0:00:03 > 0:00:07You know, we believe that Britain has the best food in the world.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11Not only can we boast fantastic ingredients...
0:00:11 > 0:00:13Look at them!
0:00:13 > 0:00:15'Outstanding food producers...'
0:00:15 > 0:00:16Look at that!
0:00:16 > 0:00:19'And innovative chefs...'
0:00:19 > 0:00:22'but we also have an amazing food history!'
0:00:22 > 0:00:25Ah, brilliant. Wow!
0:00:25 > 0:00:27Don't eat them like that.
0:00:27 > 0:00:29You break your teeth!
0:00:29 > 0:00:31During this series,
0:00:31 > 0:00:33we're going to be taking you on a journey
0:00:33 > 0:00:35into our culinary past.
0:00:35 > 0:00:37Everything's ready, get cracking!
0:00:37 > 0:00:39We'll explore its revealing stories...
0:00:39 > 0:00:42BOTH: Wow!
0:00:42 > 0:00:44'and meet the heroes keeping our food heritage alive.'
0:00:44 > 0:00:48It's a miracle what comes out of the oven!
0:00:48 > 0:00:51And of course, be cooking up a load of dishes,
0:00:51 > 0:00:54that reveal our foodie evolution.
0:00:54 > 0:00:55Look at that!
0:00:55 > 0:00:56That's a proper British treat!
0:01:00 > 0:01:03We have...a taste of history.
0:01:05 > 0:01:06Quite simply
0:01:06 > 0:01:08BOTH: the best of British!
0:01:21 > 0:01:24MOTORCYCLE ENGINE REVS
0:01:25 > 0:01:28Today we're celebrating cheese.
0:01:28 > 0:01:29'70s STYLE ORGAN MUSIC
0:01:29 > 0:01:31Not that kind of cheese!
0:01:31 > 0:01:34We're a nation of cheese lovers,
0:01:34 > 0:01:38consuming around 700,000 tonnes of the stuff every year.
0:01:38 > 0:01:40It's a staple of the British diet.
0:01:40 > 0:01:45In the show we'll be rustling up an authentic Yorkshire cheesecake...
0:01:45 > 0:01:48tasting an amazing range of Scottish cheeses...
0:01:48 > 0:01:51and witnessing the makings of a champion!
0:01:51 > 0:01:54This is our homage to fromage!
0:01:54 > 0:01:57Cheese is one of the oldest foodstuffs
0:01:57 > 0:01:58known to mankind.
0:01:58 > 0:02:01And it actually has its origins
0:02:01 > 0:02:02in prehistoric herding.
0:02:02 > 0:02:04Our ancestors must have thought,
0:02:04 > 0:02:07"Oh, I'll just have a cheeky nibble of something
0:02:07 > 0:02:10"to wash that woolly mammoth down! Oh...cheese!"
0:02:10 > 0:02:12And in the Sahara there are cave paintings
0:02:12 > 0:02:14that depict the cheesemaking process,
0:02:14 > 0:02:16which actually, thinking about it,
0:02:16 > 0:02:19isn't a bad place to store cheese...in a cave.
0:02:19 > 0:02:24There are over 700 different cheeses produced in Britain today,
0:02:24 > 0:02:27and we're here to sample a few of the best.
0:02:27 > 0:02:31We Brits are mad about cheese,
0:02:31 > 0:02:34even holding a world-famous cheese rolling festival,
0:02:34 > 0:02:37where people risk life and limb, race down a steep hill,
0:02:37 > 0:02:40to catch an 8 pound Double Gloucester.
0:02:40 > 0:02:42In the early 19th century,
0:02:42 > 0:02:45all manner of cheeses were being made
0:02:45 > 0:02:48in farmhouses across the land.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51But then two things happened to threaten our beloved cheese.
0:02:51 > 0:02:54The Industrial Revolution
0:02:54 > 0:02:55made it more profitable
0:02:55 > 0:02:58for farmers to sell milk to large-scale dairies,
0:02:58 > 0:03:00than make cheese.
0:03:00 > 0:03:03And local cheese-making took a nose dive.
0:03:03 > 0:03:06But worse was to come. In World War Two,
0:03:06 > 0:03:09the Ministry of Food decreed only one type could be manufactured.
0:03:09 > 0:03:12Depressingly named The National Cheese,
0:03:12 > 0:03:16- it was bland and uninspiring. - So when rationing ended
0:03:16 > 0:03:18and a new product processed cheese hit our shores,
0:03:18 > 0:03:21we lapped it up.
0:03:21 > 0:03:22# One for daddy
0:03:22 > 0:03:24# One for mummy
0:03:24 > 0:03:26# Here's Dairlyea for everyone. #
0:03:27 > 0:03:30Invented in America by a pioneering food manufacturer
0:03:30 > 0:03:32named JL Kraft,
0:03:32 > 0:03:35the Dairylea triangle became
0:03:35 > 0:03:36a British best seller.
0:03:36 > 0:03:41With so little choice and new mass production techniques taking over,
0:03:41 > 0:03:45cheese, and British cheese at that, just wasn't the same.
0:03:45 > 0:03:48You could neither wash nor eat this, you know.
0:03:48 > 0:03:50'Did you get that, Dave?'
0:03:50 > 0:03:51It's like soap.
0:03:51 > 0:03:53This junk, what goes in, call it cheese...
0:03:53 > 0:03:55it's not mature, there's no rind...
0:03:55 > 0:03:57I think they said modern cheese
0:03:57 > 0:03:59doesn't taste very nice!
0:03:59 > 0:04:02They don't know what the taste of cheese is.
0:04:02 > 0:04:04In fact, decent cheese became so scarce,
0:04:04 > 0:04:08that getting hold of it was a clandestine affair.
0:04:08 > 0:04:10Where on earth do you get hold of this?
0:04:10 > 0:04:13I've been round Dorset for several days and haven't found any.
0:04:13 > 0:04:17Don't ask me where because I haven't got a clue.
0:04:17 > 0:04:19So on the following Tuesday evening,
0:04:19 > 0:04:21we lay in wait for the unorthodox coming,
0:04:21 > 0:04:23of the mysterious Blue Vinny.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26- These are the Dorset Blue Vinnies. - That's right, yeah.
0:04:26 > 0:04:28Where on earth do they come from?
0:04:28 > 0:04:30I don't know where they come from.
0:04:30 > 0:04:32He had two big cheeses,
0:04:32 > 0:04:34which he said he got from you.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37They tasted very nice.
0:04:40 > 0:04:42No, Sid is new to me. Probably got them
0:04:42 > 0:04:45maybe another man of my name.
0:04:45 > 0:04:49- The sources are pretty secret. - They are.
0:04:49 > 0:04:53Traditional British cheeses might have been lost forever,
0:04:53 > 0:04:56but for a small group of artisan producers.
0:04:56 > 0:04:58Old recipes and methods were resurrected,
0:04:58 > 0:05:02and brand new varieties hit our supermarket shelves.
0:05:02 > 0:05:06These days, British cheese rivals anything from the continent.
0:05:06 > 0:05:10And with more varieties made here than in France, yes, really...
0:05:10 > 0:05:12it's time to celebrate the treasures
0:05:12 > 0:05:15of the great British cheese board!
0:05:18 > 0:05:20We're heading to Scotland next,
0:05:20 > 0:05:24where in the last 20 years, traditional farmhouse cheeses,
0:05:24 > 0:05:26as well as new varieties,
0:05:26 > 0:05:28have been enjoying a huge revival.
0:05:29 > 0:05:33There are parts of Britain that are synonymous with great cheesemaking,
0:05:33 > 0:05:36Leicester, Cheshire, Cheddar, Gloucester!
0:05:36 > 0:05:38But Scotland?
0:05:38 > 0:05:40It's not the first place you think of
0:05:40 > 0:05:42when it comes to great British cheeses.
0:05:42 > 0:05:46We've come to discover the secrets of great Scottish cheesemaking.
0:05:46 > 0:05:48And we're about to take a tour
0:05:48 > 0:05:50of the finest,
0:05:50 > 0:05:53from the Borders to the Highlands.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56Our journey begins in Edinburgh,
0:05:56 > 0:05:57at a specialist cheese shop
0:05:57 > 0:06:01founded in 1993 by Scottish cheese guru,
0:06:01 > 0:06:03Iain Mellis.
0:06:03 > 0:06:05- Iain, hello, I'm Si! - I'm Dave. Pleased to meet you.
0:06:05 > 0:06:08Any tastes we could have...
0:06:08 > 0:06:11- We're always tasting! - ..from the Borders or Highlands?
0:06:11 > 0:06:15A little tour, a coach trip around the world of cheese.
0:06:15 > 0:06:17Normally when we're tasting,
0:06:17 > 0:06:19start with a milder rather than stronger one.
0:06:19 > 0:06:21You'll never taste the milder one.
0:06:21 > 0:06:22This one here,
0:06:22 > 0:06:24Cambus O'May,
0:06:24 > 0:06:26this is an old Aberdeenshire cheese,
0:06:26 > 0:06:30and it's made just like Lancashire cheese with two day curd.
0:06:30 > 0:06:32- It's a lovely texture.- It is.
0:06:35 > 0:06:36Wow!
0:06:36 > 0:06:38That's beautiful!
0:06:38 > 0:06:40It just disappears.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43This one here, Isle Of Mull, which is from the West Coast.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46This is more of a cheddar style cheese, which has probably
0:06:46 > 0:06:49been made in Scotland for the last couple of hundred years.
0:06:49 > 0:06:53This has just been made, June, July, because it's yellow.
0:06:53 > 0:06:54All the other Mull cheese,
0:06:54 > 0:06:57when the cows are inside,
0:06:57 > 0:07:01they're fed on the spent grains from the distillery,
0:07:01 > 0:07:04but for two months of the year, they're allowed on the very little
0:07:04 > 0:07:07amount of grass there is on the islands.
0:07:07 > 0:07:09It's nearly all heather and it becomes...
0:07:09 > 0:07:11it gets that yellow colour from the grass.
0:07:11 > 0:07:14This is a brand new cheese in Scotland.
0:07:14 > 0:07:15The goats' milk Cromarty,
0:07:15 > 0:07:18more like a Camembert recipe,
0:07:18 > 0:07:20but using goats' milk.
0:07:20 > 0:07:22That's more Camembert than Camembert.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25It's just... Oh, it's fabulous!
0:07:25 > 0:07:28Do you think Scottish cheese deserves a better platform,
0:07:28 > 0:07:29it deserves to be better known?
0:07:29 > 0:07:32I think Scottish cheese makers have been working
0:07:32 > 0:07:34really hard in the last 15 years.
0:07:34 > 0:07:37They've come a long way, since I have started the shop.
0:07:37 > 0:07:40I would say British cheese is some of the best in the world now
0:07:40 > 0:07:44and Scottish cheese are now as good as every other British cheese.
0:07:44 > 0:07:46Every cheese we've tasted here has been world-class.
0:07:46 > 0:07:51So what kind of really old varieties of Scottish cheese are there?
0:07:51 > 0:07:54Crowdie is still... I mean, I'm from up the north of Scotland
0:07:54 > 0:07:57and crowdie is still a big thing in the north of Scotland.
0:07:57 > 0:07:59In the Lowlands it was never really big.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02In the Highlands it really is,
0:08:02 > 0:08:04I mean, that's the oldest variety of cheese.
0:08:06 > 0:08:10- We shall go search some crowdie. - I think we should.
0:08:10 > 0:08:13Introduced by the Vikings in the 8th century,
0:08:13 > 0:08:15crowdie is a soft curd cheese
0:08:15 > 0:08:19originally made from slightly soured milk whey and rolled in oatmeal.
0:08:19 > 0:08:22Traditionally, it's eaten with oatcakes
0:08:22 > 0:08:25to alleviate the effects of whiskey drinking.
0:08:25 > 0:08:28Our quest for this special cheese with an ancient history,
0:08:28 > 0:08:31takes us to just outside Inverness
0:08:31 > 0:08:33and the Connage Highland Dairy,
0:08:33 > 0:08:36run by the Clark family.
0:08:36 > 0:08:38- Hello, Callum. Dave. - Dave, nice to meet you.
0:08:38 > 0:08:40Good to meet you, I'm Si. How are you?
0:08:40 > 0:08:43Is it crowdie or crawdie?
0:08:43 > 0:08:46Some people call it croodie
0:08:46 > 0:08:49but we call it crowdie and most people do now.
0:08:49 > 0:08:52Do you want have a wee look?
0:08:52 > 0:08:55A decent sized batch in here today.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58First thing this morning, I skimmed off the cream
0:08:58 > 0:09:01and then I start to mix it and bring it up to temperature.
0:09:01 > 0:09:05- Is that curds and whey? - Curds and whey we've got here, yes.
0:09:05 > 0:09:09- It's a proper cheesecloth. - Proper cheesecloth.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12All that cheesecloth you were wearing in the '80s, Kingy!
0:09:12 > 0:09:15I thought I smelt funny!
0:09:20 > 0:09:22So from here, we go over here...
0:09:24 > 0:09:27And this is called bagging off?
0:09:27 > 0:09:31This is called bagging off so, we'll leave that to drain away
0:09:31 > 0:09:35till tomorrow morning and then we had a little bit of salt,
0:09:35 > 0:09:37mix it in, and then pot it off
0:09:37 > 0:09:40and it's ready tomorrow afternoon.
0:09:40 > 0:09:42- And that's it? - That's it. Couldn't be simpler.
0:09:43 > 0:09:47So what does this Scottish delicacy taste like?
0:09:47 > 0:09:48There's only one way to find out!
0:09:48 > 0:09:51We're meeting cheese-maker, Helen Ross,
0:09:51 > 0:09:55who's found a use for crowdie in just about everything!
0:09:55 > 0:09:57The bread is made with the whey from the crowdie
0:09:57 > 0:10:00which I take home and I just use as a base for my bread.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03- Would you like to try some? - I'd love some! Absolutely!
0:10:03 > 0:10:06- Wonder if it would work with scones? - Yes, I have heard,
0:10:06 > 0:10:08though I've never actually tried it.
0:10:08 > 0:10:10- You do buttermilk, don't you?- Uh-huh.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12This is cheese and onion bread
0:10:12 > 0:10:16and the cheese in it is our hard cheese, Dunlop.
0:10:16 > 0:10:18Look, you see, you get northern portions up here!
0:10:18 > 0:10:22None of this frugal southern muck down here, look at that!
0:10:22 > 0:10:26- None of your mealy mouthed slivers! - Oh, no! Big portions here!
0:10:26 > 0:10:29This is the very dry crowdie,
0:10:29 > 0:10:32- and it's got toasted pinhead oatmeal round it.- Lovely!
0:10:32 > 0:10:35Look at that!
0:10:35 > 0:10:37Happy days!
0:10:39 > 0:10:42We don't get it in Northumberland that much,
0:10:42 > 0:10:45and I forget about it. And it's salt and creamy,
0:10:45 > 0:10:46oh, it's gorgeous.
0:10:46 > 0:10:48This is Scottish cheese,
0:10:48 > 0:10:51but we're proud to say it's a British cheese as well.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53Seeing how cheese is made
0:10:53 > 0:10:56has inspired us to have a go ourselves.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59Cheese is one of the most versatile foods around
0:10:59 > 0:11:01good in sweet dishes and savoury.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04You can't say that about many other foods.
0:11:04 > 0:11:07So first up in our best of British kitchen,
0:11:07 > 0:11:10we're cooking a sweet cheese dish
0:11:10 > 0:11:12and a speciality of the Yorkshire Dales,
0:11:12 > 0:11:14the Yorkshire curd tart.
0:11:14 > 0:11:16When you do a programme on cheese,
0:11:16 > 0:11:19it would be too cheesy to actually make a cheesecake.
0:11:19 > 0:11:22You can't really ignore it. We've gone one better.
0:11:22 > 0:11:25We've gone into the depths of time. Coming from 1265,
0:11:25 > 0:11:28the Counts of Leicester wrote about cheesy fortart
0:11:28 > 0:11:31and that could have meant what we're going to cook today which is
0:11:31 > 0:11:34the origin of cheesecake, original British cheesecake,
0:11:34 > 0:11:37the Yorkshire curd tart.
0:11:37 > 0:11:39We love it! We love it!
0:11:39 > 0:11:43If Miss Muffet was here, she'd be stood on the tuffet,
0:11:43 > 0:11:45that's all I can say, because this is epic!
0:11:45 > 0:11:47You might have trouble getting curds here.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50One day when there was a dairy on every corner, you'd say,
0:11:50 > 0:11:53"Prithee, Sire, could thou takest meself of a bucket o'curds?"
0:11:53 > 0:11:56And you go back and make your curd tart.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59First off, we're going to show you how to make curds.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01Add the milk to the pan.
0:12:03 > 0:12:06This is whole milk, quite important this.
0:12:06 > 0:12:07The fat stuff.
0:12:07 > 0:12:11- Is there another milk, there, mate?- More milk!
0:12:11 > 0:12:14And we're going to put lemon juice into that milk
0:12:14 > 0:12:17and you know what's going to happen, it's going to curdle!
0:12:17 > 0:12:20You get it? Curds, curdle?
0:12:20 > 0:12:23Samuel Pepys...
0:12:23 > 0:12:26he used to sit in with a barrel of curds and whey.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29Interesting snack.
0:12:29 > 0:12:33Bring this milk gently, and that's key, gently up to a simmer,
0:12:33 > 0:12:36take it off the heat, and soon as that happens,
0:12:36 > 0:12:38Dave is going to put some lemon juice in it.
0:12:38 > 0:12:40Four tablespoons of lemon juice,
0:12:40 > 0:12:44to about a litre and a half of milk.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48This will give us curds, it'll also give us whey as well.
0:12:48 > 0:12:50We're going to chuck the whey away!
0:12:50 > 0:12:53You could always take it to a rail-whey station!
0:12:53 > 0:12:56We're having a WHEYL of a time, aren't we?
0:12:56 > 0:12:59That's lemon juice!
0:12:59 > 0:13:01Just wait for that to come to a simmer now.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07DAVE SINGS
0:13:11 > 0:13:14Nowt much we can do really.
0:13:14 > 0:13:16You're probably as bored now as we are!
0:13:16 > 0:13:18Kingy, let's play
0:13:18 > 0:13:21the alphabet game, but with cheese.
0:13:21 > 0:13:22I hate the alphabet game!
0:13:22 > 0:13:23MASTERMIND THEME
0:13:23 > 0:13:27A is for... Think of a cheese beginning with A...
0:13:27 > 0:13:29Applewood.
0:13:29 > 0:13:32Yes. But is that... I'll let you have applewood. B...
0:13:32 > 0:13:34- B, boursin.- C, cheddar...
0:13:34 > 0:13:36D...
0:13:36 > 0:13:39- dolcelatte...- You can't! That was my go!
0:13:41 > 0:13:42I...
0:13:45 > 0:13:48Let's forget I. Hold on... that's it, we're there!
0:13:48 > 0:13:53To that, add four tablespoons of lemon juice,
0:13:53 > 0:13:54sans le pip,
0:13:54 > 0:13:57one, two,
0:13:57 > 0:14:00three, four.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03- Oh, the milk's going!- And stir.
0:14:03 > 0:14:05Look at that! Look in there, it's happening!
0:14:05 > 0:14:07It's curdled.
0:14:07 > 0:14:11Now, don't stir it too vigorously,
0:14:11 > 0:14:14because you want those curds
0:14:14 > 0:14:18to be as whole as they can.
0:14:18 > 0:14:22You see how the bits are getting a bit bigger?
0:14:22 > 0:14:25'Now pour the curds and whey into the muslin.'
0:14:27 > 0:14:31Let that go through.
0:14:31 > 0:14:34'And leave it to cool for about an hour.'
0:14:34 > 0:14:36T...
0:14:38 > 0:14:39Triangle cheese!
0:14:42 > 0:14:43W...Wensleydale!
0:14:46 > 0:14:50- Z...- Zo, zor...- I don't think there's a cheese beginning with Z.
0:14:50 > 0:14:52Got to be somewhere in the world!
0:14:52 > 0:14:54We could do accompaniments to cheese?
0:14:54 > 0:14:56Apple!
0:14:56 > 0:14:58'Oh God...that's quite enough!
0:14:58 > 0:14:59'Just like Scottish crowdie,
0:14:59 > 0:15:02'the curds are bagged up and left to drain.'
0:15:02 > 0:15:03I wonder...
0:15:05 > 0:15:10- That's it. Now, if you get a piece of string, Kingy.- Right.
0:15:10 > 0:15:14Take that to the fridge and you tie that to one of the shelves,
0:15:14 > 0:15:18suspended over a bowl and leave it overnight.
0:15:18 > 0:15:24And the next day you have a bowlful of whey and a ball of curds.
0:15:24 > 0:15:28- I did one yesterday.- Did you?- Yes. We can start making tarts.
0:15:28 > 0:15:32- Me on pastry as usual. - And I will be on the filling.
0:15:32 > 0:15:34Egg in bowl.
0:15:34 > 0:15:35Give this a bit of a whizz.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41Food processor. Flour goes in.
0:15:41 > 0:15:45Plain, because it's pastry and we don't want a rise on.
0:15:45 > 0:15:47For the pastry, we're using 175 grams of plain flour.
0:15:47 > 0:15:51All I've got in here is butter, caster sugar
0:15:51 > 0:15:53and we want to cream it together
0:15:53 > 0:15:56and then we're going to start to build our little bits up.
0:15:58 > 0:16:02Bring the ingredients together using an electric whisk.
0:16:02 > 0:16:05I'm going to cube the butter into the processor.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09Then give it a whizz until breadcrumbs are formed.
0:16:09 > 0:16:11I'm also, because it's a sweet pastry,
0:16:11 > 0:16:15going to put in two teaspoons of sugar.
0:16:17 > 0:16:18One.
0:16:18 > 0:16:19Two.
0:16:20 > 0:16:23Give this a whizz.
0:16:29 > 0:16:33I add an egg, bit by bit and a bowl of pastry will miraculously appear.
0:16:45 > 0:16:46Now look at that.
0:16:46 > 0:16:48How clean that processor is.
0:16:48 > 0:16:52And all that's left there is a ball of pastry.
0:16:52 > 0:16:55Now this pastry, I put it in the fridge to rest for half an hour
0:16:55 > 0:16:59and I can roll out and make the bed for the tart.
0:16:59 > 0:17:00Now, while Dave's doing that,
0:17:00 > 0:17:05all I'm going to do is very gradually add an egg.
0:17:07 > 0:17:09But do it gradually, yeah?
0:17:09 > 0:17:11And then give it a good whisk after each addition.
0:17:15 > 0:17:18To that I am going to add half a teaspoon of nutmeg.
0:17:18 > 0:17:20Nutmeg's interesting.
0:17:20 > 0:17:22Do you know it will last for up to 10 years
0:17:22 > 0:17:24as long as you don't start grating it.
0:17:25 > 0:17:29Nutmeg need never become a cupboard monster.
0:17:29 > 0:17:31Pastry that has been rested.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36Roll out. To the beaten egg mixture add the zest of half a lemon.
0:17:36 > 0:17:39OK, give that a stir through.
0:17:39 > 0:17:43Then add a heaped tablespoon of dried mixed fruit and stir that in too.
0:17:45 > 0:17:48And then we going to mix in our curd.
0:17:48 > 0:17:51Look at that. Beautiful. Beautiful.
0:17:51 > 0:17:54How many recipes can you say that you've made your own cheese
0:17:54 > 0:17:57when you're doing cheese cookery?
0:17:57 > 0:17:59There is a certain wonderful self-satisfaction
0:17:59 > 0:18:02to this actually, making your own cheese.
0:18:02 > 0:18:05- As you say, it's lovely. - Well it's a bit La Boheme, isn't it?
0:18:05 > 0:18:09I am going to line this plate with my sweet, shortcrust butter pastry.
0:18:09 > 0:18:11It's perfectly easy to handle.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15Put it onto a tin plate.
0:18:15 > 0:18:18You can do it with a china plate or a pot plate.
0:18:18 > 0:18:20I've found with a tin plate, the nice thing is,
0:18:20 > 0:18:24you don't have to grease it and it doesn't get stuck.
0:18:24 > 0:18:28Lift it up in that flamboyant fashion as beloved by grandmothers everywhere.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31And trim the edge off.
0:18:31 > 0:18:34- Right, mate.- I'm nearly ready too.
0:18:36 > 0:18:40That looks a bit plain, so I'm going to do a nice pinch
0:18:40 > 0:18:41and tuck on the edge like this.
0:18:41 > 0:18:46Almost mechanical-looking finish to the side of your pies.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48You know what, it is using your body as a template.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51Now look at that, that's pastry craft for you.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55- Fantastic, mate, fantastic. - Toss your curds in, son.
0:18:55 > 0:18:57What a cheesy mess that looks.
0:18:57 > 0:19:01There's no need to mess with it too much. It'll find its own level.
0:19:01 > 0:19:05Put the curds in the centre of the pastry case.
0:19:05 > 0:19:07There we are. One curd tart.
0:19:07 > 0:19:12Just pop that in the oven, preheated to 160 degree Celsius, for 35
0:19:12 > 0:19:17minutes and then leave it for 30 minutes to cool before serving.
0:19:17 > 0:19:21The curds will rise up and the pastry should be golden.
0:19:21 > 0:19:22# Oh cheesecake
0:19:22 > 0:19:25# Munching on a cheesecake Munching on a cheesecake
0:19:25 > 0:19:28# Cheesecake, oh cheesecake Munching on a cheesecake. #
0:19:28 > 0:19:29Eh up, lad!
0:19:29 > 0:19:34That'll be Yorkshire curd tart ready for getting out of th'oven!
0:19:34 > 0:19:39- Eeh, mother!- Look at that! - By gum.- Look at him, eh.
0:19:42 > 0:19:44- That's rather beautiful, isn't it? - Isn't it?
0:19:44 > 0:19:48We could put it outside like they used to in the old days.
0:19:50 > 0:19:53- Should we?- Go on. Open the door, mate.
0:20:01 > 0:20:04How about diseases and complications?
0:20:04 > 0:20:06I'll start. Arthritis.
0:20:06 > 0:20:08B - Bubonic plague.
0:20:09 > 0:20:10Cholera.
0:20:10 > 0:20:12Diphtheria.
0:20:13 > 0:20:14Impetigo.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19J? Jaundice.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22Let's go and get the curd tart, shall we?
0:20:27 > 0:20:28It's a nice cutter.
0:20:32 > 0:20:37The thing about Yorkshire curd tart is, you get a nice slice out of it.
0:20:37 > 0:20:41No messing about. No leaving half of it behind. Look at that.
0:20:41 > 0:20:45- It's a tidy tart.- It is.
0:20:45 > 0:20:49This is it. This is British cheesecake, this.
0:20:50 > 0:20:54- It'll never catch on.- No. - Nice pastry.- Lovely.
0:20:54 > 0:20:56Nice texture, actually.
0:20:56 > 0:20:59The fruit's plumped up. It's quite grown up, isn't it?
0:20:59 > 0:21:04- Quite an old-fashioned flavour. - That's it. Nutmeg, lemon zest.
0:21:04 > 0:21:06Cheesecake, but real cheesecake.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10That is best of British.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14# Cheesecake, munching on a cheesecake
0:21:14 > 0:21:15There it is.
0:21:15 > 0:21:19The Yorkshire curd tart, a very proper cheesecake.
0:21:19 > 0:21:22It may look fiddly to make, but it's definitely worth it.
0:21:22 > 0:21:25# Cheesecake, gobble gobble, Basie over cheesecake! #
0:21:26 > 0:21:30We're heading back to 1970, to Britain's first celebrity TV chef
0:21:30 > 0:21:35and a somewhat acquired taste, fearsome Fanny Craddock.
0:21:35 > 0:21:38When she first graced our television screens in the '50s,
0:21:38 > 0:21:41British home cooking had become dull.
0:21:41 > 0:21:45But this queen of cuisine inspired millions of housewives
0:21:45 > 0:21:47to be bold and adventurous in the kitchen.
0:21:47 > 0:21:50And when a new entertaining trend, the new cheese and wine party,
0:21:50 > 0:21:54was suddenly all the rage, Fanny was there to guide us
0:21:54 > 0:21:56with her passion and know-how.
0:21:56 > 0:22:01- That is very '70s isn't it? - Beans, pears, whisk.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16- This is the view from our kitchen windows.- "This is the view!"
0:22:16 > 0:22:17It's like Gone With The Wind, isn't it?
0:22:17 > 0:22:19You expect Rhett Butler to come along.
0:22:19 > 0:22:23With the mill stream flowing under the bridges and down to meet the river.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25So, Fanny did very well in her time, didn't she?
0:22:25 > 0:22:28- Didn't she?- We do owe her a lot, joking apart.- We do.
0:22:28 > 0:22:31She did an awful lot for British food.
0:22:31 > 0:22:34Sick of cooking with our faces to the wall, so we've moved
0:22:34 > 0:22:38to the middle of the two rooms, now one, which make up our kitchen.
0:22:38 > 0:22:42Come and have a quick glimpse at some of the others we won't use. Cupboards, masses of them.
0:22:42 > 0:22:45She probably made people think about food.
0:22:45 > 0:22:49Remember, you're coming out of the war and it was all a bit indulgent
0:22:49 > 0:22:55and she was on her own protesting against processed food at the time.
0:22:55 > 0:23:00And it's called Creme de Camembert, or Camembert Cream.
0:23:00 > 0:23:02Once again, it's not difficult.
0:23:02 > 0:23:05Here is one I have taken out of its classic box.
0:23:05 > 0:23:08And what you must do before you begin is to scrape off the chalk.
0:23:08 > 0:23:11- That Camembert's very hard. - Isn't it?
0:23:11 > 0:23:13But here I have got one I put in 24 hours ago,
0:23:13 > 0:23:15practically on the point of collapse.
0:23:15 > 0:23:19- Has she soaked it? - Yeah, soaked it in wine.
0:23:19 > 0:23:22This has been soaking for 24 hours in a covering,
0:23:22 > 0:23:24just a mean covering of inexpensive dry white wine.
0:23:24 > 0:23:27Cut it up roughly with a knife.
0:23:27 > 0:23:31That was a phenomenon though, the cheese and wine party.
0:23:31 > 0:23:33"Just come round for cheese and wine". It's quite nice.
0:23:33 > 0:23:37You could do a great one now with all the wonderful cheese we have.
0:23:37 > 0:23:39- It would be fantastic. - And the wine is just great.
0:23:39 > 0:23:43Four ounces of butter, softened,
0:23:43 > 0:23:46so you're not going to work for hours, so I hope this is.
0:23:46 > 0:23:47So she's got the wine
0:23:47 > 0:23:50that's been marinating this dollop of Camembert.
0:23:50 > 0:23:52And then she's just put half a packet of butter in it.
0:23:53 > 0:23:55And she's whisking it.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59I'm getting short of time, so I'm going to be extravagant.
0:23:59 > 0:24:02It's like a posh cheese spread.
0:24:02 > 0:24:05Now just dump it in the middle of the dish,
0:24:05 > 0:24:09take a fork and pull it up into a rough peak.
0:24:09 > 0:24:12She's didn't give much to presentation, did she?
0:24:12 > 0:24:16Or maybe that is so it would be accessible, I don't know.
0:24:16 > 0:24:19Pull it right up. That's better.
0:24:19 > 0:24:24- Crumbs.- It's like Close Encounters, where he makes the thing out of potatoes.
0:24:24 > 0:24:27- With a pretzel on the top. - A pretzel on the top?
0:24:27 > 0:24:30You're short of time, but you should have your frock on by now.
0:24:30 > 0:24:33Maybe her lack of presentation thing was to make people
0:24:33 > 0:24:36feel that they could do it better at home.
0:24:36 > 0:24:39It is about being accessible and empowering people to do something.
0:24:39 > 0:24:44And here the little quick emergency version of the cheese,
0:24:44 > 0:24:46Camembert cheese cream,
0:24:46 > 0:24:49- and Bob's your uncle. You can serve that.- Like that?
0:24:50 > 0:24:53You cannot serve it like that, Fanny. Howay...
0:24:53 > 0:24:57It has been lovely being back with you. Thank you so much for watching.
0:24:57 > 0:25:00And I hope I have the pleasure of having with you with me next week.
0:25:02 > 0:25:05Thankfully, since the '70s
0:25:05 > 0:25:10the range and quality of cheeses on offer in Britain has vastly improved.
0:25:10 > 0:25:13Today, more and more of us are enjoying and appreciating
0:25:13 > 0:25:17these fantastic and often unique dairy delicacies.
0:25:17 > 0:25:21British cheeses are now big business, with specialist cheesemakers
0:25:21 > 0:25:23and big brands competing at the prestigious
0:25:23 > 0:25:26International Cheese Awards in Nantwich.
0:25:26 > 0:25:30The biggest of its kind in the world.
0:25:30 > 0:25:33And working hard to achieve an award in this year's show
0:25:33 > 0:25:37are the Applebys, our Best of British food heroes.
0:25:37 > 0:25:42Three generations of this family have dedicated their lives to one thing.
0:25:42 > 0:25:45Cheese!
0:25:45 > 0:25:48These dairy farmers are still making their cheese
0:25:48 > 0:25:52the old-fashioned way, by hand, using traditional methods.
0:25:53 > 0:25:56And they are one of the few remaining producers to use a key ingredient,
0:25:56 > 0:25:58unpasteurised milk.
0:25:58 > 0:26:01What we feed the cows is what's in the milk.
0:26:01 > 0:26:03It is everything we do, basically.
0:26:03 > 0:26:07And if we pasteurised, we would kill all that out
0:26:07 > 0:26:09and it would be like everybody else's milk.
0:26:09 > 0:26:12It is just a standard product once you pasteurise.
0:26:13 > 0:26:16In the '60s Edward Appleby's parents
0:26:16 > 0:26:19made a stand against the industrialisation of cheese-making.
0:26:19 > 0:26:23My father was a bit of a stickler when it got to the '60s
0:26:23 > 0:26:27and supermarkets came in and they were trying to get everybody
0:26:27 > 0:26:31to wax the cheese and make it all uniform and squares.
0:26:31 > 0:26:33He just wasn't going to have that.
0:26:33 > 0:26:37He said no, "Cheese is a natural thing and it breathes," so he said,
0:26:37 > 0:26:41"I'm sticking to the cloth wrap and I'm sticking to unpasteurised."
0:26:42 > 0:26:4520 years later, Edward, and wife Christine,
0:26:45 > 0:26:50took over the family business and now their son Paul is involved.
0:26:56 > 0:27:00My grandmother and my grandfather were very adamant
0:27:00 > 0:27:02that they weren't going to change anything.
0:27:02 > 0:27:06And my parents who carried it on and found a market for it, and I do feel
0:27:06 > 0:27:10that it is kind of my duty to carry that on, apart from the fact
0:27:10 > 0:27:13it's a great pleasure of mine and a passion,
0:27:13 > 0:27:15but I do feel a sense of duty.
0:27:19 > 0:27:23The dairy is something that I pretty much look after these days.
0:27:23 > 0:27:26In terms of its importance to the cheese, it is paramount, really.
0:27:26 > 0:27:28We can control what they're fed
0:27:28 > 0:27:31so the milk is consistent all year round.
0:27:31 > 0:27:35Comfortable cows make good milk and produce good cheese, we hope.
0:27:35 > 0:27:40The Applebys refuse to adopt modern mass-production techniques,
0:27:40 > 0:27:43insisting that the best cheese takes time and experience.
0:27:44 > 0:27:46For the head cheesemaker, Gary Gray,
0:27:46 > 0:27:49it's a skill that requires intuition.
0:27:49 > 0:27:52You can tell something's not right when you put your hand in.
0:27:52 > 0:27:54It might be the basic way of making cheese
0:27:54 > 0:27:57but it's one of the hardest as well.
0:27:57 > 0:28:01You want yesterday's cheese to be the same as today and tomorrow's the same as yesterday's.
0:28:03 > 0:28:04The seasons give us a different
0:28:04 > 0:28:07cheese in terms of the pastures that they're on.
0:28:07 > 0:28:09The cows are coming in to take silage and maize,
0:28:09 > 0:28:12or going out to take fresh spring grass.
0:28:12 > 0:28:14He can feel it in the curd
0:28:14 > 0:28:16when he puts his hand in the vat.
0:28:16 > 0:28:18This is the great thing about hand-made cheese.
0:28:18 > 0:28:21You can make those wonderful, fine adjustments
0:28:21 > 0:28:23that just make the difference really.
0:28:30 > 0:28:34I've been here 26 years and nothing's changed.
0:28:35 > 0:28:38It is a team effort, it's not just me.
0:28:38 > 0:28:40I wish it was, then I'd get more praise.
0:28:44 > 0:28:47Once the whey is drained off, the curd is cut into blocks.
0:28:47 > 0:28:50The key thing about what we're doing now
0:28:50 > 0:28:52is to get the moisture out.
0:28:52 > 0:28:54Salt is added and mushed into the curd.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03Then it goes into a mould, then into an old-fashioned cheese press.
0:29:05 > 0:29:09After 12 hours, it is turned out of the mould and ironed.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12Ironing cheese? I don't even iron my shirts.
0:29:12 > 0:29:15It's to seal it and prevent mould growth, Si.
0:29:15 > 0:29:18The cheese is then wrapped in cloth and stored in
0:29:18 > 0:29:21maturing sheds for several weeks before it's ready to eat.
0:29:24 > 0:29:27OK, Sarah, I think we'll start with 25th May,
0:29:27 > 0:29:30which I think is the youngest in here today.
0:29:30 > 0:29:32The Applebys have entered their cheese
0:29:32 > 0:29:34into the International Cheese Awards.
0:29:34 > 0:29:38In charge of selecting a contender is head taster Christine.
0:29:39 > 0:29:43What we're looking for when we're looking for a show cheese,
0:29:43 > 0:29:45or any cheese, for that matter,
0:29:45 > 0:29:48we're looking for a nice, bright cheese.
0:29:48 > 0:29:52The most important thing is to just rub it in your hand
0:29:52 > 0:29:56and you can see the nice little fine bits of Cheshire crumb.
0:29:56 > 0:30:00That is how Cheshire cheese should be, really crumbly, just like that.
0:30:00 > 0:30:02That's what's special about Cheshire cheese.
0:30:02 > 0:30:06They're hoping that their historic, handmade Cheshire can compete
0:30:06 > 0:30:09with the big cheeses of the modern dairy industry.
0:30:09 > 0:30:14I'm always optimistic. One day we'll get the big one.
0:30:14 > 0:30:19My father won it three or four times back in the '70s and '80s.
0:30:19 > 0:30:23It's a huge show and we are a small fish in a big pond.
0:30:25 > 0:30:27And it's not easy, we accept it's not easy,
0:30:27 > 0:30:31but if you believe in your product, then you have to present it
0:30:31 > 0:30:32alongside the competition,
0:30:32 > 0:30:35and hopefully you'll win through in the end.
0:30:35 > 0:30:37We are the last that are doing it like this,
0:30:37 > 0:30:40and to think it was a great industry at one time,
0:30:40 > 0:30:43and we're what's left, no, we have to keep going.
0:30:44 > 0:30:45It's a must.
0:30:45 > 0:30:48And when I see the grandchildren and how
0:30:48 > 0:30:54they love coming out to taste it with us, it's going to keep going.
0:30:54 > 0:30:57It's always hard to choose them, isn't it, Sam?
0:30:57 > 0:30:59They're always so good, aren't they?
0:31:07 > 0:31:12The event, in its 114th year, is the Olympics of the cheese world.
0:31:12 > 0:31:16Which each cheese vying to be crowned the show's Supreme Champion.
0:31:22 > 0:31:25We've spent our time selecting the right cheese, haven't we, Gary?
0:31:25 > 0:31:28It's in there and it's up to the judges now.
0:31:28 > 0:31:31- A case of hoping for the best. - Hoping for the best, yes.
0:31:31 > 0:31:33Hopefully, we've got a good chance.
0:31:35 > 0:31:38The Applebys aren't alone, though.
0:31:38 > 0:31:41Expert judges will taste over 3,500 cheeses.
0:31:41 > 0:31:43That's a lot of cheese to be competing with.
0:31:43 > 0:31:45That's a lot of cheese to eat.
0:31:46 > 0:31:50There's nothing more the Applebys can do now, Dave.
0:31:51 > 0:31:54Christine and Edward join the other anxious cheesemakers
0:31:54 > 0:31:58at the notice board to see how they've done.
0:32:04 > 0:32:06And it's good news!
0:32:06 > 0:32:08They've won two gold medals
0:32:08 > 0:32:13and the title of Champion Farmhouse Cheshire Cheese.
0:32:13 > 0:32:15- Two golds!- Two golds! How about that, Sam?
0:32:15 > 0:32:18That doesn't happen many times in a lifetime.
0:32:20 > 0:32:22I think I might have a drink tonight.
0:32:23 > 0:32:27It's really good. Honestly, really good. I am surprised.
0:32:27 > 0:32:30Many years and we've never won anything.
0:32:30 > 0:32:32This year seems to be a good year.
0:32:34 > 0:32:37My grandmother and my grandfather were probably the last
0:32:37 > 0:32:40to take a good prize away from here, and it's very special...
0:32:41 > 0:32:44..That we can do it today.
0:32:44 > 0:32:48I hope my little boy might have a chance to do it again.
0:32:49 > 0:32:52Thanks to families like the Applebys,
0:32:52 > 0:32:55British farmhouse cheese is doing better than ever.
0:32:55 > 0:33:00And their traditional Cheshire truly is a champion cheese.
0:33:00 > 0:33:03Next up in our Best of British kitchen,
0:33:03 > 0:33:06we are cooking up a goat's cheese recipe.
0:33:06 > 0:33:09Yep, it's not just cows we have to thank for great cheese.
0:33:09 > 0:33:13Goats, sheep, buffalo, and even the odd donkey contribute too.
0:33:14 > 0:33:18There is no simpler meal than cheese.
0:33:18 > 0:33:20But, if you really want to push the boat out,
0:33:20 > 0:33:27what better way to celebrate great British cheeses than a souffle?
0:33:27 > 0:33:31- The souffle.- It's like the Hyacinth Bucket of the Cheese Cookery world.
0:33:31 > 0:33:33The French may have invented the souffle,
0:33:33 > 0:33:37but we have been cooking souffle since the early 19th century,
0:33:37 > 0:33:41and there is no souffle better than ours, which is...
0:33:41 > 0:33:44The goat's cheese and chive souffle!
0:33:44 > 0:33:48The thing is, I think chefs over the years have encouraged people
0:33:48 > 0:33:51to think it is unobtainable, it's difficult.
0:33:51 > 0:33:52It's not!
0:33:52 > 0:33:55It's not, no. And you know what? I will show you why it's not.
0:33:55 > 0:33:57You know why? Because it's not that hard.
0:33:57 > 0:34:02And souffles generally starts with infused milk.
0:34:02 > 0:34:03Milk that's infused,
0:34:03 > 0:34:06and what we do is push certain flavours through the milk
0:34:06 > 0:34:12that pervades the whole entity of our risen Vesuvial mass.
0:34:12 > 0:34:14Oh, yes. The souffle.
0:34:14 > 0:34:17Milk goes in a pan. We bring this to a boil.
0:34:18 > 0:34:22- I'll get a small onion.- And we're going to make a little bouquet.
0:34:22 > 0:34:28A little bunch of thyme to infuse the milk with onion, thyme and bay.
0:34:28 > 0:34:33I mean, the French were making souffles as early as
0:34:33 > 0:34:37the late 18th century, and that great French cook, Beauvilliers,
0:34:37 > 0:34:39gave us his recipe for souffles.
0:34:39 > 0:34:41I wish I was called Dave Beauvilliers.
0:34:41 > 0:34:44So much more romantic, isn't it?
0:34:44 > 0:34:47Dave Beauvilliers would be a racing driver.
0:34:47 > 0:34:49Thyme, in milk to infuse.
0:34:49 > 0:34:51Onion.
0:34:51 > 0:34:53A leaf of bay.
0:34:53 > 0:34:57Look in there. Boilio de milkio!
0:34:57 > 0:35:02Bring the milk to a gentle simmer and remove from the heat.
0:35:02 > 0:35:05And just leave that for 15 minutes
0:35:05 > 0:35:07and you will have a pan of infused milk to make your sauce.
0:35:07 > 0:35:09Shall we have a sit down?
0:35:21 > 0:35:24Well, I think that has experienced the infusion transfusion.
0:35:24 > 0:35:27- It probably has. - I shall strain it off.- Marvellous.
0:35:28 > 0:35:31Give us this little pan here.
0:35:36 > 0:35:43Now, we are so confident that our souffle is going to rise
0:35:43 > 0:35:46it's going to go beyond the dish, the souffle dish.
0:35:46 > 0:35:49It's going to be massive. We want it up to there.
0:35:49 > 0:35:51What I have done is built an extension to the dish.
0:35:51 > 0:35:55It's just a piece of greaseproof paper or baking parchment
0:35:55 > 0:35:57folded over and tied round,
0:35:57 > 0:36:00which has effectively given us a souffle dish like a chimney.
0:36:00 > 0:36:04Now I've really got to liberally cover that with butter.
0:36:04 > 0:36:07While Dave's doing that I'll make the cheese sauce.
0:36:07 > 0:36:12Same thing as usual, we start with a roux and it is going to be thicker.
0:36:12 > 0:36:16- It's a special white sauce. - It is, it's beautiful.
0:36:16 > 0:36:21- British goat's cheese - that is a treasure, isn't it?- Look at that.
0:36:21 > 0:36:23Absolutely gorgeous.
0:36:23 > 0:36:25Look at the colour of it. It's beautiful.
0:36:25 > 0:36:28It is like a bleached polar bear. You cannot get any whiter or purer.
0:36:28 > 0:36:30You know?
0:36:32 > 0:36:35Lots of butter. The souffle is a dish with pretence.
0:36:37 > 0:36:41I cannot even say souffle. Even I go French on a "souffle".
0:36:44 > 0:36:48Next, add 50 grams of plain flour to the melted butter.
0:36:50 > 0:36:54Then separate four eggs and leave to one side.
0:36:55 > 0:36:58Right, what I'm going to start to do now is
0:36:58 > 0:37:01add this beautiful infused milk to the roux.
0:37:04 > 0:37:06Look at that.
0:37:06 > 0:37:08That's what we mean when we mean thick.
0:37:08 > 0:37:11You could put windows in with that, couldn't you?
0:37:11 > 0:37:15By heck, this cheese is good. It's a useful creature, the goat.
0:37:15 > 0:37:18It's been around since Neolithic times,
0:37:18 > 0:37:21and it's the most eaten meat on the planet.
0:37:21 > 0:37:24I don't know why it's never really caught on in Britain.
0:37:24 > 0:37:26- Because, by crikey, it's tasty.- It is.
0:37:26 > 0:37:29- You can eat its meat, it produces milk.- It's no good at dancing.
0:37:29 > 0:37:33No, that's true. You cannot dance with it at a dinner party.
0:37:33 > 0:37:36- And they do smell, goats.- They do. - They do, they honk.
0:37:36 > 0:37:41An interesting thing, a goat can die of loneliness.
0:37:41 > 0:37:42How mad is that?
0:37:42 > 0:37:44Because they're a herd creature,
0:37:44 > 0:37:47so if you have a goat and you only got one of them
0:37:47 > 0:37:49and he's looking a bit miserable,
0:37:49 > 0:37:51buy another one, because they need a friend.
0:37:51 > 0:37:59Put half of this cheese into here to make an even thicker sauce.
0:37:59 > 0:38:03Quite how, I'm not sure. We'll put it in there like that.
0:38:04 > 0:38:08I can't resist, I've got to have a taste of this wonderful cheese.
0:38:13 > 0:38:17People say goat's cheese and I think they get confused with Greek feta.
0:38:17 > 0:38:20They think it's going to be salty and crumbly,
0:38:20 > 0:38:22but this just melts in your mouth.
0:38:22 > 0:38:23Beautiful.
0:38:23 > 0:38:27Right, mate, we're ready for them eggs.
0:38:27 > 0:38:32Now, take it off the heat and just add these bit by bit.
0:38:32 > 0:38:33And whisk like Billy-O.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37- Who is Billy-O? I wonder.- Look at that.
0:38:37 > 0:38:41It's turned these beautiful slightly golden colour and lustre
0:38:41 > 0:38:43with those egg yolks.
0:38:43 > 0:38:45Now, remember, it is off the heat,
0:38:45 > 0:38:47we do not want to cook this any more at this point.
0:38:47 > 0:38:49Chives.
0:38:49 > 0:38:53Chives are wonderful. And chive is the smallest member of the onion family.
0:38:53 > 0:38:55Again, it's a food pairing,
0:38:55 > 0:38:58a marriage with the goat's cheese made in heaven.
0:39:00 > 0:39:04- And don't be shy with the chives. - Oh no, absolutely.
0:39:08 > 0:39:12Just whisk them into the cheese mixture.
0:39:13 > 0:39:17It's funny. It's so heavy, you think, that's never going to rise.
0:39:17 > 0:39:19It is.
0:39:21 > 0:39:24Next whisk the egg whites into stiff peaks
0:39:24 > 0:39:27and add a pinch of salt, as this will help to furl the eggs.
0:39:31 > 0:39:33I think we are there. Don't overdo it.
0:39:33 > 0:39:36It could go dry and then it will turn back to liquid.
0:39:36 > 0:39:39Now, is it firm enough to stay in the bowl without falling out?
0:39:39 > 0:39:42Yes, it is!
0:39:42 > 0:39:43That's perfect.
0:39:43 > 0:39:47Housewives all over the country, children, and men who cook,
0:39:47 > 0:39:49have a go, it's a laugh.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52Now, we put one spoonful in, and you can mix it in quite roughly.
0:39:52 > 0:39:56That's just to get it moving, because that's quite stiff.
0:39:56 > 0:40:01Now, into that, we fold in the remaining goat's cheese.
0:40:01 > 0:40:03This is the chunks.
0:40:03 > 0:40:05Remember, the rest of the cheese is in a sauce
0:40:05 > 0:40:09but we want little cheesy, chunky bits to come through the souffle.
0:40:09 > 0:40:12And then that we are going to fold the egg whites in.
0:40:12 > 0:40:16Delia Smith always says you always fold with a metal implement.
0:40:16 > 0:40:18Why? Because it has a thin edge.
0:40:18 > 0:40:22The thin edge... And you fold with a cutting movement.
0:40:22 > 0:40:25The cutting movement, you're folding, not mixing.
0:40:25 > 0:40:29We want to lose as little of this volume as we can.
0:40:29 > 0:40:31So now we start the fold.
0:40:31 > 0:40:35- So, look, like that. - It's a fine balance, isn't it?
0:40:35 > 0:40:37And just be patient with it. Don't be hasty.
0:40:40 > 0:40:43- I think that's pretty even, isn't it?- No, it won't get no better.
0:40:44 > 0:40:47Finally, feel the pre-prepared buttered dish with the mixture.
0:40:51 > 0:40:55Just for that little bit extra, we're going to sprinkle in Parmesan cheese.
0:40:55 > 0:40:58It's important the Parmesan cheese doesn't touch the brown paper.
0:40:58 > 0:41:02If it does, it will stick, so keep the Parmesan cheese
0:41:02 > 0:41:04around the centre, and if it sticks,
0:41:04 > 0:41:06it'll stop the souffle rising.
0:41:06 > 0:41:10And put this into a preheated oven at 200 Celsius in a fan oven,
0:41:10 > 0:41:12220 degrees in a non.
0:41:12 > 0:41:17And put it in there for half an hour.
0:41:17 > 0:41:21Now, you shut the door and leave it.
0:41:27 > 0:41:31Ho-ho-ho! You know what I said about it rising? We weren't kidding you.
0:41:31 > 0:41:36Look at that. That's a souffle. Go on, Kingy.
0:41:36 > 0:41:40With all the quality of a provincial mayoress, cut the string.
0:41:40 > 0:41:43We declare this souffle open.
0:41:43 > 0:41:46- Now, look at that.- Oh, man!
0:41:46 > 0:41:49- What a beautiful, lovely thing. - That is beautiful, isn't it?
0:41:51 > 0:41:54But inside it's just going to wobble.
0:41:54 > 0:41:55Are we ready?
0:42:00 > 0:42:01That's a souffle.
0:42:04 > 0:42:08Look at it, cooked on the outside and just cooked so in the middle.
0:42:08 > 0:42:12- I guarantee a taste of paradise. - Great.
0:42:12 > 0:42:17But, you know, this is cheese, but its cheese with its best suit on.
0:42:17 > 0:42:19- It even makes you think posh, doesn't it?- It does.
0:42:21 > 0:42:25- It's hot.- It makes every night an occasion, doesn't it?
0:42:25 > 0:42:30- Now, there we have it.- There's nowt cheesy about this.- No.
0:42:30 > 0:42:34This dish is best served with a frilly green salad
0:42:34 > 0:42:36dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette.
0:42:36 > 0:42:40Just look at that golden mountain of fluffiness.
0:42:42 > 0:42:45Cheese is undoubtedly one of the best man-made things in the world.
0:42:45 > 0:42:49From the hard cheeses of Cheshire to the soft curds of the Crowdie.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51Throughout the length and breadth of the British Isles
0:42:51 > 0:42:54there's a native cheese to suit all tastes.
0:42:54 > 0:42:57Truly worthy of our admiration.
0:42:57 > 0:43:00And to find out how to cook the recipes in today's show,
0:43:00 > 0:43:04visit:
0:43:04 > 0:43:08to discover some amazing facts about the history of food.
0:43:38 > 0:43:40Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:43:40 > 0:43:42E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk