Perigord

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0:00:17 > 0:00:20What do they see in that kind of activity?

0:00:20 > 0:00:25We have the beauty of the Dordogne, a freshly-chilled bottle of wine,

0:00:25 > 0:00:29waters full of fish which we'll catch and cook -

0:00:29 > 0:00:34and they hurtle up and down like motor mechanics!

0:00:34 > 0:00:37They're probably going home for hamburger and chips.

0:00:37 > 0:00:40I'm happy with my quiet, contemplative sort of life.

0:01:26 > 0:01:29None of my business how the French run their rivers,

0:01:29 > 0:01:32but they should confine this motorboat stuff to St Tropez

0:01:32 > 0:01:35and let us more gentlefolk get on with doing what's important in life,

0:01:35 > 0:01:39which is cooking and paddling by the river.

0:01:39 > 0:01:43I'm going to cook for you... Trawlers, planes, anything you like,

0:01:43 > 0:01:45flat-bottom punts - we can do it.

0:01:45 > 0:01:48I'm going to cook a salad typical to this region.

0:01:48 > 0:01:51Come in close, Clive, to see what we've got here.

0:01:51 > 0:01:53It uses some pre-prepared goose giblets.

0:01:53 > 0:01:56You can buy them in a tin from delicatessens in England,

0:01:56 > 0:02:00and you can buy them anywhere around here.

0:02:00 > 0:02:03You have to follow me around on this rocky flat-bottomed punt.

0:02:03 > 0:02:09Into the hot walnut oil you put a few of these giblets.

0:02:09 > 0:02:10OK.

0:02:10 > 0:02:13Then - stay with me, Clive - you add a few croutons,

0:02:13 > 0:02:17already slightly fried. Warm them through.

0:02:17 > 0:02:20Add a few fresh walnuts. Particularly nice here -

0:02:20 > 0:02:22this is a walnut-producing region.

0:02:22 > 0:02:26And they're fresh, not like three-months-after-Christmas taste,

0:02:26 > 0:02:28that many of ours are like.

0:02:28 > 0:02:31Stir that around. Close-up on the salad here, please.

0:02:31 > 0:02:33It's spitting and burning me.

0:02:33 > 0:02:35We won't worry too much about that.

0:02:35 > 0:02:39At the final moment we put in a little wine vinegar...

0:02:41 > 0:02:42..into that. Let it bubble.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48You can smell the vinegar mixing with the walnut oil.

0:02:48 > 0:02:50Tip it over the top, like that.

0:02:52 > 0:02:53Grab a fork...

0:02:53 > 0:02:55Stir it round a little bit.

0:02:55 > 0:02:59And have a little mouthful. It's quite delicious and very simple.

0:03:01 > 0:03:04ENGINE RUMBLES Here comes another one.

0:03:04 > 0:03:06I thought we'd got away from them.

0:03:06 > 0:03:08Look. A menace, they are.

0:03:09 > 0:03:13# Up the lazy river in an open boat

0:03:13 > 0:03:17# Everything is perfect for ze lunch afloat

0:03:17 > 0:03:22# Then these things from hell Come and break the spell

0:03:22 > 0:03:26# Crazy lazy river Mon Dieu. #

0:03:30 > 0:03:33The River Dordogne gives the Perigord fertile land

0:03:33 > 0:03:36and a pleasant leafy atmosphere so beloved of the British.

0:03:36 > 0:03:39They've been here for centuries because this was the frontline

0:03:39 > 0:03:42of the Hundred Years War. But they were so busy building castles,

0:03:42 > 0:03:45they didn't have time to learn to cook.

0:03:45 > 0:03:48Of many specialities, foie gras is probably the most famous,

0:03:48 > 0:03:49but also the most controversial.

0:03:49 > 0:03:53I mean, the stories the farmers tell about geese happily queuing up

0:03:53 > 0:03:57to be force-fed seem to gloss over the quite barbaric process.

0:03:57 > 0:03:59Still, I'm not here to moralise.

0:04:00 > 0:04:04Bergerac is a bustling, prosperous, seemingly typically French

0:04:04 > 0:04:07market town at first sight, but then you discover

0:04:07 > 0:04:09they're fiercely proud of its English heritage.

0:04:09 > 0:04:13It's Saturday morning, their most important market of the week.

0:04:13 > 0:04:15Too busy to stop, even for death.

0:04:15 > 0:04:17CHURCH BELL CHIMES

0:04:19 > 0:04:22When you arrive in a strange country, like the Perigord -

0:04:22 > 0:04:25I've never been here before - the first thing you do

0:04:25 > 0:04:28is go into a good bar, find somebody who's chatting really well,

0:04:28 > 0:04:31ask him to tell you who runs the best restaurant in the region.

0:04:31 > 0:04:34Then go to the best restaurant and make friends with the proprietor,

0:04:34 > 0:04:37which is what I've done. A chap called Bernard.

0:04:37 > 0:04:40Then you get him to take you around the market,

0:04:40 > 0:04:43where all life is at. This is the essence of the whole place.

0:04:43 > 0:04:46We'll go wandering - when he's stopped chatting up the women,

0:04:46 > 0:04:49cos he's one of those sort of fellows -

0:04:49 > 0:04:52we'll do some shopping and explore this wonderful area.

0:04:56 > 0:04:57You might think

0:04:57 > 0:05:00that once you've seen one French market, you've seen them all,

0:05:00 > 0:05:02but you couldn't be more wrong.

0:05:02 > 0:05:05'It's BY the marketplace, by the little old ladies

0:05:05 > 0:05:08'and men who come to sell the produce from their farms -

0:05:08 > 0:05:11'it's THERE where you find out the real specialities.'

0:05:11 > 0:05:13It's there where people haggle and talk,

0:05:13 > 0:05:15worry about their change, smell the fruit,

0:05:15 > 0:05:18meet each other, discuss what they'll have for lunch.

0:05:18 > 0:05:22'It's also where you pick up tips, like what to do with ducks' feet.

0:05:22 > 0:05:24'We'd throw them away, but not in the Perigord.

0:05:24 > 0:05:27'They save them to use to enrich soups,

0:05:27 > 0:05:29'and afterwards grill them with melted garlic butter.'

0:05:29 > 0:05:32Something the Chinese are fond of, duck feet.

0:05:34 > 0:05:37And, for the most exquisitely prepared parking meter,

0:05:37 > 0:05:39this gets the Floyd Award.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41Quel style!

0:05:42 > 0:05:44HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:05:44 > 0:05:46Ah, this is pure pig fat. OK.

0:05:46 > 0:05:49Just pig fat.

0:05:49 > 0:05:52THEY CONVERSE IN FRENCH

0:06:04 > 0:06:07Here's another remarkable thing, very peculiar to this region,

0:06:07 > 0:06:09this is a chicken blood pancake.

0:06:09 > 0:06:13When they kill the chickens, they let the blood run onto a plate

0:06:13 > 0:06:15until it coagulates.

0:06:15 > 0:06:19Then they chop bits of garlic into it, put it in a frying pan

0:06:19 > 0:06:23and make an omelette or pancake out of it, and it's now cooked and cold.

0:06:23 > 0:06:25You might ask what you do with it.

0:06:25 > 0:06:29Well, to enrich an otherwise boring dish of just fried potatoes,

0:06:29 > 0:06:32you chop this into little pieces, add parsley,

0:06:32 > 0:06:37toss the pieces of this with some pork fat,

0:06:37 > 0:06:39into your potatoes,

0:06:39 > 0:06:42and you have a fabulous meal which hasn't cost much money.

0:06:42 > 0:06:44Again, a poor country that uses everything.

0:06:48 > 0:06:51'The marketplace isn't just for buying lunch,

0:06:51 > 0:06:54'it's for a quick check on what's been happening last week,

0:06:54 > 0:06:56'for checking out little deals that can be done,

0:06:56 > 0:06:59'for seeing and, of course, being seen.'

0:06:59 > 0:07:00We have the Chief of Police with us.

0:07:00 > 0:07:02He's in disguise so I think we'll be quite safe.

0:07:02 > 0:07:05He's the guy with the sunglasses on his head.

0:07:05 > 0:07:07Bernard is a kind of a godfather in this town.

0:07:07 > 0:07:11He knows everybody, and you couldn't have a better guide.

0:07:11 > 0:07:12Where are they now?

0:07:15 > 0:07:20People are always asking me how we choose our locations.

0:07:20 > 0:07:25Usually, it's because the director likes the architecture.

0:07:25 > 0:07:30He chose this village because HIS hero, film director Claude Chabrol,

0:07:30 > 0:07:34shot his macabre masterpiece "Le Boucher" here.

0:07:34 > 0:07:39Also, he liked this sign. Kindred spirits, I can tell you!

0:07:41 > 0:07:44Let's do some cooking now.

0:07:44 > 0:07:50Cooking needs a kitchen, and the tourist office found us this.

0:07:50 > 0:07:53I want to show you a typical Perigord meal,

0:07:53 > 0:07:57the sort an ordinary family has on feast days and so on.

0:07:57 > 0:08:01By tripping around the place we ran into Madame Moulin

0:08:01 > 0:08:04and her husband Monsieur Moulin.

0:08:04 > 0:08:09They open their house to visitors to sample the local country food.

0:08:09 > 0:08:17She's a bit of a tartar and doesn't like film crews interrupting her work which she takes seriously.

0:08:17 > 0:08:21So I'm sitting having a slight glass of wine.

0:08:21 > 0:08:26When she's in a better mood we'll see exactly what she's doing.

0:08:26 > 0:08:33Husbands, please note the happy, acquiescent mood of Monsieur Moulin,

0:08:33 > 0:08:37pretending to help make the soup.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39She made us this amazing soup -

0:08:39 > 0:08:44just bacon, cabbage, water, onions, thickened with egg yolk.

0:08:44 > 0:08:49Looks appalling! But poured over stale bread, it tastes delicious.

0:08:49 > 0:08:55# It does not take an age to make this "grand potage"

0:08:55 > 0:09:02# With onions, oeufs et pain, et beaucoup de cabbage, la la la... #

0:09:02 > 0:09:07Mrs Beaton calls this "soup for the poor and needy".

0:09:07 > 0:09:09However, it is very good.

0:09:09 > 0:09:14Much less good was this dreadful dish of stewed gizzards.

0:09:14 > 0:09:17It was FOUL - pardon the pun!

0:09:17 > 0:09:22Particularly good was this confit de canard -

0:09:22 > 0:09:24duck preserved in its own fat,

0:09:24 > 0:09:29reheated in the oven until it's golden and crispy.

0:09:29 > 0:09:36We're making a simple Perigord omelette of ceps - wild mushrooms.

0:09:36 > 0:09:39Clive, have a close look at these ceps

0:09:39 > 0:09:43which have been preserved in their own juices.

0:09:43 > 0:09:48Ca chauffe, ca chauffe! Sorry about that. Look...

0:09:48 > 0:09:51Right, we'll start again, OK?

0:09:51 > 0:09:53I've had a row with the crew,

0:09:53 > 0:09:58I'm speaking in two languages for five people who understand NOTHING,

0:09:58 > 0:10:01and the fat's getting too hot.

0:10:01 > 0:10:03Clive, stay with me nicely.

0:10:03 > 0:10:09These are ceps, preserved over the winter in their own juices.

0:10:09 > 0:10:14We've just warmed them through in the oven with some goose fat.

0:10:14 > 0:10:19We've chopped into that some fresh garlic, some fresh parsley,

0:10:19 > 0:10:21and, using the typical local fat,

0:10:21 > 0:10:26with the old dragon peering over my shoulder - goose fat.

0:10:26 > 0:10:28Ca va comme ca? Ca va, ca va.

0:10:28 > 0:10:34Alors, il faut battre. If you didn't know how to make an omelette...!

0:10:34 > 0:10:39"Il faut battre" means you must beat the eggs. We all know that!

0:10:39 > 0:10:42Ils sont sales et poivres? Oui.

0:10:42 > 0:10:47Alors, vous versez un peu, et avec la spatule, vous... Oui.

0:10:47 > 0:10:50Clive, this is very important.

0:10:50 > 0:10:55This is how to make an omelette! Pas tout d'un seul coup. Voila!

0:10:55 > 0:11:01Allez-y par la. Here we go, making a fine, fluffy omelette.

0:11:01 > 0:11:03Free-range eggs, by the way.

0:11:03 > 0:11:08Pour the liquid over the edge. Voila, voila! Ca va? Ca va, ca va.

0:11:08 > 0:11:14Alors, il faudra peut-etre... quelques cepes.

0:11:14 > 0:11:18That means some ceps. Pas tous, hein?

0:11:18 > 0:11:21I'm not allowed to put them all in

0:11:21 > 0:11:25because she wants to keep the rest for her own lunch!

0:11:25 > 0:11:28And... Un peu plus? Un peu plus.

0:11:28 > 0:11:33Et apres vous prenez une assiette pour la retourner. D'accord.

0:11:33 > 0:11:37We must leave the omelette a tiny bit runny in the middle,

0:11:37 > 0:11:40otherwise it won't be good enough.

0:11:40 > 0:11:45We then fold it... Oh, je n'aurais pas fait comme ca, moi!

0:11:45 > 0:11:47Oh, ca va. Ce n'est pas mal.

0:11:47 > 0:11:53I'd like HER to cook roast beef and Yorkshire pudding with my mother

0:11:53 > 0:11:55standing over her shoulder!

0:11:55 > 0:12:00Ca peut aller? La presentation est bonne. The presentation is good.

0:12:00 > 0:12:02Mais ca manque quoi, alors?

0:12:02 > 0:12:06Moi, j'aurais fait un peu differemment, mais...

0:12:06 > 0:12:10Mais, montre-mois! Allez-y!

0:12:10 > 0:12:15If you're so good at it, lady, YOU cook it(!) OK? Bon!

0:12:15 > 0:12:19We'll now see a REAL omelette aux cepes,

0:12:19 > 0:12:24faite par la maitresse de cette superbe maison, Madame Moulin!

0:12:24 > 0:12:26Ladies and gentlemen...

0:12:26 > 0:12:30omelette aux cepes, cooked by Madame Moulin!

0:12:45 > 0:12:51The essential difference is that she cooked HERS on both sides.

0:12:51 > 0:12:56But that is a peasant way of cooking an omelette. It's tougher,

0:12:56 > 0:12:59and can be carried into the fields.

0:12:59 > 0:13:02Mine was more for a dinner party,

0:13:02 > 0:13:08with a softer interior. Good ingredients, two different ways.

0:13:58 > 0:14:02Sorry about this, but this is the bit where Clive tries to win prizes for evocative photography,

0:14:02 > 0:14:06and the director does the travelogue-y bit.

0:14:06 > 0:14:12People in the Dordogne reckon this was the birthplace of man.

0:14:12 > 0:14:17Just down the road are caves with prehistoric drawings.

0:14:17 > 0:14:20Happily, they were shut when we were filming.

0:14:20 > 0:14:24Seriously, this river IS important.

0:14:24 > 0:14:27This old boy, Monsieur le Pelican,

0:14:27 > 0:14:32claims he's been fishing on it since the time of Jesus Christ!

0:14:32 > 0:14:36For him, the Dordogne is the river of life.

0:14:36 > 0:14:40He fishes not for fun, but for his very livelihood.

0:14:46 > 0:14:50HE SPEAKS IN FRENCH

0:15:12 > 0:15:15Right on, Monsieur le Pelican.

0:15:15 > 0:15:17Brilliant philosophy. Brilliant bloke for that matter.

0:15:17 > 0:15:22Trouble is, after 8.30am he has to share his beloved river.

0:15:22 > 0:15:26He lives off this river, he's been doing it for years.

0:15:26 > 0:15:32His parents have fished since the birth of Jesus, he said earlier!

0:15:32 > 0:15:35Like all fisherman, he's a good fibber.

0:15:35 > 0:15:38THEY SPEAK IN FRENCH

0:15:45 > 0:15:48They call that the partridge of the river.

0:15:48 > 0:15:50HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:15:50 > 0:15:54The partridge of the river - he does go on a bit, this chap!

0:15:54 > 0:15:57They catch the lot here - tench,

0:15:57 > 0:16:01roach, bream, pike, perch, dace, chub, wop-bop-a-loo-bam!

0:16:01 > 0:16:04Sorry - got carried away!

0:16:04 > 0:16:10It would give any self-respecting secretary of a British angling club

0:16:10 > 0:16:12apoplexy to see that lot netted.

0:16:12 > 0:16:15This is strange! 30 years ago,

0:16:15 > 0:16:20I caught my first-ever perch. And I forgot my sandwiches.

0:16:20 > 0:16:22I was forced to cook my perch myself.

0:16:22 > 0:16:28I cooked it over a wood fire, and got hooked on cooking and eating!

0:16:28 > 0:16:32'Now here I am, having a wonderful time,

0:16:32 > 0:16:35'grown-up, rich and terribly famous!'

0:16:35 > 0:16:39J'espere que vous aimerez la petite perche

0:16:39 > 0:16:44que j'ai cuite pour vous. Goutez-la. Avec plaisir.

0:16:44 > 0:16:48You won't get fish any fresher than that.

0:16:48 > 0:16:54These guys know a thing or two about it, so we shall see!

0:16:54 > 0:16:56I expect 10 out of 10 for this.

0:16:56 > 0:17:01Ca peut aller? Excellent, excellent!

0:17:01 > 0:17:04Bien cuit! Ca va? Tres bon!

0:17:04 > 0:17:07Et Monsieur le Pelican? Je vais voir.

0:17:07 > 0:17:11Pour moi, un poisson est sacre. Il faut aller doucement.

0:17:11 > 0:17:17It's a sacred thing for him. You don't just rush into it.

0:17:17 > 0:17:20C'est la meilleure que j'ai mangee.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34# If you want fish sur la table

0:17:34 > 0:17:39# Roach if you are able Check that you have cast your net

0:17:39 > 0:17:44# Then you pull them out ze river See what they deliver

0:17:44 > 0:17:49# Chub or pike or bream Pas mal, ce stream! #

0:17:49 > 0:17:54These are freshwater fish, very popular here.

0:17:54 > 0:17:59They've been cleaned by squeezing out the insides.

0:17:59 > 0:18:04Soak them in milk for a few moments like that.

0:18:04 > 0:18:09That enables the flour that I'll dredge them in to stick to them.

0:18:09 > 0:18:13A quick test for the hot fat -

0:18:13 > 0:18:15bung a little piece of bread in,

0:18:15 > 0:18:20and if it turns golden immediately the fat is ready for frying.

0:18:20 > 0:18:24That's ready, so all I need to do is to shake off...

0:18:24 > 0:18:28I won't cook them all. I haven't enough fat.

0:18:28 > 0:18:32Shake off the excess milk, dredge them in flour,

0:18:32 > 0:18:35then shake off the flour, like that.

0:18:35 > 0:18:40I'll do that by putting them into here. Shake off all the flour.

0:18:40 > 0:18:43Salt and pepper them, quickly.

0:18:46 > 0:18:49Shake it around again and drop it in.

0:18:49 > 0:18:53While those are frying... Clive, back to me!

0:18:53 > 0:18:57A favourite way of serving them is with a persillade -

0:18:57 > 0:19:01a piece of garlic, finely chopped, and some parsley.

0:19:01 > 0:19:08Chop it as fine as you can, using a knife with a rounded edge.

0:19:09 > 0:19:14There we are! I like showing off, but do be careful of your fingers.

0:19:14 > 0:19:19I should think they're ready. I'll test one to see.

0:19:19 > 0:19:21Absolutely fabulous!

0:19:23 > 0:19:24Um...ah...!

0:19:24 > 0:19:28Only one person can tell me if it's any good - Monsieur le Pelican.

0:19:28 > 0:19:31Pas assez cuits. Pas assez cuits?

0:19:31 > 0:19:36We'll keep them in a bit longer. They're not golden-brown enough.

0:19:36 > 0:19:42Monsieur le Pelican also adds a good dollop of duck oil, or goose fat,

0:19:42 > 0:19:48to enrich it even more. And he says always to use fresh oil.

0:19:48 > 0:19:51Ca va? Oui. Bon!

0:19:51 > 0:19:56I'll put them on there, like that. Voila - parfait! He says "perfect".

0:19:56 > 0:20:02Put the persillade over them. Voila! OK? Un peu de sel.

0:20:02 > 0:20:05Vous aimez beaucoup le poivre? Oui!

0:20:05 > 0:20:09Lots of pepper. Pas trop, quand meme! Ca va comme ca? Voila!

0:20:09 > 0:20:12Goutez-le!

0:20:20 > 0:20:22OK?

0:20:22 > 0:20:26C'est l'or de la Dordogne. The gold of the Dordogne.

0:20:26 > 0:20:31That is the best of the catch. It's what everyone around here loves.

0:20:51 > 0:20:54Ah, good, here's another one of me and Bernard -

0:20:54 > 0:20:57this time getting in with the in-crowd.

0:20:57 > 0:21:02These chaps in gold robes are celebrating Bergerac Wine Festival.

0:21:02 > 0:21:05It's the place to appreciate wine.

0:21:05 > 0:21:11Tractor driver or vineyard owner, your opinion is respected.

0:21:11 > 0:21:13Wine is a serious business,

0:21:13 > 0:21:19but knows no social boundaries. And Bernard's been fixing again.

0:21:19 > 0:21:25I'm to get one of the medals these guys are wearing!

0:21:25 > 0:21:29These honours aren't bestowed on any-old-body.

0:21:29 > 0:21:34So I went on a crash course of Bordeaux and Bergerac wines.

0:21:34 > 0:21:37Are you sitting comfortably?

0:21:37 > 0:21:42Turn a few pages from Hugh Johnson's "Pocket Guide"...

0:21:42 > 0:21:46..here we are - "Bergerac. Dordogne.

0:21:46 > 0:21:54"R or W, SW or DR, two stars, '82, '83, '84 - W, '85.

0:21:54 > 0:21:56"Lightweight Bordeaux-style wine.

0:21:56 > 0:22:00"Drink young, the white very young." Got all that?

0:22:00 > 0:22:04C'est grand, et c'est riche. Oui.

0:22:04 > 0:22:07Ce sont des vins qui vont tenir un nombre d'annees. Oui.

0:22:10 > 0:22:15All this tasting... You don't get any. It's a bit grim.

0:22:15 > 0:22:20I was invited here to be enthroned by knights in robes, in chapels.

0:22:20 > 0:22:26I've got to pass an exam first! I'll have a quick snifter here.

0:22:26 > 0:22:28It's local, a very good wine!

0:22:28 > 0:22:33They asked all these questions, and I don't know the answers.

0:22:33 > 0:22:40I'm going back to fill in Part 2 in my own time and my own writing.

0:22:40 > 0:22:48# Chevaliers de Bergerac

0:22:48 > 0:22:55# With your robes upon your back

0:22:59 > 0:23:06# Hat, do not fit

0:23:06 > 0:23:12# Make me feel a proper twit!

0:23:12 > 0:23:16# Chevaliers... #

0:23:16 > 0:23:20RECITING RITUAL

0:23:25 > 0:23:30'These guys really know how to lay on a ceremony!

0:23:30 > 0:23:36'I'm trembling in honour, more so than when I got commissioned,

0:23:36 > 0:23:38'or selected for the Second XV.'

0:23:38 > 0:23:44Look at that! The final result of hours of intense study(!)

0:23:44 > 0:23:47There's my name!

0:23:47 > 0:23:52It proves that I slipped a couple down while I was over there.

0:23:52 > 0:23:54'More people ought to get medals.

0:23:54 > 0:23:59'Mend the gas meter - get a medal. Drive a bus - get a medal.

0:23:59 > 0:24:02'I'm not too sure about THAT bit!'

0:24:02 > 0:24:07We've had fun showing you Perigord and its simple peasant dishes.

0:24:07 > 0:24:12I thought we ought to have a really good sequence

0:24:12 > 0:24:18where an exotic dish like chicken stewed with freshwater crayfish

0:24:18 > 0:24:21is prepared by a master.

0:24:21 > 0:24:26David, you're the director. How do I do the commentary?

0:24:26 > 0:24:29Say what he's doing. He's chopping onions.

0:24:29 > 0:24:31This is a difficult bit

0:24:31 > 0:24:36because you could cut the atmosphere with a knife.

0:24:36 > 0:24:38The director didn't like the cook,

0:24:38 > 0:24:43the cook resented the film crew interrupting his work.

0:24:43 > 0:24:48He first of all takes the shells off some preboiled crayfishes.

0:24:48 > 0:24:51He was miserable. Very unhappy!

0:24:52 > 0:24:56He's saved the tails for later on.

0:24:56 > 0:25:01What do I do now? Talk about him moving the chicken breasts

0:25:01 > 0:25:03into that little bowl.

0:25:03 > 0:25:08The pictures are self-explanatory. What did he put in there?

0:25:08 > 0:25:13He's put shallots into the pan in which he fried the chicken.

0:25:13 > 0:25:16Now he's got to add some tomato,

0:25:16 > 0:25:21finely chopped, and the ecrevisse shells, already crushed.

0:25:21 > 0:25:23We can see the tomato there.

0:25:24 > 0:25:29Then the shells go in. Then he's got to add a bit of saffron -

0:25:29 > 0:25:31very expensive, saffron!

0:25:31 > 0:25:34He'll do that in a minute...

0:25:36 > 0:25:40You can see he's miserable, can't you? Yes.

0:25:40 > 0:25:44That's the saffron going in.

0:25:44 > 0:25:49Why did he get so upset? We were quite polite. Very!

0:25:49 > 0:25:51Chicken back in now,

0:25:51 > 0:25:55so it gets the flavour of saffron and crayfish,

0:25:55 > 0:25:58and the bits of onion and tomato.

0:25:58 > 0:26:01This is an important bit here.

0:26:01 > 0:26:06This is the fumee de volaille, a very reduced chicken stock.

0:26:06 > 0:26:12Don't use gravy ganules... Ganules?! Sorry - GRANULES!

0:26:12 > 0:26:15It's bubbling up quite nicely again.

0:26:15 > 0:26:18It now simmers for ten minutes or so.

0:26:18 > 0:26:24Into the oven for the chicken to absorb the flavours.

0:26:24 > 0:26:30# Here we sit for a bit. Magnifique! C'est si bon!

0:26:30 > 0:26:34# Hey, how long is this song? Well, they reckon 60 seconds.

0:26:34 > 0:26:40# Killing time with this rhyme Now it's back where we belong. #

0:26:40 > 0:26:45The chicken has been stewed in the stock and the shellfish.

0:26:47 > 0:26:49He's got to reduce that sauce,

0:26:49 > 0:26:52strain it to get rid of the shells,

0:26:52 > 0:26:57thicken it with butter... I'm sure he's deliberately going slow!

0:26:59 > 0:27:03The lighting man nearly bopped him. I know! THEY LAUGH

0:27:05 > 0:27:10He's strained the sauce and will now thicken it with butter.

0:27:10 > 0:27:15You should whisk it in, but this guy is so laid-back,

0:27:15 > 0:27:18he just sort of shakes it on the stove.

0:27:18 > 0:27:22First, he's decorating the dish with the crayfish.

0:27:26 > 0:27:29Bit of butter going in, there.

0:27:31 > 0:27:36Bit of sweat going in, there. He looks SO unhappy!

0:27:36 > 0:27:41Funny, but he's a brilliant cook! That's the whole point.

0:27:41 > 0:27:46I'm glad this sequence is coming to an end. It goes on a bit!

0:27:46 > 0:27:49Difficult to write a commentary!

0:27:49 > 0:27:52Well, you haven't, have you?! No!

0:27:52 > 0:27:56Anyway, this bit coming up is the hotel owner,

0:27:56 > 0:28:00being quite philosophical about Perigord.

0:28:00 > 0:28:04Le Perigord, c'est le berceau de l'humanite. C'est incroyable!

0:28:04 > 0:28:08Ici, le premier homme est ne.

0:28:09 > 0:28:14Moi, quelquefois je vais voir ailleurs ce qui c'est passe.

0:28:14 > 0:28:19Je suis condamne a revenir en Perigord. J'ai tout en Perigord -

0:28:19 > 0:28:26la douceur de vivre, le climat, la qualite des produits; je suis heureux!

0:28:26 > 0:28:31He's a happy man. He says, "Why do I love Perigord?

0:28:31 > 0:28:37"It's the birthplace of humanity, it's the birthplace of western art.

0:28:37 > 0:28:42"I'm condemned to stay in this wonderful place," he says,

0:28:42 > 0:28:45"the birthplace of humanity!"

0:29:00 > 0:29:03Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd