0:00:02 > 0:00:05This is the age of reinvention. Everything is back...
0:00:06 > 0:00:10..'80s music, platform shoes, flares, tank tops
0:00:10 > 0:00:13and best of all, fantastic food and drink.
0:00:13 > 0:00:17This show is all about bringing back classic food and drink
0:00:17 > 0:00:19too good to be forgotten.
0:00:19 > 0:00:23We're going all out to dig out the best in comeback cuisine.
0:00:24 > 0:00:27'As part of BBC Two's food season,
0:00:27 > 0:00:29'we're cooking up a nostalgia-filled feast,
0:00:29 > 0:00:33'made with great ingredients that deserve a revival.
0:00:33 > 0:00:36'And who better to reminisce with than Raymond Blanc?
0:00:36 > 0:00:39'He always puts good taste above passing fads.'
0:00:39 > 0:00:40Hey, Chef!
0:00:40 > 0:00:43'He's making the case for a souffle,
0:00:43 > 0:00:45'made with a very unfashionable ingredient...'
0:00:45 > 0:00:49Semolina was one of my many fondest memories.
0:00:49 > 0:00:53I am so sorry for you, because obviously you spent your childhood
0:00:53 > 0:00:55having some terrible, bad food, OK?
0:00:55 > 0:00:56THEY LAUGH
0:00:56 > 0:00:59'..and the heat is on, for me to save an old favourite
0:00:59 > 0:01:01'from the history books.'
0:01:01 > 0:01:03It's the flavour of lamb, but more.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06It's a very cheap protein and absolutely delicious.
0:01:06 > 0:01:08'Chef Andy Bates unearths a wartime staple
0:01:08 > 0:01:10'that's fallen out of favour...'
0:01:10 > 0:01:12- Oh, it's very good, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:01:12 > 0:01:15'..while Joe Wadsack takes us back in time
0:01:15 > 0:01:16'with a crazy drinks match...'
0:01:16 > 0:01:18I think that would go quite well with the brain.
0:01:18 > 0:01:21It's the perfect comeback cuisine, isn't it, really?
0:01:21 > 0:01:25'..before we discover whose creation deserves a second chance.'
0:01:25 > 0:01:27Another four-star Michelin day.
0:01:27 > 0:01:28No less. Absolument.
0:01:29 > 0:01:31Welcome to Food & Drink.
0:01:34 > 0:01:36MUSIC: Superstition by Stevie Wonder
0:01:36 > 0:01:39'Just like with music, clothes and hair styles,
0:01:39 > 0:01:41'food fashions are constantly changing -
0:01:41 > 0:01:43'but style goes in cycles
0:01:43 > 0:01:45'and the old classics are back.'
0:01:48 > 0:01:50Never heard of him.
0:01:50 > 0:01:52'Nostalgia food is big business.
0:01:52 > 0:01:54'Sales of British groceries are growing
0:01:54 > 0:01:57'at twice the rate of their international competitors,
0:01:57 > 0:02:00'with retro brands leading the way.'
0:02:00 > 0:02:03A dozen fresh eggs, please. Thank you.
0:02:04 > 0:02:06Amazing.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08'So tonight, we're reviving old school recipes,
0:02:08 > 0:02:12'as I take on a chef with an OBE for his contribution to food.
0:02:14 > 0:02:16'It's my toughest challenge yet.'
0:02:19 > 0:02:23It's an honour to have the great chef Raymond Blanc in my kitchen.
0:02:23 > 0:02:24What are you cooking?
0:02:24 > 0:02:26What I'm going to do today is a beautiful dish, OK,
0:02:26 > 0:02:29which is really connected with my childhood, with my mum.
0:02:29 > 0:02:34Mum was a great cook and she would do a beautiful souffle of semolina,
0:02:34 > 0:02:36with baked apples within it.
0:02:36 > 0:02:38Wow, that sounds fantastic -
0:02:38 > 0:02:41and you think the Great British apple
0:02:41 > 0:02:43and semolina both need reviving?
0:02:43 > 0:02:46I think so. Most kids have got terrible views of semolina,
0:02:46 > 0:02:48but semolina is absolutely brilliant.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51Takes three minutes of your life to cook - plus, it's tasty.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53We need a revival of the British apple.
0:02:53 > 0:02:56I'm so sad when I go into supermarkets and barely see
0:02:56 > 0:02:58one or two British apples,
0:02:58 > 0:03:01when there's so many of them which are magnificent.
0:03:01 > 0:03:04'So it takes a Frenchman to champion the great British apple,
0:03:04 > 0:03:05'with a semolina souffle.
0:03:05 > 0:03:07'Touche, Monsieur Blanc.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10'This British boy is taking him on his own game,
0:03:10 > 0:03:13'with two classics from across the Channel.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16'Gratin with a turnip twist and a sauce gribiche
0:03:16 > 0:03:18'or posh tartare sauce,
0:03:18 > 0:03:22'to accompany my under-loved butcher's favourite, mutton -
0:03:22 > 0:03:24'and school dinner staple, cabbage.'
0:03:24 > 0:03:27This is a moment I've dreamt of for a very long time.
0:03:27 > 0:03:30I actually remember, there was a period
0:03:30 > 0:03:31when I first started being a chef.
0:03:31 > 0:03:34I was 18 years old and I wrote a letter to the Manoir,
0:03:34 > 0:03:38dreaming one day of being able to work with the great Raymond Blanc
0:03:38 > 0:03:40and I received a letter back from you, saying that
0:03:40 > 0:03:44you're not taking on any new commis chefs for at least 18 months
0:03:44 > 0:03:45and my heart was broken.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47Oh, I'm very, very sorry.
0:03:47 > 0:03:49So, for me, you being here today
0:03:49 > 0:03:52is making up for that letter coming 23 years ago.
0:03:52 > 0:03:53HE LAUGHS
0:03:53 > 0:03:56'But as I get my breadcrumb crust for my mutton ready,
0:03:56 > 0:04:00'I'm starting to realise that I should be careful what I wish for.'
0:04:00 > 0:04:03- OK, I need a bin. - At the end, at the end here.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06- Tom, can I have a bin, please? Here, Chef!- God, so slow!
0:04:06 > 0:04:10- There you go, there you go. Sorry, Chef.- I thought I was your guest.
0:04:10 > 0:04:12Anything you want, I will quite happily fetch for you,
0:04:12 > 0:04:14it's no problem at all.
0:04:14 > 0:04:16'I'm finally Raymond's trainee chef
0:04:16 > 0:04:19'and his passion is inspiring -
0:04:19 > 0:04:21in this case, for obscure varieties of apples.'
0:04:21 > 0:04:26I'm creating an orchard with 2,500 trees.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29All these apples, which are part of our heritage -
0:04:29 > 0:04:32- I should say your heritage...- You're reviving the British apple for me?
0:04:32 > 0:04:36Absolutely, but I want to show you, when you choose the wrong apple,
0:04:36 > 0:04:38how they will bake.
0:04:38 > 0:04:40They will collapse into a heap
0:04:40 > 0:04:44and you'll be miserable and then you'll be blaming me for it.
0:04:44 > 0:04:47I wouldn't blame you, Chef. Don't worry. We can blame the oven.
0:04:47 > 0:04:50'So, it's two bad apples up against two good ones -
0:04:50 > 0:04:53'a Blenheim Orange and Raymond's favourite.'
0:04:53 > 0:04:56The Chivers Delight - what a beautiful name.
0:04:56 > 0:04:591920 heritage British variety.
0:04:59 > 0:05:03'To stop them exploding, he cuts a steam vent in the top,
0:05:03 > 0:05:06'coats them in butter and rolls them in sugar.'
0:05:06 > 0:05:09So, is this a method you learned to cook from grandmother, or... ?
0:05:09 > 0:05:13- My mum. My mum would put it directly like that.- It looks beautiful.
0:05:13 > 0:05:16It almost looks like a Christmas tree decoration.
0:05:16 > 0:05:18Tres bien.
0:05:18 > 0:05:21What are you doing, Tom? You never tell me what you're doing.
0:05:21 > 0:05:24Yes, so these are mutton chops - like lamb chops, but mutton.
0:05:24 > 0:05:27- Are you a mutton fan? - Yes, it's very, very good.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30It's the flavour of lamb, but more - it's more intense,
0:05:30 > 0:05:31it's bigger, punchier...
0:05:31 > 0:05:34For home, we should use much more mutton,
0:05:34 > 0:05:37because it's a very cheap protein and absolutely delicious,
0:05:37 > 0:05:40so I'm very much looking forward to your dish.
0:05:40 > 0:05:42'No pressure, then!
0:05:42 > 0:05:44'Whilst my mutton chops rest in the fridge,
0:05:44 > 0:05:47'Raymond gets his apples in for their first bake
0:05:47 > 0:05:49'and he's heating milk to make his semolina,
0:05:49 > 0:05:52'but with two British blokes in their '40s tasting,
0:05:52 > 0:05:54'this could just be his downfall.'
0:05:54 > 0:05:56In this country, at my age,
0:05:56 > 0:05:59you associate semolina with school dinners -
0:05:59 > 0:06:01and that's not always the fondest memories,
0:06:01 > 0:06:02I have to be honest with you.
0:06:02 > 0:06:04I know. I'm so sorry for you, because obviously,
0:06:04 > 0:06:08you spent your childhood having some terrible, bad food, OK?
0:06:09 > 0:06:14For me, semolina was one of my many fondest memories.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18My mum would put raisins inside,
0:06:18 > 0:06:20she would break egg yolk inside and she was absolutely amazing.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22I have to be honest,
0:06:22 > 0:06:25- Mama Blanc sounds like she was an amazing chef.- An amazing woman, yes.
0:06:25 > 0:06:27'And in keeping with his mum's recipe,
0:06:27 > 0:06:29'Raymond is adding some lovely, rich egg yolks
0:06:29 > 0:06:31'and soaking his raisins in Calvados...'
0:06:31 > 0:06:33Voila - and one for the pot.
0:06:33 > 0:06:36'..classic French apple brandy.'
0:06:36 > 0:06:38Of course, I should've used British apple brandy.
0:06:38 > 0:06:41- Are we any good at making apple brandy?- Yeah, yeah.
0:06:41 > 0:06:42There's some excellent...
0:06:42 > 0:06:45- Especially in Kent, Sussex... - Somerset?
0:06:45 > 0:06:48- Somerset is absolutely amazing. - But you have to say it like...
0:06:48 > 0:06:51- WEST COUNTRY ACCENT:- Somerset. - Ah! Go away, you!
0:06:51 > 0:06:53Somerset and cider -
0:06:53 > 0:06:56otherwise no-one will understand what you're saying, Chef.
0:06:56 > 0:07:0040 years I've been here and still, people just manage
0:07:00 > 0:07:02to understand what I'm talking about.
0:07:02 > 0:07:04But I will never get that accent.
0:07:04 > 0:07:06'It just takes practice, Chef -
0:07:06 > 0:07:08'and few pints of cider helps, too.
0:07:08 > 0:07:12'Raymond's might be a recipe handed down from his mum,
0:07:12 > 0:07:13'but to go with my mutton,
0:07:13 > 0:07:16'I'm reviving a vegetable that fell out of fashion
0:07:16 > 0:07:18'way back in the 18th century,
0:07:18 > 0:07:21'when the potato arrived and stole the limelight.'
0:07:21 > 0:07:24Turnip's got that wonderful kind of peppery kick to it as well,
0:07:24 > 0:07:26- hasn't it?- Delicious.
0:07:26 > 0:07:28Actually, you know creamed horseradish -
0:07:28 > 0:07:31- when you get the jars of creamed horseradish?- Yeah?
0:07:31 > 0:07:35Most of the substance in that jar is actually turnip, not horseradish.
0:07:35 > 0:07:40It works very, very well with those strong, British flavours.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43'And it works perfectly with some lovely, rich double cream too.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47'Time to get my gratin into the oven and it's a straight swap,
0:07:47 > 0:07:49'as after just 20 minutes' baking,
0:07:49 > 0:07:51'Raymond's apples are ready to come out.'
0:07:51 > 0:07:53Got to be honest, they look lush.
0:07:53 > 0:07:56- The best one, of course... - They look incredible.
0:07:56 > 0:07:59- Those two are definitely the best. - That is the Chivers Delight.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02Absolutely amazing, perfect for baking and it's still firm - feel it.
0:08:02 > 0:08:05- Yes.- And the flavour is amazing.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07That one is completely out.
0:08:07 > 0:08:08Yeah, completely destroyed.
0:08:08 > 0:08:11This is definitely not a good baking apple, is it?
0:08:11 > 0:08:14From looking at this, I've learnt today, Chef. Thank you.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17'Whilst I get au fait with Raymond's apples,
0:08:17 > 0:08:19'Oliver Peyton is lifting the lid on an industry
0:08:19 > 0:08:21'where we were once the pick of the bunch,
0:08:21 > 0:08:24'making top-quality spirits.
0:08:24 > 0:08:27'Until recently, craft distilling had all but disappeared.
0:08:27 > 0:08:28'He's determined to find out
0:08:28 > 0:08:32'if it's a revival worth raising a glass to.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36'Inspired by an explosion of artisan spirit producers in the USA,
0:08:36 > 0:08:41'more than 20 new small-scale distilleries opened in 2014 alone.
0:08:41 > 0:08:43'And as with craft brewing,
0:08:43 > 0:08:47'smaller production runs mean a more unique and specialist product.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49'At one of Suffolk's oldest breweries,
0:08:49 > 0:08:53'Jonathan Adnams turns his beer into top-quality spirits.'
0:08:53 > 0:08:54You start off with beer.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56Does that mean every spirit you make tastes of beer?
0:08:56 > 0:08:59No, but our spirits do have a particular flavour,
0:08:59 > 0:09:03because what we're doing here is, we're making our spirits from malt.
0:09:03 > 0:09:04You can call it beer if you like -
0:09:04 > 0:09:07and you're concentrating that alcohol and in fact,
0:09:07 > 0:09:10separating some alcohols out that you don't want.
0:09:10 > 0:09:12'This beer is then pumped into the still...'
0:09:12 > 0:09:15- It got a bit of a Willy Wonka factor about it, hasn't it?- Sure does.
0:09:15 > 0:09:18'..where it's heated until the alcohol evaporates,
0:09:18 > 0:09:22'condenses and is collected as a nearly pure spirit.'
0:09:22 > 0:09:24And we're going to separate out the heads and the tails
0:09:24 > 0:09:27- and the hearts...- Whoa, whoa, whoa! "Heads and tails"? "Hearts?"
0:09:27 > 0:09:29Stop, stop! Keep it simple for me.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32Well, the heads and the tails are the alcohols
0:09:32 > 0:09:35that we don't want in our final spirit drink.
0:09:35 > 0:09:36What we want is the hearts,
0:09:36 > 0:09:39which in the case of vodka is virtually pure ethanol.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41- Happy days! - Would you like to try some?
0:09:41 > 0:09:43Ah, well... OK, then.
0:09:43 > 0:09:44HE LAUGHS
0:09:46 > 0:09:50OK, so what we've got here is ethanol at 96%,
0:09:50 > 0:09:53which we really don't want to drink, so I'm going to cut that...
0:09:53 > 0:09:55Speak for yourself.
0:09:55 > 0:09:56..with some water.
0:09:59 > 0:10:01Whoa-ho!
0:10:01 > 0:10:04- That'll put hairs on your chest. - It will indeed.
0:10:04 > 0:10:07'And by making small changes to the distilling process,
0:10:07 > 0:10:11'Jonathan can make everything from vodka and gin, whisky,
0:10:11 > 0:10:14'absinthe and even orange liqueur.
0:10:14 > 0:10:16'Impressive, but does this variety mean
0:10:16 > 0:10:20'he risks compromising on each drink's individual taste?
0:10:20 > 0:10:22'I guess there's only one way to find out.
0:10:22 > 0:10:24'It's a hard life.'
0:10:24 > 0:10:26I'm sweating already.
0:10:26 > 0:10:28This looks very dangerous to me.
0:10:28 > 0:10:30'First up, the vodka.'
0:10:31 > 0:10:3548% alcohol, so that's quite a strong vodka.
0:10:35 > 0:10:36Yeah, really?
0:10:36 > 0:10:39After you get over the strength, it's quite creamy,
0:10:39 > 0:10:41there's quite a smoothness to it there. So yeah, I really like that.
0:10:41 > 0:10:44- Good.- 'Next, a prize-winning gin.'
0:10:44 > 0:10:48This has got an amazing sense of balance to it. Loads of very...
0:10:48 > 0:10:49I think, quite delicate flavours.
0:10:49 > 0:10:51I could definitely knock a few of those back.
0:10:51 > 0:10:52Ha-ha!
0:10:52 > 0:10:56'And finally, red absinthe, coloured with hibiscus leaves.'
0:10:56 > 0:10:58I'm slightly concerned here.
0:10:58 > 0:11:00I'm going to start hallucinating after I drink this. Cheers.
0:11:00 > 0:11:01Cheers, anyway.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08Wow, that's bursting with flavour.
0:11:08 > 0:11:11It's a much more rounded flavour than I'm used to from absinthe, you know?
0:11:11 > 0:11:14A lot of absinthe is a little bit rougher, isn't it?
0:11:14 > 0:11:17Yeah. We don't have a rule book to be governed by
0:11:17 > 0:11:20and so, we've been trying to walk our own path.
0:11:20 > 0:11:23'And that's where craft distilling really comes into its own.
0:11:23 > 0:11:26'The freedom to be creative with flavours and balance
0:11:26 > 0:11:29'gives distillers like Jonathan an edge
0:11:29 > 0:11:31'over their big commercial competitors.'
0:11:32 > 0:11:34MUSIC: It's Not Unusual by Tom Jones
0:11:34 > 0:11:37'From one top-quality tipple to our very own whirlwind of wine.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39'Bring it on, Joe!'
0:11:39 > 0:11:41There's nothing cooler than retro, don't forget.
0:11:41 > 0:11:43Nothing cooler than retro.
0:11:43 > 0:11:46'Today, he's digging out a selection of classic drinks
0:11:46 > 0:11:48'to see if they really should be revived.'
0:11:48 > 0:11:50HE LAUGHS
0:11:50 > 0:11:53- A Blue Nun?- Can I just point out that you have Chef Raymond Blanc here
0:11:53 > 0:11:54and you've just put...
0:11:54 > 0:11:58That is the worst possible wine ever created in the world, ever -
0:11:58 > 0:12:03and in the '70s, that one used to be the most popular in Great Britain.
0:12:03 > 0:12:06- Is it a different wine now? - It's a different wine.
0:12:06 > 0:12:09It's nearly 100 years old. So this is 30% Riesling now,
0:12:09 > 0:12:11which is a major step up to where it was back in the day -
0:12:11 > 0:12:13and it's a lot less sweet.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15For me, I don't like it.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18- To me, a great taste is sour-sweet... - There's a tension...
0:12:18 > 0:12:21There's a tension. I feel I'm not warming up to it.
0:12:21 > 0:12:25There are three words here - fresh, crisp and fruity -
0:12:25 > 0:12:27and it is all of those things.
0:12:27 > 0:12:30It's fresh, crisp and fruity.
0:12:30 > 0:12:31For 5.99, it's very hard to find
0:12:31 > 0:12:33any dry whites that are any more interesting than that.
0:12:33 > 0:12:36I think this is a better drink than it used to be.
0:12:36 > 0:12:37- The bottle is nice. - You're a sweet guy, Tom.
0:12:37 > 0:12:39THEY LAUGH
0:12:39 > 0:12:42'That one might not make a comeback, then.
0:12:42 > 0:12:45'So Joe's going even more retro.'
0:12:45 > 0:12:47- Asti.- Asti, yeah?- Asti.
0:12:47 > 0:12:50I remember this being sold as a classy drink -
0:12:50 > 0:12:52as an alternative to champagne, I suppose?
0:12:52 > 0:12:54I think it was, back in the day, to be honest.
0:12:54 > 0:12:56Have a little taste of that.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58Now, it's only 7.5% alcohol,
0:12:58 > 0:13:01- which is actually the trick to why I think it's very nice.- Oh, really?
0:13:01 > 0:13:03It comes from Piedmont,
0:13:03 > 0:13:06which is the most high production region in Italy
0:13:06 > 0:13:08and 75% of the entire production
0:13:08 > 0:13:10is run by Germans.
0:13:10 > 0:13:13So they send Blue Nun across the world
0:13:13 > 0:13:14- and then import Asti?- Yeah!
0:13:14 > 0:13:19I think it drinks very well. It's got this lovely Muscat grape behind.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22- It is there, that's what I like. - I'm not a massive fan.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24It's almost like an elderflower cordial,
0:13:24 > 0:13:27with lemonade and added sugar and it's very, very sweet.
0:13:27 > 0:13:32The thing is, at 7.99, it's extremely high-quality winemaking.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34It actually goes really well with desserts, like fruit puddings,
0:13:34 > 0:13:36- fruitcakes...- Yeah, it could go.
0:13:36 > 0:13:38That kind of thing, it works terrifically well.
0:13:38 > 0:13:40In a nutshell, if you had to bring one back,
0:13:40 > 0:13:43make it really, really popular again - which one would it be?
0:13:43 > 0:13:45I would go for that one, definitely. Not the Blue Nun.
0:13:45 > 0:13:48I would go Blue Nun, because the bottle is cool.
0:13:48 > 0:13:50'One vote each for Joe's drinks,
0:13:50 > 0:13:52'but I've got a meaty taste test
0:13:52 > 0:13:54'that pushes "comeback" to its limits.'
0:13:54 > 0:13:57Let me just go to the pantry. I have something for you.
0:13:57 > 0:13:59It may just be of interest.
0:13:59 > 0:14:02We have here three foods
0:14:02 > 0:14:04that have fallen out of fashion.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07'Nose to tail is to be a key part of our diets,
0:14:07 > 0:14:10'but will offal ever really be popular again?'
0:14:10 > 0:14:11Can you tell me what it is?
0:14:11 > 0:14:14- It's ox heart?- Not ox heart, but lamb's heart.
0:14:14 > 0:14:17Absolutely delicious. Really delicious.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19Heart is popular in France?
0:14:19 > 0:14:21Yeah, we've eaten heart.
0:14:21 > 0:14:24As you know, the French have eaten about everything on Earth.
0:14:24 > 0:14:26THEY LAUGH
0:14:26 > 0:14:27That's true.
0:14:27 > 0:14:30- OK, Chef Raymond's gone for the second piece.- OK...
0:14:30 > 0:14:32Have a little bit.
0:14:32 > 0:14:34Tastes a little bit like kidney?
0:14:34 > 0:14:36- Lungs?- No, not lungs.- Is it...
0:14:36 > 0:14:39It is further south than that.
0:14:39 > 0:14:40Am I eating a testicle?
0:14:40 > 0:14:43You are eating a testicle. Yeah, this came from a lamb.
0:14:43 > 0:14:47This is the first time I've tasted the testicles of a lamb.
0:14:47 > 0:14:49- They are delicious. - Well, I'm surprised.
0:14:49 > 0:14:53OK, and the last piece. Breadcrumbs, deep-fried...
0:14:53 > 0:14:55- The brains.- It is the brain, it's lamb's brain.
0:14:55 > 0:14:58- Completely stunning, yeah. - Really?- Yeah, lamb's brain.
0:14:58 > 0:15:01Soft in the middle and then crunchy on the outside. Very tasty.
0:15:01 > 0:15:05- Well, I never!- Voila.- I've always been nervous about eating brain, never tried it before.
0:15:05 > 0:15:07They're all delicious. I'm really surprised. I can't believe
0:15:07 > 0:15:09how much flavour there is on the plate of food.
0:15:09 > 0:15:12- So you're a big fan of bringing these back?- Yeah, bring them back.
0:15:12 > 0:15:15So maybe we shouldn't say what it is, really. Just enjoy it.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17It's the perfect comeback cuisine, isn't it, really?
0:15:17 > 0:15:19I would prefer my apple souffle.
0:15:19 > 0:15:21'I think I'm with you there, Chef.
0:15:21 > 0:15:24'And Raymond's whipping up a frenzy to get air into his eggs,
0:15:24 > 0:15:26'so his souffle rises perfectly.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29'Not sure why he's trying to bring back manual labour, though.'
0:15:29 > 0:15:32I have got a machine, if you need it, Chef.
0:15:33 > 0:15:35I find everything so magical, you know?
0:15:35 > 0:15:38To see this egg white form up
0:15:38 > 0:15:40and bring these billions of bubbles of air inside...
0:15:40 > 0:15:44I think it's beautiful and I like a bit of exercise as well,
0:15:44 > 0:15:46- to keep me fit. - Yeah, to keep you fit.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49A little bit of egg white exercise.
0:15:49 > 0:15:51'And once the eggs reach the right consistency...'
0:15:51 > 0:15:53Voila.
0:15:53 > 0:15:54Yes, that's beautiful.
0:15:54 > 0:15:57'..Raymond combines it with his semolina.'
0:15:58 > 0:16:02That whole souffle takes about one third to lighten the base.
0:16:02 > 0:16:04If you try to put all of them together,
0:16:04 > 0:16:06you will lose a lot of lifting power.
0:16:09 > 0:16:12'Before you know it, he's ready to throw his apples into the mix -
0:16:12 > 0:16:13'not literally, obviously.'
0:16:15 > 0:16:17So, just a little bit of icing sugar,
0:16:17 > 0:16:21to create a crust on both the apples and the souffle.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23Amazing. Well, this is a dream come true for me,
0:16:23 > 0:16:25seeing a master at work.
0:16:26 > 0:16:30'Time for my sauce gribiche, which is kind of like tartare sauce,
0:16:30 > 0:16:33'but for meat - and starts with a base of grated duck eggs.'
0:16:36 > 0:16:38That's a great, classic sauce really.
0:16:38 > 0:16:42Wonderful textures inside the capers, the gherkins, the vinegar, you know?
0:16:42 > 0:16:43All that is so alive.
0:16:43 > 0:16:46'Then it's just finished off with mustard powder,
0:16:46 > 0:16:48'paprika and olive oil.
0:16:48 > 0:16:50'We've been in love with French cooking for years,
0:16:50 > 0:16:53'but finally, we're starting to get some affection back.'
0:16:53 > 0:16:56The French now are discovering new British dishes, like crumble.
0:16:56 > 0:16:58- The whole of France is crumbling at the moment.- Really?
0:16:58 > 0:17:01The whole of France is crumbling? In a good way?
0:17:01 > 0:17:03- I think it's quite lovely, as well...- For me,
0:17:03 > 0:17:06crumble is one of the greatest British childhood favourites -
0:17:06 > 0:17:07something that we absolutely love.
0:17:07 > 0:17:09MUSIC: Superfly by Curtis Mayfield
0:17:09 > 0:17:11'And finally, it's time to get
0:17:11 > 0:17:15'Raymond's apple and semolina souffle in the oven to bake.'
0:17:15 > 0:17:20My mama, she used to do a tiny dash of butter on the top of the apples.
0:17:20 > 0:17:22Voila. C'est bien.
0:17:22 > 0:17:24So, when we actually eat this, Chef,
0:17:24 > 0:17:27will you be 100% honest with me
0:17:27 > 0:17:29and tell me if it was as good as your mum's?
0:17:29 > 0:17:32No food never tastes better than it is when it's cooked at home.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36- Remember that, Tom.- Nothing as good as your mum's roast dinner, is it?
0:17:36 > 0:17:39'And Mama Blanc's passionate about one meet in particular,
0:17:39 > 0:17:42'that we Brits are fallen out of love with.'
0:17:42 > 0:17:46I kept rabbits in cages...
0:17:46 > 0:17:48and every Sunday, we would have rabbit.
0:17:48 > 0:17:51I know, because I was the one to kill it...
0:17:51 > 0:17:55and peel it, chop it and give it to my mum, who would cook it.
0:17:55 > 0:17:59And I remember, my mum, still today, sitting at the table,
0:17:59 > 0:18:01still having tears in her eyes
0:18:01 > 0:18:03and a smile on her face,
0:18:03 > 0:18:06because she hated the idea of killing the rabbit,
0:18:06 > 0:18:09but she also loved the rabbit flesh.
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- Typical French story. - Yeah, yeah -
0:18:11 > 0:18:15hated the idea of killing it, but loved the idea of cooking it!
0:18:15 > 0:18:18'We used to eat rabbit like we now eat chicken in this country -
0:18:18 > 0:18:21'and Chef Andy Bates wants to get to the bottom of where
0:18:21 > 0:18:23'it all went wrong for the British bunny.'
0:18:23 > 0:18:26There's an abundant supply of fresh, wild meat
0:18:26 > 0:18:28that's just not being used...
0:18:29 > 0:18:30..rabbit.
0:18:30 > 0:18:32They're everywhere
0:18:32 > 0:18:34and those bunnies, they just keep on breeding.
0:18:35 > 0:18:38We couldn't get enough of rabbit during the war.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41It wasn't rationed and it was delicious,
0:18:41 > 0:18:42but when life got back to normal,
0:18:42 > 0:18:46rabbit was a reminder of hard times and our tastes changed.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49Chef Tim Adams has been shooting and cooking wild rabbit for years -
0:18:49 > 0:18:52and he's determined to see it back on our dinner plates.
0:18:52 > 0:18:55What is it that's so good about eating rabbit?
0:18:55 > 0:18:58Well, in a nutshell - very, very, very tasty,
0:18:58 > 0:19:01very healthy food to eat - very low in fat, high in vitamins...
0:19:01 > 0:19:02What could be better than that?
0:19:02 > 0:19:05There's no shortage of rabbit in the UK, that's for sure.
0:19:05 > 0:19:08A conservative estimate would be about 40 million individuals.
0:19:08 > 0:19:11People are paying money to control rabbits as pests.
0:19:11 > 0:19:14That meat should be used - it's criminal to waste it.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17Before you get too excited,
0:19:17 > 0:19:20I'm not suggesting you go out there and shoot your own rabbits.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22Butchers and supermarkets stock it
0:19:22 > 0:19:25and Tim is determined to show me what I've been missing out on.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30Rabbit - lagomorph - four-legged animal, same as a lamb,
0:19:30 > 0:19:33same as a cow, same as a pig, so it has all those same body parts.
0:19:33 > 0:19:35You can treat it in a similar way.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38So there's actually quite a lot of meat on it, isn't there?
0:19:38 > 0:19:40Yeah, I mean, there's no reason that a medium-sized rabbit
0:19:40 > 0:19:43shouldn't feed two to three people. And it's cheap, too.
0:19:43 > 0:19:44Three or four pounds,
0:19:44 > 0:19:47even for an oven-ready rabbit from the butcher's shop.
0:19:47 > 0:19:48Tim, what are we going to cook today?
0:19:48 > 0:19:50Very, very quick little pasta dish.
0:19:50 > 0:19:53Tim, I think you're showing a really good method of just...
0:19:53 > 0:19:56no fuss, simple, delicious cooking, mate.
0:19:56 > 0:19:58Start with good ingredients,
0:19:58 > 0:20:00you're in a winning situation straightaway, aren't you?
0:20:00 > 0:20:01A few chilli flakes...
0:20:01 > 0:20:04They're quite brutal, these ones, so I won't go too mad.
0:20:04 > 0:20:06And then, a little bit of that smoked paprika.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08So, a good tip if you're buying rabbits -
0:20:08 > 0:20:10don't necessarily go for the biggest one.
0:20:10 > 0:20:12A general rule of thumb - the younger the rabbit,
0:20:12 > 0:20:14the more tender and sweeter and then, as you go up,
0:20:14 > 0:20:16they get bigger and older,
0:20:16 > 0:20:18the tougher they become and the more flavoursome.
0:20:18 > 0:20:21So, this is from the leg? So, does it cook like a chicken thigh?
0:20:21 > 0:20:23Yeah, it's a really good comparison to draw, actually.
0:20:23 > 0:20:26The only difference is, there's hardly any fat.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30- In with the mushrooms?- Definitely. - Look at them.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33So, the rabbit's been rested and it's just cooked now, isn't it?
0:20:33 > 0:20:35Yeah, right on the brink, but that's perfect,
0:20:35 > 0:20:38because when we toss it through the hot dish with the mushrooms and the pasta,
0:20:38 > 0:20:41- that's going to finish off beautifully.- God, it smells so good.
0:20:41 > 0:20:45And the great thing with simple food like this is, there's no faffing about, is there?
0:20:45 > 0:20:47We can just chuck it straight in the bowl, easy-peasy.
0:20:47 > 0:20:50'So, rabbit pasta - it's a new one on me. Time to taste.'
0:20:50 > 0:20:51Tim, bon appetit.
0:20:54 > 0:20:57- Oh, it's very good, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:20:57 > 0:20:59As long as you're happy, I'm happy.
0:20:59 > 0:21:00You've absolutely nailed it.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03This whole perception that wild rabbit is tough,
0:21:03 > 0:21:05overpoweringly-strong...
0:21:05 > 0:21:08Not at all, when you cook it like this.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10- And none of this is going to waste, right?- No, no! Tuck in!
0:21:13 > 0:21:16'While Raymond's souffle is gently rising in the oven,
0:21:16 > 0:21:19'it's time I got my breaded mutton chops on to fry.
0:21:19 > 0:21:22'But cooking isn't usually a spectator sport.'
0:21:22 > 0:21:25It's not easy dish, and I feel a little bit more under pressure
0:21:25 > 0:21:28with the fact that you're stood opposite and looking at me.
0:21:28 > 0:21:30What you're doing is very tricky.
0:21:30 > 0:21:33Because of course, breadcrumbs are going to colour.
0:21:33 > 0:21:35Will they colour before the mutton is cooked?
0:21:35 > 0:21:38And you're doing it exactly right, because it feels right.
0:21:38 > 0:21:40You can hear it, it's just right.
0:21:40 > 0:21:44It's a gentle, gentle searing, not fast.
0:21:44 > 0:21:46Ah, the softening of the butter...
0:21:46 > 0:21:48You could be French, you know, Tom?
0:21:48 > 0:21:50- I know, yeah!- There's a bit of French in you.
0:21:50 > 0:21:53I think you must come from Normandy.
0:21:53 > 0:21:57- Just a cross...- I will go for Normandy. I'm quite happy with that.
0:21:57 > 0:22:00For me, French cuisine is the greatest in the world -
0:22:00 > 0:22:03and I'm not just saying that because you're there. So, I'm almost ready.
0:22:03 > 0:22:04Your souffle's almost ready?
0:22:04 > 0:22:08Yeah, ready in exactly 1 minute and 47 seconds.
0:22:08 > 0:22:11'Who said cooking isn't an exact science?
0:22:11 > 0:22:12'Time to get my cabbage going -
0:22:12 > 0:22:14'and to take it away from
0:22:14 > 0:22:16'the overcooked school dinner mush I remember,
0:22:16 > 0:22:20'I'm frying mine off in onions, garlic and some modern trimmings.
0:22:20 > 0:22:23- 'And just in time, too.'- If it's undercooked, it will collapse.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25If it's overcooked, it will collapse.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28If it's perfectly cooked, it will stay at least five minutes.
0:22:28 > 0:22:31OK, so we have five minutes to get this served up?
0:22:31 > 0:22:33- OK.- I'm showing off a bit here.
0:22:33 > 0:22:34Allez, Monsieur!
0:22:34 > 0:22:36That looks amazing.
0:22:36 > 0:22:38Lovely. Mama Blanc would be proud.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40Mama Blanc would be proud.
0:22:40 > 0:22:44My mum is 92 years of age and still, today she is very active.
0:22:44 > 0:22:48Actually, in the kitchen, that's her kitchen and I know it.
0:22:48 > 0:22:50- I think it looks fantastic. - Thank you, Tom. Thank you very much.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53I'll pass that on to my mum, definitely.
0:22:53 > 0:22:55'Time to serve up.
0:22:55 > 0:22:57'My comeback dish revives three classic foods -
0:22:57 > 0:22:59'mutton, cabbage and turnips -
0:22:59 > 0:23:01'and all that's left is to
0:23:01 > 0:23:05'put a spoonful of my sauce gribiche on the side and I'm ready.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08'Let's hope Judge Joe has brought his appetite with him.'
0:23:08 > 0:23:10Voila.
0:23:10 > 0:23:11Looks stunning, stunning.
0:23:11 > 0:23:14I think we're going to go with dessert first,
0:23:14 > 0:23:16just because it's a souffle and its Mama Blanc's souffle.
0:23:16 > 0:23:19The smell coming from that is fantastic.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22Voila. That's for you.
0:23:22 > 0:23:24Look at me. Look at me, look at you.
0:23:24 > 0:23:27So who needs the big one, who needs the small one?
0:23:27 > 0:23:29Wow, that apple is phenomenal.
0:23:29 > 0:23:31The Chivers Delight, for me, is the best.
0:23:31 > 0:23:35- You know what is missing here, guys? - Custard?- Give me some custard.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38Where's your custard, Tom? Can't believe it!
0:23:38 > 0:23:39Sorry, Chef.
0:23:39 > 0:23:41Well, I think that's fantastic.
0:23:41 > 0:23:44The way the souffle and the apple almost become the same texture.
0:23:44 > 0:23:45But it's amazing - inside the apple,
0:23:45 > 0:23:48it's got a sweet, tangy succulence.
0:23:48 > 0:23:50Look at these colours, look at these colours...
0:23:50 > 0:23:53- It's like a tequila sunrise. - ..how beautiful it is.
0:23:53 > 0:23:55Now, I've got something interesting to go this.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58In keeping with the whole retro kind of feel of the show,
0:23:58 > 0:24:01I'm hoping a can of Merrydown cider.
0:24:01 > 0:24:04Principally, the most important reason why I've chosen it today -
0:24:04 > 0:24:05apart from the fact it was
0:24:05 > 0:24:08what I drank with my girlfriend at university -
0:24:08 > 0:24:10is it's made from English eating apples.
0:24:10 > 0:24:13It's not made from cider apples, so it has that taste.
0:24:13 > 0:24:15We invite Raymond Blanc over to our pad
0:24:15 > 0:24:18and you give him Blue Nun, Asti and a can of cider?
0:24:18 > 0:24:19A can of Merrydown!
0:24:19 > 0:24:22I'm not easily offended, OK? So just drink your cider.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27- How much do you pay for that? - This is £2 a can.
0:24:27 > 0:24:31It's a lot of money for me, for very little flavour.
0:24:31 > 0:24:32Well, I think this is much, much better
0:24:32 > 0:24:35than your average session-drinking cider. And actually,
0:24:35 > 0:24:37there's a nice story behind this. It came from East Sussex.
0:24:37 > 0:24:39It was three guys who learnt to make wine
0:24:39 > 0:24:42when they were prisoners of war in the Second World War.
0:24:42 > 0:24:45In 1946, they came back and they started to make apple wine.
0:24:45 > 0:24:47So, this was one of the first ciders in England
0:24:47 > 0:24:50that was slightly stronger than the others -
0:24:50 > 0:24:53- there were trying to make something a bit special.- What strength is it?
0:24:53 > 0:24:56No, no, I love your cider. The story is amazing, I'm buying into it...
0:24:56 > 0:24:57THEY LAUGH
0:24:57 > 0:24:59Let's all drink to those three blokes, OK?
0:24:59 > 0:25:02- It's 6%, so it's a little bit stronger.- Three lovely old men.
0:25:02 > 0:25:05'A good story saves the day. Nice work, Joe.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08'Next, my breaded mutton, cabbage and turnip gratin.
0:25:08 > 0:25:10'Anyone know a good turnip story?'
0:25:10 > 0:25:12Am I allowed to pick it up and eat it by the stick?
0:25:12 > 0:25:15- Of course you are, like a caveman. - Well, kind of.
0:25:15 > 0:25:18- Oh, wow.- The turnips are amazing.
0:25:18 > 0:25:20Really, the turnip gives a lovely bittersweet flavour.
0:25:20 > 0:25:23- It's really stunning.- We used to think the turnips aren't nice.
0:25:23 > 0:25:26When you went to school, it was all horribly over-stewed.
0:25:26 > 0:25:30This is so far away from all of that. It's beautiful and velvety.
0:25:30 > 0:25:34Oh, no. Here is the main... A piece de resistance.
0:25:34 > 0:25:35Let's see if you like the mutton.
0:25:38 > 0:25:41That's perfectly cooked, OK? You don't want something medium rare.
0:25:41 > 0:25:43No, mutton mustn't be overcooked.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48- It's lovely. It's very lovely. - Can you taste the difference?
0:25:48 > 0:25:51- Does it taste like lamb, but more? - In a really good way, I think.
0:25:51 > 0:25:54I mean, I've always been a bit scared of really strong-tasting lamb.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57The one thing I would say - lamb, beautiful spring lamb
0:25:57 > 0:25:59is fantastic, but in terms of flavour-wise,
0:25:59 > 0:26:01this is bigger and stronger.
0:26:01 > 0:26:03The cabbage is essential here, isn't it?
0:26:03 > 0:26:06It's crunchy, it's lively, it's full of flavour.
0:26:06 > 0:26:08That's almost my favourite bit.
0:26:08 > 0:26:12Most importantly to me, what do you make of the sauce gribiche?
0:26:12 > 0:26:13Stunning. Absolutely...
0:26:13 > 0:26:16I've done an Escoffier classic for a great French chef
0:26:16 > 0:26:18- and he said "stunning". - How great is that?
0:26:18 > 0:26:20I can go home with my head held high.
0:26:20 > 0:26:23There's one thing missing though, I reckon, that could improve it.
0:26:23 > 0:26:27- Custard?- A nice glass of red. - Ah, a nice glass of red!
0:26:27 > 0:26:29There was a time I remember when I was growing up,
0:26:29 > 0:26:31when the first bottle of wine on any menu - in a bistro,
0:26:31 > 0:26:34in a pub or a restaurant - would be an ordinary claret.
0:26:34 > 0:26:37A Bordeaux red, basically. I found one which I think is amazing.
0:26:37 > 0:26:39Just 7.99 from a wine merchant.
0:26:39 > 0:26:41I wouldn't say it's that easy to find -
0:26:41 > 0:26:44a decent bottle of Bordeaux under a tenner anywhere.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46But what do you think?
0:26:46 > 0:26:49That's a good smell. Good colour, good scent.
0:26:49 > 0:26:52There's a lot going on in there. This wine is now seven years old.
0:26:52 > 0:26:54So, it's got flavour.
0:26:54 > 0:26:56The flavours are nicely rounded.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59It's jammy as well, it's not oakey, it's not... It's nicely made.
0:26:59 > 0:27:02Most cheap Bordeaux is actually Merlot-dominated.
0:27:02 > 0:27:06This is about 80% Merlot and Merlot is a great variety for me.
0:27:06 > 0:27:09When it gets mature, it smells and tastes a bit like lamb.
0:27:09 > 0:27:12There's a lamb-iness to it, there's meatiness to it,
0:27:12 > 0:27:13which works so well with mutton.
0:27:13 > 0:27:15It's a lovely wine.
0:27:15 > 0:27:19It's powerful on the smell, really big nose. It's fantastic.
0:27:19 > 0:27:21So what I've done is, I've put other wines that I've found,
0:27:21 > 0:27:24which I think are very good, that are available all over the country
0:27:24 > 0:27:25on the Food & Drink website.
0:27:25 > 0:27:30'And you can have your say online, by voting for your favourite recipe.
0:27:30 > 0:27:33'And you'll find all the recipes from this series, too.'
0:27:33 > 0:27:35Now, this is the key question, Joe.
0:27:35 > 0:27:37Which are you going to choose?
0:27:37 > 0:27:39Are you going to choose the mutton with the cabbage
0:27:39 > 0:27:41and the sauce gribiche,
0:27:41 > 0:27:44or Mama Blanc's semolina souffle?
0:27:44 > 0:27:46- No pressure!- With a can of cider?
0:27:46 > 0:27:48Tom, if you're chucking the cider in,
0:27:48 > 0:27:50I might give it to Chef Raymond Blanc.
0:27:50 > 0:27:52It is bathed in history, let's be honest.
0:27:52 > 0:27:53HE LAUGHS
0:27:53 > 0:27:56Chef, congratulations. Congratulations.
0:27:56 > 0:27:58Another four-star Michelin day.
0:27:58 > 0:27:59No less. Absolument.
0:27:59 > 0:28:03Now, there's no such thing as "an unfashionable ingredient" -
0:28:03 > 0:28:05just food that's waiting to be rediscovered.
0:28:05 > 0:28:10If it was once flavour of the month, that's because it's delicious.
0:28:10 > 0:28:13OK, shall we have the cheese now? Where's the cheese?
0:28:13 > 0:28:14THEY LAUGH
0:28:14 > 0:28:17'Next time, it's all about trying something new,
0:28:17 > 0:28:19'but Glynn Purnell nearly loses his mind...'
0:28:19 > 0:28:22Have you seen the size of the brain on this cauliflower?
0:28:22 > 0:28:24'..when he puts his brand-new veggie feast
0:28:24 > 0:28:26'up against my cutting-edge lamb.'
0:28:26 > 0:28:29All right... THEY LAUGH
0:28:29 > 0:28:32'..and our creativity threatens to get out of hand.'
0:28:32 > 0:28:34We've created a monster.