0:00:02 > 0:00:07"It was a valiant man who first adventured upon eating oysters."
0:00:07 > 0:00:10Do you know who said that? It was King James I.
0:00:10 > 0:00:15I know because we were playing a curious and rather trivial game.
0:00:15 > 0:00:20Talking of trivial pursuits, in this fishy, fun-filled programme,
0:00:20 > 0:00:23I explain the mysteries of the bouillabaisse,
0:00:23 > 0:00:28how to improve your sex life and explain the contents of my case.
0:01:09 > 0:01:14The oyster. The poor, crazy oyster.
0:01:14 > 0:01:18These androgynous aphrodisiacs, once the staple diet of apprentices,
0:01:18 > 0:01:25are now consumed by Gucci-shoed executives who swallow big deals and wine regardless of expense
0:01:25 > 0:01:30and are ignorant of the labour of love here on the Helford River,
0:01:30 > 0:01:33which provides the currency of their credibility.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36And a labour of love it is.
0:01:36 > 0:01:39In this damp, dim shed,
0:01:39 > 0:01:44a beautiful girl, her fingers clad in gloves, chips away the barnacles
0:01:44 > 0:01:48to make the silvery and sometimes creamy-brown shell more appealing
0:01:48 > 0:01:52before they are hand graded on this clacking Victorian roundabout
0:01:52 > 0:01:56and slid into the purifying tanks
0:01:56 > 0:02:00to await a seaweed-wrapped train journey to Paddington.
0:02:00 > 0:02:04My love of oysters - like all true love - has caused me pain.
0:02:04 > 0:02:07Good friends have shied from them
0:02:07 > 0:02:12and would-be lovers have said, "No, if you don't mind, I might be sick."
0:02:12 > 0:02:14How sad!
0:02:18 > 0:02:23I felt good, even involved, in this gentle industry
0:02:23 > 0:02:27and my mouth watered as I plucked fresh mussels from the tank to cook later.
0:02:31 > 0:02:32But something was wrong.
0:02:32 > 0:02:35On this fine autumnal day with the drizzle falling
0:02:35 > 0:02:38and the soft river lapping, I felt uneasy.
0:02:38 > 0:02:40The man who owned the place was clearly
0:02:40 > 0:02:43distressed by the frenetic activity of a film crew.
0:02:43 > 0:02:44And it was not until we struck up
0:02:44 > 0:02:49a conversation about rugby that this shy and gentle man began to trust,
0:02:49 > 0:02:51and tell me about his life and work on the river.
0:02:51 > 0:02:54And Lynn Hodges is passionate about that.
0:02:56 > 0:02:57I am speechless.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01This incredible view, and these fantastic oysters,
0:03:01 > 0:03:04and you live here. I mean, you must be the happiest man in the world.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07Yes, I do love my work. And I love the food I produce too.
0:03:07 > 0:03:11Tell me, everybody knows oysters in the restaurants and things,
0:03:11 > 0:03:15we've seen them come out the river and stuff, how old is one of these?
0:03:15 > 0:03:18They vary. Between five and seven years.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21It depends really on, if you get two hot summers in a row
0:03:21 > 0:03:25and get a very big growth, then you will get them in five years.
0:03:25 > 0:03:32But if you get cold summers, they take longer to grow. I can't...
0:03:32 > 0:03:34I'm going to carry on eating these for a few moments.
0:03:34 > 0:03:36You don't mind if I don't talk to you, do you?
0:03:36 > 0:03:39You don't really care much about this.
0:03:39 > 0:03:41What else has come from the river?
0:03:41 > 0:03:46This is all your territory, if you like. Cockles? Yes, the cockles.
0:03:46 > 0:03:51They are yours too? That's right. The winkles. And the mussels.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54And the mussels? You going to have a mussel?
0:03:54 > 0:03:58Might as well enjoy ourselves. That's right.
0:03:58 > 0:04:00They are a very rich orange colour. Can you see that?
0:04:00 > 0:04:02They are such a beautiful colour, these.
0:04:02 > 0:04:06Last year, on my birthday, the ripe old age of 40,
0:04:06 > 0:04:11I set out in a brilliant pub in Bridport, in Dorset,
0:04:11 > 0:04:15to try to eat 40 oysters, one for each year of my life.
0:04:15 > 0:04:18I got through 37. How much is the most you have ever eaten?
0:04:18 > 0:04:20Would you eat lots and lots? Oh, yes.
0:04:20 > 0:04:22I have eaten 60, 70 at a sitting.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25But the ideal amount, I think, is nine, ten oysters.
0:04:25 > 0:04:29One of the very important things of course is opening the damn things.
0:04:29 > 0:04:32I have had a feast, I'm having a great time, I don't want to stop.
0:04:32 > 0:04:36But can you just, for them, who, you know,
0:04:36 > 0:04:40people who apparently can't, who want to join in our good time?
0:04:40 > 0:04:43Just show them how you open the damn things.
0:04:43 > 0:04:48The important thing is to make sure that your thumb is down like that.
0:04:48 > 0:04:52A lot of people open it like that, then it goes into the hand and cuts.
0:04:52 > 0:04:59And we've lost a good oyster eater! If you get your finger like that,
0:04:59 > 0:05:02thumb, rather, like that, and you're in control...
0:05:02 > 0:05:05Come down on that. He has got these big fisherman's hands
0:05:05 > 0:05:08and you're not going to be able to see it unless you get...
0:05:08 > 0:05:10It is a cookery programme, it is quite important,
0:05:10 > 0:05:12can you put it in please? Right, thank you.
0:05:12 > 0:05:15And then you cut the mussel in the centre, lift it off,
0:05:15 > 0:05:19go over it like that, gently, in case you've taken any shell in.
0:05:19 > 0:05:23Cut the mussel underneath, and turn it over, and bring the fat side up.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25And that's a beautiful oyster, that one.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27The camera man is not terribly keen on oysters,
0:05:27 > 0:05:29I don't think he paid attention.
0:05:29 > 0:05:33That's a beautiful oyster, that one. Plump, isn't it? Yes.
0:05:35 > 0:05:38What we are today enjoying, this is all very luxurious for us.
0:05:38 > 0:05:42But 100 years ago, or so, it was the staple food of apprentices
0:05:42 > 0:05:44and working men and stuff like that.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48It was what people ate to survive, wasn't it? It wasn't a luxury then.
0:05:48 > 0:05:51No. When you go back to the 18th-century,
0:05:51 > 0:05:53oysters were produced everywhere.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58And in those days there were 400 million went into Billingsgate alone.
0:05:58 > 0:06:00400 million into Billingsgate? Yes.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02That's a very interesting, because the last time
0:06:02 > 0:06:05we quoted that figure, my director said I was talking nonsense.
0:06:05 > 0:06:09And it has now just been proved by an expert, Mr Pricthard.
0:06:09 > 0:06:12Thank you very much, 400 million. Into Billingsgate? That's right.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15How much would they have cost in those days? Very, very cheap.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18I have got a letter which was sent out years ago,
0:06:18 > 0:06:25and I think it was 45p for 100. Something like that.
0:06:25 > 0:06:2945p, by today's rate, for 100 oysters? No, old pennies, that is.
0:06:29 > 0:06:34Oh, God. And so what would they cost today?
0:06:34 > 0:06:38In London now they are anything from ?5.50 to ?15 for a dozen.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40Lord above. And who is making all the money?
0:06:40 > 0:06:44You are not making all that money? I think everybody is making a little.
0:06:44 > 0:06:48But we have got the little and leave the rest to somewhere else I think!
0:06:48 > 0:06:50How would you describe the taste of them?
0:06:50 > 0:06:56To me it is like sort of having a taste of scent rather than
0:06:56 > 0:06:59an actual thing. There is no unpleasant texture, it is delicious.
0:06:59 > 0:07:02But how would you describe it? I think it tastes of the sea.
0:07:02 > 0:07:05It is fresh and leaves a lovely taste in your mouth
0:07:05 > 0:07:08and gives you an appetite for your next course.
0:07:08 > 0:07:12Does it give you an appetite for women? Well, I don't know.
0:07:13 > 0:07:18I think the story for oysters does indicate that they
0:07:18 > 0:07:20help your sex life.
0:07:20 > 0:07:23I tell you what, eating these wonderful oysters,
0:07:23 > 0:07:26drinking the wine, it has given me such an appetite,
0:07:26 > 0:07:29I actually want to go and cook something myself now.
0:07:29 > 0:07:31Can I borrow your kitchen for a moment or two?
0:07:31 > 0:07:34Yes, and may I say, I have enjoyed your company very much? That's kind.
0:07:34 > 0:07:37I'll lead the way. OK, off we go to your kitchen then.
0:07:37 > 0:07:40Make a bit of a change from the rain.
0:07:40 > 0:07:41Now we've done our bit out there
0:07:41 > 0:07:43we can have a bit of fun for ourselves now.
0:07:44 > 0:07:49See the importance of my black box? It's got the tools of my trade in.
0:07:49 > 0:07:55If the worst comes to the worst, if the BBC goes bust, I can still get a job as a cook any day!
0:07:55 > 0:07:58Actually, a cook is what I am.
0:07:58 > 0:08:02I enjoyed the oysters outside, but Len did give me some mussels.
0:08:02 > 0:08:09I thought it would be good if I cooked Len's mussels, which have come from the river outside.
0:08:09 > 0:08:12Erica's kitchen is great.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14The important thing about mussels -
0:08:14 > 0:08:20it's got this bit, the beard, which it attachs itself to rocks with.
0:08:20 > 0:08:25Obviously, it's inedible. It's vital to rip that off.
0:08:25 > 0:08:28It's quite a hard task.
0:08:28 > 0:08:32Another thing that mussels do to confound all your best-laid plans
0:08:32 > 0:08:35is often they're full of mud.
0:08:35 > 0:08:39If you've cooked them and one is full of mud, you've blown it.
0:08:39 > 0:08:44The essential test is, with every mussel, push it sideways like that.
0:08:44 > 0:08:48If it was full of mud it would have separated into two halves of mud.
0:08:48 > 0:08:54Do clean off everything. If it has barnacles, scrape it with a knife.
0:08:54 > 0:08:57Get them as clean as you can.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01Now we want to get on with the cooking.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05Erica, whose kitchen this is, cleaned some of them for me earlier.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08Speeds things up.
0:09:08 > 0:09:13Because mussels are fun, because you can cook them in white wine -
0:09:13 > 0:09:18which is one of the ingredients of this dish - I'll open that.
0:09:18 > 0:09:23That's dry white wine. If you can't afford dry white wine, use cider.
0:09:23 > 0:09:29If you're going to stop eating mussels cos you've got no wine or cider, use water,
0:09:29 > 0:09:32but if you can, use wine.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35Other ingredients - one onion,
0:09:35 > 0:09:38garlic - make sure they can see this garlic -
0:09:38 > 0:09:44quite a bit of parsley - about that much - and we want some butter.
0:09:44 > 0:09:47You can't economise on these things.
0:09:47 > 0:09:52Chuck a quarter of a pound of butter into a pan like that.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55While the butter's melting,
0:09:55 > 0:09:58I'll crush the garlic. Don't peel the cloves -
0:09:58 > 0:10:02you don't eat the garlic, you just use the flavour.
0:10:02 > 0:10:09Don't waste your time. You could be having some wine instead of getting garlic skin under your nails.
0:10:09 > 0:10:17On the subject of wine, it's a myth that you have to drink white wine with fish. Red wine is all right.
0:10:17 > 0:10:20I'm going to have a drop of that...
0:10:20 > 0:10:23under this intense pressure we're working under...
0:10:23 > 0:10:27to eat oysters and cockles and things.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29Little slurp goes down well.
0:10:29 > 0:10:34Chop the onion... you can show off doing this.
0:10:34 > 0:10:37Chop it finely like that... and then back like that.
0:10:37 > 0:10:40Never cut your fingers
0:10:40 > 0:10:43because the mess is an inconvenience.
0:10:43 > 0:10:48Chop, chop, chop...as fast as you like or as slow as you like.
0:10:48 > 0:10:53I'm showing off, but I'd rather you didn't and cut your fingers.
0:10:53 > 0:10:57I'd rather you enjoyed the mussels. Take your time over it.
0:10:57 > 0:11:03This is a cheap meal to prepare - it's a feast, as well.
0:11:03 > 0:11:07Now we want all these elegantly prepared ingredients
0:11:07 > 0:11:10popped in to the melted butter.
0:11:10 > 0:11:15Just to remind you again, I'm sure you haven't paid proper attention,
0:11:15 > 0:11:18it is parsley, garlic, onions and butter.
0:11:18 > 0:11:23Right, maximum heat. I don't cook on electricity all that often.
0:11:23 > 0:11:30The last thing we did was on a boat with a camping gas thing, now electricity... Anyway...
0:11:30 > 0:11:34So, in they all go... all the lovely mussels.
0:11:34 > 0:11:37Might add a drop of white wine.
0:11:37 > 0:11:41Talking of which, I haven't had a drink for a while.
0:11:41 > 0:11:44Wouldn't do me any harm to have a quick slurp...
0:11:44 > 0:11:49It's hot in the kitchen so one needs a drink from time to time.
0:11:49 > 0:11:52Let them stew away for a while.
0:11:52 > 0:11:57You can stop because they've got to cook. Come back when I'm ready.
0:12:23 > 0:12:27OK, bring the camera in. I'm going to take the lid off.
0:12:27 > 0:12:32If it's all gone well, you'll see these little dreams opening up.
0:12:32 > 0:12:37Now you see... Look at those bubbling away.
0:12:37 > 0:12:41Always test the stuff.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43God, already tasting terribly good.
0:12:43 > 0:12:47I'll give those a little stir round with the thing now...
0:12:47 > 0:12:51See how they're beginning to open?
0:12:51 > 0:12:54Incidentally, any that don't open
0:12:54 > 0:12:57after this cooking process is complete, don't eat them.
0:12:57 > 0:13:00The ones that don't open are dead.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04Come right in there, Malcolm. You've got lovely colours in there.
0:13:04 > 0:13:08You've got a whole heart of food happening.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12Ladies and gentlemen, and people who we've met on this trip
0:13:12 > 0:13:15who have thought we were strange,
0:13:15 > 0:13:18there you have a magnificent dish of moules marinieres.
0:13:18 > 0:13:21HE INHALES DEEPLY
0:13:21 > 0:13:25Gosh! OK, so there we are. The cooking is done.
0:13:25 > 0:13:31We've got Erica's mixing bowl. I actually wanted fine porcelain,
0:13:31 > 0:13:35but beggars, which we are, I can assure you, we can't be choosers.
0:13:35 > 0:13:40Anyway, the mussels are cooked. Tip them into the bowl.
0:13:40 > 0:13:45I'm not putting all the juice in so I'm using a spoon with holes in it.
0:13:45 > 0:13:50We don't want to burn our little artists' fingers when we eat them.
0:13:50 > 0:13:55We're going to drink the sauce a little bit separately later on.
0:13:55 > 0:13:57That was one for the queen.
0:13:57 > 0:14:04God, I am actually quite hungry, despite all the oysters we had earlier on...
0:14:04 > 0:14:09Hold on a minute, hold it, hold it... They are hot.
0:14:12 > 0:14:13Hot...
0:14:16 > 0:14:17..but good!
0:14:17 > 0:14:19Very, very good.
0:14:19 > 0:14:24If you just hold on a minute, you just gaze at these, would you?
0:14:24 > 0:14:30I want to get Erica. They're very beautiful. Erica, can you spare a moment? Erica?
0:14:30 > 0:14:35Yes? Sorry to interrupt, can you come through to your kitchen?
0:14:35 > 0:14:38We've left you a dreadful mess.
0:14:38 > 0:14:44Come round. This is Erica. We've ruined her kitchen all day, we've trampled all over the lawn,
0:14:44 > 0:14:49we've abused her oyster farm, we've used her electricity and gas,
0:14:49 > 0:14:54all I have for you is - the choice is yours - some mussels or a kiss.
0:14:54 > 0:14:57Ooh! Which will you have? A kiss.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02Mmm! Thanks so much! We've enjoyed being here and that's everybody.
0:15:02 > 0:15:06It's been great. You're welcome. Very welcome.
0:15:06 > 0:15:12Can we try a mussel, too? I wish you wouldn't interrupt! It's my programme! Have a mussel, anyway!
0:15:12 > 0:15:17They're quite hot. Then let me give you a little bit of juice.
0:15:17 > 0:15:19I know they're in here...
0:15:19 > 0:15:24Yes... Tell you what, put a little bit of juice in there, as well.
0:15:24 > 0:15:28If you don't like it, tell them.
0:15:28 > 0:15:33If you say you don't like it we can cut it out of the film later... Mmm!
0:15:33 > 0:15:36Lovely. Mmm! Beautiful!
0:15:36 > 0:15:38Thanks a lot.
0:15:42 > 0:15:45BELL RINGS
0:15:45 > 0:15:50The day dawned, the bell rang and fishermen with phones began to deal.
0:15:50 > 0:15:53Newlyn has inspired artists for a century.
0:15:53 > 0:15:59It inspired me as I picked fish for a classic French bouillabaisse.
0:15:59 > 0:16:04It's a good choice as 70% of these fish are destined for France.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08Tony Stephenson helped me choose the fish.
0:16:08 > 0:16:15He was smiling because earlier in the day, those fishermen had pinned a terribly rude sign on my back.
0:16:15 > 0:16:18Tony, hello. Morning.
0:16:18 > 0:16:22You've got all this fish, but I want to make a bouillabaisse.
0:16:22 > 0:16:26I don't want to use the expensive fish, like soles.
0:16:26 > 0:16:31What's the sort of fish I can use that's not too expensive,
0:16:31 > 0:16:35to make this fish stew? You've got this white fish.
0:16:35 > 0:16:38Usually the best type of fish.
0:16:38 > 0:16:43There's haddock, saithe, whiting... Saithe, I like the sound of.
0:16:43 > 0:16:47What's that, a sort of coley? A coley fish, yes,
0:16:47 > 0:16:52We'll stick in...what's this bag called? A fish-frail.
0:16:52 > 0:16:56This is the... Whiting. We'll have a couple of those.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58This is incredibly fresh fish.
0:16:58 > 0:17:02Ah-ha! Actually...
0:17:02 > 0:17:05What else have you got that I...? Dory, John Dory.
0:17:05 > 0:17:10This is a St Pierre. This is quite fascinating, because...
0:17:11 > 0:17:17It's got the forefinger and thumb mark of... St Peter. St Peter, yeah.
0:17:17 > 0:17:22When he was crossing the Red Sea, he left his mark on it.
0:17:22 > 0:17:24It's a very delicate fish too.
0:17:24 > 0:17:28Can I have a couple of those? Yes, have two.
0:17:28 > 0:17:32Ah, gurnards. Red gurnards.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36What are these used for generally? Mostly crab or lobster bait.
0:17:36 > 0:17:41For bait? That seems a shame. Lovely flesh. Lovely eating fish.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44They're brilliant for the bouillabaisse - for the soup.
0:17:44 > 0:17:46I'm having a few more.
0:17:46 > 0:17:52Because they give the colour to the sauce... And the flavour.
0:17:52 > 0:17:56They're gonna use them as bait if we don't buy them. That's mad!
0:17:56 > 0:18:00In fact, I think it's crazy. That makes super soup.
0:18:00 > 0:18:05There's one thing I really want and that's a weaver fish.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08We've got a weaver down there. That's a nice fish.
0:18:08 > 0:18:11Shall I get it for you? Yes, please.
0:18:13 > 0:18:17That's a curious little fish. That's a weaver.
0:18:17 > 0:18:23Don't prickle yourself. Why? It's got a dangerous spine there.
0:18:23 > 0:18:27Which are dangerous? Any of those on top.
0:18:27 > 0:18:30We'll stick him in the soup later on and avoid the pricks.
0:18:30 > 0:18:34Cos there's one or two around.
0:18:42 > 0:18:49Right, here we are away from the hurly-burly of Newlyn fish market.
0:18:49 > 0:18:53We're back in the relative comfort of my own kitchen,
0:18:53 > 0:18:56with the fresh fish we got this morning.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59Today we're making a bouillabaisse.
0:18:59 > 0:19:03It's one of those esoteric fish stews that travel writers
0:19:03 > 0:19:06and food writers eulogise about,
0:19:06 > 0:19:10that the French travel 60 miles to get and the English say
0:19:10 > 0:19:12it's the best they've ever seen.
0:19:12 > 0:19:17I'm going to lay all those ghosts to rest, the complications,
0:19:17 > 0:19:22and the expense by using this five quid's worth of fish we picked up.
0:19:22 > 0:19:28Whiting, gurnard, John Dory, saithe - unusual fish.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32Our star, for those who think it can only be made in the Med,
0:19:32 > 0:19:35we're gonna use the weaver fish.
0:19:35 > 0:19:40Essential in cookbooks, but this is an eating lesson.
0:19:40 > 0:19:43So...there it is. Our other ingredients.
0:19:43 > 0:19:47You've got to follow me round. It's a kitchen. Working, you know.
0:19:47 > 0:19:51Apart from the fish, what we need are some onions.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55We need to have some saffron. Powdered saffron.
0:19:55 > 0:20:00Don't use turmeric. If you can't afford the saffron, don't bother.
0:20:00 > 0:20:04Best quality olive oil you can afford. Only olive oil.
0:20:04 > 0:20:08That is essential. Then we need some freshly milled pepper.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12We need sea salt, it's much better than the iodised stuff.
0:20:12 > 0:20:16We need parsley, which I've already chopped.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19We need tomatoes and garlic.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22This dish doesn't require any wine in it,
0:20:22 > 0:20:25but it does require wine in the cook.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29My lucky frog and I are going to have a quick one. Cheers!
0:20:29 > 0:20:32And off we go!
0:20:32 > 0:20:38Right, I'll keep that handy for me there as it's very, very hot.
0:20:38 > 0:20:41First, I've chopped up some of my fish.
0:20:41 > 0:20:47I've taken the scales off, they've been gutted. All the nasty things have been thrown away.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51But they are still on the bone - that makes them taste nicer.
0:20:51 > 0:20:56We need a few more fish, so I'll prepare a couple more.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59Chucking heads away as we go - another gurnard.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01I think we'll have another whiting, here...
0:21:01 > 0:21:02I think we'll have another whiting, here...
0:21:02 > 0:21:05Which we'll trim and tuck into there.
0:21:05 > 0:21:08Then we've got to prepare our chopped onion,
0:21:08 > 0:21:12which will be done a little bit like this.
0:21:14 > 0:21:20We want some roughly chopped up tomato - you can be as rough and ready with this as you like -
0:21:20 > 0:21:24because we're not going to eat any of these parts of the soup.
0:21:24 > 0:21:28These are the flavourings. It'll all be explained.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31Garlic, doesn't matter if we've got the skin on.
0:21:31 > 0:21:36This is a sunshine dish, this comes from the Mediterranean.
0:21:36 > 0:21:40The yellow garlic, red tomatoes, golden white onions. Smashing.
0:21:40 > 0:21:45You can be fairly tough - almost sort of macho about this.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49Think of French Impressionist painters in the South of France.
0:21:49 > 0:21:55Those are the colours we want to get and with them goes flavour.
0:21:55 > 0:22:00The flavour of fish, and food and life.
0:22:00 > 0:22:06Now, I'm going to transfer all this lot into my copper saucepan here.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09Into the olive oil...
0:22:10 > 0:22:15..go the onions and the tomatoes and the garlic.
0:22:15 > 0:22:18And also our saffron.
0:22:18 > 0:22:21Every little drop of that.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25I'm gonna rinse it out because it's so expensive -
0:22:25 > 0:22:29it's more expensive than certain unspecified substances.
0:22:29 > 0:22:34It's all worth it for food, it's a drug in its own right.
0:22:34 > 0:22:39Those are going to sweat down, and I'm gonna add a bit of salt.
0:22:39 > 0:22:42The odd grind of the pepper mill.
0:22:42 > 0:22:45One thing I don't like are those enormous pepper mills.
0:22:45 > 0:22:52I think they're silly. A good sized one is very practical - nothing worse than running out of pepper.
0:22:52 > 0:22:56That can simmer away for a bit, we'll put the fish in in a second.
0:22:56 > 0:23:03I want to emphasise that no matter what romantic tales the food writers tell you,
0:23:03 > 0:23:07this is not a gastronomic dish. This is a peasant dish.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10It doesn't have lobsters and crayfish in it.
0:23:10 > 0:23:15It's also a dish that food writers and pundits love to argue about.
0:23:15 > 0:23:20My argument is going to be that this is going to taste delicious.
0:23:20 > 0:23:24No letters, no complaints about forgetting to put mussels in
0:23:24 > 0:23:31because, smartpants, mussels only go into Parisian bouillabaisse and you can't make bouillabaisse there.
0:23:31 > 0:23:36Anyone who says you can't make it in this city either is wrong, too.
0:23:36 > 0:23:38I know what I'm doing.
0:23:38 > 0:23:44The cooking process here is very rapid, probably about 15 minutes.
0:23:44 > 0:23:50To speed that up, I have got hot water - no wine, just hot water.
0:23:50 > 0:23:55If you put cold water in, you'd slow down the cooking process
0:23:55 > 0:23:58and ruin the effect we've achieved.
0:23:58 > 0:24:04This hot water goes in, and look how it seethes up and bubbles away.
0:24:04 > 0:24:11In this, I'm going to add a drop more olive oil, because the essence of this is the poached fish.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13It's going to taste so good.
0:24:13 > 0:24:17It's full of sunshine, yellow, full of colour, love and romance.
0:24:17 > 0:24:22The oil is going to make the sauce congeal to make a soup.
0:24:22 > 0:24:30Back to the bottle, because we don't do things by magic. That has to cook and I have to have a drink,
0:24:30 > 0:24:33it's very hot, see you in a minute, OK.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08Welcome back.
0:25:08 > 0:25:13We've let that cook for a while and the taste is very good.
0:25:13 > 0:25:17Don't believe me that it was good without testing for seasoning.
0:25:17 > 0:25:21Adding a little more salt, it needs a little more pepper.
0:25:21 > 0:25:29You can't make this dish with a few frozen haddock fillets and a tin of lobster bisque.
0:25:29 > 0:25:32I think my producer would do things like that.
0:25:32 > 0:25:39He's a bit of a peasant, actually, despite his immense power.
0:25:39 > 0:25:43He doesn't know too much about eating and drinking.
0:25:43 > 0:25:45We lift these fishes out carefully.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48And they've still got the bones in.
0:25:48 > 0:25:55I leave them in as they help to give a gelatinous texture to the sauce.
0:25:55 > 0:25:59It's better that they're filleted after they're cooked.
0:25:59 > 0:26:03Very important indeed. You can't be limp-wristed in the kitchen.
0:26:03 > 0:26:07All those of you who think I'm a bit strange in a way,
0:26:07 > 0:26:13can see the mighty power in my arms as I lift this 18 kilo, very expensive copper saucepan.
0:26:13 > 0:26:18We're gonna throw that away, or you could eat it in an omelette.
0:26:18 > 0:26:21That would be a nice thing to do with that.
0:26:21 > 0:26:25While you've been away and this has been cooking,
0:26:25 > 0:26:30my staff have laid the table for me, laid the chopping board.
0:26:30 > 0:26:35If you bear with me for a moment, I'm going to have a bit to eat.
0:26:35 > 0:26:38What shall I have?
0:26:38 > 0:26:42Don't spoil it by chucking it all over some plate.
0:26:42 > 0:26:48Use a white plate for this, please. Sorry to the manufacturers of coloured plates.
0:26:48 > 0:26:52Food is the star and the plates are the extras.
0:26:52 > 0:26:57If you pardon the mixed metaphor, they should be seen and not heard.
0:26:57 > 0:27:00Little sauce over here.
0:27:02 > 0:27:09Some heretics say you should also have some toast, covered with garlic, maybe.
0:27:09 > 0:27:14Or some hot chilli paste to go with this, but I don't believe that.
0:27:14 > 0:27:18I think that the freshness of the fish and the...
0:27:19 > 0:27:22..subtle, fresh flavour...
0:27:22 > 0:27:23Hm-hm...
0:27:23 > 0:27:28I don't want to talk any more, I just want to have my bouillabaisse.
0:27:28 > 0:27:31The best bouillabaisse England has ever seen.
0:27:31 > 0:27:34I'm going to enjoy myself, see you later.
0:27:55 > 0:28:00Subtitles Red Bee Media Ltd.