0:00:02 > 0:00:05There's nothing I'm more passionate about than what,
0:00:05 > 0:00:07how and why we eat and drink.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11In this series, we'll be looking at the trends in modern food
0:00:11 > 0:00:14and drink that influence the way we all shop and cook today.
0:00:16 > 0:00:19Something I'm obsessed with, just as you are,
0:00:19 > 0:00:24is a phenomenon that has literally taken over the world - baking.
0:00:24 > 0:00:26We've gone cupcake crazy, bread makers
0:00:26 > 0:00:29and mixers are flying out of the shops.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33It's cheaper than going to a theme park, isn't it?
0:00:33 > 0:00:37'I'll be picking the brains of the grande dame of baking, Mary Berry.'
0:00:37 > 0:00:39That's perfect, isn't it?
0:00:39 > 0:00:42'And passing on some of my own trade secrets.'
0:00:42 > 0:00:45I dust a little bit of icing sugar on top.
0:00:45 > 0:00:48That is a very good tip, and I'm going to copy that one.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53Our award-winning drinks expert Kate Goodman will be keeping us
0:00:53 > 0:00:56up to date with what's hot in the drinks world.
0:00:56 > 0:01:01The trend is towards drinking more sparkling wine than Champagne.
0:01:01 > 0:01:04And author and cook Rachel Khoo tells us
0:01:04 > 0:01:06why Paris is patisserie perfection.
0:01:06 > 0:01:11It's got this crispy sound... a perfect croissant.
0:01:13 > 0:01:14Food And Drink is back!
0:01:19 > 0:01:21'To me, afternoon tea
0:01:21 > 0:01:24'brings together all the skills needed in baking.'
0:01:24 > 0:01:27It's the epitome of the craft, and big business.
0:01:27 > 0:01:30From five-star hotels to quaint tea shops, you can be charged
0:01:30 > 0:01:35a small fortune for this little bit of luxury all over the world.
0:01:35 > 0:01:39We're spending millions on baking equipment, and being able to
0:01:39 > 0:01:43make a light Victoria sponge is the mark of being a man these days.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46A bit of cake and a cuppa is the new rock and roll,
0:01:46 > 0:01:48but it's by no means a new idea.
0:01:50 > 0:01:54Do you know how it happened, the first afternoon tea?
0:01:54 > 0:01:58Queen Victoria's lady-in-waiting thought it was an awful long time
0:01:58 > 0:02:02to go from luncheon to dinner, so she made a meal
0:02:02 > 0:02:06in the middle of the afternoon that was all sweet things plus a few
0:02:06 > 0:02:10sandwiches. What a good idea, and I'm awfully grateful, aren't you?
0:02:10 > 0:02:12I like that way of thinking.
0:02:12 > 0:02:14Afternoon tea is just so civilised.
0:02:14 > 0:02:19My version of the perfect afternoon tea would have to include
0:02:19 > 0:02:21two of my favourite sweet treats.
0:02:21 > 0:02:26- That's French madeleines and sweet custard fruit tartlets.- Mary.
0:02:26 > 0:02:30I have not made madeleines for years, in fact I don't think I could
0:02:30 > 0:02:33find the madeleine tin, I think it's right at the back of the cupboard.
0:02:33 > 0:02:37I'm going to get the tray, a good old-fashioned tray.
0:02:37 > 0:02:42Doesn't look too old-fashioned to me, it looks absolutely brand-new.
0:02:42 > 0:02:45Mine is that shape, I think there's a bit of rust round the side.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49This is a very sort of modern non-stick one.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52But I still think you need to butter it and flour it.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55- That'll be my job. - Yes, please, Mary.
0:02:55 > 0:02:57Right, I'll go ahead and do that.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01Madeleines are the closest the French get to a British sponge,
0:03:01 > 0:03:04and they're perfect for afternoon tea, as they're bite-size.
0:03:04 > 0:03:08For the madeleine recipe, it really is very, very easy.
0:03:08 > 0:03:11It's equal quantities of flour, sugar and butter.
0:03:12 > 0:03:14That's perfect, isn't it?
0:03:14 > 0:03:18As a young teenager, I went off to Paris to work in a pastry shop,
0:03:18 > 0:03:20and that's where I learnt how to make madeleines,
0:03:20 > 0:03:24but this recipe is from my uncle, who's a master patissier,
0:03:24 > 0:03:28and he flavours them with a little bit of lemon.
0:03:29 > 0:03:31Whisk these ingredients together with two eggs,
0:03:31 > 0:03:34and gently add the plain flour and baking powder.
0:03:34 > 0:03:38Melting the butter means you won't beat out the air when mixing.
0:03:38 > 0:03:42You must let it cool first, though, or you'll scramble those eggs.
0:03:42 > 0:03:46And there we go. Look at that. Beautiful, that's perfect.
0:03:46 > 0:03:48That looks like a thick batter to me.
0:03:48 > 0:03:51Now, to put it in there. Now, spoon?
0:03:51 > 0:03:53Oh, OK.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57You're going to do it, so I'm wanting a tip from the expert.
0:03:59 > 0:04:01So you're putting a dessert spoon in each one.
0:04:01 > 0:04:03You've just got to get it right
0:04:03 > 0:04:06so that it doesn't spread over the side.
0:04:06 > 0:04:08That's it.
0:04:08 > 0:04:11This is the traditional shape, it's the scallop shape.
0:04:11 > 0:04:13I mean, do you know why?
0:04:13 > 0:04:15I don't, no.
0:04:15 > 0:04:19I mean, you've got to have this imprint underneath, like a shell.
0:04:19 > 0:04:25It's from Brittany, and Brittany is famous for its scallops,
0:04:25 > 0:04:27- hence the scallop shape.- Ah!
0:04:29 > 0:04:32They should be lovely and golden brown around the edges
0:04:32 > 0:04:35and they should have that little nipple that rises in the middle,
0:04:35 > 0:04:38and they should be so soft and moist inside,
0:04:38 > 0:04:41and they're best if you eat them within an hour of cooking.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44While the madeleines are baking, I'm going to make
0:04:44 > 0:04:47a sweet shortcrust pastry for my custard tarts
0:04:47 > 0:04:49by simply mixing together 500 grams
0:04:49 > 0:04:54of flour, 250 grams of butter, 100 grams of sugar and an egg.
0:04:54 > 0:04:56Pastry is so easy,
0:04:56 > 0:05:00so easy to make and everybody should be making it.
0:05:00 > 0:05:03Well, it's so much cheaper to make yourself.
0:05:03 > 0:05:08It's half fat to flour with a little bit of sugar and one egg yolk.
0:05:08 > 0:05:12Mary, I think those madeleines are cooked.
0:05:12 > 0:05:16Oh, gosh, yes. They're well risen, they're a perfect golden brown.
0:05:16 > 0:05:18Look at that.
0:05:20 > 0:05:23Why has everybody gone mad about baking?
0:05:23 > 0:05:24Well, I think it's a recession,
0:05:24 > 0:05:29and I think everybody is thinking of things to do at home that
0:05:29 > 0:05:33everybody enjoys - it's cheaper than going to a theme park, isn't it?
0:05:33 > 0:05:36And at least you get to eat something really nice
0:05:36 > 0:05:39at the end of it. When the pastry is half a centimetre thick,
0:05:39 > 0:05:41you're ready to line your tart tins.
0:05:41 > 0:05:43These, in French, are called barquettes
0:05:43 > 0:05:46because they're in the shape of a little boat, and I think they're
0:05:46 > 0:05:50so dainty, so pretty and beautiful, rather than having a round one.
0:05:50 > 0:05:53It's sort of a couple of mouthfuls and I think they look lovely.
0:05:53 > 0:05:54Posh!
0:06:00 > 0:06:02OK. There we go.
0:06:02 > 0:06:05What I do with these, cos I've got quite long nails, I have to...
0:06:05 > 0:06:11You press in a piece of pastry, it goes in beautifully.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15That's it, now we need to line them with foil, I'll go and get some.
0:06:15 > 0:06:19'When it comes to the fine details of baking, good old-fashioned tips
0:06:19 > 0:06:23'can make a big difference, and Mary's got barquettes of them!'
0:06:23 > 0:06:25That's clever, I like it.
0:06:25 > 0:06:28So I'm going to fill mine with beans, but you can use pasta
0:06:28 > 0:06:33or dried beans or rice, and you can use it over and over again.
0:06:33 > 0:06:38When my ma was 105, we thought that the whole family would take her
0:06:38 > 0:06:41out for tea, so we went to somewhere very, very posh,
0:06:41 > 0:06:44but the one mistake they made was they put the price at the bottom,
0:06:44 > 0:06:48and Mum looked at it and she said, "Is that for all of us?"
0:06:48 > 0:06:51and I said, "No, Mum, but that's what things cost,"
0:06:51 > 0:06:53and she - "tut-tut-tut-tut!" but enjoyed the tea.
0:06:53 > 0:06:57Blind baking dries the pastry out
0:06:57 > 0:07:00and makes sure the tart cases stay crisp and keep their shape.
0:07:02 > 0:07:04Kate's first drinks suggestion is obvious,
0:07:04 > 0:07:06but can be fraught with difficulty.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10Well, traditionally with afternoon tea, you would drink tea.
0:07:10 > 0:07:14Tea is the most popular hot drink in the world,
0:07:14 > 0:07:17and I'm always really nervous about making people cups of tea.
0:07:17 > 0:07:18Absolutely.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22People have specific requirements for how their tea is made, so...
0:07:22 > 0:07:23I like mine in a mug.
0:07:23 > 0:07:24You like yours in a mug, gosh!
0:07:24 > 0:07:28I beg your pardon! We're having this wonderful afternoon tea.
0:07:28 > 0:07:30I am shocked by that, you know, Michel.
0:07:30 > 0:07:33I am really, I'm not having you for tea and giving you a mug,
0:07:33 > 0:07:35you're having a china, a china cup and saucer.
0:07:35 > 0:07:37Proper china cup.
0:07:37 > 0:07:39I'm sorry, I'm sorry, I just like tea in a mug.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42So as well as tea, we're also drinking a lot more Champagne
0:07:42 > 0:07:45with afternoon tea, which I think is lovely.
0:07:45 > 0:07:48And you might be surprised to hear the trend is towards drinking
0:07:48 > 0:07:50more sparkling wine than Champagne.
0:07:50 > 0:07:54Maybe a Prosecco or a Cava, there's lots of options with sparkling wine.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59I'm making a classic creme patissiere to fill my tarts.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02'Six egg yolks, 125 grams of sugar
0:08:02 > 0:08:06'and 40 grams of flour will make enough to fill 12 tart cases.'
0:08:07 > 0:08:10'I've done it a thousand times before,
0:08:10 > 0:08:13'but never under the forensic gaze of Mary Berry!'
0:08:13 > 0:08:17Now, I don't sift flour anymore, do you sift flour?
0:08:19 > 0:08:21I sift the flour if I'm doing a fatless sponge,
0:08:21 > 0:08:23but here you're giving it a jolly good beat.
0:08:23 > 0:08:26It's when you're folding it in that I can't get it in.
0:08:26 > 0:08:30That's lovely and smooth, no lumps, and I haven't put any vanilla in it.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33Now, I would have put vanilla pod in there,
0:08:33 > 0:08:37or I would use vanilla extract in this.
0:08:37 > 0:08:38Isn't the classic one with vanilla?
0:08:38 > 0:08:41I mean, if you looked it up in a dictionary, creme patissiere,
0:08:41 > 0:08:45wouldn't that have vanilla extract or vanilla pod?
0:08:45 > 0:08:46No. Most definitely not!
0:08:46 > 0:08:50You're French, so you'll know - no, no, no, no, I'm just interested!
0:08:50 > 0:08:53For this particular cake, I'm going to be putting some fruit on there
0:08:53 > 0:08:57and I think the fruit has got enough flavour to carry it through.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01So the boiling hot milk onto the yolks, sugar and the flour.
0:09:04 > 0:09:06And that just gets all incorporated,
0:09:06 > 0:09:10and then I'm going to pour that back into the pan
0:09:10 > 0:09:12and bring it to the boil.
0:09:15 > 0:09:18Once it's boiled, you put it away and let it cool down,
0:09:18 > 0:09:20and now I dust a little bit of icing sugar on top
0:09:20 > 0:09:23and that stops a crust forming.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27That is a very good tip, and I'm going to copy that one, thank you.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32When the sweet creme patissiere has cooled, fill the cases
0:09:32 > 0:09:34and decorate with your favourite fresh fruit.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39Have you ever had any real pastry disasters?
0:09:39 > 0:09:41I've had all sorts of disasters.
0:09:41 > 0:09:44I was showing people how to make a quiche.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48I took it out and it cracked all down the middle.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51I said, "Pass me an egg white," and I painted it
0:09:51 > 0:09:54all across the crack, pushing it together, popped it back
0:09:54 > 0:09:59in the oven, which set it, and so my quiche base was held together again.
0:09:59 > 0:10:01So you averted the disaster.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03I did.
0:10:03 > 0:10:08Now, I've just glazed this with a little bit of apricot jam
0:10:08 > 0:10:10that's been warmed through and passed through a sieve
0:10:10 > 0:10:13so it gives it that lovely finishing touch.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18'An afternoon tea should always include some small, perfectly made
0:10:18 > 0:10:21'cakes, and mine is no exception.
0:10:21 > 0:10:24'The madeleines and custard tarts look sumptuous,
0:10:24 > 0:10:27'and I can't wait to dive in.'
0:10:27 > 0:10:29- What a picture! - Excuse fingers, Mary.
0:10:30 > 0:10:32- There we go.- And one of yours.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34- A madeleine and a little barquette. - That looks sheer perfection.
0:10:34 > 0:10:36- They really do.- So, tuck in. - Thank you.
0:10:36 > 0:10:39The beauty about the barquette is that you can pick it up
0:10:39 > 0:10:40with your fingers and just, mm!
0:10:40 > 0:10:43I absolutely love the shape, I've never seen them like this
0:10:43 > 0:10:46before. Normally they're round. But also, I love the contrast -
0:10:46 > 0:10:48you've got the real creaminess of the custard,
0:10:48 > 0:10:51but I love the acidity freshness of the fruit,
0:10:51 > 0:10:53I just think it works really beautifully.
0:10:53 > 0:10:59This pastry is absolutely delicious, it is so thin and it just encases
0:10:59 > 0:11:04this wonderful custard, which - all it needs is a little vanilla.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06I knew you were going to say that!
0:11:06 > 0:11:10No, but it does, it just needs it. But the consistency is lovely.
0:11:10 > 0:11:12Well, what about the madeleines? I mean, if you,
0:11:12 > 0:11:15you just squeeze them like that, you can see how bouncy they are,
0:11:15 > 0:11:17and the texture's just right, they're soft
0:11:17 > 0:11:20- and that little hint of lemon in there I think is wonderful.- Mm.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23My memory of these is the big bags that you used to get in France,
0:11:23 > 0:11:26and they're actually quite dry, and they don't have much taste,
0:11:26 > 0:11:29- so for me to taste something like this - it's just so light.- Mm.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32But it would be perfect for dunking, wouldn't it? Delicious.
0:11:32 > 0:11:33You're absolutely right.
0:11:33 > 0:11:37Which leads us on to what we should be drinking, Kate.
0:11:37 > 0:11:40Yes. Thought I'd go for a couple of sparkling wines,
0:11:40 > 0:11:43and the star performer of that has actually been Prosecco.
0:11:43 > 0:11:46- Prosecco's from northern Italy. - Slightly lower in alcohol as well.
0:11:46 > 0:11:50Correct, yes, it's slightly low in alcohol, slightly low in acidity,
0:11:50 > 0:11:54often a touch more sweetness, and it's quite simple, it's quite fresh.
0:11:54 > 0:11:57I love Champagne, but it's a different style, so...
0:11:57 > 0:11:59- Easy drinking, yes. - Yeah, easy drinking.
0:11:59 > 0:12:02And more reasonable, come on, that's the... One of the other reasons.
0:12:02 > 0:12:04And the reason it's more reasonable is because
0:12:04 > 0:12:07the production methods are cheaper.
0:12:07 > 0:12:10And they can do it over a larger area, can't they, than...
0:12:10 > 0:12:13Champagne has to come from Champagne.
0:12:13 > 0:12:16Well, actually, they can't, it's a similar thing to Champagne,
0:12:16 > 0:12:19that you can't call it Prosecco unless it's grown in that region.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23And the second one I had to go for is an English sparkling wine.
0:12:23 > 0:12:26Gosh, and would that be more expensive?
0:12:26 > 0:12:29They do tend to be a little bit more expensive than, certainly than
0:12:29 > 0:12:33the Prosecco, you're sort of getting into the realms of Champagne prices.
0:12:33 > 0:12:36I think in blind tasting, some English sparkling wines
0:12:36 > 0:12:39- actually beat Champagne.- Is that so?
0:12:39 > 0:12:42- And that comes from a Frenchman. - I know. It hurts!
0:12:42 > 0:12:44I'm sure it does!
0:12:44 > 0:12:46I think it's just lovely to have bubbles at teatime.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49'Kate's chosen three drinks that perfectly
0:12:49 > 0:12:51'compliment our afternoon tea.'
0:12:53 > 0:12:56'An English sparkling wine that has much in common with Champagne
0:12:56 > 0:12:58'and has lots of bubbles.'
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- What do you prefer?- The English sparkling, cos I've never had it.
0:13:01 > 0:13:03- There we go.- Thank you very much.
0:13:03 > 0:13:06'In contrast, a lightly sparkling frizzante Prosecco.'
0:13:06 > 0:13:09I'm a big fan of the Prosecco, I think it's just easy,
0:13:09 > 0:13:11simple - perfect afternoon drinking for me.
0:13:11 > 0:13:16'And of course tea, made with leaves and served in a bone china cup
0:13:16 > 0:13:18'and saucer - and not a mug!'
0:13:18 > 0:13:21Oh, yes, yes, you can't beat a cup of tea, I'll agree.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24Here's to you, and to you.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27We couldn't have a show about baking without talking about bread,
0:13:27 > 0:13:30and as food writer William Sitwell is going to find out,
0:13:30 > 0:13:32it's a very controversial subject.
0:13:42 > 0:13:4650 years ago, the village of Chorleywood in Hertfordshire became
0:13:46 > 0:13:50the unlikely birthplace of one of Britain's most vilified inventions.
0:13:50 > 0:13:55It was here that two scientists collapsed time.
0:13:56 > 0:14:01They made a loaf that from start to sliced finish just took a few
0:14:01 > 0:14:05hours, and this new loaf didn't go stale for at least a week.
0:14:06 > 0:14:10Since its invention, the Chorleywood bread process has been used
0:14:10 > 0:14:13to make bread across the world, but as it's become more
0:14:13 > 0:14:17and more popular, it's attracted almost rabid criticism.
0:14:19 > 0:14:2380% of the bread we eat today is made this way.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26Critics blame the threefold increase in the use of yeast
0:14:26 > 0:14:31and the cocktail of chemicals and enzymes used in the baking process
0:14:31 > 0:14:35for causing all sorts of dietary ailments.
0:14:35 > 0:14:39'It seems the bread we choose to eat is no longer just about
0:14:39 > 0:14:44'satisfying hunger, it's about health and declaring your social status.'
0:14:44 > 0:14:48You see, you're not "well-bread" unless it's artisan,
0:14:48 > 0:14:53you have to have sourdough or spelt, or Turkish pides or
0:14:53 > 0:14:58Tibetan flatbreads, or baguettes, but they've got to be organic,
0:14:58 > 0:15:01so we're talking about cholesterol-lowering,
0:15:01 > 0:15:05fertility-enhancing, muscle-building wholemeal,
0:15:05 > 0:15:08with of course extra seeds for roughage.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12For many, bread made the Chorleywood way is a complete no-no.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16Speciality breads, traditionally baked, are all the rage,
0:15:16 > 0:15:18but are they worth it?
0:15:18 > 0:15:22'Baker Paul Barker and Real Bread campaigner Chris Young think so.'
0:15:22 > 0:15:26What strikes me is there seems to be a conspiracy theory about this.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29There's a feeling that the people who invented the Chorleywood process
0:15:29 > 0:15:33are responsible for what could be a major public health scare
0:15:33 > 0:15:35of the future.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37People like me are quite happy to keep risking their life
0:15:37 > 0:15:39buying some pre-sliced bread.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42What is the evidence? No-one's died, what is your problem?
0:15:42 > 0:15:43Why risk your life
0:15:43 > 0:15:47when you could actually be eating something delicious like this?
0:15:47 > 0:15:50Well, it's cheaper, I'm an average shopper, I haven't got much time,
0:15:50 > 0:15:53I can't, you know, whistle down the high street going through a market
0:15:53 > 0:15:55with a basket under my arm - that's reality.
0:15:55 > 0:15:57There's no reason whatsoever that people can't have
0:15:57 > 0:16:00that on the table, you can make a loaf like that yourself at home
0:16:00 > 0:16:01with four ingredients.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03It takes time, real bread takes time, but not your time -
0:16:03 > 0:16:06you can make it in a bread machine, forget about it.
0:16:06 > 0:16:07And you'll get it fresh,
0:16:07 > 0:16:09it'll be less stale without artificial additives.
0:16:09 > 0:16:11You take loaves like these,
0:16:11 > 0:16:14this has got something called calcium propionate in it -
0:16:14 > 0:16:16they banned it in Germany in 1988,
0:16:16 > 0:16:19why on earth have we still got it in our loaves over here?
0:16:19 > 0:16:21But there's also an ingredient in here called E920 -
0:16:21 > 0:16:24I wouldn't be using that in my everyday loaf of bread.
0:16:24 > 0:16:27The other big issue for us is something like that from
0:16:27 > 0:16:30a small independent bakery creates more jobs per loaf than something
0:16:30 > 0:16:32like that. It's about community,
0:16:32 > 0:16:35it's about bringing real bread back to the hearts of our communities,
0:16:35 > 0:16:38and something that has been proven over generations,
0:16:38 > 0:16:40over centuries, to be good for us.
0:16:40 > 0:16:41You know, this is Marxism,
0:16:41 > 0:16:44you're sounding like sort of Soviet-style communists.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46If you're creating more jobs per loaf, that is helping local
0:16:46 > 0:16:49economies, helping money to be reinvested in our high street.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51But it's not happening for a reason, isn't it?
0:16:51 > 0:16:53You spend money down a supermarket, whoosh,
0:16:53 > 0:16:56it's gone off to shareholders - what good's that for your local
0:16:56 > 0:16:59community, and what good are all the additives for you?
0:16:59 > 0:17:01'It's all very well being an evangelical artisan,
0:17:01 > 0:17:06'but for me there are times when only sliced white will do.'
0:17:06 > 0:17:09A sausage sandwich on rye bread?
0:17:09 > 0:17:12That would be a crime against humanity.
0:17:21 > 0:17:26Cheese on toast, on soda bread? That would be treason.
0:17:28 > 0:17:31There is a place in this world for sublime speciality breads,
0:17:31 > 0:17:36for chilli ciabattas, for olive paninis, health breads
0:17:36 > 0:17:40for the sock-and-sandal brigade. There is also room in this world
0:17:40 > 0:17:43for bread whose main ingredient is bird seed,
0:17:43 > 0:17:46but in a world that we all actually want to live in,
0:17:46 > 0:17:51surely there is also room for bread that is nutritionally iffy,
0:17:51 > 0:17:54that's cheap, that's crappy and that's white.
0:17:54 > 0:17:57Believe it or not, more than half the people in Britain think that
0:17:57 > 0:18:02that is a bigger and more important invention than the mobile phone.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06For me, artisan bread is the only bread that I like to eat.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09Many people can't afford the more expensive breads,
0:18:09 > 0:18:13and this is cheaper, and it's a recession
0:18:13 > 0:18:16and they've got used to it, and they like it.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19- We have the choice. - I do my shopping on a Monday -
0:18:19 > 0:18:22if I'm buying bread I need it to last till at least Thursday.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26In France, we buy our bread twice a day, sometimes three times a day.
0:18:26 > 0:18:28Hey, I just don't have time, I don't have time in the morning.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31I'm not saying I would prefer necessarily to eat this,
0:18:31 > 0:18:34but on a practical level, I think it has a place.
0:18:34 > 0:18:36And also, when I was living in France, one thing
0:18:36 > 0:18:39I did find about buying bread on a daily basis -
0:18:39 > 0:18:40by the next day it was...
0:18:40 > 0:18:42you know, I could knock you out with it, sort of thing.
0:18:42 > 0:18:45Yeah, but you can always refresh your bread.
0:18:45 > 0:18:47Moisten it a bit, just brush it over with a little bit of water,
0:18:47 > 0:18:50and into a hot oven for about two minutes,
0:18:50 > 0:18:53and that will crisp out the edge and moisten the centre,
0:18:53 > 0:18:56and you've got a lovely, fresh baked baguette the second day.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58OK, right.
0:18:58 > 0:19:00That's a tip for us all.
0:19:00 > 0:19:03So you could buy a baguette as well and use it up quickly
0:19:03 > 0:19:05and if not do just as you say.
0:19:05 > 0:19:06Or make it into a dessert!
0:19:09 > 0:19:12We can't get enough of puddings, pastries and pies.
0:19:12 > 0:19:14A third of us bake from scratch every week,
0:19:14 > 0:19:19and sales of bakeware have doubled in the past two years.
0:19:19 > 0:19:22You can have all the kit you like, but in the end the perfect bake
0:19:22 > 0:19:25will depend on using the right ingredients.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31I hear there's something that you two fundamentally disagree on.
0:19:31 > 0:19:37Whether you use butter or baking spread in your Victoria sponge.
0:19:37 > 0:19:40So I have a taste test for you
0:19:40 > 0:19:43to see if you can tell the difference.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45A-ha!
0:19:45 > 0:19:47Oh, that one looks good.
0:19:47 > 0:19:50So, Michel, you're the pro-butter, I take it.
0:19:50 > 0:19:55Well, yes, of course, of course - it has to be butter every time.
0:19:55 > 0:19:59It is easier to make it with a baking spread.
0:19:59 > 0:20:01Now, I'm just... May I just explain?
0:20:01 > 0:20:02- I love it.- Please.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06First of all, people always use the creaming method,
0:20:06 > 0:20:09and to get the butter just at the right - sort of squidgy,
0:20:09 > 0:20:12but not runny, is quite difficult, whereas if you use
0:20:12 > 0:20:19a specially formulated spread for baking, it goes together very nicely.
0:20:19 > 0:20:21It just makes it easier.
0:20:21 > 0:20:24I'm not convinced, Mary, but what about the taste?
0:20:24 > 0:20:26- Because that's the most important. - That's the real test, isn't it?
0:20:26 > 0:20:29Well, it's very light.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33Oh, wow, they're very different, actually.
0:20:33 > 0:20:36They look very similar. So which do you like best?
0:20:36 > 0:20:38- That one.- Mm, I prefer that one.
0:20:38 > 0:20:41I prefer that one. They're both really good sponges.
0:20:41 > 0:20:42- I like that one too. - And I like that one.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46I think it's just a bit denser for me, and I like that in cakes.
0:20:46 > 0:20:48So, come on, well, somebody's going to come up with the answer.
0:20:48 > 0:20:50Who's going to put us out of our misery?
0:20:50 > 0:20:52This one is actually Mary's.
0:20:52 > 0:20:55- Ohhhh!- Ohhh!
0:20:55 > 0:20:57- So you win.- Good.- This once.
0:20:57 > 0:21:00- Well done. Yeah, yeah, this once! Well done!- Just this once.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04But we both have got our pastry roots in Paris.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07But, to be honest, you were there for two years,
0:21:07 > 0:21:10and I just went to the Cordon Bleu to take the exam
0:21:10 > 0:21:13and I was there for a month, so you win!
0:21:13 > 0:21:15LAUGHTER
0:21:16 > 0:21:19Mary and I both know that French pastries are the pinnacle
0:21:19 > 0:21:20of perfection.
0:21:20 > 0:21:25Rachel Khoo finds out why the Parisians do it so well.
0:21:29 > 0:21:31When I moved to Paris seven years ago,
0:21:31 > 0:21:34I began a love affair with their food.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38'The French are known across the world for their baking,
0:21:38 > 0:21:41'and quality is key, whatever your budget.'
0:21:42 > 0:21:46On every street corner, there are independent boulangeries
0:21:46 > 0:21:48baking bread and croissants.
0:21:48 > 0:21:51Well, you can hear it, it's got this crispy sound,
0:21:51 > 0:21:54so you can tell this is a good croissant.
0:21:55 > 0:21:58See, the crisp, caramelised outside, it's crunchy,
0:21:58 > 0:22:01slightly hard, and then you can
0:22:01 > 0:22:04peel off these layers...
0:22:08 > 0:22:12And of course it tastes buttery. A perfect croissant.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16'So why is the baking here not only consistently high,
0:22:16 > 0:22:18'but affordable for everyone's pockets?'
0:22:21 > 0:22:25Here in Paris, when you buy food, you buy from local specialists
0:22:25 > 0:22:30who are respected for the time they have taken to perfect their art.
0:22:30 > 0:22:32I think I'll take a escargot praline.
0:22:32 > 0:22:34Oui.
0:22:34 > 0:22:36Christophe Vasseur is a master baker
0:22:36 > 0:22:38who is passionate about his profession.
0:22:38 > 0:22:42So what makes an artisan baker is the quality of ingredients,
0:22:42 > 0:22:44the time you spend on it?
0:22:44 > 0:22:48Time, because if we were to compare with an industrial process,
0:22:48 > 0:22:53this on a high-speed line takes about 20 minutes,
0:22:53 > 0:22:56from the moment you mix the ingredients to the moment
0:22:56 > 0:22:58you have the croissant cut and rolled.
0:22:58 > 0:23:01Here, 36 hours and I don't
0:23:01 > 0:23:04compromise on the quality of the ingredients I buy.
0:23:04 > 0:23:10In 1920, the price of a baguette was officially fixed by French law,
0:23:10 > 0:23:14and although no longer in force today, the legacy has stuck.
0:23:15 > 0:23:17Your croissant costs one euro 20.
0:23:17 > 0:23:211.20 euro, while an ordinary croissant industrially made,
0:23:21 > 0:23:24you would buy it for one or 1.10 sometimes.
0:23:24 > 0:23:29I think it's amazing that you can offer an artisanly-made croissant,
0:23:29 > 0:23:32handcrafted, at such an affordable price.
0:23:32 > 0:23:35Yeah, but to me this shall not become a luxury product,
0:23:35 > 0:23:40it shall stay affordable, popular, because this is daily food.
0:23:42 > 0:23:46For only an extra 10 cents, Christophe can create
0:23:46 > 0:23:49a quality product and still make a profit.
0:23:50 > 0:23:55Marche d'Aligre in Paris is one of my favourite markets to come to,
0:23:55 > 0:23:59cos you can see all this amazing fresh produce -
0:23:59 > 0:24:01it's not expensive, it's affordable.
0:24:02 > 0:24:05'The French value markets like these so much,
0:24:05 > 0:24:08'they've enshrined their preservation in law.'
0:24:08 > 0:24:10Ca c'est plus... Oui.
0:24:10 > 0:24:14'There is a law in France which prohibits opening large-size'
0:24:14 > 0:24:18supermarkets within the city boundaries, and that has
0:24:18 > 0:24:22helped the independent shops and markets to keep their trade.
0:24:22 > 0:24:24Merci beaucoup, monsieur.
0:24:24 > 0:24:25HE SPEAKS FRENCH
0:24:25 > 0:24:26Merci, au revoir!
0:24:29 > 0:24:31SHE GIGGLES
0:24:33 > 0:24:34I know supermarkets are here to stay
0:24:34 > 0:24:37and they do offer convenience in a time-poor age,
0:24:37 > 0:24:41but we should learn from the French and shop on our local high street.
0:24:41 > 0:24:45It's all about supporting independent artisan bakeries
0:24:45 > 0:24:46and patisseries.
0:24:47 > 0:24:50It might at first be a bit more expensive,
0:24:50 > 0:24:52but there will be a tipping point.
0:24:52 > 0:24:55The more bakeries there are, the more competitive the prices will become.
0:24:55 > 0:24:59It's never going to be like a cheap supermarket buy,
0:24:59 > 0:25:01but it will become more affordable
0:25:01 > 0:25:04and something which is not just for people on a high income.
0:25:04 > 0:25:10'True love means you have to commit. Parisians simply love patisserie.'
0:25:10 > 0:25:13And when it's this delicious, it's not difficult to.
0:25:18 > 0:25:22The archetypal French patisserie has to be the apple tart.
0:25:22 > 0:25:24It's one of the first things I learnt to make
0:25:24 > 0:25:26when I was training to be a patissier,
0:25:26 > 0:25:30and now I'm going to show you how to make this classic dessert.
0:25:30 > 0:25:34I love making pastry, but when it comes to puff pastry,
0:25:34 > 0:25:38even Michelin-starred chefs use a few shortcuts at home,
0:25:38 > 0:25:42and shop-bought puff pastry is one of my guilty speedy secrets.
0:25:42 > 0:25:46And once you've rolled it out to fairly thin, I mean, we're
0:25:46 > 0:25:49talking a couple of millimetres, you need to put it on the tray.
0:25:49 > 0:25:54Now, I'm going to get a plate to make it the perfect round.
0:25:57 > 0:26:01Crimp the pastry and flip it over before resting it in the fridge.
0:26:01 > 0:26:05Six eating apples that hold their shape when cooked
0:26:05 > 0:26:06will be enough for this tart.
0:26:06 > 0:26:11You don't want the apple slices too thin - and that's just right.
0:26:11 > 0:26:14Once rested and chilled, spread some stewed apple or compote over
0:26:14 > 0:26:18the base of the pastry, and start layering the apples over the top.
0:26:18 > 0:26:23And it has to be exactly the same distance between each slice,
0:26:23 > 0:26:27and then when you get to the smaller slices, they go in the middle.
0:26:32 > 0:26:35Right, that's taking shape, it's looking great.
0:26:35 > 0:26:37One more slice, that should be enough.
0:26:37 > 0:26:42Now, very important - butter, lots of butter.
0:26:43 > 0:26:48A sprinkling of sugar, a little bit of egg yolk on there to give it
0:26:48 > 0:26:51that lovely lustre and shine.
0:26:51 > 0:26:56So there we go, 200 degrees centigrade for about 30 minutes.
0:26:59 > 0:27:03You couldn't have apple tart without cream of one shape or form.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05Whip the seeds from a vanilla pod
0:27:05 > 0:27:10and a tablespoon of icing sugar into 250 mil of double cream for
0:27:10 > 0:27:14a delicious Chantilly cream that's a perfect match for the apple tart.
0:27:14 > 0:27:16- Oh, gosh, that looks beautiful. - Amazing.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19We're warming off the Calvados to warm up the alcohol,
0:27:19 > 0:27:23to make it vaporise, and then just get the flame onto it.
0:27:23 > 0:27:26It's almost Christmassy, isn't it? Like Christmas pudding.
0:27:26 > 0:27:28- It is Christmassy, isn't it?- Ahh!
0:27:28 > 0:27:31- Goes there.- What a smell.
0:27:31 > 0:27:33Apple tart is actually quite dessert wine friendly,
0:27:33 > 0:27:36so you can be quite... You know, you've got quite a scope
0:27:36 > 0:27:39of options, but because you've got the cream with the Calvados...
0:27:39 > 0:27:40Ha-ha, yes.
0:27:40 > 0:27:43..you need something a little bit more robust,
0:27:43 > 0:27:46so I've actually selected a fortified wine, a Madeira.
0:27:46 > 0:27:48You get a really lovely, rich, sweet Madeira,
0:27:48 > 0:27:50so we've gone for something sweet
0:27:50 > 0:27:54but you've also got lovely acidity in Madeira. With the acidity
0:27:54 > 0:27:58of the apples, you need something that's sweet, if not sweeter.
0:28:03 > 0:28:05Looks great.
0:28:06 > 0:28:09- Oh.- Oh, and the pastry's done underneath. Lovely.
0:28:09 > 0:28:11- Mm.- Mm.
0:28:11 > 0:28:13Oh, yes.
0:28:13 > 0:28:15A lovely way to go, isn't it?
0:28:15 > 0:28:17THEY LAUGH
0:28:17 > 0:28:18That is great.
0:28:18 > 0:28:22In my opinion, baking is good for you, and it brings you together.
0:28:22 > 0:28:26It might seem like a hard skill to master,
0:28:26 > 0:28:29but you can have a lot of fun practising, and of course you
0:28:29 > 0:28:35very soon become the most popular person with your friends and family.
0:28:35 > 0:28:37- Cheers.- Cheers.
0:28:40 > 0:28:43'Next time, award-winning street food entrepreneur Jun Tanaka
0:28:43 > 0:28:46'and I talk burgers!'
0:28:47 > 0:28:48Oh, look at that.
0:28:48 > 0:28:52'And chef and working mum Monica Galetti shares her secret
0:28:52 > 0:28:55'to getting children to eat their greens.'
0:28:55 > 0:28:56Yummy.
0:29:10 > 0:29:13Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd