0:00:01 > 0:00:02'By now you've probably realised
0:00:02 > 0:00:06'that there are two things that we really love in this world.'
0:00:06 > 0:00:08'Biking and baking.'
0:00:08 > 0:00:10'So we've decided to combine them.'
0:00:10 > 0:00:13'In an epic five-thousand-mile Bakeation.'
0:00:13 > 0:00:17'So far, Europe's been good to us.'
0:00:17 > 0:00:20'And with three stages done, it's time for a bit more of a challenge.'
0:00:20 > 0:00:22'You're right, dude, bring on Eastern Europe.'
0:00:22 > 0:00:26'Specifically, we've got Slovakia first,
0:00:26 > 0:00:27'then Hungary,
0:00:27 > 0:00:30'and finally Romania.'
0:00:30 > 0:00:34'It's a biggie, and I'm expecting, well, the unexpected.'
0:00:34 > 0:00:35Sweetheart!
0:00:35 > 0:00:39'It's amazing to think that by the end of this one,
0:00:39 > 0:00:40'we'll be halfway through!'
0:00:40 > 0:00:44'Yeah, mate, but there's a good few countries left to go.
0:00:44 > 0:00:45'Austria, Italy...'
0:00:45 > 0:00:47- Look at the nuts on that. - Thanks very much!
0:00:47 > 0:00:48THEY LAUGH
0:00:48 > 0:00:52'France, and finally Spain.'
0:00:52 > 0:00:54We love you more than you'll ever know.
0:00:54 > 0:00:57'We can be glad that it's not only us doing the cooking.'
0:00:57 > 0:00:58'Yes -
0:00:58 > 0:01:01'we've lined up some of the world's very best bakers
0:01:01 > 0:01:03'to teach us a thing or two.'
0:01:03 > 0:01:05'So sit back and relax.'
0:01:05 > 0:01:10- 'It's time for the next leg of our spectacular...'- BOTH: 'Bakeation.'
0:01:18 > 0:01:21'These days, the European Union is forever expanding its boundaries.'
0:01:21 > 0:01:25'So it's only right us Brits should start to expand ours.'
0:01:25 > 0:01:29'To see how a rejuvenated Eastern Europe
0:01:29 > 0:01:31'is revitalising its rich baking heritage.'
0:01:31 > 0:01:34'The capital of Slovakia, Bratislava,
0:01:34 > 0:01:36'is where we'll begin our odyssey.'
0:01:36 > 0:01:38'It's slap bang on the mighty River Danube,
0:01:38 > 0:01:42'and practically sits on the hem of the old Iron Curtain.'
0:01:42 > 0:01:46'Yet during Communism, it was a world away from the West.'
0:01:46 > 0:01:49'The same can't be said these days.'
0:01:49 > 0:01:51Cor! What a ride that was.
0:01:51 > 0:01:54All the way from Bavaria to Bratislava.
0:01:54 > 0:01:57Hey, but dude, worth every single mile. What a fabulous city.
0:01:57 > 0:02:00It truly is where Eastern Europe meets Western Europe.
0:02:00 > 0:02:02- Yeah. The gateway, dude, the gateway.- Oh aye.
0:02:02 > 0:02:05And as we head east,
0:02:05 > 0:02:08I long to shake off the oppressive shackles
0:02:08 > 0:02:12of capitalism and commercialism, and enter that new world.
0:02:13 > 0:02:15'That new world starts here in Bratislava,
0:02:15 > 0:02:18'before we travel on to Hungary.'
0:02:18 > 0:02:20'Then we push further east into Romania,
0:02:20 > 0:02:22'to the very edge of the European Union.'
0:02:22 > 0:02:25Cos we're travelling to Romania for...
0:02:25 > 0:02:27..a big beano!
0:02:27 > 0:02:28- It'll be brilliant!- Yeah.
0:02:28 > 0:02:31You see, the reason we're having a party is, my wife's Romanian,
0:02:31 > 0:02:34and we're going to go to Transylvania to see me in-laws.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37'I've not seen them since the wedding. What a day that was.
0:02:37 > 0:02:40'They certainly know how to party in Romania.'
0:02:40 > 0:02:43'I can't wait to see them again, dude.
0:02:43 > 0:02:46'But we've got a lot to explore before then.'
0:02:46 > 0:02:49'I'm looking forward to taking in the magnificent cafe culture
0:02:49 > 0:02:50'in Budapest.
0:02:50 > 0:02:52'They've said goodbye to Communism,
0:02:52 > 0:02:56'and rediscovered the decadent art of fine patisserie.'
0:02:56 > 0:02:58Then we go across the Hungarian plains.
0:02:58 > 0:03:01But what we must do as well is get off that road before the border,
0:03:01 > 0:03:02and explore a bit.
0:03:02 > 0:03:04'But it won't be all fine dining.
0:03:04 > 0:03:06'With that many miles to cover,
0:03:06 > 0:03:10'we'll need to sample some roadside snacks, Hungarian style.'
0:03:10 > 0:03:13'Then, at last, we'll hit rural Romania.'
0:03:13 > 0:03:16'Aye, where hearty rustic baking rules the day.'
0:03:16 > 0:03:19'And I can't wait to see my wife and her family.
0:03:19 > 0:03:22'They always put on such a fantastic spread.'
0:03:22 > 0:03:24'Dude, I'm itching to get started.'
0:03:24 > 0:03:27- We should have brought them something from England.- Oh aye.
0:03:27 > 0:03:29But hey... Marks and Spencer.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32I tell you what, I could do with some new undies as well,
0:03:32 > 0:03:33they're a bit threadbare.
0:03:33 > 0:03:35Da da da la da da!
0:03:35 > 0:03:39You could be anywhere. This is the beginning of homogenised Europe.
0:03:39 > 0:03:43'It's incredible how far east western Europe's come.'
0:03:43 > 0:03:44- Come on, you pervert.- Sorry.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47Damska moda, that would be ladies' fashion.
0:03:47 > 0:03:50Per Una, damska obuv, this is all damskas.
0:03:50 > 0:03:53- So it makes sense that manskas... - Yeah...
0:03:53 > 0:03:55Is downstairs-skas.
0:03:56 > 0:03:58Is it just me, or is it you worry?
0:03:58 > 0:04:02It truly is like a corner of Blighty in far Bratislava.
0:04:05 > 0:04:06Waist 36.
0:04:09 > 0:04:11'That's all very well, Kingy,
0:04:11 > 0:04:13'but it's not the Bratislava I came to see.'
0:04:13 > 0:04:14- Bye-bye.- Bye-bye!- Bye-bye!
0:04:17 > 0:04:19'We'd struggle to find a true taste of Bratislava
0:04:19 > 0:04:21'in your average shopping mall.'
0:04:21 > 0:04:24'As Dylan sang, "The times they are a changin',"
0:04:24 > 0:04:26'and here in this small country,
0:04:26 > 0:04:29'it's been a long and winding road from Communism to cafe culture.'
0:04:29 > 0:04:32'So let's leave the big brands behind,
0:04:32 > 0:04:34'and get a slice of the real Slovakia.'
0:04:35 > 0:04:38Well, Marks and Spencers, it's all very well, but...
0:04:38 > 0:04:42Where do Slovakians go for their baking?
0:04:42 > 0:04:45- Oh, I think I might have the answer. - Ooh!- Ooh!
0:04:45 > 0:04:47- This looks good. - It does, doesn't it?
0:04:47 > 0:04:50That's all homemade baking, isn't it?
0:04:50 > 0:04:52- Hello!- Hello. I'm Dave.
0:04:52 > 0:04:53- Mirka.- Mirka?
0:04:53 > 0:04:55- Mirka, hi, I'm Si.- Hi. - Good to meet you.- Nice to meet you.
0:04:55 > 0:04:56Hey, what a great cafe.
0:04:56 > 0:05:00- We've found baking!- Yes!
0:05:00 > 0:05:02'So let's grab a seat and try some of this for ourselves.'
0:05:04 > 0:05:05Ooh!
0:05:05 > 0:05:09- So you are getting each sort so that you can share.- Brilliant. Thank you.
0:05:09 > 0:05:11This is traditional plum cake.
0:05:11 > 0:05:14Plum is a widely used fruit in Slovakia.
0:05:14 > 0:05:16- Many people make alcohol out of it. - Yeah?
0:05:16 > 0:05:17But we make cakes. DAVE LAUGHS
0:05:17 > 0:05:20And this is Tvaroh torte.
0:05:20 > 0:05:24Basically a cheesecake, and we serve it with homemade strawberry jam.
0:05:24 > 0:05:25Oh wow!
0:05:25 > 0:05:26And finally, this super crumble
0:05:26 > 0:05:30with rhubarb, plums again and apples.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32- May I join you? - Oh, you absolutely may.- Yes, please.
0:05:32 > 0:05:33Oh, do you mind if we tuck in?
0:05:37 > 0:05:40That's lovely, because it's not too sweet, and you can taste the plums.
0:05:40 > 0:05:42Oh, it's lovely.
0:05:42 > 0:05:45What for you is Slovakian baking?
0:05:45 > 0:05:49For me, Slovakian baking is using what you have in your backyard,
0:05:49 > 0:05:54and using traditional ways of doing it.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58But nowadays, I think it's taken an interesting turn,
0:05:58 > 0:06:02because we are being opened to different influences.
0:06:02 > 0:06:05People have started to travel. We watch even British cooking shows.
0:06:05 > 0:06:08Have things changed an awful lot in Slovakia in the past ten years?
0:06:08 > 0:06:11During the Communism regime, everything was quite scarce.
0:06:11 > 0:06:15People didn't travel, people didn't get ideas from outside.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18We don't want to go back to those days, because choice is always nice.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20'So they're mixing it up a bit.'
0:06:20 > 0:06:24'This American-style cheesecake is made using tvaroh -
0:06:24 > 0:06:27'a Slovak soft cheese.'
0:06:27 > 0:06:30- Oh! That's lovely! - That is, isn't it?
0:06:30 > 0:06:31I can't wait to taste that.
0:06:31 > 0:06:33'And a crumble? We could be at home.'
0:06:33 > 0:06:36'It must be all those British cookery shows
0:06:36 > 0:06:38'they've been watching over here, Dave.'
0:06:38 > 0:06:41- Mmh. Oh, that's a brilliant crumble. - Beautiful.
0:06:41 > 0:06:43It's good, traditional home cooking.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46When I looked at the menu, just the little twists on everything,
0:06:46 > 0:06:48and I think that's what, whatever a good cafe,
0:06:48 > 0:06:49a good restaurant should do.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51That's a big compliment from you. Thank you.
0:06:51 > 0:06:53Because you must know your stuff.
0:06:54 > 0:06:57'Well, we do know our stuff when it comes to eating cakes,
0:06:57 > 0:06:58'don't we, Dave?'
0:06:58 > 0:07:01'It's all the practice we get, Kingy.'
0:07:01 > 0:07:04'New ideas seem to be flooding into Slovakia.'
0:07:04 > 0:07:07'So it's only natural that bakers like Mirka
0:07:07 > 0:07:10'are soaking up all those new-found foreign influences.'
0:07:10 > 0:07:11'While we're here,
0:07:11 > 0:07:14'we want to have a crack at something really traditional -
0:07:14 > 0:07:16'an age-old Slovakian classic.'
0:07:16 > 0:07:19'And where better to head
0:07:19 > 0:07:22'than the city's ancient historic castle overlooking the Danube?'
0:07:22 > 0:07:25'To cook a glamorous Slovakian cousin
0:07:25 > 0:07:27'of our own humble bread and butter pudding -
0:07:27 > 0:07:28'Zemlovka.'
0:07:30 > 0:07:31Gem-klova.
0:07:31 > 0:07:32Zem-sclova!
0:07:32 > 0:07:33Gemsclova.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36Gems... Anyway, it's a bread and butter pudding from Slovakia.
0:07:36 > 0:07:38But the secret is, this bread and butter pudding
0:07:38 > 0:07:41is quite heavily spiced, and it's stuffed full of fruit.
0:07:42 > 0:07:44So you can have two of your five-a-day,
0:07:44 > 0:07:46and still feel like, "Yum, it's good."
0:07:46 > 0:07:49Seasonal fruit at that, you can put in what you like.
0:07:49 > 0:07:52He's the sort that'll have two of his five-a-days with a vodka and orange.
0:07:52 > 0:07:54It doesn't work like that, doesn't it?
0:07:54 > 0:07:58- It does! It's orange juice, what's the matter? Anyway, crack on. - Right. Right.
0:07:58 > 0:07:59Uh-uh-uh-uh.
0:07:59 > 0:08:05My UFO has landed over on the Danube, I come in peace, Earthling!
0:08:06 > 0:08:08Give us that!
0:08:08 > 0:08:11We've got to cook in that, you've had your head in it!
0:08:11 > 0:08:13Milk goes into pan.
0:08:13 > 0:08:15The butter goes into milk.
0:08:15 > 0:08:17Ugh!
0:08:17 > 0:08:19- Sorry, is that melted? - Yeah.- Ha ha ha.
0:08:19 > 0:08:22- Oh we're playing that game, are we? - Oh, no, no...
0:08:22 > 0:08:25- Oh, well... - Clean, clean, Simon.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27- Yeah, well just be careful. - No butter on new togs.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31Stick this on the heat till the butter's melted.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34- It can't be more complicated than that.- No. Is it on, dude?
0:08:34 > 0:08:37Oh, aye, soon it'll be bubbling like a Bratislavan go-go dancer.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40When have you been to a Bratislavan go-go dancer?
0:08:40 > 0:08:42You're a dark horse, you.
0:08:42 > 0:08:45You don't think I was sitting in that hotel room, do you, all night?
0:08:45 > 0:08:47I was out ripping up Bratislava.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49Yeah, right.
0:08:49 > 0:08:51Eggs - one...
0:08:51 > 0:08:52..two...
0:08:52 > 0:08:54..three.
0:08:54 > 0:08:56And after that, we add some sugar.
0:08:56 > 0:09:02Take the whisk, and whisk those three eggs and the sugar together.
0:09:02 > 0:09:05There's one thing that's come to my mind since we started doing the baking on the road.
0:09:05 > 0:09:08- What's that, mate?- That, compared to other forms of cookery,
0:09:08 > 0:09:11baking can involve a certain amount of manual labour.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14Ah! It has crossed your mind, has it?
0:09:14 > 0:09:15Handy, that!
0:09:15 > 0:09:16Right. Go on, mate.
0:09:16 > 0:09:19Now onto the spicing of the Zemlovka.
0:09:19 > 0:09:21Go on, say it again, but a bit butch.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24Zemlovka!
0:09:24 > 0:09:26Now we couldn't kind of get any vanilla extract,
0:09:26 > 0:09:30vanilla paste or fresh vanilla, but we've got some vanilla sugar.
0:09:30 > 0:09:33- How much do we put in?- Erm...
0:09:33 > 0:09:35- That'll do.- That'll do.
0:09:35 > 0:09:38For the pedantic amongst you, it's about a teaspoon of nutmeg.
0:09:38 > 0:09:45And just whisk those as you go, into that lovely - ooh!
0:09:45 > 0:09:47Cinnamon.
0:09:47 > 0:09:49A teaspoon.
0:09:50 > 0:09:55If you follow this recipe at home, don't be too pedantic
0:09:55 > 0:09:57with what fruit you use, what type of bread you use,
0:09:57 > 0:09:59indeed, how much spice you use.
0:09:59 > 0:10:01It's really going to work,
0:10:01 > 0:10:03it's going to set solid and it's going to taste great.
0:10:03 > 0:10:07- So a little bit of what you fancy with this one...- Does you good.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10- Now, I'll just check the buttery milk.- Ooh!
0:10:11 > 0:10:14- Beautiful.- It is, isn't it?
0:10:14 > 0:10:17So there we have it. This is the liquid part -
0:10:17 > 0:10:19the dribbly bit - of your Zemlovka!
0:10:21 > 0:10:24'In the old Communist Bratislava, you wouldn't have found
0:10:24 > 0:10:27'fancy French bread like this brioche for your Zemlovka, oh, no!
0:10:27 > 0:10:30'But in the new Slovakia, well now that's a different story.'
0:10:30 > 0:10:33- There you go. - Thank you very much-ski.
0:10:35 > 0:10:37'When you start building a Zemlovka,
0:10:37 > 0:10:40'it's much like the bread and butter pudding your mum makes.
0:10:40 > 0:10:44'Layers of bread, and raisins soaked in tea.'
0:10:46 > 0:10:52Now, we need to go on to the fruit part of this lovely, lovely pudding.
0:10:52 > 0:10:56'As with the bread, you can use any seasonal fruit you like.
0:10:56 > 0:10:58'We've gone for apples and pears.
0:10:58 > 0:11:03'But when they're about, nectarines and plums are also popular in Slovakia.'
0:11:03 > 0:11:05BOTH: Da-dum, da-dum, da-dum, da-dum-dum.
0:11:05 > 0:11:10I remember me mam saying, "A gentleman needs to learn how to dance."
0:11:11 > 0:11:13Put your hand up behind my back.
0:11:16 > 0:11:22BOTH: One two three, one two three, one two three, one two three,
0:11:22 > 0:11:25da da da-da-da...
0:11:25 > 0:11:27You'd be a right fat girl if you were a girl.
0:11:27 > 0:11:29Anyway, right.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32'Zemlovka is a very old Slovak recipe.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35'But most cultures have some sort of bread and butter pudding.
0:11:35 > 0:11:37'It's a waste-not, want-not dish,
0:11:37 > 0:11:40'perfect for using up yesterday's stale loaf.
0:11:40 > 0:11:43'And by combining the bread with a glut of seasonal fruit,
0:11:43 > 0:11:46'you've got quite a satisfying yet frugal recipe.
0:11:46 > 0:11:51'So no wonder it's occasionally eaten here as a main course.'
0:11:51 > 0:11:54Now put on the eggs, butter, milk and spice mixture.
0:11:54 > 0:11:56And that's going to soak down into the bread
0:11:56 > 0:12:00and it's going to bake into quite a nice little custard.
0:12:00 > 0:12:04'Let's sprinkle on some rough cane sugar to give it a golden caramel glaze.'
0:12:04 > 0:12:08And how long does that go into the oven for. Dave?
0:12:08 > 0:12:10- How long do you think, Si? - Till it's cooked.
0:12:10 > 0:12:13Yes, which will be about half an hour to 40 minutes at 180 Celsius.
0:12:13 > 0:12:15Thank you!
0:12:23 > 0:12:28Ah! Smells great. Oh-ho-ho!
0:12:28 > 0:12:32That, I think, is what you would call a great success.
0:12:41 > 0:12:43- Zemlovka.- Zemlovka.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47- My first taste. - That texture's perfect.- Isn't it?
0:12:47 > 0:12:50It's like bread and butter pudding crossed with a Dutch apple cake.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53With a bit of Christmas thrown in for good measure.
0:12:53 > 0:12:56- I'm enjoying this, man, it's really good.- It's beautiful.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58What a place to eat it, as well.
0:12:58 > 0:13:00Yeah, you've got the Austrian wind farms over there.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03- Hungary. - Yeah, Budapest beckons.
0:13:03 > 0:13:06And then, way over the hill, Transylvania.
0:13:06 > 0:13:08Meet my mother-in-law.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14MUSIC: "Let' Tmou" by Kamil Mikulcik and Nela Pociskova
0:13:14 > 0:13:16Most of us only ever come across Slovakia
0:13:16 > 0:13:19when we see them on the Eurovision Song Contest.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22But we've been here just one day
0:13:22 > 0:13:24and there's obviously so much more to this tiny country.
0:13:24 > 0:13:28We'd love to hang around, but with so many miles to cover tomorrow,
0:13:28 > 0:13:30we set our sights eastwards.
0:13:30 > 0:13:32A new day, a new country.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53Eee, I hope you've packed the factor 50, Kingy.
0:13:53 > 0:13:55Oh, yeah, it's another glorious day, dude,
0:13:55 > 0:13:58but we've got biking and baking to do - let's crack on.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03Today we're leaving Bratislava and crossing into Hungary
0:14:03 > 0:14:06with the SatNav set for its capital, Budapest.
0:14:08 > 0:14:12You know Kingy, what makes this journey so exciting
0:14:12 > 0:14:16is that before 1990, we wouldn't have been able to do any of it.
0:14:16 > 0:14:20No, the Iron Curtain would have stopped us before we got anywhere near Bratislava.
0:14:20 > 0:14:22Today it's barely a lace curtain,
0:14:22 > 0:14:25so at the Hungarian border, you can just ride straight through.
0:14:25 > 0:14:29Mind you, the rain seems to have been pulled in at customs.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32Oh, lovely, mate, I'm drying out nicely.
0:14:36 > 0:14:39There's an old Skoda!
0:14:39 > 0:14:43In Bratislava we saw the flood of western influences,
0:14:43 > 0:14:45fusing with traditional Slovakian baking.
0:14:51 > 0:14:55But the fall of Communism here in Hungary has seen a rebirth
0:14:55 > 0:14:58in their rich food culture, and they like to celebrate it.
0:15:02 > 0:15:04This is more like it, this is Eastern Europe.
0:15:04 > 0:15:07it's all depression and guns and that, it's brilliant.
0:15:07 > 0:15:09But it's not all muck and bullets, you know.
0:15:09 > 0:15:14You see, a museum is always like a mirror - a reflection of the country's culture,
0:15:14 > 0:15:18and Hungarians are obsessed by food. This is a bread museum!
0:15:18 > 0:15:20Hold on, hold on.
0:15:20 > 0:15:24That is a 100mm MT12 tipusu panceltoro de waff-waff wa-ticky.
0:15:24 > 0:15:25That, dude, is a gun.
0:15:25 > 0:15:29And this, my friend, is a goulash gun - the field kitchen.
0:15:29 > 0:15:31For knocking out goulash on a daily basis for the troops.
0:15:31 > 0:15:34You see, Napoleon was right, wasn't he?
0:15:34 > 0:15:35An army marches on its stomach.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37Good idea if you ask me.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40Next you'll be saying there's a bread bazooka somewhere.
0:15:40 > 0:15:41It's over there.
0:15:41 > 0:15:43What?
0:15:43 > 0:15:46- There she is, isn't she beautiful? - Magnificent.
0:15:46 > 0:15:50This illustrates just how important bread is to the Hungarians,
0:15:50 > 0:15:53that they would take this basically portable oven
0:15:53 > 0:15:56into the battlefield to make their daily bread.
0:15:56 > 0:16:00And that says something about the Hungarians' passion about food.
0:16:00 > 0:16:03As do these indicators - anybody that puts indicators
0:16:03 > 0:16:06on their bread oven's all right with me, I tell you!
0:16:06 > 0:16:08They're not going to lose it, are they?
0:16:08 > 0:16:11But alongside all the weaponry, there's the goulash gun
0:16:11 > 0:16:14- and you've got your bread oven. - It's brilliant, man.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17It must be so important - thing is, I haven't seen any bread yet.
0:16:17 > 0:16:18Where's the bread museum then?
0:16:18 > 0:16:20Over there.
0:16:20 > 0:16:22- Bread Museum.- Kenyermuzeum.
0:16:27 > 0:16:28Man, this is mad!
0:16:30 > 0:16:32Bread that looks like a wedding cake.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- Look at that, bread on string... - Bread that looks like sausages.
0:16:35 > 0:16:37Plaited bread.
0:16:37 > 0:16:38A chain of pretzels.
0:16:38 > 0:16:41Man, there's so many varieties here.
0:16:41 > 0:16:44Yes! The crackling scones that we're going to cook.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46Oh, brilliant!
0:16:46 > 0:16:50- Do you know, we've even got the lattice absolutely dead right.- Yes!
0:16:50 > 0:16:54'A bread museum might seem a mad idea to us.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57'But, under the uniformity of Communism,
0:16:57 > 0:17:01'all these wonderful breads were replaced by identical loaves
0:17:01 > 0:17:05- 'from bread factory number 47. - That sounds a bit dull, Comrade King-ski.
0:17:05 > 0:17:09'It was! But, seeing that amazing variety suggests to me
0:17:09 > 0:17:13'that these Hungarian bakers are a passionate lot.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16'Well, I can't wait to get to Budapest, mate -
0:17:16 > 0:17:18'I think we might be in for a treat.'
0:17:28 > 0:17:30Here we are - Budapest.
0:17:30 > 0:17:33Ooh-er, looks a bit posh, mate, doesn't it?
0:17:33 > 0:17:37Built on the banks of the very River Danube we left behind in Bratislava,
0:17:37 > 0:17:42Budapest has undeniably a grand and opulent feel.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45I'm definitely not getting the eastern bloc vibe though, are you?
0:17:45 > 0:17:48Looking about, it's not surprising the scholars of the day
0:17:48 > 0:17:50referred to it as the Paris of the east.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54Apparently, at one time the only city in Europe
0:17:54 > 0:17:56to have more cafes was Paris itself.
0:17:56 > 0:18:00Yeah, regimes and wars may have come and gone in Budapest,
0:18:00 > 0:18:03but cafes and cakes are something that's in the DNA of this city.
0:18:03 > 0:18:05But Communism and cakes?
0:18:05 > 0:18:07Yes, they're so bourgeois, so very decadent.
0:18:07 > 0:18:10So how did they fare under Stalinism?
0:18:10 > 0:18:13Well, we've heard about a 140-year-old patisserie
0:18:13 > 0:18:15with a very decadent menu.
0:18:20 > 0:18:23Now this is a part of eastern European life that I could get to love,
0:18:23 > 0:18:25sitting in a place like this,
0:18:25 > 0:18:29just thinking about philosophy and writing my novel.
0:18:29 > 0:18:31But you don't get up till 11 o'clock.
0:18:31 > 0:18:34I know what you're like, you'd end up in a gulag.
0:18:35 > 0:18:37'That would never do, Kingy.
0:18:37 > 0:18:41'You couldn't get cake like this Kremes in a Siberian gulag.
0:18:41 > 0:18:44'These rich layers of vanilla egg custard encased in puff pastry
0:18:44 > 0:18:48'would have Stalin turning in his grave.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51'Auguszta's the fifth generation of the Auguszt family
0:18:51 > 0:18:54'to devote themselves to the art of fine patisserie.'
0:18:54 > 0:18:59Auguszta, your cafe in Budapest has quite a big reputation.
0:18:59 > 0:19:02Why is it so special?
0:19:02 > 0:19:03Because we have good cakes,
0:19:03 > 0:19:07and we've been having good cakes for 140 years now.
0:19:07 > 0:19:11Patisserie, as opposed to baking, it can be quite decadent, can't it?
0:19:11 > 0:19:13It's a treat, it's a luxury.
0:19:13 > 0:19:16So how did you cope with the patisserie during the Communist times?
0:19:16 > 0:19:19It was a very difficult period.
0:19:19 > 0:19:23My grandparents, they were deported to a little small village
0:19:23 > 0:19:26with three little children.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31Their shop was taken away, their home was taken away
0:19:31 > 0:19:33and they weren't allowed to leave the village.
0:19:33 > 0:19:37Just because they were higher, upper-class,
0:19:37 > 0:19:40they were considered dangerous to this idea of socialism
0:19:40 > 0:19:44and they were made... Their lives were made impossible.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48Once the baking became homogenised and you had, like, state bread,
0:19:48 > 0:19:51as opposed to different types of bread and cake,
0:19:51 > 0:19:55it must have seemed like you were just ripping up
0:19:55 > 0:19:57and throwing away all those years of knowledge and craft.
0:19:57 > 0:19:59Yes, it was a very difficult time,
0:19:59 > 0:20:02and at first my grandfather worked in the agriculture,
0:20:02 > 0:20:07but soon every evening they made bonbons and little candies
0:20:07 > 0:20:10when the children were asleep.
0:20:10 > 0:20:13So, even then he tried to continue his profession
0:20:13 > 0:20:15because he loved it so much.
0:20:15 > 0:20:17After all these years, all that history,
0:20:17 > 0:20:20all the wars, the coming and going of Communism,
0:20:20 > 0:20:24you're here in Budapest and people can still come
0:20:24 > 0:20:27and enjoy your cakes, have a conversation,
0:20:27 > 0:20:30- and it's fabulous. You've survived! - Fantastic.
0:20:31 > 0:20:34'Kremes and communism might not have got on very well.
0:20:34 > 0:20:38'But, unsurprisingly, the Kremes won out in the end.'
0:20:38 > 0:20:41That's absolutely lovely. What a treat that was.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43- Fabulous, wasn't it? - I'm happy you liked it.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46- Would you like me to show you how we make it?- Oh, yeah!
0:20:47 > 0:20:50Oh, so this is it?!
0:20:50 > 0:20:52Yes, this is where the famous Kremes is made.
0:20:52 > 0:20:56I will give you these aprons, if they're big enough for you.
0:20:56 > 0:20:58It's highly unlikely but...
0:20:58 > 0:21:00Oh, look, very handsome.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04Kremes, I think, is it what we would call a vanilla slice in England?
0:21:04 > 0:21:08Yes, I guess, and this is what we sell most of.
0:21:08 > 0:21:12We sell like 200 or 300 pieces on a Sunday or Saturday.
0:21:12 > 0:21:15And this is the original recipe that your grandfather
0:21:15 > 0:21:18- and your great grandfather... - Yes.- That's what they did.
0:21:18 > 0:21:21- Everything is as it was 140 years ago.- Fantastic.
0:21:21 > 0:21:24And now this is the king of the Kremes now, is this right?
0:21:25 > 0:21:28'With 300 Kremes being sold on a good day,
0:21:28 > 0:21:31you can't begrudge the use of a little mechanisation.'
0:21:31 > 0:21:34Oh, this is puff pastry the easy way.
0:21:34 > 0:21:38'While the pastry bakes, we can find out what's in the magical filling.'
0:21:40 > 0:21:45Flour, egg yolk, sugar, milk.
0:21:45 > 0:21:48And, what is the most important - vanilla.
0:21:48 > 0:21:49That's real vanilla.
0:21:49 > 0:21:51What's this called?
0:21:51 > 0:21:52A vanilla pod.
0:21:52 > 0:21:54Pod?
0:21:54 > 0:21:55A vanilla pod, OK.
0:21:55 > 0:21:57So, first we need milk,
0:21:57 > 0:22:01and while it is cooking we have to mix the egg yolk.
0:22:01 > 0:22:03It's a good custard, isn't it?
0:22:03 > 0:22:04- Yes, lovely. - Proper vanilla custard.
0:22:04 > 0:22:07You cut the vanilla. Put it in the milk, please.
0:22:07 > 0:22:10You're very generous with your vanilla, aren't you?
0:22:10 > 0:22:11Yes. The sugar can go in it.
0:22:13 > 0:22:17You can take the whisk, one of you.
0:22:17 > 0:22:18I knew it! I knew it!
0:22:18 > 0:22:21He's really good at this!
0:22:21 > 0:22:23And I'll help you put the flour in it.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25And I'll just watch the vanilla.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28It's hard work watching vanilla.
0:22:28 > 0:22:30You guys are really professional.
0:22:30 > 0:22:33'20 years ago, ingredients so familiar to us at home
0:22:33 > 0:22:37'would have been pretty hard to find in Communist eastern Europe.
0:22:37 > 0:22:40'Amazing to think just how much has changed.'
0:22:40 > 0:22:44- And then we're going to take it to the...- Oh, to the machine.- Yes.
0:22:44 > 0:22:45You!
0:22:45 > 0:22:48'Well, how else would you whisk egg whites, Kingy?'
0:22:50 > 0:22:52It's a pattern that we just seem to be following,
0:22:52 > 0:22:55- and I have no idea why. - But you're stronger.
0:22:55 > 0:22:57See. I can see the results.
0:22:57 > 0:23:00There's brains and there's brawn.
0:23:00 > 0:23:02And that's why the brawn's using the machine!
0:23:02 > 0:23:05Can't hear you!
0:23:05 > 0:23:06Oh, that's stiff.
0:23:06 > 0:23:08Hot milk into this.
0:23:08 > 0:23:10More milk, more milk.
0:23:10 > 0:23:13'Let's get this custard back on the heat.'
0:23:16 > 0:23:18- He's good, though. - Strong!- Strong!
0:23:18 > 0:23:20I'm not a pack horse!
0:23:20 > 0:23:22Come on, or you'll split!
0:23:22 > 0:23:25Well stop... People are punching us and everything!
0:23:25 > 0:23:27- Enough?- Yeah.
0:23:27 > 0:23:29Very nice.
0:23:29 > 0:23:32- Very nice. It's got a wobble. - It's got a really nice wobble to it.
0:23:32 > 0:23:34That's it, fabulous.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37Look at that, it's like a fat girl on a motorboat.
0:23:37 > 0:23:39Whoom!
0:23:39 > 0:23:41Whoom!
0:23:45 > 0:23:46Oh, that's good.
0:23:46 > 0:23:49Gabor? Gabor, please.
0:23:49 > 0:23:52Go on, Gabor, let me get out of the way here slightly.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54Slip the layers on each other.
0:23:54 > 0:23:56Because it's quite fragile, isn't. it?
0:23:56 > 0:23:58Yes, they break very easily.
0:23:59 > 0:24:01Ho-ho! No pressure!
0:24:04 > 0:24:06And then he will cut it...
0:24:08 > 0:24:10Oh, that's fantastic.
0:24:10 > 0:24:12- Very nice.- Oh, how lovely.
0:24:12 > 0:24:14Oh, wow! Like a professional.
0:24:16 > 0:24:20Well done, dude, you busy man! Well done, well done.
0:24:20 > 0:24:23I can feel another coffee and maybe another little cake coming on.
0:24:23 > 0:24:27Dude, I'm following you upstairs, come on.
0:24:28 > 0:24:30And I know what cake I'm having!
0:24:30 > 0:24:35Get your order in quick, Kingy, these Kremes don't hang about.
0:24:35 > 0:24:36Much like us, dude.
0:24:37 > 0:24:41Hungarians are clearly very proud of their baking heritage.
0:24:41 > 0:24:45And they've had to work harder than most to hang onto it.
0:24:45 > 0:24:49Well, Si, I for one will sleep very well tonight knowing that they did.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04Next morning we head out of Budapest.
0:25:04 > 0:25:08It would be unfair to judge a country's baking prowess by its capital alone.
0:25:08 > 0:25:10So, we're off for a slice of country life.
0:25:10 > 0:25:12We're heading for Holloko,
0:25:12 > 0:25:15apparently a perfectly preserved Hungarian village.
0:25:15 > 0:25:19So perfect, it's now a World Heritage Site.
0:25:21 > 0:25:23But it's a long way to ride in one go!
0:25:23 > 0:25:26So what do you say, mate, we break the journey?
0:25:26 > 0:25:30Good plan, mate. As long as there's something to eat when we stop.
0:25:30 > 0:25:31Oh, there will be!
0:25:31 > 0:25:35At home you'd perhaps get a bacon buttie and a mug of tea at the side of the road.
0:25:35 > 0:25:38But here, they do things a little differently.
0:25:44 > 0:25:46Yes! Langos. Do you know what?
0:25:46 > 0:25:49I've never had this since I was in Romania.
0:25:49 > 0:25:51Now we know we are in eastern Europe.
0:25:51 > 0:25:54- Yes!- Bet they're not as good as me mother-in-law's, though.
0:25:57 > 0:25:59THEY CHUCKLE
0:26:00 > 0:26:02- Hello!- Hello.- Hello.
0:26:02 > 0:26:05Do you remember how to order langos?
0:26:05 > 0:26:06- I do.- Go on then.
0:26:06 > 0:26:08Langosi - two?
0:26:09 > 0:26:10What's next?
0:26:12 > 0:26:14Cheese.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16- And then...- Oh, and garlic.
0:26:16 > 0:26:17- Garlic.- OK.
0:26:17 > 0:26:19THEY LAUGH
0:26:19 > 0:26:22Sour cream sprinkled with cheese and some garlic. Do you see that?
0:26:22 > 0:26:24We're fluent. That's what we are!
0:26:24 > 0:26:27For those of you who have never had a langos before,
0:26:27 > 0:26:30it's a cross between a giant pancake, a giant doughnut.
0:26:30 > 0:26:34It's unique in the world to eastern Europe, but by God it's good.
0:26:34 > 0:26:35It is the best.
0:26:35 > 0:26:40But it's so far away from that fine patisserie that we had in Budapest.
0:26:40 > 0:26:44But in its own way, it's equally as valid and fabulous.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46It's part of a culture of food.
0:26:46 > 0:26:51Lil makes these at home, you know. It's interesting, a lot of food has migrated to Romania from Hungary.
0:26:51 > 0:26:55Although a lot of the Romanians would say it's the other way round, but it's not really.
0:26:55 > 0:26:57She'll do them with salad cream.
0:26:57 > 0:27:00- But they put a lot of dill in them in Romania.- Oh yes.
0:27:00 > 0:27:01It has that taste. Sometimes I go home.
0:27:01 > 0:27:04"Just something light, love," and there'll be this plate of langos.
0:27:04 > 0:27:08- Lovely.- And it's a really good home bake.
0:27:08 > 0:27:10Oh yes!
0:27:10 > 0:27:13Now there is an art in eating a langos.
0:27:13 > 0:27:17I've just watched two gentlemen. One of those gentlemen halved it.
0:27:17 > 0:27:19Halved it.
0:27:19 > 0:27:22Like so. The other one rolled it.
0:27:24 > 0:27:25Like so.
0:27:27 > 0:27:31I don't care what you do with it, as long as it goes in your gob.
0:27:41 > 0:27:44If you're on Weight Watchers, don't eat one of these.
0:27:44 > 0:27:47Every day's a red day with a langos.
0:27:47 > 0:27:48Mm!
0:27:50 > 0:27:53'Oh Kingy, these are such a taste of Eastern Europe,
0:27:53 > 0:27:57'they really make me homesick for my wife's wonderful cooking.'
0:27:58 > 0:28:01Hello, love. Yeah, we've got the first whiff of Romania.
0:28:01 > 0:28:05- We've stopped at the first langos stall we saw.- Oh!
0:28:05 > 0:28:07It was good. They're different to the Romanian ones.
0:28:07 > 0:28:10They're round, they're round like pizzas.
0:28:10 > 0:28:15First at the top, it was raw garlic, then they used sour cream,
0:28:15 > 0:28:17and then a sprinkling of grated cheese on the top.
0:28:17 > 0:28:21They're different to the Romanians. Kingy said they're better than the Romanian ones, love.
0:28:21 > 0:28:23I didn't Lil, I didn't!
0:28:25 > 0:28:26Yeah. Well, see you soon.
0:28:26 > 0:28:30Anyway, they're not as good as your mother's. Anyway, love you. Bye!
0:28:32 > 0:28:36'Well, those langos should see us through till tea time, dude.'
0:28:36 > 0:28:38'Yeah. Tea time next week!'
0:28:43 > 0:28:47We're heading deep into the Hungarian countryside,
0:28:47 > 0:28:49to the village of Holloko.
0:28:49 > 0:28:53As it's a World Heritage site, we thought it might be worth a look.
0:28:53 > 0:28:56Ah, the perfect venue for our next bake.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03Crackling scones, or Pogacsa, as they're known here,
0:29:03 > 0:29:06are a popular savoury scone eaten all over Hungary.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12They are fantastic!
0:29:12 > 0:29:14People often say on our programmes
0:29:14 > 0:29:19you get the blokes who'll sit there going "I don't like the cooking, but I watch it for the bikes."
0:29:19 > 0:29:22Now, those blokes will sit there going,
0:29:22 > 0:29:25"I know. But could you make that for me, love?"
0:29:25 > 0:29:28"Would you mind, pet? I like the sound of them."
0:29:28 > 0:29:32Now, here we are in beautiful Hun-gar-y, and...
0:29:32 > 0:29:34we're in the middle of nowhere, basically.
0:29:34 > 0:29:38This is true, truly, truly rural Hungary.
0:29:38 > 0:29:41There's some beautiful Hungarian bakers there to keep us company.
0:29:41 > 0:29:42Yeah. There's the beautiful ladies here.
0:29:42 > 0:29:45- Hello, ladies.- Hello.- Hello.
0:29:45 > 0:29:46Hello. Aren't they lovely?
0:29:46 > 0:29:50And this is great because this is a communal oven for the village,
0:29:50 > 0:29:53which is another focal point of the village, as the church is,
0:29:53 > 0:29:56as the community centre is the cafe is - everybody comes here.
0:29:56 > 0:29:59So the whole infrastructure of this rural idyll
0:29:59 > 0:30:03is based around food, worship and drinking coffee.
0:30:03 > 0:30:05What more could you want?
0:30:05 > 0:30:08- Smashing. Thank you. - What are you doing now?
0:30:08 > 0:30:11- What?- What are you doing now? - I'm going to get the crackling scones started.- Go on then.
0:30:11 > 0:30:14- It just sounds appetising, doesn't it?- It does.
0:30:14 > 0:30:16Put some milk in a pan blood warm.
0:30:16 > 0:30:18I think I'm just about there.
0:30:18 > 0:30:19That'll do you.
0:30:21 > 0:30:22Clean hands.
0:30:22 > 0:30:26Ow! That's hot. Right. Now remember, when you're making bread or leavening yeast,
0:30:26 > 0:30:30if the liquid is too hot, you will kill the yeast.
0:30:30 > 0:30:34Go and run round a bit. Go on! Run round until it cools off.
0:30:34 > 0:30:37See this here. Look at that. Bacon, streaky. Beautiful.
0:30:37 > 0:30:39It's too hot!
0:30:39 > 0:30:41So... The ladies.
0:30:41 > 0:30:44Look, the ladies watching him run round. See.
0:30:44 > 0:30:49To the lukewarm tepid milk, add a sachet of dried yeast.
0:30:49 > 0:30:53While we wait for that to come to life, I'm going to finely chop what in essence is streaky bacon.
0:30:53 > 0:30:58What's interesting about Hungarian cuisine as a whole, actually,
0:30:58 > 0:31:02it's very homemade, it's very wholesome and it's very hearty.
0:31:04 > 0:31:08You want them crispy, and you want all the fat to leach out.
0:31:08 > 0:31:13That's what we're after. There's nothing better than the smell of bacon, is there?
0:31:13 > 0:31:17Right. The dry goods. Take a bowl of flour.
0:31:17 > 0:31:21To the flour, add half a teaspoon of salt.
0:31:21 > 0:31:22Now go careful with your salt,
0:31:22 > 0:31:26because we've got some cheese in this and we've also got salty bacon.
0:31:26 > 0:31:29They're a scone, and we want them to rise up and have that lovely split in the middle.
0:31:29 > 0:31:34We know it's leavened with yeast, but we're going to put a cheeky teaspoon full of baking powder
0:31:34 > 0:31:38in there, just to make sure that it achieves kind of levitation.
0:31:38 > 0:31:40Now this is a Hairy Bikers' cheeky creation.
0:31:40 > 0:31:43We've got two tablespoons full of parmesan cheese to go in there.
0:31:43 > 0:31:46You could use a local hard goat's cheese,
0:31:46 > 0:31:50but by God cheese, bacon - oh, yum.
0:31:50 > 0:31:52And a tablespoon of caraway seeds.
0:31:52 > 0:31:56Very local, very yummy, and very special.
0:31:56 > 0:31:58That's what you want. That's the colour on it.
0:31:58 > 0:32:02It's gone all crispy. We're just going to leave that to cool now.
0:32:02 > 0:32:06Now with clean hands, just mix the dry goods carefully together.
0:32:06 > 0:32:09'I can't wait to see what the ladies are busy cooking up.'
0:32:09 > 0:32:12'Well, they're first in line for the oven, so we'll find out soon.'
0:32:12 > 0:32:15'But, in the meantime, I'll get busy melting this butter.
0:32:16 > 0:32:21'When it's liquefied, bung in some sour cream and give it a good mix.
0:32:21 > 0:32:25'Si, have you seen what they've made? Delicious-looking cottage cheese pies.'
0:32:25 > 0:32:29'I hope they offer us a nibble when they're baked!'
0:32:31 > 0:32:35Now to the butter and the sour cream, we add two beaten eggs.
0:32:35 > 0:32:39And as I say, make sure that it's not too hot,
0:32:39 > 0:32:41or else you're going to scramble your eggs.
0:32:41 > 0:32:43That's fab.
0:32:43 > 0:32:47The yeast has really started to work in the milk.
0:32:47 > 0:32:51We add the yeasty milk to the butter, sour cream and egg mixture.
0:32:53 > 0:32:56- Captain Muscles!- Oh, not again!
0:32:56 > 0:32:59Take the dry goods, place them in front of your friend.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02And whilst he grafts his nuts off,
0:33:02 > 0:33:05I'll dribble the liquid into that to make a dough.
0:33:05 > 0:33:09Now at some point, you want to feel this mixture, so you're going to have to get your hands in it
0:33:09 > 0:33:11and dispense with the spoon.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15I love this bit.
0:33:15 > 0:33:16I'm glad you do.
0:33:16 > 0:33:18It's great when you get involved.
0:33:18 > 0:33:21Right. A nice clean bowl there.
0:33:21 > 0:33:23- Nice. Nice dough, that. - It's beautiful.
0:33:23 > 0:33:26And that's what you do, just knead it so you can...
0:33:26 > 0:33:29It doesn't need long, it's just five minutes, you know.
0:33:29 > 0:33:34'A quick knead is all this requires. We don't want it to be like a bread roll, after all.'
0:33:34 > 0:33:36That's it dude, look at that! Lovely, that, man.
0:33:36 > 0:33:39That, my friend, is cracking dough for a crackling scone.
0:33:41 > 0:33:44Now just put this somewhere in a draught-free environment,
0:33:44 > 0:33:47for about an hour and a half until it's doubled in size.
0:33:47 > 0:33:49I tell you what, though.
0:33:49 > 0:33:51- Wow!- Follow those ladies.
0:33:51 > 0:33:53Oh, ladies!
0:33:53 > 0:33:55- Thank you.- Thank you.
0:33:57 > 0:34:00- Oh dude, oh, it's warm. - Straight from the oven.
0:34:00 > 0:34:02Nice!
0:34:04 > 0:34:06Beautiful!
0:34:06 > 0:34:08- Ladies, thank you so very much. - Thank you. It's lovely.
0:34:13 > 0:34:16You see mega, it's everywhere!
0:34:16 > 0:34:21THEY SING IN HUNGARIAN
0:34:23 > 0:34:27'Well, it would be nice to have something to go with those scones when they're ready.'
0:34:27 > 0:34:30'How about a classic Hungarian goulash soup,
0:34:30 > 0:34:34'originally cooked by stockmen out on the Great Plains.'
0:34:34 > 0:34:35- Yes!- Goulash soup!
0:34:35 > 0:34:38You cannae come to Hungary without making goulash soup,
0:34:38 > 0:34:40and the assorted paprikas that go in it, can you?
0:34:40 > 0:34:44Yeah. Paprika is playful, passionate and perfect.
0:34:44 > 0:34:48'First up, let's brown some seasoned and floured beef,
0:34:48 > 0:34:50'before we get out our secret weapon.'
0:34:50 > 0:34:53The goulash gun!
0:34:55 > 0:34:56- Lovely.- Goulash gun.
0:34:56 > 0:35:01- This'll be a laugh. - Set the tripod up over the fire.
0:35:02 > 0:35:06'Like most peasant dishes, goulash was always cooked outside.
0:35:06 > 0:35:10'Now, the gas burner's not that authentic, but the goulash gun certainly is.'
0:35:10 > 0:35:14'King, this cooking apparatus is actually called a bograc.'
0:35:14 > 0:35:17'A bograc? Oh man, let's stick to goulash gun, shall we?'
0:35:17 > 0:35:19Next...what a stupid idea this is!
0:35:19 > 0:35:22- Over here.- I told you we should have put it on the floor!
0:35:22 > 0:35:24Now, to start the goulash,
0:35:24 > 0:35:27we have to get the vegetables in and sweating for ten minutes.
0:35:27 > 0:35:31'As for the vegetables, you can pretty much use what you like.
0:35:31 > 0:35:33'But a bit of garlic always hits the spot.'
0:35:33 > 0:35:36Well, that's well and truly risen.
0:35:36 > 0:35:40'I thought I'd give Kingy a bit of a rest from the manual work.
0:35:41 > 0:35:46'And with him on veg duties, I'm going to knead in the bacon bits.
0:35:46 > 0:35:47'We're out in the sticks now, mate,
0:35:47 > 0:35:53'and this sort of hearty rustic cooking is what Hungarian food is really all about.'
0:35:53 > 0:35:58'These particular scones often appear in Hungarian fables and folk stories,
0:35:58 > 0:36:01'in the backpack of a young man setting off on his adventures.'
0:36:01 > 0:36:03'Isn't that what we're doing, mate?'
0:36:03 > 0:36:06'We're not that young, Si! After our scones are cut out,
0:36:06 > 0:36:09'we leave them to rise for half an hour.'
0:36:09 > 0:36:12'But don't forget to score them, like on that picture in the bread museum.'
0:36:12 > 0:36:16Right. Goulash soup. Let's crack on with that.
0:36:16 > 0:36:20'There are many optional elements to a goulash,
0:36:20 > 0:36:22'but paprika isn't one of them.'
0:36:22 > 0:36:24'So let's be generous with it.'
0:36:24 > 0:36:27'Paprika is a ground dried chilli pepper,
0:36:27 > 0:36:30'that was introduced to Hungary by invading Turks in the 16th Century.'
0:36:30 > 0:36:33'The spice now defines Hungarian cooking.
0:36:33 > 0:36:37'You can buy hot, sweet or smoked varieties.
0:36:37 > 0:36:39'For this dish, we're keeping it sweet.'
0:36:39 > 0:36:43I've got a couple of tablespoons of caraway seeds. I'm just going to give them a bash.
0:36:43 > 0:36:46Pretty soon the whole neighbourhood are going to know we've got a goulash on.
0:36:46 > 0:36:48Yes, aren't they?
0:36:48 > 0:36:51- About three bay leaves? - Yeah, perfect.
0:36:51 > 0:36:56'In with a blob of tomato paste, and at last, those lovely chunks of beef.'
0:36:56 > 0:36:59'It's what the Hungarian cowboys would have used.'
0:36:59 > 0:37:02'But this is a pretty relaxed recipe, so go with what you fancy.'
0:37:02 > 0:37:07If you have really good beef stock for this, your goulash is going to be sensational.
0:37:09 > 0:37:11Beefy bits.
0:37:11 > 0:37:13Oh! Oh ho ho ho!
0:37:13 > 0:37:14Et voila!
0:37:17 > 0:37:20'A little eggy wash will give these a golden brown glaze.'
0:37:22 > 0:37:25Now, let's go to battle with a wood-fired oven.
0:37:25 > 0:37:29'We had some practice baking in a wood-fired oven back in Germany.'
0:37:29 > 0:37:34'Practice doesn't make perfect, Kingy. No two wood-fired ovens are the same.'
0:37:34 > 0:37:37'Fingers crossed this one will be kind to us, then.
0:37:38 > 0:37:42'Now, it's time to bulk out our goulash with some spuds.'
0:37:42 > 0:37:46Now I reckon, let that simmer for about 20 minutes,
0:37:46 > 0:37:49and we're going to have a big cauldron
0:37:49 > 0:37:53of the best beef goulash soup you've ever had,
0:37:53 > 0:37:56- and the scones will just be cool enough to eat.- Fabulous.
0:37:58 > 0:38:02Ah! The wood-fired oven has been exceptionally kind to us.
0:38:02 > 0:38:04When we think scones, we think cream teas.
0:38:04 > 0:38:08But to Hungarians, they're savoury sustenance food,
0:38:08 > 0:38:11fit for the backpack of any intrepid adventurer.
0:38:11 > 0:38:14And with a dollop of sour cream added to our goulash,
0:38:14 > 0:38:15we're ready to tuck in.
0:38:17 > 0:38:21Oh, look at them. The scones. Look, it's split down the middle.
0:38:21 > 0:38:24Oh! Now that's the sign of a good scone.
0:38:24 > 0:38:27And that goes on. Oh! Look at that eh?
0:38:27 > 0:38:31Now this is proper Hungarian cuisine, rich and hearty and lovely.
0:38:31 > 0:38:33Goulash soup, eh?
0:38:33 > 0:38:38- If you don't make these at home, you're nuts.- Yeah.- They're fabulous!
0:38:40 > 0:38:43Do you know, all that's missing is a nice glass of wine,
0:38:43 > 0:38:46and I think that's on the agenda for tomorrow.
0:39:08 > 0:39:12When Lil and I drive to Romania, it's motorways most of the way.
0:39:12 > 0:39:15But back road Hungary has really opened up a new side to this country.
0:39:17 > 0:39:21It might be slow going, but it gives you time to soak up the scenery.
0:39:21 > 0:39:25But the adventure's not over yet, mate. We've got some wine to find.
0:39:25 > 0:39:27Kingy, time for another pit stop.
0:39:32 > 0:39:34Oh, thank you.
0:39:34 > 0:39:36Oh thank you. Thank you very much.
0:39:37 > 0:39:40Everybody says in Hungary, the best wine is in the Tokaj region.
0:39:40 > 0:39:42Tokaj is there.
0:39:42 > 0:39:45So Si, I reckon we should stay somewhere around Tokaj,
0:39:45 > 0:39:47because we can't buy wine without tasting it first,
0:39:47 > 0:39:49and we're not going to make the border today.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52- Let's stay somewhere there, then. - Look.- Where?
0:39:52 > 0:39:54A town called Mad.
0:39:54 > 0:39:55Oh, let's stay there, man.
0:39:55 > 0:39:58- A night of madness in Mad. I'm mad for it.- Yeah.
0:40:07 > 0:40:11Another couple of hours and we find ourselves in wine country.
0:40:11 > 0:40:15To the north, we've the fringes of the Carpathian Mountains
0:40:15 > 0:40:20and to the south, the vast open Great Plains of Hungary.
0:40:20 > 0:40:23This has given the Tokaj region a unique geology
0:40:23 > 0:40:25and the perfect climate for growing grapes.
0:40:25 > 0:40:28Something they've been doing here for over 1,000 years.
0:40:33 > 0:40:35Oh wow!
0:40:37 > 0:40:40Here, Dave, did you see those beautifully fine vineyards?
0:40:40 > 0:40:41We found Mad.
0:40:41 > 0:40:45We've found a lovely hotel, we just need to find some wine now.
0:40:47 > 0:40:50And for that, we're going to need some help.
0:40:50 > 0:40:53The locals told us Endre Demeter is the man to see.
0:40:53 > 0:40:56He's part of Tokaj's new generation of winemakers.
0:40:56 > 0:40:58Crikey, dude, this is a bit swish.
0:40:58 > 0:41:03Yesterday, we were cramming deep-fried langos in a lay-by!
0:41:03 > 0:41:06Before we came out to the village somebody was saying to us,
0:41:06 > 0:41:08at the time of Louis XIV,
0:41:08 > 0:41:10he actually preferred Tokaj wine to French wine.
0:41:10 > 0:41:13And also, there was a type of wine then that was actually more
0:41:13 > 0:41:15expensive than gold.
0:41:15 > 0:41:17Yes. It's a very special wine we make,
0:41:17 > 0:41:21which is not produced anywhere else in the world, the Aszu.
0:41:21 > 0:41:23And it's a speciality.
0:41:23 > 0:41:28And tsars and kings and all the noble people
0:41:28 > 0:41:31just loved it in the Middle Ages, and later also.
0:41:31 > 0:41:34That's a privilege. I thought we were coming to taste some wine,
0:41:34 > 0:41:36and it's turned into something a bit special.
0:41:36 > 0:41:39It's not your fault, because during the Communism, for 50 years,
0:41:39 > 0:41:41we were forgotten.
0:41:41 > 0:41:45So in the last 20 years we've started to rebuild our reputation.
0:41:45 > 0:41:49I think I'm beginning to realise now how special Tokaj wine is,
0:41:49 > 0:41:51- and I didn't before.- No. Absolutely.
0:41:51 > 0:41:53- And I'm dying to taste some. - Oh, wow!
0:41:58 > 0:42:02It's quite sweet but it's got a really dry finish, hasn't it?
0:42:02 > 0:42:04Mm. That's remarkable.
0:42:04 > 0:42:07Like baking, top quality winemaking is an art
0:42:07 > 0:42:11that really needs the loving touch of a craftsman.
0:42:11 > 0:42:15And just like the bland uniformity of Communist bread,
0:42:15 > 0:42:17the Soviet style regime literally crushed the life
0:42:17 > 0:42:18out of Tokaj's grapes.
0:42:18 > 0:42:21But now, the old traditions are flourishing again,
0:42:21 > 0:42:24and Tokaj wines are well and truly back on the map.
0:42:24 > 0:42:26Cheers to that!
0:42:26 > 0:42:29Do you know, I've felt every kilometre on my backside
0:42:29 > 0:42:34on that bike to come here, and it's been worth every lump in the road.
0:42:34 > 0:42:37- Yeah.- To Tokaj.- To your good health. - To Tokaj. Cheers.
0:42:39 > 0:42:41- That's classy, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:42:41 > 0:42:45Ah, trying before buying has its upsides, Kingy.
0:42:45 > 0:42:49And I'm sure Endre can find one or two more for us to sample.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51Oh! The things we do for our art!
0:43:01 > 0:43:04This morning we finally strike out for Romania.
0:43:04 > 0:43:08This isn't a land of fancy cakes and fine wines though, is it, dude?
0:43:08 > 0:43:11No. Romanians cherish their down-to-earth country fare.
0:43:11 > 0:43:14It's just the kind of food that we love, too.
0:43:14 > 0:43:17And the kind of food my wife Lili loves to cook,
0:43:17 > 0:43:18and I can't wait to see her.
0:43:18 > 0:43:20Not that long now, mate.
0:43:23 > 0:43:25We're heading for Sighet,
0:43:25 > 0:43:30Lil's home town in the remote region of Maramures in northern Romania.
0:43:30 > 0:43:33But first things first, we've got a border to cross.
0:43:34 > 0:43:36Passports at the ready!
0:43:36 > 0:43:38So far we've breezed through national borders
0:43:38 > 0:43:40like they were hardly there.
0:43:40 > 0:43:43But Romania's new to this EU game.
0:43:43 > 0:43:46Hello!
0:43:57 > 0:44:01- Hey, hey, we're in! - And there's Lil waiting for us!
0:44:03 > 0:44:05Hey! Welcome to Romania!
0:44:05 > 0:44:08- Oh, oh!- Yes!- Sweetheart! - Yes.- Yes
0:44:08 > 0:44:11Oh, I've dropped my glasses and everything.
0:44:11 > 0:44:15- Go see my friend! - Hello! Hello, big man!
0:44:15 > 0:44:18- How are you?- Hello, big man. Just turn around, just like that.
0:44:18 > 0:44:19Like that. Fantastic.
0:44:19 > 0:44:21- Viva Romania.- Viva Romania!
0:44:21 > 0:44:24It's lovely to see you, darling.
0:44:26 > 0:44:28Hey, dude, I didn't know where to look!
0:44:28 > 0:44:29Well, don't look at your SatNav,
0:44:29 > 0:44:32we're heading where most roads aren't even mapped.
0:44:33 > 0:44:35Well, let Lil take the lead on that then.
0:44:38 > 0:44:40Maramures is surrounded by mountains.
0:44:40 > 0:44:45It's so isolated it's kept many of its centuries-old traditions.
0:44:46 > 0:44:49It's what drew us here several years ago, when we were first on TV.
0:44:49 > 0:44:53I'm so excited about being back, I barely notice the potholes!
0:44:53 > 0:44:55Yeah. Speak for yourself!
0:45:01 > 0:45:04Dave, we're here, mate. Sighet!
0:45:04 > 0:45:06This is where Lili and I first met.
0:45:06 > 0:45:08Do you know what? It only seems like yesterday.
0:45:08 > 0:45:10And there's the hotel where Lil used to work.
0:45:10 > 0:45:12That's where we fell in love!
0:45:12 > 0:45:15- Bleugh!- Oh, don't be like that!
0:45:15 > 0:45:19After a rest, Lil's taking us to a bakery she's known since childhood.
0:45:25 > 0:45:29Oh! Ah! So is this it, Lil?
0:45:29 > 0:45:31- Yeah.- The bakery you used to go to? - Yes.
0:45:31 > 0:45:34This is a small bakery that I used to come to,
0:45:34 > 0:45:36and my children used to come to as well.
0:45:36 > 0:45:40And this bakery serves the whole community around,
0:45:40 > 0:45:42and this is very, very important
0:45:42 > 0:45:47because, everybody around has got fresh bread.
0:45:47 > 0:45:50It's evening now and the shop is shut,
0:45:50 > 0:45:53but like all good bakers, they're busy making the next batch
0:45:53 > 0:45:55of fresh bread for tomorrow's customers.
0:45:55 > 0:45:58And the bakery's owner, Monica, clearly loves her job,
0:45:58 > 0:46:00whatever the time of day.
0:46:00 > 0:46:03- Monica!- Hi, I'm Simon.
0:46:03 > 0:46:06We've been to some really fancy bakeries around the world,
0:46:06 > 0:46:08but this is the reality of baking.
0:46:08 > 0:46:11The local bakers. It's not magic.
0:46:11 > 0:46:14People work hard all night to make your daily bread.
0:46:14 > 0:46:17Is bread the main thing from this bakery?
0:46:17 > 0:46:21LILI ASKS IN ROMANIAN
0:46:21 > 0:46:22Da.
0:46:22 > 0:46:26SHE SPEAKS IN ROMANIAN
0:46:26 > 0:46:28Bread is the main thing that they bake,
0:46:28 > 0:46:34but they also bake produce for schools and high schools.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37Why does she feel it's so important to service her community with bread?
0:46:37 > 0:46:40SHE SPEAKS IN ROMANIAN
0:46:40 > 0:46:46They love the idea of the neighbourhood and the high schools having fresh produce.
0:46:46 > 0:46:48It's very important for them to have this
0:46:48 > 0:46:51and not have something that's packed,
0:46:51 > 0:46:54and has been in the package for days.
0:46:54 > 0:46:58That's what they want for their children, to have fresh, healthy products.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01SHE SPEAKS IN ROMANIAN
0:47:01 > 0:47:04- Because there's love in it.- Yeah?
0:47:04 > 0:47:06That's exactly what she said.
0:47:06 > 0:47:09- We'd better help before we get chucked out.- You might be right!
0:47:09 > 0:47:11- Yeah?- Monica, set us to work.
0:47:11 > 0:47:12Monica, slaves for a day.
0:47:12 > 0:47:15Time and time again on our travels
0:47:15 > 0:47:20we've seen the same four ingredients flour, water, yeast and salt
0:47:20 > 0:47:21combined into a dough.
0:47:21 > 0:47:23But in skilled hands,
0:47:23 > 0:47:28that dough can become a dozen different types of bread.
0:47:28 > 0:47:30And you can't deny they have a lot of fun making them.
0:47:33 > 0:47:36- What's happened, dude?- Acuma! - Octopus.
0:47:40 > 0:47:44I've a feeling, Kingy, that we won't be going home until we get it right.
0:47:44 > 0:47:46Well, it was you that offered us as slaves.
0:47:46 > 0:47:49I know! And I still need my beauty sleep
0:47:49 > 0:47:51for our big family shindig tomorrow.
0:47:59 > 0:48:03It's a religious festival today, and everybody is off to church.
0:48:03 > 0:48:05Well, almost everybody.
0:48:08 > 0:48:10Kingy, it's the party tonight!
0:48:10 > 0:48:14Lil's off to her uncle's to get things ready.
0:48:14 > 0:48:18And we need to slip off for some party preparations of our own.
0:48:18 > 0:48:20Sighet is surrounded by forest.
0:48:20 > 0:48:24So unsurprisingly, many of the houses here are built out of wood.
0:48:27 > 0:48:31As it's a public holiday today, nobody is working.
0:48:31 > 0:48:34And where this traditional wood carver's yard is normally
0:48:34 > 0:48:35a hive of activity...
0:48:35 > 0:48:37today it'll make a clandestine kitchen
0:48:37 > 0:48:41- for us to bake our surprise party offering.- Oh!
0:48:43 > 0:48:46- Oh it's lovely, that.- Ha-hey!- Oh.
0:48:46 > 0:48:50It's not only the gates in Maramures that are huge.
0:48:50 > 0:48:52Good grief, I thought I'd shrunk.
0:48:52 > 0:48:54COCK CROWS
0:48:54 > 0:48:57That cockerel's late, isn't it?
0:48:57 > 0:48:59We're going to cook a curly pie, the pie that is...
0:48:59 > 0:49:01Curly.
0:49:03 > 0:49:05Like a lot of Romanian cooking,
0:49:05 > 0:49:07the curly pie is simple, unpretentious, wholesome food.
0:49:07 > 0:49:09It's perfect party fare.
0:49:09 > 0:49:11COCK CROWS
0:49:11 > 0:49:16- Shut up!- He's a belter, isn't he, that rooster?
0:49:16 > 0:49:18Crack on with the dough, dude.
0:49:18 > 0:49:22First off, sparkling mineral water.
0:49:22 > 0:49:26The sparkles work a bit like baking powder, giving the dough a lighter texture.
0:49:26 > 0:49:31Two tablespoons of oil. The oil gives you the stretch.
0:49:31 > 0:49:33Now to the oil and water, add some salt.
0:49:33 > 0:49:35Most people think about Romania
0:49:35 > 0:49:39and think about Transylvania, the Carpathian Mountains.
0:49:39 > 0:49:43But to me Maramures is where that kind of romance and folklore
0:49:43 > 0:49:45is really still alive.
0:49:45 > 0:49:48And it's like the last outpost against, I don't know,
0:49:48 > 0:49:51Eastern Europe being eroded by a lot of western rubbish.
0:49:51 > 0:49:53It is Dave, you're right.
0:49:53 > 0:49:56It's about the character of this county and I love it.
0:49:56 > 0:49:59It's quite eccentric, isn't it? As eccentric as a curly pie, really.
0:49:59 > 0:50:03And, as I add flour to the water, it will begin life as a batter.
0:50:03 > 0:50:07But with the wonder that is baking, it will become a dough.
0:50:07 > 0:50:12# A deer, a female deer Ray, a drop of golden sun! #
0:50:13 > 0:50:17And this dough needs kneading, because then you release
0:50:17 > 0:50:20the gluten in the flour, which makes the pastry
0:50:20 > 0:50:25really stretchy, like samosa pastry, so we can roll it really thin.
0:50:25 > 0:50:29And believe me, we need this thin. Woah! Over to you, Tarzan!
0:50:29 > 0:50:32Oh. It's nice, actually. And just knead away,
0:50:32 > 0:50:34single hand or double handed method,
0:50:34 > 0:50:38whichever way you fancy, depending how big your balls are. Of dough!
0:50:43 > 0:50:46- Look at that, eh?- Imagine the damage your wife could do with that!
0:50:46 > 0:50:49I know. Well, the Maramures woman is a strong species.
0:50:49 > 0:50:52- You married one. - I know, it's great.
0:50:52 > 0:50:55Right, now roll this out, as thin as you can get it.
0:50:55 > 0:50:57You want it thin enough to read a newspaper through.
0:50:57 > 0:50:59Thinner than Kate Moss on a fast.
0:50:59 > 0:51:01Bob's your uncle. It's magic!
0:51:01 > 0:51:04Now for this bit, you can use whatever round template of choice.
0:51:04 > 0:51:09Now the traditional filling for this is sheep's cheese and spring onion.
0:51:09 > 0:51:13It's like a lot of eastern European foods,
0:51:13 > 0:51:16actually the recipes and the contents are quite frugal.
0:51:16 > 0:51:18Traditionally, some sheep's cheese
0:51:18 > 0:51:22wrapped in a sheep's bladder.
0:51:22 > 0:51:25- You don't get cheese like that at home do you?- No.
0:51:25 > 0:51:27But there are plenty of substitutes.
0:51:27 > 0:51:29A good old Greek feta will do the trick.
0:51:29 > 0:51:31That's crumbly.
0:51:31 > 0:51:33Oh, that's fabulous.
0:51:33 > 0:51:36You sprinkle it onto the pie.
0:51:36 > 0:51:40Some of these fabulous fresh spring onions.
0:51:40 > 0:51:42Now, it's time to put the curl in your pie.
0:51:42 > 0:51:45It's dead easy. Just take one side over like that,
0:51:45 > 0:51:48and see use that perimeter of your template.
0:51:48 > 0:51:52Transfer your curly pie to the dish, like so.
0:51:52 > 0:51:56- Oh, lush.- Now you top this off with a mixture of eggs and yoghurt.
0:51:59 > 0:52:01And you just splodge this on.
0:52:01 > 0:52:04When we say splodge, we mean splodge.
0:52:04 > 0:52:07- Are you a bit of a splodger, Kingy? - Oh, aye.
0:52:07 > 0:52:10A splodge between friends, there's nothing the matter with that!
0:52:10 > 0:52:12Mm. Pop this into a pre-heated oven,
0:52:12 > 0:52:14about 180, 200 degrees Celsius,
0:52:14 > 0:52:17for about half an hour until golden brown.
0:52:17 > 0:52:20While you're doing that, I'll crack on with a variety of fillings.
0:52:22 > 0:52:23Now, if you don't fancy going rustic,
0:52:23 > 0:52:27go and knock yourself out at your local deli.
0:52:27 > 0:52:30Fancy charcuterie, fine cheeses and exotic mushrooms
0:52:30 > 0:52:31can all be used here.
0:52:31 > 0:52:34The world is your oyster when it comes to curly pie.
0:52:36 > 0:52:39But even though we're using such fancy ingredients,
0:52:39 > 0:52:42it's still a good frugal dish.
0:52:42 > 0:52:45Because when it comes to filling a curly pie, a little goes a long way.
0:52:48 > 0:52:50We've baked plenty of pies for the big bash.
0:52:50 > 0:52:52But we'll leave some for the woodcarvers,
0:52:52 > 0:52:54I'm sure they'll appreciate it.
0:52:56 > 0:52:59This wonderful curly pie exterior doesn't give up the secret
0:52:59 > 0:53:02of its tasty filling, until you sink your teeth into it.
0:53:02 > 0:53:05But there'll be no sinking of teeth into these beauties,
0:53:05 > 0:53:07till we get to the party.
0:53:10 > 0:53:12Lil and all the family will be expecting us soon,
0:53:12 > 0:53:15so we'd better get our skates on.
0:53:25 > 0:53:27Hello! Hello!
0:53:31 > 0:53:34- Hello. - Oh, it's great to be back!
0:53:34 > 0:53:36I'm kissing all these blokes, you know,
0:53:36 > 0:53:39and I've got no idea who they are yet!
0:53:39 > 0:53:42- Vassily!- Well, this is Lil's Dad, Vassily.
0:53:44 > 0:53:46And these are our hosts
0:53:46 > 0:53:48Lil's Aunt Henyetta.
0:53:48 > 0:53:50And Uncle Ilya.
0:53:50 > 0:53:53We're now in the bosom of your Romanian family.
0:53:53 > 0:53:55And we're sure of a good party and some good food.
0:53:55 > 0:53:57Right. Wa-hey!
0:54:00 > 0:54:02I can't believe we've finally arrived.
0:54:02 > 0:54:06Yeah. And we've crossed a few borders to get here.
0:54:06 > 0:54:10And just a stone's throw from here is the Ukrainian border, the edge of the EU.
0:54:13 > 0:54:16In the garden, the party preparations are in full flow.
0:54:18 > 0:54:21Ilya's got the wood fired oven up to temperature.
0:54:21 > 0:54:24While Lil's mum Veronica and Aunty Henyetta
0:54:24 > 0:54:27are busy baking away some of tonight's treats.
0:54:28 > 0:54:32Cozonac is a sweet bread very similar to the Italian panettone.
0:54:32 > 0:54:35It's a rich dough made with eggs and butter.
0:54:35 > 0:54:39But the fillings vary from one region and occasion to the next.
0:54:39 > 0:54:42And Turkish Delight is a Romanian favourite.
0:54:43 > 0:54:46But baking's only part of this feast,
0:54:46 > 0:54:49the boys are barbecuing the meat.
0:54:49 > 0:54:51And we're getting all fired up for a goulash.
0:54:54 > 0:54:57Ilya? We've brought this from a village
0:54:57 > 0:54:59in Tokaj in Hungary.
0:54:59 > 0:55:02And honestly it's some of the best wine we've ever tasted.
0:55:02 > 0:55:04- Danke.- No, thank YOU!
0:55:05 > 0:55:07- One, two... Bravo!- Cheers!
0:55:07 > 0:55:09THEY TOAST IN ROMANIAN
0:55:11 > 0:55:15And if we're giving Ilya wine, he's giving us palinka.
0:55:15 > 0:55:18It's a traditional homemade brandy made from fruit.
0:55:18 > 0:55:20This is my first pear palinka.
0:55:24 > 0:55:26That is fantastic.
0:55:26 > 0:55:29It's lovely, isn't it? It's so smooth.
0:55:29 > 0:55:32Palinka is to the Romanians what whisky is to the Scots,
0:55:32 > 0:55:35but its delights have spread over much of eastern Europe.
0:55:37 > 0:55:39Now this is a big honour, I get to cut the bread.
0:55:39 > 0:55:42You can't beat a great homemade loaf.
0:55:42 > 0:55:46Cooked in a wood fired and you can still smell the smoke.
0:55:46 > 0:55:51Ilya's wood fired oven's been going full tilt all day.
0:55:51 > 0:55:54Oh, look at that. That meat will be cooked to sizzling perfection.
0:55:54 > 0:55:59And there's an endless parade of baking appearing under our noses.
0:55:59 > 0:56:02I can't believe the fantastic smells coming from this table.
0:56:02 > 0:56:05It's drawing all the family together like a giant magnet.
0:56:05 > 0:56:07Cheers! Yes!
0:56:10 > 0:56:14- Where's your sausage, Myers?- Oh God. - Pardon? Do you want me in on this?
0:56:18 > 0:56:21Lil's family have laid on an amazing spread.
0:56:21 > 0:56:25The table's literally groaning under the weight of this fantastic food.
0:56:25 > 0:56:27And it's hard to know where to start.
0:56:27 > 0:56:31This is the best food, the best baking ever.
0:56:31 > 0:56:32- But do you know what? - What?
0:56:32 > 0:56:36We haven't done our contribution. The curly pies!
0:56:36 > 0:56:39- Pass them round, dude. - Come on. Pass them on.
0:56:39 > 0:56:41- Curly pies!- Curly pies.- Curly pies.
0:56:41 > 0:56:43Now they are all different flavours.
0:56:43 > 0:56:45Curly pies.
0:56:45 > 0:56:46- Curly pies.- My sweet.
0:56:46 > 0:56:49Thank you very much, my hubby.
0:56:51 > 0:56:53- Do you know what, Si? - What's that, mate?
0:56:53 > 0:56:55I think curly pies rock.
0:56:55 > 0:56:59It's not the only thing that's rocked on this trip, mate.
0:56:59 > 0:57:02We've taken a king-sized slice out of Eastern Europe.
0:57:02 > 0:57:05Bratislava's baking was buzzing with new ideas.
0:57:05 > 0:57:07But with that Zemlovka,
0:57:07 > 0:57:11it's also got some pretty tasty old ones as well.
0:57:11 > 0:57:14And Budapest what a city!
0:57:14 > 0:57:18Yes! Augusta's kremes, the cake Communism couldn't kill.
0:57:18 > 0:57:21And I was so glad we got off the motorways in Hungary.
0:57:21 > 0:57:24I think I've only just worked off that langos.
0:57:24 > 0:57:27And if you don't try those crackling scones at home, you're mad.
0:57:27 > 0:57:30Which is where we went next, dude.
0:57:30 > 0:57:33Sumptuous wine and sumptuous surroundings.
0:57:33 > 0:57:38And things have just got better and better since we've been in Romania.
0:57:38 > 0:57:42And do you know what? I feel quite emotional.
0:57:42 > 0:57:44Well, and so you should. It's amazing, dude.
0:57:44 > 0:57:47It's a spirit of love and food, and family.
0:57:48 > 0:57:52And after all, isn't that what life is all about?
0:57:55 > 0:57:59Our bake-ation takes us next into the heart of Europe, to Austria.
0:57:59 > 0:58:02We start in Vienna, before criss-crossing the country.
0:58:02 > 0:58:06Finishing as high as tarmac will take us up in the Alps.
0:58:06 > 0:58:11En route, we plan to enjoy a diet consisting almost entirely of cake!
0:58:11 > 0:58:13So join us for the next leg of our phenomenal...
0:58:13 > 0:58:15Bake-ation!
0:58:17 > 0:58:19Our pronunciation skills may need a bit of work.
0:58:19 > 0:58:23But if you've been inspired to master your pogaca...
0:58:23 > 0:58:27Or your zemlovka, then go to...
0:58:29 > 0:58:32..and follow the links to the Open University.
0:58:32 > 0:58:35Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd