Episode 4

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0:00:04 > 0:00:08'China, home to one in five of the planet's population.

0:00:08 > 0:00:13'The superpower the world fears, but few really know.'

0:00:14 > 0:00:16'Ken Hom is the Godfather of Chinese food.'

0:00:16 > 0:00:19Heaven on Earth.

0:00:19 > 0:00:22'He introduced the wok to the West more than 30 years ago.'

0:00:22 > 0:00:26This is the way you should be cooking it.

0:00:26 > 0:00:31'Ching-He Huang is leading the next generation of Chinese cooks...'

0:00:31 > 0:00:33I'm just going to chop off the head.

0:00:33 > 0:00:36'..with a modern, inventive approach to the cuisine.'

0:00:36 > 0:00:39- Like ducks playing in springtime. - Lovely.

0:00:39 > 0:00:43'We're taking a once-in-a-lifetime adventure

0:00:43 > 0:00:45'across China through food...'

0:00:45 > 0:00:48- Rabbit head. - Shall we try one?- No!

0:00:48 > 0:00:50'..to delve into its heart and soul.'

0:00:50 > 0:00:52Bang it, pull it.

0:00:52 > 0:00:56Food is the best way to explore Chinese culture,

0:00:56 > 0:00:59because we really live to eat.

0:01:00 > 0:01:06'It's an epic trip, 3,000 miles, from the mega cities of the east,

0:01:06 > 0:01:09'to the forgotten villages of the wild west.'

0:01:09 > 0:01:12It's like we've been back to the time of Genghis Khan.

0:01:14 > 0:01:18Ah! She's just decapitated it!

0:01:18 > 0:01:23'We'll uncover the familiar, the secret, and the surprising...'

0:01:23 > 0:01:26Wow! I've never seen that done before.

0:01:27 > 0:01:29'..cook simple and delicious dishes...'

0:01:29 > 0:01:32That is my Sichuan sausage.

0:01:32 > 0:01:37'..and reveal the secrets of China, old and new.'

0:01:37 > 0:01:40It's like a journey that I've always dreamt about,

0:01:40 > 0:01:42but in a China I've dreamt about.

0:01:52 > 0:01:55We're on the final leg of our journey across China

0:01:55 > 0:01:59and have arrived in the Cantonese province of Guangdong,

0:01:59 > 0:02:02my parents' birthplace and my spiritual home.

0:02:03 > 0:02:07I was last here in 1989, in the summer,

0:02:07 > 0:02:09and for me, it's exciting to be here

0:02:09 > 0:02:11because I can understand what everyone's saying!

0:02:11 > 0:02:14I can't wait, I really can't wait.

0:02:14 > 0:02:19First time in Guangzhou, couldn't have a better translator.

0:02:19 > 0:02:24We're spending four days in the capital, Guangzhou,

0:02:24 > 0:02:27before going our separate ways to our family and ancestral homes.

0:02:27 > 0:02:30This is the climax of our entire journey.

0:02:31 > 0:02:34I'm crossing the South China Sea to Taiwan,

0:02:34 > 0:02:37where my food journey began at my grandmother's knee.

0:02:39 > 0:02:40While here in Guangdong,

0:02:40 > 0:02:44I'm reuniting with family I haven't seen for 23 years.

0:02:47 > 0:02:50You know, we Cantonese are often called the Sicilians of China,

0:02:50 > 0:02:54because we're loud, boisterous,

0:02:54 > 0:02:57our food is, like, the greatest, we think.

0:02:59 > 0:03:03My parents left Guangdong for America in 1948,

0:03:03 > 0:03:06in search of a better life.

0:03:06 > 0:03:10Historically, most overseas Chinese come from here,

0:03:10 > 0:03:13and today, there are over 30 million in more than 100 countries.

0:03:13 > 0:03:16They took their style of cooking with them

0:03:16 > 0:03:19and adapted it for Western tastes.

0:03:19 > 0:03:22Today, this is what the West thinks of as Chinese food,

0:03:22 > 0:03:25but there's so much more to Cantonese cuisine.

0:03:26 > 0:03:29I know you would appreciate very much some of the things

0:03:29 > 0:03:31we have to offer here.

0:03:31 > 0:03:33Dim sum, I mean, really good dim sum.

0:03:33 > 0:03:35I can't wait to try dim sum with you here, actually,

0:03:35 > 0:03:38and see, you know, how different it is.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40You know, great seafood here.

0:03:40 > 0:03:42We're famous for... We eat everything!

0:03:50 > 0:03:54Guangzhou is home to South China's largest fish market.

0:03:56 > 0:03:59Everything's in tanks, everything's alive.

0:03:59 > 0:04:01Fresh, live, I mean, we're obsessed with that.

0:04:01 > 0:04:04The variety here's incredible.

0:04:04 > 0:04:08Huangsha market is open 24/7

0:04:08 > 0:04:12and sells 600 tonnes of seafood every day.

0:04:12 > 0:04:14Oh, my gosh, that's giant prawns.

0:04:18 > 0:04:20That's a spiny lobster.

0:04:20 > 0:04:23That's beautiful, look at all the colouring.

0:04:25 > 0:04:27The food is so familiar to me,

0:04:27 > 0:04:31versus other places I've been to in China,

0:04:31 > 0:04:36and coming here to Canton, yeah, this is where my culinary soul is.

0:04:48 > 0:04:51Oh, my God! Alligators!

0:04:51 > 0:04:53Baby crocodiles.

0:04:55 > 0:04:56My gosh.

0:05:02 > 0:05:04- They're from Thailand. - From Thailand?

0:05:04 > 0:05:06- I've eaten it. - No, I've never...

0:05:06 > 0:05:08Alligator, I had it in America.

0:05:08 > 0:05:11- I've never cooked or eaten alligator steaks.- Tastes like chicken.

0:05:13 > 0:05:15- Wow!- Wow.

0:05:15 > 0:05:17Has he ever been bitten?

0:05:19 > 0:05:21Yeah, he's been bitten.

0:05:24 > 0:05:28- Oh, my gosh, look!- Turtles. - Turtles!

0:05:28 > 0:05:31- Surely this is not for eating? - Of course, it's for the pot.

0:05:31 > 0:05:32They're not here for pets.

0:05:32 > 0:05:35- I actually think it's quite cruel. - Very Cantonese.

0:05:36 > 0:05:41We don't have the same concept about things as pets,

0:05:41 > 0:05:43I think that's changing now.

0:05:43 > 0:05:44It's changing.

0:05:44 > 0:05:48I mean, shark's fin, for example, is being banned throughout China,

0:05:48 > 0:05:51and I hope turtle soup will be on that same agenda,

0:05:51 > 0:05:53because I think it's cruel.

0:05:53 > 0:05:56There's some things you just don't need to eat.

0:05:56 > 0:05:59Well, you have to look at things historically. I mean,

0:05:59 > 0:06:01where people didn't have enough to eat,

0:06:01 > 0:06:03there was a lot of famine,

0:06:03 > 0:06:05so it's hard to judge when you don't have anything to eat.

0:06:05 > 0:06:08I know, but times have changed, things move on,

0:06:08 > 0:06:10like China, and like modernisation,

0:06:10 > 0:06:13I think the food needs to modernise, as well.

0:06:14 > 0:06:19Chinese tradition claims that stewed turtle cures cancer

0:06:19 > 0:06:21and alligator meat relieves asthma.

0:06:21 > 0:06:25Like many of the creatures here, they're an endangered species,

0:06:25 > 0:06:28and though the Chinese government is taking steps

0:06:28 > 0:06:32to monitor their trade, consumer culture won't change overnight.

0:06:32 > 0:06:36Even a major British supermarket chain with stores in China

0:06:36 > 0:06:39sells and slaughters live turtles.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47We're at the market, to shop for more conventional fare -

0:06:47 > 0:06:49like these super-fresh razor clams.

0:06:51 > 0:06:53See, you don't know whether they're alive or not

0:06:53 > 0:06:57because they're open, the meat is oozing out of the shell.

0:06:57 > 0:07:01Normally, with mussels or scallops, the shell's got to be firmly tight.

0:07:01 > 0:07:03The way you can tell it's fresh

0:07:03 > 0:07:07is if you kind of touch them, they squirt water out.

0:07:07 > 0:07:09These are good.

0:07:09 > 0:07:11These will be good eating, right?

0:07:11 > 0:07:14These should be really sweet and delicious.

0:07:14 > 0:07:17I think that's enough.

0:07:19 > 0:07:22The Cantonese like everything straight from the sea.

0:07:22 > 0:07:25I've got my eye on some fresh scallops.

0:07:26 > 0:07:28They're beautiful.

0:07:28 > 0:07:31We Cantonese believe in never gilding the lily.

0:07:31 > 0:07:33In other words, when your ingredient is so fresh,

0:07:33 > 0:07:36what you want to do is highlight it.

0:07:36 > 0:07:39The Cantonese prize their palate as one of the finest in China,

0:07:39 > 0:07:43simply because all of our food is unadorned,

0:07:43 > 0:07:46simply because it's so fresh.

0:07:46 > 0:07:50Freshness, to us, is like the Eldorado.

0:07:52 > 0:07:54At this local Guangzhou restaurant,

0:07:54 > 0:07:58diners come straight from the market with their live purchases.

0:07:58 > 0:08:02Today, we're taking over the kitchen to cook our fresh shellfish.

0:08:06 > 0:08:08SPEAKING CANTONESE

0:08:10 > 0:08:14I'm cooking steamed Cantonese scallops with chilli,

0:08:14 > 0:08:16spring onion and garlic.

0:08:16 > 0:08:18It's a quick and easy dish,

0:08:18 > 0:08:21but the skill is in the preparation of the scallops.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25To open them, hold the round side down

0:08:25 > 0:08:28and run a flat blade along the inside.

0:08:29 > 0:08:30You have to really pry them open.

0:08:30 > 0:08:33That's how you know they're fresh.

0:08:34 > 0:08:38Separate the shell and wash to remove the dark membrane,

0:08:38 > 0:08:40leaving only the scallop and the roe.

0:08:40 > 0:08:42They're now ready for the pot.

0:08:43 > 0:08:47Yeah, steaming is the best way to actually cook this kind of food,

0:08:47 > 0:08:51because it's the freshest and the best.

0:08:53 > 0:08:57I'm just preparing the chillies, these are mild chillies.

0:08:57 > 0:09:03Cantonese do not like really strong chillies, like a Sichuan.

0:09:03 > 0:09:06They don't want the freshness of the seafood

0:09:06 > 0:09:08to be crushed

0:09:08 > 0:09:10by strong seasoning.

0:09:11 > 0:09:14And just a lot of spring onions, and that's it.

0:09:18 > 0:09:21Perfect, just a few minutes.

0:09:23 > 0:09:26Next, pour hot oil on the spring onions and chillies,

0:09:26 > 0:09:31then add a good splash of soy sauce to bring out the flavours.

0:09:34 > 0:09:36It's very Cantonese, because it's steamed

0:09:36 > 0:09:39and minimum amount of seasoning.

0:09:40 > 0:09:42Great, good, can I try one?

0:09:43 > 0:09:46I love the way that you put coriander in there.

0:09:46 > 0:09:49I love it, I love the flavour of coriander.

0:09:52 > 0:09:53Mmm!

0:09:53 > 0:09:55- So sweet.- This is delicious.

0:09:55 > 0:09:57Out of this world.

0:10:01 > 0:10:05I'm making a quick stir-fry with razor clams,

0:10:05 > 0:10:08using traditional ingredients of chopped spring onion, chilli,

0:10:08 > 0:10:11and some garlic fried in oil.

0:10:15 > 0:10:18It's very rare they see a woman in the kitchen like this.

0:10:18 > 0:10:20Really?

0:10:20 > 0:10:22- Women don't do wok. - Everyone's stopped cooking!

0:10:24 > 0:10:26As in all Cantonese cooking, the main ingredient

0:10:26 > 0:10:29is plunged into hot water to remove the impurities.

0:10:32 > 0:10:36Remove the clams and reintroduce the seasonings to the hot wok.

0:10:36 > 0:10:40Add the shells, with some rice wine and a good pinch of salt.

0:10:40 > 0:10:43They're ready in just a couple of minutes.

0:10:47 > 0:10:50A little bit of soy sauce.

0:10:53 > 0:10:55That's it.

0:10:58 > 0:11:01- That's easy, shall we try?- Yes.

0:11:06 > 0:11:08Perfectly cooked.

0:11:08 > 0:11:09Good?

0:11:09 > 0:11:11You like it?

0:11:11 > 0:11:12Yeah, unbelievable.

0:11:12 > 0:11:15And you did it perfectly Cantonese,

0:11:15 > 0:11:18which meant the seasonings were not overwhelming,

0:11:18 > 0:11:21everything really matches the freshness.

0:11:24 > 0:11:25Thank you, Ken.

0:11:31 > 0:11:33There's one Cantonese food

0:11:33 > 0:11:36that we're all familiar with in the West - dim sum.

0:11:36 > 0:11:40I'm taking Ching to the locals' favourite restaurant

0:11:40 > 0:11:43in the city that gave birth to this worldwide delicacy.

0:11:45 > 0:11:48Eating it here is more a ritual than a dining experience.

0:11:48 > 0:11:52I want to bring you to the best dim sum in Guangzhou.

0:11:52 > 0:11:54I can't wait. Well, this is your town.

0:11:54 > 0:12:00Built in 1935, Guangzhou Restaurant is on three floors,

0:12:00 > 0:12:02serves up to 10,000 people every day,

0:12:02 > 0:12:05and employs chefs who train for decades.

0:12:05 > 0:12:08Isn't this beautiful? Wow.

0:12:08 > 0:12:10- I'll sit right next to you. - Thank you.

0:12:10 > 0:12:11This is very nice.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21What kind of things do you like?

0:12:22 > 0:12:26Some restaurants offer customers pre-prepared dishes,

0:12:26 > 0:12:29but here, everything is cooked fresh to order.

0:12:34 > 0:12:37There are hundreds of varieties of dim sum here,

0:12:37 > 0:12:40from steamed dumplings to chicken feet,

0:12:40 > 0:12:42and one of my favourites,

0:12:42 > 0:12:45lotus leaves stuffed with sticky rice.

0:12:46 > 0:12:47Shall we split one first?

0:12:47 > 0:12:49Yeah, let's have this one.

0:12:49 > 0:12:50OK, I love this, let's share.

0:12:50 > 0:12:52That's beautiful.

0:12:52 > 0:12:55And what I love is to see all the beautiful inside

0:12:55 > 0:13:00look at that - mushroom, pork, belly pork,

0:13:00 > 0:13:04and that looks like a little bit of chicken, salted duck egg.

0:13:04 > 0:13:07Look at how much skill has gone into it.

0:13:07 > 0:13:10And just because it's cheap doesn't mean that it shouldn't be up there

0:13:10 > 0:13:12as one of the best cuisines in the world.

0:13:12 > 0:13:15- And it's perfection. - It's perfection.

0:13:17 > 0:13:21The tradition of eating dim sum started centuries ago

0:13:21 > 0:13:24in small tea houses along the Silk Road.

0:13:24 > 0:13:27Yum cha, which means "drink tea",

0:13:27 > 0:13:29is a ritual that goes hand in hand with dim sum.

0:13:29 > 0:13:34It's the Cantonese equivalent of having a biscuit with your cuppa.

0:13:35 > 0:13:38Here, where tea is considered the elixir of life,

0:13:38 > 0:13:40granting the drinker eternal youth,

0:13:40 > 0:13:43this part of the tradition is taken very seriously.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48Now she's going to make the tea for us.

0:13:48 > 0:13:53See, it's the ritual, she had rinsed it before.

0:13:54 > 0:13:57'There's also a Cantonese etiquette when taking tea.'

0:13:57 > 0:14:00No, no, it's always the duty of the younger one

0:14:00 > 0:14:02to pour tea for the elder.

0:14:02 > 0:14:03You know, we always say thank you,

0:14:03 > 0:14:06especially in Cantonese, like that.

0:14:07 > 0:14:10'Tapping the table is the polite way to say thank you

0:14:10 > 0:14:12'for having your tea cup filled.

0:14:12 > 0:14:16'Bending the fingers symbolises kowtowing

0:14:16 > 0:14:18'or bowing as a sign of respect.'

0:14:18 > 0:14:19- Why is that?- Well, the legend

0:14:19 > 0:14:21comes from the time of Qianlong,

0:14:21 > 0:14:25which is one of the greatest emperors in the last dynasty.

0:14:25 > 0:14:28And he had gone out with his retainers

0:14:28 > 0:14:32- to tour the country incognito. - In disguise?

0:14:32 > 0:14:34Exactly.

0:14:34 > 0:14:38And when he poured tea or gave some food to some of his retainers,

0:14:38 > 0:14:41they couldn't bow without revealing his identity.

0:14:41 > 0:14:44So they did this, that's the legend.

0:14:44 > 0:14:47So, you see people doing that all the time.

0:14:47 > 0:14:49Yes, all the time.

0:14:49 > 0:14:52When I was bad, when I was a child...

0:14:52 > 0:14:54I can't imagine you being a naughty child!

0:14:54 > 0:14:58What I had to do was I had to offer tea, I had to kowtow to my mother,

0:14:58 > 0:15:03on my knees and offer her a cup of tea

0:15:03 > 0:15:06in front of all the Chinese neighbours,

0:15:06 > 0:15:10and when she accepted it, that meant she accepted my apology.

0:15:16 > 0:15:21This restaurant is very popular with locals.

0:15:21 > 0:15:23SPEAKING CANTONESE

0:15:27 > 0:15:29Friends Leu Peilan and Liao Shaoguang

0:15:29 > 0:15:31are its most loyal regulars.

0:15:45 > 0:15:48She says, in 50 years, I can eat through the menu!

0:15:48 > 0:15:50Oh, right, she knows the menu off by heart!

0:15:54 > 0:15:58He said, "Of course it's better than cooking at home!"

0:15:59 > 0:16:02I don't want to deprive the restaurant of its best customers,

0:16:02 > 0:16:04but after 52 years cooking

0:16:04 > 0:16:07for celebrities, presidents and royalty, I'm certain

0:16:07 > 0:16:10I can persuade them to try some authentic home cooking.

0:16:11 > 0:16:14While Ching takes a break, I've offered

0:16:14 > 0:16:16to prepare a meal for them at Mrs Liao's house.

0:16:19 > 0:16:23I thought, OK, that's a good opportunity for me to actually

0:16:23 > 0:16:29make sweet and sour as we Cantonese make it, which is the real thing.

0:16:29 > 0:16:31I've come to the old Bao Hau road

0:16:31 > 0:16:35to buy ingredients for my sweet and sour pork.

0:16:37 > 0:16:40Guangzhou is in China's wealthiest province.

0:16:40 > 0:16:41Thanks to manufacturing,

0:16:41 > 0:16:44people here are among the country's highest earners.

0:16:44 > 0:16:47They demand quality and variety in their food,

0:16:47 > 0:16:51and in this market, you can buy almost anything.

0:16:54 > 0:16:56Live frogs.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59You know what we call live frogs?

0:16:59 > 0:17:00Chicken of the fields.

0:17:00 > 0:17:02There's a famous saying that

0:17:02 > 0:17:05we Cantonese eat everything on four legs except the table,

0:17:05 > 0:17:08anything that flies, except an airplane.

0:17:08 > 0:17:12Well, this would be nice to put in sweet and sour,

0:17:12 > 0:17:14it's very unusual - mangosteen.

0:17:16 > 0:17:20Mangosteens are a South Asian fruit with a sweet, tangy flesh,

0:17:20 > 0:17:23which makes them ideal for this dish.

0:17:25 > 0:17:28I got mangosteen and some pear apples.

0:17:28 > 0:17:31I learnt how to cook sweet and sour pork from my Uncle Paul,

0:17:31 > 0:17:34who had a restaurant in Chicago's China Town.

0:17:34 > 0:17:37He taught me which cuts of meat to look for.

0:17:45 > 0:17:49I'm using the most tender part of the pork,

0:17:49 > 0:17:52not the belly that needs more cooking, but a piece that

0:17:52 > 0:17:56I can stir-fry very quickly and toss in the sweet and sour sauce.

0:18:00 > 0:18:04Mrs Liao is retired and lives in the commercial district of Guangzhou.

0:18:06 > 0:18:09It looks like word of my visit has spread.

0:18:09 > 0:18:13Mrs Liao has invited the entire neighbourhood!

0:18:16 > 0:18:18That's a Chinese Buddha.

0:18:18 > 0:18:20Chinese Buddhas are always fat.

0:18:22 > 0:18:24Mrs Liao could not have displayed religious icons

0:18:24 > 0:18:27during the Cultural Revolution but, since 1978,

0:18:27 > 0:18:32the Chinese constitution has guaranteed freedom of worship.

0:18:32 > 0:18:34This is quite lovely.

0:18:34 > 0:18:37I have the same thing in my home in Thailand.

0:18:38 > 0:18:42It's 23 years since I was last in Guangzhou,

0:18:42 > 0:18:44so before I cook dinner, I'm keen to hear

0:18:44 > 0:18:46how life has changed for its residents.

0:18:46 > 0:18:49SPEAKING CANTONESE

0:19:01 > 0:19:06It's beautiful, they said, "We're so happy because we have

0:19:06 > 0:19:11"stability and peace. We can eat things, we can do what we want,

0:19:11 > 0:19:13"and for people who are retired now,

0:19:13 > 0:19:16"we don't have to worry about instability in society.

0:19:16 > 0:19:23"We can go out and walk, whatever, we are not afraid to be mugged.

0:19:21 > 0:19:23"Food is abundant."

0:19:25 > 0:19:29She said, "It's great, we've never had it so good.

0:19:29 > 0:19:32"The level of happiness is incredibly high."

0:19:33 > 0:19:35Before, even if you had money,

0:19:35 > 0:19:38there's nothing to buy, you have to queue up to buy nothing,

0:19:38 > 0:19:40she said, you couldn't buy anything.

0:19:40 > 0:19:43And she said, "We have such peace and we can buy anything we want,

0:19:43 > 0:19:46"we can eat." She said, "Now we worry about getting fat!"

0:19:46 > 0:19:49Not worried about not having enough to eat, but getting fat.

0:19:49 > 0:19:52You couldn't buy anything, it was like wartime.

0:19:52 > 0:19:56For dinner, I'm making an authentic sweet and sour pork,

0:19:56 > 0:20:00nothing like the sugary, glowing, red version available in the West.

0:20:00 > 0:20:02I'm just going to do

0:20:02 > 0:20:05a sort of typical Chinese marinade,

0:20:05 > 0:20:07which is a little bit of soy sauce.

0:20:09 > 0:20:13And this is an interesting rice wine which I've never seen,

0:20:13 > 0:20:16because rice wine will just add a bit of flavour.

0:20:16 > 0:20:20I thought this might be very nice in the sweet and sour,

0:20:20 > 0:20:24which is very unusual - mangosteen, which is really lovely.

0:20:25 > 0:20:28Mangosteens are hard to get in the West,

0:20:28 > 0:20:31so if you want to make this dish at home, use pineapple,

0:20:31 > 0:20:33or try experimenting with other fruit

0:20:33 > 0:20:36to give the dish its sweet flavour.

0:20:36 > 0:20:38And this is just some pear apple,

0:20:38 > 0:20:40which will give a texture.

0:20:40 > 0:20:44I'm also adding water chestnuts and young garlic,

0:20:44 > 0:20:46which look a lot like spring onions.

0:20:49 > 0:20:52I'm quickly frying the marinated pork with vegetable oil

0:20:52 > 0:20:53to seal in the flavours.

0:20:53 > 0:20:58Everywhere you go in Canton, they use this very mild red chilli

0:20:58 > 0:21:02in many of their dishes, so I thought I'd do the same.

0:21:03 > 0:21:06Along with the chillies, young garlic, and water chestnuts,

0:21:06 > 0:21:11I'm adding a splash of rice vinegar, which gives the dish its sourness.

0:21:12 > 0:21:15I'm going to add a little bit of the stock that I made

0:21:15 > 0:21:19with bits of pork and a little bit of chicken stock.

0:21:21 > 0:21:23This is just sugar.

0:21:23 > 0:21:26Now we're just going to thicken the sauce

0:21:26 > 0:21:28with a little bit of corn flour and water.

0:21:28 > 0:21:31After a quick taste, add the fruit -

0:21:31 > 0:21:36Asian pears, pineapple and mangosteen,

0:21:36 > 0:21:38followed by the pork.

0:21:38 > 0:21:41She said, "You're a bright boy!"

0:21:41 > 0:21:43Nobody's ever called me a boy for a long time.

0:21:53 > 0:21:55They said, the flavours are really nice.

0:21:55 > 0:21:57A bit of East meets West!

0:22:07 > 0:22:09Whilst Ken is cooking for the locals,

0:22:09 > 0:22:13I'm at Guangdong's medicine market with physician Dr Shu.

0:22:15 > 0:22:18I've been travelling for so long and I'm really tired,

0:22:18 > 0:22:21so what can I take that's going to lift my spirits

0:22:21 > 0:22:23and boost my energy?

0:22:23 > 0:22:26'She's going to help me make an energy-boosting tonic

0:22:26 > 0:22:29'before I travel to Taiwan to see my family.'

0:22:34 > 0:22:36OK.

0:22:40 > 0:22:42That would be wonderful, thank you.

0:22:43 > 0:22:46'Dr Shu's a practising gynaecologist

0:22:46 > 0:22:48'but, like many Chinese doctors,

0:22:48 > 0:22:51'she combines modern and traditional medicine.'

0:22:51 > 0:22:53There's a big history and there's, what,

0:22:53 > 0:22:55over 13,000 different herbs? Is that true?

0:22:55 > 0:22:57Yes, that's right.

0:22:57 > 0:22:59'To go with the chicken,

0:22:59 > 0:23:01'I need some fruit to help boost my immune system.'

0:23:03 > 0:23:07This is goji, everyone in the West knows goji berries.

0:23:07 > 0:23:09I love this just steeped with some tea.

0:23:09 > 0:23:13My mum always says, drink this cos it's good for your eyes.

0:23:13 > 0:23:15Yeah, it's good for eyes.

0:23:15 > 0:23:17And it tastes sweet, you know?

0:23:17 > 0:23:19A little bit sweet.

0:23:19 > 0:23:23So, we're going to get just a small handful of the goji berries.

0:23:23 > 0:23:26This is going to go into this stew

0:23:26 > 0:23:29with black chicken and dang gui.

0:23:30 > 0:23:32'Dang gui is the root of a plant

0:23:32 > 0:23:34'which we know in the West as Angelica.

0:23:34 > 0:23:37'It's supposed to help circulation.'

0:23:37 > 0:23:41Apparently, this is the best herb for women.

0:23:41 > 0:23:44It's going to keep all the organs down there working.

0:23:44 > 0:23:46'With all the key ingredients in the bag,

0:23:46 > 0:23:48'Dr Shu takes me back to her home to make the soup.'

0:23:50 > 0:23:55'As Guangzhou has developed, so has the housing market.

0:23:55 > 0:23:57'Now many young, successful Cantonese

0:23:57 > 0:23:59'live in modern apartments like this.'

0:23:59 > 0:24:01- Did you buy that from the market? - Yeah.

0:24:02 > 0:24:03'The black chicken we're cooking

0:24:03 > 0:24:06'doesn't just get its name from its feathers.

0:24:06 > 0:24:08'It's black on the inside, too,

0:24:08 > 0:24:10'from the skin and meat, right down to the bone.'

0:24:12 > 0:24:15I haven't seen black-skin chicken in the UK,

0:24:15 > 0:24:20but I know that you can buy it from some Chinese supermarkets,

0:24:20 > 0:24:22I think they're frozen.

0:24:22 > 0:24:26'It's been used in Chinese medicine for over 1,000 years,

0:24:26 > 0:24:28'and today, it's considered a superfood

0:24:28 > 0:24:32'because of the bird's high levels of anti-oxidants.'

0:24:33 > 0:24:38'In Chinese medicine, it's believed the body has two energies,

0:24:38 > 0:24:41'yin and yang, which should always be balanced.'

0:24:41 > 0:24:46In its simplest form, yin is very cooling, yang is very fiery.

0:24:46 > 0:24:49- Yeah.- So, if you're tired, you're stressed,

0:24:49 > 0:24:52you're not feeling well, your body's probably...

0:24:52 > 0:24:53When you feel sort of thirsty.

0:24:53 > 0:24:57..if you're feeling thirsty, you're probably very yang, too much yang.

0:24:57 > 0:24:59So you need to eat cooling foods, yin foods...

0:24:59 > 0:25:02- Yes, a little bit of cool. - ..to balance it.

0:25:02 > 0:25:07So this, the chicken, inherently is yin, but the ingredients

0:25:07 > 0:25:10we'll be putting will have different properties, right?

0:25:18 > 0:25:21There's got to be some science in it,

0:25:21 > 0:25:24because when anyone feels ill in any culture,

0:25:24 > 0:25:26they go for the chicken soup.

0:25:26 > 0:25:31OK, so we've got the goji berries, and then this is the dang gui.

0:25:33 > 0:25:36'We also picked up something else at the market,

0:25:36 > 0:25:37'which is full of vitamin C.'

0:25:37 > 0:25:40Dried Chinese dates.

0:25:40 > 0:25:44So just put straight in, into the water, yeah?

0:25:47 > 0:25:50The ingredients go into the pot to boil.

0:25:54 > 0:25:56It's got that dang gui smell!

0:25:56 > 0:26:00I was expecting to eat the chicken, and she's saying no,

0:26:00 > 0:26:06Cantonese-style tonic broths, you don't eat the actual meat.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10After boiling for about an hour, it's ready

0:26:10 > 0:26:13and, in true Cantonese style, we garnish it

0:26:13 > 0:26:16with spring onions and coriander.

0:26:16 > 0:26:20Bon appetit! Thank you for this, this looks very healthy, very clean.

0:26:24 > 0:26:27Mmm! That is really good.

0:26:28 > 0:26:30You just know that it's doing you wonders.

0:26:30 > 0:26:32And it's easy to make!

0:26:32 > 0:26:35Just put it all in a pot, can't get better than that.

0:26:44 > 0:26:46Before I visit my father's family tomorrow,

0:26:46 > 0:26:48I'm taking a walk in the city's

0:26:48 > 0:26:51old colonial area, Shamian Island,

0:26:51 > 0:26:54which is where my parents did some of their courting.

0:26:57 > 0:27:00My father was a GI and he fought in WWII,

0:27:00 > 0:27:03and he got leave after the war.

0:27:03 > 0:27:07And he chose to come here, where he met my mother,

0:27:07 > 0:27:09and they fell in love.

0:27:11 > 0:27:14My parents emigrated to America as newlyweds,

0:27:14 > 0:27:18but my father died when I was just eight months old, aged 33.

0:27:18 > 0:27:22My mother brought me up alone in Chicago's China Town.

0:27:24 > 0:27:25My father never existed for me,

0:27:25 > 0:27:27except in photographs.

0:27:27 > 0:27:29My mother never talked about him

0:27:29 > 0:27:30very much, so...

0:27:32 > 0:27:35..I grew up with him only as an image.

0:27:36 > 0:27:40My mum never remarried, and I think she was

0:27:40 > 0:27:41of the old traditional

0:27:41 > 0:27:43Chinese school that,

0:27:43 > 0:27:44if you have children,

0:27:44 > 0:27:45then you didn't remarry,

0:27:45 > 0:27:50so that feels kind of sad for her.

0:27:55 > 0:27:57Apart from my father and me,

0:27:57 > 0:28:00my mother had two other great loves in her life.

0:28:00 > 0:28:02The game of mah jong,

0:28:02 > 0:28:03and Cantonese opera.

0:28:03 > 0:28:06Before we go our separate ways,

0:28:06 > 0:28:09I want to share this traditional Cantonese art form with Ching.

0:28:16 > 0:28:20Cantonese opera dates back to the 16th century

0:28:20 > 0:28:23and had its heyday in the 1920s.

0:28:23 > 0:28:28Today, a few Guangzhou restaurants put on daily performances.

0:28:28 > 0:28:30It's kind of surreal, cos I feel like

0:28:30 > 0:28:33I've just come to a restaurant, but they're performing.

0:28:33 > 0:28:37It's really beautiful though, I really love the costumes.

0:28:37 > 0:28:39And it's very old fashioned.

0:28:39 > 0:28:43You see, most of these people are of a certain age here,

0:28:43 > 0:28:45they're not working, they're probably retired.

0:28:47 > 0:28:48Before widespread education,

0:28:48 > 0:28:53Cantonese opera taught morals and messages to its audiences.

0:28:53 > 0:28:56Are they all based on, like, old legends?

0:28:56 > 0:29:01- Yes, legends, very famous stories, tales...- Tales, fables.

0:29:01 > 0:29:04It's not only what they say, it's what they're gesturing,

0:29:04 > 0:29:05a lot of gesturing.

0:29:05 > 0:29:07Do you see? It comes from Tai Chi,

0:29:07 > 0:29:10like when they go like that, that's very Chinese.

0:29:11 > 0:29:15Today, these performances are more like variety shows,

0:29:15 > 0:29:17put on for the elderly and tourists.

0:29:19 > 0:29:21This is the aria from my mum's favourite opera,

0:29:21 > 0:29:27and, oh, I mean, God knows how many times I've heard this!

0:29:28 > 0:29:30APPLAUSE

0:29:35 > 0:29:40Our time in Guangdong Province has come to an end.

0:29:40 > 0:29:42Whilst Ken stays on to visit his relatives,

0:29:42 > 0:29:44I'm going home to see my family in Taiwan.

0:29:46 > 0:29:49I miss my family and I really... I'm looking forward to seeing them,

0:29:49 > 0:29:53but I feel like it's going to be quite emotional,

0:29:53 > 0:29:56cos I haven't seen them in a long time.

0:29:57 > 0:30:02This whole journey is about discovery and learning,

0:30:02 > 0:30:05and it's just the last leg of the journey now,

0:30:05 > 0:30:10so it's all culminating in this sort of homecoming.

0:30:10 > 0:30:13I feel I'm proud to be Chinese,

0:30:13 > 0:30:18and I wasn't always proud to be Chinese.

0:30:18 > 0:30:23When I was growing up in the UK, all I wanted was to be English.

0:30:24 > 0:30:27Now, you know, through cooking,

0:30:27 > 0:30:30I've found my Chinese part of myself,

0:30:30 > 0:30:32and the more I've learned, the more I've discovered,

0:30:32 > 0:30:35and the more I've eaten my way around China,

0:30:35 > 0:30:38the more that I'm in love with it.

0:30:38 > 0:30:42And so I feel like I'm kind of coming full circle.

0:30:42 > 0:30:44But the circle's not quite complete yet.

0:30:47 > 0:30:50Taiwan is an island 112 miles off the south-east coast of China

0:30:50 > 0:30:55which separated from Chinese rule 100 years ago.

0:30:57 > 0:30:59Although I was born in Taiwan,

0:30:59 > 0:31:02I left with my parents when I was five

0:31:02 > 0:31:04and eventually settled in London.

0:31:06 > 0:31:09Sometimes, I feel a bit anxious when I come back to Taiwan

0:31:09 > 0:31:12because I don't feel 100% Taiwanese.

0:31:12 > 0:31:16So over the years, when I have visited,

0:31:16 > 0:31:21there's a sense of, oh, you know, my Taiwanese, my language,

0:31:21 > 0:31:25you know, my vocabulary, my etiquette, my manners...

0:31:25 > 0:31:30all of it is not quite, you know, up to scratch.

0:31:32 > 0:31:36My parents moved back to Taiwan in 2009.

0:31:39 > 0:31:42I haven't seen you in a long time! I miss you a lot!

0:31:45 > 0:31:48We're travelling today to the farming area of Baihe village,

0:31:48 > 0:31:50where my food journey began as a little girl

0:31:50 > 0:31:52in my grandmother's kitchen.

0:31:55 > 0:31:57So we're going to see my grandfather,

0:31:57 > 0:32:00to see where my mum and all her family grew up.

0:32:00 > 0:32:04And where I grew up from when I was two to five years old.

0:32:04 > 0:32:07We're going to go and burn some incense for my grandmother,

0:32:07 > 0:32:10and then I'm going to cook for the whole family.

0:32:11 > 0:32:15This will be the first time I've seen my grandfather

0:32:15 > 0:32:18since my grandmother passed away two years ago.

0:32:19 > 0:32:21Here we are!

0:32:22 > 0:32:25SPEAKS TAIWANESE

0:32:39 > 0:32:41This is where I grew up.

0:32:41 > 0:32:45This is our small courtyard, this belongs to my grandfather.

0:32:45 > 0:32:48This is where we used to play, my brother and I, and cousins.

0:32:54 > 0:32:56He's saying this is 84 years old.

0:32:56 > 0:32:59My grandfather's lived here since he was two.

0:33:01 > 0:33:05That's the entrance there, you can come through.

0:33:09 > 0:33:14My grandmother, as well as all these great aunts, always like sisters,

0:33:14 > 0:33:16and they all cooked for everybody.

0:33:16 > 0:33:19'Today, I'm stepping into my grandmother's shoes,

0:33:19 > 0:33:22'cooking some of the dishes she taught me.

0:33:22 > 0:33:24'And I know the family has high expectations.'

0:33:28 > 0:33:31Everyone's waiting for lunch.

0:33:31 > 0:33:34Everyone's saying, "When are you going to cook lunch?"

0:33:43 > 0:33:46Before lunch, my grandfather and I share a quiet moment

0:33:46 > 0:33:48to mark Qingming festival,

0:33:48 > 0:33:52when families remember loved ones who have passed on.

0:33:54 > 0:33:58This is my great-grandfather, my great-grandmother

0:33:58 > 0:34:01and my great-great-grandparents.

0:34:04 > 0:34:08It seems fitting that this is the room where my family

0:34:08 > 0:34:11so often came together to share my grandmother's food,

0:34:11 > 0:34:14and it's where today, we will take time to remember her.

0:34:25 > 0:34:29'I've travelled 87 miles from Guangzhou to the city of Kaiping,

0:34:29 > 0:34:33'to spend a couple of days with cousins on my father's side,

0:34:33 > 0:34:36'who I've not seen for 23 years.

0:34:36 > 0:34:40'I'm struck by how much this place has changed.'

0:34:40 > 0:34:44God, I have never seen so many four-wheel drives.

0:34:48 > 0:34:51I think there has been a recent survey that says,

0:34:51 > 0:34:56for the first time in China, more than 50%, half of the people,

0:34:56 > 0:35:00are living in urban areas now, instead of in the countryside.

0:35:00 > 0:35:03That's a remarkable change, when you think

0:35:03 > 0:35:07that China has always been at least 80% to 90% peasants.

0:35:13 > 0:35:18Up until the 1990s, my cousins were full-time farmers,

0:35:18 > 0:35:21but as China began to accept private enterprise,

0:35:21 > 0:35:24they moved to the city and set up a successful restaurant.

0:35:27 > 0:35:31I'm kind of curious to meet them and actually to learn more

0:35:31 > 0:35:36about parts of my family's past which I don't know.

0:35:36 > 0:35:41This is my last visit, when I took my mother and, actually, her sister.

0:35:41 > 0:35:45I know quite a bit about my mum's family.

0:35:45 > 0:35:48My dad's family was sort of a mystery.

0:35:48 > 0:35:51This is a great opportunity for me to reconnect.

0:35:51 > 0:35:53Hopefully, over food.

0:35:53 > 0:35:57I think it will be about coming to terms

0:35:57 > 0:36:01about who I am and, sort of, where my place is.

0:36:16 > 0:36:17Hello!

0:36:17 > 0:36:19SPEAKING CANTONESE

0:37:05 > 0:37:07'I've brought the young ones

0:37:07 > 0:37:09'silver dollars.

0:37:09 > 0:37:10'In China, it's traditional

0:37:10 > 0:37:12'to give coins in an envelope

0:37:12 > 0:37:14'as tokens of good luck.'

0:37:25 > 0:37:27Well, they loved my mum a lot.

0:37:27 > 0:37:29It's, uh...

0:37:29 > 0:37:30It's evident.

0:37:30 > 0:37:32And they said they...

0:37:32 > 0:37:36When they heard she had passed on, they did a lot of offerings to her,

0:37:36 > 0:37:38so that was very nice.

0:37:39 > 0:37:43This morning, my cousins are taking me to our ancestral village

0:37:43 > 0:37:45in the Foshan region of Guangdong.

0:37:47 > 0:37:49It's an area dominated by paddy fields,

0:37:49 > 0:37:52where my father's family were rice farmers

0:37:52 > 0:37:55going back several generations.

0:37:55 > 0:37:57I said, "Is it hard work?"

0:37:57 > 0:38:01She said, "Well, when you're young, I mean, you don't think about it,

0:38:01 > 0:38:07"how backbreaking it really is to plant each stalk of rice."

0:38:07 > 0:38:11She has to get down there, bend down to do that,

0:38:11 > 0:38:14and they say when people actually eat,

0:38:14 > 0:38:17they have no idea where it comes from and how it's harvested.

0:38:32 > 0:38:35My family are gathering at my grandparents' grave

0:38:35 > 0:38:39to mark Qingming, an annual ceremony of grave sweeping,

0:38:39 > 0:38:44when relatives meet to tidy the burial sites of their loved ones.

0:38:53 > 0:38:56Traditionally, it's believed that the spirits of the dead

0:38:56 > 0:39:01will look after their living family if they're offered gifts of food

0:39:01 > 0:39:04and fake money to keep them happy in the afterlife.

0:39:07 > 0:39:11Despite the occasion, it can be quite a lively event.

0:39:19 > 0:39:21It's very different, our attitude.

0:39:21 > 0:39:26If you think of something like this in the West, it's very sombre.

0:39:26 > 0:39:28I mean, nobody would think of...

0:39:28 > 0:39:31This is almost like a picnic here.

0:39:41 > 0:39:44Before we eat, we must fulfil one last Chinese custom.

0:40:00 > 0:40:02Wow!

0:40:02 > 0:40:04Well, no evil spirits will come here now!

0:40:10 > 0:40:12This is my grandmother's kitchen.

0:40:14 > 0:40:19This is the big wok, this is how much to feed a whole big family.

0:40:21 > 0:40:23I would sit around watching, all here,

0:40:23 > 0:40:26all this I remember, at that height.

0:40:28 > 0:40:31The kitchen's just as my grandmother left it,

0:40:31 > 0:40:35and today, I'm cooking some of her favourite dishes for the family.

0:40:38 > 0:40:41The idea is to make a lunch

0:40:41 > 0:40:45in honour of my grandmother.

0:40:46 > 0:40:51So, she used to make delicious hama, clams.

0:40:53 > 0:40:58And prawns, she used to make drunken prawns - prawns drunk with wine.

0:40:58 > 0:41:03And then my favourite is zongzi, which is bamboo sticky rice,

0:41:03 > 0:41:06which my grandmother used to make for me,

0:41:06 > 0:41:07she was really good at making it.

0:41:11 > 0:41:15When you're cooking for so many, timing is crucial,

0:41:15 > 0:41:17so I've enlisted my mother as sous chef.

0:41:17 > 0:41:22We're starting with the most complicated dish - bamboo parcels.

0:41:25 > 0:41:26Mushrooms.

0:41:30 > 0:41:32These are dried Chinese mushrooms,

0:41:32 > 0:41:35they've already been stir-fried in a little bit of oil.

0:41:35 > 0:41:39But, of course, first, I pre-soaked just to soften them a little bit.

0:41:43 > 0:41:47So that's dried shrimp and some shallots, and it's all been

0:41:47 > 0:41:49already sort of stir-fried

0:41:49 > 0:41:50with a little bit of soy sauce.

0:41:50 > 0:41:55And then this is the rice, so stir-frying raw rice, basically,

0:41:55 > 0:41:59just to get that fragrant, get lots of the flavours going.

0:42:04 > 0:42:05Next, shape the bamboo leaf

0:42:05 > 0:42:07into a cup, fill it with some rice,

0:42:07 > 0:42:10a few pieces of braised pork belly,

0:42:10 > 0:42:11and another layer of rice.

0:42:15 > 0:42:18Then secure the parcels with string before you boil them.

0:42:20 > 0:42:23Now, the trick is to try and make them all the same size.

0:42:23 > 0:42:27They're all going to cook in the same time.

0:42:28 > 0:42:31I don't think my grandmother would approve, but one big, one small.

0:42:32 > 0:42:34Just 50 more to go!

0:42:47 > 0:42:49That looks good.

0:42:49 > 0:42:53And then what we do, we cook it.

0:42:53 > 0:42:55I'm going to boil it.

0:42:58 > 0:43:00Once it's cooked, you can use that knot to take it all out.

0:43:08 > 0:43:10I think I'm going to start with the prawns first.

0:43:12 > 0:43:15Next, I'm making one of my grandmother's signature dishes -

0:43:15 > 0:43:17drunken prawns.

0:43:17 > 0:43:19Get the wok nice and hot,

0:43:19 > 0:43:21add the prawns, a little ginger,

0:43:21 > 0:43:24and a good splash of rice wine to get the shellfish nice and tipsy.

0:43:28 > 0:43:31My grandmother used to make drunken prawns for us

0:43:31 > 0:43:33when we were growing up,

0:43:33 > 0:43:34really tasty.

0:43:34 > 0:43:36So, like, the bitter sweetness

0:43:36 > 0:43:37of the Shaoxing rice wine

0:43:37 > 0:43:40enhances the sweetness of the prawns,

0:43:40 > 0:43:43and these are local river prawns.

0:43:43 > 0:43:45Really good.

0:43:51 > 0:43:53My grandmother's speciality was seafood,

0:43:53 > 0:43:56so I'm making another of her favourite dishes -

0:43:56 > 0:43:59fresh clams with Chinese basil, soy sauce and rice wine.

0:44:01 > 0:44:04Just keep cooking until a lot of the shells have opened up.

0:44:09 > 0:44:13Once the food's ready, it's time to seat the guest of honour -

0:44:13 > 0:44:15my grandfather.

0:45:03 > 0:45:05My uncle said, "This is the best."

0:45:05 > 0:45:10It's got the best flavour, it's got the flavour of a Taiwanese basil.

0:45:14 > 0:45:16They all think that this food is really similar

0:45:16 > 0:45:18to what my grandmother used to cook.

0:45:18 > 0:45:20These are all her flavours.

0:45:20 > 0:45:23CONVERSATION FADES OUT

0:45:32 > 0:45:35I'm really happy because my grandfather just said,

0:45:35 > 0:45:36"Did you really make this?"

0:45:36 > 0:45:39and, "It's got Grandmother's flavour."

0:45:39 > 0:45:41It tastes like Grandmother's.

0:45:45 > 0:45:47'My grandfather's really vulnerable,'

0:45:47 > 0:45:48and I've never seen him emotional.

0:45:48 > 0:45:51He must really miss her a lot.

0:45:53 > 0:45:56My grandmother was an amazing woman,

0:45:56 > 0:46:00but she really groomed me to be a cook, at such a young age,

0:46:00 > 0:46:05and I didn't really think it would leave such an impression on me.

0:46:05 > 0:46:08They all give their hats off to my grandmother.

0:46:08 > 0:46:11You know, she was the cook, she was Exec Chef.

0:46:11 > 0:46:14She was the best one out of all of them.

0:46:15 > 0:46:19Now I really understand a bit of her more,

0:46:19 > 0:46:21through cooking and this kitchen.

0:46:21 > 0:46:24This was her life...you know.

0:46:25 > 0:46:27My food memory started here

0:46:27 > 0:46:30and I didn't think I'd grow up to be a cook.

0:46:30 > 0:46:33I didn't think it would shape me so much.

0:46:33 > 0:46:36I think I have come full circle.

0:47:11 > 0:47:14This farm has been in the Hom family for five generations.

0:47:14 > 0:47:17It's where my father grew up.

0:47:19 > 0:47:21Today, my cousins grow vegetables

0:47:21 > 0:47:23and raise poultry here for their restaurant in town.

0:47:23 > 0:47:25HE TALKS IN LOCAL DIALECT

0:47:25 > 0:47:27I said, "They look very tasty."

0:47:27 > 0:47:28They're beautiful.

0:47:30 > 0:47:31DOG BARKS

0:47:33 > 0:47:37I remember this, this is the old family kitchen.

0:47:44 > 0:47:45THEY TALK IN LOCAL DIALECT

0:47:59 > 0:48:02It's a revelation.

0:48:02 > 0:48:07She said that when my mum laid eyes on my dad,

0:48:07 > 0:48:08it was love at first sight.

0:48:08 > 0:48:11Nobody else, she would even be interested in.

0:48:11 > 0:48:13That's a revelation.

0:48:35 > 0:48:38After grave-sweeping, there's always a feast

0:48:38 > 0:48:42and, on this occasion, we're cooking together to celebrate my homecoming.

0:48:45 > 0:48:47This is what we call a family affair.

0:48:47 > 0:48:51Everybody pitches in, do their thing and help,

0:48:51 > 0:48:54because if we don't do that, we're not going to be eating!

0:48:54 > 0:48:55Everybody wants to eat.

0:48:55 > 0:48:58My cousin is going to make his, er,

0:48:58 > 0:49:02signature dish, which I never had, which is sweet and sour goose.

0:49:03 > 0:49:05The goose is fresh from the farm.

0:49:05 > 0:49:09Once it's coated in soy sauce to give it colour and flavour,

0:49:09 > 0:49:10my cousin deep fries it.

0:49:14 > 0:49:17What that does is, it seals the skin

0:49:17 > 0:49:18so that when he cooks it,

0:49:18 > 0:49:20the whole thing doesn't fall apart.

0:49:22 > 0:49:26He's braising it in a thick sauce made of rice vinegar,

0:49:26 > 0:49:29Chinese tomato ketchup, cane sugar,

0:49:29 > 0:49:32and salted, preserved plums,

0:49:32 > 0:49:35to give it the sweet and sour taste.

0:49:37 > 0:49:43Then he covers it and slowly simmers it until it's done.

0:49:44 > 0:49:46In one hour.

0:49:48 > 0:49:50While it cooks, I'm making

0:49:50 > 0:49:53bitter melon with black bean sauce.

0:49:53 > 0:49:56This is the great thing about cooking like this.

0:49:56 > 0:49:59The family all chips in

0:49:59 > 0:50:02and helps you do the prep, which is great.

0:50:02 > 0:50:04- I love it. - HE LAUGHS

0:50:05 > 0:50:08This is bitter melon, it's quite delicious,

0:50:08 > 0:50:12and you can actually get this fresh everywhere now,

0:50:12 > 0:50:16in Chinese supermarkets, and you need to take out the inside.

0:50:16 > 0:50:20It has a bitter flavour.

0:50:23 > 0:50:25She likes it.

0:50:25 > 0:50:28But I'm cooking this because my mum used to make it often.

0:50:28 > 0:50:34I used to walk into the door and I would hear the wok sizzle

0:50:34 > 0:50:37and I would hear all the food going into the wok,

0:50:37 > 0:50:40and so by the time I washed my hands and everything,

0:50:40 > 0:50:42the food would be on the table.

0:50:42 > 0:50:46In a few hours, we're going to have a feast here.

0:50:46 > 0:50:49I'm making a full-flavoured black bean sauce,

0:50:49 > 0:50:52which will go perfectly with the melon.

0:50:53 > 0:50:58This is classic. Garlic, ginger and black beans.

0:50:58 > 0:51:02I think this is the flavour that people who are outside of China

0:51:02 > 0:51:05probably are the most familiar with.

0:51:05 > 0:51:07These are the famous black beans

0:51:07 > 0:51:09that the world loves.

0:51:14 > 0:51:18We take vegetables and we blanch them,

0:51:18 > 0:51:21and it helps to give them a cleaner flavour.

0:51:21 > 0:51:24Now I'm draining it.

0:51:28 > 0:51:31Garlic, ginger and the black beans.

0:51:36 > 0:51:37Then add spring onions,

0:51:37 > 0:51:39mild red chillies...

0:51:40 > 0:51:41..and rice wine.

0:51:48 > 0:51:50Next, add the bitter melon pieces

0:51:50 > 0:51:53and a splash of water to tenderise them.

0:51:58 > 0:51:59Mmm...

0:52:02 > 0:52:04They need a bit more cooking.

0:52:07 > 0:52:11Just a little bit of sesame oil.

0:52:14 > 0:52:17Give it a nice sheen to that.

0:52:20 > 0:52:22My cousin is serving the goose

0:52:22 > 0:52:24in the traditional way, chopped.

0:52:25 > 0:52:28Tell me if that's not beautiful.

0:52:35 > 0:52:37They're all having a little booze!

0:52:43 > 0:52:44I think the most touching moment

0:52:44 > 0:52:46is not only seeing my family,

0:52:46 > 0:52:50but how we're actually united

0:52:50 > 0:52:54by our culinary passion,

0:52:54 > 0:52:56and the fact that I was able to cook and share food with them

0:52:56 > 0:53:00I thought was the best part.

0:53:08 > 0:53:10This is absolutely beautiful.

0:53:15 > 0:53:17What I've learned in Kaiping

0:53:17 > 0:53:19is a bit more of my family puzzle.

0:53:21 > 0:53:25I learnt more about my mum and dad meeting

0:53:25 > 0:53:29and how it was love at first sight. I thought that was quite touching.

0:53:29 > 0:53:32In many ways, I felt she'd more or less

0:53:32 > 0:53:34sacrificed her life for mine,

0:53:34 > 0:53:37but still hearing that

0:53:37 > 0:53:40she did have some moments of happiness.

0:53:52 > 0:53:57What actually makes me happiest coming here

0:53:57 > 0:53:59is to see in reality

0:53:59 > 0:54:04how the changes in China is reflected in my family.

0:54:04 > 0:54:07Their welfare has gone up, they're optimistic,

0:54:07 > 0:54:10they are looking with hope to the future.

0:54:11 > 0:54:13That's pretty fantastic.

0:54:15 > 0:54:16Bye-bye.

0:54:44 > 0:54:47After five weeks and more than

0:54:47 > 0:54:4913,000 miles crossing China,

0:54:49 > 0:54:53Ken and I reunite for our final dinner in Hong Kong.

0:54:59 > 0:55:01It feels fitting to end our journey

0:55:01 > 0:55:03in the city where East meets West.

0:55:06 > 0:55:09This view, I think has to be one of the most beautiful views

0:55:09 > 0:55:10in all of Asia.

0:55:10 > 0:55:13It's one of the best views in the world.

0:55:13 > 0:55:15I mean, Hong Kong. Look at that.

0:55:21 > 0:55:24I have learnt a lot on this trip.

0:55:24 > 0:55:25Actually, before coming,

0:55:25 > 0:55:28I actually wanted to experience most of the cities,

0:55:28 > 0:55:32because I am a city girl at heart. But going back to the roots,

0:55:32 > 0:55:35the basic roots, and going back to the countryside

0:55:35 > 0:55:38and learning from these farmers... You know, life is tough,

0:55:38 > 0:55:43it's not easy, and the way they live with such dignity really touched me.

0:55:43 > 0:55:46They put their food on the plate and it represents them.

0:55:46 > 0:55:49They cook for us and they share with us

0:55:49 > 0:55:52and they're giving a bit of themselves to us.

0:55:52 > 0:55:54What is amazing

0:55:54 > 0:55:55is how China has changed

0:55:55 > 0:55:57in such a short period of time.

0:55:57 > 0:56:00I mean, growing up, I saw China as being very poor,

0:56:00 > 0:56:03and not enough to eat and that sort of thing.

0:56:03 > 0:56:08It's transformed to the second economic power in the world.

0:56:08 > 0:56:10And its food is like that too,

0:56:10 > 0:56:13because 25 years ago, when I went throughout China,

0:56:13 > 0:56:15I was disappointed in Chinese food.

0:56:15 > 0:56:18Nobody cared about it, there was no passion.

0:56:18 > 0:56:22Now every place we've been to has been a more than pleasant surprise.

0:56:23 > 0:56:26Through food, we've been able to

0:56:26 > 0:56:28get beneath the skin of China.

0:56:31 > 0:56:34Unrecognisable. It's like the new frontier.

0:56:34 > 0:56:35We discovered a country

0:56:35 > 0:56:39that has emerged from the trauma of the Cultural Revolution.

0:56:39 > 0:56:40It's like a human epic.

0:56:40 > 0:56:43He's gone through all this hardship to arrive here

0:56:43 > 0:56:47and I think he embodies very much what China is about,

0:56:47 > 0:56:49- looking forward.- Yeah.

0:56:49 > 0:56:52The food culture that was in danger of being lost

0:56:52 > 0:56:54has been reinvigorated.

0:56:54 > 0:56:58Hands down, she is dumpling master of Beijing.

0:57:00 > 0:57:03China is revelling in its new-found freedom.

0:57:03 > 0:57:05You have these very small families

0:57:05 > 0:57:08that are starting businesses like this

0:57:08 > 0:57:10and who knows? Maybe in the next 30 years,

0:57:10 > 0:57:14there'll be a gigantic corporation, based on this family recipe.

0:57:14 > 0:57:18Even in the face of sweeping modernisation...

0:57:18 > 0:57:20I actually didn't expect this.

0:57:20 > 0:57:22A mass construction site.

0:57:22 > 0:57:25..ethnic minorities are preserving

0:57:25 > 0:57:27their traditional cultures and cuisines.

0:57:27 > 0:57:29Who eats the head?

0:57:29 > 0:57:32- The eldest here.- No, no, thank you!

0:57:32 > 0:57:34There's some Chinese traditions I don't like.

0:57:34 > 0:57:36THEY LAUGH

0:57:36 > 0:57:40Across China, home cooking is alive and well.

0:57:40 > 0:57:42I've never done it like that before.

0:57:42 > 0:57:45It's just, it's beautiful. I'm learning so much.

0:57:45 > 0:57:50While in the mega-cities, Chinese cuisine is reaching new heights.

0:57:50 > 0:57:54This is not like sweet and sour you've ever seen anywhere.

0:57:54 > 0:57:56It looks like a work of art.

0:57:56 > 0:58:00It's been a deeply personal journey that has helped us

0:58:00 > 0:58:03to understand more about our relationship with our homeland.

0:58:03 > 0:58:08It's all about our food. We're united by how we eat,

0:58:08 > 0:58:12and how our passion to eat is so important,

0:58:12 > 0:58:18and that's a recurring theme, I felt, throughout wherever we went.

0:58:18 > 0:58:21It's the essence of who we are.

0:58:21 > 0:58:24To China, its people,

0:58:24 > 0:58:27its cuisine, to its hope and to its future.

0:58:27 > 0:58:29Cheers.

0:58:47 > 0:58:51Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd