0:00:02 > 0:00:05We believe that Britain has the best food in the world!
0:00:07 > 0:00:11'Our glorious country boasts fantastic ingredients...'
0:00:11 > 0:00:13Start eating it, will you?
0:00:14 > 0:00:16'It's home to amazing producers...'
0:00:16 > 0:00:19- My goodness gracious, that is epic. - Isn't it?
0:00:21 > 0:00:23'..and innovative chefs.
0:00:23 > 0:00:26'But our islands also have a fascinating food history.'
0:00:26 > 0:00:33The fish and chip shops of South Wales are running out of chips.
0:00:35 > 0:00:37'And in this series
0:00:37 > 0:00:40'we're uncovering revealing stories of our rich culinary past.'
0:00:41 > 0:00:44Now, there is food history on a plate.
0:00:44 > 0:00:48'As well as meeting our nation's food heroes who are keeping
0:00:48 > 0:00:50'this heritage alive!'
0:00:50 > 0:00:55Let them enjoy themselves. It's a short life, let's make it a happy one, like they always have had.
0:00:55 > 0:01:01'And of course we'll be cooking up a load of dishes that reveal our foodie evolution.'
0:01:03 > 0:01:06Spring, summer, autumn or winter. It's brilliant.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11BOTH: Quite simply... The Best of British!
0:01:30 > 0:01:34The 1960s were all about flower power, free love and being cool.
0:01:34 > 0:01:37As the saying goes, if you remember the '60s,
0:01:37 > 0:01:39you probably weren't there!
0:01:39 > 0:01:42Wow, man. I must have had a far-out decade, dude.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46- I can't remember a thing. - You were only three!
0:01:46 > 0:01:49But alongside the cultural revolution there was
0:01:49 > 0:01:54the first flames and embers of a pretty far-out foodie revolution.
0:01:54 > 0:01:58Wow! The optimism of the decade overflowed on to our plates.
0:01:58 > 0:02:01You know, with improved incomes, migration and the rise of
0:02:01 > 0:02:06the supermarket opening up a whole new world of taste and flavours.
0:02:06 > 0:02:10It was a fab, exciting time for food lovers,
0:02:10 > 0:02:15and this show is a celebration of all of it. Oh, groovy!
0:02:15 > 0:02:20- People actually didn't say that in the '60s.- Did they not?- Well, they didn't in Barrow and Furness!
0:02:25 > 0:02:30Yes, pop pickers, the 1960s was far out when it came to fashion,
0:02:30 > 0:02:33music, and having a bit of brass in your pocket.
0:02:33 > 0:02:35But at the beginning of the decade
0:02:35 > 0:02:39what we ate was more Coronation Street than Carnaby Street!
0:02:42 > 0:02:46'But thanks to some gastronauts from overseas...'
0:02:46 > 0:02:48Oh, look at that!
0:02:51 > 0:02:53'And closer to home...'
0:02:53 > 0:02:55Everything in life is so easy when you know the way.
0:02:55 > 0:02:57'We entered a brave new world.'
0:02:59 > 0:03:01# Fire! Do-do, you're gonna burn! #
0:03:01 > 0:03:05'As they fired up our appetites for new and exciting food.'
0:03:12 > 0:03:15London Town was at the heart of the swinging '60s scene
0:03:15 > 0:03:17and that's where we're heading to first.
0:03:19 > 0:03:24In the UK, we are blessed with some of the finest Italian restaurants to be found anywhere in the world!
0:03:24 > 0:03:28- Well, other than Italy, you know. - Well, of course other than Italy!
0:03:28 > 0:03:31But of course nowadays we're familiar with authentic
0:03:31 > 0:03:35Italian ingredients, like Parmesan cheese, olive oil and risotto rice.
0:03:35 > 0:03:37But it hasn't always been like that!
0:03:37 > 0:03:40The swinging '60s saw the rise of the Italian restaurant,
0:03:40 > 0:03:44and the beginning of our love affair with great Italian food.
0:03:44 > 0:03:47But it wasn't just the food on the plate that captured our imagination.
0:03:47 > 0:03:49It was the atmosphere of these lively,
0:03:49 > 0:03:53relaxed restaurants that ushered in a new approach to eating out.
0:03:53 > 0:03:56And we're here to meet the man who was at the start of it all!
0:04:00 > 0:04:06Post-war dining out was an austere affair of minding your "Ps and Qs" and dressing like a penguin.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12But the freedom of the '60s saw the rise of the trattoria,
0:04:12 > 0:04:15relaxed restaurants with beautifully cooked Italian food -
0:04:15 > 0:04:17like-a Mamma used to make!
0:04:18 > 0:04:21And leading this revolution against our dinnertime doldrums was
0:04:21 > 0:04:25the restaurateur Alvaro Maccioni.
0:04:27 > 0:04:32Alvaro, you know when you first arrived in England and in London...
0:04:32 > 0:04:34- Yeah. - What was the food scene like then?
0:04:34 > 0:04:41The food was like coming in another planet. As far as food is concerned.
0:04:41 > 0:04:47I could not afford, obviously, to go to the Savoy or whatever,
0:04:47 > 0:04:51so there was nothing for me to eat.
0:04:51 > 0:04:56But then, obviously, there was the idea
0:04:56 > 0:05:00of introducing the trattoria.
0:05:00 > 0:05:04In those days, it was very difficult to run an Italian restaurant.
0:05:04 > 0:05:08Because most of the material was not available.
0:05:08 > 0:05:13First thing I asked, where do I buy olive oil? "Oh, olive oil?"
0:05:13 > 0:05:20"Let me think. Yes, the chemist." The chemist. Yeah. All right.
0:05:20 > 0:05:26Go into the chemist. "Excuse me, madam, could I have a bottle of olive oil?
0:05:26 > 0:05:28"Certainly." She disappears,
0:05:28 > 0:05:31she comes back with a little bottle like this, that big.
0:05:31 > 0:05:36I said, "No, I want a litre, big one."
0:05:36 > 0:05:38"A litre? What do you want to do?"
0:05:38 > 0:05:43"I'll cook." "No, this is not for cooking. Olive oil is a laxative."
0:05:46 > 0:05:52Before long, Alvaro's reputation exploded like a culinary Vesuvius,
0:05:52 > 0:05:55and he found himself running an empire of 18 restaurants
0:05:55 > 0:05:59brimming with actors, royalty, rock stars...
0:05:59 > 0:06:01and even James Bond!
0:06:01 > 0:06:04It didn't take long for the public, and indeed some of the biggest
0:06:04 > 0:06:08- stars in the world, to discover your restaurant, did it?- Absolutely not.
0:06:08 > 0:06:12I mean, when I opened my first restaurant, after a week
0:06:12 > 0:06:19- Sammy Davis Jr, Princess Margaret were in my restaurant.- After a week? - After one single week.
0:06:19 > 0:06:23I went home and literally I was crying.
0:06:23 > 0:06:26But it hasn't all been plain sailing.
0:06:26 > 0:06:30As you see, the way I speak... I never smoked in my life,
0:06:30 > 0:06:33yet I discovered I had cancer of the throat.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37They removed my voice box completely.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40But when they tried to do the operation,
0:06:40 > 0:06:44they told me that there was no chance for me to stay alive.
0:06:44 > 0:06:47And I said to them, "Never mind."
0:06:47 > 0:06:51The doctor looked at me and said, "What do you mean, never mind?"
0:06:51 > 0:06:55"I've had the most wonderful life you can imagine."
0:06:57 > 0:07:02Alvaro now runs La Famiglia, in World's End, Chelsea,
0:07:02 > 0:07:05where he still serves some of the same dishes that
0:07:05 > 0:07:08he introduced to our shores nearly 50 years ago.
0:07:08 > 0:07:11He's going to show us one of the most popular,
0:07:11 > 0:07:15pollo sorpresi - chicken Kiev, Italian-style.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19So, Alvaro, would you say that this is the signature dish of the '60s?
0:07:19 > 0:07:21This was absolutely the signature,
0:07:21 > 0:07:26every restaurant in the '60s had to do this. They had it on the menu.
0:07:26 > 0:07:31I cooked for about 300 people a day,
0:07:31 > 0:07:35- we would sell about 100-150.- Wow!
0:07:35 > 0:07:38This was the most popular dish you could have.
0:07:38 > 0:07:43For this amazing chicken Kiev, a supreme is flattened.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49Garlic and herb butter is then added to the centre of the breast
0:07:49 > 0:07:54and the mini fillet used to seal and create a chicken torpedo.
0:07:57 > 0:08:01The whole thing is then rolled in flour,
0:08:01 > 0:08:05then egg and finally breadcrumbs.
0:08:07 > 0:08:09There it is. There you are.
0:08:09 > 0:08:13- How long would you cook that for? - Seven minutes.
0:08:13 > 0:08:17You lift it up and wait for one minute.
0:08:17 > 0:08:21Then you dip it in for another six minutes.
0:08:21 > 0:08:25Lift it up, wait one minute and serve it.
0:08:27 > 0:08:30Perfection, perfection!
0:08:31 > 0:08:36- And there's your surprise! - Look at that!
0:08:37 > 0:08:39Yes.
0:08:42 > 0:08:44Fantastic!
0:08:45 > 0:08:49- That is perfectly cooked. - It's lovely.
0:08:49 > 0:08:53Were there any particularly famous guests that loved this dish?
0:08:53 > 0:08:58- Frank Sinatra came in.- Frank Sinatra?- 80. Ordered 80 of this.
0:08:58 > 0:09:05- No!- 80!- 80?- 80. We were absolutely up here!
0:09:07 > 0:09:09Mamma mia! What a treat-o!
0:09:11 > 0:09:15Alvaro's food is so good that his customers from the '60s are still eating here.
0:09:17 > 0:09:21Like Jimmy Tarbuck and legendary photographer Terry O'Neil.
0:09:23 > 0:09:27When you first came to Alvaro's, was the food very new, very fresh?
0:09:27 > 0:09:30Oh, yeah, I was used to eating steak and chips and fish and chips
0:09:30 > 0:09:32and all that type of stuff.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36Mozzarella and Parma ham, I mean, I thought was fantastic.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39It was just fabulous food.
0:09:39 > 0:09:43Go back to '62, '63, when this guy has opened.
0:09:43 > 0:09:46It was an adventure to try this food.
0:09:46 > 0:09:49You know when you were a kid and your mother would put food...
0:09:49 > 0:09:52and you'd go, "I don't like that." You'd never tasted it.
0:09:52 > 0:09:54Down here, you tasted it and went, "Dear God,
0:09:54 > 0:09:58"what is that?" It was like an explosion and it was wonderful.
0:09:58 > 0:10:00Everyone was really friendly to you
0:10:00 > 0:10:03and they'd bring you all this food which I'd never even eaten,
0:10:03 > 0:10:05so I was eating all this food and falling in love with it.
0:10:05 > 0:10:09There are now over 5,000 Italian restaurants in Britain,
0:10:09 > 0:10:13but what's next for the man that started it all?
0:10:13 > 0:10:17Lots of people ask me, when are you going to retire?
0:10:17 > 0:10:21But I told them, you cannot retire from your hobby. This is my hobby.
0:10:21 > 0:10:25This is my life. If you ask me to do anything else but this, I am lost.
0:10:26 > 0:10:31So next time you're tucking in to a quattro stagioni...
0:10:31 > 0:10:34Or a spaghetti carbonara, you know who to thank.
0:10:39 > 0:10:44Before the Italians started to make their mark on the English restaurant scene in the '60s...
0:10:44 > 0:10:49We Brits had already fallen head over heels in love with Continental food.
0:10:49 > 0:10:53But it was far more of a French affair.
0:10:53 > 0:10:58And there was one dish that graced the tables of all the poshest restaurants.
0:10:58 > 0:11:01Steak Diane oooh, je t'aime.
0:11:01 > 0:11:05Succulent British steak cooked with a delicious creamy sauce.
0:11:08 > 0:11:12There is nothing that reflects the glamour
0:11:12 > 0:11:18and raciness of the 1960s other than the Steak Diane.
0:11:18 > 0:11:21What a way to set aside the austerity of World War Two,
0:11:21 > 0:11:26to eat food you could have only dreamed about while on rations.
0:11:26 > 0:11:27It's true, it's true.
0:11:27 > 0:11:30And you know, all the hip '60s restaurants loved this,
0:11:30 > 0:11:32setting fire to stuff, flambeing.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35We start off, and there is a Franco-English vibe going on,
0:11:35 > 0:11:38even with the accompaniments - taters and garlic.
0:11:38 > 0:11:43- I'll get on with the saute, you get to rub the meat.- Thanks!
0:11:43 > 0:11:45Terrifico-co!
0:11:48 > 0:11:51Slice the fillet steak to create four generous portions.
0:11:51 > 0:11:55You don't want to scrimp on a Steak Diane.
0:11:55 > 0:11:58Grind two tablespoons of whole black peppercorns.
0:11:58 > 0:12:04Their fresh heat is going to be at the heart of the Steak Diane sauce.
0:12:04 > 0:12:05And add a little salt.
0:12:07 > 0:12:11For the potatoes, you'll need to cube around 650 grams.
0:12:11 > 0:12:13Use Maris Pipers if you can.
0:12:13 > 0:12:16They'll need to boil for 5 minutes or so,
0:12:16 > 0:12:18just until they start to soften.
0:12:19 > 0:12:24The war is over, Merry Christmas! Let's party!
0:12:24 > 0:12:29This is the time of David Hemmings and Blow Up! David Bailey, Jean Shrimpton!
0:12:29 > 0:12:33It's groovy, baby! It's mad-for-it man food! Whoa!
0:12:35 > 0:12:40- Do you not think he's liking this a bit too much?- I was there, man!
0:12:40 > 0:12:44Man, I was, man! I caught the tail end of it, but I was there!
0:12:44 > 0:12:48- How old were you in 1968?- 3! - Lying toad.
0:12:48 > 0:12:52- All right. I was 11.- Were you?
0:12:52 > 0:12:56- I was there, yeah. I used to have a "vi-nile" top.- Vinyl, man, vinyl.
0:12:56 > 0:12:58It was "vi-nile" in Barrow.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02And it had a TV 21 sticker on it from the comic.
0:13:02 > 0:13:04- I remember decimalisation, me. - Do you?
0:13:04 > 0:13:08I had me converter and everything, two little wheels.
0:13:08 > 0:13:12Those were heady days. I remember the first man on t'moon.
0:13:12 > 0:13:15I remember England winning the World Cup!
0:13:15 > 0:13:18I think we might have to wait until you can go to Mars
0:13:18 > 0:13:23on a mini-break before any of us get to experience that pleasure again.
0:13:23 > 0:13:24Scruff your taters!
0:13:27 > 0:13:30Look, they're just slightly scruffed up,
0:13:30 > 0:13:33and a scruffed-up spud is a crispy spud!
0:13:38 > 0:13:43Put 50g of butter and two tablespoons of sunflower oil into a hot pan.
0:13:45 > 0:13:47And when it's melted, add the potatoes
0:13:47 > 0:13:51and season with lashings of salt and pepper.
0:13:53 > 0:13:57You'll want to cook them until they begin to go golden.
0:13:59 > 0:14:01They're colouring up a treat!
0:14:01 > 0:14:04- They're nice, them, dude, aren't they?- Time for the garlic!
0:14:04 > 0:14:06That would be new in the '60s.
0:14:06 > 0:14:09A new and revolutionary, freaky thing called garlic!
0:14:09 > 0:14:12Funny how times have changed and how our palettes have changed.
0:14:12 > 0:14:15Because there's far more food available now with varying
0:14:15 > 0:14:18flavours and tastes than there ever was then.
0:14:18 > 0:14:20The '60s had a certain culinary style,
0:14:20 > 0:14:25but it could be said in some ways to be a bit of a gastronomic desert.
0:14:25 > 0:14:28- But we were less than a decade out of rationing!- Exactly!
0:14:28 > 0:14:31- So people's psyches were different.- Absolutely.
0:14:33 > 0:14:37After 10 minutes add the cloves of one small bulb, keep them in their
0:14:37 > 0:14:41skin so when they're cooked they'll provide bursts of yummy garlicness.
0:14:44 > 0:14:47And add a teaspoon of finely chopped thyme leaves.
0:14:51 > 0:14:55OK, we're going to start cooking these lovely steaks.
0:14:55 > 0:14:59With the salt and pepper mix we made before.
0:14:59 > 0:15:03Now, you could use sirloin or rump for this, or indeed rib-eye.
0:15:03 > 0:15:08The Diane refers to the sauce, not the actual piece of beast.
0:15:08 > 0:15:16So just liberally season them on both sides. Quite a large knob of butter.
0:15:16 > 0:15:23- And a little bit of oil.- Whoa! - Here we go. Now.
0:15:24 > 0:15:30Oh, and that seasoning is going to form a wonderful crust, isn't it?
0:15:30 > 0:15:33- It's beautiful.- Some people say you shouldn't salt steak before you cook it,
0:15:33 > 0:15:36as it draws the moisture out, but it's worth it for that crust!
0:15:36 > 0:15:39We kind of want it rare, medium-rare,
0:15:39 > 0:15:41so it's about three minutes on each side.
0:15:41 > 0:15:44Obviously, that depends on how thick your steak is,
0:15:44 > 0:15:48so the rule by thumb though, with a steak of that thickness,
0:15:48 > 0:15:51three minutes each side, you'll get it medium-rare.
0:15:51 > 0:15:53You know when you're cooking this on telly
0:15:53 > 0:15:58and you look around and the crew are like on starting blocks with forks in their back pockets,
0:15:58 > 0:16:00- it's a fearsome sight!- It is!
0:16:02 > 0:16:05But they'll have to wait whilst the steaks are cooking.
0:16:06 > 0:16:10Finely slice two shallots, ready for the sauce.
0:16:12 > 0:16:15When the steaks are ready, take them out to rest...
0:16:16 > 0:16:18..which is essential for the meat
0:16:18 > 0:16:20to release lots of their lovely juices,
0:16:20 > 0:16:23which we're going to need later on.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27Look at that!
0:16:27 > 0:16:31Butter, fat, meat juices, pepper and salt.
0:16:31 > 0:16:34To that, we add the shallots, and we give them
0:16:34 > 0:16:37about three minutes - I've turned that right down.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46'Now comes the fun bit - you'll need three tablespoons of brandy!'
0:16:47 > 0:16:51- Are we ready?- We certainly are. - Right, this is the bit I love.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54And the brandy... Take care. If you burn your kitchen down,
0:16:54 > 0:16:56it's over to you - don't blame us, OK?
0:17:00 > 0:17:03Oh! Zut alors, my crepe suzette!
0:17:03 > 0:17:05Ooh, fire! Duh-duh...!
0:17:06 > 0:17:09# Take you to burn
0:17:10 > 0:17:12# Fire...! #
0:17:15 > 0:17:17Flambeing the sauce will cause
0:17:17 > 0:17:20all the bitter alcohol from the brandy to evaporate.
0:17:20 > 0:17:22Look at that!
0:17:24 > 0:17:28Oh! I feel the spirit of Arthur Brown is upon me!
0:17:28 > 0:17:31Now, to that, a teaspoon of mustard -
0:17:31 > 0:17:33French!
0:17:34 > 0:17:37Some Worcestershire sauce - undoubtedly English.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40This is very much an entente cordiale, isn't it, this?
0:17:40 > 0:17:43Now, some stock - beef, not too strong.
0:17:43 > 0:17:47If you make this with a cube, just use a third of a cube for 200ml.
0:17:49 > 0:17:52- LAUGHING:- Now, the cream!
0:17:52 > 0:17:55Three tablespoons of double cream.
0:17:56 > 0:17:58You have the cooking juices -
0:17:58 > 0:18:01put those back into the pan.
0:18:02 > 0:18:03Oh!
0:18:04 > 0:18:06That's cooking gold.
0:18:08 > 0:18:10It is the most delicious sauce, isn't it?
0:18:10 > 0:18:12Oh, it's beautiful. It's classic,
0:18:12 > 0:18:14it's just all of those classical French techniques
0:18:14 > 0:18:18- just there - fabulous.- I wish you could put your head in this pan,
0:18:18 > 0:18:21because that garlic, and the crispy potatoes,
0:18:21 > 0:18:24is beginning to give off such an aroma, it's heaven.
0:18:25 > 0:18:28'And for the finishing touch to the sauce,
0:18:28 > 0:18:31'add a tablespoon of finely chopped tarragon leaves.'
0:18:36 > 0:18:38And now, look at those!
0:18:38 > 0:18:41Without the aid of an oven, that really is a treat.
0:18:42 > 0:18:44And now, the sauce.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46Look at that!
0:18:46 > 0:18:49It may be an old trick, but it's a good 'un!
0:18:49 > 0:18:52It's funny, when we're cooking, you know there's ones
0:18:52 > 0:18:54that you're going to take home and do at the weekend.
0:18:54 > 0:18:57- And I can certainly feel this one coming home!- Without a doubt!
0:18:57 > 0:19:01Without a doubt! It's nice to revisit recipes like this.
0:19:01 > 0:19:04- I love it - really, really good. - And there we have it.
0:19:05 > 0:19:07Just wait, just look at it.
0:19:07 > 0:19:08Great!
0:19:12 > 0:19:13Mmm!
0:19:13 > 0:19:15Classic flavours.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18- Mmm, it is gorgeous. - It IS gorgeous, isn't it?!
0:19:18 > 0:19:21You wonder why this dish has fallen off the scale on modern-day menus.
0:19:21 > 0:19:24I don't know why, because it's fantastic.
0:19:24 > 0:19:27If that's what was going on in the '60s, I'm really sorry I missed it.
0:19:27 > 0:19:31This was the dinner that won the World Cup.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33This was the dinner that put man on the moon!
0:19:42 > 0:19:45Eating out might have been increasing in popularity
0:19:45 > 0:19:47in the 1960s, but for a lot of Brits
0:19:47 > 0:19:50it was still a relatively unusual undertaking.
0:19:54 > 0:19:57In fact, back then, more and more of us were actually
0:19:57 > 0:20:01spending more time at home than ever before.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05- And it was all down to this... - BOTH:- Television!
0:20:10 > 0:20:11At the beginning of the decade,
0:20:11 > 0:20:14around three-quarters of households owned a telly.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18But by the end of it nearly every home in the country had one.
0:20:18 > 0:20:22And it was a powerful force, not just on our social habits
0:20:22 > 0:20:24but on our eating ones, too.
0:20:25 > 0:20:28You see, night after night, an ever-growing array
0:20:28 > 0:20:31of enticing new products were beamed into our sitting rooms,
0:20:31 > 0:20:35courtesy of the commercial break.
0:20:35 > 0:20:38# Birds Eye peas Sweet as the moment
0:20:38 > 0:20:42# Sweet as the moment when the pod went pop! #
0:20:42 > 0:20:45The arrival of ITV in 1955
0:20:45 > 0:20:48had introduced us to television adverts for the first time.
0:20:48 > 0:20:52Golden Wonder peanuts - jungle fresh!
0:20:52 > 0:20:55But the '60s was when the industry really came of age.
0:20:55 > 0:20:59Tickling our taste buds, with an increasingly affluent population,
0:20:59 > 0:21:03with a mind-boggling array of exciting products.
0:21:03 > 0:21:05What's this, Mummy?
0:21:05 > 0:21:07Heinz tomato soup, darling!
0:21:09 > 0:21:11Oh, whopper!
0:21:11 > 0:21:14With more choice on offer, it was important for brands
0:21:14 > 0:21:18to stand out, so they turned to the masters of this new science.
0:21:18 > 0:21:23'Last year, nearly £600 million was spent on advertising,
0:21:23 > 0:21:26'and this is where the advertising agency steps in.'
0:21:26 > 0:21:28'Snack makes a dream of a break...'
0:21:28 > 0:21:32'I think the second dream sequence is first-class - the wedding.
0:21:32 > 0:21:33'Technically, it's very good...'
0:21:33 > 0:21:36'Advertising agencies are glossy places,
0:21:36 > 0:21:37'and the client is made to feel
0:21:37 > 0:21:41'that there's a well-staffed, high- powered organisation at his disposal,
0:21:41 > 0:21:43'and the job of the agency'
0:21:43 > 0:21:46is to make the products that they are responsible for
0:21:46 > 0:21:47into something people want.
0:21:47 > 0:21:51Advertising was a new, glamorous industry...
0:21:52 > 0:21:55..where Britain's top young creatives had to grapple
0:21:55 > 0:21:58with some of life's most important questions.
0:21:59 > 0:22:01'What do people think about when they buy butter?
0:22:01 > 0:22:05'What sort of qualities do they like their butter to have?
0:22:05 > 0:22:08'Why do they prefer one brand to another?
0:22:08 > 0:22:11'What does butter mean to people?'
0:22:11 > 0:22:14It was a tough job, but someone had to do it.
0:22:14 > 0:22:16'A former boss of mine used to say
0:22:16 > 0:22:19'that good writers dream their way into the product.'
0:22:19 > 0:22:23Throughout the '60s, advertising executives honed the technique
0:22:23 > 0:22:26that made a product stand out.
0:22:26 > 0:22:28There was the jingle...
0:22:38 > 0:22:40Friendly characters...
0:22:40 > 0:22:43- Grrreat! - Cap'n Birds Eye's the name!
0:22:43 > 0:22:46..and regular, normal families we could all identify with.
0:22:46 > 0:22:48Philip is trying to read his paper,
0:22:48 > 0:22:50but he can smell the Oxo potatoes I'm cooking.
0:22:50 > 0:22:53A good, rich smell is half the secret of cooking, isn't it?
0:22:53 > 0:22:54Philip, supper's ready!
0:22:54 > 0:22:58Birds Eye peas are sweet as the moment when the pod went...
0:22:58 > 0:23:00# Ooh...! #
0:23:00 > 0:23:04The '60s provided the grounding for all television advertising to come.
0:23:04 > 0:23:06# Smarties...! #
0:23:06 > 0:23:09You never bought a cake mix like this before.
0:23:09 > 0:23:11It's new, it's fresh, from Viota.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15In this age of affluence, and amidst the growth of the supermarket,
0:23:15 > 0:23:18brand power became all-conquering.
0:23:18 > 0:23:21- # Real good flavour New, from Fry's!- #
0:23:21 > 0:23:24And our diet changed beyond all recognition,
0:23:24 > 0:23:26as we all rushed to sample the latest thing.
0:23:26 > 0:23:29You see? The advertisement's right...
0:23:36 > 0:23:37But back in the '60s,
0:23:37 > 0:23:41it wasn't just advertising that was altering the way we looked at food.
0:23:42 > 0:23:45The magic of television was broadening our culinary horizons
0:23:45 > 0:23:48in other ways, too.
0:23:48 > 0:23:51It was the era where the TV chef came of age.
0:23:51 > 0:23:56And the queen of them all changed the way we cooked for ever.
0:23:56 > 0:23:59There it is. You can have those bits, too - now go away.
0:24:00 > 0:24:04Fanny Cradock might have been proper terrifying,
0:24:04 > 0:24:06but her cooking series helped kick-start
0:24:06 > 0:24:09the culinary revolution in Britain,
0:24:09 > 0:24:12bringing international cuisine to the masses.
0:24:12 > 0:24:15Now, I've chosen to share with you a dish called...
0:24:15 > 0:24:19Well, it's an Italian dish, and it's cozze gratinate.
0:24:19 > 0:24:22- Just a dish of baked mussels to us in English.- Pour that over...
0:24:22 > 0:24:25Despite being quite formidable, Fanny made cooking exciting,
0:24:25 > 0:24:28challenging... SHE COUGHS
0:24:28 > 0:24:30..and, dare we say it, glamorous.
0:24:30 > 0:24:34This is called an assiette des fruits de mer - fruits of the sea.
0:24:34 > 0:24:38Seafoods, which make a most lovely presentation dish on a buffet
0:24:38 > 0:24:40when you're going a bit grand.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43There is the sole...
0:24:43 > 0:24:44The audience loved her,
0:24:44 > 0:24:48and her affordable but extravagant dishes!
0:24:48 > 0:24:50Take hold of the skin
0:24:50 > 0:24:54and pull and pull and...pull.
0:24:54 > 0:24:57She was the unrivalled doyenne of British cuisine,
0:24:57 > 0:25:02but by the '70s her screen persona had become a bit of a caricature.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04Well, I always think...
0:25:04 > 0:25:07and I think you'll probably agree with me, that...
0:25:07 > 0:25:11somehow or other, mincemeat... is the Cinderella...
0:25:11 > 0:25:14of, erm, Christmas cooking.
0:25:14 > 0:25:19Even today, Fanny's unique appeal is still drawing in the crowds.
0:25:19 > 0:25:22I'm Fanny, and he's Johnnie...
0:25:22 > 0:25:25Touring restaurants in Bristol, this play tells the story
0:25:25 > 0:25:29of the life of Fanny and her sidekick husband Johnnie.
0:25:29 > 0:25:31Fanny Cradock is terribly alluring,
0:25:31 > 0:25:34absolutely fascinating and totally compulsive.
0:25:34 > 0:25:36I watch her with my jaw on my chest.
0:25:36 > 0:25:38You can't believe that she's real, really.
0:25:38 > 0:25:41Everything in life is so easy when you know the way.
0:25:41 > 0:25:44It's just a question of the pleasure that I get, selfishly,
0:25:44 > 0:25:47out of sharing the ways of the things I've happened to discover.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50She could have been written by Mike Leigh or Alan Ayckbourn or somebody.
0:25:50 > 0:25:53It's, erm, an absolutely fascinating character.
0:25:53 > 0:25:55Let's turn back and see how he's getting on,
0:25:55 > 0:25:58and whether or not his custard is thick. Hold that spoon
0:25:58 > 0:26:01a little lower, dear, and take up another spoonful for us,
0:26:01 > 0:26:02will you...? It's absolutely right.
0:26:02 > 0:26:04You see? It flops idly off the spoon
0:26:04 > 0:26:07and coats the batter very thickly indeed.
0:26:07 > 0:26:11She turned food into theatre, I think,
0:26:11 > 0:26:15although some people say it's not so much food theatre as food pantomime.
0:26:15 > 0:26:20But she did, she was a show woman, I think, she was a performer.
0:26:20 > 0:26:23And she wore costumes. Those ballgowns were costumes.
0:26:23 > 0:26:26And the play isn't just a celebration of Mrs Craddock
0:26:26 > 0:26:31but of arguably her most enduring invention - the prawn cocktail.
0:26:32 > 0:26:35Either six ounces of chopped prawns, shelled of course,
0:26:35 > 0:26:37or six ounces of shrimps,
0:26:37 > 0:26:42to which I then add a generous dollop of real mayonnaise.
0:26:45 > 0:26:49This was THE dinner party starter for more than 20 years
0:26:49 > 0:26:53and is still the second most popular at Christmas dinner.
0:26:53 > 0:26:57I think maybe Fanny would have been surprised
0:26:57 > 0:27:00about the global success of the prawn cocktail.
0:27:00 > 0:27:02I don't think that she would have envisaged
0:27:02 > 0:27:05that it would have been so iconic.
0:27:05 > 0:27:09Chef Peter Taylor is in charge of making prawn cocktails
0:27:09 > 0:27:13for the performance, and he's going to give it his own twist.
0:27:13 > 0:27:17I think the dish itself lends itself to all sorts of interpretations
0:27:17 > 0:27:20given that the ingredients are so simple - the prawns,
0:27:20 > 0:27:22the leaves, the dressing.
0:27:22 > 0:27:26So we'll use Japanese spices and yuzu, which is Japanese grapefruit,
0:27:26 > 0:27:29to put our own particular flavour profile,
0:27:29 > 0:27:31if you like, on the classic prawn cocktail.
0:27:31 > 0:27:36- Ooh, I don't think Fanny would like that, would she?- You wouldn't dare!
0:27:36 > 0:27:39The last ingredient I'm going to add, for a final Japanese twist,
0:27:39 > 0:27:42is sesame toast. So there we are. That's it finished.
0:27:42 > 0:27:46Well, that's one down, Peter, only another 69 to go.
0:27:46 > 0:27:49Prawn cocktail for you lot, and no long faces
0:27:49 > 0:27:51because this is my original recipe.
0:27:51 > 0:27:55Endlessly imitated, never as good.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59APPLAUSE
0:28:03 > 0:28:07It's been a very good show, we're thoroughly enjoying it.
0:28:07 > 0:28:10And particularly, the, you know, the prawn cocktail,
0:28:10 > 0:28:12which was not quite as she described it,
0:28:12 > 0:28:15but, you know, it was good. It was good.
0:28:17 > 0:28:19Yes, I do remember Fanny Craddock.
0:28:19 > 0:28:21Very loud, lots of make-up and very old.
0:28:21 > 0:28:23I can remember Fanny Craddock.
0:28:23 > 0:28:26We all used to sit in front of the television,
0:28:26 > 0:28:29all excitedly waiting for Fanny to come on.
0:28:29 > 0:28:30Really excited, we were,
0:28:30 > 0:28:33and it brings back memories to watch her tonight.
0:28:33 > 0:28:36I think that people watched Fanny Craddock cook
0:28:36 > 0:28:38to see how they should live,
0:28:38 > 0:28:41what the posh people do,
0:28:41 > 0:28:44what the quality people do, what does she eat?
0:28:44 > 0:28:48And I think you learned stuff,
0:28:48 > 0:28:51so it was much bigger than just the recipes.
0:28:51 > 0:28:54You actually got confidence that,
0:28:54 > 0:28:56after the war,
0:28:56 > 0:28:58things were off-ration,
0:28:58 > 0:29:01there were extraordinary foods you could buy, there were new things,
0:29:01 > 0:29:04and Fanny showed you how to live.
0:29:04 > 0:29:07I'm going over it again, what I've been doing.
0:29:07 > 0:29:13For our lemon baskets, well, supposing you've got clean hands,
0:29:13 > 0:29:16and you care to manicure them, you don't want them covered in little
0:29:16 > 0:29:19messy bits of lemon. These look pretty. And then, you see,
0:29:19 > 0:29:22you can take them and you can squeeze your juice over your portion
0:29:22 > 0:29:24and put it back again - it still looks pleasant,
0:29:24 > 0:29:25and your hands are unmarked.
0:29:25 > 0:29:29She knew her stuff, you know.
0:29:29 > 0:29:32Whether you like the stuff she knew or not is another matter,
0:29:32 > 0:29:35but she really did spend a lifetime with food.
0:29:36 > 0:29:39Fanny's career came to an abrupt end in 1976
0:29:39 > 0:29:44when the audiences and the BBC finally had enough of her rude ways.
0:29:44 > 0:29:46She died in 1994
0:29:46 > 0:29:49but lives on in the recipes she made famous.
0:29:51 > 0:29:54Lovely being back with you. Thank you so much for watching.
0:29:56 > 0:30:00Fanny provided the inspiration for many a dinner party
0:30:00 > 0:30:03back in the '60s and, if there was one dish
0:30:03 > 0:30:07guaranteed to impress the Joneses next door, it was this.
0:30:07 > 0:30:12A meal worthy of the grande dame of cookery herself.
0:30:12 > 0:30:15Duck a l'orange. Ooh la-la!
0:30:15 > 0:30:17CHEESY '60S TV SHOW MUSIC
0:30:19 > 0:30:24Before the 1960s, French food used to be the preserve of the rich and the stuffy.
0:30:24 > 0:30:26It was all starched collars and gentlemen's clubs.
0:30:26 > 0:30:30But dishes like duck a l'orange brought French food
0:30:30 > 0:30:33to maybe the not-so-aristocratic Brits.
0:30:33 > 0:30:36And, to us, it symbolises the culinary colour,
0:30:36 > 0:30:40adventure and spirit of the 1960s.
0:30:40 > 0:30:42Ah, far out, man!
0:30:42 > 0:30:44Come on, man, let's get it on with t'duck!
0:30:44 > 0:30:47Now, what we're going to do, beautiful,
0:30:47 > 0:30:49beautiful Great British duck.
0:30:49 > 0:30:52We used to eat more duck, originally, than hen.
0:30:52 > 0:30:55Yes, there was more duck consumed in Britain than chicken
0:30:55 > 0:30:59and it was the two world wars that decimated the duck population.
0:30:59 > 0:31:00Anyway, I've got an orange here,
0:31:00 > 0:31:03I'm going to get a big strip of orange peel
0:31:03 > 0:31:06from which I'm going to make juliennes for the sauce later on.
0:31:06 > 0:31:09Juliennes are little thin strips of flavour.
0:31:11 > 0:31:15Use a vegetable peeler to remove half the skin of an orange.
0:31:17 > 0:31:20Then slice the peel into fine julienne strips.
0:31:24 > 0:31:26Prick the duck all over with a skewer.
0:31:26 > 0:31:29But be careful not to prick it too deeply.
0:31:29 > 0:31:31This will allow the fat to escape when it cooks.
0:31:34 > 0:31:38Then, place half the orange into the duck,
0:31:38 > 0:31:40pushing it towards the neck end to support the breast.
0:31:42 > 0:31:45And add half an onion cut into chunks.
0:31:47 > 0:31:49And two bay leaves.
0:31:52 > 0:31:56Then season it with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
0:31:57 > 0:32:01And place it on a rack, set inside a sturdy roasting tin.
0:32:04 > 0:32:06So, quite simply, pop that into a preheated oven
0:32:06 > 0:32:12at 190 Celsius, quite a hot oven, for between 35-45 minutes.
0:32:12 > 0:32:14Thank you.
0:32:15 > 0:32:19Which gives us time, man, to get our heads back in the '60s.
0:32:21 > 0:32:22Mine's never left.
0:32:23 > 0:32:25I know, I've seen your wardrobe.
0:32:27 > 0:32:30After 45 minutes, take it out.
0:32:30 > 0:32:33- Oh, yes, perfect.- Ooh, look.
0:32:34 > 0:32:36And the orange has started to erupt.
0:32:38 > 0:32:41But fruit and meat, I mean, we've been doing it for ever, haven't we?
0:32:41 > 0:32:45- We have.- It's thought that it first started in the Middle East,
0:32:45 > 0:32:50but now we have goose with cherries, lemon with fish, duck a l'orange.
0:32:53 > 0:32:56Duck fat. Just the thing for your potatoes.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02Once you drain the fat, pop the bird back into the oven
0:33:02 > 0:33:04for another 45 minutes.
0:33:05 > 0:33:09Phwoarr! Nothing quite beats the smell of roasting duck and orange.
0:33:09 > 0:33:14Right. We're ready, oooh! Oh, yes.
0:33:16 > 0:33:19Oh, you little lovely. Beautiful, eh?
0:33:21 > 0:33:24And this is just going to rest.
0:33:24 > 0:33:27Yes, more roast potato potential.
0:33:27 > 0:33:33Leave about a tablespoon of the duck fat in the dish. Beautiful.
0:33:33 > 0:33:37Right, look at all those lovely cooking juices as well.
0:33:37 > 0:33:40And this is the other half of the onion we used earlier.
0:33:40 > 0:33:44I'll just slice that very thinly, and this is the orange sauce.
0:33:44 > 0:33:47Ours is quite light, and it's, kind of, surprise surprise,
0:33:47 > 0:33:49got real oranges in it.
0:33:49 > 0:33:52But, some people have started making the orange sauce
0:33:52 > 0:33:55with fizzy orange juice. The old pop.
0:33:55 > 0:33:57Wrong, Dave, it's wrong.
0:33:57 > 0:34:00And you fry off the onion in the duck fat.
0:34:00 > 0:34:02But we're doing it in the roasting tin,
0:34:02 > 0:34:05because we don't want to waste any flavours at all.
0:34:08 > 0:34:13Once the onions have softened, add a nice glug of red wine
0:34:13 > 0:34:17and four tablespoons of orange liqueur.
0:34:18 > 0:34:20You'll want to burn off the alcohol for a bit.
0:34:22 > 0:34:27Then add the juice of one and a half oranges.
0:34:28 > 0:34:34Just 150ml of water.
0:34:34 > 0:34:37And we need to strain it.
0:34:38 > 0:34:41The fly! Wargh!
0:34:41 > 0:34:43SI MIMICS FLY-SPRAY
0:34:43 > 0:34:45Then, we need to strain that sauce.
0:34:45 > 0:34:48There isn't a scrap of flavour left on that tin, is there, mate?
0:34:48 > 0:34:50No, there's not.
0:34:50 > 0:34:57Now, into that pan put the julienne of orange peel.
0:34:57 > 0:34:59And now the marmalade.
0:35:00 > 0:35:03Three tablespoons of marmalade.
0:35:05 > 0:35:07Two.
0:35:10 > 0:35:14And the marmalade will thicken and give the sauce a lovely sheen.
0:35:17 > 0:35:20But you want a sumptuous, thick sauce, so add a mixture
0:35:20 > 0:35:25of one tablespoon of water and two tablespoons of cornflour.
0:35:28 > 0:35:31Now, our beautiful duck has rested
0:35:31 > 0:35:35and a great way of making sure that the duck's cooked properly
0:35:35 > 0:35:39is just give the legs a little wiggle
0:35:39 > 0:35:42and if they move freely, job's a good 'un, they're cooked.
0:35:42 > 0:35:46In the words of that song, "just wiggle it, just a little bit".
0:35:46 > 0:35:50Look at this, it looks like Fanny Cradock's kitchen, doesn't it?
0:35:50 > 0:35:52Without the psychedelia.
0:35:52 > 0:35:57- I wonder if Fanny Cradock was a psychedelic girl.- No, she wasn't.
0:35:57 > 0:36:01- No.- I think gin and tonic was more her cup of tea, really.- Yes.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03Now, that is beautiful.
0:36:06 > 0:36:08We're serving it with all the best British veg.
0:36:10 > 0:36:13Red cabbage, these are all those great traditional things
0:36:13 > 0:36:16that go with duck a l'orange.
0:36:16 > 0:36:19- Now...- Oh, yeah.
0:36:19 > 0:36:23- It is thick, but I think it should be thick.- So do I.
0:36:23 > 0:36:26Do you imagine in the '60s, that was new food.
0:36:26 > 0:36:29That was the shape of the future.
0:36:29 > 0:36:31There was prosperity there that they hadn't had for years.
0:36:31 > 0:36:34You know, all of a sudden, it started to filter through.
0:36:34 > 0:36:37But do try our duck a l'orange.
0:36:37 > 0:36:39It's been a long time and it hasn't been forgotten.
0:36:39 > 0:36:44No, that on the menu, come on, folks, it's brilliant.
0:36:44 > 0:36:47I think, as my mother would say, I've got eyes in me belly now.
0:36:47 > 0:36:49Absolutely. Let's give it a go.
0:36:57 > 0:37:00- They complement each other so well.- Yeah.
0:37:00 > 0:37:04I think that particular orange sauce is perfect.
0:37:04 > 0:37:07You know, it's got the richness from the liqueur, fresh orange juice
0:37:07 > 0:37:12to give it freshness and a zest, as well. It's not a dead sauce.
0:37:12 > 0:37:13It's heaven.
0:37:13 > 0:37:16At the time when Neil Armstrong walked on the moon,
0:37:16 > 0:37:19they would have been enjoying this in Surbiton.
0:37:23 > 0:37:27Back in the '60s, it wasn't just the culinary landscape that was changing.
0:37:28 > 0:37:31The countryside changed beyond all recognition, too,
0:37:31 > 0:37:35thanks to the advent of a truly monumental undertaking.
0:37:44 > 0:37:48- REPORTER:- This is the beginning of something new.
0:37:48 > 0:37:50This first stretch of the London to Yorkshire motorway
0:37:50 > 0:37:54up to Birmingham is the start of a network of brand-new highways.
0:37:54 > 0:37:58Eventually, that network will cover the whole country.
0:38:01 > 0:38:04The motorways were designed to make travelling from A to B easier.
0:38:04 > 0:38:07But with no speed limits, and little traffic,
0:38:07 > 0:38:11these new highways became a destination in their own right.
0:38:14 > 0:38:17# Keep on running
0:38:17 > 0:38:20# Keep on hiding... #
0:38:20 > 0:38:23People rushed to give the new experience a go.
0:38:23 > 0:38:26But man could not live by speed alone.
0:38:29 > 0:38:32This is something entirely new in this country.
0:38:32 > 0:38:36You will notice that there are two identical stations
0:38:36 > 0:38:39opposite to each other on the motorway, which is here.
0:38:41 > 0:38:44The first motorway service station, Watford Gap,
0:38:44 > 0:38:47started off by selling sandwiches from a hut,
0:38:47 > 0:38:51but they rapidly became more than somewhere to simply refuel.
0:38:58 > 0:39:02Because the operators had other ideas.
0:39:02 > 0:39:05Companies alike Mecca and Granada had
0:39:05 > 0:39:08made their name in the leisure industry with dance halls,
0:39:08 > 0:39:13bowling alleys and bingo clubs and they knew how to entertain.
0:39:13 > 0:39:15# Come on, baby
0:39:15 > 0:39:17# Let's do the twist... #
0:39:17 > 0:39:20The venues captured the spirit of the age perfectly.
0:39:22 > 0:39:24They were exciting, new and stylish.
0:39:26 > 0:39:29With swanky restaurants complete with a motorway view.
0:39:31 > 0:39:32At Trowel services on the M1,
0:39:32 > 0:39:35you could eat in a Robin Hood themed dining room!
0:39:36 > 0:39:41And '60s design guru Terence Conran was even called in to style
0:39:41 > 0:39:45The Captain's Table, a fish restaurant at Leicester Forest East.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52Yes, it seems unbelievable today
0:39:52 > 0:39:56but in the '60s service stations offered the kind of restaurant
0:39:56 > 0:40:00that would only have been found in the West End of London before.
0:40:02 > 0:40:05THEY brought exclusive top-class cuisine to the masses,
0:40:05 > 0:40:08complete with uniformed hostesses and silver service.
0:40:09 > 0:40:13London might have been swinging but, for the average Brit,
0:40:13 > 0:40:17nothing said glamour like a motorway service station on the M1.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22Potted palms, jungle plants, decorational gewgaws,
0:40:22 > 0:40:25a marble wall, fitted carpets,
0:40:25 > 0:40:28everything you'd expect to find in one of the great restaurants of Europe.
0:40:30 > 0:40:33But, alas, this heyday wasn't to last.
0:40:37 > 0:40:40As the decade went on, and the motorway became less of an adventure
0:40:40 > 0:40:42and more of a chore,
0:40:42 > 0:40:46the novelty of the service station started to wear off.
0:40:48 > 0:40:51Over the years, the menu has become more and more simple
0:40:51 > 0:40:53and still nobody is coming to it.
0:40:53 > 0:40:55They go on grumbling about the food on the motorway
0:40:55 > 0:40:58but when it's offered to them, they don't apparently want it.
0:40:58 > 0:41:01I've got to the end of the wall and they've got to the end of the road.
0:41:01 > 0:41:03It isn't going to be The Captain's Table any more,
0:41:03 > 0:41:06it isn't even going to be The Potted Shrimp.
0:41:06 > 0:41:09All we really want is yet another greasy spoon.
0:41:11 > 0:41:14Yeah, it quickly changed to chips with everything
0:41:14 > 0:41:15and prepacked sarnies.
0:41:15 > 0:41:20The service station fare that we know and loathe today.
0:41:26 > 0:41:31The youth of the '60s enjoyed a freedom never experienced by their predecessors.
0:41:31 > 0:41:35Ideas of open defiance, protest, revolution
0:41:35 > 0:41:38and breaking with the past were order of the day.
0:41:40 > 0:41:42And food was no exception.
0:41:42 > 0:41:45Many rejected the standard British meat and two veg
0:41:45 > 0:41:49and instead embraced vegetarianism.
0:41:49 > 0:41:53It wasn't a '60s invention, but the decade came to define it.
0:41:53 > 0:41:55They protest against plastic foods,
0:41:55 > 0:41:58the slaying of animals to eat, all the pressures
0:41:58 > 0:42:02and conformist attitudes in a world that condones violence.
0:42:06 > 0:42:09One Edinburgh restaurant, Henderson's,
0:42:09 > 0:42:11was there from the very start.
0:42:11 > 0:42:14Opened in 1962 by Janet Henderson,
0:42:14 > 0:42:18the restaurant's meat-free cooking revolutionised attitudes
0:42:18 > 0:42:20to vegetarian food in the city.
0:42:21 > 0:42:24Janet was a farmer and the restaurant developed
0:42:24 > 0:42:28out of her desire to sell healthy veg to her customers.
0:42:28 > 0:42:31And 50 years on, it's still run by the same family.
0:42:31 > 0:42:34Janet's daughter Catherine has been working at the restaurant
0:42:34 > 0:42:37since the very beginning.
0:42:37 > 0:42:41Back in the '60s my mother opened up what they called the farm shop
0:42:41 > 0:42:44because it was selling the goods from the farm
0:42:44 > 0:42:49and then about a year later she decided that
0:42:49 > 0:42:53instead of selling the cabbage for a shilling,
0:42:53 > 0:42:55that she would chop it up and serve it,
0:42:55 > 0:42:58you know, make a coleslaw and sell it for a pound.
0:42:59 > 0:43:03In the beginning it was very small. It grew organically.
0:43:04 > 0:43:08To celebrate their 50th anniversary Catherine and head chef Barry Baker
0:43:08 > 0:43:12are going to cook up some favourite dishes from the past and present.
0:43:13 > 0:43:18Catherine is making a time-honoured recipe for leek and potato soup.
0:43:18 > 0:43:21In the restaurant there were always two soups on the menu,
0:43:21 > 0:43:25there was usually a vegetable soup and then there was another.
0:43:25 > 0:43:29They still do two soups every day, even now.
0:43:29 > 0:43:33It's something that's always on the menu.
0:43:33 > 0:43:36It's simple but effective and it's this sort of dish
0:43:36 > 0:43:38that first got people hooked in the '60s,
0:43:38 > 0:43:42as it's packed with flavoursome and nutritious veg.
0:43:42 > 0:43:44You know, my mother was very aware of diet
0:43:44 > 0:43:47and I feel that she was ahead of her time in those days.
0:43:47 > 0:43:49She became interested in vegetarianism
0:43:49 > 0:43:54when she went to stay with her aunt in Austria in the early '30s.
0:43:54 > 0:43:58She, at that early age, became very aware about diet
0:43:58 > 0:44:01and, I think, that's what, you know, she did with us.
0:44:01 > 0:44:03She was trying to make us aware about diet
0:44:03 > 0:44:07and the better the food, the better the fuel you put into your body,
0:44:07 > 0:44:10the better you are as an individual.
0:44:10 > 0:44:13Back in the '60s, this was pioneering stuff.
0:44:13 > 0:44:17Vegetarian food wasn't something people really understood.
0:44:17 > 0:44:21She never made a big thing about it being vegetarian
0:44:21 > 0:44:24because she thought that might put people off.
0:44:24 > 0:44:27She called it Henderson's Salad Table.
0:44:27 > 0:44:30The thing was, she wanted to educate people that you could eat
0:44:30 > 0:44:35a good diet, a healthy diet, with just vegetables and fruit.
0:44:37 > 0:44:39Having prepared the veggies for the soup,
0:44:39 > 0:44:43Catherine moves on to making fruit salad with sour cream and ginger.
0:44:43 > 0:44:46It's a restaurant favourite that's been on the menu
0:44:46 > 0:44:48since the very beginning.
0:44:48 > 0:44:52This one is a constant and has been a constant for 50 years.
0:44:52 > 0:44:56I particularly remember my mother making this one.
0:44:56 > 0:44:58It's got very fond memories for me.
0:45:00 > 0:45:04This is about the right consistency and it does, yes,
0:45:04 > 0:45:07it very much reminds me of my mother.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10Yeah, that's it, that looks good. It looks good to me!
0:45:13 > 0:45:16Vegetarian food has come a long way since the '60s.
0:45:19 > 0:45:22It's grown from something associated with beardy-weirdies
0:45:22 > 0:45:24to a mainstream food choice today.
0:45:24 > 0:45:27And the range on offer has transformed, too.
0:45:27 > 0:45:31Head chef Barry has overseen the transition from simple,
0:45:31 > 0:45:35veggie fare to cuisine with an international scope.
0:45:35 > 0:45:38I've been at Henderson's since 1984
0:45:38 > 0:45:40and when I first started here the produce that we used
0:45:40 > 0:45:42was very much local produce
0:45:42 > 0:45:45and produce that people would have in their own homes and that.
0:45:45 > 0:45:47Over the years, it's gone worldwide.
0:45:47 > 0:45:50The food that you can get is very much global.
0:45:50 > 0:45:54That's just increased what we can do on the menu on a day-to-day basis.
0:45:54 > 0:45:57This dish that we're doing has got some of the old
0:45:57 > 0:46:00and some of the new in it and some of the things that we do now
0:46:00 > 0:46:02we certainly wouldn't have seen in 1960.
0:46:03 > 0:46:07Barry is cooking up an adventurous dish of baked aubergine with
0:46:07 > 0:46:11a spicy stuffing, plum sauce and Dauphinoise potatoes.
0:46:11 > 0:46:14It's well acceptable for vegetarians
0:46:14 > 0:46:17and also it's a little bit of meaty flavour from the tamari,
0:46:17 > 0:46:19protein from the nuts.
0:46:19 > 0:46:22Yeah, it's quite a good all-round dish.
0:46:22 > 0:46:25There's a whole host of goodies in there
0:46:25 > 0:46:29from onions and carrots to oatmeal, grated nuts and tamari spice.
0:46:29 > 0:46:31That's all the components of the dish ready.
0:46:31 > 0:46:35It's just a matter of putting it together and plating it up.
0:46:35 > 0:46:37It's one of my favourite dishes and it seems to be one of the most
0:46:37 > 0:46:41popular dishes with the customers that come in in the evening.
0:46:41 > 0:46:43With the guests arriving,
0:46:43 > 0:46:46Catherine puts the finishing touches to her soup.
0:46:46 > 0:46:47I'm looking forward to this evening.
0:46:47 > 0:46:50Hopefully, we've got about six or eight people
0:46:50 > 0:46:53who used to come in in the '60s,
0:46:53 > 0:46:55so it'll be fun to see them.
0:46:55 > 0:46:58Then we also have a younger group.
0:46:58 > 0:47:01It's a combination of the old and the new.
0:47:01 > 0:47:04I think it'll be great fun and I'm looking forward to it very much.
0:47:04 > 0:47:06It'll be a nice celebration.
0:47:08 > 0:47:11There we go, leek and potato soup.
0:47:14 > 0:47:18The food is going down a treat, and for the original Henderson's generation
0:47:18 > 0:47:20it brings back a few memories.
0:47:22 > 0:47:25Cuisine in Scotland was relatively primitive.
0:47:25 > 0:47:29Our access to a wide range of interesting,
0:47:29 > 0:47:33fresh vegetables was limited.
0:47:34 > 0:47:38One came to Henderson's not only for the excellent company,
0:47:38 > 0:47:42because it seemed a very cosmopolitan place to come in those days,
0:47:42 > 0:47:46but also for the quality of food and the diversity of food.
0:47:46 > 0:47:49It's much easier to be vegetarian nowadays, of course.
0:47:49 > 0:47:53In those days it was omelettes or pasta, really, that was about it.
0:47:53 > 0:47:57I can't even remember if we had pizzas, then, did we? I suppose we did.
0:47:57 > 0:48:00It grabbed people's imagination because it was the place to come
0:48:00 > 0:48:01and it was very exciting.
0:48:01 > 0:48:04Although it was very popular, it was your special secret and it was wonderful.
0:48:04 > 0:48:07But the younger generations are enjoying it all too.
0:48:07 > 0:48:09It's definitely one of my favourite places.
0:48:09 > 0:48:11I come here all the time, it's really good.
0:48:11 > 0:48:16I've only been coming here for the six years I've been in Edinburgh but you constantly see people
0:48:16 > 0:48:21and they've been coming here for a really long time. It really is part of the community of Edinburgh.
0:48:21 > 0:48:26The only reason I came here was to get their ginger, soured cream
0:48:26 > 0:48:28and figs pudding. It was a winner.
0:48:28 > 0:48:32Nobody else in Scotland does it and it is really wonderful.
0:48:32 > 0:48:35They're still doing it after 50 years.
0:48:35 > 0:48:36I love it as much as ever.
0:48:36 > 0:48:40I could eat the same again. It's quite special.
0:48:42 > 0:48:44From pioneering vegetarian food of the '60s
0:48:44 > 0:48:47with a passion for wholesome nutrition...
0:48:47 > 0:48:51To an Edinburgh landmark with the best that veggie cooking has to offer.
0:48:51 > 0:48:54Here's to another 50 years.
0:48:57 > 0:48:58# Sweets for my sweet
0:48:58 > 0:49:01# Sugar for my honey... #
0:49:01 > 0:49:06The '60s was a decade where it was finally OK to indulge your sweet tooth.
0:49:06 > 0:49:09And our final recipe is as decadent as it is delicious.
0:49:14 > 0:49:16Like so many of our groovy '60s dishes,
0:49:16 > 0:49:19profiteroles were originally a French dish
0:49:19 > 0:49:22but now they seem as British as pie and chips.
0:49:22 > 0:49:25They do, mate, they do. And, you know, our love affair with the profiterole,
0:49:25 > 0:49:30that beautifully choux pastry filled with the most fantastic
0:49:30 > 0:49:35Chantilly cream, started really in the 1960s, didn't it?
0:49:35 > 0:49:40- Yeah, I mean, they were light, fun and naughty...- Yeah! - ..and we loved them.
0:49:40 > 0:49:43They were a million miles away from jam roly-poly and spotted Dick!
0:49:43 > 0:49:47Come on! You're loving it, aren't you? You are!
0:49:47 > 0:49:51So let's shoop-shoop away and make choux pastry.
0:49:52 > 0:49:56Begin by melting 50 grams of butter in water and bring it to a simmer.
0:49:58 > 0:50:02Next, sieve 75 grams of plain flour into a bowl.
0:50:04 > 0:50:07To that, add a teaspoon of caster sugar.
0:50:09 > 0:50:11Give that a mix around.
0:50:11 > 0:50:16With a wooden spoon, beat the flour and sugar into the fat and water.
0:50:16 > 0:50:19- Now, it's important that the fat and water has to be boiling.- Yeah.
0:50:19 > 0:50:25- It has to be on the bubble. - Erm, beat it, dum-de-dum.
0:50:25 > 0:50:27Take it off the heat.
0:50:28 > 0:50:30Now we beat this for a couple of minutes
0:50:30 > 0:50:34until it starts to form as one and cool down a bit.
0:50:34 > 0:50:38Look, it comes away from the pan.
0:50:38 > 0:50:42It just starts to almost take a different form.
0:50:42 > 0:50:44# Shaking all over... #
0:50:45 > 0:50:47After two or three minutes,
0:50:47 > 0:50:50the mixture will have cooled enough to add two beaten eggs.
0:50:50 > 0:50:52# Shaking all over... #
0:50:55 > 0:50:59Whisk it well and slowly add the egg, bit by bit.
0:50:59 > 0:51:02# Well, you make me shake it
0:51:02 > 0:51:04# And I like it, baby... #
0:51:06 > 0:51:09And that is your choux pastry.
0:51:10 > 0:51:14But, you know, Kingy, nobody really knows where profiteroles
0:51:14 > 0:51:17came from but choux pastry is very interesting.
0:51:17 > 0:51:21Actually, it was first invented by the Parisian patissier Jean Avice
0:51:21 > 0:51:25when he made what we know as choux pastry kind of balls
0:51:25 > 0:51:29and he called them "choux" because choux is French for cabbage,
0:51:29 > 0:51:33they looked like little tiny cabbages. Thus, choux pastry was born.
0:51:33 > 0:51:36- Cabbage pastry(?)- No.
0:51:36 > 0:51:38It just looked like one.
0:51:41 > 0:51:43Next, take two spoons and dunk them in water
0:51:43 > 0:51:46so the pastry mixture doesn't stick.
0:51:47 > 0:51:49Start dividing the mix into small blobs,
0:51:49 > 0:51:53about the size of walnuts, onto a baking tray lined with parchment.
0:51:58 > 0:52:02You should get about 18 profiteroles out of this mixture.
0:52:04 > 0:52:06Pop these into a preheated oven,
0:52:06 > 0:52:10180 degrees Celsius for 25 to 30 minutes
0:52:10 > 0:52:16until you have choux pastry explosions that will become profiteroles.
0:52:22 > 0:52:23While they're cooking in the oven,
0:52:23 > 0:52:27what we're going to do is... I've got two bain-maries here.
0:52:27 > 0:52:30What we're going to do, we're going to start to make the chocolate sauce.
0:52:30 > 0:52:32One bain-marie is for dark chocolate,
0:52:32 > 0:52:34- the other one for the white chocolate.- Brilliant!
0:52:34 > 0:52:38Basically a bain-marie is a pan of water that's heated over the hob.
0:52:38 > 0:52:42The steam will heat the bowl to melt the chocolate without burning it.
0:52:42 > 0:52:46We have 75 grams of dark chocolate,
0:52:46 > 0:52:50100 grams of white chocolate.
0:52:50 > 0:52:56To the chocolate, we're going to add 125 millilitres of cream.
0:52:58 > 0:53:00We melt those, slowly.
0:53:04 > 0:53:06While the chocolate's melting Dave's going to get on with
0:53:06 > 0:53:10the vanilla cream that's going to be at the heart of these profiteroles.
0:53:13 > 0:53:15Take 350 millilitres of double cream.
0:53:17 > 0:53:19Add one tablespoon of caster sugar
0:53:19 > 0:53:22and then a quarter of a teaspoon of vanilla extract.
0:53:27 > 0:53:29Whip it up until it's thick.
0:53:33 > 0:53:36I can feel my cream is thickening already.
0:53:42 > 0:53:44Pop it in the fridge until later.
0:53:46 > 0:53:50- Kingy.- What?- Do you know the biggest profiterole ever crafted in the world...- No.
0:53:50 > 0:53:57..was 57.15 kilograms, 126 lb, and it was crafted in Wisconsin
0:53:57 > 0:54:02by Dave Schmidt at the Wisconsin Bakers' Association.
0:54:02 > 0:54:06Can you imagine that? Over a hundredweight of profiterole.
0:54:06 > 0:54:09- It was a whopper! - That's a house. It's a car.
0:54:09 > 0:54:11- That's a lot of Chantilly. - Can you imagine piping that?
0:54:11 > 0:54:14- They'd have to do it with a hosepipe.- Trust the Americans.
0:54:14 > 0:54:16They always have to do it bigger, don't they?
0:54:16 > 0:54:19They always have to do it bigger and better
0:54:19 > 0:54:21but you don't, because bigger isn't better.
0:54:21 > 0:54:23They're profiteroles,
0:54:23 > 0:54:25they're supposed to be delicate little mouths.
0:54:25 > 0:54:27You don't want to drive a car into it!
0:54:29 > 0:54:32Right, rant over, when the chocolate's melted, give it a stir.
0:54:39 > 0:54:42The white chocolate might initially go yellow but don't worry,
0:54:42 > 0:54:46it'll go back to white again when it cools down.
0:54:49 > 0:54:52The choux pastry has been in the oven for 25 minutes now
0:54:52 > 0:54:55so it's best to have a look.
0:54:56 > 0:55:02Look. Those little balls of pastry have puffed up. Amazing.
0:55:02 > 0:55:05It never ceases to amaze me when I see those little dollops,
0:55:05 > 0:55:08I always think it's never going to work but it always does.
0:55:08 > 0:55:10Now, with a clean, dry tea towel,
0:55:10 > 0:55:16you take them off the rack, turn them upside-down and all we do,
0:55:16 > 0:55:20gently, is just make a little hole in the bottom.
0:55:20 > 0:55:22But, this is the top tip.
0:55:22 > 0:55:26What you need to do is turn them upside-down
0:55:26 > 0:55:30so that the hole faces up to allow the steam to escape.
0:55:30 > 0:55:33We need a pretty decent sized hole
0:55:33 > 0:55:35because I've got to get the nozzle in.
0:55:35 > 0:55:37# Sweets for my sweet
0:55:37 > 0:55:39# Sugar for my honey... #
0:55:39 > 0:55:43Once the scrumptious pastry balls have cooled for 4-5 minutes,
0:55:43 > 0:55:45you can begin piping the cream in.
0:55:45 > 0:55:49# I'll never ever let you go... #
0:55:52 > 0:55:55While Dave's getting on with that, I'm going
0:55:55 > 0:55:58to add three tablespoons of just boiled water to the dark chocolate
0:55:58 > 0:56:03and cream mixture to create a lovely hot sauce.
0:56:06 > 0:56:11So there we go. Nice, warm, flowing, look at that.
0:56:11 > 0:56:14Oh, man. He-he!
0:56:16 > 0:56:17So...
0:56:17 > 0:56:19Now, this is the good bit.
0:56:19 > 0:56:21You can have some fun with this now.
0:56:21 > 0:56:23Dribbling like Denis Law.
0:56:23 > 0:56:25Look at that.
0:56:26 > 0:56:29Dribbling like Georgie Best in his prime.
0:56:29 > 0:56:31Gorgeous.
0:56:32 > 0:56:35But how many times have you been to a restaurant and it comes to the
0:56:35 > 0:56:40pudding and profiteroles are on the menu and you kind of think,
0:56:40 > 0:56:44let's have the profiteroles, because you know you're all right there.
0:56:44 > 0:56:47Now we use the cool...
0:56:47 > 0:56:50And it's funny that white chocolate sauce...it doesn't set, does it?
0:56:50 > 0:56:52No, it doesn't.
0:56:52 > 0:56:55Whereas the dark chocolate one without the hot water would set.
0:56:57 > 0:56:59Oh, man.
0:57:00 > 0:57:05- It is of its time, though, isn't it?- It certainly is.
0:57:05 > 0:57:10I could just sit back, eat those and watch Steptoe And Son.
0:57:10 > 0:57:13Or Rowan & Martin's Laugh-in.
0:57:13 > 0:57:17- Do you remember that? You don't, do you?- No, I don't.
0:57:23 > 0:57:26- It's brilliant.- Oh...
0:57:26 > 0:57:33It's an Anglo-French best-of-British marriage.
0:57:33 > 0:57:37- This certainly is a roll that you're going to profit from.- It is.
0:57:37 > 0:57:39Oh, groovy.
0:57:39 > 0:57:42I told you they didn't really say that in the '60s.
0:57:46 > 0:57:48The '60s really was the era
0:57:48 > 0:57:52where eating in the UK got its post-war Mojo back.
0:57:55 > 0:57:58Food, like fashion and music, was groundbreaking, decadent
0:57:58 > 0:58:01and put a spring into your swinging step.
0:58:03 > 0:58:07It might be 50 years ago but the 1960s will always be a decade
0:58:07 > 0:58:11that changed the world for ever and food for the better.
0:58:11 > 0:58:14And if you want to get hip, for some of the recipes in today's show,
0:58:14 > 0:58:16then log onto...
0:58:20 > 0:58:23- Groovy!- Oh, shurrup!
0:58:46 > 0:58:50Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd