0:00:03 > 0:00:07There's nothing I can more about than what, how and why we eat and drink.
0:00:09 > 0:00:11We're constantly being bombarded by trends
0:00:11 > 0:00:14that influence the way we shop and cook today.
0:00:17 > 0:00:19We're living in turbulent times
0:00:19 > 0:00:23and there's no better way to make ourselves feel good about the world
0:00:23 > 0:00:27than turning back the clock and digging in to nostalgic foods.
0:00:27 > 0:00:29I close my eyes and that's it. Childhood memories.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33Helping me create some of my favourite dishes
0:00:33 > 0:00:36is writer and chef Monica Galetti.
0:00:36 > 0:00:39I pulled it off the heat because Chef's a bit slow today
0:00:39 > 0:00:42and I have to wait for him to finish cooking his...
0:00:42 > 0:00:43My lovely floating islands.
0:00:43 > 0:00:47I'll be passing on some of my trade secrets.
0:00:47 > 0:00:49These that are left over, you just pop them open
0:00:49 > 0:00:52and you get that lovely roasted garlic!
0:00:52 > 0:00:55Award-winning drinks expert Kate Goodman
0:00:55 > 0:00:58gives us the low-down on the best food and drink matches.
0:00:58 > 0:01:02A lovely, warm, soothing wine, brilliant with this.
0:01:02 > 0:01:07And food writer William Sitwell is convinced we've all lost the plot
0:01:07 > 0:01:10when it comes to our obsession with nostalgic food.
0:01:10 > 0:01:13I think the world has gone mad!
0:01:13 > 0:01:17We hark back to a golden era that, at worst, didn't exist,
0:01:17 > 0:01:19and, at best, was never as good as we thought it was.
0:01:21 > 0:01:23Let's talk food.
0:01:24 > 0:01:25Welcome to Food and Drink!
0:01:28 > 0:01:31Comfort food. What's yours?
0:01:31 > 0:01:33Pasta? Cake?
0:01:33 > 0:01:38A roast? For many of us, our comfort food is rooted in nostalgia.
0:01:38 > 0:01:41Coming from a family of Michelin-starred chefs,
0:01:41 > 0:01:44you might think that mine is a Chateaubriand or lobster.
0:01:44 > 0:01:47Well, actually, it's my mum's shepherd's pie!
0:01:48 > 0:01:52My mother's shepherd's pie isn't just any old shepherd's pie.
0:01:52 > 0:01:54I'll let you into a secret.
0:01:54 > 0:01:57It's actually made with leftovers.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00There were never any leftovers in our house!
0:02:00 > 0:02:03There were five of us, and there were never any leftovers!
0:02:03 > 0:02:05There should always be a little bit of leftover!
0:02:05 > 0:02:07Or preferably a lot!
0:02:07 > 0:02:10The trick is buying a leg of lamb that's big enough in the first place.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14You'll need about 500g of lamb to make this dish.
0:02:14 > 0:02:17Believe me, once you've tasted shepherd's pie made this way,
0:02:17 > 0:02:21your Sunday joint will get even bigger.
0:02:21 > 0:02:22Nothing else comes close.
0:02:22 > 0:02:27- Could you use minced lamb, pre-bought?- You can, but you know what?
0:02:27 > 0:02:30It's not, I don't think, as good.
0:02:30 > 0:02:32Because the beauty of using the roast leg of lamb
0:02:32 > 0:02:36is that you've got this lovely fat and the caramelised meat on the outside
0:02:36 > 0:02:39and the beautiful rare meat on the inside.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42I think that gives it great balance. And you've got all these lovely roasting juices,
0:02:42 > 0:02:44which you don't get if you're going to use mince.
0:02:44 > 0:02:49Of course, being a French household, our lamb was roasted very rare.
0:02:49 > 0:02:54But if I'm honest, as a kid, I really didn't like this rare one.
0:02:54 > 0:02:58- I only liked the outside bits, the caramelised bits.- Ah!
0:02:58 > 0:03:01What was your comfort food as a child growing up in Samoa?
0:03:01 > 0:03:05In Samoa, a lot of our food is coconut cream.
0:03:05 > 0:03:09Just about everything. Desserts, starters, main courses.
0:03:09 > 0:03:11Throw a bit of coconut cream in.
0:03:11 > 0:03:15So if I think of Samoan food, the first thing that comes to mind is coconut cream.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17No coconut cream in this shepherd's pie!
0:03:17 > 0:03:19What would you recommend with this, Kate?
0:03:19 > 0:03:21It's interesting with roast lamb.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25If it was eaten like that, the classic wine mix would be a Rioja,
0:03:25 > 0:03:27a Rioja Reserve, maybe a bit of spice.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29Quite bold flavours.
0:03:29 > 0:03:35- Or a Cabernet Sauvignon blend, perhaps a Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot from Bordeaux.- Yes.
0:03:35 > 0:03:36It's roast lamb but in another dish,
0:03:36 > 0:03:40so I'm thinking I might spice it up a bit, go for something a bit different.
0:03:40 > 0:03:42But what's going with the shepherd's pie?
0:03:42 > 0:03:46Stir-fried cabbage with garlic and chilli and a bit of fish sauce.
0:03:46 > 0:03:48Oh, man! Wow!
0:03:48 > 0:03:50- Good luck!- Thank you!
0:03:50 > 0:03:53What I loved about my mum's roast lamb
0:03:53 > 0:03:55was that she'd put loads and loads of garlic around it
0:03:55 > 0:04:01in their skins. And these that are left over, you pop them open and get that lovely roast garlic.
0:04:01 > 0:04:03Oh, lovely!
0:04:03 > 0:04:05Mmm!
0:04:07 > 0:04:09A golden rule when matching wine with food
0:04:09 > 0:04:10is that the flavour of the wine
0:04:10 > 0:04:14shouldn't be more or less powerful than the food.
0:04:14 > 0:04:17I've gone for a hearty red wine from southern France
0:04:17 > 0:04:22which will balance, not overwhelm or get lost amongst the flavours.
0:04:28 > 0:04:31My second choice is a full-bodied bitter.
0:04:31 > 0:04:36It has a freshness that will work really nicely with the spicy cabbage
0:04:36 > 0:04:39and at the same time, its rich fruitiness
0:04:39 > 0:04:42will cope with the wholesome meatiness of the pie.
0:04:47 > 0:04:51My third match is a refreshing apple and beetroot juice.
0:04:51 > 0:04:55The subtle earthiness of the beetroot will work well with the savouriness of the dish
0:04:55 > 0:04:59and the apple will take out some of the heat of the chilli.
0:05:07 > 0:05:11Let's get mincing. That goes in there. Everything in there.
0:05:11 > 0:05:13Mind your fingers. Let's go.
0:05:16 > 0:05:19The secret to making this dish really special is using a mincer.
0:05:19 > 0:05:22For me, it's a vital bit of kit
0:05:22 > 0:05:25that gives the filling a melt in the mouth texture.
0:05:25 > 0:05:30Add a shallot, carrot, a couple of sticks of celery and parsley
0:05:30 > 0:05:32to create the perfect shepherd's pie.
0:05:32 > 0:05:36If you haven't got a mincer, you could chop it by hand,
0:05:36 > 0:05:38but it's not quite the same.
0:05:38 > 0:05:42I would invest in a mincer, even a hand mincer.
0:05:42 > 0:05:44That smells amazing.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50- Happy with that?- Now we need to season this
0:05:50 > 0:05:52and Kate?
0:05:52 > 0:05:55Can you pass me my secret ingredient, please?
0:05:55 > 0:05:57Yep. Direction?
0:05:57 > 0:06:00- On the shelf. What do you reckon? - It's not going to be that.
0:06:00 > 0:06:02- Yeah, that's the one!- Tommy K?
0:06:02 > 0:06:07You use Tommy K in your shepherd's pie?! You're a Michelin-starred chef!
0:06:07 > 0:06:11- What's that about?- That's why they've all got Michelin stars! Tommy K!
0:06:11 > 0:06:15- It's the secret!- It's going to sweeten the shepherd's pie,
0:06:15 > 0:06:18season it and give it a lovely texture as well.
0:06:18 > 0:06:21Now, that all gets mixed in. Here we go.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27I want to serve with this wonderful seasonal cabbage - hispi cabbage -
0:06:27 > 0:06:30which is sweet, crunchy,
0:06:30 > 0:06:35and it's perfect for sauteeing or stir-frying.
0:06:35 > 0:06:38But you can use any kind of cabbage that's in season.
0:06:38 > 0:06:41If you haven't got cabbage, then pak choi.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43- Pak choi is available all year round.- Nice.
0:06:43 > 0:06:47With it, I'm going to put some chilli and fish sauce.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50I want to stir-fry it and not boil it to death!
0:06:50 > 0:06:53Good. That reminds me of my gran.
0:06:53 > 0:06:55That's obviously a good thing, my gran,
0:06:55 > 0:06:57but boiled cabbage wasn't!
0:06:57 > 0:06:59After spooning the base of the pie into the dish,
0:06:59 > 0:07:03generously cover it with lots of buttery mash.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05Floury potatoes make the best mash.
0:07:05 > 0:07:10And I never add anything else to the mix except butter and a splash of milk.
0:07:10 > 0:07:15This mashed potato is made the way the Roux household make mashed potato.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19And that's practically equal quantities of butter to potato!
0:07:19 > 0:07:25- Wow!- Cover the shepherd's pie with foil and put in the oven at 180 degrees.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29The secret to getting the perfect, crunchy golden brown topping
0:07:29 > 0:07:36is to remove the foil after half an hour and turn up the temperature to 200 degrees for the last 10 minutes.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39And to go with this crispy, comforting pie,
0:07:39 > 0:07:42a spicy modern take on a nostalgic classic.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46We need a little bit of garlic and a little chilli.
0:07:46 > 0:07:48It's up to you how hot you want it, really, isn't it?
0:07:48 > 0:07:52- I agree.- I like this accompaniment because it is different
0:07:52 > 0:07:54and I think it's challenging.
0:07:54 > 0:07:58Quickly stir-fry the finely-sliced cabbage, chilli and garlic
0:07:58 > 0:07:59with the fish sauce,
0:07:59 > 0:08:02so it keeps its colour and stays crunchy.
0:08:03 > 0:08:07This is the ideal accompaniment to the ultimate comfort food.
0:08:08 > 0:08:10Smells great!
0:08:10 > 0:08:11Mmm!
0:08:11 > 0:08:14- Doesn't that looks good?- Looks good. - Looks gorgeous!
0:08:15 > 0:08:19And all these lovely burnt bits on the side are the best bits.
0:08:19 > 0:08:20Yes, you can break them off later.
0:08:20 > 0:08:22- Are you ready for this?- Go for it!
0:08:22 > 0:08:24Right.
0:08:24 > 0:08:26Here goes.
0:08:26 > 0:08:28Ooh, look at that.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32Tell you what, I think your mum would be pleased!
0:08:32 > 0:08:35- You haven't tasted it yet! - It looks and smells divine.
0:08:35 > 0:08:39I remember with my sister we would fight over this, especially the corner bits
0:08:39 > 0:08:42which were so caramelised.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45And in our haste, we would burn the roof of our mouths
0:08:45 > 0:08:47because we wanted to gobble it down so quickly.
0:08:47 > 0:08:51This really was one of our favourite dishes.
0:08:51 > 0:08:53Kate, do you want some Tommy K to go on top of that?
0:08:53 > 0:08:56- That would offend your mother. - It would offend me, as well!
0:08:57 > 0:08:59Please!
0:08:59 > 0:09:01Monica, some red wine for you.
0:09:01 > 0:09:06We've got a lovely Cairanne wine, it comes under the umbrella of Cotes du Rhone Villages.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10There's lots of Grenache, a lovely supple grape.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13A bit of spice, lots of juicy red fruits.
0:09:13 > 0:09:16A bit of blackcurrant, a bit of white pepper.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19It's a lovely, warm, soothing wine, brilliant with this.
0:09:19 > 0:09:22This is lovely, and it does match very well.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26What is surprising is it actually brings the spice out even more
0:09:26 > 0:09:27in the cabbage.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31You really get that spice that's opened up with this wine.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33It's a great match. You've done yourself justice here.
0:09:33 > 0:09:35Shame I'm not drinking it!
0:09:35 > 0:09:38- I've got a beetroot juice! - I'll enjoy it for you!
0:09:38 > 0:09:42The apple and beetroot juice, because it's got that apple,
0:09:42 > 0:09:43it's actually quite refreshing.
0:09:43 > 0:09:48It's working really well with the cabbage and the spiciness of the cabbage.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51There's a bit of saltiness in there. So I'm enjoying it.
0:09:51 > 0:09:55I think it might be a bit heavy to drink any more than that.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58A nice little taste is working nicely
0:09:58 > 0:10:00but a long glass, I'm not so sure.
0:10:00 > 0:10:05- So what have I got?- Michel, you've got the lovely, spicy, peppery ale.
0:10:05 > 0:10:09See how you find it. It's hearty, so it's good for the shepherd's pie.
0:10:09 > 0:10:13But equally, it will bring out the flavours again of the cabbage and the chilli
0:10:13 > 0:10:15cos it's got that spicy peppery character.
0:10:15 > 0:10:17It is a damn good match
0:10:17 > 0:10:19and I do like my beer!
0:10:19 > 0:10:22I like wine more, but I do like my beer!
0:10:22 > 0:10:24And it works really well
0:10:24 > 0:10:26especially with this spicy cabbage.
0:10:26 > 0:10:31But the thing is, this is a really homely, warm and filling dish.
0:10:31 > 0:10:34And that's why I think the beer works well, as well.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37'Cooking a proper home-made meal like this
0:10:37 > 0:10:39'gives me as much comfort as eating it.
0:10:39 > 0:10:42'But as food writer William Sitwell finds out,
0:10:42 > 0:10:48'the explosion in sales of factory produced traditional old-fashioned food and drink
0:10:48 > 0:10:53'tells us that the future is the past and it's big business.'
0:10:53 > 0:10:56MUSIC: New World Symphony by Dvorak
0:10:56 > 0:11:00I think the world has gone mad.
0:11:00 > 0:11:02Sales of old-fashioned comfort food are up.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05Corned beef is up 16%.
0:11:05 > 0:11:08Custard powder - custard powder?! - has doubled!
0:11:08 > 0:11:13You know, this obsession for "nosh-talgia" is simply nonsense,
0:11:13 > 0:11:15but worse than that,
0:11:15 > 0:11:17I think it holds our food culture back.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19Because we hark back to a golden era
0:11:19 > 0:11:21that, at worst, didn't exist,
0:11:21 > 0:11:24and, at best, was never as good as we thought it was.
0:11:24 > 0:11:29Take our current nostalgic obsession with cake.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34When I think of cup cakes, I think of home baking, 1950s.
0:11:34 > 0:11:35"You've never had it so good."
0:11:35 > 0:11:37When I eat it...
0:11:38 > 0:11:41I think sugar, rotted teeth.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45They might have tasted good at the time,
0:11:45 > 0:11:48but they ended up being a real pain in the gums.
0:11:50 > 0:11:53Nostalgic food disappoints me in so many ways.
0:11:54 > 0:11:55Take the pasty.
0:11:55 > 0:11:58Ah, the smell gets me every time.
0:11:58 > 0:12:03I'm back in my childhood. The sea, a shrimp net in my hand.
0:12:06 > 0:12:09But it's actually just dough and a really boring filling.
0:12:09 > 0:12:13The main thing I hate about it is that these foods bear little resemblance
0:12:13 > 0:12:16to their original robust form.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18But worse than that,
0:12:18 > 0:12:21some of our favourite "traditional" dishes have just been made up!
0:12:21 > 0:12:24I hate the ploughman's lunch. What a fake!
0:12:24 > 0:12:28Invented, apparently by the English Country Cheese Council.
0:12:28 > 0:12:31I bet they all wore smocks!
0:12:31 > 0:12:33Clearly a marketing ploy to sell cheese.
0:12:33 > 0:12:36And a successful one at that.
0:12:36 > 0:12:40But really? Does harking back to an imagined past do us any favours?
0:12:40 > 0:12:44This retreat to the food of our grandparents or great-grandparents
0:12:44 > 0:12:47is a reaction to the stressful times we live in.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49But paradoxically, in times of stress,
0:12:49 > 0:12:52comfort is not our friend.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55Human evolution depends on innovation.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58Let's face it, we'd still be eating raw meat
0:12:58 > 0:13:01if our ancestors hadn't moved onto cooking our food.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04I think we're way too nervous of the future
0:13:04 > 0:13:06and need to get our heads out of the past.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12If we do think that food in the past was great,
0:13:12 > 0:13:14well, we ignore a lot of facts.
0:13:14 > 0:13:19Firstly, that quality food was really only for rich people.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22That two World Wars meant decades of rationing
0:13:22 > 0:13:24and if we did get hold of some decent vegetables,
0:13:24 > 0:13:27well, what was our national sport? Ruining them!
0:13:27 > 0:13:29And who's to blame for much of this?
0:13:29 > 0:13:31Well, in my view, one lady.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33Mrs Isabella Beeton.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37This book meant the death of culinary sophistication.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40Not a single one of the thousands of recipes in this tome
0:13:40 > 0:13:44uses any spices, wine or even fresh herbs.
0:13:44 > 0:13:46And she was obsessed with overcooking things.
0:13:47 > 0:13:50"Vegetables that are cooked in a raw state
0:13:50 > 0:13:52"are apt to ferment in the stomach", she said,
0:13:52 > 0:13:56thereby convincing people to boil vegetables to death,
0:13:56 > 0:13:59a tradition that lasted well into the 1980s.
0:14:00 > 0:14:02Don't get me wrong. Mrs Beeton has her place.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05But we should have more confidence in today.
0:14:05 > 0:14:10Modern chefs have been busy building new relationships with real heritage foods.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13We've actually now got a cuisine we can be proud of.
0:14:15 > 0:14:18I think we should take comfort from that.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24If I was a psychologist, I'd put you on the couch
0:14:24 > 0:14:29and I'd say, "Forget this crazy obsession with foody nostalgia.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31"Let it go.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34"The important thing is what food tastes like now."
0:14:34 > 0:14:40So loosen the straitjacket of sticky buns and stodgy pies.
0:14:40 > 0:14:44For a delicious future, your food culture needs you!
0:14:44 > 0:14:48There's so much emotion invested in nostalgic food,
0:14:48 > 0:14:52it's often hard to separate taste and flavour from meaning.
0:14:52 > 0:14:54Has William really got a point?
0:14:54 > 0:14:58Well, I'm not sure, you know. I think the thing about nostalgia is,
0:14:58 > 0:15:00the pleasure that it gives me now.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03It's kind of irrelevant what happened then.
0:15:03 > 0:15:07What I like now, if I'm chatting with my brother and sister
0:15:07 > 0:15:12and we'd talk about the times we went to Cornwall and ate pasties every day,
0:15:12 > 0:15:15I can't remember how they tasted. What I remember now is that experience.
0:15:15 > 0:15:21The fact that we were probably sat in a car park in Cornwall and it was pouring down
0:15:21 > 0:15:25and I was probably moaning, saying, "Why can't we go to Spain like all my mates?"
0:15:25 > 0:15:26that sort of thing, is irrelevant.
0:15:26 > 0:15:30Then again, we've all had a bad pasty or some overcooked cabbage.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34If it's bad, then how can it evoke good memories?
0:15:34 > 0:15:38You could say that about anything. The fact it was bad might make us laugh now!
0:15:38 > 0:15:41- Exactly!- The main thing is we were having a good time
0:15:41 > 0:15:42and maybe it wasn't the best pasty.
0:15:42 > 0:15:45That's why the supermarkets have labelled all these dishes,
0:15:45 > 0:15:49these pies, "traditionally baked" or "hand-made" or such like.
0:15:49 > 0:15:51They're selling us this dream.
0:15:51 > 0:15:54But it's food, comfort food, something I have in my culture.
0:15:54 > 0:15:58I live away from Samoa. I don't know any here in the UK.
0:15:58 > 0:16:02If you take that away, what do you have? You crave it.
0:16:02 > 0:16:06- Exactly.- That's what I find. I crave it because I'm here and I don't have the access to that.
0:16:06 > 0:16:09For example, my cousin lives in Japan.
0:16:09 > 0:16:11And when the tsunami hit,
0:16:11 > 0:16:15he said all the Japanese were asking people to send ramen noodles
0:16:15 > 0:16:17because it was their comfort food.
0:16:17 > 0:16:21In their time of need, what do they all have in common?
0:16:21 > 0:16:24- They all related to this one simple food.- Yeah.
0:16:24 > 0:16:26It's all they wanted.
0:16:26 > 0:16:28Another example was 9/11.
0:16:28 > 0:16:33When that horrible tragedy hit, the people wanted macaroni and cheese.
0:16:33 > 0:16:38Why? Because they were in need to be comforted and this is what they wanted.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41It's called comfort food for that reason.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43So I have to disagree with him. I have to disagree.
0:16:43 > 0:16:46Talking of comfort food, if I gave you a fiver,
0:16:46 > 0:16:49what would you get for that fiver as comfort food?
0:16:49 > 0:16:52I would buy a big bag of crisps!
0:16:52 > 0:16:56- Really?!- Good crisps. Salt and vinegar, preferably.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59- Monica?- I do like salt and vinegar crisps. I do.
0:16:59 > 0:17:01But chocolate wins hands down for me.
0:17:01 > 0:17:06If I had five pounds, I'd go out and buy the best darkest chocolate.
0:17:06 > 0:17:08Even if it was only a mouthful.
0:17:08 > 0:17:10But the hit of cocoa solids
0:17:10 > 0:17:13and let it melt in the mouth. Mmm.
0:17:13 > 0:17:15- That's your comfort food, is it? - It is.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17But there is something else I'm really partial to
0:17:17 > 0:17:19and that's instant custard!
0:17:19 > 0:17:22Wow! Instant custard! There's a revelation!
0:17:22 > 0:17:26I'm guessing it's childhood memories of school.
0:17:26 > 0:17:30I used to hate the skin on the custard, but push the skin away
0:17:30 > 0:17:35and that custard was so good. It was lovely. I'd just have a bowl of it.
0:17:35 > 0:17:39'And I'm not alone. Comforting puddings are coming back.
0:17:39 > 0:17:41'Out in the cold for so many years,
0:17:41 > 0:17:46'it seems that now old-fashioned British stodgy pudds are back on the world's menus.
0:17:46 > 0:17:48'But are they worth the calories?
0:17:48 > 0:17:50'Food writer Matthew Fort'
0:17:50 > 0:17:53believes it's time to come out in support
0:17:53 > 0:17:55of the great British pudding.
0:17:55 > 0:18:00Over the years, I've eaten more than my fair share of Italian gelatis,
0:18:00 > 0:18:03fancy French tarts, baklava from Turkey,
0:18:03 > 0:18:06kulfi from India, desserts from around the world.
0:18:06 > 0:18:09But let's face it. When it comes down to it,
0:18:09 > 0:18:12there is absolutely nothing to beat
0:18:12 > 0:18:15a grand British pudding
0:18:15 > 0:18:19in bringing a lunch or dinner to a glorious, happy,
0:18:19 > 0:18:23mouth-watering, tummy-filling full stop!
0:18:25 > 0:18:27Summer pudding, bread and butter pudding,
0:18:27 > 0:18:29crunchy, munchy puddings.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32Creamy, dreamy puddings.
0:18:32 > 0:18:37Puddings not just to be eaten, but to be savoured, to be indulged in,
0:18:37 > 0:18:39to be loved.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43Let's face it, no country in the world approaches Britain
0:18:43 > 0:18:46for the wealth and diversity of its pudding culture.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50But there was a time when puddings fell from public favour.
0:18:50 > 0:18:52Perhaps we took them for granted,
0:18:52 > 0:18:57perhaps their home-spun virtues paled beside the lure of the exotic.
0:18:57 > 0:19:01For whatever reason, they almost vanished from the culinary radar.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06And here, at the uber-fashionable Tramshed
0:19:06 > 0:19:07in uber-fashionable East London,
0:19:07 > 0:19:09the same thing is happening.
0:19:09 > 0:19:12Great British puddings from the past are back on the menu.
0:19:13 > 0:19:17Owner Mark Hix is one of the capital's hottest culinary names.
0:19:17 > 0:19:22He and his pastry chef Ronnie Murray are behind this retro re-invention.
0:19:22 > 0:19:26Mark, why are you bringing back British puddings on your menu?
0:19:26 > 0:19:29I think that people realise these days that flavour is the key.
0:19:29 > 0:19:35Years ago, presentation, especially in a restaurant, was key, and flavour was second.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38But I think the thing with British desserts
0:19:38 > 0:19:40is that they don't always look great,
0:19:40 > 0:19:43but the flavour's fantastic.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45They taste fabulous.
0:19:45 > 0:19:48A lot of desserts on the continent, there's too many flavours going on.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51Whereas I think if you've got an apple pie, for example,
0:19:51 > 0:19:54you're eating apple pie all the way through.
0:19:56 > 0:19:58'Ronnie is preparing that classic pudd,
0:19:58 > 0:20:01'the Sussex pond pudding.
0:20:01 > 0:20:08'It may not be exactly eye candy, but it's a joy to eat!'
0:20:08 > 0:20:11For me, the Sussex pond pudding is the Everest of puddings.
0:20:11 > 0:20:13There is no greater pudding.
0:20:13 > 0:20:16It is a monument to British puddingdom!
0:20:16 > 0:20:20- So you've got a suet pastry lining the inside of the basin.- Yep.
0:20:20 > 0:20:24And then the whole of the inside is filled with?
0:20:24 > 0:20:28Almost equal quantities of butter to light brown sugar.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30So very healthy(!)
0:20:31 > 0:20:34Combined with the fat in the pastry!
0:20:34 > 0:20:37- And the healthy element which is... - The lemon!- ..the lemon!
0:20:37 > 0:20:42But, in terms of delivering happiness,
0:20:42 > 0:20:45bringing a smile to the face
0:20:45 > 0:20:46and a beam to the tummy,
0:20:46 > 0:20:49there's absolutely nothing quite like it!
0:20:55 > 0:20:56Mmm!
0:20:59 > 0:21:02There's a subtle crunch of the suet crust
0:21:02 > 0:21:05that leaves your lips glossy.
0:21:05 > 0:21:09That little bit of dripping contained inside.
0:21:09 > 0:21:11There is...
0:21:12 > 0:21:14..that divine combination
0:21:14 > 0:21:17of butter and brown sugar
0:21:17 > 0:21:21that wrap themselves like a warm scarf around your taste buds.
0:21:22 > 0:21:27And when you have cleared up that last nubbly crumb,
0:21:27 > 0:21:29when you have scooped up...
0:21:29 > 0:21:34the last smear of cream or custard on your finger,
0:21:34 > 0:21:37you know, you just know
0:21:37 > 0:21:43that puddings are true, deep, sweet-natured soul food.
0:21:43 > 0:21:46Matthew is a fan of British pudds,
0:21:46 > 0:21:48but I'm a Frenchman, and in France,
0:21:48 > 0:21:51desserts don't get more nostalgic than Isles Flottantes,
0:21:51 > 0:21:54poached meringues on a creme Anglaise.
0:21:54 > 0:21:56It looks and tastes impressive
0:21:56 > 0:21:58and is not as hard to make as you might imagine.
0:21:58 > 0:22:02It's a French classic, and it's one that I love.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04It's homely, it's warm and it is incredibly simple.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06I'm going to show you how simple it is.
0:22:06 > 0:22:10Monica, if you could crack the eggs. I need eight egg yolks
0:22:10 > 0:22:14eight egg whites in the machine and 190g of sugar.
0:22:14 > 0:22:15Right.
0:22:15 > 0:22:17So we're talking meringues.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19- We are talking meringues. - Scary for me.
0:22:19 > 0:22:21Why? What part is scary?
0:22:21 > 0:22:24I don't know. Burning them, or what you put in there.
0:22:24 > 0:22:27Do you put vinegar in? That sort of thing?
0:22:27 > 0:22:29I just would be... It just makes me nervous.
0:22:29 > 0:22:33No. These are really very, very simple
0:22:33 > 0:22:36and they're poached, so you don't have to dry them out in the oven.
0:22:36 > 0:22:38- OK.- They're light and fluffy
0:22:38 > 0:22:40and they'll be covered in caramel
0:22:40 > 0:22:43so they have that lovely crunchy texture on the outside, gooey in the middle.
0:22:43 > 0:22:46And creamy and unctuous with the creme Anglaise.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49No cornflour, no vinegar.
0:22:49 > 0:22:50Just egg white and sugar.
0:22:50 > 0:22:55It's so simple. Everybody can make this, trust me!
0:22:55 > 0:22:57Creme Anglaise classic. It's going to be flavoured with vanilla.
0:22:57 > 0:23:01One of my all-time favourite spices.
0:23:01 > 0:23:05It's just so heavenly. This sings out French patisserie.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10A really lush vanilla pod is really worth spending the extra money on.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14You'll smell why, the moment you scrape the seeds out.
0:23:15 > 0:23:19Simmer the vanilla in 750ml of milk without bringing to the boil
0:23:19 > 0:23:23before adding 190g of sugar to eight egg yolks.
0:23:23 > 0:23:27Whisk that up so it goes to a lovely nice white ribbon.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30Then you pour the boiling milk over.
0:23:30 > 0:23:34A little bit at first, as we know what's going to happen otherwise!
0:23:34 > 0:23:36- Scrambled eggs!- Right. We don't want scrambled eggs.
0:23:36 > 0:23:40'Whisk the milk in before putting the custard back in the pan
0:23:40 > 0:23:42'and heat until it thickens.
0:23:43 > 0:23:44'Finally, the meringues.
0:23:44 > 0:23:49'Add another 190g of sugar to the remaining eight egg whites
0:23:49 > 0:23:52'and whisk until the peaks are smooth and glossy.'
0:23:52 > 0:23:54I'm not weighing the sugar
0:23:54 > 0:23:56because I've got years and years of experience.
0:23:56 > 0:24:02I can tell by the silkiness and the consistency of the egg whites when to stop!
0:24:02 > 0:24:06And I've got a sweet tooth, so I always put an extra spoonful in.
0:24:09 > 0:24:10There we go.
0:24:12 > 0:24:15Lovely. That looks so good.
0:24:15 > 0:24:17Silky white, perfect meringue.
0:24:17 > 0:24:19- Looking good.- Come and join us, Kate.- Love to.
0:24:21 > 0:24:22So...
0:24:22 > 0:24:25- Watch the action.- Watch the action.
0:24:25 > 0:24:27Right, Kate, here goes the caramel.
0:24:27 > 0:24:29So you just poured the sugar in.
0:24:29 > 0:24:32Yes, this is straight caramel, this is.
0:24:32 > 0:24:36Just the sugars. What we call in the chef world, a dry caramel.
0:24:36 > 0:24:39Because there's no liquid in it, it won't crystallise.
0:24:39 > 0:24:42So this, you can actually stir.
0:24:42 > 0:24:45So if it's getting too dark on one side, or not enough caramel on one side,
0:24:45 > 0:24:47- stir it round.- Keep the action going. OK.
0:24:47 > 0:24:51I've pulled it off the heat because Chef is a bit slow today
0:24:51 > 0:24:53and I've got to wait for him to finish cooking his...
0:24:53 > 0:24:57- My lovely floating islands.- They're looking good, I have to say.
0:24:57 > 0:24:59- Beautiful.- They do look good.
0:24:59 > 0:25:01So we've just got egg whites and sugar here.
0:25:03 > 0:25:06I'm shaping them into these lovely floating islands,
0:25:06 > 0:25:09dipped into the milk and sugar mix
0:25:09 > 0:25:11that's been slightly sweetened.
0:25:12 > 0:25:15And they poach away. It really is so simple.
0:25:15 > 0:25:17They look fantastic.
0:25:17 > 0:25:20There we go. We just poach them very, very gently.
0:25:20 > 0:25:22It mustn't boil. If it boils,
0:25:22 > 0:25:25- the egg white will puff up and then they'll collapse.- Right.
0:25:25 > 0:25:27So what would you recommend with this, Kate?
0:25:27 > 0:25:29It looks quite elegant.
0:25:29 > 0:25:33I would like an equally elegant drink to go with it.
0:25:33 > 0:25:37I think for that, there's only one choice, personally!
0:25:37 > 0:25:38What would that be?
0:25:38 > 0:25:40I would love to drink with this a champagne.
0:25:40 > 0:25:41Yes!
0:25:41 > 0:25:47Obviously, with champagne, naturally you think champagne, it's an aperitif, it's dry.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50But actually there's some fantastic demi-sec champagnes.
0:25:50 > 0:25:54They're a touch sweeter with a nice honey character.
0:25:54 > 0:25:56I think it would be a really nice match.
0:25:56 > 0:25:59If not a champagne, then perhaps a nice dessert wine, a Muscat,
0:25:59 > 0:26:02something nice and aromatic, nice and fragrant.
0:26:02 > 0:26:05A little bit of apricot-type character.
0:26:05 > 0:26:07Nothing too dominant that's going to overwhelm it,
0:26:07 > 0:26:10but you need that sweetness there
0:26:10 > 0:26:12to match the sweetness in the dessert.
0:26:12 > 0:26:14'After five minutes poaching in some milk and sugar,
0:26:14 > 0:26:18'remove the meringues and leave them to cool on a wire rack...'
0:26:18 > 0:26:21They should be firm but light.
0:26:21 > 0:26:23'..before drizzling with the caramel
0:26:23 > 0:26:25'and gently placing on the custard.'
0:26:25 > 0:26:29- CORK POPS - That's a sound I like!
0:26:30 > 0:26:33'The combination of textures makes this the perfect dessert.
0:26:33 > 0:26:36'The light and fluffy meringue, crunchy caramel
0:26:36 > 0:26:39'and creamy custard sauce. Delicious!'
0:26:39 > 0:26:42- You need to crack it.- Oh, I like it.
0:26:42 > 0:26:45- It's a good sharing dessert, isn't it?- Yes.- All get stuck in.
0:26:45 > 0:26:47- It is.- I like food like that.
0:26:47 > 0:26:49It's all about textures as well.
0:26:56 > 0:27:00That champagne works so well. It is so rich, it cleans the palate at the end.
0:27:00 > 0:27:03Cleans the mouth out. Makes it feel nice and fresh.
0:27:03 > 0:27:05I'm very pleased with that.
0:27:05 > 0:27:08I love the freshness that champagne brings to this.
0:27:08 > 0:27:11- It is a very sweet dessert. - It really is. Really is.
0:27:11 > 0:27:14I love the crunch on it, as well.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19- This is heavenly.- That's good to hear. I'm pleased.
0:27:22 > 0:27:24'The definition of comfort food
0:27:24 > 0:27:26'is food that's simply prepared
0:27:26 > 0:27:28'and gives a sense of wellbeing.
0:27:30 > 0:27:33'My mum's shepherd's pie made with leftover roast lamb
0:27:33 > 0:27:36'and her secret ingredient of tomato ketchup.
0:27:36 > 0:27:39'And the Isles Flottantes, a timeless French classic,
0:27:39 > 0:27:42'are the epitome of comfort food for me.'
0:27:42 > 0:27:47There's something about nostalgic food that I just love.
0:27:47 > 0:27:49Whether it's cooking it or eating it.
0:27:49 > 0:27:53And if I've inspired you to try to cook something that makes you feel good,
0:27:53 > 0:27:55then it makes me feel good!
0:27:57 > 0:28:01'Next time, in an Italian special,
0:28:01 > 0:28:05'pasta purist Angela Hartnett shows me how to make the perfect tagliatelle.'
0:28:06 > 0:28:09You're making it look so easy.
0:28:09 > 0:28:12Well, in my youth, I've made a fair bit.
0:28:13 > 0:28:19'And Antonio Carluccio shares his secrets about what makes Italian food so good.'
0:28:19 > 0:28:24You need passion, fantastic ingredients and a lot of confidence!
0:28:49 > 0:28:53Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd