0:00:02 > 0:00:03This is The Great British Food Revival.
0:00:03 > 0:00:05We are flying the flag and campaigning...
0:00:05 > 0:00:07To save some of our truly unique...
0:00:07 > 0:00:08Totally delicious...
0:00:08 > 0:00:09Succulent...
0:00:09 > 0:00:10Formidable...
0:00:10 > 0:00:12Home-grown produce.
0:00:12 > 0:00:15Ooh, it's cold!
0:00:15 > 0:00:17Many are teetering on the brink of survival.
0:00:17 > 0:00:20We need you to help us...
0:00:20 > 0:00:23To resurrect these classic heritage ingredients.
0:00:23 > 0:00:26I'm loving it. I could stay out here all day.
0:00:26 > 0:00:28Join us now before it's too late.
0:00:28 > 0:00:30Can you give us a whoop?
0:00:30 > 0:00:31Whoo!
0:00:31 > 0:00:35Some things are really worth fighting for.
0:00:35 > 0:00:37Ah, delicious.
0:01:15 > 0:01:20To me, there is nothing like to stand at the river fishing.
0:01:20 > 0:01:23I've been catching my fish and of course, cooking it.
0:01:24 > 0:01:28We all know now that we have to preserve our fish
0:01:28 > 0:01:32and of course to cook it and fish it responsibly.
0:01:32 > 0:01:36The most popular five fish in Britain are cod, haddock,
0:01:36 > 0:01:38salmon, tuna and prawns.
0:01:38 > 0:01:40But they are all under pressure
0:01:40 > 0:01:43and to save our seas, we should be eating other fish.
0:01:43 > 0:01:45There's one fish, a beautiful fish...
0:01:45 > 0:01:46And it is off the hook.
0:01:48 > 0:01:51My name is Raymond Blanc and I would like to persuade you to buy
0:01:51 > 0:01:58and cook the delicious, formidable, tasty British trout.
0:01:58 > 0:02:0280% of the fish we buy is under threat from over-fishing.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05But trout's a fantastic, tasty alternative
0:02:05 > 0:02:08and we have a plentiful and sustainable supply.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14On my campaign to revive the British trout I'll be learning
0:02:14 > 0:02:16the ancient art of fishing for sea trout.
0:02:16 > 0:02:18I feel like a big snail.
0:02:18 > 0:02:20I feel like a big fat escargot.
0:02:20 > 0:02:23Reeling in the shoppers to see how much you Brits really
0:02:23 > 0:02:25know about this great British fish.
0:02:25 > 0:02:28Which is the trout? You got it wrong and you're a fisherman.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30Shame on you.
0:02:30 > 0:02:32Ten out of ten, here!
0:02:32 > 0:02:36And it's not just my tasty trout recipes that I will be revealing.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40My first kiss at the age of seven was actually given to a fish.
0:02:50 > 0:02:53I was practically born as a hunter-gatherer.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57I was given my first fishing rod at the age of seven.
0:02:57 > 0:02:59I was not very good. It takes some time to learn.
0:02:59 > 0:03:04I was casting my rod and I caught a lovely beautiful brown trout
0:03:04 > 0:03:06and I've never seen a fish like that.
0:03:06 > 0:03:09Catching the fish. Cooking it. That's what it's all about.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12That is an experience which is special.
0:03:13 > 0:03:18I'm going on a journey to discover the Great British trout
0:03:18 > 0:03:21and of course this journey I hope will inspire you to enjoy that
0:03:21 > 0:03:25wonderful fish with your friends and a delicious meal as well.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28Now, what you all need to know about trout.
0:03:28 > 0:03:32There are three types. Rainbow, brown and sea trout.
0:03:32 > 0:03:35The most popular is rainbow and to kick-start my campaign
0:03:35 > 0:03:39I want to show you a very special rainbow fish that lives
0:03:39 > 0:03:42here at Haddon Hall on the River Wye in Derbyshire.
0:03:43 > 0:03:46Got a lot of fly coming off the river.
0:03:46 > 0:03:47If you use fish...
0:03:47 > 0:03:51This is one of only three places in Britain where you can fish
0:03:51 > 0:03:54for wild rainbow trout, and I've been given special
0:03:54 > 0:03:57dispensation by Lord Manners himself to catch one.
0:03:57 > 0:04:02All these rivers are fed by springs, which is why the water is so clear.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04The rivers are so healthy,
0:04:04 > 0:04:06and full of fly life and also full of trout.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10These rivers you have very rare wild rainbow trout,
0:04:10 > 0:04:13how do you manage the population of fish?
0:04:13 > 0:04:15Wild is exactly the right word.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17We try to keep it as natural as possible.
0:04:17 > 0:04:20We don't stock the rivers at all
0:04:20 > 0:04:23and we don't allow people to kill any fish.
0:04:23 > 0:04:27I'm a Frenchman. If I catch my trout, I want to cook my trout
0:04:27 > 0:04:31and I want to eat my trout with a nice glass of Chablis
0:04:31 > 0:04:35and obviously if the trout is big enough I will share it with you.
0:04:35 > 0:04:39Ah well, maybe Raymond if you can catch a fish today you can eat it.
0:04:39 > 0:04:41- Special dispensation. - Thank you Sir. Shall we go?
0:04:41 > 0:04:43Yah.
0:04:44 > 0:04:47Rainbow trout are normally found in small freshwater enclosures
0:04:47 > 0:04:50before ending up on our supermarket shelves.
0:04:50 > 0:04:54So I'm extremely lucky to have been granted permission
0:04:54 > 0:04:56to fish for this unique wild trout.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02Beautiful little rainbow.
0:05:03 > 0:05:06Amazing. That's a real wild fish.
0:05:06 > 0:05:08Very special.
0:05:08 > 0:05:11Of course what you have here is a good fisherman
0:05:11 > 0:05:13but besides that we've got the most rarest of fish.
0:05:13 > 0:05:18This is a beautiful wild rainbow trout, and perfectly marked.
0:05:18 > 0:05:20That would be perfect for the pot.
0:05:20 > 0:05:22I wish it had been a bit like THAT, but you don't choose.
0:05:24 > 0:05:26Now, wild fish is a rarity
0:05:26 > 0:05:31but you can find farmed rainbow trout almost as tasty.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35Trout farms like this one in the Cotswolds use fresh spring water
0:05:35 > 0:05:39and fish food made from sustainable ingredients.
0:05:39 > 0:05:41This helps to protect the environment.
0:05:43 > 0:05:47These trout are delicious to eat especially if you cook them
0:05:47 > 0:05:49the Raymond Blanc way.
0:05:53 > 0:05:58My first recipe in the revival kitchen is a classic French dish
0:05:58 > 0:06:00that's perfect after a long hard day.
0:06:02 > 0:06:04This dish is truly simple
0:06:04 > 0:06:07and the Rainbow Trout is the champion of this dish.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10It is called the Rainbow Trout Grenobloise.
0:06:12 > 0:06:15The first thing you should be looking for is a fresh fish
0:06:15 > 0:06:18because an older fish will not smell very nice.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20Will not taste very nice.
0:06:20 > 0:06:22So you look for the eyes, you look for the firm body
0:06:22 > 0:06:26and here you can feel it's quite springy, nice fresh fish.
0:06:26 > 0:06:28I grew up eating this dish.
0:06:28 > 0:06:32The beauty of it is its simplicity in both the cooking
0:06:32 > 0:06:34and the flavours.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37To begin with, I trim and lightly season my trout before
0:06:37 > 0:06:40pan-frying it in some foaming butter.
0:06:40 > 0:06:42Voila. About 30 grams of butter.
0:06:42 > 0:06:46OK, what's happening here is a little miracle
0:06:46 > 0:06:47that you need to understand.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50Pan-frying is a fantastic technique
0:06:50 > 0:06:53and when you know how to pan-fry rainbow trout
0:06:53 > 0:06:55you can pan-fry anything.
0:06:55 > 0:06:58The butter is foaming, it's browning.
0:06:58 > 0:07:00That's perfect - that's when it's ready,
0:07:00 > 0:07:03and my trout is ready to be cooked.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05So very, very simple.
0:07:05 > 0:07:07I know I'm using lots of butter
0:07:07 > 0:07:12but don't forget trout is fantastically good for you.
0:07:12 > 0:07:15Here you have a very special nutrient called omega-3.
0:07:15 > 0:07:17That's what we are missing in our diet.
0:07:17 > 0:07:20We have got plenty of omega-6, plenty of omega-9 everywhere
0:07:20 > 0:07:24but omega-3 you can only find it in certain places.
0:07:24 > 0:07:27Nuts and mostly fish. All the fish.
0:07:29 > 0:07:30Beautiful, look at that.
0:07:30 > 0:07:32The flesh is totally gold.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36OK, amazing smells are coming.
0:07:36 > 0:07:40The butter is beautifully hazelnut. You can see it's foaming quietly.
0:07:40 > 0:07:43It's not a violent heat. It's not too much noise.
0:07:43 > 0:07:46You can hear its lovely song. Gentle sizzling. Very, very quiet.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49Not forceful, because that would burn your butter
0:07:49 > 0:07:51and also burn the trout and overcook the trout.
0:07:51 > 0:07:55So, gentle heat so it permeates through. Four minutes on each side.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58Parfait. So, I'm preparing my sauce.
0:07:58 > 0:08:03Sauce Grenobloise originated in the beautiful town of Grenoble.
0:08:03 > 0:08:08Its ingredients are herbs, butter and thinly sliced lemon.
0:08:08 > 0:08:10C'est tout. So the sauce is simple.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14It's very much Maman Blanc food.
0:08:14 > 0:08:16My mum's food. Very, very much so.
0:08:19 > 0:08:24We've got our fish, which smells absolutely heavenly.
0:08:24 > 0:08:25Really heavenly.
0:08:25 > 0:08:28The juices start to run, really, it's absolutely amazing.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34Ha ha! She's playing with me. Typical. Voila.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36I might have a slippery fish
0:08:36 > 0:08:41but I've got a top tip to show you how to remove the bones.
0:08:41 > 0:08:46I know carving is usually the preserve of the man
0:08:46 > 0:08:50but I think ladies are just as crafted in the art.
0:08:50 > 0:08:53Head, so cut it here.
0:08:53 > 0:08:55If you want to cut a little bit here.
0:08:55 > 0:09:02Then for trout following the central bone here and then - voila.
0:09:04 > 0:09:07Then, I'm pushing that flesh here, look. How easy.
0:09:07 > 0:09:10I'm pushing the flesh away from the bone.
0:09:10 > 0:09:13Cut here and lift the central bone.
0:09:13 > 0:09:16If your trout is well-cooked, that's where the real test is
0:09:16 > 0:09:19because if it's undercooked it will stick to the flesh
0:09:19 > 0:09:21and of course if it's over-cooked
0:09:21 > 0:09:23you will know it, because it's all crumbly and horrible.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27Break it here and lift it out.
0:09:27 > 0:09:30Voila. A deboned fish.
0:09:30 > 0:09:32Now, back to my sauce Grenobloise.
0:09:32 > 0:09:35Here is a very simple miracle, water.
0:09:35 > 0:09:39You can do a fantastic jus with just water.
0:09:39 > 0:09:42So you create an emulsion here. See.
0:09:43 > 0:09:47To complete the dish I add lemon, some parsley, capers
0:09:47 > 0:09:48and of course croutons.
0:09:48 > 0:09:53And then you have the most incredible, simple little dish.
0:09:57 > 0:10:02And we've got some lovely emulsion on the top. A delicious jus.
0:10:04 > 0:10:05There you have it.
0:10:05 > 0:10:10My rainbow trout Grenobloise from pan to plate in five minutes.
0:10:10 > 0:10:14A totally delicious and healthy supper. C'est formidable.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18OK, let's taste this trout. OK, let's taste how good it is.
0:10:21 > 0:10:25It is lovely. It's almost - that's why the lemon is here.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28That's why the crouton is here. You can hear them.
0:10:28 > 0:10:30Listen to them.
0:10:31 > 0:10:32You're going to be jealous, I know.
0:10:32 > 0:10:34And so it is a supermarket fish.
0:10:34 > 0:10:37It's a very good fish and it still remind me
0:10:37 > 0:10:40of the flavours of my childhood.
0:10:45 > 0:10:50If I'm going to convince you to swap your salmon for trout
0:10:50 > 0:10:53I need to get you excited about this fish.
0:10:53 > 0:10:56There's another magnificent species of trout
0:10:56 > 0:10:59that you can get in Britain, which I absolutely adore
0:10:59 > 0:11:02but it doesn't seem widely known.
0:11:02 > 0:11:05It's the sea trout, or sewin, as they call it in Wales.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08It is a sustainable fish.
0:11:08 > 0:11:11In Wales it is caught in estuaries and rivers.
0:11:11 > 0:11:15Here on the River Towy, Malcolm Rees has a historic way
0:11:15 > 0:11:17of fishing for them.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19One I've never seen before.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22I heard here that you fish in a very special way.
0:11:22 > 0:11:24We are coracle fisherman.
0:11:24 > 0:11:28And a coracle is basically a keel-less boat.
0:11:28 > 0:11:30- It's not very big is it? - No, it's not. It's about 5.5 foot.
0:11:30 > 0:11:37My family has been fishing using this method for, I think, 250 years.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39- That is experience. - Yeah, it is.
0:11:39 > 0:11:40That is serious experience.
0:11:40 > 0:11:46Malcolm's family began coracle fishing on the River Towy in 1710
0:11:46 > 0:11:49and since then the men of each generation have followed suit.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51What is your passion about it?
0:11:51 > 0:11:55I can't describe how beautiful it is late at night
0:11:55 > 0:11:58when there's no sound and it's just you and the river
0:11:58 > 0:12:01and your partner and a net in between you.
0:12:01 > 0:12:02You feel alive.
0:12:02 > 0:12:05Coracles date back to the Bronze Age.
0:12:05 > 0:12:07Nets are handmade
0:12:07 > 0:12:10and the technique of fishing in pairs is centuries old.
0:12:10 > 0:12:15This is effectively a single-wall trammel net and the idea
0:12:15 > 0:12:19is that the lead line travels along the floor of the river bed.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23The fish hit through the front of the net and get tangled in the back.
0:12:23 > 0:12:25It's quite large. It's good.
0:12:25 > 0:12:29- All the juvenile fish can escape, yeah?- All the juvenile fish can go through.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31It's time for a hunter-gatherer like me
0:12:31 > 0:12:35to experience the old Welsh ways with a practice paddle.
0:12:35 > 0:12:36- OK?- Yeah.
0:12:36 > 0:12:37Onto your shoulder.
0:12:41 > 0:12:42You've got it.
0:12:42 > 0:12:43- OK?- Yeah.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46And then turn to face the camera.
0:12:46 > 0:12:49Oh, ah... I feel like a big snail.
0:12:49 > 0:12:51I feel like a big fat escargot.
0:12:51 > 0:12:54- OK?- Hey, that's heavy eh?
0:12:55 > 0:12:56Just keep it...
0:12:56 > 0:12:58Leave the paddle go, for now.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01Oh! You're going to break my back. Oh, tres bien. Voila.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04- OK?- Oh easy. Ha ha!
0:13:04 > 0:13:05You nearly killed me.
0:13:05 > 0:13:10Coracles were traditionally made from ash, willow and animal skin.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14It takes years of practice to master the skill of handling them,
0:13:14 > 0:13:16so I'm starting in a fibreglass version,
0:13:16 > 0:13:19which is apparently more stable.
0:13:19 > 0:13:23Ooh. Feels a bit dodgy.
0:13:23 > 0:13:26With one hand...a figure of eight.
0:13:27 > 0:13:28That's it, you've got it.
0:13:31 > 0:13:33- Sit forward a bit. - Yeah.
0:13:33 > 0:13:37That's it. You're a natural. Don't go too far!
0:13:38 > 0:13:40I'll have to come and get you.
0:13:41 > 0:13:46I think...you know, that's why it takes centuries of learning, OK,
0:13:46 > 0:13:47and you've got to accept
0:13:47 > 0:13:50that sometimes you cannot learn it in five minutes.
0:13:50 > 0:13:52It's easy, isn't it? It looks very easy.
0:13:53 > 0:13:55But it's hellishly difficult!
0:13:58 > 0:14:01Fortunately, there are some professionals on hand
0:14:01 > 0:14:04to show how it's really done.
0:14:04 > 0:14:06So they're ready to launch now.
0:14:06 > 0:14:10In the past, coraclers fished the River Towy full time
0:14:10 > 0:14:13but it's become much harder to make a living from it.
0:14:13 > 0:14:18So, to keep the heritage alive they now only fish from March
0:14:18 > 0:14:21until July when the sewin return to spawn.
0:14:23 > 0:14:25How likely are we going to get a fish?
0:14:25 > 0:14:27- Um...- What's the chances?
0:14:27 > 0:14:29It's 50/50 really.
0:14:29 > 0:14:31This is the place that they're more likely to catch anything
0:14:31 > 0:14:33if there's a fish about.
0:14:33 > 0:14:36Andrew, as you can look at now, is actually pulling the net in.
0:14:36 > 0:14:39It doesn't look as if he's caught anything
0:14:39 > 0:14:41because he's not getting excited.
0:14:41 > 0:14:43That's the tale of a fisherman. You know.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45- It's the one that got away. - It's the one that got away.
0:14:45 > 0:14:48- The boys are coming back to their start-point again.- Yeah.
0:14:48 > 0:14:54And they will continue several times until they catch a fish.
0:14:54 > 0:14:5820 years ago, the coraclers caught a significantly higher number
0:14:58 > 0:15:00of fish than they do today
0:15:00 > 0:15:03but no-one can pinpoint exactly why numbers have reduced.
0:15:05 > 0:15:11The numbers have definitely dwindled and it's not down to us.
0:15:11 > 0:15:13There's lots of factors.
0:15:13 > 0:15:15It's farming, then, intensive farming?
0:15:15 > 0:15:18The nitrates coming in and the pesticides,
0:15:18 > 0:15:22the fertilisers - or is it factories polluting?
0:15:22 > 0:15:24Is it toxic waste?
0:15:24 > 0:15:27I think it's a little bit of that.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30I think what these guys are doing is simply marvellous
0:15:30 > 0:15:32because they keep a tradition alive.
0:15:32 > 0:15:34But there's a big problem here
0:15:34 > 0:15:36because fish stocks are very, very low
0:15:36 > 0:15:39and I want to find out why they're so low.
0:15:39 > 0:15:44The sewin, or sea trout, begin life in our rivers as brown trout,
0:15:44 > 0:15:48but very little is known about this fish after it leaves the river.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52Dr Carys Davies is from the Celtic Sea Trout Project
0:15:52 > 0:15:55which is carrying out a multi-million pound study
0:15:55 > 0:15:58and is hoping to find some answers.
0:15:58 > 0:16:02We know so little about the lifestyle of the trout.
0:16:02 > 0:16:04In order to manage them effectively,
0:16:04 > 0:16:08we have to build upon what little knowledge we have
0:16:08 > 0:16:12and get as much information, so it all can be fed back into
0:16:12 > 0:16:15the conservation and the management of this beautiful species.
0:16:15 > 0:16:18So, we're asking anglers and commercial fisherman to send us
0:16:18 > 0:16:24the lengths, the weights and a scale sample of the fish
0:16:24 > 0:16:27so we can ascertain what their life history is.
0:16:27 > 0:16:30A fisherman delivers some of his catch, so Dr Davies can show me
0:16:30 > 0:16:34exactly what the fishermen are being asked to do.
0:16:34 > 0:16:39Oh, la la. For a chef, that is rather beautiful. My God.
0:16:40 > 0:16:45Beautiful. Oh, beautiful fish. Sea trout.
0:16:45 > 0:16:47Where's it been caught? Where?
0:16:47 > 0:16:49This was caught in the River Towy here this morning.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51We need to take a length of the fish.
0:16:51 > 0:16:57Lift the fish up...and then we need to put the fish down on the board
0:16:57 > 0:16:59with its snout right up against there
0:16:59 > 0:17:03and then we measure it to the fork here.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06So this is a 72cm fish.
0:17:06 > 0:17:09I shall let you take some scales from our fish.
0:17:11 > 0:17:13Then - as many as possible.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18Voila.
0:17:18 > 0:17:21Understanding sea trout is critical
0:17:21 > 0:17:23if we're not going to over-fish a species.
0:17:23 > 0:17:26So in addition to collecting data, in England and Wales
0:17:26 > 0:17:29the fishermen tag every fish they catch.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32This tag shows us that it's a wild-caught sea trout.
0:17:32 > 0:17:34Caught in 2012.
0:17:34 > 0:17:37The fisherman who caught it is licensed by the environment agency
0:17:37 > 0:17:39to catch salmon and sea trout,
0:17:39 > 0:17:41and each fish has an individual tag,
0:17:41 > 0:17:44so each fish has a number associated with it.
0:17:44 > 0:17:46What does that mean to the consumer?
0:17:46 > 0:17:50They're safe in the knowledge that we know where they've been caught,
0:17:50 > 0:17:52that they're coming from a sustainable source.
0:17:52 > 0:17:56So, I believe that the consumer should be eating this fish.
0:17:56 > 0:17:59And that's it, so now that we're building a management plan
0:17:59 > 0:18:02that's another reason for the consumer to enjoy that fish
0:18:02 > 0:18:04and of course it is so delicious.
0:18:04 > 0:18:07It is one of my favourite fish as well.
0:18:07 > 0:18:09This Celtic Sea Trout Project is marvellous
0:18:09 > 0:18:12because it teaches a lot about sustainability.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14If we keep this trout in the sea,
0:18:14 > 0:18:18that means those fisherman will go on to fish them.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21That means people like me and all the consumers in Britain
0:18:21 > 0:18:25will be able to go on to enjoy it as well, and that is marvellous.
0:18:25 > 0:18:30Tagging and responsible fishing means we can buy sea trout with confidence,
0:18:30 > 0:18:34and my next delicious dish proves exactly why we should be eating it.
0:18:35 > 0:18:37And now I'm going to show you a classic technique
0:18:37 > 0:18:40on how to cook this fantastic sea trout.
0:18:40 > 0:18:42Poached Sea Trout Steak.
0:18:45 > 0:18:49Sea trout is from the same family as salmon
0:18:49 > 0:18:51making it a great alternative fish.
0:18:51 > 0:18:54It's much larger than rainbow trout with a denser flesh
0:18:54 > 0:18:57but also very easy to cook.
0:18:57 > 0:19:01The difference between a salmon and a sea trout is easy.
0:19:01 > 0:19:04It's in here. That is a flat fin.
0:19:04 > 0:19:08A salmon will have a fin, which is much more elegant,
0:19:08 > 0:19:12OK, and concave. Whereas here it is completely flat.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15So, going to cut the tag.
0:19:16 > 0:19:20You'll find sea trout in your local fishmonger, which is perfect
0:19:20 > 0:19:23as they'll prepare the fish and cut it into steaks
0:19:23 > 0:19:25if you're worried about doing it yourself.
0:19:25 > 0:19:26But look how easy it is.
0:19:28 > 0:19:29Look at the colour.
0:19:29 > 0:19:32That's through the fillet, OK, of the sea trout.
0:19:32 > 0:19:35A beautiful shape here, a beautiful flesh.
0:19:35 > 0:19:38Very firm, and a lovely wonderful colour of the sea trout.
0:19:38 > 0:19:42That is ready to be cooked into a court bouillon.
0:19:42 > 0:19:46I'm poaching my sea trout steaks in a court bouillon,
0:19:46 > 0:19:48which sounds very fancy - but I'll let you into a secret.
0:19:48 > 0:19:51It's just a simple vegetable stock.
0:19:51 > 0:19:56And in it I'm going to put in leek, some onion,
0:19:56 > 0:19:59zest of lemon, or a whole slice of lemon.
0:19:59 > 0:20:01Cut very, very thinly.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05OK, black pepper so they can defuse that spice during the cooking.
0:20:05 > 0:20:08Carrots that we have here and celery.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11Be careful the celery is quite strong so that's plenty.
0:20:13 > 0:20:15Tres bien. And here we've got the bouquet garni.
0:20:15 > 0:20:20Bouquet garni is again herbs, OK, which are a bay leaf, thyme
0:20:20 > 0:20:22and parsley just tie them together.
0:20:22 > 0:20:24Or you can just throw them in here
0:20:24 > 0:20:27and the object of these vegetables within the water...
0:20:27 > 0:20:30You start cold. Very important, cold.
0:20:30 > 0:20:34Is to create a wonderful fusion of flavours between the water,
0:20:34 > 0:20:36the vegetables and the bouquet garni.
0:20:36 > 0:20:40Which will create the fantastic delicate...liquor, OK,
0:20:40 > 0:20:42which is going to perfume the fish.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46Not forgetting one final magical ingredient.
0:20:46 > 0:20:47As a Frenchman I should know better
0:20:47 > 0:20:49because I've forgotten the white wine.
0:20:49 > 0:20:53OK, to go into it. And the white wine will provide the acidity.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56Never buy an expensive wine, OK, to cook.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59You want a nice dry, bone dry white wine.
0:20:59 > 0:21:02No more than four quid a bottle, that's plenty.
0:21:02 > 0:21:07And believe me, you can always trust a Frenchman when it comes to wine.
0:21:07 > 0:21:10I simmer the stock for 20 minutes, to allow the flavours to infuse.
0:21:10 > 0:21:13And, voila! It's ready for my two sea trout stakes.
0:21:13 > 0:21:16So, I'm going to hold them here with the skewer.
0:21:16 > 0:21:18Through the flesh, here...
0:21:20 > 0:21:22So, to hold them nicely together,
0:21:22 > 0:21:26so it doesn't open up during the cooking.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28There you go! How simple is that?
0:21:28 > 0:21:31It only takes five minute to poach the steaks, and produce
0:21:31 > 0:21:35a delicious, healthy meal bursting with natural flavours.
0:21:35 > 0:21:37OK, my plate is warming here.
0:21:43 > 0:21:45Voila.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49And, very carefully, I slide my dish here...
0:21:50 > 0:21:54Ah, ha ha! Don't forget to remove the cocktail stick.
0:21:54 > 0:21:55That's a classic.
0:21:55 > 0:21:57Bof! C'est la vie.
0:21:57 > 0:22:00Even an experienced chef like myself can get carried away.
0:22:03 > 0:22:06Cocktail stick removed, what does it taste like?
0:22:09 > 0:22:11That looks very appetising.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17Very herby, very fresh, very clean flavours.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19I think you'll enjoy it very much.
0:22:22 > 0:22:24It's really stunning. Trout.
0:22:30 > 0:22:35So, by now you should know how delicious and sustainable trout is,
0:22:35 > 0:22:38but I think I still have one major hurdle to overcome.
0:22:38 > 0:22:43It's still bothering me as why British people are not cooking
0:22:43 > 0:22:44and eating trout.
0:22:44 > 0:22:46I even wonder if they know what a trout looks like.
0:22:46 > 0:22:49Salmon is the top-selling fish in the UK,
0:22:49 > 0:22:53but when it comes to buying fish that aren't one of the big five,
0:22:53 > 0:22:56you Brits are being a damp squid.
0:22:56 > 0:22:59So I'm taking direct action to champion trout
0:22:59 > 0:23:02and I've come to Carmarthen to set the shoppers a little test.
0:23:04 > 0:23:07Well, first, thank you very much to welcome this little Frenchman
0:23:07 > 0:23:09in your beautiful town.
0:23:09 > 0:23:12I'm here to test if you know your fish.
0:23:12 > 0:23:15I've got five fish. A local sea trout...
0:23:15 > 0:23:16Farm rainbow trout...
0:23:16 > 0:23:18Farm salmon...
0:23:18 > 0:23:19And a sea bass,
0:23:19 > 0:23:20and actually a lemon sole.
0:23:20 > 0:23:24If they can spot the trout, they'll get one to take home.
0:23:24 > 0:23:25Easy, n'est pas?
0:23:27 > 0:23:29Which is the trout?
0:23:29 > 0:23:33So, you come with me, and if you win you'll have a beautiful trout.
0:23:34 > 0:23:36What a prize! Or maybe a bit of chocolat.
0:23:36 > 0:23:38OK. So which one is the trout?
0:23:38 > 0:23:41A tough test for one so young.
0:23:41 > 0:23:45Ah...no.
0:23:45 > 0:23:47It looks like it. Have another try.
0:23:47 > 0:23:50Ta ta ta ta, look at them.
0:23:50 > 0:23:51How do you know?
0:23:51 > 0:23:54She has won! She has won!
0:23:54 > 0:23:58Tres bien. So, now, can an adult do as well as a child? Let's see.
0:23:58 > 0:24:01Monsieur. S'il vous plait.
0:24:01 > 0:24:04I'm going to show you now two trouts.
0:24:07 > 0:24:09- Two trout...- Are you sure?
0:24:09 > 0:24:11You have to decide, OK?
0:24:11 > 0:24:14It's this one, it's that one.
0:24:14 > 0:24:16Yeah I'll go with them two.
0:24:16 > 0:24:18You got it wrong! Ha ha ha.
0:24:18 > 0:24:20And he's a fisherman.
0:24:20 > 0:24:22And you're a fisherman! Shame on you.
0:24:22 > 0:24:25Terrible. Call yourself a fisherman?!
0:24:25 > 0:24:27Next up.
0:24:27 > 0:24:30That one. And this one.
0:24:32 > 0:24:35- Twice wrong. But it's OK, you don't cook.- Oh!
0:24:35 > 0:24:38Can no-one here spot my two trouts?
0:24:38 > 0:24:41I would say that's a trout and I would say that one's a trout.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43- Wrong.- Wrong again.
0:24:43 > 0:24:47My God, three. Only that gorgeous little girl has got it right.
0:24:47 > 0:24:50Look at that. These big adults they got it all wrong.
0:24:50 > 0:24:52She knows her fish and you don't.
0:24:52 > 0:24:54Zut alors. Surely someone must know their fish.
0:24:54 > 0:24:58- OK, show me two trouts. - Er, these two.
0:24:58 > 0:24:59Bravo, we have a winner!
0:25:00 > 0:25:05It seems the children know their fish better than the adults.
0:25:05 > 0:25:07My test has netted quite a crowd,
0:25:07 > 0:25:11so I have a final trout trick to reel everyone in.
0:25:11 > 0:25:13OK, let's cook.
0:25:13 > 0:25:17And now the final stage of my campaign.
0:25:17 > 0:25:22If they can't spot the trout, I can at least show them how to cook it.
0:25:22 > 0:25:28Look. Smell that. Oh, smell that. Oh, la la.
0:25:28 > 0:25:30You can hear that lovely noise.
0:25:30 > 0:25:31Beautiful.
0:25:31 > 0:25:34Great you hardly - you hardly need anything at all.
0:25:34 > 0:25:35Ooh yes.
0:25:35 > 0:25:37That's perfect. Let's have a look.
0:25:37 > 0:25:41Voila. Look, the lovely caramelisation here. Look at that.
0:25:41 > 0:25:44But is my fish delicious enough for these young
0:25:44 > 0:25:46and discerning taste buds?
0:25:46 > 0:25:50Don't you feel your tummy going, "Oh my god, I want that trout"?
0:25:50 > 0:25:54OK that's ready. You're the first, huh. Tell me.
0:25:55 > 0:25:56Oh, look at that. She's so brave.
0:25:56 > 0:25:59Wonderful. A big round of applause.
0:25:59 > 0:26:01Oh! Ha ha! I got it.
0:26:01 > 0:26:06Let's be very honest OK. Children always speak the truth.
0:26:06 > 0:26:07Do you like?
0:26:07 > 0:26:09- Mademoiselle, do you like it? - Yeah.
0:26:09 > 0:26:12Have you eaten trout before? You see, never.
0:26:12 > 0:26:15You see we have two little kids here who have never eaten trout
0:26:15 > 0:26:16and they love it.
0:26:16 > 0:26:20Voila. Oh! Ha ha ha.
0:26:20 > 0:26:23- Ten out of ten. - Ten out of ten, here! Whoa.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28If I can convince the next generation,
0:26:28 > 0:26:31then surely I've inspired you at home.
0:26:31 > 0:26:34I've got one final recipe to show you in the revival kitchen
0:26:34 > 0:26:37and even though I say it myself, c'est formidable.
0:26:37 > 0:26:42This recipe is so delicious and so simple that soon you will be
0:26:42 > 0:26:45all joining my trout revival campaign.
0:26:45 > 0:26:50OK, the dish I'm about to do is a smoked trout
0:26:50 > 0:26:53with a beautiful beetroot salad and horseradish gravy.
0:26:53 > 0:26:54Simple, delicious.
0:26:56 > 0:27:00So, of course the main component of the dish is smoked trout.
0:27:00 > 0:27:03And I must tell you it's as tasty as salmon
0:27:03 > 0:27:06and it's slightly cheaper as well.
0:27:06 > 0:27:09You will find smoked trout readily available in supermarkets
0:27:09 > 0:27:11and delicatessens.
0:27:11 > 0:27:15But I begin my dish with a bowl of chopped up beetroot
0:27:15 > 0:27:17which I've cooked from fresh.
0:27:17 > 0:27:22So the beetroot salad, make sure they're slightly warm here
0:27:22 > 0:27:26so the dressing can permeate the beetroots better.
0:27:27 > 0:27:31Beetroot is packed with natural vitamins and antioxidants.
0:27:31 > 0:27:33It's a perfect healthy companion for my smoked trout
0:27:33 > 0:27:36which is rich in omega-3.
0:27:36 > 0:27:40I add diced shallots, balsamic vinegar and olive oil to my beets.
0:27:40 > 0:27:44So there is a range of sweet and sour flavours.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47It's always contrast which creates flavours together.
0:27:47 > 0:27:50If you put sweet with sweet it doesn't work.
0:27:50 > 0:27:52If you put sweet and sour it does work.
0:27:52 > 0:27:56Sweet and acid, it works. Sweet and herb, it works.
0:27:56 > 0:27:57OK, that's what I'm doing here.
0:27:57 > 0:28:01I'm building up all those flavours for that simple beetroot salad
0:28:01 > 0:28:05to be remembered for a lifetime - at least.
0:28:07 > 0:28:11To really bring this dish alive, I have the ultimate salad dressing.
0:28:11 > 0:28:14Just take some sour cream, mix with grated horse radish,
0:28:14 > 0:28:18lemon juice and finally something to give it a little joi de vivre.
0:28:18 > 0:28:20Now to make it last a little bit longer.
0:28:22 > 0:28:24A tiny little bit of cayenne pepper
0:28:24 > 0:28:27which will carry that gorgeousness of flavours.
0:28:30 > 0:28:32And taste, taste, taste all the time.
0:28:35 > 0:28:39Voila. And now what you have is these wonderful waves.
0:28:39 > 0:28:40You have the horseradish,
0:28:40 > 0:28:43you've got the lemon with the cayenne pepper,
0:28:43 > 0:28:47the sour cream and just...are merging into something rather nice.
0:28:47 > 0:28:49Very special.
0:28:50 > 0:28:54Almost as special as the time I cooked my first fish.
0:28:54 > 0:28:58Remember, I'm a fisherman - and every fisherman has got a tale.
0:28:58 > 0:29:00The biggest fish I have ever caught, I was seven years of age.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03It was my birthday and I received my beautiful canne a peche,
0:29:03 > 0:29:06and I was the happiest young man on earth.
0:29:06 > 0:29:08I was so happy. When I saw that fish.
0:29:08 > 0:29:10It was looking at me. It was going....
0:29:10 > 0:29:12So I gave it a great big kiss
0:29:12 > 0:29:15and that's where my romance with fishing started, really.
0:29:15 > 0:29:17A long, long time ago.
0:29:17 > 0:29:20I think what is really quite extraordinary in many ways
0:29:20 > 0:29:24is that my first kiss at the age of seven was actually given to a fish,
0:29:24 > 0:29:26not to a lovely girlfriend.
0:29:26 > 0:29:28Well, here it is. It came later.
0:29:28 > 0:29:31You can never say we French aren't creatures of passion.
0:29:31 > 0:29:36Anyway back to my dish, which will have you kissing me, it's so tasty.
0:29:38 > 0:29:41I'm putting the base onto my plate which is the fire, OK, here,
0:29:41 > 0:29:44and the beautiful sour cream.
0:29:44 > 0:29:47And now I'm going to...
0:29:49 > 0:29:50Oh they're so gorgeous.
0:29:50 > 0:29:52What beautiful colours. Oh.
0:29:56 > 0:30:00And then...just a little slice.
0:30:00 > 0:30:03Look at that, you can see through them. Beautifully cut. Perfect.
0:30:03 > 0:30:05Very important the cut
0:30:05 > 0:30:08because the texture also represent the flavour so if you have a
0:30:08 > 0:30:11too thick slice, it'll be too salty, too smoky in your mouth.
0:30:11 > 0:30:15The thickness of the slice is so important.
0:30:17 > 0:30:18And how good does it taste?
0:30:24 > 0:30:28I'm not saying I'm a genius but it's very good.
0:30:28 > 0:30:29I assure you, it is so delicious.
0:30:32 > 0:30:36There you have a super healthy meal, perfect for lunch or a quick supper.
0:30:36 > 0:30:38My smoked trout with beetroot salad.
0:30:41 > 0:30:46So, I'm at the end of my trawl celebrating this fantastically
0:30:46 > 0:30:48tasty and versatile little fish.
0:30:50 > 0:30:54I hope my scrumptious recipes have convinced you to enjoy your trout.
0:30:57 > 0:30:59So next time you go to supermarket,
0:30:59 > 0:31:03fill up your baskets with trouts and cook them for your family.
0:31:03 > 0:31:05They're absolutely delicious.
0:31:05 > 0:31:08They're simple to cook and they are fantastically nutritious.
0:31:08 > 0:31:10So long live the British trout.
0:31:13 > 0:31:16Now, a good friend who is passionate about reviving
0:31:16 > 0:31:18a classic British home-made product.
0:31:28 > 0:31:30For me this is one of the most evocative foods.
0:31:30 > 0:31:34It brings back childhood memories of long, hot summers.
0:31:34 > 0:31:39But this stuff of childhood bliss has changed completely in my lifetime.
0:31:39 > 0:31:43It's gone from very simple, natural ingredients to the bulk of it
0:31:43 > 0:31:45being over processed and synthetic.
0:31:45 > 0:31:49And now I think it's time we got back to basics
0:31:49 > 0:31:51and chucked out the junk.
0:31:51 > 0:31:55Ladies and gentleman, I give you real, dairy ice cream.
0:31:55 > 0:31:59In search of the secrets of perfect dairy ice cream
0:31:59 > 0:32:01I get blinded by the science.
0:32:01 > 0:32:03Oh, it's cold. Take a step back in time.
0:32:03 > 0:32:06Just walking in here on a hot summer's day,
0:32:06 > 0:32:08it suddenly becomes much cooler.
0:32:08 > 0:32:11Instigate a dairy revolution.
0:32:11 > 0:32:12Now I know the ingredients,
0:32:12 > 0:32:14I think I'd probably go for the more natural one.
0:32:14 > 0:32:19And in the revival kitchen I celebrate real, dairy ice cream,
0:32:19 > 0:32:21proving there's life beyond the wafer cone.
0:32:21 > 0:32:23That reminds me of my childhood.
0:32:23 > 0:32:27Real, proper, dairy ice cream.
0:32:35 > 0:32:38On a glorious day like today you should only be eating
0:32:38 > 0:32:40the very best dairy ice cream.
0:32:40 > 0:32:42But what makes a good ice cream?
0:32:42 > 0:32:46Well, for me, the basic ingredients couldn't be simpler.
0:32:46 > 0:32:49Egg yolks, sugar, milk and cream - that's it.
0:32:49 > 0:32:51It's certainly a different kettle of fish
0:32:51 > 0:32:53when it comes to bought ice creams.
0:32:55 > 0:32:57Skimmed milk concentrate.
0:32:57 > 0:33:00Glucose syrup, emulsifiers.
0:33:00 > 0:33:04The list of ingredients seems endless.
0:33:04 > 0:33:08Palm oil, whey powder, dextrose, emulsifier, fatty acids.
0:33:08 > 0:33:10But surely all ice cream is a dairy product?
0:33:10 > 0:33:12Well, you might be surprised.
0:33:12 > 0:33:18By law, it only has to contain 2.5% milk protein to be called ice cream.
0:33:18 > 0:33:21Reconstituted skimmed milk, vegetable fat.
0:33:21 > 0:33:24I'd rather not have vegetable fat in my ice cream.
0:33:24 > 0:33:27Only if your ice cream is labelled dairy,
0:33:27 > 0:33:31can you guarantee that you're eating a true dairy product.
0:33:31 > 0:33:34If it's just ice cream, then your family may well
0:33:34 > 0:33:38be tucking into a cornet filled with a cheaper vegetable fat or palm oil.
0:33:41 > 0:33:44But you don't have to settle for second best.
0:33:44 > 0:33:47I'm going into the revival kitchen to show how easy it is
0:33:47 > 0:33:50to make delicious, home-made, dairy ice cream.
0:33:52 > 0:33:54I use this ice cream for knickerbocker glory,
0:33:54 > 0:33:58which is a wonderful fusion of ice cream and fresh fruit
0:33:58 > 0:34:02and a nice bit of mint on the top. Truly delicious.
0:34:07 > 0:34:11This is my basic ice cream that I make time and time again.
0:34:11 > 0:34:14Very, very simple and you don't need an ice cream machine.
0:34:14 > 0:34:16It's just those magic ingredients -
0:34:16 > 0:34:20eggs, cream, sugar plus vanilla.
0:34:20 > 0:34:23Meringue is the base of this ice cream.
0:34:24 > 0:34:27To begin the meringue, start whisking the egg whites.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29Add the sugar gradually.
0:34:29 > 0:34:33By using meringue as a base, we're adding the air at the beginning
0:34:33 > 0:34:36and then there's no more need for whisking.
0:34:36 > 0:34:39There we are. Not coming out.
0:34:39 > 0:34:42Very, proper, meringue.
0:34:42 > 0:34:44The next move is to whip the cream.
0:34:46 > 0:34:48Real cream.
0:34:48 > 0:34:49Never use substitute.
0:34:52 > 0:34:54This looks just about right.
0:34:55 > 0:34:59Take ALL the cream and put it on top of the meringue like that.
0:34:59 > 0:35:04Fold it in, keeping as much air in as possible.
0:35:04 > 0:35:07So that is beautifully smooth now.
0:35:07 > 0:35:11In goes the egg yolks and at the same time vanilla extract.
0:35:11 > 0:35:14About a teaspoon full.
0:35:14 > 0:35:17I know that this is going to be simply delicious.
0:35:17 > 0:35:20And when it freezes, because it's all so frothy,
0:35:20 > 0:35:23you don't get any of those ice crystals.
0:35:23 > 0:35:26This is ready for freezing.
0:35:26 > 0:35:29This is now the base for any ice cream flavour.
0:35:29 > 0:35:33Why not try stemmed ginger, fruit, raisons or even a drop of brandy
0:35:33 > 0:35:38and it's that easy to make your own ice cream.
0:35:38 > 0:35:39I've got one in there all ready.
0:35:43 > 0:35:47A good tip is to actually chill the glasses in the fridge first
0:35:47 > 0:35:52and I'm going to start off by putting some pineapple in the bottom.
0:35:52 > 0:35:54Then a little raspberry puree.
0:35:56 > 0:36:01Then I'm going to put a scoop of ice cream right in the middle like that.
0:36:01 > 0:36:05This really is a very simple, back-to-basics ice cream.
0:36:06 > 0:36:08And I think that...
0:36:08 > 0:36:10is good enough to eat right now.
0:36:21 > 0:36:22Mmm.
0:36:22 > 0:36:24So how do you think I'm doing
0:36:24 > 0:36:28with my great revival of real, dairy ice cream?
0:36:28 > 0:36:30I bet you can't wait to have a go at home.
0:36:38 > 0:36:43But what did people do before every home had their own fridge freezers?
0:36:43 > 0:36:46After all, British ice cream recipes go back to the 1680's.
0:36:46 > 0:36:50Well, the rich and grand built themselves ice houses
0:36:50 > 0:36:54and here at Syon House in west London is one of the grandest.
0:36:55 > 0:36:56A good friend, Robin Wear,
0:36:56 > 0:37:01whose passion for ice cream has made him one of its leading historians,
0:37:01 > 0:37:04has agreed to meet me and act as my guide.
0:37:04 > 0:37:07Well, the house is about 100 yards over there and behind us
0:37:07 > 0:37:11is a conservatory and this was a nice, shady place
0:37:11 > 0:37:16to build the ice house and this one was built about 1820.
0:37:16 > 0:37:19The ice stored here was used to cool wines and champagnes
0:37:19 > 0:37:24but its most important use was for making ice cream.
0:37:24 > 0:37:26Then we'd get the ice from the lake at the back of the house
0:37:26 > 0:37:30and they would also get it out of the Thames because in those days
0:37:30 > 0:37:35the Thames used to freeze and they were very efficient at keeping ice.
0:37:35 > 0:37:38And they would pack between the doors with straw
0:37:38 > 0:37:39to act as extra insulation.
0:37:39 > 0:37:42Because the walls and the roof, the insulation was unbelievable.
0:37:42 > 0:37:45And would that ice last the whole year?
0:37:45 > 0:37:48- Probably until about August. - Let's get off then.
0:37:48 > 0:37:51Then Robin takes me into the bowels of the main building to one
0:37:51 > 0:37:55of the most secretive rooms in Syon House - the confectioner's kitchen.
0:37:55 > 0:37:59It was only in the grand houses that you had ice cream?
0:37:59 > 0:38:03Oh, yes. Initially it was only monarchs who had it
0:38:03 > 0:38:04and then the very wealthy had it.
0:38:04 > 0:38:08Because you had to, first of all, have an ice house
0:38:08 > 0:38:11and ability to get ice and secondly, you had to be able to afford a
0:38:11 > 0:38:15confectioner and they were expensive people and there were few of them.
0:38:15 > 0:38:17Unlike the main kitchen,
0:38:17 > 0:38:20it was situated beneath the grand dining room.
0:38:20 > 0:38:25This allowed speedy service for their show-stopping ice cream creations.
0:38:25 > 0:38:28Ice cream moulds, you can always tell from chocolate moulds,
0:38:28 > 0:38:30because they close completely.
0:38:30 > 0:38:32I mean, that's a very nice orange mould.
0:38:32 > 0:38:34Most of them are related to fruit.
0:38:36 > 0:38:40There's one here that is a fig and there are apples and oranges.
0:38:40 > 0:38:43Yes. The easiest one here to open up is this pineapple one.
0:38:43 > 0:38:46It's in three pieces - that's a very rare mould.
0:38:46 > 0:38:49The confectionist concocted elaborate designs but
0:38:49 > 0:38:54one of their secrets was how easy it was to actually make the ice cream.
0:38:55 > 0:38:59The principle of this is very simple.
0:38:59 > 0:39:02Explaining it scientifically is very difficult
0:39:02 > 0:39:06but if you put salt on ice it reduces the freezing point.
0:39:06 > 0:39:10This is probably now about minus 15 degrees centigrade.
0:39:12 > 0:39:15Now we pour the mixture....
0:39:15 > 0:39:17The method Robin's showing me
0:39:17 > 0:39:21was used in some of the earliest British recipes.
0:39:23 > 0:39:26And then you keep on moving it around and revolving it
0:39:26 > 0:39:28and then...
0:39:28 > 0:39:31it will start solidifying inside.
0:39:31 > 0:39:35This takes me right back to my childhood
0:39:35 > 0:39:37when dad bought an old ice cream maker at an auction
0:39:37 > 0:39:40and mum made ice cream in the exact same way.
0:39:40 > 0:39:43It was just after the war and we had goats and we used
0:39:43 > 0:39:45to do it from goat's milk and goats cream
0:39:45 > 0:39:48and it was a huge treat.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52The very first ice creams were just frozen cream and sugar.
0:39:52 > 0:39:54Hardly a complicated recipe
0:39:54 > 0:39:57but the confectioners didn't want this secret getting out either.
0:39:58 > 0:40:02I mean the confectioner used to lock the door to his confectionary when
0:40:02 > 0:40:05he made the ice cream because he didn't want anyone else to see it.
0:40:05 > 0:40:08Because it's actually very simple.
0:40:08 > 0:40:11So simple that after half an hour of gentle mixing
0:40:11 > 0:40:13we're seeing results all ready.
0:40:13 > 0:40:16- Well, we're getting there, look. - OK, yes.
0:40:16 > 0:40:17Doesn't that look good?
0:40:20 > 0:40:22Do you know...
0:40:22 > 0:40:24that is absolutely perfect?
0:40:24 > 0:40:26It's better than all the others
0:40:26 > 0:40:28because it's made in the old fashioned way.
0:40:29 > 0:40:32But I'll be honest, while I'm familiar
0:40:32 > 0:40:35with the salt and ice freezing method,
0:40:35 > 0:40:37I don't understand how it actually works.
0:40:39 > 0:40:42So I'm heading off to the University College London for a lesson
0:40:42 > 0:40:44in the science of ice cream.
0:40:46 > 0:40:49My teacher today is Andrea Seller,
0:40:49 > 0:40:51a professor of chemistry.
0:40:51 > 0:40:55He also happens to be a big fan of ice cream - a winning combination.
0:40:57 > 0:41:00Hello, nice to meet you at last.
0:41:00 > 0:41:01Nice to see you, Andrea.
0:41:01 > 0:41:04I haven't been in a science lab since I was at school.
0:41:04 > 0:41:06It's got the same sort of feeling.
0:41:06 > 0:41:07The odd Bunsen burner about?
0:41:07 > 0:41:10We've actually got a Bunsen burner sort of ready.
0:41:10 > 0:41:11Come on then, let's get going.
0:41:13 > 0:41:17Now, ice cream is particularly fascinating because it combines all
0:41:17 > 0:41:21kinds of aspects in both chemistry and physics all in one place.
0:41:21 > 0:41:24But no chemicals needed here.
0:41:24 > 0:41:25Like all the best dairy ice cream,
0:41:25 > 0:41:29this recipe starts with three simple ingredients -
0:41:29 > 0:41:30egg yolks, sugar and milk.
0:41:31 > 0:41:36What we'll do now is we'll put it into one of the oldest pieces
0:41:36 > 0:41:39of chemical apparatus and that's the Mary bath, the bain-Marie.
0:41:39 > 0:41:41Once the mixture is heated through
0:41:41 > 0:41:43and we're left with a smooth, custard consistency,
0:41:43 > 0:41:45it's ready for the next stage.
0:41:45 > 0:41:48OK, well, at this point we have to cool things down.
0:41:48 > 0:41:51So we're going to need...
0:41:51 > 0:41:54quite a lot of ice to get us going.
0:41:54 > 0:41:56What we're trying to achieve is really a temperature
0:41:56 > 0:41:58which is somewhere around minus 10 or thereabouts,
0:41:58 > 0:42:02in order to really achieve efficient cooling.
0:42:02 > 0:42:05Now ice and water on their own just aren't good enough.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08So what we have to do is to add salt.
0:42:08 > 0:42:11And so this is simply dishwasher salt.
0:42:11 > 0:42:13- Coarse salt. - Nothing special, coarse salt.
0:42:13 > 0:42:17I'm a bit puzzled at this stage because when it's snowing
0:42:17 > 0:42:19and our back-door step becomes icy,
0:42:19 > 0:42:23I put salt there and it melts the ice away
0:42:23 > 0:42:27and yet you're telling me that it's going to lower the temperature.
0:42:27 > 0:42:29Well, this is the extraordinary thing.
0:42:29 > 0:42:32It's completely the opposite of what you expect.
0:42:32 > 0:42:36It actually costs energy to actually melt the ice.
0:42:36 > 0:42:40Now what the salt does is something very, very clever.
0:42:40 > 0:42:43It dissolves in the water and it essentially
0:42:43 > 0:42:48gets in the way of water that wants to freeze back onto the ice.
0:42:48 > 0:42:51So that means that the ice continues to melt
0:42:51 > 0:42:54and so the temperature is going to continue to drop.
0:42:54 > 0:42:58You can see there, right, that we're all ready well below zero, right?
0:42:58 > 0:43:01Simply by putting in the salt and the ice, right?
0:43:01 > 0:43:04- Yes.- This mixture is at about minus 10 degrees.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08It may seem unbelievable but there's the evidence.
0:43:08 > 0:43:13We've made our own deep freeze with no electricity or chemicals.
0:43:13 > 0:43:15Just some ice and a handful of salt.
0:43:15 > 0:43:20Our mix is kind of getting close but we're not quite there.
0:43:20 > 0:43:22This takes quite a time, doesn't it?
0:43:22 > 0:43:23It does take a moment
0:43:23 > 0:43:27and so there is a much faster way, which is to actually use a coolant.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29But when impatient Andrea talks about coolant...
0:43:29 > 0:43:32We should probably get safety specs on at this point.
0:43:32 > 0:43:35He's not talking about your average freezer.
0:43:35 > 0:43:37This is liquid nitrogen.
0:43:37 > 0:43:39We're going to pour the liquid nitrogen directly inside
0:43:39 > 0:43:41so I need you to get your hands in there.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44Um, you need to stir like crazy and I'm going to pour.
0:43:44 > 0:43:46Ooh!
0:43:46 > 0:43:49- It's cold! - It is quite cold.
0:43:49 > 0:43:53It's at almost -200 degrees but you can feel it stiffening.
0:43:53 > 0:43:54It's... Yes.
0:43:54 > 0:43:55It's most exciting.
0:43:55 > 0:43:59And what we have is a lovely, basic...
0:43:59 > 0:44:01It's almost like magic, isn't it?
0:44:01 > 0:44:05By cooling it so very, very quickly, the ice crystals that
0:44:05 > 0:44:10are formed are very, very small and so it gives it a special creaminess.
0:44:10 > 0:44:13Well, I'm the privileged one to try first.
0:44:17 > 0:44:19Do you know that is just like velvet?
0:44:19 > 0:44:21There is not a crystal in sight.
0:44:21 > 0:44:26It's the smoothest, softest thing that you could possibly have.
0:44:28 > 0:44:31This next dairy ice cream is also smooth, soft and delicious
0:44:31 > 0:44:36and won't require salt, liquid nitrogen or even a professor.
0:44:36 > 0:44:40So simple to make - just five ingredients.
0:44:40 > 0:44:42Lemon, yoghurt, ice cream.
0:44:47 > 0:44:49So up with the...
0:44:49 > 0:44:50beater.
0:44:50 > 0:44:52No, I'm not going to do it by hand.
0:44:52 > 0:44:56No wonder those Victorian cooks had such muscles.
0:44:56 > 0:44:58They had to do so much beating with wire whisks.
0:44:58 > 0:45:00I'm using an electric one.
0:45:00 > 0:45:05I'm now going to whip the cream until it becomes just floppy.
0:45:11 > 0:45:15I'm going to take the zest off those lemons.
0:45:15 > 0:45:19This is one of my favourite recipes for ice cream.
0:45:19 > 0:45:21I got it, I suppose, 20 years ago.
0:45:22 > 0:45:27Um, from another mum at school. I've been making it ever since.
0:45:27 > 0:45:31I'm going to add the lemon rind, the lemon juice...
0:45:33 > 0:45:34..the sugar...
0:45:35 > 0:45:36..milk...
0:45:36 > 0:45:39last of all the yoghurt.
0:45:39 > 0:45:42Using yoghurt in an ice cream, instead of all cream,
0:45:42 > 0:45:44makes it sharp and less rich.
0:45:45 > 0:45:50Ice cream is one of my most favourite things to eat
0:45:50 > 0:45:52and it's something that the whole family enjoy.
0:45:55 > 0:45:59All I have to do now is to freeze it until it's solid.
0:46:01 > 0:46:04To break up any ice crystals, once its frozen,
0:46:04 > 0:46:07take it out then process and return it to the freezer.
0:46:08 > 0:46:11Here's one...
0:46:11 > 0:46:14that's been in about 12 hours to be sure to make it frozen.
0:46:15 > 0:46:17This is delicious in a cornet.
0:46:17 > 0:46:19Everybody likes a cornet.
0:46:19 > 0:46:21I somehow wish that Robin Wear was here
0:46:21 > 0:46:23because I bet he'd like this one.
0:46:25 > 0:46:29Just real, dairy ice cream with lots of lemon in.
0:46:37 > 0:46:40Well, I'm not going to eat all three but I can't wait.
0:46:42 > 0:46:44Mmm.
0:46:44 > 0:46:46It's just...
0:46:46 > 0:46:47scrumptious.
0:46:47 > 0:46:51You can really taste the lemon coming through and the zest too.
0:46:51 > 0:46:53Traditional dairy ice cream.
0:46:53 > 0:46:55You really can't beat it.
0:47:01 > 0:47:03The ice cream market is a busy one.
0:47:03 > 0:47:08From the budget soft scoop to the more expensive premium ranges.
0:47:08 > 0:47:13But in actual fact, the majority of ice cream consumed in the UK
0:47:13 > 0:47:17is made by just four companies, who own all the big brands.
0:47:19 > 0:47:22However, there's a growing breed of artisan ice cream makers,
0:47:22 > 0:47:26fighting their corner and waving their dairy flag.
0:47:26 > 0:47:28Mary, very nice to meet you.
0:47:28 > 0:47:31Alastair Jessel is a former city stockbroker.
0:47:31 > 0:47:33He now owns Taywell Ice Cream
0:47:33 > 0:47:38and is one of Europe's fastest-growing artisan producers.
0:47:39 > 0:47:41But can manufactured ice cream, on any scale,
0:47:41 > 0:47:44ever measure up to home-made?
0:47:44 > 0:47:46We make ice cream as it used to traditionally be made,
0:47:46 > 0:47:49actually by people like yourself.
0:47:49 > 0:47:53Using egg yolks, milk, cream,
0:47:53 > 0:47:56sugars and whatever flavours are going to go into it.
0:47:56 > 0:47:58So they're all dairy ice creams?
0:47:58 > 0:48:01We make dairy ice creams and we also make sorbets here.
0:48:01 > 0:48:07By law, anything labelled dairy ice cream can only contain dairy fats
0:48:07 > 0:48:11and can't contain cut-price alternatives.
0:48:11 > 0:48:14Unfortunately, many ice creams are made with palm oil.
0:48:14 > 0:48:17It's a much, much cheaper ingredient.
0:48:17 > 0:48:20It gives the fat content but you don't have the flavour.
0:48:20 > 0:48:23You don't have the flavour and everything is all about flavour.
0:48:23 > 0:48:25We have to keep banging on about flavour.
0:48:26 > 0:48:30Music to my ears but I must remind myself not to get too carried away.
0:48:31 > 0:48:35I'm trying not to put my finger in it as I go by.
0:48:35 > 0:48:37If I lift that up...
0:48:37 > 0:48:39So that really is a sort of creme anglaise.
0:48:39 > 0:48:41A good and rich, dairy custard.
0:48:42 > 0:48:43Absolutely.
0:48:43 > 0:48:47It's fantastic to see Alastair making ice cream
0:48:47 > 0:48:49with the same principles I use in my kitchen.
0:48:49 > 0:48:53But when it comes to some of the large-scale ice cream manufacturers,
0:48:53 > 0:48:56it's a different story.
0:48:56 > 0:48:58What you do if you're making it on a big scale is probably
0:48:58 > 0:49:02remove the milk and use powdered milk.
0:49:02 > 0:49:05You would add in water.
0:49:05 > 0:49:07You would also remove some of the cream.
0:49:08 > 0:49:12You would remove as many of the egg yolks as possible.
0:49:13 > 0:49:18For a light texture a certain amount of air in the mixture is essential.
0:49:20 > 0:49:23By the time we've finished potting these smaller tubs,
0:49:23 > 0:49:25there's probably less than 10% air.
0:49:25 > 0:49:27Normally an ice cream manufacturer would be
0:49:27 > 0:49:30pumping in at least 100%,
0:49:30 > 0:49:33sometimes up to 200% air into these ice creams
0:49:33 > 0:49:36and making it go twice as far and one of the interesting things
0:49:36 > 0:49:41about it is that ice cream is sold by volume not by weight.
0:49:41 > 0:49:44It's one of the rare foods actually sold that way.
0:49:44 > 0:49:46But of course the customer doesn't know that.
0:49:46 > 0:49:50You see the size of the tub and you think, "Oh I'll have that one."
0:49:50 > 0:49:54- Pick it up and if it's heavy it's good.- Exactly.
0:49:54 > 0:49:57To earn myself a taste, I offer to put my piping skills to work.
0:49:59 > 0:50:00- Lynn, can I have a go? - By all means.
0:50:00 > 0:50:02I don't think I'll be as good as you.
0:50:04 > 0:50:07Oh, that's fun. Well, that persons going to be lucky.
0:50:07 > 0:50:10You're going to have to adjust these, Lynn. They're not exactly easy.
0:50:10 > 0:50:14After doing my bit for portion control, it's finally time
0:50:14 > 0:50:19to see how Alastair's ice cream measures up to my own high standards.
0:50:21 > 0:50:23It's really wonderful.
0:50:23 > 0:50:25- Mmm.- Thank you.
0:50:25 > 0:50:30What a pleasure it is to see dairy ingredients all going in.
0:50:30 > 0:50:33Proper egg yolks, cream, milk.
0:50:33 > 0:50:36Natural flavourings and the results are perfect.
0:50:37 > 0:50:38What a treat.
0:50:39 > 0:50:41It's heartening to see it's not just me
0:50:41 > 0:50:44pushing for a revival of real, dairy ice cream.
0:50:55 > 0:50:59But artisan producers like Alistair are very much in the minority.
0:51:00 > 0:51:02I worry that the British taste buds have got used
0:51:02 > 0:51:04to the cheaper kind of ice cream.
0:51:04 > 0:51:07They wouldn't know the good stuff if it came up and bit them.
0:51:07 > 0:51:10Take some and try both.
0:51:11 > 0:51:14I'm putting these seasider's taste buds to the test.
0:51:14 > 0:51:16See what you think. There. Here's a spoon.
0:51:16 > 0:51:20In the blue bowls is my very own vanilla dairy ice cream,
0:51:20 > 0:51:23made with just five natural ingredients.
0:51:23 > 0:51:25How about that?
0:51:25 > 0:51:28In the red bowl is one of the biggest-selling vanilla ice creams
0:51:28 > 0:51:32with its 15 ingredients including vegetable fat, colours
0:51:32 > 0:51:36and emulsifiers but no mention of cream, eggs, or even vanilla.
0:51:39 > 0:51:42- Right.- I think I liked this one because it tasted better.
0:51:42 > 0:51:45I like this one but I like this one even better
0:51:45 > 0:51:46because it's really rich and creamy.
0:51:46 > 0:51:49It tastes different from the ice cream we have at home.
0:51:49 > 0:51:51- We all agree we like the blue one the best, don't we?- Yeah.
0:51:51 > 0:51:54- Much, much more.- A promising start for my dairy ice cream.
0:51:54 > 0:51:58I like this one better because it's creamier and sweeter
0:51:58 > 0:52:03but I would say that this is the one that we're more used to.
0:52:03 > 0:52:05- That one's smoother.- This one's delicious.- That's lovely.
0:52:05 > 0:52:08Does it taste different to the ice cream from your normal ice cream?
0:52:08 > 0:52:11- It tastes creamier. - That one's much better.
0:52:11 > 0:52:13- Which one? - This one tastes nicer.
0:52:13 > 0:52:16This one tastes more vanillay...and creamy.
0:52:16 > 0:52:17You've got very good taste.
0:52:17 > 0:52:19My blue pots are certainly taking the lead
0:52:19 > 0:52:22but some die-hards seem to be sticking with what they know.
0:52:22 > 0:52:24I love both of them
0:52:24 > 0:52:26but I'm probably going to have to go for this one
0:52:26 > 0:52:28because it's tastier.
0:52:28 > 0:52:29Which is the one you're used to?
0:52:29 > 0:52:31This one.
0:52:31 > 0:52:36But will knowing more about what's in the ice creams change their mind?
0:52:36 > 0:52:37That is the real thing.
0:52:37 > 0:52:40It's just five ingredients...
0:52:40 > 0:52:43and in the other one there are 15.
0:52:43 > 0:52:46- Oh, my God.- Oh, my gosh. - Wow.
0:52:46 > 0:52:48- Does that tempt you? - No, not really, no.
0:52:48 > 0:52:50I'd definitely go for that one.
0:52:50 > 0:52:52Now I know the ingredients, I think I'd probably go
0:52:52 > 0:52:54for the more natural one.
0:52:54 > 0:52:57- Did you make this one? - That's my recipe, yes.
0:52:57 > 0:52:59It's very nice.
0:52:59 > 0:53:01"A resounding success" I'd say.
0:53:01 > 0:53:05The people have spoken out for proper, home-made, dairy ice cream.
0:53:10 > 0:53:14So I've proved that there's a taste out there for dairy ice cream
0:53:14 > 0:53:16but I want more than that.
0:53:16 > 0:53:20I'm determined that I'm going to get you making real dairy ice cream
0:53:20 > 0:53:24at home and this time I'm making a proper custard ice cream
0:53:24 > 0:53:27and I'm going to use it for Baked Alaska.
0:53:32 > 0:53:36An arctic mountain. A layer of sponge underneath.
0:53:36 > 0:53:38Lots of ice cream in a huge pile.
0:53:38 > 0:53:41Then sealed with a meringue on top
0:53:41 > 0:53:43and baked in the oven for a very short time,
0:53:43 > 0:53:46just a little tinge of brown and serve it.
0:53:46 > 0:53:49So first of all I'm going to infuse the milk and cream
0:53:49 > 0:53:51with a vanilla pod.
0:53:51 > 0:53:55I'm going to bring that just below the boil and leave it for an hour.
0:53:56 > 0:54:00Now the egg yolks and I'm going to whisk them with the sugar.
0:54:03 > 0:54:05Until it's light and foamy.
0:54:08 > 0:54:11Put all that together.
0:54:11 > 0:54:14This is the same principal we saw Alastair using in his recipes
0:54:14 > 0:54:16but on a much smaller scale.
0:54:18 > 0:54:22It was lovely to visit a small, artisan ice cream maker
0:54:22 > 0:54:25and he was using the real, dairy ingredients
0:54:25 > 0:54:29and just the sort of thing that I've been using today.
0:54:29 > 0:54:32I don't buy ice cream because it's so easy to make
0:54:32 > 0:54:35and it's good to have in the freezer.
0:54:35 > 0:54:38After all doesn't apple pie taste that much better
0:54:38 > 0:54:41with a lovely scoop of home-made ice cream with it?
0:54:41 > 0:54:44I'm using an ice cream machine to save time but you can get
0:54:44 > 0:54:49similar results by freezing it and processing it once or twice.
0:54:49 > 0:54:54Custard is the original ice cream.
0:54:54 > 0:54:57If you look into the early ice creams in Mrs Beeton,
0:54:57 > 0:55:02they were always made from the basic creme anglaise or custard
0:55:02 > 0:55:06and we leave that just until it's set and firm.
0:55:08 > 0:55:11It's a good idea to freeze your sponge base
0:55:11 > 0:55:12before you start assembling.
0:55:14 > 0:55:17This is for grown ups, so how about a little bit of booze on it?
0:55:17 > 0:55:21Because we're putting cherries in, it could be, this is Kirsch.
0:55:21 > 0:55:22It could be one of the orange liquors.
0:55:22 > 0:55:25Have a look in the cupboard and see what you've got.
0:55:25 > 0:55:28Something that goes well with a fruitiness.
0:55:28 > 0:55:31Then I'm going to put cherry jam over the top of that.
0:55:31 > 0:55:32Next is the ice cream.
0:55:34 > 0:55:36So scoopfuls all the way round.
0:55:36 > 0:55:40This may be the adult version but leave out the alcohol
0:55:40 > 0:55:43and you've got a feast fit for everyone.
0:55:43 > 0:55:45This is a huge family favourite.
0:55:45 > 0:55:47The grandchildren absolutely love it.
0:55:47 > 0:55:49So there we are we're making our mountain
0:55:49 > 0:55:52ready for the arctic...
0:55:52 > 0:55:55covering of meringue.
0:55:55 > 0:55:57The meringue we used in our first recipe
0:55:57 > 0:55:59and I'm putting it over the top.
0:55:59 > 0:56:02Start from the outside
0:56:02 > 0:56:07and make sure that you seal every little bit.
0:56:07 > 0:56:09If you don't seal it, the ice cream will melt.
0:56:11 > 0:56:13This is what I would call a show stopper.
0:56:14 > 0:56:18It only needs a few minutes in the oven until it's lightly golden.
0:56:18 > 0:56:20So there we are - baked Alaska.
0:56:21 > 0:56:23It looks even better with a few cherries on top.
0:56:36 > 0:56:39That reminds me of my childhood.
0:56:39 > 0:56:42Real, proper, dairy ice cream.
0:56:42 > 0:56:45Well worth reviving and making at home.
0:56:45 > 0:56:47I'm in for a second bite.
0:56:49 > 0:56:54All over the country people are joining a dairy ice cream revival
0:56:54 > 0:56:57and a new generation is pushing it to its limits.
0:56:57 > 0:56:59There you go, thanks a lot.
0:56:59 > 0:57:01Manchester-based Clare Kelsey spends her summers
0:57:01 > 0:57:03hitting the festival circuit.
0:57:03 > 0:57:05She has an ice cream van named Ginger
0:57:05 > 0:57:07and an interesting collection of flavours.
0:57:07 > 0:57:08There you go, lovely.
0:57:08 > 0:57:11I have got salted caramel and peanut butter.
0:57:11 > 0:57:12It's very good.
0:57:12 > 0:57:14It's fairly spectacular.
0:57:14 > 0:57:18Peanut butter being the greatest thing in the world, so yeah.
0:57:18 > 0:57:20Rhubarb crumble, which is delicious.
0:57:20 > 0:57:21Very rhubarby.
0:57:21 > 0:57:25This is olive oil and sea salt ice cream. Let's try it.
0:57:25 > 0:57:28It's quite hard to describe, it's definitely moreish.
0:57:28 > 0:57:31I think it's the salt that's making it moreish, it's not very salty.
0:57:31 > 0:57:32It's delicious.
0:57:32 > 0:57:35People are a bit shocked at first when they see certain things
0:57:35 > 0:57:36on the menu like marmalade on toast
0:57:36 > 0:57:39or the extra virgin oil flavour and they're surprised
0:57:39 > 0:57:44but then when they try a little bit, they genuinely quite like it.
0:57:44 > 0:57:45It works.
0:57:45 > 0:57:47No ice cream I've had before has tasted like that.
0:57:47 > 0:57:49It was really good.
0:57:49 > 0:57:52With ingredients including olive oil, peppercorns, toast,
0:57:52 > 0:57:56salt, chestnuts and even rosemary, you might well think that
0:57:56 > 0:57:59some customers would be scared off but far from it.
0:57:59 > 0:58:02Mmm. I can hardly talk because I just want to lick it.
0:58:02 > 0:58:04- Happy days!- Wowzer.
0:58:04 > 0:58:07Once this takes off nobody will want anything else.
0:58:10 > 0:58:14So I think ice cream's ingredients should always be simple
0:58:14 > 0:58:16and should always be dairy.
0:58:16 > 0:58:18I've shown you with those three recipes,
0:58:18 > 0:58:21it's really easy to make it yourself.
0:58:21 > 0:58:23So have a go and you won't regret it.
0:58:26 > 0:58:28Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd