0:00:02 > 0:00:07- We're here to put Britain back on the food map.- To save fantastic British produce from extinction.
0:00:07 > 0:00:12- But we need your help. - Essential ingredients that have been here for centuries...
0:00:12 > 0:00:14Are in danger of disappearing...
0:00:14 > 0:00:15Forever!
0:00:15 > 0:00:20Together, we want everyone to get back to British culinary basics...
0:00:20 > 0:00:24- And help us to revive our fabulous... - Magnificent...
0:00:24 > 0:00:26- Mouth-watering...- Unique...
0:00:26 > 0:00:29And utterly delicious food heritage.
0:00:29 > 0:00:31Great British Food Revival is back!
0:01:09 > 0:01:12It's one ingredient we seem to take for granted
0:01:12 > 0:01:15and it's used mainly in all types of cooking.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18As a nation, we eat 11 billion of them every year -
0:01:18 > 0:01:23that's 182 per person - but mainly one variety.
0:01:23 > 0:01:27Because, for the last 100 years, we've seen a decline in choice,
0:01:27 > 0:01:30so I'm James Martin and I'll hopefully reignite your passion
0:01:30 > 0:01:34and find out the best of all of the great British eggs.
0:01:34 > 0:01:38On my campaign to revive other types of British eggs,
0:01:38 > 0:01:42I'll be meeting farmers who are as passionate about eggs as I am.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- All our little girls. - You're a busy parent if this is all your little girls!
0:01:46 > 0:01:50'I'll get vocal about our seldom-used great British quail eggs...'
0:01:50 > 0:01:53- A lot of noise comes out of these little things.- Oh, yes!
0:01:53 > 0:01:57'..and best of all, I'll be sharing my all-time favourite ways to cook
0:01:57 > 0:02:00'with these neglected little beauties...' Oh, oh!
0:02:00 > 0:02:04'..including my melt-in-the-mouth strawberry sponge cake made with duck eggs.'
0:02:04 > 0:02:07If there's Heaven, this is it. It's right here, right now.
0:02:10 > 0:02:15I'm a pastry chef and I absolutely adore eggs
0:02:15 > 0:02:17in all shapes and sizes.
0:02:17 > 0:02:18Eggs have got to be one ingredient
0:02:18 > 0:02:21that we really do take for granted in cooking.
0:02:21 > 0:02:24We, of course, use hen's eggs all over the place in our food.
0:02:24 > 0:02:28But if you venture a little further afield, and go for duck and quail,
0:02:28 > 0:02:30the flavour is so much better.
0:02:30 > 0:02:33Duck and quail's eggs were once an important part
0:02:33 > 0:02:36of our diet, gorged on by Henry VIII and revered by Mrs Beeton.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40But ask anybody what kind of eggs they eat nowadays, you only get one answer.
0:02:40 > 0:02:42- Hen's eggs.- Hen's eggs.
0:02:42 > 0:02:46- What other kind of eggs are there? - Never bought duck or quail eggs.
0:02:46 > 0:02:48They're probably nice, I don't know.
0:02:50 > 0:02:56They're more than quite nice, they're delicious and are starting to reappear in our supermarkets.
0:02:56 > 0:03:01I've come to Fakenham in Norfolk to begin my campaign to convince you
0:03:01 > 0:03:04to give alternative eggs a go and I'm starting with duck eggs.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07Really, my memory of duck eggs in particular
0:03:07 > 0:03:10comes from when I was training in France.
0:03:10 > 0:03:12They used to have duck eggs on the menu
0:03:12 > 0:03:17more than hen's eggs. I remember the salad, salade de gesiers,
0:03:17 > 0:03:20which you would never have on the menu in the UK
0:03:20 > 0:03:24or, if you put it on the menu, you're pretty brave as a chef, cos nobody would want it.
0:03:24 > 0:03:26It's a salad of duck gizzards,
0:03:26 > 0:03:31and the duck gizzards came in a tin and they came in a tin of duck fat,
0:03:31 > 0:03:33and they confited the gizzards, and you served that
0:03:33 > 0:03:36as a salad of crispy bacon, the warm gizzards,
0:03:36 > 0:03:40and this sort of poached and pan-fried duck egg,
0:03:40 > 0:03:45and the flavour of the duck egg was something very different to the hen's eggs that I'd had as a kid.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47Just the flavour, the richness,
0:03:47 > 0:03:51the butteriness and the fattiness of the whole egg.
0:03:51 > 0:03:53'But it would appear I'm in the minority.
0:03:53 > 0:03:57'Here in the UK, we buy just over 10 million duck eggs a year
0:03:57 > 0:04:01'compared to a massive 11 billion hen's eggs.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04'It's a depressing figure, but hasn't put off poultry farmer
0:04:04 > 0:04:07'David Perowne, who's recently branched out into duck eggs.'
0:04:07 > 0:04:11So you started with 50 ducks? There's more than 50 here!
0:04:11 > 0:04:14- We've got about 300 here.- Right. - We bought them as ducklings,
0:04:14 > 0:04:17vaccinate them as we go, then they come in to lay.
0:04:17 > 0:04:20And what's the main difference between, say,
0:04:20 > 0:04:23producing duck eggs as opposed to chicken eggs?
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- They don't probably lay quite as many per day as a chicken.- Yeah.
0:04:26 > 0:04:28You've got that. But the main difference,
0:04:28 > 0:04:33- with economics, is they eat newly twice the amount of food.- 'It means they're slightly more expensive
0:04:33 > 0:04:36'than hen's eggs, but you get plenty for your money.'
0:04:36 > 0:04:41A chicken egg will be about 60g, and these'll be about 80g egg,
0:04:41 > 0:04:45- so you get a lot more of an egg. - The flavour of a duck egg is far superior to a hen's egg to me.
0:04:45 > 0:04:49Well, it is. The yolk is bigger, and that's where the flavour is.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53- I mean, ask all children what's the bit they like eating, the yolk.- Yeah.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57And so, suddenly, you have something that's very flavourful,
0:04:57 > 0:05:00easy to use, I mean, you can do everything you want to do with it.
0:05:00 > 0:05:04You can do everything you can with a chicken egg but with more flavour.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08'So, the next time you see duck eggs in your supermarket, pop them in your basket.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13'They might be a bit pricier than hen's eggs, but trust me, they're well worth it.'
0:05:15 > 0:05:20- Still warm as well, these ones. - Yeah. I think that's enough.
0:05:22 > 0:05:25'And to inspire you to start cooking with duck eggs at home,
0:05:25 > 0:05:28'I'm going to use David's incredible eggs to create
0:05:28 > 0:05:31'my very own take on salade de gesiers.'
0:05:31 > 0:05:35I'll do a deep-fried, crispy duck egg, with a duck confit salad.
0:05:39 > 0:05:42Now, for this recipe, we'll soft-boil the duck eggs.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45First of all, boiling salted water.
0:05:45 > 0:05:47And what I'm going to use is a touch of vinegar.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50Now, it's a good trick putting vinegar in, because,
0:05:50 > 0:05:53as the eggs roll around in the boiling water,
0:05:53 > 0:05:57sometimes the shells crack, and doing so allows the whites to come out.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00If we put the vinegar in, it will hold it all together.
0:06:00 > 0:06:04Hen's eggs, soft-boiled, you want about five minutes.
0:06:04 > 0:06:08With duck eggs, you're looking about 5.5 minutes, purely the fact
0:06:08 > 0:06:11it's all down to size. 'And you can see the difference between the two,
0:06:11 > 0:06:14'if you crack open a hen's egg, then a duck egg.'
0:06:14 > 0:06:17You can see straightaway on here, the size of the yolks,
0:06:17 > 0:06:20but, most importantly, the size of the whole egg.
0:06:20 > 0:06:24'Which is a whopping 30% larger than a hen's egg and worth every penny.'
0:06:24 > 0:06:27Our eggs are ready.
0:06:27 > 0:06:31These can come straight out into the ice-cold water.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36Just instantly stops it from cooking.
0:06:36 > 0:06:40We can leave those now to go cold. 'While I make a pickle.'
0:06:40 > 0:06:44It's very, very quick, very simple but tastes delicious with this.
0:06:46 > 0:06:50'All you need is some pitted cherries, a sliced shallot
0:06:50 > 0:06:53'and three store cupboard staples heated together -
0:06:53 > 0:06:56'rice wine vinegar...
0:06:56 > 0:07:00'a pinch of salt and a sprinkling of sugar.'
0:07:00 > 0:07:02It's nothing more complicated than that.
0:07:02 > 0:07:06Normally, with pickled onions and that kind of thing, you had to wait 3-4 months.
0:07:06 > 0:07:10This is really quick, really simple, great flavour for our salad.
0:07:10 > 0:07:13'And while that infuses, we can peel our eggs.'
0:07:13 > 0:07:15Now, always on an egg,
0:07:15 > 0:07:18you have a little white membrane that's just underneath the shell.
0:07:18 > 0:07:20So, the idea is to get your finger
0:07:20 > 0:07:23just underneath that membrane first of all,
0:07:23 > 0:07:26and it becomes easier to peel.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29'Once that's done, you can coat them in the breadcrumbs.'
0:07:29 > 0:07:34So you've got the flour, the egg and the crumb. So first off...
0:07:34 > 0:07:37roll it around in the flour,
0:07:37 > 0:07:40then in the egg
0:07:40 > 0:07:42and then in the breadcrumbs.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46So, there you have it - a nice, little sort of egg
0:07:46 > 0:07:50ready for deep-fat frying. With that, I'll do a little salad.
0:07:50 > 0:07:53'Using mixed leaves with a sherry vinegar and olive oil dressing
0:07:53 > 0:07:56'that'll go brilliantly with my next ingredient.'
0:07:56 > 0:07:59I'm going to incorporate into our salad this duck confit.
0:07:59 > 0:08:05You can actually buy these nowadays in jars, but what it is is,
0:08:05 > 0:08:09basically, a duck leg that's been salted and cooked in duck fat.
0:08:09 > 0:08:15So we're just going to basically just break the duck confit,
0:08:15 > 0:08:19like that, a little bit in there.
0:08:19 > 0:08:24I got some bacon. Just a simple little salad.
0:08:24 > 0:08:28'And before we dress it, we can deep-fry the duck egg in hot oil.'
0:08:28 > 0:08:32And once in the fryer, it wants to deep-fat fry for about 20-30 seconds.
0:08:32 > 0:08:36'Until it's a lovely shade of golden brown.'
0:08:37 > 0:08:41And there you have it - a deep-fried crispy duck egg.
0:08:41 > 0:08:43'Easy! Time to put everything else together.'
0:08:43 > 0:08:48So just dress the salad in some of your sherry vinegar dressing.
0:08:48 > 0:08:51'Add some of the cherry and shallot pickle.'
0:08:51 > 0:08:55Then what you're looking to do, really, is just build a little nest on the plate,
0:08:55 > 0:08:58so your duck egg can be placed on the top.
0:08:58 > 0:09:01It's lovely and gooey and soft in the centre.
0:09:01 > 0:09:08And then, what I like is just a pinch of rock salt on the top.
0:09:08 > 0:09:10And look at that egg yolk.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13What's great about this dish is you get... The egg yolk
0:09:13 > 0:09:18gives you a nice dressing, you get the crispiness of the outside,
0:09:18 > 0:09:20the whites are full of flavour...
0:09:22 > 0:09:26Mmm! It's proper, proper flavour is that.
0:09:26 > 0:09:29It's how eggs should taste. That's what it's all about - the taste.
0:09:29 > 0:09:32That's what food should be about - taste!
0:09:32 > 0:09:36And with a duck egg, you really get that. It's delicious!
0:09:43 > 0:09:45I want you to rediscover duck eggs,
0:09:45 > 0:09:49a delicious ingredient largely overlooked in this country,
0:09:49 > 0:09:51so I'm on my way to Dereham in Norfolk
0:09:51 > 0:09:55to meet a producer who sells around 7.5 million duck eggs a year.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58That's quite a turnaround given that, 70 odd years ago,
0:09:58 > 0:10:01their reputation was in tatters because of health scares.
0:10:01 > 0:10:04Salmonella has blighted the egg industry for years,
0:10:04 > 0:10:08and it wasn't until recently, when the government stepped in
0:10:08 > 0:10:11to create legislation that's almost eradicated it all in hen's eggs.
0:10:11 > 0:10:14The same can't be said about duck eggs.
0:10:14 > 0:10:17There's no legislation involved in any of their production.
0:10:17 > 0:10:21It seems ridiculous to me that there should be a choice between the two.
0:10:21 > 0:10:24It should be the same legislation across the board.
0:10:24 > 0:10:27'Something producer Melandy Daniels is tackling head-on
0:10:27 > 0:10:30'with her own set of stringent guidelines.'
0:10:30 > 0:10:32Wow, this is impressive.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34LOUD QUACKING
0:10:34 > 0:10:39- All our little girls. - Your little girls?- Yes.
0:10:39 > 0:10:43- You're a busy parent if this is all your little girls. - SHE LAUGHS
0:10:43 > 0:10:48- How many is in here, then?- There's about between 350 and 500 per pen.
0:10:48 > 0:10:53- Right. And are these different ages as we go down?- These first pens,
0:10:53 > 0:10:58- the first four, they're called our Star 3s.- Yeah.
0:10:58 > 0:11:03- These are coming towards the end of their laying life for us.- Right.
0:11:03 > 0:11:05'Melandy keeps her ducks inside,
0:11:05 > 0:11:08'to try to ensure they're free from infection,
0:11:08 > 0:11:11'changes the straw regularly and vaccinates against salmonella.'
0:11:11 > 0:11:15- These were hatched last Wednesday. - Last Wednesday?- Last Wednesday.
0:11:15 > 0:11:19It's their birthday tomorrow. They'll be a week old.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21- LAUGHTER - Great little things, aren't they?
0:11:21 > 0:11:25So what age do you vaccinate these little fellas?
0:11:25 > 0:11:29Start the course at two weeks, then 12 weeks and 18 weeks,
0:11:29 > 0:11:32just before they start to lay. So by the time they come in to lay,
0:11:32 > 0:11:35- they're fully vaccinated and covered.- I'll let you go.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38- Run back. - LAUGHTER
0:11:40 > 0:11:44'And the farm precautions don't stop there. They collect their eggs
0:11:44 > 0:11:47'as soon as they're laid, disinfect them thoroughly
0:11:47 > 0:11:50'and send a batch away for testing every month.'
0:11:50 > 0:11:55- They grade them by light as well. Why?- Handling them by holding them up to the light,
0:11:55 > 0:11:58you can see where the air sac is. It should always be at the top.
0:11:58 > 0:12:01The egg stays fresher longer like that.
0:12:01 > 0:12:04'But what sets these eggs apart is their own unique stamp,
0:12:04 > 0:12:08'a sign of assurance, similar to that found on hen's eggs in the supermarket.'
0:12:08 > 0:12:12And this is the important thing for me, where the Red Lion logo
0:12:12 > 0:12:16denotes that it's from the UK, it's been vaccinated.
0:12:16 > 0:12:20You've done more or less the same here but your own way of doing it.
0:12:20 > 0:12:26- We print on the date the egg was laid, the best before date...- Yeah.
0:12:26 > 0:12:30..and then I can tell you that these came from the Star 7s,
0:12:30 > 0:12:35so we can more or less pin down which pen of ducks these came from.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38If we are going to get people to eat more of these eggs,
0:12:38 > 0:12:40then this is going to be the best way of going about it.
0:12:40 > 0:12:44Yes. We're not just putting the details on the egg,
0:12:44 > 0:12:48we put our name on that egg. The Blue Duck is a Watercress Lane duck.
0:12:48 > 0:12:53'So Melandy's putting her head on the block in order to restore confidence in duck eggs.
0:12:54 > 0:12:58'And there's a chef in South London who's doing much the same thing,
0:12:58 > 0:13:01'naming his restaurant after his favourite ingredient.'
0:13:01 > 0:13:05- On the menu, you've a choice between hen's egg and the duck egg.- Yeah.
0:13:05 > 0:13:07When you first opened, I'm assuming
0:13:07 > 0:13:11- the hen's eggs were more popular. - They were winning hands down.- Yes.
0:13:11 > 0:13:13And at the moment, they're running kind of parallel,
0:13:13 > 0:13:18and maybe the duck egg might be even taking the lead now.
0:13:18 > 0:13:22- People get to taste it and understand the taste.- Absolutely.
0:13:22 > 0:13:24- Do you think that's where it comes from?- I think so.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27At first, people were apprehensive, a little bit weary.
0:13:27 > 0:13:29"It's a bit rich, it's a bit this,"
0:13:29 > 0:13:33and now people are appreciating the flavour of the duck egg.
0:13:33 > 0:13:36'It's great news and just goes to show that,
0:13:36 > 0:13:40'once you've tasted them, there's no going back.'
0:13:40 > 0:13:42- You had the duck eggs as well? - Always duck eggs.
0:13:42 > 0:13:45Why always duck eggs? Do you like the taste?
0:13:45 > 0:13:50There's much more flavour, bigger, fuller, always. And it's a bit of a novelty.
0:13:54 > 0:13:58There you go, gents. Regulars here.
0:13:58 > 0:14:02- But you've never tried duck eggs before, have you?- No.
0:14:02 > 0:14:04Tell us what you think.
0:14:10 > 0:14:15- It's a little bit richer.- Richer? Would it be something, if you came back again, you would try again?
0:14:15 > 0:14:20- Yeah.- Yeah?- Certainly.- Definitely. - We've got a convert over here.
0:14:20 > 0:14:21LAUGHTER
0:14:21 > 0:14:25It's such a shame, to be honest, that the humble duck egg
0:14:25 > 0:14:28has had a reputation that it's never really managed to shake off,
0:14:28 > 0:14:32as it's a great British product. But if more places like this open up,
0:14:32 > 0:14:37serving great breakfast like that, maybe our attitudes might change!
0:14:38 > 0:14:41'And duck eggs aren't just delicious at breakfast.
0:14:41 > 0:14:45'They're a great alternative in cakes and puddings too,
0:14:45 > 0:14:49'and, to prove it, here's my twist on a classic tea-time treat.'
0:14:49 > 0:14:52As a nation, we've been baking cakes since the 18th century,
0:14:52 > 0:14:56but it wasn't until the 19th century when the most famous cake of all was born -
0:14:56 > 0:14:58Victoria sponge, named after Queen Victoria.
0:14:58 > 0:15:02But what I'm going to do is bring it right to the 21st century
0:15:02 > 0:15:05and use duck eggs to create a strawberry and cream sponge cake.
0:15:09 > 0:15:14Now, the base of this recipe is sugar, first of all...
0:15:15 > 0:15:19..and butter - it has to be made with butter. That's very important.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23You can't make this with margarine, you don't get the same taste.
0:15:23 > 0:15:26This is what I love about baking cakes, these fantastic bowls.
0:15:26 > 0:15:28It reminds me of when my granny used to bake
0:15:28 > 0:15:32and she used to use these stoneware bowls
0:15:32 > 0:15:36and rub butter and flour together in her hands while watching Corrie.
0:15:36 > 0:15:41And I've actually still got the bowl that she baked with all those years
0:15:41 > 0:15:43at my home. But they're lovely.
0:15:43 > 0:15:46There's something just a great feel and a shape to these things,
0:15:46 > 0:15:50so a little bit of vanilla, purely optional if you want to put that in,
0:15:50 > 0:15:53and then we whisk this up.
0:15:53 > 0:15:57And it's really important that you use butter at room temperature.
0:15:57 > 0:16:00We're just creaming the butter and sugar together,
0:16:00 > 0:16:04and it just slightly changes colour and goes a little bit lighter.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08Now we can add our duck eggs. 'You'll need five in total.'
0:16:08 > 0:16:12And the secret, just add one at a time,
0:16:12 > 0:16:14keep mixing all the time.
0:16:14 > 0:16:18'Add them too quickly and the mixture will split.'
0:16:18 > 0:16:23That looks good to me. And I've got some self-raising flour here.
0:16:26 > 0:16:30I always mix this bit by hand, because if you make it by machine,
0:16:30 > 0:16:34it toughens up the gluten in the flour,
0:16:34 > 0:16:37and your cake doesn't end up being nice and light,
0:16:37 > 0:16:39and that's what we're looking for.
0:16:39 > 0:16:44So, if you're going to replace a standard recipe for duck eggs,
0:16:44 > 0:16:46literally, you want a little less duck eggs,
0:16:46 > 0:16:50cos they're much bigger than hen's eggs,
0:16:50 > 0:16:54so just drop the amount of eggs down in a standard recipe.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57'Once everything's combined, divide the mixture between two tins.'
0:16:57 > 0:17:02If you put too much sponge in one tin,
0:17:02 > 0:17:05and try and cut it in half after it's cooked,
0:17:05 > 0:17:08the outside tends to be quite dry
0:17:08 > 0:17:11before the inside is actually cooked.
0:17:11 > 0:17:15And then spread this mixture down a little bit, not too much.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17'Place them in a medium-hot oven.'
0:17:19 > 0:17:25This needs to go in for about 18-20 minutes, until it's nicely cooked.
0:17:25 > 0:17:29Now, with that... This is where purists would have a heart attack,
0:17:29 > 0:17:35because Victoria sponge classically is served with raspberry jam.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38I'm actually going to make a strawberry jam.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42'This isn't a classic jam either - it's quick and easy, ready in minutes.'
0:17:42 > 0:17:45I'm going to add less sugar, some lemon...
0:17:45 > 0:17:47'Which will help it set.'
0:17:50 > 0:17:53..before I add the fruit.
0:17:53 > 0:17:58'You'll need about 500 grams, hulled and halved if they're big.'
0:17:58 > 0:18:02And we cook this really rapidly for about 10 minutes.
0:18:02 > 0:18:06This will speed it up, but the offset is it won't last very long,
0:18:06 > 0:18:10so in the fridge a maximum of a week, that's all it's going to last.
0:18:10 > 0:18:12'And while that's cooling, we can make our garnish,
0:18:12 > 0:18:16'strawberries dipped in melted-sugar caramel.'
0:18:16 > 0:18:19This sugar's extremely hot.
0:18:19 > 0:18:24So make sure you dip the strawberry and not your finger,
0:18:24 > 0:18:27cos you'll only do it once.
0:18:27 > 0:18:31And then, you can see our jam as it starts to thicken,
0:18:31 > 0:18:36and all we can do know is just transfer it onto a tray...
0:18:39 > 0:18:43Allow it to cool, and there you have it -
0:18:43 > 0:18:46an instant, quick strawberry jam.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50'The perfect filling for our duck egg sponges, which have now cooled.'
0:18:50 > 0:18:53Traditionally, of course, this would be filled with raspberry jam,
0:18:53 > 0:18:56and just raspberry jam, and topped off with caster sugar.
0:18:56 > 0:18:59However, if the WI are watching, I do apologise,
0:18:59 > 0:19:03cos this is not a classic Victoria sponge, this is my version.
0:19:03 > 0:19:08Cos the last time I entered this for a WI competition, I got banned.
0:19:08 > 0:19:12They banned me on all fronts, because they said it shouldn't have double cream in it.
0:19:12 > 0:19:16I filled it full of strawberry jam and I put icing sugar on the top.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19Between me and you, it tasted the best.
0:19:19 > 0:19:21But it didn't win.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25In fact, it didn't even come last. It got disqualified.
0:19:27 > 0:19:32Now, no need to over-whip this, just leave it probably at that,
0:19:32 > 0:19:34just lightly whipped.
0:19:36 > 0:19:41So, to assemble this, pick whichever top you like as the base,
0:19:41 > 0:19:45and then we can spread it full of this jam.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47And put plenty on as well,
0:19:47 > 0:19:50because I guarantee people are going to dive into this.
0:19:50 > 0:19:52'Topped with lashings of double cream.'
0:19:52 > 0:19:54Oh, oh!
0:19:54 > 0:19:56Look at this.
0:19:56 > 0:20:00And I can grab the top part of the sponge.
0:20:07 > 0:20:11And then finish that off with some icing sugar.
0:20:11 > 0:20:15And last but not at least, our caramel-dipped strawberries.
0:20:15 > 0:20:18And there you have it - who could resist that?
0:20:18 > 0:20:20My strawberry and cream cake made with duck eggs.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27But the real, true test, to see whether these duck eggs
0:20:27 > 0:20:30are well worth it, is when you look inside.
0:20:30 > 0:20:32A light, delicate sponge.
0:20:32 > 0:20:35It really does make the difference in terms of colour
0:20:35 > 0:20:37and, most importantly, flavour.
0:20:37 > 0:20:39Oh, ho, ho, ho!
0:20:41 > 0:20:46If there's Heaven, this is it. It's right here, right now.
0:20:54 > 0:20:57I want you to start appreciating other types of eggs.
0:20:57 > 0:21:01I'm off to Kirdford in West Sussex to track down another one.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04Hopefully, I've persuaded you to try
0:21:04 > 0:21:08one more egg in your shopping basket, the duck egg.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11However, there's one more I want you to look at as well,
0:21:11 > 0:21:14and it's only a little one - the humble quail's egg.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17An egg with a long, auspicious history, found on Norman,
0:21:17 > 0:21:21Tudor and Victorian menus, and now considered
0:21:21 > 0:21:25a bit of a luxury item, only bought on special occasions, if at all.
0:21:25 > 0:21:28That's something that this quail farmer hopes to change.
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- A lot of noise comes out of these little things.- Oh, yes.
0:21:32 > 0:21:33Good alarm clocks.
0:21:33 > 0:21:37How do you get started into farming quail? It's not the usual...
0:21:37 > 0:21:38It all started as a hobby.
0:21:38 > 0:21:44We've kept hens for a good number of years, in the back garden.
0:21:44 > 0:21:47We went to a county show one year
0:21:47 > 0:21:50and we saw about half a dozen in a small rabbit hutch.
0:21:50 > 0:21:54My son, Charlie, asked the guy who was selling them
0:21:54 > 0:21:57how much room they'd normally need.
0:21:57 > 0:22:01The guy said, "You could probably get another dozen in there."
0:22:01 > 0:22:03So, he looked at me and I looked at him
0:22:03 > 0:22:05and we thought, "Better take these little guys home."
0:22:05 > 0:22:09- And all of a sudden, we had all these eggs.- And what have we got now?
0:22:09 > 0:22:16- We've got three of these, each with how many?- Each with about, erm...
0:22:16 > 0:22:20about 150 in them. In these houses, they're free to fly,
0:22:20 > 0:22:24they're free to roost on the ground - underneath, there's straw -
0:22:24 > 0:22:29and to live as natural a life as we can give them.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32So why do you think they're not so popular as they used to be here?
0:22:32 > 0:22:37- I think not many people keep them over here.- You can't be one of...
0:22:37 > 0:22:38one of just a very few.
0:22:38 > 0:22:44- It's the first quail farm that I've ever come across in the UK. - Yeah, it's pretty niche.
0:22:44 > 0:22:46'Which is why we need to support them
0:22:46 > 0:22:49'by buying quail's eggs all year round.'
0:22:49 > 0:22:52There is a distinct flavour with quail's eggs,
0:22:52 > 0:22:55that separates them apart from duck eggs and hen's eggs.
0:22:55 > 0:23:00Mmm. They're kind of the opposite end of the spectrum from duck eggs.
0:23:00 > 0:23:05They're a much lighter, more subtle taste,
0:23:05 > 0:23:07with a really nice, creamy texture.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09'And there's so much you can do with them.'
0:23:09 > 0:23:12One of the restaurants that we sell to,
0:23:12 > 0:23:15they take our freshest eggs and poach them.
0:23:15 > 0:23:18You've started smoking the eggs as well?
0:23:18 > 0:23:22Yes, we've tried to do as many things as we can with them,
0:23:22 > 0:23:24just to show how much is possible with them.
0:23:24 > 0:23:26I think the more people become aware about them,
0:23:26 > 0:23:29the more people use them, the less of...
0:23:29 > 0:23:32dare I say it, the fine delicacy they'll be,
0:23:32 > 0:23:34and accessible to many people.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37- Absolutely, yeah. - What's your favourite?
0:23:37 > 0:23:39If you could pick anything to do with them,
0:23:39 > 0:23:42- what's your favourite? - I like the Scotch eggs myself!
0:23:42 > 0:23:46'Sounds good to me. Nik's wife, Sylvia, makes them to sell at farmers' markets.
0:23:46 > 0:23:49'As luck would have it, there's a fresh batch in the fryer.'
0:23:49 > 0:23:55- OK. And there we are.- Looks good to me.- One hot, fresh egg.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59- I can get you a clean knife, if you like.- That's all right.
0:24:02 > 0:24:07Of course, these are great, being smaller, children like them.
0:24:07 > 0:24:10They're hot but they're delicious.
0:24:10 > 0:24:13And much easier to eat, being that sort of size.
0:24:13 > 0:24:16That's right - for people who haven't got such a big appetite,
0:24:16 > 0:24:18I think they're really pretty little...
0:24:18 > 0:24:21Unlike people like me, who would want about six of these.
0:24:21 > 0:24:23That's right. You can make yours with a goose egg.
0:24:23 > 0:24:25Thanks very much(!)
0:24:25 > 0:24:28'Yeah, I might just try that, and you should too,
0:24:28 > 0:24:31'because British duck and quail farmers deserve our support.'
0:24:31 > 0:24:34What's great about this here, you've got a thriving,
0:24:34 > 0:24:37successful business, brought out of just a hobby.
0:24:37 > 0:24:40It goes to show that quail's eggs shouldn't just be
0:24:40 > 0:24:42eaten for Christmas, because they taste delicious,
0:24:42 > 0:24:45and we should appreciate them all year round.
0:24:45 > 0:24:49And here's a great recipe that will help you do just that.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52It's bursting with flavour, takes minutes to make
0:24:52 > 0:24:56and gives you the perfect lunch, supper, snack, you name it.
0:24:56 > 0:24:58It's an Arbroath smokie pate
0:24:58 > 0:25:00with soft-boiled quail's eggs and beetroot.
0:25:04 > 0:25:08Timing is of course, crucial, when it comes to soft-boiled eggs,
0:25:08 > 0:25:09none more so than quail's eggs,
0:25:09 > 0:25:13because these tiny little things only want two minutes.
0:25:13 > 0:25:17Boil in salted water, a little pinch of salt in there.
0:25:18 > 0:25:20Some vinegar, bring that to the boil
0:25:20 > 0:25:23and then we can drop in the quail's eggs.
0:25:27 > 0:25:30While they are cooking away, on with our beetroot.
0:25:30 > 0:25:32I've got some cooked beetroot here.
0:25:32 > 0:25:34You can get this in supermarkets now.
0:25:34 > 0:25:36'Don't mistake it for that pickled stuff.'
0:25:36 > 0:25:38Just get it nice and thin.
0:25:40 > 0:25:44'And when your eggs are done, pop them in ice-cold water
0:25:44 > 0:25:46'to stop them cooking.
0:25:46 > 0:25:49'And plate up your beetroot with another favourite of mine,
0:25:49 > 0:25:51'caper berries.'
0:25:51 > 0:25:55I love these things. They're really delicious in flavour.
0:25:55 > 0:25:59Almost like a little miniature fruit inside.
0:25:59 > 0:26:00Put a few of those on there.
0:26:00 > 0:26:03'Then you can carefully peel your eggs.'
0:26:03 > 0:26:06The good thing about these, particularly all soft-boiled eggs,
0:26:06 > 0:26:09is once you peel them, they keep really well,
0:26:09 > 0:26:13just in ice-cold water in the fridge, and they'll keep overnight.
0:26:17 > 0:26:21All done. Then over to our pate.
0:26:21 > 0:26:24These are Arbroath smokies.
0:26:24 > 0:26:26What these are, are haddock.
0:26:26 > 0:26:29A lot of people think these are like kippers - it's nothing like kippers.
0:26:29 > 0:26:33The process is still the same, it's still hot-smoking, but kippers
0:26:33 > 0:26:36are done with herring, this is haddock, and you just have them with butter.
0:26:36 > 0:26:39I'm going to create a little pate with them.
0:26:39 > 0:26:41'And it's dead simple.
0:26:41 > 0:26:44'Just whack the fish in a food processor, minus the bones.
0:26:44 > 0:26:48'Add a good squeeze of lemon juice, a little salt -
0:26:48 > 0:26:53'remember, these are cured - lots of black pepper and some double cream.'
0:26:53 > 0:26:54It's got to be double cream.
0:26:54 > 0:26:58The reason being, as we blend it, it wants to create a pate.
0:26:58 > 0:27:01If you use anything like creme fraiche...
0:27:02 > 0:27:05..yoghurt or anything like that, it will split and it will end up,
0:27:05 > 0:27:09basically, into a drink and not into a mousse.
0:27:11 > 0:27:13We blend it. How long is that?
0:27:13 > 0:27:14Five seconds?
0:27:16 > 0:27:18Arbroath smokie pate. As easy as that.
0:27:18 > 0:27:21'Dress the salad with a light vinaigrette.'
0:27:23 > 0:27:26And then, just finish this off.
0:27:26 > 0:27:29You've got your lovely quail's eggs, straight through, done,
0:27:29 > 0:27:33and you can see, just perfectly soft-boiled.
0:27:36 > 0:27:40And then, just to finish this off, you've got this mousse.
0:27:40 > 0:27:46If you're feeling a bit brave, you can then do a little quenelle.
0:27:49 > 0:27:53The difference between a dollop and a quenelle is 20 quid.
0:27:53 > 0:27:56'And serve with some crunchy Melba toast.'
0:27:56 > 0:27:58And there you have it, my Arbroath smokie pate
0:27:58 > 0:28:01with soft-boiled quail's egg and beetroot.
0:28:08 > 0:28:12The best way to revive our Great British eggs is to cook with them.
0:28:12 > 0:28:16Here at a cookery school in Bristol, they're teaching people to do just that.
0:28:17 > 0:28:21- Right, so, has anyone poached quail's eggs before?- No.
0:28:21 > 0:28:25The reason I love eggs is because they are incredibly versatile,
0:28:25 > 0:28:29but I find, whenever I suggest quail eggs or duck eggs to people,
0:28:29 > 0:28:32very often the response is, "Ooh, I'm not sure about that."
0:28:32 > 0:28:35Pour it all in, put the lid back on.
0:28:35 > 0:28:40So, I think, people are missing out, if they're afraid.
0:28:40 > 0:28:43Because you treat them in exactly the same way as a hen egg,
0:28:43 > 0:28:45but you get so much more out of them.
0:28:45 > 0:28:47So, these are your poached eggs.
0:28:47 > 0:28:49Cooking with different eggs is completely new to me.
0:28:49 > 0:28:52I've never cooked with anything but hen eggs.
0:28:52 > 0:28:53I'd never tried them before,
0:28:53 > 0:28:57because I didn't know what you did with them.
0:28:57 > 0:29:00Now I know they are similar to hen's eggs, in that you can use them
0:29:00 > 0:29:04in pretty much the same way, but they just are a slightly better flavour.
0:29:04 > 0:29:08I've always steered well clear of duck eggs, because they look so different,
0:29:08 > 0:29:12and they're the same as hen's eggs and they're much tastier.
0:29:12 > 0:29:14Mmm. That's really, really lovely.
0:29:14 > 0:29:17They're converted - so how about you?
0:29:17 > 0:29:18It's such a shame - as a nation,
0:29:18 > 0:29:22we seem to have lost our nation's appetite for variety in our eggs.
0:29:22 > 0:29:25Hen's eggs are essential, but there are others out there.
0:29:25 > 0:29:28These are great British staples and not just for the chosen few.
0:29:28 > 0:29:31These are not luxury items, these are everyday items.
0:29:31 > 0:29:35Duck eggs, quail's eggs, they produce fantastic flavour and taste
0:29:35 > 0:29:37in cakes and other dishes.
0:29:37 > 0:29:41So next time you're out shopping, try them - you won't be disappointed.
0:29:45 > 0:29:48And now for a chef who is desperate to revive a produce
0:29:48 > 0:29:52that everyone around the world loves eating, except us Brits.
0:29:53 > 0:29:56I bet you were thinking I was going to come along
0:29:56 > 0:30:00and start complaining about another endangered ingredient.
0:30:00 > 0:30:01Well, this time, I'm not.
0:30:01 > 0:30:04I'm going to start whingeing about the lack of support
0:30:04 > 0:30:07Britain gives one of the greatest fishes,
0:30:07 > 0:30:10that swims with abundance around its coastline.
0:30:10 > 0:30:13And that's the great British mackerel.
0:30:13 > 0:30:17'My name is Richard Corrigan. I'm fanatical about this fish.
0:30:17 > 0:30:19'And I'm determined to do one thing...
0:30:19 > 0:30:22'to persuade you - yes, you -
0:30:22 > 0:30:24'to discover this great British delight.'
0:30:29 > 0:30:33'I'll also be trying to persuade a first-time mackerel eater
0:30:33 > 0:30:35'to take the plunge and taste it.'
0:30:35 > 0:30:37I've never eaten fresh mackerel.
0:30:37 > 0:30:41'I'll discover the shocking truth about where most of our mackerel is eaten.'
0:30:41 > 0:30:45Russia, Egypt, Nigeria - because they value mackerel.
0:30:45 > 0:30:48'And I'll be in the Revival kitchen,
0:30:48 > 0:30:51'cooking up three brilliantly tasty fishy dishes.
0:30:51 > 0:30:53'This is a real boy's dish.'
0:30:59 > 0:31:03Every year on my annual leave, I go to southern Ireland,
0:31:03 > 0:31:05to a wonderful place called Woodstown.
0:31:05 > 0:31:09It's very near this gorgeous fishing village of Dunmore East.
0:31:09 > 0:31:14I've a small boat moored there and every day, I go out off the Hook Head
0:31:14 > 0:31:17and I go fishing for gurnard, sea bass or mackerel.
0:31:17 > 0:31:22And when I catch that fish, I always treat it so simply.
0:31:22 > 0:31:26A wonderful, wonderful way to spend any summer day.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31It's not only delicious - it's also really good for you.
0:31:31 > 0:31:34The mackerel is a swimming health food.
0:31:34 > 0:31:36They're filled to the gills with omega-3 oils,
0:31:36 > 0:31:39which helps prevent heart disease.
0:31:39 > 0:31:41But we're not fans of it.
0:31:41 > 0:31:46Personally, I think the real issue in Britain is we are all a little bit boring!
0:31:46 > 0:31:50We're used to have three or four maximum different species of fish, and we stick to them -
0:31:50 > 0:31:54month in, month out, year in, year out.
0:31:54 > 0:31:57Now is the time to try the great mackerel.
0:31:57 > 0:32:00And if we don't re-evaluate our attitudes to mackerel,
0:32:00 > 0:32:02it will simply disappear from our plates.
0:32:06 > 0:32:08The mackerel industry is huge.
0:32:08 > 0:32:14It's a great British success story. But there's something fishy about what happens after it's caught.
0:32:14 > 0:32:16I've never tried a fresh mackerel.
0:32:16 > 0:32:18I don't like mackerel.
0:32:18 > 0:32:22I don't tend to cook it at home much. The family don't tend to like that.
0:32:22 > 0:32:24We've got the kids, and they're quite fussy.
0:32:24 > 0:32:27I just don't like the taste of it, don't like the look of it.
0:32:27 > 0:32:31I tried mackerel for the first time this week. It was disgusting.
0:32:31 > 0:32:34'Hmm, really?! But they're not alone.
0:32:34 > 0:32:37'We have Europe's largest quota to fish mackerel,
0:32:37 > 0:32:41'catching £170 million worth of fish every year.
0:32:41 > 0:32:45'And how much of this stays in the UK? 10%.'
0:32:45 > 0:32:48We export 90% of our mackerel.
0:32:48 > 0:32:5290%?! What's up with ye?!
0:32:52 > 0:32:54But maybe that's because we're all a bit stuck in our old ways.
0:32:54 > 0:32:58We're all capable of eating that bland piece of cod,
0:32:58 > 0:33:03that tinned mackerel or the sardine in a little bit of oil.
0:33:03 > 0:33:08But how about I show you how to eat really great fresh mackerel?
0:33:08 > 0:33:13'Most of the mackerel we see in our fishmongers' and supermarkets is caught by massive trawlers.
0:33:13 > 0:33:17'But I want to witness a slightly less industrialised way of fishing.
0:33:17 > 0:33:21'So to see it really fresh, I've joined Gavin Thain on board his boat
0:33:21 > 0:33:24'as he line-fishes for mackerel off the coast of Peterhead.'
0:33:24 > 0:33:28The sun belies how rough this sea can get.
0:33:28 > 0:33:31It's a beautiful day here, but my, oh my,
0:33:31 > 0:33:34this boat is shaking around like a rocking horse.
0:33:39 > 0:33:41Is this a calm day in Scotland?!
0:33:41 > 0:33:45- Yeah, yeah. We do this every day! - What's the art of catching mackerel?
0:33:45 > 0:33:47It's more finding them. Once we find them,
0:33:47 > 0:33:50it's quite easy to catch them. But they move so quickly.
0:33:50 > 0:33:52They'll be there one hour and gone the next.
0:33:52 > 0:33:55How do you know where to look for the mackerel?
0:33:55 > 0:33:59Well, on a flat, calm day, the birds often give the mackerel away,
0:33:59 > 0:34:04- because the mackerel are feeding on the sand eels...- Yes.
0:34:04 > 0:34:07And they chase the sand eels to the surface,
0:34:07 > 0:34:09and the birds feed on the sand eels.
0:34:09 > 0:34:12So... Not every time, but most times.
0:34:12 > 0:34:16Gavin, explain to me how your line system works.
0:34:16 > 0:34:19There's 40 hooks on each line
0:34:19 > 0:34:21and about six pounds of lead.
0:34:21 > 0:34:23So this proves the flies - the lures -
0:34:23 > 0:34:26down to the bottom, through the mackerel,
0:34:26 > 0:34:29and the mackerel obviously think that there's some kind of feed...
0:34:29 > 0:34:32- Yeah.- ..so they grab the hooks,
0:34:32 > 0:34:34the machine senses if there's a lot of fish goes on
0:34:34 > 0:34:36and it takes them straight back up.
0:34:36 > 0:34:39Then the line comes up between these two bars here,
0:34:39 > 0:34:43and the space isn't big enough for the mackerel, so it pulls the hook...
0:34:43 > 0:34:47- Pulls the hook out? - ..from its mouth, into the chute, then into the basket.
0:34:52 > 0:34:55'Luckily, we find a shoal of mackerel quite soon
0:34:55 > 0:34:59'and quickly, we're landing lots of these slippery fish.'
0:34:59 > 0:35:02What is a good catch of mackerel for you, Gavin?
0:35:02 > 0:35:05If I catch a tonne in a day, that's a very good day.
0:35:05 > 0:35:10- You look like a mackerel eater yourself.- No, no, I've never eaten fresh mackerel.
0:35:10 > 0:35:12- You've never eaten mackerel?! - No. Only smoked.
0:35:14 > 0:35:18- Have you never been tempted? - No, not really.- Why?
0:35:18 > 0:35:22- See them every day. - Well, hopefully, I might change your mind on that, yeah?
0:35:22 > 0:35:24'He's a mackerel fisherman
0:35:24 > 0:35:28'and he's never eaten fresh mackerel. Outrageous!
0:35:28 > 0:35:31'It'll be my mission to get him eating his own harvest.
0:35:31 > 0:35:36'I'm just about keeping hold of my breakfast on these choppy waters.
0:35:36 > 0:35:38'But holding onto a fish, that's another matter.'
0:35:38 > 0:35:40First of all...
0:35:40 > 0:35:42the bounty...
0:35:42 > 0:35:43HE CHUCKLES
0:35:43 > 0:35:45This is...
0:35:47 > 0:35:51Nothing more would I want for a beautiful mackerel for breakfast...
0:35:53 > 0:35:58But a...a delicious North Sea mackerel, fresh,
0:35:58 > 0:36:03is one of my favourite fish in this whole wide world.
0:36:03 > 0:36:09A coastal British fish, found with abundance and plenty.
0:36:09 > 0:36:15And so easy to prepare. And so many uses. So versatile.
0:36:15 > 0:36:17This is one of my favourite fish to cook with.
0:36:21 > 0:36:25'I can't believe Gavin's never eaten his own catch fresh.
0:36:25 > 0:36:27'A bit of my cooking should see to that.'
0:36:31 > 0:36:37- So, this is your first time having a piece of mackerel, eh?- Yeah.
0:36:37 > 0:36:40Just working with fish this fresh...
0:36:40 > 0:36:42is just beautiful. It really is.
0:36:45 > 0:36:49'All it needs is a splash of oil and a knob of butter.'
0:36:50 > 0:36:52How quick was that, Gavin?
0:36:52 > 0:36:54- Just a few minutes.- Here.
0:36:56 > 0:36:58Leave that there.
0:37:00 > 0:37:02Yeah, it's a treat.
0:37:02 > 0:37:04It's good.
0:37:04 > 0:37:07'I'll take that as high praise from him.'
0:37:07 > 0:37:10This is even extra special.
0:37:10 > 0:37:13I taste mackerel that's probably two days old when it gets to my restaurant,
0:37:13 > 0:37:15or maybe a day and a half.
0:37:15 > 0:37:17But straight out of the sea...
0:37:17 > 0:37:19I've eaten a lot of mackerel...
0:37:22 > 0:37:25..this is delicious!
0:37:32 > 0:37:35'And if you like the look of that mackerel,
0:37:35 > 0:37:37'I'm going to show you how easy it is to cook,
0:37:37 > 0:37:41'in a wonderful recipe in the Revival kitchen.'
0:37:41 > 0:37:45Mackerel and fruit really go well together, once you get the acidity right.
0:37:46 > 0:37:51The dish I'm going to cook for you is mackerel with a warm greengage chutney.
0:37:55 > 0:37:58The idea came for serving greengage with mackerel
0:37:58 > 0:38:01from a very old recipe of rhubarb with mackerel.
0:38:01 > 0:38:04If it's good enough for rhubarb, it's good enough for greengage.
0:38:05 > 0:38:10'Start by putting some roughly chopped onion in a pan
0:38:10 > 0:38:13'with a little vegetable oil. Then some chopped garlic,
0:38:13 > 0:38:15'and put the lid on it.
0:38:15 > 0:38:19'I want them softened, not fried. Next, the tomatoes.'
0:38:19 > 0:38:21This is where I'll differ from a lot of people.
0:38:21 > 0:38:23Skin the tomatoes or not?
0:38:23 > 0:38:25I'm not going to even bother.
0:38:25 > 0:38:27So in the tomatoes go.
0:38:30 > 0:38:35What it just needs in there, just for that moment, is a dash of water.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37A bit more moisture.
0:38:37 > 0:38:38Lid on.
0:38:40 > 0:38:45And as the tomatoes cook, the skin will loosen away from the tomato itself,
0:38:45 > 0:38:49and you can just pick 'em away at the end and discard them.
0:38:49 > 0:38:52Put on a pot of boiling water, boil the pot of boiling water,
0:38:52 > 0:38:55put the tomatoes in, skin the tomatoes. Makes cooking far too difficult!
0:38:55 > 0:38:57'Then some spices -
0:38:57 > 0:39:00'a couple of star anise, mustard seed, ginger,
0:39:00 > 0:39:05'turmeric, ground cardamom. Then start preparing the greengages.'
0:39:05 > 0:39:08These are nice and ripe. They need very little cooking.
0:39:08 > 0:39:13What I don't want is kind of a mashed-up greengage. I like just a little bite in them still.
0:39:13 > 0:39:16Just makes it ever so interesting.
0:39:16 > 0:39:18Greengages go really well with mackerel.
0:39:18 > 0:39:21The simple reason is, there's a slight tartiness to them,
0:39:21 > 0:39:26and that makes a really good accompaniment to an oily fish like the mackerel.
0:39:26 > 0:39:31It's just a natural wonderful accompaniment to go with mackerel.
0:39:31 > 0:39:35'By now, the tomato skins should be falling off,
0:39:35 > 0:39:38'so pluck them out with some tweezers and add in the greengages,
0:39:38 > 0:39:41'with a few teaspoons of sugar and a dash of vinegar,
0:39:41 > 0:39:45'and leave your instant chutney alone for four minutes.'
0:39:45 > 0:39:47So...
0:39:47 > 0:39:50mackerel. What are we looking for?
0:39:51 > 0:39:55We want our eyes nicely full in the fish.
0:39:55 > 0:39:59You can check the gills - they need to be as red as can be.
0:39:59 > 0:40:03When they start going slightly grey, you know that fish is getting old. And most importantly...
0:40:05 > 0:40:09..it doesn't smell of anything, like any good fresh fish.
0:40:09 > 0:40:13'To prepare it, de-head and clean the fish, then fillet.
0:40:13 > 0:40:14'It couldn't be simpler.
0:40:14 > 0:40:16'Slice beneath the backbone,
0:40:16 > 0:40:20'all the way along the mackerel, giving you two fillets.
0:40:20 > 0:40:22'To remove the bones, hold at the tail,
0:40:22 > 0:40:27'run the point of the knife down either side of the spine, and pull out.
0:40:27 > 0:40:31'Then put your mackerel on a hot, oiled pan, skin side down.'
0:40:31 > 0:40:34Raw mackerel is absolutely delicious.
0:40:34 > 0:40:38So, I like my mackerel, if anything, just slightly opaque in the middle.
0:40:38 > 0:40:42Hence, I don't turn it around. I put it skin side down.
0:40:42 > 0:40:43I leave it there.
0:40:43 > 0:40:47What I'm looking for is really crispy on one side
0:40:47 > 0:40:52and just barely turned on the other, just warm through the flesh part.
0:40:52 > 0:40:55So, what I do is...
0:40:55 > 0:40:58turn over my fish.
0:41:00 > 0:41:02Counting to five,
0:41:02 > 0:41:05one, two, three, four, five.
0:41:07 > 0:41:10And...
0:41:10 > 0:41:12onto my board.
0:41:12 > 0:41:15Stop the cooking straightaway.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17'Then serve up.
0:41:17 > 0:41:20'Chutney, mackerel, celery garnish,
0:41:20 > 0:41:22'with a sweet, vinegary dressing.'
0:41:26 > 0:41:31The greengage just has the right amount of acidity.
0:41:31 > 0:41:33The mackerel is gorgeous.
0:41:33 > 0:41:38And the celery works really well as a nice garnish to accompany it.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41Salady, fruity, gorgeous piece of mackerel.
0:41:41 > 0:41:45That's why Britain should really get eating this dish.
0:41:51 > 0:41:55'One of the simplest, easiest and cheapest ways to eat mackerel,
0:41:55 > 0:42:01'and, in one big supermarket chain, accounting for nearly half of all mackerel sales,
0:42:01 > 0:42:03'is the humble tin.'
0:42:03 > 0:42:08'I'm meeting Francis Clark in Fraserburgh, who owns the only fish canning plant in Britain,
0:42:08 > 0:42:10'to see the process.'
0:42:10 > 0:42:12How much mackerel is coming in here?
0:42:12 > 0:42:16We will produce between 20 and 30 tonnes per day.
0:42:16 > 0:42:2290% of oily fish caught around the British coasts is exported all around the world.
0:42:22 > 0:42:26- How come we're not in love with it? - But that just shows you how much more countries
0:42:26 > 0:42:28value this raw material.
0:42:28 > 0:42:31It is the most wonderful raw material because of the omega-3 and the oils,
0:42:31 > 0:42:37and it's only now that the British public are coming to respect the value of mackerel.
0:42:37 > 0:42:41- That's the skin of the mackerel. Can you feel the oil in it?- Yeah.
0:42:41 > 0:42:46And these are the fillets once they've been skinned. You see? Beautiful.
0:42:46 > 0:42:51People are now appreciating the benefits of mackerel. The omega-3.
0:42:51 > 0:42:52And also the price issue.
0:42:52 > 0:42:56Mackerel's the cheapest of all fish out there by a long way.
0:42:56 > 0:42:59It is the best fish to eat for people's well-being and everything.
0:43:03 > 0:43:09- So that's just steamed?- Yes, just steam cooked.- It's still warm. - Yes, yes, it is.
0:43:09 > 0:43:11And then it'll be automatically packed by machine here.
0:43:11 > 0:43:15And then the various sauces will be put in the can.
0:43:17 > 0:43:21- And it's not overcooked. - No, no, perfect.
0:43:21 > 0:43:25If the world starts eating mackerel, how sustainable is all of this?
0:43:25 > 0:43:26When you look at it just now,
0:43:26 > 0:43:31the huge eaters of mackerel are Russia, Egypt, Nigeria,
0:43:31 > 0:43:35because they value mackerel - they've been valuing mackerel for years and years and years.
0:43:35 > 0:43:39This is the part where the lids are put on mackerel in tomato sauce.
0:43:39 > 0:43:43- So the fish is in there, the sauce is in there, the lid's going on. - The lid goes on, yeah.
0:43:43 > 0:43:47This machine can work at roughly 250, 300 cans per minute.
0:43:58 > 0:44:03In Denmark, mothers use this for their lunching food for their children?
0:44:03 > 0:44:07- That's right, they call it brain food.- How come we don't have a similar culture in the UK?
0:44:07 > 0:44:11Because the eating habits in Britain are completely different to Scandinavia.
0:44:11 > 0:44:15But you'd rather give your kids that, with mayonnaise, than bread?
0:44:15 > 0:44:17Rather than give them crisps and a chocolate biscuit.
0:44:17 > 0:44:20- So we should be eating this mackerel?- Of course we should.
0:44:20 > 0:44:22And it is on our own back door.
0:44:22 > 0:44:25We're not worried about a resource being damaged in the Pacific
0:44:25 > 0:44:28or being damaged in the Mediterranean, like the bluefin tuna.
0:44:28 > 0:44:32This stock we have in the UK, properly harvested
0:44:32 > 0:44:35and properly managed is there for ever more.
0:44:35 > 0:44:37A very reasonable thing to eat as well?
0:44:37 > 0:44:40- 70p a can.- 70p a can.- Nothing.
0:44:44 > 0:44:46That alone was worth the visit to Scotland,
0:44:46 > 0:44:49to see one of my favourite snack foods
0:44:49 > 0:44:54in the factory environment, done with such efficiency.
0:44:54 > 0:44:57This is one of the super foods we're going to start to get to know
0:44:57 > 0:45:00a lot better in the very near future.
0:45:00 > 0:45:04'And to start getting to know mackerel better,
0:45:04 > 0:45:07'how about trying my next recipe in the Revival kitchen?'
0:45:07 > 0:45:11And for those of you who still have a problem eating mackerel,
0:45:11 > 0:45:13let me persuade you.
0:45:13 > 0:45:17My next dish is a mackerel and squid roll.
0:45:21 > 0:45:23First for the roll, we're going to prepare the vegetables.
0:45:23 > 0:45:27'This Asian-inspired recipe needs preparation.
0:45:27 > 0:45:31'So shave some carrots, finely slice an onion,
0:45:31 > 0:45:35'shave the stringy bits off some celery and finely cut them into lengths.
0:45:35 > 0:45:37'Then chop up the chilli.'
0:45:37 > 0:45:40I'm keeping the chilli, just chopping it up whole.
0:45:40 > 0:45:44I just want all of that flavour. This is a simple, rustic roll.
0:45:44 > 0:45:46So, nothing too fine about it.
0:45:46 > 0:45:50'Final bit of chopping. Spring onions and peanuts.
0:45:50 > 0:45:53'Get your wok hot with some plain vegetable oil.
0:45:53 > 0:45:57'And chuck in the onion and the celery, toss them around a bit.'
0:45:59 > 0:46:05And one way for a stir fry, without cooking it, without making it...greasy,
0:46:05 > 0:46:10is...put a lid on it.
0:46:10 > 0:46:13Take a small bit of water. We don't want to be adding oil the whole time.
0:46:13 > 0:46:15Mackerel is oily.
0:46:15 > 0:46:20So we don't want to make it too rich, with lots of cooking and lots of oil.
0:46:20 > 0:46:22A dash of water, lid on.
0:46:22 > 0:46:26Add a little bit of a steaming process to that celery when it's just gone in.
0:46:26 > 0:46:28My peanut, straight in now.
0:46:28 > 0:46:32The reason I'm adding the peanut now is to get some heat into the peanut
0:46:32 > 0:46:36just to take out some of the flavours which are the natural oils in it.
0:46:38 > 0:46:40Put my carrot in now.
0:46:40 > 0:46:46I left the carrot till last. It's shaved really, really thinly.
0:46:46 > 0:46:48It's going to cook very quickly.
0:46:48 > 0:46:49My spring onions.
0:46:51 > 0:46:52Little pieces.
0:46:54 > 0:46:56Add in my chilli.
0:47:03 > 0:47:07And straightaway... I add in some ginger.
0:47:07 > 0:47:10Grate it.
0:47:10 > 0:47:12No skimping of the ginger.
0:47:13 > 0:47:16Can have never enough.
0:47:16 > 0:47:18'Then the Asian seasoning.
0:47:18 > 0:47:21'A dash of soy, fish sauce and mirin,
0:47:21 > 0:47:24'and you can get all these in your supermarket,
0:47:24 > 0:47:26'and that's your vegetables done.
0:47:26 > 0:47:28'Next, the squid.'
0:47:30 > 0:47:33Squid must be really fresh, like the mackerel,
0:47:33 > 0:47:35so a really good fishmonger.
0:47:35 > 0:47:38Some people buy their fish from supermarkets,
0:47:38 > 0:47:41some people go to a fishmonger. I like to go to a fishmonger.
0:47:41 > 0:47:43I like to get to know my fishmonger.
0:47:43 > 0:47:47He becomes my good friend, he would never give me an old piece of fish.
0:47:47 > 0:47:48It's common sense.
0:47:48 > 0:47:51'Cut it into fine strips and cook quickly in boiling water.
0:47:51 > 0:47:54'Then put straight into iced, salted water
0:47:54 > 0:47:59'to stop the cooking any further, then our delicious mackerel.'
0:47:59 > 0:48:03If you are in a supermarket and are looking to buy some mackerel,
0:48:03 > 0:48:06you can always ask the fishmonger how old it is.
0:48:06 > 0:48:09It's a good indication of should you be eating it or not.
0:48:09 > 0:48:13Maximum two days and after that, it really starts to deteriorate.
0:48:14 > 0:48:17I'm taking off the mackerel skin in this recipe,
0:48:17 > 0:48:19because mackerel skin, when it's cooked,
0:48:19 > 0:48:22can be just a bit flabby and uninteresting.
0:48:22 > 0:48:25When you're cooking it in a pan, you can crisp it yourself,
0:48:25 > 0:48:27delicious!
0:48:27 > 0:48:30But as a stuffing inside that spring roll -
0:48:30 > 0:48:33hmm, would you like to eat some fish skin? Not really.
0:48:33 > 0:48:36'Now bring it all together.
0:48:36 > 0:48:39'Take a couple of sheets of spring roll pastry, or filo pastry,
0:48:39 > 0:48:44'and brush on a paste of rice flour and water around the edges.
0:48:44 > 0:48:49'Add in your vegetables and squid and your lovely raw mackerel.
0:48:49 > 0:48:51'Roll up, tucking the edges in halfway through...
0:48:54 > 0:48:56'..then pop in a deep-fat fryer.'
0:48:57 > 0:49:01So what you're looking for, for the roll, is a nice golden brown.
0:49:01 > 0:49:04Five minutes is plenty.
0:49:15 > 0:49:21'Mix together a little dipping sauce of soy, mirin, spring onion,
0:49:21 > 0:49:24'lime and grated ginger.'
0:49:26 > 0:49:29So, taking the roll...
0:49:29 > 0:49:31into that ginger, soy and spring onion.
0:49:37 > 0:49:41Mmm! What a great use for mackerel!
0:49:41 > 0:49:45The squid makes it even better,
0:49:45 > 0:49:48but the mackerel in this is fantastic!
0:49:48 > 0:49:51This is a real boy's dish.
0:49:51 > 0:49:56A football game, a beer, and a mackerel and squid roll.
0:49:56 > 0:49:58Enjoy!
0:49:58 > 0:49:59Mmm...
0:50:03 > 0:50:06We've followed the whole process through,
0:50:06 > 0:50:08from the canning of the mackerel to catching it live,
0:50:08 > 0:50:11but one of my favourites is the humble smoked mackerel.
0:50:13 > 0:50:17We've been smoking fish in Britain since the Middle Ages.
0:50:17 > 0:50:20Of course, it wasn't a flavour thing then.
0:50:20 > 0:50:21It was all about preserving food.
0:50:21 > 0:50:25I'm heading to John Milne's smoke house in Peterhead,
0:50:25 > 0:50:27which uses local mackerel.
0:50:32 > 0:50:34So this is the smoke house, John?
0:50:34 > 0:50:36This is The Old Smoke House in Peterhead.
0:50:36 > 0:50:39We've had this place about 40 years.
0:50:39 > 0:50:42And you yourself come from a family of smokers?
0:50:42 > 0:50:46We come from a family of fishermen, fish merchants and fish smokers.
0:50:46 > 0:50:50What we do is completely natural. The fish is washed
0:50:50 > 0:50:55in a sort of brine, and this gives a smooth surface,
0:50:55 > 0:50:59which enables the smoke to pervade all the way through,
0:50:59 > 0:51:03which is really the natural, old-fashioned way of doing it.
0:51:03 > 0:51:06I thought the old-fashioned way would be to put salt over the mackerel.
0:51:06 > 0:51:10We don't want to put salt in. We want to keep it as natural as possible.
0:51:10 > 0:51:16- So a healthy product as well, then? - I would like to think it's one of the healthiest products you could get.
0:51:16 > 0:51:20Salt is a method of preservation, smoke is a method of preservation -
0:51:20 > 0:51:24we're talking about very old-fashioned coastal methods.
0:51:24 > 0:51:27Scandinavia, Scotland, Ireland - smoke and salting
0:51:27 > 0:51:31has played a very important part in the coastal communities.
0:51:31 > 0:51:34Oh, I think that goes back hundreds of years, doesn't it?
0:51:34 > 0:51:38- It's religious, it's Friday, we had fish.- That's correct.
0:51:42 > 0:51:44'Once they've been brined,
0:51:44 > 0:51:47'they're laid out to dry then placed in the kiln.
0:51:47 > 0:51:51'John uses beech and oak sawdust to create a mellow, smoky flavour.'
0:51:51 > 0:51:54- So these are just...still warm. - Still warm.
0:51:54 > 0:51:59Out of the oven, I mean, absolutely perfect.
0:51:59 > 0:52:01This is a real treat, John.
0:52:02 > 0:52:03Mmm!
0:52:06 > 0:52:08It's divine.
0:52:08 > 0:52:10John, that's really delicious.
0:52:10 > 0:52:14Wow. It tastes so good, that mackerel.
0:52:14 > 0:52:17But that has to be up there as one of the great culinary treats.
0:52:23 > 0:52:29That hot smoked mackerel that John produces in this smoke house
0:52:29 > 0:52:34has to be one of the great foodie things I personally HAVE ever eaten.
0:52:34 > 0:52:38Why isn't the rest of Britain eating this as well? It's delicious!
0:52:38 > 0:52:43You can buy smoked mackerel cheaply in fishmongers and supermarkets,
0:52:43 > 0:52:46but how about trying to smoke it yourself?
0:52:46 > 0:52:50The last dish today I'll be cooking for you is one of my favourites.
0:52:50 > 0:52:54It's a tea-smoked mackerel with crab apple jelly.
0:52:58 > 0:53:01OK, first of all, for the crab apple jelly,
0:53:01 > 0:53:05we need some crab apples...
0:53:05 > 0:53:08sugar and some water.
0:53:08 > 0:53:11'Begin by cutting up your little crab apples.'
0:53:11 > 0:53:16Making a jelly like this is a great way of using up
0:53:16 > 0:53:20that bountiful supply of the crab apples.
0:53:20 > 0:53:23Or even pears, for that matter.
0:53:23 > 0:53:28This is a very simple jelly I'm making. It's just some water
0:53:28 > 0:53:32crab apples, the sugar...in.
0:53:32 > 0:53:36And let's be honest, crab apples are very British, very now.
0:53:36 > 0:53:38You can be as ambitious as you want -
0:53:38 > 0:53:40a little bit of ginger, a bit of star anise in there,
0:53:40 > 0:53:43you could put any flavouring, or even a dash of vinegar,
0:53:43 > 0:53:47some fresh coriander at the end, just to give it another edge.
0:53:47 > 0:53:49'Now for our delicious mackerel.
0:53:49 > 0:53:51'You'll need a few fillets.'
0:53:51 > 0:53:53Often when I'm fishing in Ireland on my holidays,
0:53:53 > 0:53:56I either bring some Japanese accompaniments,
0:53:56 > 0:53:59or I make up my own smokery, as I'm going to show you today.
0:53:59 > 0:54:04It's really simple, and there's nothing like a hot-smoked tea mackerel.
0:54:04 > 0:54:06It's a really easy recipe to follow.
0:54:06 > 0:54:09Failing that, you can always have it Japanese style - raw.
0:54:12 > 0:54:14To allow that smoke to penetrate the fish,
0:54:14 > 0:54:18just lightly score the back of the mackerel.
0:54:18 > 0:54:22Just cutting into the skin - not so deep into the flesh...
0:54:22 > 0:54:23just like that.
0:54:23 > 0:54:26'In Scotland, John had a whole kiln for smoking his fish.
0:54:26 > 0:54:28'My way is a bit simpler
0:54:28 > 0:54:30'and gives a different flavour.
0:54:30 > 0:54:34'You'll need a roasting tray, a cooling rack, some tinfoil,
0:54:34 > 0:54:37'and some ingredients to give it that smoky flavour.'
0:54:37 > 0:54:40I mean, the choice of mixture in the smoke is up to you.
0:54:40 > 0:54:45Equal quantities of rice, brown sugar, I'm using jasmine tea,
0:54:45 > 0:54:49you could use Earl Grey, you could use anything that you want.
0:54:49 > 0:54:54'The tea gives it a lovely flavour, as does the sugar,
0:54:54 > 0:54:56'a real caramel hint.
0:54:56 > 0:54:58'The rice just stops everything burning.
0:54:58 > 0:55:02'Turn the heat on and wait for the smoke to slowly rise.'
0:55:04 > 0:55:06We're going to season our mackerel now.
0:55:06 > 0:55:09We're going to place our fillets...
0:55:09 > 0:55:10on the top.
0:55:10 > 0:55:12Tinfoil.
0:55:16 > 0:55:20'It takes about five minutes for the mackerel to cook and flavour.'
0:55:20 > 0:55:24As you can see, the smoke starts to come up.
0:55:24 > 0:55:27I'm just going to open it for you, see what's happening.
0:55:29 > 0:55:34'Then turn off the heat and let the smoke continue to permeate the fish.
0:55:34 > 0:55:36'Back to the jelly. Grab a pestle and mortar,
0:55:36 > 0:55:42'or a bowl and the end of a rolling pin, and crush the cooked apples.
0:55:42 > 0:55:44'Then pour into some muslin and squeeze.'
0:55:44 > 0:55:48And it's that beautiful juice inside,
0:55:48 > 0:55:53and then you can use the back of the pestle
0:55:53 > 0:55:57just to squeeze out all the juice...
0:55:57 > 0:55:59from the crab apple.
0:55:59 > 0:56:02'To turn into jelly, it'll take about a day in the fridge,
0:56:02 > 0:56:05'but it'll be fine to use after a few hours.
0:56:05 > 0:56:08'It just won't have set properly.
0:56:08 > 0:56:12'To garnish, I'm tossing a few crab apples with sugar and butter
0:56:12 > 0:56:14'over some heat, with a splash of vinegar.'
0:56:21 > 0:56:24And that's our hot smoked mackerel with crab apple jelly,
0:56:24 > 0:56:29and the smell is divine. The sweetness of that crab apple jelly,
0:56:29 > 0:56:32little bit of tart, warm, salted apples on the side,
0:56:32 > 0:56:36some homemade, earthy bread with hot smoked mackerel -
0:56:36 > 0:56:38yum!
0:56:43 > 0:56:47If eating mackerel is to be revived, then we all need to play our part,
0:56:47 > 0:56:51and there are a lot of ways to learn more about this fabulous food.
0:56:51 > 0:56:55These fish fans are catching mackerel off the coast of Brighton.
0:56:55 > 0:56:57Oh! Look at that, the only one in the sea.
0:56:57 > 0:56:59I keep feeling like I've got a bite, but I don't.
0:56:59 > 0:57:03I don't have anything on there. I keep reeling them in and they're empty.
0:57:03 > 0:57:05- That's my second fish today. - Well done.
0:57:05 > 0:57:10If you're going to eat something, you should be able to catch it and kill it yourself.
0:57:10 > 0:57:13- It's a mackerel.- It is a mackerel. That is big enough to eat.
0:57:13 > 0:57:15That's a lovely one.
0:57:15 > 0:57:18It's been fantastic. Definitely not a sport for middle-aged men.
0:57:18 > 0:57:20Ooh, look out. That's when we get hurt.
0:57:20 > 0:57:23It's something which I would definitely and do again.
0:57:23 > 0:57:28Even the children as well, coming out on the sea today, beautiful blue sky and sunshine,
0:57:28 > 0:57:32it's so relaxing and it's really satisfying when you do catch a fish.
0:57:32 > 0:57:35But fishing is only the first half of the day.
0:57:35 > 0:57:39Back ashore, they're learning how to make sushi at this Japanese restaurant
0:57:39 > 0:57:41using mackerel they've just caught.
0:57:41 > 0:57:43First you always start with the tail.
0:57:43 > 0:57:47They learn how to fillet, prepare it and how to roll sushi.
0:57:47 > 0:57:51I always considered sushi being very difficult to make,
0:57:51 > 0:57:54but having seen the demonstration today,
0:57:54 > 0:57:56it's not so difficult actually.
0:57:56 > 0:58:00Your mackerel, put it in the middle like this.
0:58:00 > 0:58:02It's gorgeous eating the fresh mackerel sushi.
0:58:02 > 0:58:07It's the first time I've eaten fresh, raw mackerel. We just caught it about an hour or so ago.
0:58:07 > 0:58:10I've only ever had smoked mackerel pate before
0:58:10 > 0:58:13and tried a bit of smoked mackerel on a barbecue,
0:58:13 > 0:58:18so to actually have it fresh is absolutely gorgeous, really nice.
0:58:20 > 0:58:25What's with us? 90% of mackerel in Britain is exported.
0:58:25 > 0:58:30Nigeria, Egypt, Asia - what do they know that we don't?!
0:58:30 > 0:58:34Well, come on, Britain, start eating this fish.
0:58:34 > 0:58:37There's plenty of it, it's really cheap and it's ours.
0:58:43 > 0:58:48Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:48 > 0:58:54E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk