:02:00I can't even imagine what hardships they went through.
0:02:00 > 0:02:03'..and unleash his inner Bollywood star.'
0:02:12 > 0:02:14I'm Tony Singh.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18People see me as an Indian because this is the quintessential look
0:02:18 > 0:02:22of an Indian from the maharajah - turban, beard, lovely tan.
0:02:23 > 0:02:26But I was born in Scotland and I've lived here all my life.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30And now I want to see if I can fit in in India.
0:02:30 > 0:02:33I want to go and immerse myself in India
0:02:33 > 0:02:35and see if I can get away with it.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39I've been in the restaurant business for 22 years.
0:02:39 > 0:02:43My style of food is not curry.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46I'm a classically-trained chef.
0:02:46 > 0:02:49It's always been about local produce, Scottish produce,
0:02:49 > 0:02:50French technique.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53What I do know about Indian food comes from my mum
0:02:53 > 0:02:55and even she's a Glaswegian born and bred.
0:02:55 > 0:02:58I was chopping onions, and one of your cousin's sisters went,
0:02:58 > 0:03:01- "No, we don't chop them like that." - No, that's right.- You know?
0:03:01 > 0:03:04But I want to find out about more than just food,
0:03:04 > 0:03:07my mission is personal.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10Every time I speak to my parents, I'm finding out something new
0:03:10 > 0:03:13about how they came to be in Scotland.
0:03:13 > 0:03:17Everybody left, everything, all the belongings, the houses - everything.
0:03:17 > 0:03:21My knowledge of my family history now is about that.
0:03:21 > 0:03:24It's like my knowledge of Punjabi foods is like that
0:03:24 > 0:03:28because it's vast and this journey, this trip of discovery
0:03:28 > 0:03:29is going to be for both.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34My family story begins in 1947
0:03:34 > 0:03:38when the country was divided into Pakistan and India,
0:03:38 > 0:03:39the partition.
0:03:40 > 0:03:44I'm heading to the north-western state of Punjab,
0:03:44 > 0:03:48home of the Sikh religion and where my dad's family are from,
0:03:48 > 0:03:51and I'm starting my journey in Amritsar.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58I've only been to India twice in my life
0:03:58 > 0:04:00and those were fleeting visits...
0:04:01 > 0:04:03..so this is going to be a huge adventure
0:04:03 > 0:04:06and a chance to see if I can really fit in.
0:04:08 > 0:04:10HORNS HONK
0:04:10 > 0:04:13This is it, this is what I expected to hit me
0:04:13 > 0:04:18as soon as I walked out of the airport, and it feels fantastic.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25You take your life into your own hands, we're on the road now.
0:04:26 > 0:04:27I'm just so excited.
0:04:27 > 0:04:30I'm here to find out about authentic Punjabi food.
0:04:30 > 0:04:33To see the real thing, hear the stories,
0:04:33 > 0:04:36find out how it's changed, how the history, how the land,
0:04:36 > 0:04:39how the people have shaped the cooking, the techniques,
0:04:39 > 0:04:42the ingredients that I call my own.
0:04:44 > 0:04:48I'm in the holy city of Amritsar, the spiritual home of Sikhism.
0:04:50 > 0:04:54It's the eve of the most important religious festival of the year -
0:04:54 > 0:04:56Diwali, the Festival of Lights.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02But after two planes, a hairy rickshaw ride...
0:05:02 > 0:05:04- HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI - Thank you.
0:05:04 > 0:05:09..I'm cream crackered, and tomorrow I have an early start.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20It's Diwali, or Bandi Chhor Divas for Sikhs,
0:05:20 > 0:05:23and I'm getting ready for the Golden Temple.
0:05:25 > 0:05:30My worry right now apart from getting to temple, to the gurdwara,
0:05:30 > 0:05:32is what I'm going to wear, what shirt I'm going to wear
0:05:32 > 0:05:35because everybody's going to be dressed up,
0:05:35 > 0:05:37it's going to be fantastic.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40You get there, it's the beginning of the year,
0:05:40 > 0:05:42you know what I mean, it's that whole thing of...
0:05:42 > 0:05:44Yeah, it's a fresh start, it's good.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53As I join other pilgrims on their way to the golden temple
0:05:53 > 0:05:55the atmosphere is electric.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00The butterflies are starting. I'm so excited.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03Do you know what I mean, it's just that thing of anticipation,
0:06:03 > 0:06:06it's just...you can't explain it.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08Wow! My childhood heroes.
0:06:09 > 0:06:11HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:06:11 > 0:06:14The Nihang, Sikh warriors.
0:06:14 > 0:06:17And I've not met them, I've not seen them in person.
0:06:17 > 0:06:20HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:06:20 > 0:06:21It's surreal for me.
0:06:24 > 0:06:26You can just feel it coming up to you,
0:06:26 > 0:06:28there's just something about it.
0:06:28 > 0:06:30You can hear the madness behind you and the hubbub,
0:06:30 > 0:06:33and everybody's coming in, but they're taking their own time,
0:06:33 > 0:06:34they're just quietening down.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37They know they're going somewhere divine.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43As a Sikh on Diwali, this is the place,
0:06:43 > 0:06:45this is the centre of Sikhism.
0:06:45 > 0:06:47To come during Diwali, you're a lucky person
0:06:47 > 0:06:49and I'm a very lucky person to be here.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07The Golden Temple is a breathtaking sight.
0:07:10 > 0:07:14It has four entrances to show that all are welcome
0:07:14 > 0:07:17regardless of faith, gender or caste.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22The whole complex is sacred and pilgrims from all over the world
0:07:22 > 0:07:23come here to worship.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32Langar, or communal eating,
0:07:32 > 0:07:34is a cornerstone of the Sikh faith
0:07:34 > 0:07:37and a major part of the celebrations.
0:07:37 > 0:07:40The food is free and the operation is run by volunteers.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46One of the greatest honours for any Sikh is to do service,
0:07:46 > 0:07:50and most of the work is done in silence as a sign of respect.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55There may be an army of washer-uppers
0:07:55 > 0:07:57but that's because the kitchen
0:07:57 > 0:07:59will feed over half a million pilgrims today.
0:08:03 > 0:08:07To cope with the numbers, food is cooked in massive cauldrons.
0:08:07 > 0:08:11I've been told this one holds 400 kilos of lentil dhal.
0:08:15 > 0:08:19Bread, rather than rice, is the staple food of Punjab
0:08:19 > 0:08:24and here they can churn out over 20,000 wheat flour rotis an hour.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26That is one of the cornerstones of our faith.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30It's simple fare where everybody is treated equal.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33You sit on the floor and you don't care who's sitting next to you,
0:08:33 > 0:08:35it's always vegetarian,
0:08:35 > 0:08:38it's always something that anybody can afford.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42This is the most amazing thing about Punjabi food,
0:08:42 > 0:08:46it's so interlinked with the tenets of Sikhism.
0:08:46 > 0:08:49Kirt karo, vand chhako, naam japo,
0:08:49 > 0:08:53which is honest work, then share what you have,
0:08:53 > 0:08:55and then meditate on God.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01The Golden Temple, it's like the Vatican for Catholics.
0:09:01 > 0:09:04There's no other place like it, it's awe-inspiring.
0:09:07 > 0:09:11I've seen how the Golden Temple feeds the masses,
0:09:11 > 0:09:15but how do people do Diwali on a more modest scale at home?
0:09:16 > 0:09:19Well, I've been invited to celebrate this special occasion
0:09:19 > 0:09:22with a family who live on the other side of town.
0:09:22 > 0:09:25It's a real honour, so I'm not coming empty-handed.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31And in good tradition I'm taking sweets,
0:09:31 > 0:09:35and these ones I've made myself because it's very auspicious.
0:09:35 > 0:09:37THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI
0:09:37 > 0:09:40Hi, happy Diwali. Happy Diwali.
0:09:40 > 0:09:44In the Punjabi tradition, pouring mustard oil to welcome guests
0:09:44 > 0:09:45is a ritual.
0:09:45 > 0:09:46Happy Diwali.
0:09:49 > 0:09:53And I am indeed welcomed by the whole extended family.
0:09:54 > 0:09:56I've just made that from Scotland,
0:09:56 > 0:09:59so it's shortbread and tablet like barfi.
0:09:59 > 0:10:02So, I'm here to learn something in the kitchen.
0:10:07 > 0:10:08Karandeep, what do you like?
0:10:08 > 0:10:10What's your favourite dish your mum cooks for you?
0:10:12 > 0:10:13Is that what we're making now?
0:10:13 > 0:10:15- Yes.- That's kidney beans? - Yeah, it's beans.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18Yeah, it's going to be with rice, which is quite interesting
0:10:18 > 0:10:21because in Punjab, they just eat lots of bread,
0:10:21 > 0:10:23so this rice dish is Karendeep's favourite,
0:10:23 > 0:10:24that's what I'm going to get shown.
0:10:26 > 0:10:27How often do you help in the kitchen?
0:10:32 > 0:10:35But now, you see that, it makes you more eligible to get married.
0:10:36 > 0:10:41TRANSLATION:
0:10:41 > 0:10:42THEY LAUGH
0:10:44 > 0:10:46- OK.- OK.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49We're ready to go into the kitchen.
0:10:49 > 0:10:51We're making a red kidney bean curry
0:10:51 > 0:10:55and we're starting with a Punjabi cooking staple -
0:10:55 > 0:10:57mustard oil, and lots of it.
0:10:57 > 0:11:00Right, so, that's a fantastic tip I never knew,
0:11:00 > 0:11:03you can still smell the mustard oil.
0:11:03 > 0:11:06When it's at temperature, you won't smell it. OK.
0:11:09 > 0:11:13So that's going in, that's going to take 10-15 minutes to brown.
0:11:13 > 0:11:17Once the onions have softened, we add garlic and ginger paste.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23So I'm getting the green chillies.
0:11:23 > 0:11:25Going in to the magic mincer with the tomatoes.
0:11:25 > 0:11:28And there's only three chillies going in,
0:11:28 > 0:11:30and this gets away from the fact that everything should be hot
0:11:30 > 0:11:33and mad spicy - it's not, it's aromatic and tasty.
0:11:33 > 0:11:35SHE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:11:35 > 0:11:38Auntie said to me, "Is this how I do it back home?" I said I've got
0:11:38 > 0:11:41a wee boy that does it for me, or a commis, or an electric machine.
0:11:41 > 0:11:42THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI
0:11:42 > 0:11:45No. Change now, you're going to be doing this, ah?
0:11:45 > 0:11:50And you'll find a spice box like this in every Punjabi kitchen
0:11:50 > 0:11:54with the flavour essentials for most dishes - garam masala,
0:11:54 > 0:11:57salt, turmeric and two types of chilli.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59OK.
0:11:59 > 0:12:00That's it ready.
0:12:02 > 0:12:03That's it there.
0:12:03 > 0:12:05And this is...
0:12:07 > 0:12:09So we've got kidney beans that have been soaked
0:12:09 > 0:12:11and cooked in a pressure cooker with two teaspoons of salt.
0:12:14 > 0:12:17Most Punjabis are vegetarian, and simple veggie dishes
0:12:17 > 0:12:20like this are the mainstay of family feasts.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27Outside, things are getting lively.
0:12:30 > 0:12:33But for now I'm taking a more sedate approach
0:12:33 > 0:12:35to the Festival of Light.
0:12:38 > 0:12:39Yes. Old, yeah.
0:12:45 > 0:12:46I'm missing home now.
0:12:46 > 0:12:48We do the same but it's with tealights.
0:12:48 > 0:12:50It's one of the things that the kids love doing,
0:12:50 > 0:12:52lighting them with me and putting them round the house,
0:12:52 > 0:12:53so I'm feeling a bit sad.
0:13:01 > 0:13:02Happy Diwali.
0:13:02 > 0:13:06I may be feeling homesick but that's soon cured by the warm welcome.
0:13:08 > 0:13:11Diwali here is like the Christmas holidays back in the UK,
0:13:11 > 0:13:14filled with family, friends, gifts...
0:13:16 > 0:13:18..and of course food.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24For Diwali we do the same, we have the fireworks,
0:13:24 > 0:13:26we have our diyas tied to the house.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31This is like being in my own home.
0:13:32 > 0:13:36As it's a special occasion, we're having a rice dish
0:13:36 > 0:13:38rather than the Punjabi staple - bread.
0:13:40 > 0:13:44Unlike Christmas, there isn't one traditional Diwali meal,
0:13:44 > 0:13:46so people eat whatever they like.
0:13:47 > 0:13:50The red kidney beans taste fantastic
0:13:50 > 0:13:52and even remind me of my mum's cooking,
0:13:52 > 0:13:54so simple but full of flavour.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58Now, though, it's play time.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04Stand back from the fireworks, eh?
0:14:04 > 0:14:0650 yards. I don't think so.
0:14:06 > 0:14:08And like at home, I'm only allowed the sparklers.
0:14:25 > 0:14:28The amazing thing today was that sense of family,
0:14:28 > 0:14:32sharing and eating, it's exactly what we do at home.
0:14:32 > 0:14:35Fireworks maybe not to that scale, but sitting down
0:14:35 > 0:14:38with your family, I mean, it's so special.
0:14:38 > 0:14:41And the flavours, the flavours I've been having at home,
0:14:41 > 0:14:44it's true Punjabi flavours and they're the same here.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47I think that's one of the things that's made me connect
0:14:47 > 0:14:48and feel at home.
0:15:04 > 0:15:08After last night's celebrations, I can't believe I'm hungry again.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12But it's not surprising, everywhere I look there's delicious food.
0:15:16 > 0:15:17Just seen an elephant,
0:15:17 > 0:15:19somebody nearly getting squished at the roundabout
0:15:19 > 0:15:22and this is before breakfast, but that's what I'm here for.
0:15:22 > 0:15:25I'm on Lawrence Road, I'm starving
0:15:25 > 0:15:27and I want to find out what we have for breakfast in Punjab,
0:15:27 > 0:15:29and I've been told there's a cracking place
0:15:29 > 0:15:31just round the corner.
0:15:34 > 0:15:35See that, look at that.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38So that's a dough but he's stuffing it with lentils.
0:15:42 > 0:15:44He's making puri.
0:15:44 > 0:15:46It's a deep-fried bread.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49- HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI - Vegetable...
0:15:50 > 0:15:52Clarified butter.
0:15:52 > 0:15:53Wow, look at that.
0:15:53 > 0:15:55HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:15:56 > 0:15:59This is a thing that you have for breakfast, eh?
0:15:59 > 0:16:01Oh, OK, thank you.
0:16:01 > 0:16:04Best place to get puri chana is Khanna St, just there,
0:16:04 > 0:16:06so that's where we're off to.
0:16:12 > 0:16:15No need for a menu here, there's only one thing on offer.
0:16:18 > 0:16:19And this is what it's about,
0:16:19 > 0:16:22puri chole, this is what they have for breakfast.
0:16:22 > 0:16:24That's what I call a puri. Thank you.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26That's a aloo sabji - potatoes,
0:16:26 > 0:16:31and that's the chole - that's the chickpeas, sliced onions and pickle.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35That's feather light, should feel...
0:16:35 > 0:16:36It's just...
0:16:42 > 0:16:44That's lovely.
0:16:44 > 0:16:45The chickpeas melt in your mouth.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49Wow. So this is it, bread.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52Most people think Indian food's rice.
0:16:52 > 0:16:54North of India, the bread basket of India.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57In Punjab we have all these different breads -
0:16:57 > 0:16:59puri, roti, roomali, roti and naan.
0:16:59 > 0:17:01And you eat it with your fingers.
0:17:01 > 0:17:03This is your implement, there's no forks or knives,
0:17:03 > 0:17:06this is what it's all about.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09You only pay 35 pence per puri,
0:17:09 > 0:17:12the rest is all you can eat Punjabi style,
0:17:12 > 0:17:14and the refills keep on coming.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17You either have to eat quick and get out
0:17:17 > 0:17:20or I'm going to have to be rude and say, "Stop."
0:17:20 > 0:17:21This is wonderful.
0:17:27 > 0:17:28Oh, that's me.
0:17:28 > 0:17:31Just had my first Punjabi breakfast.
0:17:31 > 0:17:34You can still feel the clarified butter dripping down your throat,
0:17:34 > 0:17:38this is food to do things on not sit around an office.
0:17:38 > 0:17:41Just as well, I have a packed day ahead.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44First, I'm off to look for my ancestral home,
0:17:44 > 0:17:46the house that belonged to my great-grandfather.
0:17:50 > 0:17:56In 1947, after over a century of colonial rule, Britain gave
0:17:56 > 0:18:02India independence and split Punjab into two - India and Pakistan.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06The area around the newly-created border was volatile
0:18:06 > 0:18:09and Amritsar became a dangerous and violent place to live.
0:18:11 > 0:18:14My great-grandparents joined the millions forced to flee to the
0:18:14 > 0:18:19safety of Delhi, and I want to find the house they left behind.
0:18:19 > 0:18:22I know it's in Sultanwind Gate, which is that way,
0:18:22 > 0:18:24but I need to get my skates on and get along there
0:18:24 > 0:18:26before I get mashed up.
0:18:30 > 0:18:34Sultanwind Gate, right, so we're in the right area,
0:18:34 > 0:18:36I've got the name of the street, Fatawaligali.
0:18:36 > 0:18:42HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:18:42 > 0:18:43Shukria.
0:18:43 > 0:18:46Armed with some clues, I want to see how my family used to live...
0:18:48 > 0:18:51..if I can survive long enough to find the house.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54That's mental. It's OK, man, nothing,
0:18:54 > 0:18:56just a brown man crossing the street. That's mad.
0:18:56 > 0:18:57But show no fear, eh, done it.
0:18:59 > 0:19:01Right, Sultanwind Gate.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06No street names, so I'm a bit stuck.
0:19:06 > 0:19:09It's time to put my best Scottish-Punjabi to the test.
0:19:09 > 0:19:11Fatawaligali.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14SHE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:19:17 > 0:19:20A foundry inside a built-up area.
0:19:22 > 0:19:24Thank you.
0:19:24 > 0:19:26It's 70 years ago, so they don't know where it is
0:19:26 > 0:19:29but I've been asked in for tea, that's Punjabi hospitality.
0:19:30 > 0:19:35THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI
0:19:44 > 0:19:47I can't bel... Well, this is it, this is where it started from.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50I'm a bit speechless, actually, because this is the beginning,
0:19:50 > 0:19:52this is my great-grandad's house.
0:19:59 > 0:20:05HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:20:08 > 0:20:10After some explaining, this lovely family
0:20:10 > 0:20:13are letting this crazy Scot into their home.
0:20:13 > 0:20:17My great-grandad was here, and during partition they moved out.
0:20:17 > 0:20:19They got pushed down to Delhi, and then my grandad
0:20:19 > 0:20:22went to Scotland, so I was born and raised in Scotland.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29It's just...that feeling, you know, it's...
0:20:29 > 0:20:32Don't know. It's quite... tingle in the tummy.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35You can see the changes but they're not huge, you know what I mean?
0:20:35 > 0:20:38I think probably this is, in its essence, the same.
0:20:47 > 0:20:49My gran used to say they used to go across the rooftops,
0:20:49 > 0:20:51so obviously this has been built on.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54But seeing it first-hand and being told how it was so different,
0:20:54 > 0:20:56and even though it's changed a bit,
0:20:56 > 0:20:58you can still see them sitting out here.
0:20:59 > 0:21:02But what an upheaval for partition, when India got divided into
0:21:02 > 0:21:05India and Pakistan, to leave everything behind
0:21:05 > 0:21:06and get pushed down.
0:21:06 > 0:21:10All the refugees, it was one of the biggest movements of people ever.
0:21:10 > 0:21:12But most people thought they were coming back.
0:21:12 > 0:21:15My great-grandad never came back. They never came back to the house.
0:21:15 > 0:21:16CAT MEOWS
0:21:17 > 0:21:20One of the things that always goes through your head -
0:21:20 > 0:21:22if the partition never happened,
0:21:22 > 0:21:24this is where I would have been brought up, most likely.
0:21:26 > 0:21:27Yeah, not a bad life.
0:21:29 > 0:21:32I'm grateful to this family for giving me a glimpse of
0:21:32 > 0:21:34how my great-grandparents used to live.
0:21:34 > 0:21:36HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:21:36 > 0:21:37Time for a memento.
0:21:39 > 0:21:41HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:21:41 > 0:21:44Got my picture taken, quite a few of them actually.
0:21:44 > 0:21:47Some with my head, some without my head, but I'm just chuffed.
0:21:47 > 0:21:49So I'm off now on another adventure.
0:21:54 > 0:21:59The sun might go down but the eating and the madness never stops.
0:21:59 > 0:22:01You don't see that every day, eh?
0:22:01 > 0:22:04Ha! Elephant, you'd think they'd have lights on it, though.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12Six, half six, that's ten hours till my breakfast.
0:22:12 > 0:22:15I didn't have lunch, but that's the essence of Punjabi food
0:22:15 > 0:22:17is to keep you going, but now I'm hungry.
0:22:19 > 0:22:22I'm meeting a local food blogger - Jaideep.
0:22:23 > 0:22:26He's promised to take me on a food crawl of Amritsar
0:22:26 > 0:22:30and introduce me to a local custom called car-o-bar.
0:22:30 > 0:22:31I'm intrigued.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34Fantastic, thanks for talking to me online about everything.
0:22:34 > 0:22:37- Not a problem, not a problem. - How do you... Why are you online?
0:22:37 > 0:22:39I was amazed I found your blog and everything.
0:22:39 > 0:22:40What's your passion about?
0:22:42 > 0:22:43Yeah.>
0:22:46 > 0:22:47Right.
0:22:51 > 0:22:53Yeah, and this is the thing, car-o-bar.
0:22:54 > 0:22:56Shown, OK. Show me.
0:22:57 > 0:22:59- Right. OK.- Let's go.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08They might hold on to old traditions here
0:23:08 > 0:23:11but I think I'm about to discover their enthusiasm
0:23:11 > 0:23:12for new ones too.
0:23:14 > 0:23:16Right.
0:23:16 > 0:23:17Yes.
0:23:19 > 0:23:21THEY LAUGH
0:23:21 > 0:23:23- Car-o-bar.- Car-o-bar.
0:23:23 > 0:23:24And what's this?
0:23:27 > 0:23:29Why rum? Is that because of the sugar cane?
0:23:31 > 0:23:35There you go, rite of passage anywhere in the world, cheap drink.
0:23:35 > 0:23:36Cheap drink. Start pouring.
0:23:36 > 0:23:37Crack it open, OK.
0:23:39 > 0:23:42So, who's the unlucky person that drives the car-o-bar?
0:23:43 > 0:23:45So what are you on, soda?
0:23:47 > 0:23:48- Go for it.- Go for it.
0:23:52 > 0:23:53And then?
0:23:55 > 0:23:57Right. OK.
0:24:01 > 0:24:03OK, repeat till you fall over.
0:24:03 > 0:24:04There you go.
0:24:06 > 0:24:08They might not serve alcohol at these stalls
0:24:08 > 0:24:11but the food is meant to be out of this world.
0:24:17 > 0:24:18The go-to, the place?
0:24:18 > 0:24:19The go-to, the place.
0:24:19 > 0:24:23You see, in Edinburgh, you'd ask for one fish and chips, OK.
0:24:23 > 0:24:25- By weight?- By weight. - What are we having?
0:24:27 > 0:24:28I like this.
0:24:28 > 0:24:32Punjab means "land of five rivers"
0:24:32 > 0:24:34and this is a freshwater catfish.
0:24:34 > 0:24:36It's a bit like cod.
0:24:36 > 0:24:38- And with a bit of salad on the side. - White radish.
0:24:38 > 0:24:41- And what's in the chutney? - Chutney is a mint chutney.
0:24:44 > 0:24:47You can taste the fish, you've got a little bit of heat.
0:24:47 > 0:24:49This is fabulous.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52Just going place to place is like tapas, OK, but this is not
0:24:52 > 0:24:55- cos you're drinking, you're taking your own drink.- Yeah.
0:24:55 > 0:24:57You're not going to the bar for the nibbles,
0:24:57 > 0:24:59you're taking your bar to the nibbles.
0:24:59 > 0:25:00- Right.- But who does it?
0:25:03 > 0:25:05- So it's not about cost? - No, it's not about cost.
0:25:11 > 0:25:12Right.
0:25:18 > 0:25:19Yes.
0:25:25 > 0:25:26So you have to move?
0:25:26 > 0:25:28- You have to move. - I'm ready.- You're ready.
0:25:30 > 0:25:34- So the fish is done. - Fish is done. Now...
0:25:37 > 0:25:40No, not those sorts of birds!
0:25:40 > 0:25:43Tandoori chicken is a Punjabi speciality,
0:25:43 > 0:25:46skewered and cooked in a traditional, wood-fired oven -
0:25:46 > 0:25:47the tandoor.
0:25:50 > 0:25:53And Jaideep is taking me to THE place to try it.
0:26:00 > 0:26:02Drive-through.
0:26:02 > 0:26:04Where from?
0:26:04 > 0:26:05My mouth's watering already.
0:26:09 > 0:26:10Thank you.
0:26:14 > 0:26:15Wow.
0:26:15 > 0:26:17Green mint chutney.
0:26:22 > 0:26:25It's so tender and so succulent.
0:26:26 > 0:26:29If you're back in the UK, most restaurants...
0:26:29 > 0:26:31You've got tandoori chicken, nothing like this.
0:26:31 > 0:26:34- OK.- Gas ovens.- All right.
0:26:34 > 0:26:35You've just lost that flavour.
0:26:35 > 0:26:37So is this why they still use wood for centuries
0:26:37 > 0:26:39and that's why they stick to it?
0:26:39 > 0:26:40And basically you can taste it.
0:26:40 > 0:26:43- You can, and that's the amazing thing.- That's the beauty.
0:26:43 > 0:26:46I heard a story about the metal rods used to be swords.
0:26:53 > 0:26:54Right.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59Right.
0:26:59 > 0:27:01That's how good it is, that's lasted through the ages.
0:27:07 > 0:27:08Amazing. Right.
0:27:08 > 0:27:12After we've had this, to finish off car-o-bar, what would you do?
0:27:24 > 0:27:28Punjabi cuisine uses a lot of dairy, so what better way to finish the
0:27:28 > 0:27:33night than with this solid, buttery cream with fruit
0:27:33 > 0:27:36made from super-rich buffalo milk?
0:27:36 > 0:27:37Wow.
0:27:37 > 0:27:4052% fat and it tastes fantastic.
0:27:41 > 0:27:44Car-o-bar, what an idea, eh? What a concept!
0:27:44 > 0:27:47I love it, going out. Shame for the designated driver
0:27:47 > 0:27:51but the bonus is the food of one person doing one thing
0:27:51 > 0:27:53just right and then you go to the next,
0:27:53 > 0:27:54I think it's a fantastic idea.
0:28:06 > 0:28:10I think I'm finally getting the hang of crossing these roads
0:28:10 > 0:28:14but there's no way this Scot is getting behind the wheel.
0:28:17 > 0:28:21So I've hired a driver, who's taking me on the next part of my adventure.
0:28:25 > 0:28:31I'm travelling on the Grand Trunk, or GT Road, down to Delhi,
0:28:31 > 0:28:34the same 300-mile journey that millions of Sikhs,
0:28:34 > 0:28:38including my own family, were forced to make as refugees.
0:28:39 > 0:28:42After India declared independence,
0:28:42 > 0:28:45the tension between different religions was high.
0:28:46 > 0:28:49In Punjab, Sikhs and Muslims clashed
0:28:49 > 0:28:53as they both scrambled to get to the right side of the border
0:28:53 > 0:28:55and find safe haven.
0:28:55 > 0:28:59A million people died from violence or starvation
0:28:59 > 0:29:01trying to reach their destinations.
0:29:10 > 0:29:14My first stop en-route to Delhi is an hour outside Amritsar.
0:29:14 > 0:29:15I'm looking for a spot
0:29:15 > 0:29:19where a holy order of Sikh soldiers have set up camp.
0:29:19 > 0:29:22I was raised on stories about these legendary,
0:29:22 > 0:29:23nomadic warriors
0:29:23 > 0:29:27whose way of life hasn't changed for over 300 years.
0:29:27 > 0:29:30This is my chance to meet the Nihang,
0:29:30 > 0:29:32the superheroes of the Sikh world.
0:29:33 > 0:29:36Getting to meet them hasn't been easy,
0:29:36 > 0:29:40but, thanks to Dalbir, who's worked with them for years, here I am.
0:29:43 > 0:29:47I'm just in awe because as I've been growing up,
0:29:47 > 0:29:52my grandad on my mum's side used to tell me about the Nihang,
0:29:52 > 0:29:55the Sikh soldiers, the protectors of the faith, but everybody's faith.
0:29:55 > 0:29:59These guys went about and looked after everybody and they're here.
0:30:03 > 0:30:07Their martial art, gatka, has been around for thousands of years
0:30:07 > 0:30:09but these swords aren't just for show.
0:30:12 > 0:30:19Why would spiritual people and peace-loving people do gatka?
0:30:28 > 0:30:33The Nihang were rarely beaten on the battlefield, even when outnumbered.
0:30:33 > 0:30:35So, where do they get their strength?
0:30:36 > 0:30:39The Nihang, they travel, they're nomadic in the sense of
0:30:39 > 0:30:41they go from place to place.
0:30:41 > 0:30:46And me being a chef, I always go back. How did they eat?
0:30:48 > 0:30:49Thank you.
0:30:52 > 0:30:55They have set up camp in a local gurdwara,
0:30:55 > 0:30:58but before I see their operation, I am being taken to the
0:30:58 > 0:31:00head of the order to get his blessing.
0:31:04 > 0:31:07THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI
0:31:07 > 0:31:10- Babaji was saying?- Babaji said...
0:31:18 > 0:31:20- Excellent.- You're welcome.
0:31:21 > 0:31:26Open kitchens with strict rules are set up each time they move camp.
0:31:30 > 0:31:33- Iron?- Iron bowls.- Why, why?
0:31:38 > 0:31:39They always cover their mouths.
0:31:39 > 0:31:41Such respect is paid to the food
0:31:41 > 0:31:44that they put a piece of cloth over their mouth.
0:31:48 > 0:31:52So it's an honour to become a vaviki, a chef for the Nihang
0:31:52 > 0:31:54because they only cook for themselves.
0:31:54 > 0:31:56They can't even have packaged drinks,
0:31:56 > 0:31:57anything outside.
0:31:57 > 0:32:00And other vaviki, other chefs, Nihang chefs cook for them,
0:32:00 > 0:32:02but it's such an honour, I never knew this.
0:32:02 > 0:32:04Close.
0:32:04 > 0:32:06I'm not allowed into the kitchen,
0:32:06 > 0:32:08I'm not allowed to touch anything
0:32:08 > 0:32:11because I'm not a vaviki chef, I'm not a Nihang chef.
0:32:22 > 0:32:26Everything done by hand until all the pilgrims are fed.
0:32:31 > 0:32:35But these villagers are here for more than a free lunch,
0:32:35 > 0:32:38they've come to be close to their heroes, and many
0:32:38 > 0:32:42will donate food and money to keep the Nihang traditions alive.
0:32:50 > 0:32:53These days, their role may be mainly ceremonial,
0:32:53 > 0:32:56but they're keeping alive a way of life unchanged
0:32:56 > 0:32:57for hundreds of years.
0:33:06 > 0:33:08- Every three days.- Every three days.
0:33:08 > 0:33:10How are they received? How do people welcome them?
0:33:28 > 0:33:33THEY CHANT IN PUNJABI
0:33:33 > 0:33:37As a child, you had in your mind, you know, I've seen them in books,
0:33:37 > 0:33:40I've seen them in videos, read about them,
0:33:40 > 0:33:41but then meeting them...
0:33:42 > 0:33:44Amazing, amazing.
0:33:47 > 0:33:49Is there a place for them in this world?
0:33:49 > 0:33:52Yes. It's not vanished in 300 years, I don't think it'll vanish.
0:33:52 > 0:33:55I think they're strong enough to look after themselves.
0:33:55 > 0:33:57CHEERING
0:34:01 > 0:34:02Back on the Grand Trunk Road,
0:34:02 > 0:34:05I'm glad I was blessed by the Nihang...
0:34:06 > 0:34:08..to protect me from the other drivers.
0:34:08 > 0:34:13VEHICLE HORNS BEEP
0:34:13 > 0:34:15See, that's it, I would never drive on this road.
0:34:15 > 0:34:17It's too dangerous, that's why I've got you.
0:34:21 > 0:34:2414 people an hour die on the roads?!
0:34:24 > 0:34:26One hour, yeah.
0:34:26 > 0:34:27That's unbelievable.
0:34:27 > 0:34:28This is very bad.
0:34:29 > 0:34:31No, I would never let...
0:34:31 > 0:34:33You concentrate driving and I'll kid on
0:34:33 > 0:34:34I'm not bricking myself.
0:34:38 > 0:34:43We're heading deep into the heart of rural Punjab, and I can see this is
0:34:43 > 0:34:45proper farming country.
0:34:45 > 0:34:47This place is said to have some of the
0:34:47 > 0:34:50most fertile land on the planet.
0:34:50 > 0:34:51I've been looking forward
0:34:51 > 0:34:54to this detour off the GT Road.
0:34:54 > 0:34:57It couldn't be more of a contrast to where I've been.
0:34:59 > 0:35:00Listen...
0:35:01 > 0:35:06Tractors, birds, lush greenness.
0:35:06 > 0:35:09This is the Punjab of my childhood memories,
0:35:09 > 0:35:12the movies and everything, fields of sugar cane, I just wanted to grab
0:35:12 > 0:35:15a bit and chew it and walk through the fields but it's not ready.
0:35:15 > 0:35:18Such a change from Amritsar.
0:35:18 > 0:35:20And the drive this morning, you could just see it,
0:35:20 > 0:35:22all the green, the lushness.
0:35:22 > 0:35:25This is amazing, this is why Punjab,
0:35:25 > 0:35:28land of five rivers, is a fertile ground.
0:35:28 > 0:35:31It's always been prized as a bread basket.
0:35:32 > 0:35:36Punjabis have a reputation for being skilled and hard-working...
0:35:37 > 0:35:41..and countries from Italy to Russia actually advertise
0:35:41 > 0:35:42for Punjabi farmers.
0:35:43 > 0:35:45Wheat and other grains grow here
0:35:45 > 0:35:48in abundance and, along with dairy products, they form the
0:35:48 > 0:35:51cornerstone of the Punjabi diet.
0:36:04 > 0:36:09We've been on the road for hours now and yes, I'm getting hungry.
0:36:09 > 0:36:12It's a perfect opportunity to see how the Punjabis
0:36:12 > 0:36:14do a motorway pit stop.
0:36:14 > 0:36:15Oh.
0:36:18 > 0:36:19Ah.
0:36:21 > 0:36:23Oh, my back.
0:36:25 > 0:36:28We've just got off the GT Road at a traditional dhaba, Ludhiana.
0:36:28 > 0:36:31A dhaba is a motorway caff, service station.
0:36:31 > 0:36:35Nothing like this is in the UK, they've been here forever.
0:36:35 > 0:36:37Simple food, cooked freshly.
0:36:38 > 0:36:41This is wood fire, this is traditional.
0:36:41 > 0:36:43- Yeah, traditional fire.- Wood.
0:36:43 > 0:36:45Can I have a look round? Is it possible?
0:36:45 > 0:36:48Yeah, why not? Come, come, come. Yeah, yeah.
0:36:50 > 0:36:51Wow.
0:36:51 > 0:36:54So I've been in India a few days and this is the first time
0:36:54 > 0:36:57I've got up close and personal to a tandoor in Punjab and it's...
0:36:59 > 0:37:02The heat's 360 degrees heat, it's concave and
0:37:02 > 0:37:05you have to feel the heat coming off that, it's taking seconds to cook.
0:37:05 > 0:37:07And that was one of the great things with tandoor,
0:37:07 > 0:37:10little fuel, all the heat was concentrated and the
0:37:10 > 0:37:12flavour you get is unbelievable.
0:37:12 > 0:37:15This is quintessential Punjabi at heart,
0:37:15 > 0:37:19this is the thing, the tandoori chickens, the naans, the breads
0:37:19 > 0:37:20and everything comes out of this oven.
0:37:20 > 0:37:24This is what people know of Punjabi food outside around the world.
0:37:30 > 0:37:31This is it.
0:37:31 > 0:37:32Now, what to eat.
0:37:32 > 0:37:36Well, this is what I've been waiting for.
0:37:36 > 0:37:39In dhabas like this, they cook simple, seasonal food.
0:37:41 > 0:37:44The traditional dish of Punjab is only available this
0:37:44 > 0:37:46time of year, so I've struck it lucky.
0:37:48 > 0:37:50Green mustard-top curry,
0:37:50 > 0:37:54a Punjabi-sized portion of white buffalo butter
0:37:54 > 0:37:55and corn rotis.
0:37:55 > 0:37:58This is hearty farming food
0:37:58 > 0:38:00that you won't find on the menu outside of Punjab.
0:38:02 > 0:38:07This is Punjab - the culture, the lifestyle, everything in a mouthful.
0:38:10 > 0:38:14- It is lovely.- Great food.
0:38:14 > 0:38:17Another local favourite is buffalo milk,
0:38:17 > 0:38:20and this lassi is as fresh as you can get.
0:38:20 > 0:38:24They have real live buffalos out back, how mad is that?!
0:38:24 > 0:38:25- Cheers.- Cheers.
0:38:27 > 0:38:29- Lassi nice?- Lassi's very nice.
0:38:29 > 0:38:31It's sharp and it's creamy, though.
0:38:33 > 0:38:38If we had these kind of pit stops on the M1, eh, be a much better place.
0:38:38 > 0:38:40This is fantastic.
0:38:43 > 0:38:47Only one more stop tonight and that's to sleep!
0:38:47 > 0:38:49Well, that's the plan.
0:38:52 > 0:38:56Me and Gurnam have rocked up in the middle of rural Punjab
0:38:56 > 0:38:59to one of these wedding venues that are sprouting up all over
0:38:59 > 0:39:04the place for a quiet rest for the rest of our journey and...
0:39:04 > 0:39:05FAINT MUSIC
0:39:05 > 0:39:08Yes, you can hear it, Bungarra music, there's a wedding.
0:39:10 > 0:39:12- HE SIGHS - Tired.
0:39:21 > 0:39:24In my search for authentic Punjabi cooking,
0:39:24 > 0:39:27I've tried the food of pilgrims, travellers and families,
0:39:27 > 0:39:29but I've yet to find the high end of Britain's
0:39:29 > 0:39:32most popular cuisine until now.
0:39:32 > 0:39:35I have a date with royalty!
0:39:38 > 0:39:42The maharajahs once ruled the stately kingdoms across India.
0:39:45 > 0:39:48And it took some doing but I'm off to see how the other half eat.
0:39:51 > 0:39:54I'm meeting a member of the Patiala royal family
0:39:54 > 0:39:57at one of their modest country retreats.
0:39:58 > 0:40:00And they've given me a changing room that's,
0:40:00 > 0:40:03ooh, just a tad smaller than my house.
0:40:08 > 0:40:09So we've hit the mother lode,
0:40:09 > 0:40:13we're here to taste the ultimate in Punjabi food,
0:40:13 > 0:40:15rich, decadent food from the maharajas,
0:40:15 > 0:40:18and I'm here with a member of the Patiala royal family.
0:40:18 > 0:40:21But what do you wear when you go and see a maharaja?
0:40:23 > 0:40:24Look at that.
0:40:24 > 0:40:27Fingers crossed I've not put too much poundage on.
0:40:29 > 0:40:31- Hold on. - HE INHALES
0:40:34 > 0:40:35Oh, yeah.
0:40:35 > 0:40:37I thought I'd be nervous but I'm not, he's a food lover.
0:40:37 > 0:40:41We all speak the same language, "Mmm, aah, lovely!"
0:40:41 > 0:40:42You know what I mean, that'll be great.
0:40:42 > 0:40:45I'm nervous cooking with him, though. Talking food's one thing,
0:40:45 > 0:40:46but cooking with him...
0:40:48 > 0:40:51The royal secretary is waiting to take me to the raja saab,
0:40:51 > 0:40:52Randhir Singh.
0:40:53 > 0:40:54Thank you very much.
0:40:57 > 0:41:00His grandfather, the maharaja Bhupinder Singh,
0:41:00 > 0:41:04was famous for his extravagant feasts and his love of cooking,
0:41:04 > 0:41:07both traditions that have been passed down through the generations.
0:41:09 > 0:41:12Oh, I might have overdone it with the jacket.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17I'm very honoured that you're going to show me...
0:41:17 > 0:41:19you're going to cook with me. I was very surprised.
0:41:19 > 0:41:21No, no, I'll cook for you.
0:41:21 > 0:41:24We cook regularly whenever the members of the family are together.
0:41:24 > 0:41:28We cook and, in fact, everyone cooks in the evening.
0:41:28 > 0:41:31It's much better we are spending time than talking business
0:41:31 > 0:41:32or talking politics, much nicer.
0:41:32 > 0:41:34So who takes control?
0:41:34 > 0:41:36Because obviously you still need one chef in a kitchen.
0:41:36 > 0:41:39- No, no, no, everyone cooks their own dish.- Right.
0:41:39 > 0:41:42You have these coal fires lit separately
0:41:42 > 0:41:45and everyone has their own recipe, so it's laid out.
0:41:45 > 0:41:48And somebody makes a rice, somebody makes some mutton,
0:41:48 > 0:41:51somebody's cooking a chicken, a dhal or a vegetable.
0:41:51 > 0:41:54So there's no conflict there, everybody just does their speciality?
0:41:54 > 0:41:55No, no, no. No conflict.
0:41:55 > 0:41:57- The recipes come from the family. - OK.
0:42:00 > 0:42:02I'm not sure what to expect
0:42:02 > 0:42:05and I still feel a bit nervous in such illustrious company.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09But, phew, it turns out the royals
0:42:09 > 0:42:13cook on the same traditional stoves that I've seen all over Punjab.
0:42:14 > 0:42:18But they do have the bonus of some man servants to lend a hand.
0:42:18 > 0:42:23This is what I call a kitchen, and the views, and it's beautiful,
0:42:23 > 0:42:25but a bit hot for me I think.
0:42:25 > 0:42:27- Bit hot.- Yeah!
0:42:27 > 0:42:30I am your commis chef. If you tell me what to do, I shall...
0:42:30 > 0:42:31Yes, certainly.
0:42:31 > 0:42:33We're cooking a rich chicken and apricot dish
0:42:33 > 0:42:36that's a favourite in the Patiala palace.
0:42:38 > 0:42:42No surprise at the first ingredient - ghee.
0:42:42 > 0:42:46This royal household gets through 70 kilos of ghee a month
0:42:46 > 0:42:48compared with most families who use around two.
0:42:50 > 0:42:53We add black peppercorns, cloves...
0:42:54 > 0:42:57- And we use the bigger cardamom. - ..and onions.
0:42:58 > 0:43:02So just gently frying it with the spices to get that
0:43:02 > 0:43:05golden brown, to add flavour to the dish at each step.
0:43:05 > 0:43:07This is garlic paste and ginger paste.
0:43:07 > 0:43:10Garlic and ginger paste, OK.
0:43:10 > 0:43:13Even the royals have the basic Punjabi spice box.
0:43:13 > 0:43:14OK, the chillies.
0:43:16 > 0:43:18And this is red chilli colour.
0:43:18 > 0:43:20- Just ground coriander.- Yeah.
0:43:20 > 0:43:23The simple use of spices to bring out the best in the flavour,
0:43:23 > 0:43:24and that's what they have to do.
0:43:24 > 0:43:27And they do flavour it. For every dish you have a different spice.
0:43:30 > 0:43:32All the men helping in doing their dishes,
0:43:32 > 0:43:36was there ever competitions who makes the same...the best dish?
0:43:36 > 0:43:37- I don't think so.- No.
0:43:37 > 0:43:40I won't be getting any royal gossip then, but I will be getting
0:43:40 > 0:43:42some royal tips.
0:43:42 > 0:43:45You see, when the bubbles become clear
0:43:45 > 0:43:48- you know that the masala has been cooked.- OK.
0:43:48 > 0:43:51After all of the vegetarian dishes I've tried,
0:43:51 > 0:43:54this already feels more extravagant.
0:43:54 > 0:43:58And if you're going to eat meat in Punjab, it's usually chicken.
0:43:59 > 0:44:02The smell is just phenomenal.
0:44:04 > 0:44:07The maharajas' recipes have been influenced by their links
0:44:07 > 0:44:09with neighbouring royal courts.
0:44:10 > 0:44:12Once the chicken has simmered
0:44:12 > 0:44:15we add the dried apricots, which give it a sweet taste
0:44:15 > 0:44:18like the curries of Afghanistan to the north.
0:44:18 > 0:44:20Because the apricots have been soaked,
0:44:20 > 0:44:22they just need a couple of minutes to cook through
0:44:22 > 0:44:25- and all the flavours will marry together and that's it.- That's it.
0:44:26 > 0:44:29The Patiala royals were famous for their lavish hospitality.
0:44:30 > 0:44:34And in the 1930s, at the height of their power and wealth,
0:44:34 > 0:44:38this royal household would feed up to 3,500 people a day.
0:44:40 > 0:44:44Today's menu includes two types of dhal,
0:44:44 > 0:44:49a rich marinated lamb and yoghurt, a creamy chicken pilau dish,
0:44:49 > 0:44:53spicy cauliflower, and our sweet chicken and apricots.
0:45:01 > 0:45:02The apricots and the chicken...
0:45:03 > 0:45:07It's that surprise of sharp sweetness.
0:45:07 > 0:45:08Does it remind you of your childhood,
0:45:08 > 0:45:12of the taste that you used to have when you used to get together?
0:45:12 > 0:45:15The food is the same, the dishes were many more.
0:45:15 > 0:45:16- Many more?- Many more dishes.
0:45:16 > 0:45:20They came in a big silver salver and there were these bowls like this
0:45:20 > 0:45:23and they had 51 dishes including the rices,
0:45:23 > 0:45:26at least two pilaus, so, a lot of food was made then.
0:45:26 > 0:45:29And your grandfather was a character?
0:45:29 > 0:45:33- He had 42 Rolls-Royces in the garage at one time.- 42?!
0:45:33 > 0:45:35He was very fond of dogs as well.
0:45:35 > 0:45:38We had a kennels in Patiala which had 1,000 dogs in them.
0:45:38 > 0:45:401,000 dogs?
0:45:40 > 0:45:42He had a Rolls-Royce for his hunting,
0:45:42 > 0:45:45so he used to carry his dogs in that Rolls-Royce at the back.
0:45:45 > 0:45:46Get some more, you've got...
0:45:46 > 0:45:48No, honestly, this is fabulous.
0:45:48 > 0:45:51- This is light, you won't have to worry about...- No, no, no.
0:45:52 > 0:45:53Oh, go on, then.
0:45:55 > 0:45:57When in Rome.
0:45:57 > 0:46:01These days, many maharajas have swapped their palaces for politics
0:46:01 > 0:46:05and business, but they still know how to put on a cracking spread,
0:46:05 > 0:46:07and I'm glad the recipes have survived.
0:46:09 > 0:46:11The dishes have been wonderful.
0:46:11 > 0:46:15Very subtle, delicately flavoured, you can taste all the ingredients.
0:46:15 > 0:46:16It was wonderful.
0:46:17 > 0:46:20- Raja Saab, thank you very much. - Happy that you enjoyed it.
0:46:20 > 0:46:21- OK, thank you. Bye.- Bye.
0:46:24 > 0:46:25Delhi.
0:46:27 > 0:46:30With a full belly and a slightly tighter jacket...
0:46:32 > 0:46:35..the rich food of the maharajas has definitely lived up
0:46:35 > 0:46:36to my expectation.
0:46:38 > 0:46:40But back on the Grand Trunk Road
0:46:40 > 0:46:42I'm ready for the last leg of the journey.
0:46:44 > 0:46:46We're in Delhi, baby!
0:46:47 > 0:46:50The capital of India, population 22 million.
0:46:52 > 0:46:55As I enter the outskirts of the city, I can't help
0:46:55 > 0:46:58but notice health and fitness clubs everywhere.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01A rich diet and changing lifestyles have made India
0:47:01 > 0:47:04the type-two diabetes capital of the world.
0:47:05 > 0:47:07Maybe it's a sign.
0:47:10 > 0:47:11Wish me luck.
0:47:13 > 0:47:15So, after a week of indulging myself
0:47:15 > 0:47:18and especially with the maharaja, that fantastic food,
0:47:18 > 0:47:20the jacket's feeling a bit tight, eh, so I thought,
0:47:20 > 0:47:23the latest craze, Bolly Sweat.
0:47:23 > 0:47:24Bit of fitness, a bit of dance.
0:47:26 > 0:47:28I'm watching them and I'm getting a bit worried.
0:47:28 > 0:47:30It's more than my screwing the light bulbs, big present,
0:47:30 > 0:47:32small present, fish, all that.
0:47:32 > 0:47:34It's a bit technical.
0:47:35 > 0:47:38- How are you?- I'm Anant, I'm the director of Delhi Dance Academy.
0:47:38 > 0:47:42Excellent. I'm...I'm a bit worried in case you kill me dancing.
0:47:42 > 0:47:45Yeah, I mean, just not worry, it's a really chilled out
0:47:45 > 0:47:46Bollywood dance class.
0:47:46 > 0:47:49Is this a big craze now? Is Bolly Sweat the thing?
0:47:49 > 0:47:52What happens in India is because Bollywood music is so popular,
0:47:52 > 0:47:54people want to do the same thing on Bollywood songs,
0:47:54 > 0:47:56and that's what we are doing here.
0:47:56 > 0:47:59But why is there such a big increase in these kinds of classes?
0:47:59 > 0:48:01Because driving here I've seen fitness spas and health clubs
0:48:01 > 0:48:04- and everything like that. - There's a lot of general influence
0:48:04 > 0:48:07of the western culture coming in. People are getting more aware,
0:48:07 > 0:48:10so there are people working in multi-national companies these days.
0:48:10 > 0:48:13There are gyms in the companies, there are swimming pools
0:48:13 > 0:48:14- and stuff like that.- OK.
0:48:14 > 0:48:17These companies have, you know, a culture of fitness,
0:48:17 > 0:48:19you know, you need to make them a regular habit for yourself.
0:48:19 > 0:48:21Gently. Gently for me.
0:48:21 > 0:48:24We're going to take it slow, you know, it's a group class,
0:48:24 > 0:48:27- so there'll be other people doing it with you.- Right, let's go.
0:48:27 > 0:48:28Great, come.
0:48:36 > 0:48:38BOLLYWOOD MUSIC PLAYS
0:48:45 > 0:48:47The nation's waistlines might be growing
0:48:47 > 0:48:51but so is its fitness industry, now worth £1 billion a year!
0:48:53 > 0:48:56As ever, in India, the people seem to keep what they love
0:48:56 > 0:48:57and embrace what's new.
0:48:59 > 0:49:01That's all right, that was all right.
0:49:02 > 0:49:04BOLLYWOOD MUSIC PLAYS
0:49:12 > 0:49:14Turns out I'm a natural,
0:49:14 > 0:49:17or maybe these Bollywood moves are just second nature.
0:49:25 > 0:49:29Bolly Sweat, fantastic. I've lost 2st, I'm off for a burger.
0:49:31 > 0:49:34While I wait for my heart rate to recover,
0:49:34 > 0:49:38I want to find out from my fellow dancers why this is so popular.
0:49:45 > 0:49:48This is not arranged marriages any more?
0:49:48 > 0:49:49There are but...
0:49:51 > 0:49:54- Now we have...- Ah, OK, so...
0:50:00 > 0:50:03Is that one of the criteria? Do they give, "I want size zero."
0:50:10 > 0:50:13But the way to this hunk's heart is still food.
0:50:13 > 0:50:15So what's hot in Delhi now?
0:50:15 > 0:50:17- Momos.- What's momos?
0:50:22 > 0:50:24- Ready to go?- Yes. - Come on, excellent.
0:50:26 > 0:50:30The Bolly Sweaters are taking me to their regular momo stand
0:50:30 > 0:50:31around the corner.
0:50:34 > 0:50:35I'll let you.
0:50:35 > 0:50:37This is the first time I've had food here
0:50:37 > 0:50:41that isn't the traditional Punjabi flavours that I grew up with.
0:50:41 > 0:50:43Vegetarian.
0:50:43 > 0:50:45So that's the momo.
0:50:45 > 0:50:47And that's cooked in a tandoor?
0:50:48 > 0:50:49That's it's, stuffed.
0:50:52 > 0:50:56You've got this fantastic light dough, like dim sum.
0:50:56 > 0:50:57The filling -
0:50:57 > 0:51:00garlic, ginger, chilli, onion, spices,
0:51:00 > 0:51:02and then you've got this fantastic chutney,
0:51:02 > 0:51:05vinegar and chilli, simple two ingredients.
0:51:05 > 0:51:07It's hot, but then it doesn't detract
0:51:07 > 0:51:08from the flavour of the momo.
0:51:10 > 0:51:14The Punjabis came after partition, changed the food scene,
0:51:14 > 0:51:18completely, and now the things like the momos, that's Tibetan,
0:51:18 > 0:51:19and we made our own.
0:51:19 > 0:51:21It's amazing how everything keeps reinventing itself.
0:51:24 > 0:51:27These young Delhiites have got it sorted - work hard, play hard.
0:51:27 > 0:51:29After a Bollywood Sweat class,
0:51:29 > 0:51:31they're out for the best food that's on the street
0:51:31 > 0:51:34and it just shows you the face of Delhi food keeps changing.
0:51:34 > 0:51:37Refugees from Tibet, from Afghanistan
0:51:37 > 0:51:39bringing their food in and changing the culture
0:51:39 > 0:51:41of food slightly again.
0:51:41 > 0:51:42It's obviously keep evolving.
0:51:42 > 0:51:44I think that's what's wonderful about food in India,
0:51:44 > 0:51:46the traditions are going to stay the same
0:51:46 > 0:51:49but they've got tweaks from whatever comes in.
0:52:09 > 0:52:13It's my last day and I'm finally in the heart of the capital.
0:52:14 > 0:52:16Today I will be reunited
0:52:16 > 0:52:19with the side of my family who stayed in Delhi
0:52:19 > 0:52:26after travelling 300 miles from Amritsar as refugees back in 1947.
0:52:26 > 0:52:29From what I know, temporary camps were set up all over the city
0:52:29 > 0:52:33to shelter the millions of displaced people,
0:52:33 > 0:52:36and my great-grandparents ended up here at the Red Fort.
0:52:39 > 0:52:43This was one of the largest refugee camps just after partition,
0:52:43 > 0:52:49with 13 million people moved over an arbitrary line drawn on a map.
0:52:49 > 0:52:51My great-grandparents done that journey.
0:52:51 > 0:52:54I can't even imagine what hardships they went through.
0:52:54 > 0:52:57We came down in fun, in luxury, stopping to have food. They didn't
0:52:57 > 0:53:00even know when their next meal was coming, or whether they'd make it.
0:53:02 > 0:53:04Imagine this full of people, tents,
0:53:04 > 0:53:07but you're on the road for weeks to get here
0:53:07 > 0:53:10and then you're thrown into this.
0:53:10 > 0:53:13And that's for millions of people. We were just one family.
0:53:14 > 0:53:18And that dispersed the Sikhs throughout the world.
0:53:18 > 0:53:22But a million people dying in that time, I can't get my head round it.
0:53:22 > 0:53:24No, I can't even get my...
0:53:24 > 0:53:26There's only five million people in Scotland, all of Scotland.
0:53:28 > 0:53:30But there's things to find out now so I can tell my kids.
0:53:33 > 0:53:37I need to speak to somebody who actually lived through partition.
0:53:38 > 0:53:42I'm going to see my great-uncle at the family home
0:53:42 > 0:53:44that sits on the same plot
0:53:44 > 0:53:47my great-grandparents were given 60 years ago.
0:53:50 > 0:53:52There you go.
0:53:52 > 0:53:56That's the house, great-grandad's name,
0:53:56 > 0:53:59my grandad's name, my granny's name.
0:53:59 > 0:54:01It's so hard to imagine that
0:54:01 > 0:54:02when they came here, this was nothing.
0:54:02 > 0:54:06This was all farmland, all everywhere,
0:54:06 > 0:54:08this was the blocks going backwards.
0:54:08 > 0:54:1215ft by 60ft, that was it, that's what they were given,
0:54:12 > 0:54:16and it shows the heart of the Punjabi spirit,
0:54:16 > 0:54:18look what they've built round, look at the house.
0:54:18 > 0:54:21They stayed, they prospered, they travelled the world.
0:54:21 > 0:54:23I'm just glad to be home.
0:54:30 > 0:54:34My parents have flown over from Scotland for their regular visit.
0:54:35 > 0:54:37HE GREETS IN PUNJABI
0:54:42 > 0:54:45It feels good to see my mum
0:54:45 > 0:54:47and my dad.
0:54:47 > 0:54:49They've arranged for me to spend time
0:54:49 > 0:54:52with my 89-year-old great-uncle Ammar.
0:54:55 > 0:54:58I've only met him once and I've never spoken to him
0:54:58 > 0:55:01about our family history or his own experiences.
0:55:01 > 0:55:03THEY SPEAK IN PUNJABI
0:55:03 > 0:55:06TRANSLATION:
0:55:08 > 0:55:12HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:55:12 > 0:55:17He got to the camps around 13 or 14, he was there for six years.
0:55:17 > 0:55:19Formative years till he was 20.
0:55:19 > 0:55:21I can't even imagine what it was like.
0:55:23 > 0:55:27So, when they were coming down, there was so much danger there.
0:55:27 > 0:55:30This was a partition on religious grounds.
0:55:30 > 0:55:33Which got Muslims were attacking the Sikhs.
0:55:33 > 0:55:35On the way up, the Hindus were attacking the Muslims.
0:55:35 > 0:55:38It was horrendously sad to see.
0:55:38 > 0:55:41Guns, bombs going off and everything.
0:55:41 > 0:55:43HE SPEAKS IN PUNJABI
0:55:43 > 0:55:47'I asked my great-uncle about my grandad, how he got to the UK.
0:55:47 > 0:55:51'It was like a lot of Punjabis at the time, they went to find work
0:55:51 > 0:55:53'and their plans were to go, make a little bit of money
0:55:53 > 0:55:55'and come back to their homes here.
0:55:55 > 0:55:58'But, unfortunately, he died in a car accident'
0:55:58 > 0:56:02and that's how my family, my grandad, my granny
0:56:02 > 0:56:03and everybody stayed up in Scotland.
0:56:03 > 0:56:06They ended up there, ended putting their roots down there.
0:56:08 > 0:56:12I asked my great-granduncle what he feels because we're in Scotland,
0:56:12 > 0:56:15there's other people round parts of the world and everything.
0:56:15 > 0:56:18He says, "It's great. It's God's will, it is amazing."
0:56:18 > 0:56:21And he says it doesn't matter because we're just one blood
0:56:21 > 0:56:22and that's it.
0:56:23 > 0:56:31TRANSLATION:
0:56:50 > 0:56:53It's been years since we met, but then even then you didn't ask these
0:56:53 > 0:56:56questions because when you're young you think you've got all the time
0:56:56 > 0:56:59in the world and everybody's going to be there and you know it all.
0:56:59 > 0:57:00It's not true.
0:57:07 > 0:57:12I'm realising my family bonds, like my Indian traditions, are strong
0:57:12 > 0:57:14and that good food brings people together.
0:57:16 > 0:57:19My mum has cooked up a feast, and this journey has shown me
0:57:19 > 0:57:22that her Punjabi cooking is the real deal.
0:57:23 > 0:57:25- Is that nice?- Yes.
0:57:27 > 0:57:30I came to find out if I could fit in and I can.
0:57:32 > 0:57:36I can have one foot in Punjab and one foot in Scotland
0:57:36 > 0:57:41and I am proud to have two strong, independent heritages
0:57:41 > 0:57:42that I can call my own.
0:57:46 > 0:57:47I'm so fortunate.
0:57:47 > 0:57:49I didn't know more than half the stuff that I've been
0:57:49 > 0:57:54discovering coming down the same road as my great-great-grandparents
0:57:54 > 0:57:56as refugees.
0:57:56 > 0:57:59And it's my duty to tell my kids
0:57:59 > 0:58:01and I can't wait to see them to tell them.
0:58:07 > 0:58:09It's a bloke's dream, this is.
0:58:09 > 0:58:12In Argentina, MasterChef judge John Torode
0:58:12 > 0:58:15learns the secrets of cooking with fire...
0:58:15 > 0:58:16Wow, look at that.
0:58:16 > 0:58:21..and searches for the best piece of steak in the world.
0:58:21 > 0:58:22What a way to eat.
0:58:22 > 0:58:23What a way to cook.
0:58:23 > 0:58:24What a way to live.
0:58:47 > 0:58:50FIREWORKS SHRIEK AND CRACKLE