0:00:02 > 0:00:04We're here to put Britain on the food map.
0:00:04 > 0:00:07We're on a mission to save fantastic British produce from our extinction.
0:00:07 > 0:00:09But we need your help.
0:00:09 > 0:00:12Ingredients that have been here for centuries...
0:00:12 > 0:00:14..are in danger of disappearing...
0:00:14 > 0:00:15..for ever.
0:00:15 > 0:00:18We want to get everyone back to British culinary basics.
0:00:18 > 0:00:19And help us revive...
0:00:19 > 0:00:21Our fantastic...
0:00:21 > 0:00:23- Mouth-watering... - Magnificent...
0:00:23 > 0:00:28- Unique...- And quintessentially British food heritage.
0:01:04 > 0:01:08My name is Gary Rhodes and I'm here to kick-start the revival
0:01:08 > 0:01:14of this wonderful sweet jewel of a fruit, the British cherry.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17'Once the bastion of British summertime, with orchards
0:01:17 > 0:01:20'stretching over tens of thousands of acres, this gorgeous little fruit
0:01:20 > 0:01:23'has fallen foul of housing developers and foreign imports.'
0:01:23 > 0:01:28We've lost 90% of our old cherry orchards.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32It's a travesty and I want to find out what Earth has been going on.
0:01:32 > 0:01:36'As part of my campaign to revive the British cherry, I'll be finding out
0:01:36 > 0:01:41'how this innocuous, little plant is helping to revolutionise the industry.'
0:01:41 > 0:01:45- That bud, potentially, will grow a tree next year.- Seriously?
0:01:45 > 0:01:49'I'll rediscover heritage varieties on the verge of extinction.'
0:01:49 > 0:01:54It's rather like an antique. It's very special.
0:01:54 > 0:01:58'And, best of all, I'll be sharing my all-time-favourite cherry recipes,
0:01:58 > 0:02:01'including a delicious cherry clafoutis.'
0:02:03 > 0:02:06Now I know why cherries are my favourite of red fruits.
0:02:06 > 0:02:08They're so lively, it's really incredible.
0:02:13 > 0:02:18'At home as a child, the first sign of summer was picking cherries from the trees.'
0:02:18 > 0:02:23This brings back great old memories. That flavour that has never left me,
0:02:23 > 0:02:26I've never forgotten, is suddenly coming back.
0:02:26 > 0:02:32'But those orchards are mostly all gone now, bulldozed within an inch of their lives,
0:02:32 > 0:02:36'leaving supermarket shelves wide open to imports.'
0:02:36 > 0:02:41It really is tragic to think that 90% of all cherries enjoyed in this country
0:02:41 > 0:02:46are imported and not taken from these home-grown.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53'I'm determined to change things.'
0:02:53 > 0:02:58'so I'm starting my revival here on my doorstep in Teynham, Kent -
0:02:58 > 0:03:03'the Garden of England and one-time home to the UK's cherry industry.'
0:03:05 > 0:03:09It was right here in these streets that the very first cherry orchard
0:03:09 > 0:03:12was planted by Henry VIII in 1533.
0:03:12 > 0:03:15But, like most of our cherry heritage,
0:03:15 > 0:03:19the orchard that stood here for 500 years has been lost.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23'All that's left here are reminders of varieties once grown and picked here.'
0:03:23 > 0:03:27'A way of life not forgotten by locals like Don Vaughan.'
0:03:27 > 0:03:32Hello, Don. 'Who has worked in the cherry industry for 30 years.'
0:03:32 > 0:03:38After 500 years of this orchard standing, why did it diminish so quickly?
0:03:38 > 0:03:40There are various reasons.
0:03:40 > 0:03:42Obviously, the trees were getting older.
0:03:42 > 0:03:44They were huge trees, 60ft tall.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47They had to be picked by women on tall ladders.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50Health and safety would have come into it,
0:03:50 > 0:03:52because it was dangerous going up trees
0:03:52 > 0:03:57and you couldn't control the verge on the high tree, so you lost crop.
0:03:57 > 0:04:01But fortunately, now, acreage is increasing
0:04:01 > 0:04:05because of the new systems that are being put in place.
0:04:05 > 0:04:08So it's a good news story, but it was pretty dire at one stage.
0:04:08 > 0:04:11'So things are on the up, but not as much as I'd like
0:04:11 > 0:04:15'and without the space to grow them, or the manpower to pick them,
0:04:15 > 0:04:19'our old-fashioned cherry varieties are in danger of disappearing.
0:04:19 > 0:04:22It's so nice to be walking through a traditional cherry orchard.
0:04:22 > 0:04:25This really does remind me of my childhood.
0:04:25 > 0:04:29This really revives all my memories of my youth,
0:04:29 > 0:04:33because we were surrounded by orchards similar to this.
0:04:33 > 0:04:36With trees of this sort of stature, or larger.
0:04:38 > 0:04:40That is huge, isn't it?
0:04:40 > 0:04:43- How old is that, 100 years, more? - 100 years or more, yes.
0:04:43 > 0:04:47When I was picking these trees as a youngster, with my parents,
0:04:47 > 0:04:49we called them "skin-and-stone" varieties.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53Because there's a lot of skin, a lot of stone and not a lot of flesh.
0:04:53 > 0:04:55But there was a very distinct flavour.
0:04:55 > 0:04:58'And it's this true cherry flavour that I want to revive.'
0:04:58 > 0:05:02In the imports I've had to purchase over the years,
0:05:02 > 0:05:06because there's been no British cherries around, they are shallow.
0:05:06 > 0:05:11Often quite watery. I think, "Where is that great, old taste gone?"
0:05:11 > 0:05:13That's what I really want to try.
0:05:13 > 0:05:16So I'm going to have a pinch off the trees, if that's OK!
0:05:16 > 0:05:17'I simply can't resist.'
0:05:17 > 0:05:19'It's like being in a sweet shop.'
0:05:19 > 0:05:23'Surrounded by all these cherries and I can't wait to get stuck in.'
0:05:23 > 0:05:27This really is back to old childhood, coming on,
0:05:27 > 0:05:30then just hanging over like this, so you can pinch away at them.
0:05:30 > 0:05:34They look lovely. They've got that lovely texture. Wonderful.
0:05:34 > 0:05:38They're nature's little health pack. Because they're full of antioxidants,
0:05:38 > 0:05:41packed with vitamins C, anti-inflammatory,
0:05:41 > 0:05:43they're good for arthritis,
0:05:43 > 0:05:45so you can't wish for more in a little package.
0:05:45 > 0:05:48They might hold all those values
0:05:48 > 0:05:51but I tell you one thing, they hold stacks of flavour.
0:05:51 > 0:05:55'It's been a real treat rediscovering the cherries of my childhood.'
0:05:55 > 0:05:58'British cherries really are my favourite soft fruits
0:05:58 > 0:06:03'and I want you to experience their unforgettable taste, too,
0:06:03 > 0:06:05'so next time they're in season, buy British.'
0:06:05 > 0:06:09'There really is no better and there's so much you can do with them.'
0:06:09 > 0:06:13The first recipe I'm going to cook is a little bit different.
0:06:13 > 0:06:15If you've bought so many and you can't eat them all,
0:06:15 > 0:06:17this is the perfect dish to try.
0:06:17 > 0:06:19It's warm cherry soup.
0:06:23 > 0:06:27The first thing you have to do is stone some cherries.
0:06:27 > 0:06:30'Take it from me, this sweet and savoury soup is a brilliant talking point
0:06:30 > 0:06:32'to kick off any meal.'
0:06:32 > 0:06:34'You'll need roughly a kilo of cherries.'
0:06:34 > 0:06:36'I'm using Regina,
0:06:36 > 0:06:41'a modern British variety with lots of soft, juicy flesh.'
0:06:41 > 0:06:44I'm very lucky, because I've got a nice gadget that makes it easy.
0:06:44 > 0:06:50Simply popping the cherry on and push away like that
0:06:50 > 0:06:53and out comes the stone. Really quite simple.
0:06:53 > 0:06:59If you don't have one of these nice, little machines, a knife or do.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03It's really very easy. 'And don't throw away the stones.'
0:07:03 > 0:07:07'They have a nice almond flavour, a brilliant natural way to flavour the soup.'
0:07:07 > 0:07:10All you're going to need is a tablespoon or two.
0:07:10 > 0:07:14'Lightly crushed with a rolling pin and tied up in muslin.'
0:07:14 > 0:07:17It is delicious. We've got the cherries. Just going to pop those in.
0:07:17 > 0:07:24These have been stoned and, notice, I'm not chopping them down any smaller, just leaving them in whole.
0:07:24 > 0:07:28'With a glass of red wine and a splash or two of port.'
0:07:28 > 0:07:31Not essential, but does add another edge to it.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35'Then some water, about 200 mils should do it.'
0:07:35 > 0:07:37'A couple of tablespoons of caster sugar
0:07:37 > 0:07:40'and my secret ingredient, some cherry jam.'
0:07:40 > 0:07:46One of my favourites. Absolutely love it. Of course, what you get from the jam
0:07:46 > 0:07:49is the fruit flavour, as well as the extra sweetness.
0:07:49 > 0:07:51Next, cinnamon stick, we'll pop that in.
0:07:51 > 0:07:56'Along with a sliver of lemon zest to enhance the citrus in the cherries
0:07:56 > 0:07:59'and salt and pepper to give the soup its savoury edge.'
0:08:01 > 0:08:04And now the last ingredient to be added is the crushed stones.
0:08:04 > 0:08:06'For their almond-like taste.'
0:08:06 > 0:08:10We can turn this on. Start to heat it up.
0:08:10 > 0:08:13'And leave it to simmer until the cherries slightly soften.'
0:08:16 > 0:08:20'Then, ten minutes later, take it off the heat,
0:08:20 > 0:08:23'ready to blitz, minus the pips, cinnamon and zest.'
0:08:23 > 0:08:29Right, let's see if this is going to be cool enough. I think it is.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31If you can touch the sides of the pans, it will be ready.
0:08:31 > 0:08:36'The last thing you want to do is liquidise when it's too hot, and here's another tip for you.'
0:08:36 > 0:08:38Don't put too much in at once.
0:08:38 > 0:08:41You've got that huge risk of it bursting out of the top,
0:08:41 > 0:08:43something we don't want.
0:08:46 > 0:08:50'I always put a tea towel on top, too, as an extra precaution.'
0:08:56 > 0:08:58'Strain it to get rid of any unwanted lumps.'
0:08:58 > 0:09:03'It may seem like a stage too far, but, trust me, it's worth it.'
0:09:03 > 0:09:06Look at that. You can see that kind of texture.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10It's thick. It smells absolutely delicious.
0:09:10 > 0:09:14'And looks stunning, too. Served in a quirky cup and saucer,
0:09:14 > 0:09:18'a great starter at any dinner party.'
0:09:18 > 0:09:22Look at the consistency. You can see, the way it drops out.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26There we are, plenty. 'And you can't have soup without bread.'
0:09:26 > 0:09:31'I'm serving walnut toast to complement the almond flavour released by the stones.'
0:09:31 > 0:09:34Just pop a couple of those on the side.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37'Finish it off with a dollop of sour cream to balance out the sweetness.'
0:09:37 > 0:09:41It really does complement the soup.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45'Now who wouldn't want to dive into that?'
0:09:47 > 0:09:52So let's just dunk in a piece of this walnut bread.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54Into the soup.
0:09:54 > 0:09:57Capturing a little touch of that sour cream, as well.
0:10:00 > 0:10:01Mm.
0:10:01 > 0:10:03Oh!
0:10:03 > 0:10:05Do you know...
0:10:06 > 0:10:10..now I know why cherries are my favourite of red fruits.
0:10:10 > 0:10:13They also lively, it's really quite incredible.
0:10:13 > 0:10:17So much flavour and, of course, when you've got that little sourness behind it,
0:10:17 > 0:10:19that's added from the cream,
0:10:19 > 0:10:22it really does give it a totally different personality.
0:10:22 > 0:10:23It's wonderful.
0:10:23 > 0:10:25I absolutely adore it.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28It's so simple to make. It's so delicious to eat.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35'I want to help revive the good old British cherry,
0:10:35 > 0:10:39'an ingredient in decline, largely due to the height of the trees.'
0:10:39 > 0:10:45'I'm en route to Worcestershire to meet a grower who's pioneered a revolutionary growing technique
0:10:45 > 0:10:48'that's helping to bring the British cherry back from the brink.'
0:10:48 > 0:10:5315 years ago, the British cherry industry had been brought to its knees.
0:10:53 > 0:10:58It needed a saviour and this is it, Gisela 5.
0:10:58 > 0:11:02With a name from science fiction, this innocuous plant had quite some task.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06That was to revolutionise the production of British cherries.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10'And it's done so by dwarfing the modern cherry tree,
0:11:10 > 0:11:14'allowing British growers to overcome the problems of the past.'
0:11:14 > 0:11:17- Hello, Nick.- Hello, Gary. - Good to see you.
0:11:17 > 0:11:20- Thank you for coming.- What a view. Really quite incredible.
0:11:20 > 0:11:22How many acres does this cover?
0:11:22 > 0:11:27We've got about 400 acres here. It's prime nursery land.
0:11:27 > 0:11:30And we grow about half a million trees year.
0:11:30 > 0:11:35So it is from here that the rebirth of the cherry began?
0:11:35 > 0:11:41Yes, indeed. What we needed was a small, productive tree that would produce
0:11:41 > 0:11:45heavy yield and good quality fruit. So we all took a risk.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48The nurseries, the fruit growers, the whole industry
0:11:48 > 0:11:52put trees out on trial and it had to prove itself.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56And that's what it did in the late '90s and beginning of the century.
0:11:56 > 0:12:01'And it's been a big success, creating small trees that can be easily harvested,
0:12:01 > 0:12:05'allowing British cherry growers to compete with foreign imports.'
0:12:05 > 0:12:09How are these plans put together? What exactly do you've to do?
0:12:09 > 0:12:12The fruit trees are made up of two parts.
0:12:12 > 0:12:15The rootstock and then the variety and we put the two together.
0:12:15 > 0:12:17It's as simple as that.
0:12:17 > 0:12:18Is it really as simple as that?
0:12:18 > 0:12:21Well, it takes a certain amount of skill and time.
0:12:21 > 0:12:23Are you going to show me how that's done?
0:12:23 > 0:12:25That's what we'll show you now.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27Let's take a look.
0:12:27 > 0:12:31'First, cuttings are taken from commercially viable cherry trees,
0:12:31 > 0:12:34modern varieties that produce the biggest, juiciest,
0:12:34 > 0:12:37sweetest fruit possible to appeal to the mass market.'
0:12:37 > 0:12:39So this is the mother orchard?
0:12:39 > 0:12:41It is, yes.
0:12:41 > 0:12:45Underneath each leaf stalk you'll see there's a bud.
0:12:45 > 0:12:46Yes, yes.
0:12:46 > 0:12:50That bud will potentially grow a tree next year.
0:12:50 > 0:12:51Seriously?
0:12:51 > 0:12:55'It's inspirational stuff, a kind of Frankenstein technique that sees
0:12:55 > 0:12:59cutting from the mother Orchard tree, grafted onto the Gisela five root.'
0:12:59 > 0:13:02So basically they've been cut exactly the same size
0:13:02 > 0:13:06because we're simply going to gel the two together like that. Is that right?
0:13:06 > 0:13:09That's right. It's just a quick dip up and down.
0:13:09 > 0:13:14So this will keep them alive together with the wax covering it?
0:13:14 > 0:13:15Yes, that's right.
0:13:15 > 0:13:20That tree will then grow from this bud from the top and produce a tree.
0:13:20 > 0:13:21Amazing.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24'A tree that will be nurtured here for two years
0:13:24 > 0:13:28and never get taller than ten feet and allowing British cherry growers
0:13:28 > 0:13:31to supply our supermarkets with plenty of home-grown fruit.'
0:13:31 > 0:13:34That's where the bud was put on a year ago.
0:13:34 > 0:13:37And the graft grew out of the rootstock
0:13:37 > 0:13:40and it's dug up this summer.
0:13:40 > 0:13:42It's phenomenal isn't it?
0:13:42 > 0:13:46So how much do you think the Gisela five has changed the British market
0:13:46 > 0:13:50as far as cherry production is concerned?
0:13:50 > 0:13:55It's made it successful, profitable and with a long-term future.
0:13:55 > 0:13:56That's nice to hear.
0:13:56 > 0:13:59From seeing all of this, the next thing I want to see
0:13:59 > 0:14:02is the production of the cherry itself.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05So I think I'm going to have to make that little visit to
0:14:05 > 0:14:07the county next door in Herefordshire.
0:14:07 > 0:14:12'Where commercial cherry grower, Simon Wells, is using mixed trees
0:14:12 > 0:14:15'to produce award-winning cherries for two major supermarkets.'
0:14:15 > 0:14:20'Cherries that are far bigger and juicier than the heritage varieties
0:14:20 > 0:14:22'I remember picking as a lad.'
0:14:22 > 0:14:25This is something I've been so looking forward to.
0:14:25 > 0:14:30And automatically I am quite shocked at the size of some of these cherries.
0:14:30 > 0:14:32What variety is this?
0:14:32 > 0:14:33These are Regina.
0:14:33 > 0:14:36< Amazing! And how many varieties do you grow here?
0:14:36 > 0:14:40We've about 20 varieties, it spreads the season for us.
0:14:40 > 0:14:44We start off with Sunburst, a lovely juicy, traditional variety.
0:14:44 > 0:14:48Then move to summer sun, Stella and then we're moving into the later
0:14:48 > 0:14:52cherries, Regina, Cordia, some of the best cherries in the world.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55Are they all grown from the Gisela five root?
0:14:55 > 0:15:00Yes, it's Gisela five rootstock that's given us the confidence to plant cherries
0:15:00 > 0:15:02and carry on with a cherry business in the UK.
0:15:02 > 0:15:08What about a demand from all of the big superstores and so forth?
0:15:08 > 0:15:12< The growth of rain covers has given the confidence
0:15:12 > 0:15:15for the supermarkets to realise when we tell them the year before
0:15:15 > 0:15:19we'll have a tonnage of cherries and we'll deliver a tonnage of cherries.
0:15:19 > 0:15:22< And that's what the old traditional varieties couldn't do.
0:15:22 > 0:15:26What's the future of the British cherry? Where do you see it heading?
0:15:26 > 0:15:29We're getting into niche cherries, larger sizes,
0:15:29 > 0:15:32different flavours, different eating experience.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36Some people like sharper, some juicier, some like it sweeter.
0:15:36 > 0:15:38I can still see a growth in British cherries.
0:15:38 > 0:15:39People love cherries.
0:15:39 > 0:15:41You're proud to actually grow them,
0:15:41 > 0:15:45I want now the British public to be proud of actually purchasing them.
0:15:45 > 0:15:48But there's still such a long way to go for us
0:15:48 > 0:15:52to compete with the imports and all of those competitors out there.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56We need to show them what a true cherry tastes like.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59Yeah, a juicy, eating experience rather than your imported,
0:15:59 > 0:16:01crunchy out of season product.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03You've said it in one sentence.
0:16:03 > 0:16:07'So the British cherry industry is starting to make a comeback.
0:16:07 > 0:16:10'Albeit with new modern varieties and I am dying to try them.'
0:16:10 > 0:16:14It's time to pick some cherries.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17'It's been a real inspiration meeting the people behind these new
0:16:17 > 0:16:21techniques, and tracing the modern British cherry from room to plate.'
0:16:21 > 0:16:24And this is what we have in return...
0:16:27 > 0:16:31Look at the shine on those, they're phenomenal.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34And the beauty of it is, it's going to work with just about any
0:16:34 > 0:16:36ingredient, savoury or sweet.
0:16:36 > 0:16:39It's so versatile, I can't wait to cook with it.
0:16:39 > 0:16:42'And cherries freeze brilliantly,
0:16:42 > 0:16:44so you can stock up when they're in season
0:16:44 > 0:16:47and eat them all year round in recipes like this one.'
0:16:47 > 0:16:51For our main course to go with our cherries we're going to have roast duck.
0:16:51 > 0:16:53Roast duck and cherries is quite a classic,
0:16:53 > 0:16:56and of course there was always the duck and orange.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59Here I'm going to use a little touch of the orange
0:16:59 > 0:17:01in with this dish, it really is sensational to eat.
0:17:01 > 0:17:05And this is called roast duck breast with a cherry compote dressing.
0:17:08 > 0:17:09'First things first,
0:17:09 > 0:17:13score your duck breast and get them on to cook.'
0:17:13 > 0:17:17I'm actually going to pop these in when the pan is still cold.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20So the reason for that is as it heats up in the pan,
0:17:20 > 0:17:23it helps release those excess fats we don't want.
0:17:23 > 0:17:27Rather than sealing the fat instantly if the pan is too hot.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30'Leaving you with nice crispy pieces of duck.'
0:17:30 > 0:17:33The next thing is the cherry compote dressing.
0:17:33 > 0:17:38'And for this I'm using Simon's fantastic Regina cherries, stoned and halved.'
0:17:38 > 0:17:39If you leave them whole,
0:17:39 > 0:17:42they tend to burst and break down into little pieces.
0:17:42 > 0:17:44That's why it's best to halve them.
0:17:44 > 0:17:49Now here, I've got just some red onion that's been simmering
0:17:49 > 0:17:51in a little knob of butter.
0:17:51 > 0:17:52'And the juice of one orange'.
0:17:52 > 0:17:56You can see it's really reduced down now, so in with the cherries.
0:17:56 > 0:18:01'And you don't have to use fresh, as long as they're British, of course!'
0:18:01 > 0:18:05Using frozen cherries for this will work equally well.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10Right, next thing let's have a look at the duck.
0:18:10 > 0:18:14You can see now the kind of colour we're getting
0:18:14 > 0:18:18and starting to achieve that little crisp on the outside.
0:18:18 > 0:18:20'They're ready to turn'.
0:18:20 > 0:18:22'Now my secret ingredient'.
0:18:22 > 0:18:25'I'm going to flambe the cherries and a little bit of Kirsch.'
0:18:25 > 0:18:28'Cherry flavoured liqueur, to give that extra kick.'
0:18:28 > 0:18:30A little touch and there we have it,
0:18:30 > 0:18:33that's all we're going to need.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38'And last, two ingredients that complement cherries brilliantly.
0:18:38 > 0:18:41A large glass of red wine and more cherry jam.'
0:18:44 > 0:18:49So let's just let that reduce down until we've a good, syrup, dressing consistency.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52'It won't take long and while you wait,
0:18:52 > 0:18:56'you can get the duck out to rest and start plating up.'
0:18:56 > 0:19:00Right, first thing, is of course cutting the duck.
0:19:02 > 0:19:07'You could serve it whole, but I like to cut it lengthways,
0:19:07 > 0:19:08'then across into chunks.'
0:19:13 > 0:19:16Let's take a look at the cherries.
0:19:16 > 0:19:19Now these have really softened wonderfully.
0:19:19 > 0:19:21Right, let's start to create.
0:19:21 > 0:19:28We can dot some nice little chunks of our duck
0:19:28 > 0:19:31keeping it really quite rustic,
0:19:31 > 0:19:34pop a few cherries just around the dish.
0:19:34 > 0:19:38'Gently spoon on the warm cherry dressing, serve with sauteed
0:19:38 > 0:19:42'turnips for texture and crunch and seasonal chanterelle mushrooms.'
0:19:42 > 0:19:44Just scattered.
0:19:44 > 0:19:49'Some baby spinach leaves and top it up with an orange and herb butter.'
0:19:51 > 0:19:56There we've roast duck breast with a cherry compote dressing.
0:19:59 > 0:20:00Hmmm.
0:20:00 > 0:20:06The flavour of that fruit is quite sensational.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08They really are that good and so versatile.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11The taste of the cherry amongst all the flavours,
0:20:11 > 0:20:13it still comes through the number one.
0:20:13 > 0:20:15That's how good they are.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23'It's been a huge relief to discover that our British
0:20:23 > 0:20:25'cherry growers are fighting back.
0:20:25 > 0:20:29'But there's another problem, they're not growing our heritage varieties.'
0:20:29 > 0:20:34'Cherries like the ones clinging on in an old orchard in Linstead.'
0:20:34 > 0:20:37I'm now back in Kent in this fantastic cherry orchard
0:20:37 > 0:20:41and I'm here to discover these...
0:20:41 > 0:20:43Our British heritage cherries.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48'14 varieties are being preserved here at Park farm.'
0:20:48 > 0:20:51'It's a traditional orchard that's been brought back from the brink
0:20:51 > 0:20:55'by local residents who hold all sorts of events here throughout the year.'
0:20:55 > 0:20:58So, what do you think would have happened to this orchard
0:20:58 > 0:21:01if the local community didn't support it?
0:21:01 > 0:21:04It would have been one of those orchards which would have
0:21:04 > 0:21:08sat along the road with all these cherries in it.
0:21:08 > 0:21:11And sadly, people not really being able to appreciate it
0:21:11 > 0:21:13and learn about and enjoy them.
0:21:13 > 0:21:15'Thanks to their efforts,
0:21:15 > 0:21:19'heritage cherries should blossom here for generations to come.'
0:21:19 > 0:21:22How would you describe the heritage as far as the cherry is concerned?
0:21:22 > 0:21:26Heritage Cherry is one of these large trees.
0:21:26 > 0:21:31An original tree which was grown 60, 70 years ago,
0:21:31 > 0:21:33and going back 400 years.
0:21:33 > 0:21:38But it's rather like an antique, it's very special.
0:21:38 > 0:21:40So it's the true original?
0:21:40 > 0:21:43It's the true original, absolutely, yes.
0:21:43 > 0:21:45Lots of little tales behind them.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49The variety Waterloo, that's a classic cherry.
0:21:49 > 0:21:53That was bred by Mr Knight in Herefordshire.
0:21:53 > 0:21:58And when it first started fruiting, that was literally just after
0:21:58 > 0:22:01the Battle of Waterloo, so he named it Waterloo.
0:22:01 > 0:22:02What a classic.
0:22:02 > 0:22:04Absolutely.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06And that also dates it.
0:22:06 > 0:22:09That's the great thing, not only do they have texture, flavour
0:22:09 > 0:22:12and a bit of character, they've great names and titles to go with it.
0:22:12 > 0:22:18And interestingly, every single bite from every variety is going to give you something different.
0:22:18 > 0:22:22So we have passionate people helping our few surviving cherry orchards,
0:22:22 > 0:22:26and now our commercial growers have a tree they can rely on,
0:22:26 > 0:22:31hopefully it won't be too long before they start experimenting with old varieties.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34So surely there IS a future for the British cherry.
0:22:34 > 0:22:37There's even an annual cherry competition in Maidstone,
0:22:37 > 0:22:41where the mainstays of the industry gather to award the best of the best.
0:22:41 > 0:22:43When I'm looking at the taste of a cherry,
0:22:43 > 0:22:46I'm looking firstly for proper cherry flavour,
0:22:46 > 0:22:50that really clear cherry taste. Secondly, sweetness and succulence,
0:22:50 > 0:22:55but thirdly, a bit of body and crunch to the fruit as well.
0:22:55 > 0:23:00That's what I'm looking for, flavour and texture and a bit of sweetness.
0:23:00 > 0:23:04And one grower eager to find out how his modern varieties have done this year is Simon Wells.
0:23:04 > 0:23:09I got up at three this morning having got to bed at ten last night polishing them,
0:23:09 > 0:23:12to leave Herefordshire and deliver them for eight this morning,
0:23:12 > 0:23:14I'm very keen to see how I've done!
0:23:14 > 0:23:17He's up for Best In Show, a category he won last year.
0:23:22 > 0:23:26Here we are, we've done it again. Beautiful, superb!
0:23:26 > 0:23:29It's great to see our growers rewarded for their efforts,
0:23:29 > 0:23:32and you can support them too by buying British cherries,
0:23:32 > 0:23:35and showing them off in recipes like this one.
0:23:35 > 0:23:38It's a pudding which holds a very special place in my heart.
0:23:38 > 0:23:42This dessert I'm going to cook for you is really quite romantic.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45If you want to impress your partner, this is the one to make.
0:23:45 > 0:23:47It's called a cherry clafoutis.
0:23:51 > 0:23:53It's an incredibly simple dish
0:23:53 > 0:23:56that I've been making since my student days.
0:23:56 > 0:24:00It starts with a couple of egg yolks, whisked together with sugar.
0:24:03 > 0:24:08I always remember making this for my wife when we first met.
0:24:08 > 0:24:11Two young chefs together, and she loved it.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13We still cook it quite a lot today,
0:24:13 > 0:24:15particularly during the cherry season.
0:24:15 > 0:24:19It's become a real family favourite.
0:24:19 > 0:24:21Right, next, I'm going to add some flour.
0:24:21 > 0:24:25'About 40 grams should do it. Plain, not self-raising.'
0:24:25 > 0:24:28And it's best always just to pop it through that sieve,
0:24:28 > 0:24:33because then it's going to mix in an awful lot easier
0:24:33 > 0:24:37into the egg mix, and you will notice how quick and easy this is,
0:24:37 > 0:24:39and that's the beauty of it.
0:24:39 > 0:24:42You can see, by using that sieve,
0:24:42 > 0:24:45how quickly that flour has become smooth throughout this batter.
0:24:45 > 0:24:49'All it needs now is some milk and cream.'
0:24:51 > 0:24:54Equal quantities, just pop it in together.
0:24:54 > 0:24:56'And that's it. Told you it was simple!'
0:24:58 > 0:25:03It's always a good idea whenever you're making a batter to allow it to rest for a few minutes.
0:25:03 > 0:25:05Maybe up to 10 minutes will be more than enough.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08'Then you can get it into its dish.'
0:25:08 > 0:25:13You'll notice I've lightly buttered it and sprinkled in a little caster sugar.
0:25:13 > 0:25:15'This will stop it sticking.'
0:25:15 > 0:25:17Right, cherries. These are stoned,
0:25:17 > 0:25:20but in France when they first started making this,
0:25:20 > 0:25:22they used to leave the stones in.
0:25:22 > 0:25:25But I feel, when you're cooking for the whole family,
0:25:25 > 0:25:31you've got to be a bit careful for the children, so I always take them out.
0:25:31 > 0:25:35Right now, in with the batter. We can just gently pour this in.
0:25:38 > 0:25:41Look at that. Just leaving the tops of those cherries exposed.
0:25:41 > 0:25:44'All you need to do now is get it into a hot oven.'
0:25:44 > 0:25:47Here we go, let's pop that in.
0:25:50 > 0:25:56'Put you feet up with a coffee or two, and 20 minutes later,
0:25:56 > 0:25:58'you'll have a dessert to die for.'
0:26:01 > 0:26:03Right, it's now ready.
0:26:03 > 0:26:07Ready to take out and show you exactly how a clafoutis should look.
0:26:08 > 0:26:11Delicious. It's time to eat.
0:26:15 > 0:26:19Do you know, I'm so looking forward to tucking into this cherry clafoutis,
0:26:19 > 0:26:26this wonderful pudding which has got that really lovely, sweet texture.
0:26:26 > 0:26:27Look at that.
0:26:27 > 0:26:30You can see that pudding, it really is quite sensational.
0:26:30 > 0:26:35'For even more of a treat, serve with a dollop of vanilla cream.'
0:26:35 > 0:26:38Just that, plonked on top as it starts to melt.
0:26:41 > 0:26:43Mm, what flavours.
0:26:43 > 0:26:47You know, it's almost like eating a warm custard pudding without the pastry.
0:26:47 > 0:26:48Absolutely delicious.
0:26:48 > 0:26:51And you can imagine, with the richness of the fruit,
0:26:51 > 0:26:53that wonderful cherry, it's outstanding.
0:26:57 > 0:27:00So apart from buying and cooking British cherries
0:27:00 > 0:27:03when they're in season, what can you do to help?
0:27:03 > 0:27:06Well, you could buy a Heritage tree and grow it at home.
0:27:06 > 0:27:10There are plenty of varieties to choose from online
0:27:10 > 0:27:12or at specialist nurseries, like this one.
0:27:12 > 0:27:16Cherry tree-wise, we probably sell about 500-600 a year,
0:27:16 > 0:27:20just seven varieties, five of which are English varieties.
0:27:20 > 0:27:23Morello, which is a lovely cooker,
0:27:23 > 0:27:26May Duke, which is a fantastic cherry,
0:27:26 > 0:27:31Merton Premier, Napoleon, which is my personal favourite,
0:27:31 > 0:27:32and Early Rivers.
0:27:32 > 0:27:36And you can do it right now, even if you don't have a lot of space.
0:27:36 > 0:27:41Nowadays, with container growing, you can plant right through the year,
0:27:41 > 0:27:46so it is as easy as being able to plant whether it be in the middle of winter,
0:27:46 > 0:27:48or planting right through the summer months.
0:27:48 > 0:27:50And here's a tip for free.
0:27:50 > 0:27:53To keep the birds away, my favourite one is,
0:27:53 > 0:27:57all those annoying CDs you get in the magazines and things like that -
0:27:57 > 0:27:58hang them on the trees.
0:27:58 > 0:28:00Birds hate CDs flashing around on the tree.
0:28:00 > 0:28:04That's probably my favourite way of keeping the birds away from my cherries.
0:28:04 > 0:28:07If you really haven't got the space at home,
0:28:07 > 0:28:10branch out and grow them in your local community.
0:28:10 > 0:28:13I'm Ruth Burns, the parent governor at the primary school
0:28:13 > 0:28:16and I'm responsible for our school garden, which we got a grant for.
0:28:16 > 0:28:20This is the Napoleon Cherry tree.
0:28:20 > 0:28:25We chose this one because it has red and yellow cherries and it's also a local Kent cherry.
0:28:25 > 0:28:29This is a rural school, it's important that the children are in touch with their environment,
0:28:29 > 0:28:33growing things, knowing where all sorts of fruit comes from.
0:28:33 > 0:28:39And cherries are just beautiful trees - beautiful blossom, lovely fruit, what's not to like?
0:28:39 > 0:28:42I couldn't have put it better myself!
0:28:42 > 0:28:45This has been a wonderful, uplifting experience for me.
0:28:45 > 0:28:50I've really come to understand the complex issues in producing this gorgeous fruit.
0:28:50 > 0:28:54And whilst it's tragic we've lost so many of our beautiful cherry orchards,
0:28:54 > 0:28:57some are fighting on, and desperately need your support.
0:28:57 > 0:29:00So please, when they're in season,
0:29:00 > 0:29:03revel in that taste of summer all over again
0:29:03 > 0:29:05and fall back in love with the cherry.
0:29:06 > 0:29:11Now here's another foodie who wants to wet your appetite
0:29:11 > 0:29:15with the amazing possibilities of another underrated Great British food.
0:29:21 > 0:29:25My name is Yotam Ottolenghi and I'm a chef and a food writer.
0:29:25 > 0:29:31I'm originally from Israel, but I love cooking with local, British produce.
0:29:32 > 0:29:34But there is one local ingredient that we seem to be forgetting.
0:29:34 > 0:29:39One variety has been here since the Ice Age, and is mostly produced here.
0:29:39 > 0:29:44The other was brought here by the Romans, but we import nearly 100% of them.
0:29:44 > 0:29:48I'm talking about these. British nuts.
0:29:48 > 0:29:52People seem to have completely forgotten about them.
0:29:52 > 0:29:55A whole slice of British heritage could be lost for ever
0:29:55 > 0:29:57if we don't act now.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03In my attempt to put this British produce firmly back on the food map,
0:30:03 > 0:30:06we'll be meeting people who are nutty about nuts.
0:30:06 > 0:30:10Nuttery sounds like a fantastic fairytale land!
0:30:10 > 0:30:14I'll be introducing you to the amazing history of British cob nuts.
0:30:14 > 0:30:17- The first time it's been tasted for a long time.- Really?
0:30:17 > 0:30:20And I'll be opening my book on the dishes that make the most
0:30:20 > 0:30:23of these exquisite little British delights.
0:30:23 > 0:30:26It's a real revelation for me, it's just wonderful.
0:30:34 > 0:30:35Take it from me.
0:30:35 > 0:30:39Nuts are a secret weapon in the five London restaurants I run.
0:30:39 > 0:30:42I can't think of a day when they haven't been an ingredient.
0:30:42 > 0:30:45They enhance flavours and texture, from salads to cakes.
0:30:45 > 0:30:49A world without nuts is a world without flavour.
0:30:49 > 0:30:51But do we even know where they come from?
0:30:51 > 0:30:56I think nuts are grown in, um...
0:30:56 > 0:30:59- Brazil.- India. Africa.
0:30:59 > 0:31:01A warm climate?
0:31:01 > 0:31:03- Indonesia?- Africa.
0:31:03 > 0:31:05- America? - Not in England?
0:31:09 > 0:31:11It's true that nuts normally grow in warmer climates,
0:31:11 > 0:31:15but cob nuts and walnuts do grow perfectly well in this country.
0:31:15 > 0:31:18And they're nice when they're fresh, there's nothing like a fresh nut,
0:31:18 > 0:31:21it doesn't have the dustiness of the imported varieties.
0:31:21 > 0:31:27When I was growing up, my friend and I used to climb the neighbour's tree and get fresh walnuts off the tree.
0:31:27 > 0:31:30Our hands used to turn completely brown, it was quite awful,
0:31:30 > 0:31:34but there's nothing like a fresh walnut when it comes off the tree and it's in season.
0:31:34 > 0:31:38However, Britain has quietly forgotten the taste
0:31:38 > 0:31:43for its native nuts, and I want to help you rediscover their flavour.
0:31:43 > 0:31:46So I'm taking a road trip around southern England to uncover
0:31:46 > 0:31:48an overlooked heritage,
0:31:48 > 0:31:50starting with British walnuts.
0:31:50 > 0:31:53Alan has been growing them for over 30 years,
0:31:53 > 0:31:55but just how long have they been in Britain?
0:31:55 > 0:32:00Supposedly the Romans brought them, there does appear to be
0:32:00 > 0:32:04evidence of this from shells having been found in excavations, etc.
0:32:04 > 0:32:07They probably came from Persia, or that direction.
0:32:07 > 0:32:14Then nothing much is known about them until the 16th, 17th century,
0:32:14 > 0:32:16when most farmsteads had walnuts,
0:32:16 > 0:32:19and of course, the big houses had them as well.
0:32:19 > 0:32:24But they were never grown commercially.
0:32:24 > 0:32:29But if you thought the only way to eat a walnut was the dry, husky thing you get in a red mesh bag
0:32:29 > 0:32:32in a supermarket at Christmas, think again.
0:32:32 > 0:32:35Tell me a little bit about the flavour of the walnuts.
0:32:35 > 0:32:38There is basically three stages of picking them,
0:32:38 > 0:32:44you can pick them green, and use them for pickling, and the next stage?
0:32:44 > 0:32:49The next one would be wet walnuts, when they're ripe but not dried.
0:32:49 > 0:32:53- And the wet walnut is sweet and juicy and fruity?- Yes.
0:32:53 > 0:32:57I remember eating those when I was growing up, you pick it off the tree.
0:32:57 > 0:33:00- It's so delicious. - You've got to peel the skin off.
0:33:00 > 0:33:03It's like a party in the mouth, it's wonderful.
0:33:03 > 0:33:07Tell me about the next stage, when they are completely dry?
0:33:07 > 0:33:12Yes, it's difficult to describe, really. It's a nice, nutty flavour!
0:33:12 > 0:33:16And it is quite complex compared to other nuts, I find.
0:33:16 > 0:33:19- There's a lot going on with those nuts.- Yes.
0:33:19 > 0:33:25Now, it seems like most of the nuts that we consume in this country come from abroad.
0:33:25 > 0:33:29Yes. California, mainly.
0:33:29 > 0:33:31So there seems to be a commercial market,
0:33:31 > 0:33:36but is there a future for growing nuts here?
0:33:36 > 0:33:40I think so, now it's warming up a bit here, definitely there will be.
0:33:44 > 0:33:47So there used to be lots of wonderful walnut trees around,
0:33:47 > 0:33:52but they were never commercially grown. But according to Alan, they could be, and guess what?
0:33:52 > 0:33:54There is demand for them,
0:33:54 > 0:33:57especially in the form of a peculiarly British product.
0:33:58 > 0:34:02Pickled walnuts were a totally new British delicacy to me
0:34:02 > 0:34:05when I moved over from Israel. I had never seen them before.
0:34:05 > 0:34:09Created in the 1800s, they were so popular,
0:34:09 > 0:34:13even Victorian domestic goddess Mrs Beeton was telling her readers
0:34:13 > 0:34:15how to preserve their home-grown walnuts.
0:34:15 > 0:34:20I've come to see a family company that has been getting into a real pickle with walnuts.
0:34:20 > 0:34:25Pickled walnuts, that's a real British eccentricity. Where does it start?
0:34:25 > 0:34:28It's mentioned in the Pickwick papers.
0:34:28 > 0:34:32And it was essentially a Victorian product,
0:34:32 > 0:34:35the Victorians used to do home pickling,
0:34:35 > 0:34:40they harvested the walnuts in June and July, they put them in jars,
0:34:40 > 0:34:41and were used at Christmas.
0:34:41 > 0:34:46They're generally used on Boxing Day with the cold turkey
0:34:46 > 0:34:51and other salad products, but we do have a market for the rest of the year,
0:34:51 > 0:34:54and all supermarkets will have them throughout the year.
0:34:54 > 0:34:58I think it's fascinating. I know a lot about pickling cucumbers,
0:34:58 > 0:35:01I know about pickling other vegetables.
0:35:01 > 0:35:04Cauliflower, turnip, beetroot. How do you pickle walnuts?
0:35:04 > 0:35:10We take them and trim them, where we looks shells or any defects.
0:35:10 > 0:35:15We steam them. We put them in tanks, to reduce the salt level.
0:35:15 > 0:35:20We pack them into jars and then vinegar is applied
0:35:20 > 0:35:23and then they're capped and pasteurised and labelled.
0:35:23 > 0:35:28And it's the most wonderful condiment, because they're sharp and nutty.
0:35:28 > 0:35:33So I can see it with something very fatty, like a blue cheese.
0:35:33 > 0:35:38- Stilton.- Stilton.- And pickled walnuts. I can see how the sharpness cuts into that.
0:35:38 > 0:35:42- Would you take one and pop it into your mouth? - You can do, if they're small enough.
0:35:42 > 0:35:45But it's probably best to cut it into four.
0:35:45 > 0:35:46Ooh!
0:35:46 > 0:35:48Where do your walnuts come from?
0:35:48 > 0:35:51Most of them come from France and some from Italy,
0:35:51 > 0:35:56but there is some UK production now.
0:35:56 > 0:36:00Obviously, if we can improve the UK production, that's good.
0:36:00 > 0:36:02This is fascinating.
0:36:02 > 0:36:07I just walked out of a factory that produces a product that is essentially British.
0:36:07 > 0:36:10It's pickled walnuts, it can't get any more British than that.
0:36:10 > 0:36:16But, unfortunately, only a minority of the walnuts used in this factory are locally grown.
0:36:16 > 0:36:18We're in the heart of Kent.
0:36:18 > 0:36:22An ideal climate for nuts in general, and walnuts,
0:36:22 > 0:36:25and most of them actually come from France.
0:36:25 > 0:36:26It's a real shame.
0:36:32 > 0:36:37'One way you can help revive British walnuts is by eating more of them
0:36:37 > 0:36:40'and not just in Waldorf salads, brownies and cakes.
0:36:40 > 0:36:45'So in the Revival kitchen, I'm going to make a dish that makes the most of fresh and pickled walnuts.'
0:36:45 > 0:36:49I love pickled walnuts. I have a little fetish to confess to.
0:36:49 > 0:36:52I always have a little jar in my fridge that I keep for a rainy day.
0:36:52 > 0:36:56And they make a very good salsa.
0:36:56 > 0:37:01They'd showcase fantastically in a dish of roasted aubergines and walnut salsa I'm going to make.
0:37:06 > 0:37:10I'm going to start by peeling the aubergine, but not completely peeling it.
0:37:10 > 0:37:15I'm going to give it a little zebra stripe.
0:37:15 > 0:37:20It looks really good and it means that when you have it, you also have much less of the flesh.
0:37:23 > 0:37:28'Score into the aubergine almost all the way down in a diamond pattern.
0:37:29 > 0:37:33'Brush on lots of olive oil, really let loads soak in.
0:37:33 > 0:37:35'This will help it to cook.
0:37:35 > 0:37:39'Salt and pepper, and then into the oven for 30 to 40 minutes.
0:37:40 > 0:37:43'And now for some walnut salsa.'
0:37:43 > 0:37:46My favourite ingredient, those pickled walnuts,
0:37:46 > 0:37:54and what that does is allow us to enjoy the two states of the walnut.
0:37:54 > 0:37:58One is fresh, sweet, slightly crunchy,
0:37:58 > 0:38:03and the pickled walnut is acidic, very sharp, but it has the sweet aroma of pickling spices,
0:38:03 > 0:38:07and that together creates a perfect balance for the salsa.
0:38:07 > 0:38:13I'm going to throw in garlic. A little bit of chilli.
0:38:14 > 0:38:18And I'm just going to literally break this walnut in.
0:38:20 > 0:38:25And then one of those pickled walnuts.
0:38:25 > 0:38:27The flavour is fantastic.
0:38:27 > 0:38:31It's gorgeous. You don't need a lot of it. It's very strong in flavour.
0:38:31 > 0:38:35'Splash in some of the pickling juices, a little walnut oil,
0:38:35 > 0:38:39'some cider vinegar and stir in chopped coriander and parsley.'
0:38:41 > 0:38:45'Take your aubergine out of the oven and spoon the salsa all over the flesh
0:38:45 > 0:38:49'and leave it a little bit for the juices to soak in.'
0:38:53 > 0:38:56'Then scatter over some gem-like pomegranate seeds
0:38:56 > 0:38:59'and sprinkle over some crumbled mature goat's cheese.'
0:39:02 > 0:39:06You could sprinkle a little bit more herbs on top.
0:39:06 > 0:39:09I think it looks great and I'm going to test it now.
0:39:13 > 0:39:18I think it's fantastic and refreshing to see that I can use two very British ingredients,
0:39:18 > 0:39:22walnut and pickled walnuts, in such a very Mediterranean dish
0:39:22 > 0:39:25and it still jumps and explodes and it's wonderful in the mouth.
0:39:32 > 0:39:36So we've already learned that there is a wonderful tradition
0:39:36 > 0:39:39of walnut trees growing wild all over the British countryside
0:39:39 > 0:39:44but it was never an industry. Conversely, there's now a commercial demand for locally-produced nuts
0:39:44 > 0:39:48but it's not being met, and if eating British walnuts is to be revived
0:39:48 > 0:39:50I think we need an industry.
0:39:50 > 0:39:52So I've come to Somerset to meet Roger Saul,
0:39:52 > 0:39:54who's taking on the challenge.
0:39:54 > 0:39:57He found evidence of walnut orchards by his house
0:39:57 > 0:40:00which was once part of Glastonbury Abbey.
0:40:00 > 0:40:03Roger spotted a real business opportunity.
0:40:03 > 0:40:07If I look at these maps here that I bought out, here's a map
0:40:07 > 0:40:10of the estate going back to about 1500.
0:40:10 > 0:40:14So here's the house, the walnuts and the orchard would have been around here,
0:40:14 > 0:40:18and then you can see on the next map, which is much later,
0:40:18 > 0:40:22round about 1850, here you can see the same house...
0:40:22 > 0:40:25- That would relate to round there, and here's...- All the trees.
0:40:25 > 0:40:28Orchard, yeah. And effectively, the abbots would have had
0:40:28 > 0:40:31everything like this in close-quarters,
0:40:31 > 0:40:33so they'd have had their fish ponds here,
0:40:33 > 0:40:36their mixed orchards, so we don't know how much was nut,
0:40:36 > 0:40:38how much was plum, apple, pear and so on.
0:40:38 > 0:40:44Roger's even pinpointed a tree which he reckons descends from the 16th century orchard.
0:40:44 > 0:40:47All this has inspired his business plan.
0:40:47 > 0:40:52He's trying to resurrect those ancient orchards, with 300 walnut trees.
0:40:52 > 0:40:55So these trees, I planted them more mature, so these were probably
0:40:55 > 0:41:03already sort of, that stem, trunk, so what's called a standard ten,
0:41:03 > 0:41:08this would now be more like a 20, so it's really growing strongly.
0:41:08 > 0:41:11Mind your head because we might get a walnut.
0:41:13 > 0:41:16Yeah, we got two.
0:41:16 > 0:41:19So that's reduced my crop by two walnuts now.
0:41:19 > 0:41:23- What varieties do you grow here? - Well, because we went to France
0:41:23 > 0:41:26and looked at bringing in trees of volume,
0:41:26 > 0:41:28we couldn't find English trees the scale we needed,
0:41:28 > 0:41:31so although we set out to do English walnuts,
0:41:31 > 0:41:34we actually found that the French walnut type is this oval shape -
0:41:34 > 0:41:38once you get this husk off it cracks very easily.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41It's got a thinner skin, it's got a bigger nut
0:41:41 > 0:41:43and it's a much more commercial proposition.
0:41:43 > 0:41:47But the squirrels will regularly take walnuts off our old trees
0:41:47 > 0:41:50and plant them, so we'll find them all over the garden.
0:41:50 > 0:41:54So we dig those up and we've been planting, regularly, English walnuts.
0:41:54 > 0:41:57We'll keep bringing on the English walnut,
0:41:57 > 0:42:00and we may find with time that those trees have a better life here.
0:42:00 > 0:42:04While Roger patiently waits for his orchards to bear enough fruit
0:42:04 > 0:42:07to sell commercially, he's using his walnuts in salads,
0:42:07 > 0:42:11pasta sauces and just as snacks, and they taste good.
0:42:11 > 0:42:12Wow.
0:42:12 > 0:42:16'With his revived British orchard he plans to take on the dominance
0:42:16 > 0:42:19'of the Chinese and Californian imports.'
0:42:19 > 0:42:23What is the difference between your locally-grown walnut and the ones that are imported
0:42:23 > 0:42:27in terms of the flavour or eating quality?
0:42:27 > 0:42:32That taste we got with the Chinese is almost like a certain, almost like a bit of a desiccation to it,
0:42:32 > 0:42:34whereas if you tasted OUR walnuts -
0:42:34 > 0:42:38we've got last year's here, a year old, they were really rich and oily.
0:42:38 > 0:42:41So what we see here, really, is that you actually created something,
0:42:41 > 0:42:46so there is a future for the walnut industry as such here where we are in Somerset.
0:42:46 > 0:42:49I mean, there's a future, I'd say, anywhere in south Britain.
0:42:49 > 0:42:53You want that warmer climate of south Britain rather than the north,
0:42:53 > 0:42:55but if somebody's got enough foresight,
0:42:55 > 0:42:58- and perhaps thinking of their children more than...- Yes.
0:42:58 > 0:43:01..then you could plant hundreds of acres of walnuts
0:43:01 > 0:43:05and you'd have... Why can the Chinese do thousands of tonnes, and the Americans?
0:43:05 > 0:43:07There's no reason why we can't do it.
0:43:11 > 0:43:15We all know now that certain products taste so much better
0:43:15 > 0:43:17when they're fresh and they're local.
0:43:17 > 0:43:21If you think about a strawberry when you go to a supermarket
0:43:21 > 0:43:24and you buy a pack that's just been local and freshly picked,
0:43:24 > 0:43:27you taste them, you smell them and they've got a perfume, an aroma
0:43:27 > 0:43:31and a succulence that strawberries that are imported just don't have.
0:43:31 > 0:43:37Compare that to walnuts that have been grown here that are sweet and succulent and milky,
0:43:37 > 0:43:41they're just not the same as the ones that have been grown in China and brought here.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44Those tend to be a little bit chalky, desiccated,
0:43:44 > 0:43:49and they just don't have the same sort of effect. It's just a completely different story.
0:43:52 > 0:43:56To encourage you to get cooking with walnuts,
0:43:56 > 0:44:00I'm going to make you another delicious dish and if you find local British walnuts
0:44:00 > 0:44:03like Roger's, it will be even better.
0:44:03 > 0:44:05My next dish is going to use his actual walnuts.
0:44:05 > 0:44:08It's a miso chicken with grapes and walnuts.
0:44:12 > 0:44:17These chicken thighs have been marinating with ginger,
0:44:17 > 0:44:21some cider vinegar, miso, which is fermented bean paste,
0:44:21 > 0:44:24and mirin, which is a Japanese sweet wine
0:44:24 > 0:44:26that helps to tenderise the meat.
0:44:26 > 0:44:30You can get a small bottle of mirin in most supermarkets.
0:44:30 > 0:44:34Place them all on a baking tray, pour the gingery marinade over
0:44:34 > 0:44:36and pop under the grill for about 15 minutes.
0:44:36 > 0:44:39Take some shallots, blanch them for five minutes,
0:44:39 > 0:44:43then heat some oil in a pan and colour them for a couple of minutes.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46The miso and the nuts are two very savoury flavours
0:44:46 > 0:44:49and they work together, they almost rhyme.
0:44:49 > 0:44:52It's something that you never quite know,
0:44:52 > 0:44:54but in the end, it works perfectly well.
0:44:54 > 0:44:57Add some cider vinegar to the pan and reduce.
0:44:57 > 0:45:01I want to lose the acidity but keep the sharpness.
0:45:01 > 0:45:05Then white wine and a bit of water, some salt and white pepper
0:45:05 > 0:45:06and bubble away to reduce.
0:45:06 > 0:45:09And now I'm going to lose some of the alcohol
0:45:09 > 0:45:12and let these beautiful flavours soak in to the shallots.
0:45:12 > 0:45:16These shallots in the final dish, they are bursting with flavour because they had vinegar,
0:45:16 > 0:45:18they had wine later, they're well-seasoned,
0:45:18 > 0:45:23they're really, really essential for carrying off all the flavours.
0:45:26 > 0:45:30The chicken just gets a beautiful caramelised colour on top
0:45:30 > 0:45:32from all the sugar in the mirin.
0:45:32 > 0:45:35Add the chicken and juices to the miso and mirin and simmer.
0:45:37 > 0:45:41Last time I actually tasted walnuts off a tree was in Ladakh
0:45:41 > 0:45:45in northern India, where I was travelling about three years ago.
0:45:45 > 0:45:49And I can't forget the sensation of picking a walnut off a tree,
0:45:49 > 0:45:52picking off the green, rotting shell and just cracking it.
0:45:52 > 0:45:55It doesn't take a lot to crack it because the shell is very soft.
0:45:55 > 0:45:59And what you get is something really heavenly.
0:45:59 > 0:46:04It's a fresh walnut - green, almost milky in flavour.
0:46:04 > 0:46:07You put it in and it just melts in the mouth.
0:46:07 > 0:46:09It's so sweet, it's like a candy.
0:46:09 > 0:46:14Nothing compares to this experience of having a walnut off a tree.
0:46:14 > 0:46:18After 15 minutes, the chicken should be cooked,
0:46:18 > 0:46:21so remove them but keep them warm.
0:46:21 > 0:46:26Next add your walnuts, grapes and some mellow maple syrupy sweetness.
0:46:27 > 0:46:31As the grapey, nutty flavour starts mixing with the miso and mirin,
0:46:31 > 0:46:33add some butter to thicken the sauce.
0:46:33 > 0:46:37This is the real beauty of this dish.
0:46:37 > 0:46:39These walnuts are local walnuts.
0:46:39 > 0:46:41They are fresh,
0:46:41 > 0:46:44they've got all this beautiful sweetness that you don't get
0:46:44 > 0:46:47from a walnut that's travelled half the world to get here.
0:46:47 > 0:46:50And the sauce thickens really well.
0:46:50 > 0:46:53What it does is, the grapes are warming up,
0:46:53 > 0:46:57giving a little bit of their sweetness and acidity.
0:46:57 > 0:47:00And the walnuts are softening a little bit.
0:47:00 > 0:47:02They're not going to be completely soft,
0:47:02 > 0:47:06so there's going to be a crunch, but a very mellow one.
0:47:06 > 0:47:11Add in any juices from the chicken to the sauce and then put it all on a plate.
0:47:20 > 0:47:25Then I'm just going to finish this off with a little bit of tarragon
0:47:25 > 0:47:28and some lovely, fresh pea shoots.
0:47:28 > 0:47:31Don't let the tarragon overpower the dish.
0:47:31 > 0:47:35Just a little sprinkling is enough.
0:47:41 > 0:47:44And it works fantastically well.
0:47:44 > 0:47:48You've got the sweet grapes, the earthiness of the walnuts
0:47:48 > 0:47:51and everything with the miso and mirin
0:47:51 > 0:47:55just comes together in an unusual way. When I think about it,
0:47:55 > 0:48:01it's a real fusion dish because the walnuts are local
0:48:01 > 0:48:05and the mirin and miso are from the other side of the Earth
0:48:05 > 0:48:09and they just work lovely together, it's a real revelation to me.
0:48:09 > 0:48:11It's just wonderful.
0:48:17 > 0:48:21My revival campaign is two-pronged.
0:48:21 > 0:48:23As well as walnuts,
0:48:23 > 0:48:26I want you to welcome back the crunchy cob nut,
0:48:26 > 0:48:30which has a completely different story, but what exactly is a cob nut?
0:48:30 > 0:48:35Well, the Kentish cob nut is a British variety of hazelnut.
0:48:35 > 0:48:41It can also refer to any fresh, green, British hazelnut still in its husky coat.
0:48:41 > 0:48:45It's a shame that cob nuts aren't as popular today as they used to be.
0:48:45 > 0:48:49Just before the First World War there were 7,000 acres of cob nuts
0:48:49 > 0:48:53grown in this country, and today we're left with 250.
0:48:53 > 0:48:57My worry is that we could go from 250 acres to zero
0:48:57 > 0:48:59if we don't support these native nuts.
0:48:59 > 0:49:03I'm in Kent to meet one of the biggest cob nut growers
0:49:03 > 0:49:07who supplies some of the UK's largest supermarket chains.
0:49:07 > 0:49:12- I guess they were very popular in Victorian times, right? - That was the heyday.
0:49:12 > 0:49:15Up till then people gathered wild hazelnuts
0:49:15 > 0:49:20and the Victorian gardeners started developing other hazelnuts,
0:49:20 > 0:49:22trying to get them bigger and better,
0:49:22 > 0:49:28- which they managed to do.- Some of them are massive.- That's right.
0:49:28 > 0:49:30- Nothing like those in hedgerows.- No.
0:49:30 > 0:49:35- Traditionally they're eaten green, right?- Yes, partly.
0:49:35 > 0:49:37It's divided into two.
0:49:37 > 0:49:43We pick them early because some people like them when they're soft and milky and white,
0:49:43 > 0:49:46other people like them when they're mature and brown.
0:49:46 > 0:49:49Like the normal hazelnut.
0:49:49 > 0:49:52Like the normal hazelnut you buy in the shops, yes.
0:49:52 > 0:49:56- All these around us are cob nuts? - These are Kent cob nuts.
0:49:56 > 0:50:00- And they're still... - They're still quite green.
0:50:00 > 0:50:05What would happen if we crack one of those now? What do we get?
0:50:05 > 0:50:10You'll get a fairly white kernel because it's not brown yet.
0:50:10 > 0:50:14- They're beautiful looking. - They're very pretty.
0:50:14 > 0:50:18The husk around it's just so pretty.
0:50:18 > 0:50:24There you have the white kernel which is just right. Try that one.
0:50:27 > 0:50:33- Crunchy?- Very crunchy.- Moist? - Moist and fresh and a little sweet.
0:50:33 > 0:50:38You can taste there's a lot of fat in it because it's very rich.
0:50:38 > 0:50:42There's a lot of protein in it as well and vitamins.
0:50:45 > 0:50:50The Victorians started the process of finding the best variety
0:50:50 > 0:50:52for the market, and John is carrying it on.
0:50:52 > 0:50:56He's planted a trial plot with 48 varieties of cob nut
0:50:56 > 0:51:01with older and newer varieties to find the best commercial nut.
0:51:01 > 0:51:06It's so exciting, you've got so many different types of nuts here. You can go crazy.
0:51:06 > 0:51:10- Tell me about this one, John. - This is a Victorian nut.
0:51:10 > 0:51:14Probably bred about 1850, 1860.
0:51:14 > 0:51:18It's named after Sir Humphrey Davy and is called Davinia.
0:51:18 > 0:51:21The growth is quite erect, strong and vigorous,
0:51:21 > 0:51:27so it's one we'd have to look at again to make sure it was worth growing commercially.
0:51:27 > 0:51:29Taste is the most important thing to John,
0:51:29 > 0:51:33but commercially he also has to look at the yield of each variety.
0:51:33 > 0:51:38Here's an exciting variety called prolific closehead.
0:51:38 > 0:51:43The trees they're small, compact and carry a very heavy crop of nuts.
0:51:43 > 0:51:46It's amazing.
0:51:46 > 0:51:50This tree is tiny and it's got hundreds of nuts.
0:51:50 > 0:51:52And a reasonable size as well.
0:51:52 > 0:51:57- It's the first time it's been tasted for a long time. - Really? I'm very fortunate.
0:52:00 > 0:52:04- Gorgeous. It's nuttier. - It's nuttier?- Mmmm.
0:52:04 > 0:52:07It's even sweeter than the other one we had before.
0:52:07 > 0:52:11And it's just so, so lovely. It's a beautiful nut.
0:52:11 > 0:52:14It's such fresh food, isn't it? I really can't put this over enough
0:52:14 > 0:52:16that it's unprocessed, a natural food.
0:52:16 > 0:52:18It's hard to explain,
0:52:18 > 0:52:21you've got this little thing here, it looks very unassuming.
0:52:21 > 0:52:23It's just a tree.
0:52:23 > 0:52:26But the flavour that comes out, it just bursts in the mouth.
0:52:26 > 0:52:28It's just fantastic. It's beautiful.
0:52:31 > 0:52:36It's wonderful to see a grower like John so passionate about his cob nuts.
0:52:36 > 0:52:39He plays with varieties, he grows his trees, pushes it into supermarkets.
0:52:39 > 0:52:43I urge you to try cob nuts. They're really, really fantastic.
0:52:43 > 0:52:45Or even better, grow your own tree.
0:52:49 > 0:52:53And if I still haven't persuaded you to think about trying cob nuts,
0:52:53 > 0:52:58maybe my final delicious recipe in the revival kitchen will.
0:52:58 > 0:53:01Not many people know that you can actually cook with cob nuts
0:53:01 > 0:53:04in their dried state.
0:53:04 > 0:53:06I'm going to show you a wonderful recipe.
0:53:06 > 0:53:08Fruit and cob nut crumble cream.
0:53:14 > 0:53:16Start with a simple crumble.
0:53:16 > 0:53:19I like a combination of plain flour and wholemeal flour,
0:53:19 > 0:53:22sugar and butter, mixed together with your fingertips.
0:53:22 > 0:53:29And this is really a bit fancier than your average crumble because
0:53:29 > 0:53:34it has layers of cream, caramelised nuts, crumble and fresh fruits.
0:53:34 > 0:53:39So, the crumble itself is a little bit like the sponge in a trifle.
0:53:39 > 0:53:42It soaks the flavour and gives it a little bit of texture.
0:53:42 > 0:53:46Really, really beautiful. It's probably one of my favourite desserts.
0:53:46 > 0:53:49Spread the crumble mix evenly over a roasting tray
0:53:49 > 0:53:52and put into the oven at 180 degrees.
0:53:54 > 0:53:58Now for the cob nuts, which I'm going to caramelise.
0:53:58 > 0:54:01Put your shelled nuts in a non-stick pan.
0:54:01 > 0:54:03Add some caster sugar and put over the heat.
0:54:03 > 0:54:07I like to keep stirring to ensure all the nuts are evenly coated.
0:54:07 > 0:54:09It will take about five or six minutes.
0:54:09 > 0:54:13It's very good with this to use a non-stick pan rather than
0:54:13 > 0:54:16anything else, because you're almost guaranteed that you can get
0:54:16 > 0:54:18the sugar out quite easily.
0:54:18 > 0:54:20It's just, at one point, a certain minute
0:54:20 > 0:54:22when you see that your sugar starts to melt,
0:54:22 > 0:54:26then you're sort of reassured that you're on the right track,
0:54:26 > 0:54:28it actually is happening.
0:54:28 > 0:54:32I think I've just sort of reached that point where the sugar starts
0:54:32 > 0:54:35to stick to the bottom and melt.
0:54:35 > 0:54:38Once they're all coated brown and sticky, pour them
0:54:38 > 0:54:41onto a non-stick tray or some grease-proof paper
0:54:41 > 0:54:44and let your little sweet, caramelised cob nuts cool.
0:54:44 > 0:54:47The third element is the fruit element.
0:54:47 > 0:54:50I've got here apples, pears, some lemon juice and some sugar
0:54:50 > 0:54:55and that's been roasted until the fruit has just sort of collapsed and mushed up.
0:54:55 > 0:55:00You could add other fruit. I love blackberries when in season.
0:55:00 > 0:55:02Especially as they add a lovely tint to the pale apples,
0:55:02 > 0:55:05and don't forget to take out the crumble.
0:55:05 > 0:55:08You want it nicely browned.
0:55:08 > 0:55:11Lastly, a fragrant, creamy mix to dollop all over your fruit and nuts.
0:55:11 > 0:55:16Mix together double cream for smoothness, mascarpone for richness,
0:55:16 > 0:55:19then Greek yoghurt for acidity along with a spoonful of sugar.
0:55:23 > 0:55:25Crush some star anise and cardamom
0:55:25 > 0:55:28and splash in some vanilla essence onto your mix.
0:55:28 > 0:55:29And now, whip.
0:55:29 > 0:55:32You're getting a taste of the Orient here.
0:55:32 > 0:55:37The star anise and the cardamom are real sort of significant flavours of the Middle East,
0:55:37 > 0:55:42and what I'm doing here is injecting something which is from a different world
0:55:42 > 0:55:49into this beautiful cob nut and apple dish, which is Britain and the Middle East almost put together.
0:55:49 > 0:55:52Time to assemble. First, your cooled crumble.
0:55:52 > 0:55:55Then crush some caramelised nuts...
0:55:55 > 0:55:59Then layer on some fruit, the juices will soak into the crumble.
0:55:59 > 0:56:03I hope you can see how wonderful this all is.
0:56:03 > 0:56:05Dollop on some spiced cream.
0:56:05 > 0:56:08I can smell the cardamom and I can smell the star anise.
0:56:09 > 0:56:14It's just something that sort of evokes so many emotions,
0:56:14 > 0:56:17it's like being in a souk or in the square in Marrakesh.
0:56:17 > 0:56:19You know, all the cardamom and the star anise,
0:56:19 > 0:56:23all these fantastic flavours, they come out here. Then repeat.
0:56:23 > 0:56:26Remember, this is a high rise dessert, not a bungalow.
0:56:26 > 0:56:29Tower on as much of each indulgent layer as you can manage.
0:56:29 > 0:56:33The icing on the cream is these wonderful cob nuts.
0:56:33 > 0:56:37Once they've cooked and roasted in the pan with all the caramel,
0:56:37 > 0:56:42they're really, really crunchy, and that's what you want from a nut at that stage.
0:56:42 > 0:56:44You can hear it as I cut.
0:56:48 > 0:56:53So, that's a really king-sized dessert and it's suitable for kings.
0:57:01 > 0:57:05This is incredible. This is probably the best thing you can eat.
0:57:05 > 0:57:09I mean, the cob nuts on top with the caramel, the cream, the apples,
0:57:09 > 0:57:12it's just, it's an explosion but it's a bonfire in the mouth.
0:57:12 > 0:57:14It's fantastic.
0:57:22 > 0:57:27If British nuts are to be revived, we all need to play our part.
0:57:27 > 0:57:32Not having a garden is no excuse. Take these residents of Bath.
0:57:32 > 0:57:34They are in a community scheme and have been lent
0:57:34 > 0:57:38a piece of land by the National Trust to grow a nut orchard.
0:57:38 > 0:57:42They've planted lots of trees including walnuts, almonds, chestnuts and cob nuts.
0:57:42 > 0:57:45I just think it's a fantastic community project.
0:57:45 > 0:57:48I mean, I'm very keen on growing vegetables
0:57:48 > 0:57:50but I don't have a particularly big garden.
0:57:50 > 0:57:54And "nuttery" sounds like a fantastically fairytale little land, "nuttery"!
0:57:56 > 0:58:00For this group, it's not just about reviving a tradition.
0:58:00 > 0:58:04Heritage-wise it's just doing something that we've always done.
0:58:04 > 0:58:07It's extremely easy to grow nuts in this country. Anyone can do it.
0:58:07 > 0:58:10You can have one or two hazelnuts in your garden.
0:58:10 > 0:58:14And that'll give you several pounds of nuts. Enough for Christmas celebrations.
0:58:14 > 0:58:19So it's up to us to protect and revive our British nuts.
0:58:19 > 0:58:22You know what, if there is something I learned along my journey
0:58:22 > 0:58:23over the last few days,
0:58:23 > 0:58:27it is how beautiful local British nuts can taste when they're really young,
0:58:27 > 0:58:30when they're still green, succulent and really fresh.
0:58:30 > 0:58:34They don't compare at all to old mature nuts.
0:58:34 > 0:58:37There is something really fruity and creamy about them
0:58:37 > 0:58:42and I really urge you to go out and find them, because they're just like nothing else.
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0:58:55 > 0:58:58E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk