0:00:03 > 0:00:05# Gloria, gloria
0:00:06 > 0:00:09# Gloria, gloria
0:00:09 > 0:00:14# In excelsis... #
0:00:14 > 0:00:21'Dear God, I know you're up there. I want to thank you for the best BBC mini-break ever.
0:00:21 > 0:00:26'And I promise to be really kind to Clive from now on.'
0:01:23 > 0:01:25We're very frugal on this programme.
0:01:25 > 0:01:27Rather like a good French cook, we don't waste anything.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30Many producers shoot so much film it just rots,
0:01:30 > 0:01:33and it's only fit to use as manure in the BBC garden.
0:01:33 > 0:01:36We, on the other hand, recycle it direct on to the screen,
0:01:36 > 0:01:38so that's why you see this plate of cakes again
0:01:38 > 0:01:40and also in a moment, the shot of the choucroute
0:01:40 > 0:01:42I know you enjoyed a few weeks previously.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45It doesn't matter because we are going to give you a wonderful musical break,
0:01:45 > 0:01:50a brilliant piece of music written especially for me by my mates the Stranglers.
0:01:50 > 0:01:52Take it away, boys.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56KEYBOARD AND DRUMS PLAY
0:02:12 > 0:02:15If you were lucky enough to live on this fat, slow river
0:02:15 > 0:02:18here in the Pays Basque, you could while away the evenings
0:02:18 > 0:02:22in the late dusk gliding along in a little row boat
0:02:22 > 0:02:24fishing for elvers and communing with nature.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27Or on second thoughts, you could pop into Pablo's
0:02:27 > 0:02:32and pay about £6 a shot for a dish of hot ones boiled in oil and chillies.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48And after a busy evening, it's on to bed - I mean, it's on to Burgundy,
0:02:48 > 0:02:52home of some of the world's finest wines, Nuits-St-Georges, Chambertin et al,
0:02:52 > 0:02:56and of course, the birthplace of my famous board game, Vinopoly.
0:02:56 > 0:02:58You remember. You throw a six and get a glass.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01And here on the corner of this wonderful little village,
0:03:01 > 0:03:05Morey St-Denis, another superb wine producing area,
0:03:05 > 0:03:07we have a little sequence from Last of the Summer Wine,
0:03:07 > 0:03:11in which Nora Batty entreats Compo and Clegg to stop drinking and come home.
0:03:11 > 0:03:13Ah, fermez la bouche!
0:03:20 > 0:03:24And then there's Brittany, a place where they've really got their act together.
0:03:24 > 0:03:27I hope you're enjoying this little culinary cameo of France.
0:03:27 > 0:03:32There'll be a cooking sketch coming up in a minute, but look at this brilliant soupe de poissons
0:03:32 > 0:03:35and this delight of delights, a superb fruits de mer.
0:03:40 > 0:03:47Now Clive's last desperate attempt to gain the recognition he so richly deserves for his supreme photography.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54I love the Dordogne, and the gentle art of aqua picnicking,
0:03:54 > 0:03:58so cruelly wrecked by pastis-crazed aquanauts - get it? -
0:03:58 > 0:04:02who did everything they could to trawl up my bottle of inspiration.
0:04:02 > 0:04:08The perch were good too, stuffed with fresh herbs and grilled on a wood fire - what a breakfast that was!
0:04:08 > 0:04:12But one of the best moments was these geese, trooping the colour.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17Just after Christmas,
0:04:17 > 0:04:21the ritual of preserving geese takes place for the classic confit d'oie.
0:04:21 > 0:04:24Teams of chefs with razor-sharp knives dissect the carcases -
0:04:24 > 0:04:26the wings, the breasts, the legs.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30Every piece is used and cooked gently in its own fat, allowed to cool
0:04:30 > 0:04:34and covered with goose grease to be eaten and enjoyed throughout the year.
0:04:34 > 0:04:35Nothing is wasted.
0:04:37 > 0:04:41With surgeon-like precision, every morsel is stripped from the bones,
0:04:41 > 0:04:45which in turn are used to make stock for soups and sauces.
0:04:45 > 0:04:48But the vital bit is the liver, where the money
0:04:48 > 0:04:51and one of the great delicacies of France for the gourmet lie.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54But also the subject of bitter controversy amongst those
0:04:54 > 0:04:58who say the feeding process is barbaric and cruel.
0:04:59 > 0:05:01The whole joints of confit are best
0:05:01 > 0:05:04but the little pieces are fine in soups and vegetable dishes.
0:05:04 > 0:05:07The fat, too, is used for cooking almost everything
0:05:07 > 0:05:09but it's the liver pate that reigns supreme.
0:05:09 > 0:05:11If you don't worry where it comes from, of course.
0:05:19 > 0:05:22I love England, I love France,
0:05:22 > 0:05:27but my heart is really nailed to the pavement outside a Provence bar.
0:05:27 > 0:05:31Provence with her azure skies and heady aroma of herbs.
0:05:31 > 0:05:36With her pagan hedonism which first inspired me to cook.
0:05:45 > 0:05:51Cooking is the essence of Provence. A chicken roasted with garlic.
0:05:51 > 0:05:53A bass flamed over fennel,
0:05:53 > 0:05:56flavours that excite your tummy and thrill your heart,
0:05:56 > 0:06:01especially with lifelong friends and chilled rose.
0:06:01 > 0:06:07Enough of me, let me introduce you to the dish you've known for all these years.
0:06:07 > 0:06:12We needed to find some simple and old-fashioned Provencal food
0:06:12 > 0:06:16and that's hard to find with all the fast food around.
0:06:16 > 0:06:22We asked around and someone said we needed to see Andre.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26He's passionate about the Provencal fashion of life and food.
0:06:26 > 0:06:31So we rolled up and said, "Any chance of filming what you cook?"
0:06:31 > 0:06:36He said, "I'm busy but come back in a few days and I'll do something."
0:06:36 > 0:06:41We came back and it's amazing. It's an incredible display of food.
0:06:41 > 0:06:46The mayor's here, the town band is here, journalists are here,
0:06:46 > 0:06:49all because they love food.
0:06:49 > 0:06:54I don't speak Provencal and I know these dishes are hard to explain.
0:06:54 > 0:06:58Il faut que je demande ce qu'il y a ici. Ca, c'est quoi?
0:06:58 > 0:07:04Alors, c'est plusieurs de mollettes avec la tapenade,
0:07:04 > 0:07:06la brandade...
0:07:06 > 0:07:11Alors, tapenade, brandade, persil et la tomate.
0:07:11 > 0:07:14That's a five-layered omelette.
0:07:14 > 0:07:21Each omelette's flavoured with salt cod, olives, tomatoes or parsley, which are important to the region.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24As you saw, layered as a cake.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27Here we have tapenade. That I DO know.
0:07:27 > 0:07:30That is a mash of olives, anchovies and olive oil.
0:07:30 > 0:07:35You eat that with bits of celery or you put it on bits of bread.
0:07:35 > 0:07:40And to your left a bit, camera, we have the salt cod.
0:07:40 > 0:07:45Salt cod which has been soaked and boiled until it's cooked,
0:07:45 > 0:07:49taken off the bone, whisked up with olive oil to become this mixture.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52Something they eat in Provence.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55They eat this for Christmas Eve supper.
0:07:55 > 0:07:59For religious reasons and because it's not fattening.
0:07:59 > 0:08:04- Here, amazing, you'll be pleased to see, is caiettes.- Caiettes, oui.
0:08:04 > 0:08:10- Ca c'est fait comment?- La caiette est a base de foie de porc,
0:08:10 > 0:08:14de la poitrine, de la gorge et puis la salade de frise,
0:08:14 > 0:08:20avec la crepinette et la sauge et l'huile d'olive.
0:08:20 > 0:08:23Those are the Provencal faggots.
0:08:23 > 0:08:28The intestines of the pig, the liver, the heart, wrapped in the caul,
0:08:28 > 0:08:32and baked in the oven with olive oil and sage.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36But this I've never seen.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- C'est quoi?- C'est la jambonnette.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42THEY CONVERSE IN FRENCH
0:08:48 > 0:08:51Yes, this is a boned out leg of pork,
0:08:51 > 0:08:54the meat's been taken out of it,
0:08:54 > 0:08:59minced, stuffed back in and cooked and that's fabulous.
0:08:59 > 0:09:02I'm tempted to have a taste of that.
0:09:02 > 0:09:07And it's like a remarkable sausage but made from the whole leg.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10Mmm. C'est tres bon. Excellent.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13Now here's the thing to confuse me.
0:09:13 > 0:09:19Sunday Times readers will think this is a ratatouille. But it's not.
0:09:19 > 0:09:21Ca c'est quoi exactement?
0:09:21 > 0:09:28C'est les aubergines frites et dedans c'est une bohemienne.
0:09:28 > 0:09:30C'est different de la ratatouille.
0:09:30 > 0:09:34It's a bohemienne and it's different from a ratatouille
0:09:34 > 0:09:39because it's cooked for longer and it's seized up and more caramelised.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41It's fabulous.
0:09:41 > 0:09:46Now all you need is something else for which France is famous,
0:09:46 > 0:09:50the wine of popes - Chateauneuf du Pape.
0:09:50 > 0:09:54We should have a drink of this, which I shall pour.
0:09:55 > 0:09:59- Absolutely amazing stuff. Merci beaucoup.- Alors.
0:09:59 > 0:10:04You can't come to Provence without taking a slurp of the local wine.
0:10:04 > 0:10:09Ventoux, Rhone, Vacqueyras. It's great, it's fruity and strong.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13Unlike Burgundy, it's cheap. Let's try some.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17I'm surrounded by amazing people.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21The most experts on wine you'll ever get around one barrel.
0:10:21 > 0:10:26The important thing is not for me to tell you what I think about wine,
0:10:26 > 0:10:30ask those who know - like Monsieur Escoffier.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33He's responsible for the Cotes du Ventoux.
0:10:33 > 0:10:36We'll all taste a little drop.
0:10:36 > 0:10:40He'll tell us what is special about Ventoux.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44THEY SPEAK IN FRENCH
0:10:46 > 0:10:50..It's very fruity wine...
0:10:55 > 0:10:59Tres bien. It's a light, fresh, fruity wine,
0:10:59 > 0:11:04should be drunk any time you want, and drink it within a year or two.
0:11:04 > 0:11:07It's a very good little wine.
0:11:12 > 0:11:19You won't find people giggling and wandering legless hysterically around at this kind of tasting.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22This is very serious indeed.
0:11:22 > 0:11:27The only people grinning will be the film crew when we all get a glass!
0:11:27 > 0:11:30They swill it around their mouths.
0:11:30 > 0:11:35They won't spit it on the floor, it's too precious to throw away.
0:11:35 > 0:11:39Now we move on to the... on to the Gigondas.
0:11:39 > 0:11:45This is a more important wine... THEY SPEAK IN FRENCH
0:12:05 > 0:12:10Here's another one, straight from the horse's mouth.
0:12:10 > 0:12:15Monsieur Amadeus is known in the UK, every restaurateur knows him.
0:12:15 > 0:12:19When he says his 1985 Gigondas will be superb in ten years' time,
0:12:19 > 0:12:23it's worth buying it now while it's still inexpensive,
0:12:23 > 0:12:27and having a really good party in when? 1895.
0:12:27 > 0:12:29- Bon.- FILM CREW MEMBER: 1895?!
0:12:29 > 0:12:31LAUGHTER
0:12:31 > 0:12:36We started off seriously in this wine-tasting
0:12:36 > 0:12:39and each one of these - see this lovely mousse -
0:12:39 > 0:12:44this barrel is over 100 years old. There are over 4,000 bottles in that.
0:12:44 > 0:12:49That's enough to keep me going, with the help of my director, two weeks.
0:12:49 > 0:12:54What I'm saying is, in 1995, the Gigondas of Monsieur Amadeus
0:12:54 > 0:12:57will be absolutely superb.
0:12:57 > 0:12:58Superb!
0:12:58 > 0:13:03It's not that we've been drinking a lot this morning,
0:13:03 > 0:13:08but we've been here three weeks and it's built up a bit!
0:13:11 > 0:13:16This river, the river Dordogne, has, like a soup kettle, been simmering since the dawn of man.
0:13:16 > 0:13:20With the rich melange of language, culture and food.
0:13:20 > 0:13:24From the Neolithic caves to the kitchen of fine restaurants,
0:13:24 > 0:13:30France's reputation of culinary excellence has been lovingly tended.
0:13:30 > 0:13:34The Dordogne - birthplace of man and culture. What a great commentary!
0:13:34 > 0:13:36OK, Stuart?
0:13:36 > 0:13:41We'll edit out the fluffs and mistakes later on but apart from that, it was brilliant.
0:13:41 > 0:13:43Thank you. Isn't that good?
0:13:43 > 0:13:45They really work me to death on these programmes.
0:13:45 > 0:13:47They are so conscious of the licence fee payers' money,
0:13:47 > 0:13:50that they get me to do little extra things.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53While you're in the dubbing studio,
0:13:53 > 0:13:56just do something that makes you feel at home as if you were in France.
0:13:56 > 0:13:58A simple snack in a dubbing theatre is not easy to do.
0:13:58 > 0:14:00You could do it at home quite easily.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03All I've done is diced a few bits of smoked bacon,
0:14:03 > 0:14:06fried them in olive oil for few moments
0:14:06 > 0:14:10and then I add some blanched, fresh broad beans from my mother's garden.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13Come in, Clive, very close, just so they can see what it is.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16The little golden crispy bits of bacon, the lovely bacon fat
0:14:16 > 0:14:19and the broad beans, they are absolutely superb.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22That's what France and French cooking is all about - simplicity.
0:14:22 > 0:14:28Like a little olive or a glass of rose. Note the cut crystal.
0:14:28 > 0:14:31Anyway, I must get on with my commentary, because it's very important.
0:14:31 > 0:14:35It's like decorating a flat, like putting the furniture in place. OK, Stuart, are you ready?
0:14:35 > 0:14:39Yes, stand by Keith and don't rustle your script.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42Script? I don't need a script. Look at these pictures here now.
0:14:42 > 0:14:44There you have a farmyard, the essence of French provincial life.
0:14:44 > 0:14:48They retired. They were in BAC, space missiles and stuff.
0:14:48 > 0:14:52They bought this beautiful little farm, chickens clucking around...
0:14:52 > 0:14:53VOICES FADES OUT
0:14:53 > 0:14:56It's so relaxed and pleasant around here.
0:14:56 > 0:15:01To come into a hot kitchen and cook is an imposition on my time.
0:15:01 > 0:15:03It IS supposed to be a mini-break!
0:15:03 > 0:15:08Because I have to involve you, I'll cook you a three-course meal,
0:15:08 > 0:15:12using Perigord ingredients - from the humblest to the most expensive.
0:15:12 > 0:15:17Clive, with no further ado, as we say, let's see what we have going.
0:15:17 > 0:15:22I'm making a soup out of haricot blanc. We have fresh ones from here.
0:15:22 > 0:15:27If you use dried ones, soak them in water overnight for 12 hours.
0:15:27 > 0:15:31Also we're using the potato, tomato, some rosemary,
0:15:31 > 0:15:36some speck - that's fat bacon, you can get it in delicatessens.
0:15:36 > 0:15:40Lots of carrots, some garlic, some parsley,
0:15:40 > 0:15:44some thyme and a bay leaf and lots of water.
0:15:44 > 0:15:49That's all we need for that, except - and come up to me, Clive - this.
0:15:49 > 0:15:54This is an hachis. And no meal in the Perigord is complete without it.
0:15:54 > 0:15:58It's finely chopped parsley, garlic and the fat bacon.
0:15:58 > 0:16:03And that will go into the soup to enrich it and flavour it.
0:16:03 > 0:16:07It's similar to pistou in Provence, where they have a similar thing
0:16:07 > 0:16:11made from basil, garlic and olive oil to thicken their soups.
0:16:11 > 0:16:15Over here to our dessert.
0:16:15 > 0:16:19The Perigord is famous for its walnuts, hence walnut oil.
0:16:19 > 0:16:24It's famous for wine vinegar, lettuce and goat's cheese.
0:16:24 > 0:16:31We'll toast these goats' cheeses until they're golden brown and serve them with a walnut oil and salad.
0:16:31 > 0:16:36But - now the extravagant bit, the bit that makes the BBC cringe!
0:16:36 > 0:16:40I'll cook sweetbreads - that's the pancreas of veal,
0:16:40 > 0:16:44with truffles and foie gras and it's delicious.
0:16:44 > 0:16:49Clive, back down to the business. Are you starting on the sweetbreads?
0:16:49 > 0:16:52I've poached those in hot water with salt,
0:16:52 > 0:16:57I've had them pressed under weights until they're flat like that,
0:16:57 > 0:17:01and I've taken away all the nasty membrane.
0:17:01 > 0:17:03Then, this cost nearly £4.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06Those pieces of truffle.
0:17:06 > 0:17:11This cost £10. It's fresh goose liver and it's brilliant.
0:17:11 > 0:17:16Our other ingredients over here - some butter and chicken stock.
0:17:16 > 0:17:20That's enough chat. Clive, over to the stove.
0:17:22 > 0:17:26Our very first thing is into this pan of butter...
0:17:26 > 0:17:31which we've got slightly melted here, is to put our sweetbreads.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35We'll saute those gently for a few moments.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38I'll turn them over so they're well coated.
0:17:38 > 0:17:43While they're gathering frying speed, here's the soup we're talking about.
0:17:43 > 0:17:48All those ingredients have simmered away in water and salt for 1.5 hours.
0:17:48 > 0:17:51I'll stir it around so you can see.
0:17:51 > 0:17:55You see the pieces of potato, beans, the tomato.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58That's wonderful. Now I'll put in the soup thickener.
0:17:58 > 0:18:04And that simmers now for another 30 minutes before it's ready to eat.
0:18:04 > 0:18:08And you get all the flavours out of the garlic, the parsley,
0:18:08 > 0:18:11and those lovely pieces of fat bacon.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13Here we're back into business.
0:18:13 > 0:18:17These are simmering away nicely. I'll turn the gas up.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21We've borrowed a kitchen, I've not been here before,
0:18:21 > 0:18:26so I'll fiddle with what's right and wrong. I'll turn these over.
0:18:27 > 0:18:29OK.
0:18:29 > 0:18:34They saute away gently cos they're slightly golden brown on a low gas.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38Keep on those, Clive, because while that's happening,
0:18:38 > 0:18:43so this meal can end up at the right time, I'll grill my goats' cheeses.
0:18:43 > 0:18:48I've remembered to light the oven, this one has a grill under here.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51They go in and cook away happily.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55Right, now these are the expensive pieces of truffle.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58We'll put them in
0:18:58 > 0:19:02to flavour the butter in which the sweetbreads are cooking.
0:19:02 > 0:19:07OK, now cooking live, although it's on film, this is in real-time,
0:19:07 > 0:19:10I sometimes need some help.
0:19:10 > 0:19:15So if someone could push a bit closer to me my foie gras - thanks.
0:19:15 > 0:19:19Right, are you still with me? This is the foie gras.
0:19:19 > 0:19:23We'll put it there for the time being.
0:19:23 > 0:19:26We'll turn these over again.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29Now, you see, they're virtually cooked.
0:19:29 > 0:19:33Absolutely beautiful. Take out the truffles.
0:19:33 > 0:19:36And put those on the top of that.
0:19:36 > 0:19:39'Sorry this sequence is going on a bit
0:19:39 > 0:19:46'but it's essential to choose a few renowned wines, taking care not to pay for them yourself.
0:19:46 > 0:19:51'Once you've done that, finish the sauce. Toss in a glass of white wine,
0:19:51 > 0:19:55'add the chicken stock into the pan, bubble for two minutes,
0:19:55 > 0:20:00whisk in a knob of butter and strain the sauce over the sweetbreads.
0:20:00 > 0:20:05And although I say it myself, and I often do say such things,
0:20:05 > 0:20:10I'm not one for false modesty, but that's a dish you'd pay £30 for
0:20:10 > 0:20:13in any British restaurant.
0:20:18 > 0:20:21For you cheapskates too mean to buy the book, this is the replay -
0:20:21 > 0:20:24I've done it about eight times for the director -
0:20:24 > 0:20:28of the walnut oil salad with crispy lettuce and frisee or endive.
0:20:28 > 0:20:31That is how glistening it is.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34It has been turned in this lovely walnut oil.
0:20:34 > 0:20:35Walnuts on the top there.
0:20:35 > 0:20:37Stay there, Clive.
0:20:37 > 0:20:40For the third time - you don't see any of these at home,
0:20:40 > 0:20:44how many times I have to do this for his benefit, behind the camera,
0:20:44 > 0:20:47for the third time, out with the toasted goats' cheeses.
0:20:47 > 0:20:50You can buy these in supermarkets around the country
0:20:50 > 0:20:55or if you are one of these people who have holidays in France, bring them back with you.
0:20:59 > 0:21:04- Get those bits off.- Thank you.- I hope that's going to be OK for you.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07Looking absolutely marvellous!
0:21:07 > 0:21:09Thank you. Thank you.
0:21:09 > 0:21:14- And me!- Bon appetit, again!- Yes!
0:21:14 > 0:21:18- That's better, isn't it?- Shall we? - Yes, why not.
0:21:18 > 0:21:23Don't you regret giving up this phenomenally amazing life you had,
0:21:23 > 0:21:30jet-setting round the world, managing director, chauffeur-driven cars, gold Express cards...
0:21:30 > 0:21:32No, don't exaggerate.
0:21:32 > 0:21:37These things don't exist unless you have a very top job.
0:21:37 > 0:21:41I had a responsible job, it was very interesting,
0:21:41 > 0:21:46but whenever you earn money, you must do something for it.
0:21:46 > 0:21:49And it can be too much stress.
0:21:49 > 0:21:54This modern life is so demanding on people.
0:21:54 > 0:21:58I mean here we have... I have my bee hives and my honey.
0:21:58 > 0:22:01We've got vines, we make our own wine.
0:22:01 > 0:22:05Dorothy cooks lovely dishes. We receive people.
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- We make jam, we conserve fruits... - We pick mushrooms.
0:22:09 > 0:22:12Yes, it's such a varied life.
0:22:12 > 0:22:18One thing I'd like to know cos it's my programme. How's the food?
0:22:18 > 0:22:21- It's very good. - It's pretty marvellous.
0:22:21 > 0:22:26- We've eaten in all sorts of places but I think this dish is...- Yeah.
0:22:26 > 0:22:31What I don't understand is how can you cook dishes
0:22:31 > 0:22:36from different parts of the world and do it so good?
0:22:36 > 0:22:39I mean this is top.
0:22:39 > 0:22:41If you're a very good Perigord cook,
0:22:41 > 0:22:46how do you get on with cooking in other parts of the world?
0:22:46 > 0:22:51I love cooking. It's like painting, music, motorcar driving, racing.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54You just get totally immersed in it.
0:22:54 > 0:22:57That's what I live for, cooking.
0:23:07 > 0:23:13It's so sad we're coming to the end of our gastronomic mini-break. I've enjoyed it so much.
0:23:13 > 0:23:18I was lucky to meet a great artist, a brilliant Breton chef, in Morlaix.
0:23:18 > 0:23:22He gets his inspiration from the sea.
0:23:22 > 0:23:26He even cooks on stones that come from the beach.
0:23:26 > 0:23:29Although he's a creative cook,
0:23:29 > 0:23:34he doesn't torture the pan or our credibility to titillate our palates.
0:23:44 > 0:23:48I don't have the ability of a UN translator
0:23:48 > 0:23:53but I'll do my best to explain what's going on. Bear with me.
0:23:53 > 0:23:56HE SPEAKS IN FRENCH
0:23:56 > 0:24:00"It's simple, we have some raw salmon dipped in oil.
0:24:00 > 0:24:03"And I put it onto a stone from the beach
0:24:03 > 0:24:08"which I cut in those places where they make headstones for funerals.
0:24:08 > 0:24:14"It's been in the oven for a long time, I whack the fish onto it.
0:24:14 > 0:24:19"We can enjoy putting other things on there, like scallops."
0:24:19 > 0:24:21Alors.
0:24:21 > 0:24:24"Pop it onto a little pancake.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27"A bit of algae, a bit of sea salt,
0:24:27 > 0:24:30"a bit of pepper."
0:24:30 > 0:24:33'That was a funny bit.
0:24:33 > 0:24:36'I asked him a leading question which he refused.
0:24:36 > 0:24:41'He said, "I'm not answering that for the camera. Get on with things."
0:24:41 > 0:24:46'Look, I'm going to drop the translation for a moment
0:24:46 > 0:24:51'because he's talking rapidly about his roots, why he's at Morlaix.
0:24:51 > 0:24:54'He loves the sea, the wind, the shore.
0:24:54 > 0:24:59'His dish of just scallops, albeit wrapped in filo pastry,
0:24:59 > 0:25:03'for him reflect the textures of his native region.
0:25:03 > 0:25:08'Those little bits on the side are leeks, leeks his gran grew.
0:25:08 > 0:25:11'The apprentices that work for him
0:25:11 > 0:25:16'would jump through hoops to take advantage of his innovative cuisine.
0:25:16 > 0:25:19'Back to the translation now.'
0:25:19 > 0:25:24"But despite this fine food I cook, my roots are simple bits of potato
0:25:24 > 0:25:27"fried with bacon fat.
0:25:27 > 0:25:31"When I go home I love to smell the seaweed,
0:25:31 > 0:25:36"I love to watch the flowers, I love to understand that my countryside
0:25:36 > 0:25:41"gives me this ability which I must exploit to cook fine things."
0:25:43 > 0:25:48'Doesn't matter to him whether it's simple or complicated.
0:25:48 > 0:25:54'He just wants to please, to demonstrate where his gut really is.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57'His passion is not false.
0:25:57 > 0:26:02'The salt is HIS sea salt, the crayfish is from HIS sea.
0:26:02 > 0:26:05'These leeks come from HIS land.
0:26:05 > 0:26:09'He says, "This leek I respect. It was loved by the man who grew it.
0:26:09 > 0:26:13'"I must respect him and it. It is my duty."
0:26:19 > 0:26:23'"It's my land, that's why I'm here.
0:26:26 > 0:26:32'"I watch the flowers, the violets, I watch everything. I love it all.
0:26:32 > 0:26:34'"It is my duty."'
0:26:35 > 0:26:38- OK?- Yep.- Right.
0:26:38 > 0:26:42Thank goodness. That's the end of seven weeks' hard work.
0:26:42 > 0:26:46It looked brilliant to you hacking around France
0:26:46 > 0:26:51but it has been the best BBC mini-break I've ever had.
0:26:51 > 0:26:54But seriously, in those seven weeks,
0:26:54 > 0:26:58we've been to the high places, the low places.
0:26:58 > 0:27:03We have seen that despite the advance of pizza bars and hamburgers,
0:27:03 > 0:27:08French provincial, French country cooking, is alive and well.
0:27:08 > 0:27:13The simple fact of picking a radish from the ground with unsalted butter
0:27:13 > 0:27:18or a simple meal of liver, people still take delight in those meals.
0:27:18 > 0:27:21It's a really good thing.
0:27:21 > 0:27:24I hope these programmes have shown you
0:27:24 > 0:27:28that simplicity, shopping, good ingredients is where it's all at.
0:27:28 > 0:27:33That's where MY cooking is at and that's why we made these programmes.
0:27:33 > 0:27:36Stay with the simple. Bon appetit.