Preserving

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0:00:02 > 0:00:07You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.

0:00:07 > 0:00:11Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...

0:00:13 > 0:00:16'Outstanding food producers...'

0:00:16 > 0:00:19'And innovative chefs...'

0:00:19 > 0:00:22'But we also have an amazing food history.'

0:00:22 > 0:00:27- Oh, wow!- Don't eat them like that. You'll break your teeth.

0:00:29 > 0:00:30Now during this series,

0:00:30 > 0:00:35we're going to be taking you on a journey into our culinary past.

0:00:35 > 0:00:39- Everything's ready, so let's get cracking.- 'We'll explore its revealing stories.'

0:00:39 > 0:00:41SI AND DAVE: Wow!

0:00:41 > 0:00:46'And meet the heroes that keep our food heritage alive.'

0:00:46 > 0:00:48It's a miracle what comes out of the oven.

0:00:48 > 0:00:51'And of course be cooking up a load of dishes

0:00:51 > 0:00:54'that reveal our foodie evolution.'

0:00:54 > 0:00:56Look at that. That's a proper British treat.

0:01:00 > 0:01:03We have a taste of history.

0:01:05 > 0:01:08- Quite simply... - BOTH: The best of British!

0:01:26 > 0:01:29'Tell you what, you know what bees have in common with people?'

0:01:29 > 0:01:32'Oh no, is this one of your jokes?'

0:01:32 > 0:01:36'Well, no. Well, since you ask, bees are the only animal other than humans

0:01:36 > 0:01:40'that treat their food to make it keep longer!'

0:01:40 > 0:01:45'Today's programme is all about preserving.'

0:01:45 > 0:01:50'The British have some of the best and most diverse preserving traditions in the world.'

0:01:50 > 0:01:54We've been preserving food for centuries.

0:01:54 > 0:01:58When supplies ran short in the winter months and fresh produce didn't keep that long,

0:01:58 > 0:02:01we became masters at conserving food.

0:02:01 > 0:02:07Some of Britain's best food products have emerged from our long tradition of preserving

0:02:07 > 0:02:11and it proves that practical can be very, very tasty.

0:02:11 > 0:02:14Your Janie's been busy, mate.

0:02:14 > 0:02:15She has, hasn't she?

0:02:16 > 0:02:21'Some of the flavours we enjoy most, like sweet jam,

0:02:21 > 0:02:28'smoked fish and salty bacon, come from methods of preserving our grub.'

0:02:28 > 0:02:31'We're going to explore those methods, which were once a way of life

0:02:31 > 0:02:35'for thousands of British people.'

0:02:35 > 0:02:38- 'And open the lid on the... - ..Ingenious- ..idea,

0:02:38 > 0:02:41'which changed food preservation forever.'

0:02:43 > 0:02:47'We'll be discovering the unique flavours only preserving can develop,

0:02:47 > 0:02:51'by cooking up an old fruity classic and an Indian-influenced pickle

0:02:51 > 0:02:54'that sets dishes ablaze.'

0:02:54 > 0:02:57'And we uncover the story of a food icon

0:02:57 > 0:03:00'that's the very best of British.'

0:03:06 > 0:03:09'For our first recipe we're going to make piccalilli,

0:03:09 > 0:03:13'a pickled preserve that takes a succulent ham hock with a crispy skin

0:03:13 > 0:03:15'and totally transforms it.'

0:03:17 > 0:03:19'As with many British foods,

0:03:19 > 0:03:22'piccalilli is a recipe that is influenced from abroad,

0:03:22 > 0:03:24'in this case, by India.'

0:03:27 > 0:03:31It's not just any old piccalilli, this is our piccalilli.

0:03:31 > 0:03:34It's bouncing, banging hot.

0:03:34 > 0:03:37It'll set a ham sandwich alight.

0:03:37 > 0:03:41A little ham hock with a potato salad, you drizzle the piccalilli on and all of a sudden,

0:03:41 > 0:03:45- Whoa! You've have got a party. - You have. In your mouth.

0:03:45 > 0:03:50And because it's a preserve and a pickle, that party's going to go on for years.

0:03:50 > 0:03:53'To kick things off, we're going to prepare the ham hock

0:03:53 > 0:03:58'by rubbing them all over with oil and seasoning with salt and pepper.'

0:03:58 > 0:04:02'A ham hock is a cured cut of meat made from the leg, just below the knee joint.'

0:04:02 > 0:04:06Because it's cooked on the bone, it keeps the moisture in the meat and it's very gelatinous. Lovely.

0:04:06 > 0:04:10And all that skin's going to go lovely and crispy and gorgeous.

0:04:11 > 0:04:16'Piccalilli is what gives us the big flavour hit in this dish.

0:04:16 > 0:04:21'Our version uses green beans, courgettes and cauliflower.'

0:04:22 > 0:04:27Now, the first references that we can find to piccalilli is by Mrs Raffald,

0:04:27 > 0:04:33who in 1772, wrote recipes for Indian chutney or piccalillio.

0:04:33 > 0:04:36She said, "It's a chutney made with mustard

0:04:36 > 0:04:41"and you can use whatever's to hand, be it kidney beans, cabbage or indeed radishes."

0:04:41 > 0:04:44In the early 1900s,

0:04:44 > 0:04:48it was known as Indian pickle or English chow chow.

0:04:48 > 0:04:53The recipes twist and change depending on what you fancy and what your family's done

0:04:53 > 0:04:57because I always think there's a great family history when it comes to pickling

0:04:57 > 0:05:02and everybody's got their own little twists and recipes and I love that.

0:05:02 > 0:05:06'Depending on the size of your ham hock, cook it at 180 degrees

0:05:06 > 0:05:08'for an hour and a half.'

0:05:11 > 0:05:16- My friend, could you transform this cauliflower into a myriad of fine florets?- I can.

0:05:16 > 0:05:20We want dinky florets, bite-sized pieces,

0:05:20 > 0:05:23just ones that are going to get mixed up and burst on your tongue.

0:05:23 > 0:05:28By bottling and pickling, you actually create a different product.

0:05:28 > 0:05:32I mean, you don't just preserve it, you turn it into something else.

0:05:32 > 0:05:37Pickling! You're turning cauliflower into a relish.

0:05:37 > 0:05:40- Come on, these are getting bigger now.- That's only little!

0:05:40 > 0:05:45- Into four, like so. There is a piccalilli etiquette, you realise. - Oh, yes.

0:05:45 > 0:05:49Go on... And again, quadrants.

0:05:49 > 0:05:53You see? That's what you want for your piccalilli.

0:05:53 > 0:05:56- What about that, look? That's nice.- Too big.

0:05:59 > 0:06:00THEY LAUGH

0:06:00 > 0:06:02Right...

0:06:04 > 0:06:08'That's all the veg done now. All we've got to do

0:06:08 > 0:06:11'is to salt them, using 100 grams of fine sea salt.'

0:06:12 > 0:06:16This is to dry out all the water from the said veg.

0:06:16 > 0:06:20When the water's out, we replace that with spice and vinegar

0:06:20 > 0:06:23and it becomes a pickle!

0:06:23 > 0:06:25Lovely colours, isn't it?

0:06:25 > 0:06:29I want to make sure all those little bits of veg are covered with salt.

0:06:29 > 0:06:34It may look as though there is a lot of salt there, but it's necessary.

0:06:34 > 0:06:38- We're going to wash it off. - We are, that's key.- So don't worry.

0:06:40 > 0:06:45Cover that with cling film for 24 hours.

0:06:45 > 0:06:48We put this in the fridge for 24 hours for the brining to happen.

0:06:48 > 0:06:51You'll be pleased to know that's the second batch.

0:06:51 > 0:06:54We got the first batch on yesterday.

0:06:54 > 0:06:57And here we are, brined!

0:06:57 > 0:07:02- It doesn't look appreciably different.- It doesn't, does it? - It stinks a bit though.

0:07:02 > 0:07:04- Ooh, yes.- Oh, aye.

0:07:04 > 0:07:06Basically we need to wash the salt off

0:07:06 > 0:07:08and that kind of sulphurous odour.

0:07:10 > 0:07:13'Honestly, don't worry about the smell. When you wash the salt off,

0:07:13 > 0:07:15'it freshens up a treat.'

0:07:19 > 0:07:22'Now we need to chop up three medium-sized onions

0:07:22 > 0:07:27'and boil them in 300 millilitres of malt vinegar for about 15 minutes.'

0:07:32 > 0:07:36'We'll also need 300 millilitres of white wine vinegar.

0:07:36 > 0:07:41'I'm going to use five tablespoons of it to blend the spices in.'

0:07:41 > 0:07:43It's time to get things hot.

0:07:43 > 0:07:47Now to this, a tablespoon of turmeric.

0:07:47 > 0:07:50This is what makes a piccalilli a banging yellow colour.

0:07:50 > 0:07:55And add to the vinegar and turmeric a very heaped tablespoon,

0:07:55 > 0:07:59maybe even a little more, of English mustard powder.

0:07:59 > 0:08:00Yes. This one's a feisty one.

0:08:00 > 0:08:05To that, a heaped teaspoon of powdered ginger.

0:08:05 > 0:08:08And if that wasn't enough,

0:08:08 > 0:08:11a heaped teaspoon of chilli flakes.

0:08:11 > 0:08:15It's a bit nouveau this, but heck it works.

0:08:15 > 0:08:18Mustard, chilli, ginger!

0:08:18 > 0:08:21And when you eat it, you see that there, Dave's T-shirt,

0:08:21 > 0:08:22that's the reaction.

0:08:22 > 0:08:24THEY WHOOP

0:08:24 > 0:08:28'Finally, add 25 grams of cornflour

0:08:28 > 0:08:31'to thicken up the spice and vinegar mix.'

0:08:31 > 0:08:35Can you smell... hot vinegar, onion?

0:08:35 > 0:08:38- It's all starting to happen. - It is, isn't it?

0:08:38 > 0:08:40I love that smell.

0:08:40 > 0:08:45Right-oh. Now to that, we add the remaining white wine vinegar.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51'Next, add in 250 grams of granulated sugar.'

0:08:51 > 0:08:54And as we're finding in our odyssey of the best of British,

0:08:54 > 0:08:57the sweet and sour pops up all the time.

0:08:57 > 0:08:59- All the time.- We're mad for it.

0:08:59 > 0:09:03- My favourite, favourite taste combination.- Sweet as sweet. - Sour, ooh.

0:09:08 > 0:09:12- That's perfect. - It is.- Perfect balance.

0:09:12 > 0:09:15That's the key to sweet and sour, particularly with pickles.

0:09:15 > 0:09:20You've have got to get that balance right because if it's too sour, nobody's going to eat it.

0:09:20 > 0:09:23If it's too sweet, you might as well have made jam.

0:09:23 > 0:09:27That is the perfect balance. Ying, Yang, Fred, Ginger, cheese, bread,

0:09:27 > 0:09:29- that sort of thing.- Si and Dave!

0:09:33 > 0:09:36'Simmer the veg with the onions and vinegar for 10 to 15 minutes,

0:09:36 > 0:09:39'but look, don't over do it, eh?'

0:09:39 > 0:09:43When you put your piccalilli on your pork pie, or tureen, or ham hock,

0:09:43 > 0:09:45you just want it go crunch.

0:09:45 > 0:09:49The last thing in the world you want is to be able to spread your cauliflower.

0:09:49 > 0:09:56- What will we do?- Could go to the pub and get pickled?- Good idea.

0:09:56 > 0:10:00'The ancient methods of preservation like pickling were relied on for centuries,

0:10:00 > 0:10:05'but science has played its part in keeping food edible too.'

0:10:06 > 0:10:08'And in the 18th century,

0:10:08 > 0:10:13'there was a revolution in the way we preserved our foods.'

0:10:13 > 0:10:16FRENCH NATIONAL ANTHEM

0:10:16 > 0:10:20'In the 1790s, Napoleon had a problem -

0:10:20 > 0:10:23'how to feed his vast armies conquering Europe.'

0:10:23 > 0:10:26'And the solution came from an unusual source...'

0:10:26 > 0:10:28Champagne!

0:10:28 > 0:10:29DRUM ROLL

0:10:29 > 0:10:32Champagne!

0:10:32 > 0:10:33Champagne!

0:10:34 > 0:10:38'In 1795, the French government offered 12,000 francs

0:10:38 > 0:10:40'to anyone who could come up with a way

0:10:40 > 0:10:44'of keeping the food edible for the squaddies.'

0:10:44 > 0:10:48'Confectioner and brewer Nicolas Apert claimed the prize

0:10:48 > 0:10:53'by preserving food in champagne bottles.'

0:10:55 > 0:10:57'Apert put his prepared food into glass bottles,

0:10:57 > 0:11:03'sealing them with a cork and wax and then heating them up.'

0:11:03 > 0:11:07'It was an effective method, sort of.'

0:11:07 > 0:11:11The jars around me I've made according to Apert's recipe,

0:11:11 > 0:11:15including one that I have here, which I made 30 years ago.

0:11:16 > 0:11:21They may not look too appetising but I'm sure if you ate them, They wouldn't poison you.

0:11:21 > 0:11:24I don't think I can be bothered to eat them for you!

0:11:24 > 0:11:26'Don't blame you, mate!'

0:11:26 > 0:11:29'After 15 years of intensive research,

0:11:29 > 0:11:31'Apert published a small bestseller,

0:11:31 > 0:11:37'excitingly named The Art Of Preserving Animal And Vegetable Substances For Many Years.'

0:11:37 > 0:11:41'His ideas fell into the hands of an Englishman called Peter Durand

0:11:41 > 0:11:43'and you can guess what happened next.'

0:11:44 > 0:11:45The tin can.

0:11:47 > 0:11:51'Early tin cans though, were far too expensive for the masses.'

0:11:51 > 0:11:54'And so their main market was the military

0:11:54 > 0:11:57'and specialist expeditions of the age.'

0:11:57 > 0:12:00'Although cans appeared in 1810,

0:12:00 > 0:12:04'nobody actually invented a can opener for another 40 years!'

0:12:04 > 0:12:06'But that wasn't the only problem.

0:12:06 > 0:12:10'Canning didn't always work. Errgh!'

0:12:10 > 0:12:13'It took another Frenchman, Louis Pasteur,

0:12:13 > 0:12:17'to figure out exactly why it was our food went off.'

0:12:19 > 0:12:22'In 1861, Pasteur showed

0:12:22 > 0:12:25'that it was micro-organisms in food that made it go bad

0:12:25 > 0:12:30'and that heating it to the right temperature killed them off.'

0:12:30 > 0:12:33'Suddenly, canned food took off

0:12:33 > 0:12:37'and one particular type was an instant success...'

0:12:37 > 0:12:39Bully beef, a corned beef.

0:12:39 > 0:12:43'In the First World War, bully beef was an essential ration for the troops.

0:12:43 > 0:12:45'It kept the army alive.'

0:12:45 > 0:12:48'As if the horrors of trench warfare weren't bad enough,

0:12:48 > 0:12:52'the delightful canned meals just kept on coming.'

0:12:53 > 0:12:55This is Maconochies,

0:12:55 > 0:12:59normally beef and vegetables, or beans and pork.

0:12:59 > 0:13:02They always called it the same thing, dog vomit.

0:13:02 > 0:13:08'But whatever they called it, there was no stopping our love affair with tinned food.'

0:13:11 > 0:13:15'Over the next century, mass production made canned food

0:13:15 > 0:13:20'cheap enough for everyone... and the food industry went canning mad.'

0:13:20 > 0:13:24Today they're making a traditional Scottish soup, Cock A Leekie.

0:13:24 > 0:13:27Each vat, by the way, contains 100 gallons,

0:13:27 > 0:13:30enough to fill 1,000 cans of soup.

0:13:38 > 0:13:43'Now if you can eat it, or drink it, it's being sold in a tin.

0:13:43 > 0:13:47'Thanks to canning, there's nothing that can't be preserved for years.'

0:13:47 > 0:13:52'And you can always find something to eat in the back of the cupboard.'

0:13:52 > 0:13:56- 'Very canny that.' - 'Oh dear!'

0:14:00 > 0:14:04'Back in the Best Of British kitchen, the veg for our piccalilli are ready

0:14:04 > 0:14:08'and it's time to add our blend of spices.'

0:14:10 > 0:14:12Now remember, in this cauldron of fire,

0:14:12 > 0:14:15it's good we've got white wine vinegar.

0:14:15 > 0:14:18Smell that! SIMON COUGHS

0:14:18 > 0:14:21Oh, it's like mustard gas! It'll be all right!

0:14:21 > 0:14:26Don't you worry at home, sitting, eating your tea. This will be great.

0:14:26 > 0:14:31- Here we go. I think we should kick off on the heat. - Yes, exactly that.

0:14:31 > 0:14:36- Now you, see that's where the piccalilli gets its colour from, the turmeric.- Yes.

0:14:36 > 0:14:40Turmeric is a vicious colour. Keep it away from your marble tops!

0:14:40 > 0:14:45Turmeric was probably first cultivated as a dye,

0:14:45 > 0:14:48but then interestingly enough, it was often used as a replacement

0:14:48 > 0:14:52to the more costly saffron in food because it gives it that sort of

0:14:52 > 0:14:56lovely yellow tinge which you can seen in our piccalilli. Fabulous.

0:14:56 > 0:15:00- It's beginning to smell like piccalilli, not mustard gas.- Quite!

0:15:00 > 0:15:03And you see the sauce has gone really, really thick now.

0:15:03 > 0:15:07- The chilli flakes are clinging to those little bits of veg.- Should we?

0:15:07 > 0:15:09After you.

0:15:09 > 0:15:12Just trace that over your gammon joint.

0:15:15 > 0:15:17That...is gorgeous.

0:15:19 > 0:15:22'But you can't eat it now. It needs to mature.

0:15:24 > 0:15:29'Fill some sterilised jars with the piccalilli mixture.'

0:15:29 > 0:15:30Lovely.

0:15:30 > 0:15:33- It's lovely, that.- Look how it's filling the jar up.

0:15:33 > 0:15:38- That's handy.- It looks so good, it could have been bought.

0:15:38 > 0:15:41'Then put them in a cool, dark place for at least a month.'

0:15:41 > 0:15:46- Oh, it's so worth it.- Oh, it is. It's lovely, this.- This is relish gold.

0:15:46 > 0:15:51Imagine a smearing of this on your burger. It'd raise Lazarus, that.

0:15:51 > 0:15:54'We've still got ham hocks waiting in the oven, though.'

0:15:54 > 0:15:56Look at this.

0:15:57 > 0:15:59'But luckily piccalilli is something

0:15:59 > 0:16:02'you can always have tucked away in your cupboard...'

0:16:02 > 0:16:04- Ahhh, yes!- Look at them!

0:16:04 > 0:16:07'..for just such an occasion.'

0:16:07 > 0:16:09- You were made to be together. You and you.- Fred and Ginger.

0:16:13 > 0:16:17'Ham hocks and piccalilli might be the perfect couple

0:16:17 > 0:16:19'but to make a meal of it

0:16:19 > 0:16:23'we're inviting the potato salad to the party as well.'

0:16:23 > 0:16:26- Now, shall we unleash the beast? - Yeah, go on!

0:16:33 > 0:16:34Ha-ha-ha-ha!

0:16:34 > 0:16:36Look at that.

0:16:37 > 0:16:39# Yeah, everybody

0:16:39 > 0:16:42# Let's have some fun

0:16:42 > 0:16:43# You only live but once... #

0:16:43 > 0:16:46That is right good pickle.

0:16:51 > 0:16:53I'll shut the lid just in case it escapes!

0:16:55 > 0:16:59- I can't wait to taste this pickle. - Go on, go on.

0:17:10 > 0:17:12It's safe to approach.

0:17:12 > 0:17:16# Let the good times roll! #

0:17:23 > 0:17:26That piccalilli, it was a bit raw when we first made it.

0:17:26 > 0:17:28But it has matured, settled down.

0:17:32 > 0:17:34The lovely thing about it...

0:17:34 > 0:17:37is that it's got a real sweet and sour to it

0:17:37 > 0:17:40but also a lovely, but subtle, hit of chilli.

0:17:40 > 0:17:45- Nice. Really good.- It's not all mustard. Bit of ginger going on.

0:17:47 > 0:17:52- It's quite a complex little thing. - Absolutely wonderful.- Yeah.

0:17:52 > 0:17:56Preserving isn't simply about making food last longer.

0:17:56 > 0:17:59Some methods of preserving food, you can take something quite simple

0:17:59 > 0:18:01and make it very, very special.

0:18:01 > 0:18:05The great thing is, with a ham hock, because the meat's so unctuous,

0:18:05 > 0:18:08we have got all the combinations that your palate loves.

0:18:08 > 0:18:11You've got a savoury note, a sweet note,

0:18:11 > 0:18:14a sour note, and then a little bit of heat with the chilli.

0:18:14 > 0:18:17- It's a perfect combo, man.- Yeah.

0:18:17 > 0:18:20'This is piccalilli for the 21st century.

0:18:21 > 0:18:26'It's cheap to make and lasts for ages but, most importantly,

0:18:26 > 0:18:29'it adds a huge depth of flavour to the right dish.'

0:18:37 > 0:18:40Making vegetables last is one thing

0:18:40 > 0:18:43but when it comes to meat, and especially fish,

0:18:43 > 0:18:47there's a method of preserving that you just can't beat.

0:18:47 > 0:18:49Smoking.

0:18:49 > 0:18:53On the Suffolk coast there's a family business that knows

0:18:53 > 0:18:56a thing or two about preserving fish.

0:18:56 > 0:19:00Pinney's catch their own fish and seafood,

0:19:00 > 0:19:04smoke it on site and even serve it up in their family restaurant.

0:19:06 > 0:19:10Best-of-British-food hero Bill Pinney is the manager.

0:19:10 > 0:19:13He's been smoking fish by hand since he was a boy.

0:19:13 > 0:19:17The secret of his success is the blackened smokehouse

0:19:17 > 0:19:21built around the back of the family home by Bill's dad.

0:19:21 > 0:19:25What we do here is almost totally different to how salmon is smoked

0:19:25 > 0:19:27in a factory nowadays.

0:19:27 > 0:19:31There's no buttons you press here, no fans, no electricity involved.

0:19:31 > 0:19:34It's the oak smoke and how the box is handled.

0:19:34 > 0:19:37To produce the smoke at the right temperature,

0:19:37 > 0:19:40you need to know how to handle the box.

0:19:40 > 0:19:42You need to get smoke at the lower temperatures,

0:19:42 > 0:19:44where the alcohols and ethers,

0:19:44 > 0:19:47the sweet-smelling smoke in the wood, comes off.

0:19:47 > 0:19:50And this method produces a smoked fish that is different

0:19:50 > 0:19:52than you'll get anywhere else.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55It's still an art, it's not an industrial process.

0:19:55 > 0:19:57You can really taste the difference.

0:19:58 > 0:20:02In the smokehouse the mackerel and trout are treated by a process

0:20:02 > 0:20:06called hot smoking, during which the fish are cooked.

0:20:06 > 0:20:10We've taken the lid off and opened up the air vent at the bottom.

0:20:10 > 0:20:13The smoke is now being consumed as flames.

0:20:13 > 0:20:16The hot smoking end then becomes in effect an oven,

0:20:16 > 0:20:18so it'll only take ten or 15 minutes

0:20:18 > 0:20:22and at the end of that time they're cooked and ready to eat.

0:20:24 > 0:20:27The smoke boxes are fuelled by burning whole oak logs,

0:20:27 > 0:20:29but not everything is hot-smoked here.

0:20:29 > 0:20:32Some fish, like salmon, are coal-smoked,

0:20:32 > 0:20:37which preserves the flavour of the fish without cooking it.

0:20:37 > 0:20:39In these two bays we've got smoked salmon,

0:20:39 > 0:20:42or salmon that's being smoked.

0:20:42 > 0:20:45That has now been in there for about 12 hours

0:20:45 > 0:20:48and it's probably going to be in there for possibly another 24.

0:20:48 > 0:20:51It's quite soft at this stage and you can see by the touch that,

0:20:51 > 0:20:55although the skin has dried off and you've got a bit of colour on there,

0:20:55 > 0:20:58it's still got quite a long way to go.

0:20:58 > 0:21:01# Come here, my little Jackie Now I've smoked me baccy

0:21:01 > 0:21:03# Let's have a bit of cracky Till the boat comes in. #

0:21:03 > 0:21:06Although nowadays people think of smoking for flavour,

0:21:06 > 0:21:10it was originally a method of preserving fish

0:21:10 > 0:21:11to make it last longer.

0:21:11 > 0:21:14For generations along the east coast,

0:21:14 > 0:21:17fleets of trawlers landed huge catches of herring

0:21:17 > 0:21:21to be split in half and coal-smoked as kippers or left whole as bloaters.

0:21:24 > 0:21:28The herring fleet was made up of ships from across Britain,

0:21:28 > 0:21:31who followed the migration of the herring shoals

0:21:31 > 0:21:33from Stornoway down to Great Yarmouth in the autumn.

0:21:33 > 0:21:37It was accompanied by armies of women from the villages of Scotland,

0:21:37 > 0:21:40who travelled down the coast

0:21:40 > 0:21:43to work long and dirty hours skilfully gutting the herring.

0:21:43 > 0:21:45Then the fish would be salted

0:21:45 > 0:21:48and hung in the smoker for a long, long time.

0:21:50 > 0:21:54And it would still be fit to eat eight months later.

0:21:54 > 0:21:56Rather you than me, though, mate.

0:21:59 > 0:22:02Sadly, the east coast herring industry is long gone,

0:22:02 > 0:22:04but Billy's smoking another delicacy

0:22:04 > 0:22:08that has been gathered in these waters since Roman times.

0:22:08 > 0:22:09Oysters.

0:22:10 > 0:22:14What we're doing at the moment is dredging for oysters.

0:22:14 > 0:22:17The oysters lie loose on the sea bed or the river bed

0:22:17 > 0:22:22and we're using a dredge which scoops the oysters off the bottom

0:22:22 > 0:22:24and then catches them in a bag net.

0:22:24 > 0:22:28And hopefully when I haul up we'll have a nice bagful of oysters.

0:22:31 > 0:22:34The oyster beds at Butley Creek had fallen into disuse

0:22:34 > 0:22:35in the early 1900s.

0:22:35 > 0:22:40Bill's dad resurrected them by seeding them with fresh stock.

0:22:40 > 0:22:42And Bill's still farming them today.

0:22:43 > 0:22:45Nice bagful.

0:22:50 > 0:22:52We've got some lovely oysters here for smoking.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55Some of these are just perfect, lovely sized oysters.

0:22:55 > 0:23:00These are a few years old now. These are actually the... Whoops!

0:23:00 > 0:23:02That one's making a bid for freedom.

0:23:02 > 0:23:05These are a Japanese type of oyster, a Pacific oyster.

0:23:05 > 0:23:08They grew originally in Japan but they've been brought over to Europe.

0:23:08 > 0:23:13And 90% of the European production is made up from this type of oyster.

0:23:13 > 0:23:14Ah, man, I love oysters.

0:23:14 > 0:23:18They're little bundles of loveliness.

0:23:18 > 0:23:22In fact, at Bill's family restaurant they've got a great recipe

0:23:22 > 0:23:24that'll tango on your taste buds.

0:23:26 > 0:23:30First up, the oysters have to be smoked for a couple of hours.

0:23:30 > 0:23:34Then it's over to the restaurant in Orford, where daughter Jodie

0:23:34 > 0:23:39takes the oysters and turns them into angels on horseback.

0:23:39 > 0:23:40It's really simple.

0:23:40 > 0:23:43Add a pinch of parsley and chopped onion to some bacon

0:23:43 > 0:23:46and wrap it around the delicious oyster.

0:23:46 > 0:23:48The oysters have only been smoked for a couple of hours

0:23:48 > 0:23:52so they're not too overpowering and they have a delicate sweet flavour,

0:23:52 > 0:23:55so once they're grilled they'll be delicious.

0:23:55 > 0:23:57When I was a child Mum and Dad always tried to get me

0:23:57 > 0:24:00to eat oysters but I wasn't having any of it,

0:24:00 > 0:24:02so the only way they could do it

0:24:02 > 0:24:06was to try and, well, sneak them in by cooking them in a bit of bacon.

0:24:06 > 0:24:08Yeah, that's how I got into eating oysters.

0:24:08 > 0:24:12After eight minutes under the grill, they're ready to pop on a bit of toast.

0:24:12 > 0:24:15Top nosh.

0:24:18 > 0:24:21We're one of the very few places that actually grow our own oysters,

0:24:21 > 0:24:24catch our own fish, smoke our own fish

0:24:24 > 0:24:27and serve it in our own restaurant.

0:24:27 > 0:24:30Traditional smoked seafood made the family way.

0:24:30 > 0:24:34- It's authentic and it's as good as it gets.- Aye, just like us.

0:24:41 > 0:24:44In Britain we've traditionally employed

0:24:44 > 0:24:46an array of preserving methods

0:24:46 > 0:24:49to ensure we've eaten well all year round.

0:24:49 > 0:24:53What could be more quintessentially British than marmalade?

0:24:56 > 0:25:00As well as being a classic preserve, marmalade is big business.

0:25:00 > 0:25:04We spend around £60 million a year on it in Britain,

0:25:04 > 0:25:08eating our way through 30 million litres' worth.

0:25:08 > 0:25:14To find out more about the origins of the marmalade we know and love today, we're off to Dundee.

0:25:21 > 0:25:25Dundee is legendary as the birthplace of marmalade

0:25:25 > 0:25:29but, as with many legends, there's more than a bit of myth involved.

0:25:33 > 0:25:36The story goes that in the 18th century a Spanish ship

0:25:36 > 0:25:41containing Seville oranges was forced into port during a storm.

0:25:41 > 0:25:46The fruit ended up with a local sweetmaker called Janet Keiller,

0:25:46 > 0:25:50who chopped them up and turned them into a kind of orange jam.

0:25:50 > 0:25:51It was called marmalade

0:25:51 > 0:25:55and the name of Keiller's was made famous all over the world.

0:25:58 > 0:26:00Well, that's the story,

0:26:00 > 0:26:04but to find out the truth we've come to the McManus Museum

0:26:04 > 0:26:08to meet the curator of social history, Rhona Rodger.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10What's the story?

0:26:10 > 0:26:15Yes, well, there's a few myths surrounding marmalade in Dundee.

0:26:15 > 0:26:18Keiller's, although they didn't invent Dundee marmalade,

0:26:18 > 0:26:22- they produced what we now know today as marmalade.- Right.

0:26:22 > 0:26:26So they took old recipes that would have been available at the time

0:26:26 > 0:26:31and changed it into what was more sort of a jam-based consistency

0:26:31 > 0:26:34and added the chips, as they're called, the peel.

0:26:34 > 0:26:38What would marmalade have been before it was marmalade

0:26:38 > 0:26:42and Keiller's took it and...made it into something.

0:26:42 > 0:26:45- What would it have been?- Well, before, in the 1700s and things,

0:26:45 > 0:26:48there were recipes for marmalade, erm...

0:26:48 > 0:26:51but it would have been a more... it would have been a dessert.

0:26:54 > 0:26:58The dessert was based on a Portuguese delicacy called marmelada.

0:26:58 > 0:27:01It was a kind of cake made from quince.

0:27:03 > 0:27:05This ancient preserve goes back a long way.

0:27:05 > 0:27:10Henry VIII was given it as a gift in the 1500s but over time it evolved

0:27:10 > 0:27:15and by the 18th century in Scotland they were making it using oranges.

0:27:16 > 0:27:20When Keiller's turned it into something you could spread on your toast,

0:27:20 > 0:27:22it became a bestseller.

0:27:23 > 0:27:26They were the largest confectioners in Britain

0:27:26 > 0:27:29and marmalade became probably their main product

0:27:29 > 0:27:33and Scottish people stopped having it as a dessert and they liked

0:27:33 > 0:27:37to have it, this warming, sort of tangy flavour, for their breakfasts.

0:27:37 > 0:27:41It was cheaper than butter, so it was available to everyone,

0:27:41 > 0:27:43and then it sort of spread out across the Empire

0:27:43 > 0:27:45and across the world.

0:27:45 > 0:27:48So it was exported to the whole of Asia, Australasia,

0:27:48 > 0:27:50there was a big export business to New Zealand,

0:27:50 > 0:27:52where there were a lot of Scottish people.

0:27:54 > 0:27:59This huge marmalade empire relied on Seville oranges from Spain.

0:28:00 > 0:28:03They were once the only orange available in Europe.

0:28:03 > 0:28:06Their bitter and sour taste was perfect for marmalade

0:28:06 > 0:28:10but meant that they weren't much use for anything else.

0:28:11 > 0:28:15And Keiller's were producing marmalade by the bucketload.

0:28:15 > 0:28:19Where did they store it? Because clearly it's a huge, huge industry.

0:28:19 > 0:28:23Yes, well, when they made it they would just put it in its pot

0:28:23 > 0:28:26straight from being hot and it was, erm,

0:28:26 > 0:28:29a woman's job then to come along and cover all the pots.

0:28:29 > 0:28:31Originally they were covered with bladder

0:28:31 > 0:28:35and then it went on to be covered with a parchment paper

0:28:35 > 0:28:38and tied, so that's why we have no surviving lids.

0:28:38 > 0:28:41And the pots came from Newcastle, so...

0:28:41 > 0:28:44- Was that from Maling, from the Maling Pottery?- Yes, it was.

0:28:44 > 0:28:48And they used about 1.5 million of those pots a year.

0:28:48 > 0:28:51What's the significance of the cricket bat?

0:28:52 > 0:28:56Well, this is a jam stirrer that would have been used...

0:28:56 > 0:29:00Someone would have stood and constantly stirred the marmalade and the jams

0:29:00 > 0:29:04in the big copper pans that the jam and marmalade was made in.

0:29:05 > 0:29:10This is the preserves department, where they make jams and marmalade.

0:29:10 > 0:29:12Today it's marmalade.

0:29:12 > 0:29:16Marmalade production was seasonal, running from December to around March.

0:29:16 > 0:29:21Once it was over, the factories would switch their processes to making jam.

0:29:21 > 0:29:27This girl's job is to keep feeding empty jars onto the conveyor line. The jars are automatically filled.

0:29:27 > 0:29:32By the 20th century, marmalade was an essential food on breakfast tables everywhere.

0:29:32 > 0:29:37Famously the favourite preserve of British icons like Paddington Bear

0:29:37 > 0:29:38and Winston Churchill.

0:29:38 > 0:29:40This magnifying screen lets you see

0:29:40 > 0:29:44if there's any burnt peel or foreign bodies in the marmalade.

0:29:44 > 0:29:48Keiller was bought out in the 1900s, but marmalade has

0:29:48 > 0:29:52continued to be made in the Dundee area right up to the present date.

0:29:54 > 0:29:58Mackays are the last producer of Dundee's iconic marmalade.

0:29:58 > 0:30:03It's a family run business and we have come to meet managing director Martin Grant.

0:30:03 > 0:30:07- Welcome to Mackays.- Hello, Martin. - Very nice to meet you, sir.

0:30:07 > 0:30:10Good to meet you. Come on through. Last pours are about to start.

0:30:10 > 0:30:12Brilliant. We will follow you.

0:30:14 > 0:30:18The company makes its marmalade the traditional way,

0:30:18 > 0:30:20so we are going to see how it is done.

0:30:20 > 0:30:24Making marmalade at home might be a bit of a peaceful process,

0:30:24 > 0:30:28but producing it on an industrial scale, well, it is a bit noisy.

0:30:28 > 0:30:33These are the vats that you pour the marmalade mixture in?

0:30:33 > 0:30:38Yes, this is the original style, so this is as close to home-made as you'll get in a commercial world.

0:30:43 > 0:30:48Their marmalade is made in a series of small vats rather than a single large one,

0:30:48 > 0:30:54which allows them to control the cooking more easily.

0:30:54 > 0:30:57The copper bottomed vats are steam heated, which gives a constant

0:30:57 > 0:31:02temperature to allow the flavours to cook slowly and intensely.

0:31:05 > 0:31:07It does not take long to make a jar of marmalade.

0:31:07 > 0:31:11First off, you need to add liquid cane sugar.

0:31:14 > 0:31:16Then comes the orange pulp.

0:31:18 > 0:31:21Depending on what time of year the marmalade is being made,

0:31:21 > 0:31:23you might need to add more pectin.

0:31:23 > 0:31:27This is the substance in the oranges that makes the marmalade thicken.

0:31:27 > 0:31:31How much extra you need depends on when the oranges were good.

0:31:31 > 0:31:34You want to make sure the marmalade is the same

0:31:34 > 0:31:38whether it be January or December, all the way through.

0:31:38 > 0:31:41You have to moderate the pectin levels,

0:31:41 > 0:31:44so early crop fruits is really, really high in pectin, so we use less.

0:31:44 > 0:31:47At the end of the season, it is really low in pectin,

0:31:47 > 0:31:50so we have to add it to get it to set.

0:31:50 > 0:31:51That is how we have to do it.

0:31:51 > 0:31:55So we change depending on how old the fruit is.

0:31:59 > 0:32:03When it starts to boil, the mixture is stirred with a paddle.

0:32:03 > 0:32:09Then it is boiled vigorously for a full 18 minutes.

0:32:12 > 0:32:14It boils up like molten lava.

0:32:14 > 0:32:17So you certainly wouldn't want to do this at home.

0:32:17 > 0:32:19That vat there, with the steam going,

0:32:19 > 0:32:22it is like Willy Wonka's chocolate factory.

0:32:24 > 0:32:29Martin believes cooking marmalade slowly for 18 minutes gives a better flavour.

0:32:29 > 0:32:34Larger manufacturers cook theirs in pressure cookers for just three minutes.

0:32:36 > 0:32:39Just degrades the quality of the fruit, the flavour and the taste.

0:32:39 > 0:32:44But the trick with this is knowing when to shut it off.

0:32:44 > 0:32:49To make sure the marmalade is reaching the right consistency,

0:32:49 > 0:32:52its thickness is tested. If it boils for too long,

0:32:52 > 0:32:54it'll taste like burnt candy floss.

0:32:54 > 0:32:57What do you reckon?

0:32:57 > 0:33:04- It's perfect.- Perfect. See, the lass from Mackays, she says yes.

0:33:05 > 0:33:08Once it's cooled a bit, it's ready to go,

0:33:08 > 0:33:12though sometimes you might want to add a little bit of something extra.

0:33:12 > 0:33:17- They must trust you.- Just.- They've got to, he's signed a pledge.

0:33:22 > 0:33:24That is amazing.

0:33:24 > 0:33:27It is good to know, though, when you treat yourself to a nice,

0:33:27 > 0:33:31posh jar of marmalade, with a bit of the good stuff in,

0:33:31 > 0:33:35this is the good stuff that's going in.

0:33:35 > 0:33:37- All that, seven bottles. - Seven bottles?

0:33:37 > 0:33:40It is getting better all the time! Fantastic!

0:33:40 > 0:33:44- That is another good product. It is good here, isn't it?- It is.

0:33:44 > 0:33:45It is interesting.

0:33:46 > 0:33:53- Here we are, guys.- Great.- Heaven. - Toasted by you guys today. Well...

0:33:53 > 0:33:57Now the best bit - marmalade tasting.

0:33:57 > 0:33:59It is the most wonderful, great,

0:33:59 > 0:34:03traditional pleasures in life, isn't it? Toast and marmalade.

0:34:03 > 0:34:07The story of the product is from the kitchen,

0:34:07 > 0:34:09so we have tried to keep as close to that as possible.

0:34:09 > 0:34:13It's cooked in the old-fashioned way and we do not muck about with it,

0:34:13 > 0:34:15nothing else goes into that product.

0:34:15 > 0:34:19It is great ingredients, not messed about with, equals a brilliant product,

0:34:19 > 0:34:21and that in essence is the best of British, isn't it?

0:34:21 > 0:34:25It is very heart-warming to know that the marmalade traditions

0:34:25 > 0:34:28and industry is alive and well in the north-east of Scotland.

0:34:28 > 0:34:31It is a preserve that can bring sunshine to a winter's day, can't it?

0:34:31 > 0:34:34- Absolutely.- That is the idea of preserving.- Absolutely.

0:34:34 > 0:34:37You have your oranges, it's one thing eating them in the sun,

0:34:37 > 0:34:40you can have a little bit of it every day.

0:34:44 > 0:34:46Jams and marmalade aren't the only useful way

0:34:46 > 0:34:49of preserving citrussy fruit.

0:34:49 > 0:34:53We're going to make some deliciously British lemon curd.

0:34:53 > 0:34:59And then we are going to bring a bit of excitement to some lemon and blueberry muffins.

0:34:59 > 0:35:03I'm going to make the lemon curd and I'm just going to make

0:35:03 > 0:35:06a couple of jars of it and keep that for my tea.

0:35:06 > 0:35:10With the leftovers, Mr King is going to apply them to make

0:35:10 > 0:35:14the most delicious blueberry and lemon muffins you have ever tasted.

0:35:14 > 0:35:17Our lemon curd is basically made using a combination of eggs

0:35:17 > 0:35:21and lemons cooked over simmering water.

0:35:21 > 0:35:25To start with, you need four whole eggs, then four egg yolks.

0:35:25 > 0:35:28While Dave's doing that,

0:35:28 > 0:35:32I am going to start melting 100 grams of butter for the muffins.

0:35:32 > 0:35:34These are American muffins,

0:35:34 > 0:35:37which basically is a puffed-up fairy cake in my eyes,

0:35:37 > 0:35:40and muffins should be English, soft and doughy.

0:35:40 > 0:35:44In the 19th century, we used to have muffin men that wandered round the streets.

0:35:44 > 0:35:48But somebody moaned and complained that the bell was too loud

0:35:48 > 0:35:52because that's how they used to tell the muffin man was in the street.

0:35:52 > 0:35:57Then there was a decree from the government to say, "Excuse me, muffin man, stop ringing your bell."

0:35:57 > 0:35:59- Some people moan about everything! - Don't they?!

0:35:59 > 0:36:03Beat the egg mixture together with a whisk

0:36:03 > 0:36:05and grate in the zest of three lemons.

0:36:07 > 0:36:11While Dave's zesting his lemons, I'm putting in some self-raising flour

0:36:11 > 0:36:16and sifting it into a bowl with a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda.

0:36:16 > 0:36:20There is part of the history of lemons that is quite sad.

0:36:20 > 0:36:22Christopher Columbus,

0:36:22 > 0:36:25he established a settlement on Haiti and they were growing lemons,

0:36:25 > 0:36:29and lemons started coming backwards and forwards from the New World.

0:36:29 > 0:36:32Sailors all over the place were dying of scurvy.

0:36:32 > 0:36:35The ships were full of lemons and nobody realised that

0:36:35 > 0:36:37if they had eaten the lemons, they wouldn't die.

0:36:41 > 0:36:44'Mix two whole eggs together...'

0:36:44 > 0:36:46One.

0:36:46 > 0:36:52'..then add two tablespoons of milk and 150mls of yoghurt,

0:36:52 > 0:36:56'and whisk until it is really smooth.'

0:36:56 > 0:37:01Then I've melted some butter in a pan and we add that as well.

0:37:03 > 0:37:05Once that's done,

0:37:05 > 0:37:08you're ready to add 100 grams of caster sugar to the flour

0:37:08 > 0:37:12with 100 grams of blueberries.

0:37:12 > 0:37:15- Do you want a lemon, mate? - Go on, mate.- Incoming.

0:37:15 > 0:37:17And the zest of a lemon.

0:37:19 > 0:37:22Mix all the dry goods together and just make sure that you get

0:37:22 > 0:37:26all of those blueberries evenly distributed in the flour.

0:37:26 > 0:37:30If you don't, somebody will feel cheated when they eat the muffin.

0:37:30 > 0:37:34Pour the eggy mixture into the flour and blueberry mix. Look at that.

0:37:34 > 0:37:37Lovely, silky, smooth.

0:37:37 > 0:37:43Now, combine the wet with the dry to make the cake mix.

0:37:46 > 0:37:47Now for the curd.

0:37:47 > 0:37:50We need the juice of six lemons...

0:37:50 > 0:37:54Funny thing is, you call lemon curd a preserve.

0:37:54 > 0:37:56It is really, but it was never as popular as jam

0:37:56 > 0:37:59because jam always kept better than lemon curd.

0:38:01 > 0:38:04Pour this lemon juice into the eggs with the zest.

0:38:04 > 0:38:10Yes, it really does need all that lemon juice.

0:38:10 > 0:38:17Then add 100 grams caster sugar and the same amount of butter.

0:38:17 > 0:38:19This is where the fun starts.

0:38:19 > 0:38:23We mustn't put that bowl into direct contact with the boiling water,

0:38:23 > 0:38:27or else our lemon curd will become lemon curdle.

0:38:27 > 0:38:30But as it goes, the sugar will melt, the butter will melt,

0:38:30 > 0:38:33the eggs will cook and I will end up, with a bit of luck,

0:38:33 > 0:38:39with a bowl of lovely, glossy, lemony lemon curd.

0:38:39 > 0:38:42I just stand here like a lemon stirring this

0:38:42 > 0:38:45until magic happens in the pan.

0:38:49 > 0:38:52Our muffin mix is ready to go in its cases.

0:38:52 > 0:38:55I find an ice cream scoop works quite well for this.

0:39:01 > 0:39:06With the back of a spoon, I'm going to make a little well

0:39:06 > 0:39:11in the top of our muffins to take a teaspoon of this lovely lemon curd.

0:39:11 > 0:39:15The lemon curd is going to sit on the top with a sugary crust,

0:39:15 > 0:39:19so that when you bite into the muffin you get this lemon burst that

0:39:19 > 0:39:21tickles your tonsils.

0:39:21 > 0:39:23Wait until the muffins are cold,

0:39:23 > 0:39:26because you may get a mouthful of lemon napalm.

0:39:27 > 0:39:32For the lemon curd, it is a waiting game.

0:39:32 > 0:39:35Stir it for five minutes until the butter has melted

0:39:35 > 0:39:37and it has started to thicken.

0:39:37 > 0:39:43- How is the curd going, mate?- As you can see, it is beginning to thicken.

0:39:43 > 0:39:47At this point, use a whisk to stir the curd continuously

0:39:47 > 0:39:51for about 12 minutes until it's the consistency of custard.

0:39:51 > 0:39:57It is going. Do you want a grab a spoon, see what this is like when it cools? I think I might be there.

0:39:57 > 0:40:02You can tell it is ready when it clings to a cold spoon like this.

0:40:02 > 0:40:04Upside down, that is what you want from your lemon curd.

0:40:04 > 0:40:06Off we go, Mr King.

0:40:08 > 0:40:14So, just on the top, one little teaspoon of lemon curd, like that.

0:40:16 > 0:40:17This is perfect.

0:40:17 > 0:40:21It is probably a bit zingier then the commercial lemon curd,

0:40:21 > 0:40:23which for these muffins is perfect.

0:40:23 > 0:40:27It is just when you want a sharp hit on the top.

0:40:27 > 0:40:30Finally, sprinkle some granulated sugar on the top of the muffins

0:40:30 > 0:40:33and they're ready for the oven.

0:40:33 > 0:40:37190 degrees, depending on your oven, for 20 minutes.

0:40:37 > 0:40:41That's Celsius, not Fahrenheit. I'd better bottle up my lemon curd.

0:40:41 > 0:40:43That would be a shame not to.

0:40:48 > 0:40:52A great present, isn't it, this? Again, we've sterilised these jars.

0:40:54 > 0:40:57A little bit of greaseproof on the top, like that.

0:40:57 > 0:41:01And that will do us for a good couple of cream teas.

0:41:07 > 0:41:13- Oh, yes! Lovely.- Look at the sugar, it's caramelised on the top.

0:41:13 > 0:41:16There is a temptation to put them straight into your mush, but don't.

0:41:16 > 0:41:19Remember to let them cool down properly before you do.

0:41:19 > 0:41:21Look at that.

0:41:21 > 0:41:25- It's all sticky on the outside. - Look at that.

0:41:25 > 0:41:30It's like mining for coal, that. Oh, they're springy. Lovely.

0:41:30 > 0:41:34It's really good, isn't it? I want to taste the top.

0:41:40 > 0:41:42- What is it like?- Super lemony.

0:41:42 > 0:41:46The thing about preserving is by preserving something

0:41:46 > 0:41:48you change the nature of it and, in a funny sort of way,

0:41:48 > 0:41:53you always seem to give whatever you're preserving more flavour.

0:41:53 > 0:41:54You can liven up something plain.

0:41:54 > 0:41:59A simple muffin, lemon curd on the top - it's a bit special.

0:42:01 > 0:42:04Our muffins are great to have with a brew.

0:42:04 > 0:42:07The lemon tanginess adds a real zest to your afternoon tea.

0:42:11 > 0:42:17Lemon curd is something you can use with cakes, tarts, toast or scones.

0:42:17 > 0:42:18Marvellous!

0:42:22 > 0:42:27Preserving has been a great British tradition for centuries.

0:42:27 > 0:42:31In the past, it provided a livelihood for thousands of people

0:42:31 > 0:42:34and has given us some of our most distinctive foods.

0:42:36 > 0:42:42And the quest to make our food last longer has led to some huge advances in science.

0:42:43 > 0:42:47But in this age when we can get fresh produce all year round

0:42:47 > 0:42:49we no longer preserve out of necessity...

0:42:49 > 0:42:54We do it for the sheer love of the flavours and textures it brings

0:42:54 > 0:42:59to our dinner plate and long may it continue, because it is fabulous!

0:43:01 > 0:43:04And to find out how to cook the recipes in today show,

0:43:04 > 0:43:08visit -

0:43:08 > 0:43:12to discover some amazing facts about the history of food.

0:43:12 > 0:43:15And to find out how to cook up tonight's recipes.

0:43:19 > 0:43:23Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:43:23 > 0:43:26E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk