0:00:02 > 0:00:06We believe Britain has the best food in the world.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11Our glorious country boasts some fantastic ingredients.
0:00:11 > 0:00:14Start eating it, will you?!
0:00:14 > 0:00:16It's home to amazing producers.
0:00:16 > 0:00:21My goodness gracious. That is epic. Isn't it?
0:00:21 > 0:00:24And innovative chefs.
0:00:24 > 0:00:27But our islands also have a fascinating food history.
0:00:27 > 0:00:33The fish and chip shops of South Wales are running out of chips.
0:00:34 > 0:00:36BOTH: Yes!
0:00:36 > 0:00:39And in this series, we're uncovering revealing stories
0:00:39 > 0:00:40of our rich culinary past.
0:00:41 > 0:00:45Now there is food history on a plate.
0:00:45 > 0:00:47As well as meeting our nation's food heroes,
0:00:47 > 0:00:50who are keeping this heritage alive.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53Let's have them enjoying themselves. It's a short life,
0:00:53 > 0:00:56let's make it a happy one, like they always have had.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59And, of course, we'll be cooking up a load of dishes
0:00:59 > 0:01:01that reveal our foodie evolution.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06Spring, summer, autumn or winter. It's brilliant.
0:01:07 > 0:01:10BOTH: Quite simply the best of British!
0:01:29 > 0:01:31COW MOOS
0:01:34 > 0:01:36British dairy produce is some of the best in the world.
0:01:36 > 0:01:38And you know what? We love it.
0:01:38 > 0:01:42Whilst our weather may be no good for Wimbledon, it's ace for grass.
0:01:42 > 0:01:47- And luscious grass means wonderful milk and loads of it.- He's not wrong.
0:01:47 > 0:01:50And, you see, the thing is, the industry has defined
0:01:50 > 0:01:53the land that we walk on and the way that we eat.
0:01:53 > 0:01:57So today's programme is a homage to the traditions
0:01:57 > 0:01:59of the great British dairy industry.
0:01:59 > 0:02:01That's enough now, stop milking it.
0:02:01 > 0:02:02COW MOOS
0:02:04 > 0:02:07No doubt, Kingy. we Brits love our milk.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10It's one of the most versatile foodstuffs around,
0:02:10 > 0:02:13giving us all manner of dairy delicacies, like butter, cheese
0:02:13 > 0:02:16yoghurt and cream.
0:02:16 > 0:02:19Today, we'll be exploring our historical relationship
0:02:19 > 0:02:22- with the white stuff. - Recreating a great British classic
0:02:22 > 0:02:26and discovering the story behind our best-loved cheese.
0:02:27 > 0:02:28BOTH: Way to go, cows!
0:02:33 > 0:02:36Throughout our history, milk has been held in high esteem.
0:02:37 > 0:02:41As ancient as mankind itself, it's so central to our way of life
0:02:41 > 0:02:45that there have been times we've been willing to fight for it.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48It's the elixir of life.
0:02:48 > 0:02:51All right, milk monitors, give out the milk.
0:02:55 > 0:03:00And, in many minds, it's fundamental to the healthy growth of our young.
0:03:01 > 0:03:03Milk! Urgh. >
0:03:03 > 0:03:04It's what Ian Rush drinks.
0:03:04 > 0:03:06Ian Rush?
0:03:06 > 0:03:10Yeah. And he said if I didn't drink lots of milk, when I grow up,
0:03:10 > 0:03:13I'll only be good enough to play for Accrington Stanley.
0:03:13 > 0:03:16Accrington Stanley! Who are they?
0:03:16 > 0:03:17Exactly.
0:03:20 > 0:03:24Milk was believed to be so important to our children's health that,
0:03:24 > 0:03:27in 1946, the School Milk Act introduced free milk
0:03:27 > 0:03:29for all schoolchildren.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32After the Second World War, the Government made it
0:03:32 > 0:03:34their mission to eradicate many of the diseases
0:03:34 > 0:03:37related to poor nutrition.
0:03:37 > 0:03:40Milk was known to provide vitamin B, D and calcium
0:03:40 > 0:03:44and was seen as crucial to prevent diseases like rickets.
0:03:44 > 0:03:48So, for years, the schoolchildren of this country were able
0:03:48 > 0:03:51to enjoy a little bottle of usually warm and slightly gone off milk
0:03:51 > 0:03:56- in the classroom. - But all that changed in 1971.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00'From September, the only school children who will get free milk
0:04:00 > 0:04:05'are the under-sevens and those who are actually sick or weak.'
0:04:05 > 0:04:08The then Education Secretary had to make some cuts
0:04:08 > 0:04:10and made the decision to end free milk
0:04:10 > 0:04:13for seven to 11-year-olds in primary schools.
0:04:13 > 0:04:20It became a hugely notorious episode in Mrs Thatcher's long career.
0:04:20 > 0:04:22I really think that this is
0:04:22 > 0:04:26one of those very big mistakes of Government.
0:04:26 > 0:04:29When my child first came and told me, I was quite upset about it.
0:04:29 > 0:04:31It seems a peculiar situation altogether.
0:04:38 > 0:04:41- What do you think about not getting a proper bottle of milk? - Not fair.
0:04:41 > 0:04:45I don't think it's fair, because I like milk.
0:04:47 > 0:04:48Some councils were so outraged,
0:04:48 > 0:04:52they took the law into their own hands and decided to defy the ruling.
0:04:52 > 0:04:57The children at this junior school in South Wales are among the very few left in Britain
0:04:57 > 0:05:00who still go through the familiar ritual
0:05:00 > 0:05:01of drinking their mid-morning milk.
0:05:01 > 0:05:05And they are going to go on getting it, whatever the Government says.
0:05:05 > 0:05:09And they say they'll go even further - if necessary, to prison.
0:05:09 > 0:05:13But Maggie didn't bottle it, she stuck to her guns.
0:05:13 > 0:05:15Now there have, inevitably, Madam Chairman,
0:05:15 > 0:05:19been some comments about the milk policy.
0:05:19 > 0:05:24Soon the resistance petered out and we came to accept the loss.
0:05:24 > 0:05:26But it was never forgotten.
0:05:26 > 0:05:29My granddad says he used to get half a pint of milk
0:05:29 > 0:05:31and he wanted me to get it,
0:05:31 > 0:05:34so I could get healthy bones and stuff like that.
0:05:38 > 0:05:40Of course, we don't just drink milk.
0:05:40 > 0:05:43We've been using it as a culinary ingredient for hundreds of years.
0:05:43 > 0:05:47And one of the most impressive uses was during the Georgian era,
0:05:47 > 0:05:50when milk was celebrated in gelatinous form.
0:05:50 > 0:05:52So we're off to revisit our gastronomic past
0:05:52 > 0:05:57with our old mate and historic food mastermind, Ivan Day.
0:05:57 > 0:05:59Ivan, we're here to talk about we British
0:05:59 > 0:06:00and our love of milky puddings.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03From what I see here, and from what I guess,
0:06:03 > 0:06:05it's going to be a bit more exciting
0:06:05 > 0:06:08than school blancmange and sloppy custard.
0:06:08 > 0:06:10We once had amazing milk puddings.
0:06:10 > 0:06:15If we go back a few hundred years to the 18th century, you might,
0:06:15 > 0:06:19if you happened to go to Manchester, meet up with this lady,
0:06:19 > 0:06:23- who I would call the mother of all milk puddings.- Elizabeth Raffald.
0:06:23 > 0:06:26She published this book in 1769 and it's a really...
0:06:26 > 0:06:29It's one of the best English recipe books of all time.
0:06:29 > 0:06:35She devotes a whole chapter to creams and other dairy puddings.
0:06:35 > 0:06:40So there are recipes for syllabubs, possets, blancmanges
0:06:40 > 0:06:42and something called flummery,
0:06:42 > 0:06:45which I think is one that is well worth making today.
0:06:46 > 0:06:49A flummery was originally a peasant dish made by soaking oatmeal
0:06:49 > 0:06:51in water for three or four days.
0:06:51 > 0:06:55The oatmeal was then probably given to the chickens.
0:06:55 > 0:06:57While the water was decanted and boiled,
0:06:57 > 0:06:59until it became a bit like wallpaper paste
0:06:59 > 0:07:01and formed a sort of jelly.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03Then they'd flavour it with sugar and spice
0:07:03 > 0:07:05before setting it in a flummery mould.
0:07:05 > 0:07:08It was essentially blancmange with a British accent.
0:07:09 > 0:07:13Blancmange actually goes back, probably, to the Middle East.
0:07:13 > 0:07:17We think of it being French because of the name - blanc manger.
0:07:17 > 0:07:22Before that, the Italians had it and they called it the biancomangiare, OK.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25But before that, there was a dish in Ottoman Turkey,
0:07:25 > 0:07:27which still exists, but it is a dish that's got meat in it.
0:07:27 > 0:07:31It's got chicken breast, it's got almonds, it's got rosewater
0:07:31 > 0:07:32and it's got sugar and cream.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35And the biancomangiare of Italy was like that
0:07:35 > 0:07:38and so was the original blanc manger of France.
0:07:38 > 0:07:39It had capon's breast in it.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44Thankfully, the meaty element has fallen out of favour,
0:07:44 > 0:07:47although, in recent years, we've been left with the opposite end
0:07:47 > 0:07:51of the pudding spectrum - bland, unadventurous
0:07:51 > 0:07:52and mostly out of a packet.
0:07:53 > 0:07:56But there was once a middle ground.
0:07:58 > 0:08:01FANFARE
0:08:01 > 0:08:05In the 18th century, it was amazing what could be achieved.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07With a mould and a bit of food dye
0:08:07 > 0:08:10a flummery could be transformed into birds' eggs,
0:08:10 > 0:08:14cribbage cards, and there was even a flummery fry-up.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17And we can't wait to have a go ourselves.
0:08:17 > 0:08:21So we're going to make our variance on flummery called jaunemange.
0:08:21 > 0:08:25- Jaunemange.- Jaunemange - "yellow blancmange". Right.
0:08:25 > 0:08:27So these are the ingredients.
0:08:27 > 0:08:30We've got half a pint of water
0:08:30 > 0:08:34and we're going to put into that some gelatine.
0:08:34 > 0:08:39We'll immediately put it over on the heat over here.
0:08:39 > 0:08:43This is half a pint of wine, white wine.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46- Dave, could you cut that Seville orange across that way.- Yeah.
0:08:46 > 0:08:51If you could squeeze that and strain it into that little pot.
0:08:51 > 0:08:57Seville oranges, I mean they were used in all sorts of dishes.
0:08:58 > 0:09:02We're also adding the zest of half an orange and some sugar.
0:09:02 > 0:09:06Next, we're beating in four egg yolks using the natty utensil
0:09:06 > 0:09:08that looks like a witch's broom.
0:09:08 > 0:09:11Then it all goes back on a gentle heat.
0:09:11 > 0:09:15That's now beginning to thicken up - a bit like a custard.
0:09:16 > 0:09:20So what we'll do is we'll strain the orange out.
0:09:20 > 0:09:23Once you've done that and it's cool,
0:09:23 > 0:09:28you want a quarter of a pint of thin single cream.
0:09:28 > 0:09:33Once that's completely cool, and not before, we can put it in the mould.
0:09:36 > 0:09:39And the inside of this mould has been lined with fat, not oil,
0:09:39 > 0:09:43as the oil will float on top and render your milk pud
0:09:43 > 0:09:44well and truly stuck.
0:09:44 > 0:09:48Whilst we wait for this little beaut to set, Ivan's going to show us
0:09:48 > 0:09:52some of the other flummeries he has in his repertoire.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55The thing is, though, how do we get them out the moulds?
0:09:55 > 0:10:00With difficulty, and sometimes with an enormous amount of stress,
0:10:00 > 0:10:03you know, because I have a failure rate of about one in nine.
0:10:03 > 0:10:04- Oh, no.- That's pretty good.
0:10:04 > 0:10:08It is pretty good, but, the thing is, what you do is,
0:10:08 > 0:10:12- as I showed you, we line these with a little bit of fat.- Yeah.- Right.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15What you've got to do is push down like that
0:10:15 > 0:10:18and that's looking as if it's going to come out.
0:10:18 > 0:10:20Then, the best thing, the easiest way to do it,
0:10:20 > 0:10:22is to do the Tommy Cooper thing,
0:10:22 > 0:10:27- where you actually go like that. Are you ready?- BOTH: Yes.
0:10:27 > 0:10:30And then... This one is one of my favourites.
0:10:30 > 0:10:34- It was probably the most popular jelly ever...- BOTH: Wow!
0:10:34 > 0:10:39..in the history of... Well, it's not a jelly, it's a flummery,
0:10:39 > 0:10:42but just watch what this fellow does, OK.
0:10:42 > 0:10:44# Let's do the wobble. #
0:10:44 > 0:10:47- This!- It looks like something from the alien...- It does!
0:10:47 > 0:10:49It's fantastic, isn't it?!
0:10:49 > 0:10:50LAUGHTER
0:10:50 > 0:10:54I mean, have you ever seen anything like that?
0:10:54 > 0:10:55Not for a while!
0:10:55 > 0:10:58- It will... - LAUGHTER
0:10:58 > 0:11:00Not on the telly, Ivan, no!
0:11:00 > 0:11:05- Trust you!- It will do absolutely anything you want it to.
0:11:05 > 0:11:09That's extraordinary. No, I can imagine.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12When you see the mould, you have no idea, you know!
0:11:12 > 0:11:14A dancing flummery.
0:11:14 > 0:11:16Go on, have a go, Simon.
0:11:16 > 0:11:20It will... If you do a jig, it will just dance with you.
0:11:20 > 0:11:22- Do you come here often? - Celebrity Come Dancing.
0:11:22 > 0:11:27It's fantastic. Hey, man, that's brilliant. I've found a new friend.
0:11:27 > 0:11:29That's an amazing thing.
0:11:29 > 0:11:31Now related to that is probably, for me,
0:11:31 > 0:11:35the most spectacular flummery of all.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38This is the tricky one, because I'm going to try and get it
0:11:38 > 0:11:42onto this very beautiful 18th-century salver.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45- That is beautiful, isn't it? - I just hope that it comes out.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49- BOTH: Oh, wow! Look at colours! Wow!- OK.
0:11:49 > 0:11:52- Oh, hey, man. - Now, look at that.
0:11:52 > 0:11:55That's called Solomon's Temple. This is a real Georgian dish.
0:11:55 > 0:11:57This is what food looked like in the 18th century.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00I bet you've never seen anything like that in your life before.
0:12:00 > 0:12:04Imagine, when the waiter comes to the table with it
0:12:04 > 0:12:07and he's holding the salver like this.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09It must have caused an uproar.
0:12:11 > 0:12:15Now, if I can get this one off.
0:12:15 > 0:12:16Oh, wow!
0:12:16 > 0:12:21- And that.- What!- That has get a wow factor.- Isn't that fantastic?
0:12:21 > 0:12:24Pineapple would've been so expensive and exotic, too.
0:12:24 > 0:12:27Well, let's crack on, because, obviously,
0:12:27 > 0:12:30this is the one you made earlier on.
0:12:30 > 0:12:33This is your jaunemange, the yellow blancmange
0:12:33 > 0:12:36with the lovely Seville orange flavour.
0:12:37 > 0:12:39'The question is, will it come out in one piece?'
0:12:46 > 0:12:49- Fantastic.- Well done. - That's fabulous.
0:12:49 > 0:12:53Ee, Ivan, this must be the ultimate dairy experience.
0:12:57 > 0:12:59It makes those milk puddings
0:12:59 > 0:13:01and blancmanges of schooldays
0:13:01 > 0:13:03look so incredibly primitive.
0:13:03 > 0:13:05- We've lost our way, haven't we? - I think so.
0:13:05 > 0:13:07It's worth reviving some of these.
0:13:07 > 0:13:12The jaunemange, the "yellow mange", instead of blanc - white - mange.
0:13:12 > 0:13:13I think we should taste it,
0:13:13 > 0:13:18because, you know, it's got Seville orange juice in it.
0:13:18 > 0:13:19Mmm.
0:13:20 > 0:13:24- It's lovely. It's very, very fresh and light.- Wow.
0:13:24 > 0:13:25It's good, isn't it?
0:13:25 > 0:13:27I wasn't expecting that at all. It is really good.
0:13:27 > 0:13:31'We think it's high time we reignited our love for the milk pudding.
0:13:31 > 0:13:34- 'But if all this looks a bit too elaborate...- Or risque.
0:13:34 > 0:13:37'..to try at home, we're going to show you another
0:13:37 > 0:13:41'historical British dairy recipe that's sure to impress.'
0:13:41 > 0:13:44Cream is a wonderful dairy product,
0:13:44 > 0:13:49but it's sheer luxury that sometimes can be quite overwhelming.
0:13:49 > 0:13:53It can and we're doing something overwhelming today. Oh, aren't we?
0:13:53 > 0:13:57- We are.- That celebrates the great British dairy produce
0:13:57 > 0:13:59in its entirety.
0:13:59 > 0:14:02It's unctuous, it's velvety, it's boozy,
0:14:02 > 0:14:04it's all the things that you love.
0:14:05 > 0:14:07'This is a Trinity cream,
0:14:07 > 0:14:11'a scintillating combination of cream, Irish cream liqueur
0:14:11 > 0:14:12'and chocolate.
0:14:12 > 0:14:14'It looks rather like a French creme brulee.
0:14:14 > 0:14:19- 'But this is its richer... - And tougher.- ..British cousin.'
0:14:19 > 0:14:24Guess what, a key element to all cookery is flame and a pan.
0:14:26 > 0:14:27And cream.
0:14:28 > 0:14:35- Dreamy cream.- Now...- Double cream. - 500 millilitres of cream goes in.
0:14:35 > 0:14:38And this is good quality white chocolate.
0:14:38 > 0:14:41Look at those vanilla seeds just sitting there.
0:14:41 > 0:14:45- Proper Madagascan vanilla.- Right.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49Just break them up. And, look, it's a gentle heat,
0:14:49 > 0:14:54so just nice and gently, just melt it together and stir it.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58Not constantly, but certainly regularly.
0:14:58 > 0:15:03It has been said, quite wrongly, that the British invented creme brulee.
0:15:03 > 0:15:05It's a myth, the French did.
0:15:05 > 0:15:09But in the 19th century, recipes appeared for Trinity cream,
0:15:09 > 0:15:12or Cambridge burnt cream, and that is British.
0:15:12 > 0:15:16It has a thicker top and less sugar than the French version.
0:15:16 > 0:15:19You can just see now how the chocolate is starting
0:15:19 > 0:15:23to release those beautiful vanilla seeds of flav... Oh!
0:15:23 > 0:15:27I'm getting transfixed, man.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30To six egg yolks, we put in some caster sugar.
0:15:30 > 0:15:35- SIBILANTLY:- 75 grams. - Of caster sugar.- Yes.
0:15:35 > 0:15:38IRISH ACCENT: Now, a nice big glass of Irish cream.
0:15:38 > 0:15:41Just plop that in with your eggs and sugar.
0:15:41 > 0:15:43Whisk this till it's fluffy.
0:15:46 > 0:15:48The story goes that this pud
0:15:48 > 0:15:51got its name from Trinity College Cambridge.
0:15:51 > 0:15:54Apparently, an undergraduate offered his boozy recipe
0:15:54 > 0:15:56to the college kitchens, but they rejected it.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59It was only when this student became a fellow of the university
0:15:59 > 0:16:03and presented his recipe again that it was taken seriously.
0:16:03 > 0:16:05And the name "Trinity cream" stuck.
0:16:08 > 0:16:11Now just slowly mix in the creamy white chocolate.
0:16:20 > 0:16:21Right, there we are,
0:16:21 > 0:16:25all the chocolate and cream have gone in successfully.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27Just like Ivan showed us with his flummeries,
0:16:27 > 0:16:30we're greasing the bowl with fat - in this case, butter.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33Now we just pour that in there.
0:16:37 > 0:16:38Oh!
0:16:39 > 0:16:41That'll do.
0:16:42 > 0:16:46And place that into a roasting tin.
0:16:46 > 0:16:48And with just-off-the-boil water...
0:16:48 > 0:16:51Fill that up pretty high, I would've thought.
0:16:51 > 0:16:54Because it's quite a high dish, isn't it?
0:16:54 > 0:16:59Now we put that into a low oven - 130 degrees Celsius for a fan oven -
0:16:59 > 0:17:04for about 45 minutes, until the custard is set to a light wobble.
0:17:09 > 0:17:11Now this pudding wouldn't be complete
0:17:11 > 0:17:13without a bit of crunch on the side.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16So we're going to make some dippy biscuits, or langues du chat,
0:17:16 > 0:17:19to provide that contrast with the wobble of the Trinity cream.
0:17:21 > 0:17:23- Have you done? - Should be done, mate.
0:17:23 > 0:17:24It should have a nice wobble on it.
0:17:24 > 0:17:27- Nicely browned on top. - BOTH: Oh, yes.
0:17:29 > 0:17:30Perfectomundo.
0:17:30 > 0:17:34That is a perfect example of what we mean by a "wobble on".
0:17:34 > 0:17:37I mean, look at that. It's wobbling just like you used to do
0:17:37 > 0:17:40when you were sitting on a rocking chair before the diet.
0:17:40 > 0:17:42- It's true. - # Blum, blum, blum, blum #
0:17:42 > 0:17:45I'm going to take this out of the bain-marie.
0:17:45 > 0:17:47Leave it to cool on the side
0:17:47 > 0:17:50and then I'm going to chill it in the fridge.
0:17:50 > 0:17:53This gives us time to make the langues du chat,
0:17:53 > 0:17:55the cat's tongues dippy biscuits.
0:17:55 > 0:17:58So, before then, we'll turn the oven up to 200.
0:17:58 > 0:18:00- Are you going to blend? - I'll blend.- I'll zest.
0:18:00 > 0:18:05We've got some icing sugar, some butter.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08And guess what we'll do with that?
0:18:08 > 0:18:09We'll blend it together.
0:18:15 > 0:18:17Now look, before it starts to cream,
0:18:17 > 0:18:20it will go the consistency of scrambled egg.
0:18:20 > 0:18:21Oh, now it's going.
0:18:23 > 0:18:28- And just beat it until it's quite light.- Nice.
0:18:29 > 0:18:33- Half teaspoon-ish of cinnamon. - Thank you.
0:18:33 > 0:18:35Half a teaspoon-ish of vanilla extract.
0:18:38 > 0:18:40I'll give it a whiz. C'est magnifique.
0:18:43 > 0:18:45'Into that goes the zest of half an orange.'
0:18:46 > 0:18:49Then two egg whites, one at a time.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52Now your mix might split at this point, but don't worry,
0:18:52 > 0:18:56when you add the flour, it will all come back together.
0:18:59 > 0:19:03Hoof it into a piping bag.
0:19:03 > 0:19:08And just pipe these out about six centimetres long.
0:19:08 > 0:19:10'These will spread out and flatten as they cook,'
0:19:10 > 0:19:12so give them room to grow.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15'You might be surprised at how many you get.'
0:19:15 > 0:19:17Pop these into a preheated oven,
0:19:17 > 0:19:20a hot oven, 230 degrees Celsius for a fan oven,
0:19:20 > 0:19:21for six to eight minutes
0:19:21 > 0:19:24until they've just started to go brown around the edges.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30Six to eight minutes and counting.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41Just brown around the edges. That's how we like our langues de chat.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45And, I think you'll notice, they're all perfect.
0:19:45 > 0:19:50- Eh, yeah, dude, they are.- And these are best left to cool on the tray.
0:19:50 > 0:19:55- Don't eat them!- Why? They're nice. Tell you what, dude.- Yeah? - They're hot.
0:19:55 > 0:19:57- I've just taken them out the oven, you buffoon.- I know.
0:19:57 > 0:20:01'I'll just get the is out of the way so I can expect the bowl of wobble.'
0:20:03 > 0:20:08- There we go. Now look it's firmed up lovely.- Ooh, yes.- Hasn't it?
0:20:08 > 0:20:10LAUGHTER
0:20:10 > 0:20:13How do you know when there's an elephant in your fridge?
0:20:13 > 0:20:15It leaves its footprint!
0:20:15 > 0:20:18It's fine, because we're going to do the caramel topping.
0:20:18 > 0:20:21But it's a Trinity cream, so it's a thick topping.
0:20:22 > 0:20:24'Thick it might be, but quick it isn't.
0:20:24 > 0:20:27'There's no hurrying caramel.'
0:20:27 > 0:20:28Sugar goes in pan.
0:20:29 > 0:20:31Water goes in pan with sugar.
0:20:33 > 0:20:35Now, there are only two things to remember.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39First of all, never stir it. You can swoosh it.
0:20:41 > 0:20:42But don't stir it.
0:20:42 > 0:20:45The other thing is, the heat needs to be gentle enough
0:20:45 > 0:20:47not to burn the sugar,
0:20:47 > 0:20:51but it needs to be strong enough to melt the sugar.
0:20:51 > 0:20:52It's a waiting game.
0:20:55 > 0:20:59- It's like when you first go out in the sun, you're there on the beach. - Exactly.
0:20:59 > 0:21:01You're lying there, all white and pasty
0:21:01 > 0:21:03and you think, "It's not happening,
0:21:03 > 0:21:06"I'll never get a tan." Before you know it, woof!
0:21:06 > 0:21:10'It'll take about ten minutes before the sugar finally begins to turn.'
0:21:10 > 0:21:13But do not be tempted to dip your finger in it.
0:21:13 > 0:21:15No matter how inviting that may seem,
0:21:15 > 0:21:18'this stuff is hotter than the sun.'
0:21:18 > 0:21:20I do believe that caramel is upon us.
0:21:20 > 0:21:25- Now, when you start to smell it, give it a swoosh.- Mm.
0:21:25 > 0:21:28Yeah. Enough.
0:21:28 > 0:21:31The caramel will carry on cooking even off the heat.
0:21:31 > 0:21:32so let's get a shift on.
0:21:32 > 0:21:36To form a crunchy top, float the caramel over a lightly oiled spoon
0:21:36 > 0:21:38onto the top of the pud.
0:21:38 > 0:21:41You see, that's sitting beautifully on the top.
0:21:43 > 0:21:44And we leave that to set.
0:21:46 > 0:21:51And when it's set, to serve it, you'll get that wonderful crack.
0:21:51 > 0:21:52You crack into it.
0:21:54 > 0:21:57This is a tribute to a dairy product
0:21:57 > 0:22:00so fine, it's worth locking away under a topping so hard,
0:22:00 > 0:22:04it could be made of Trinity College's own roof slates.
0:22:04 > 0:22:08Oh! It's thick as the bowl!
0:22:09 > 0:22:12Ho-ho! That's nice and creamy.
0:22:12 > 0:22:13Isn't it?
0:22:15 > 0:22:18Oh, the glittering spires of academia.
0:22:18 > 0:22:21Trinity. Elevate your pinky.
0:22:24 > 0:22:28- Mm. That is the best of British dairy.- Yeah.
0:22:28 > 0:22:30If you want to do something as a salute to British cream,
0:22:30 > 0:22:33you want to go all the way, open out all the stops,
0:22:33 > 0:22:39turn on the taps, have a go at making our boozy Trinity cream.
0:22:41 > 0:22:44Whatever the dairy you're using in your cooking,
0:22:44 > 0:22:47the chances are the cattle that'll be supplying it
0:22:47 > 0:22:50are the big black-and-white Holstein Friesians
0:22:50 > 0:22:53that have come to dominate milk production in the UK.
0:22:53 > 0:22:55MOOING
0:22:55 > 0:22:58Yeah, it's reckoned up to 80% of our dairy herd
0:22:58 > 0:23:00is now made up of this high-yielding breed
0:23:00 > 0:23:03that was first imported from the Netherlands.
0:23:03 > 0:23:06But whilst Holsteins have gone on to global domination,
0:23:06 > 0:23:09one area of the British Isles has remained loyal to a dairy cow
0:23:09 > 0:23:14that's officially the world's second most popular breed.
0:23:14 > 0:23:1714 miles off the French coast, this island of Jersey
0:23:17 > 0:23:19is home to a breed of cow
0:23:19 > 0:23:22that is considered the gold top of the milk world.
0:23:22 > 0:23:27Darren Quenault owns and runs the last independent dairy on the island.
0:23:27 > 0:23:30And to him, Jerseys are perfect.
0:23:31 > 0:23:34The Jersey cow is the best cow in the world.
0:23:34 > 0:23:37She is not only the most beautiful, but it's been proven
0:23:37 > 0:23:40that she is the most efficient converter of food into milk,
0:23:40 > 0:23:43so from that point of view, there is no other breed.
0:23:43 > 0:23:46They're gorgeous, they're docile, they're beautiful,
0:23:46 > 0:23:50they're absolutely the piece de resistance of all the breeds.
0:23:50 > 0:23:52Everything else looks up to her.
0:23:52 > 0:23:55The rest are just inferior also-rans.
0:23:55 > 0:23:59They're bigger, clumsier. You know, nowhere near as pretty.
0:23:59 > 0:24:01Come on, girl, come on. Come on.
0:24:03 > 0:24:05# Baby face
0:24:05 > 0:24:10# You've got the cutest Little baby face. #
0:24:10 > 0:24:14First recorded as a breed in around 1700,
0:24:14 > 0:24:16it's thought this gorgeous cow was originally descended
0:24:16 > 0:24:20from cattle stock brought over from the nearby French mainland.
0:24:20 > 0:24:26By 1789, the island had banned all imports of other cattle,
0:24:26 > 0:24:29allowing farmers centuries to develop the breed
0:24:29 > 0:24:32for its purity and strengths as a producer of quality milk.
0:24:37 > 0:24:39But it didn't stop them being exported.
0:24:39 > 0:24:42Now, the fastest-growing dairy breed in the world,
0:24:42 > 0:24:44you can find them everywhere -
0:24:44 > 0:24:50America, Africa, and even Saudi Arabia.
0:24:50 > 0:24:52Eh up, that's no Jersey cow, Kingy.
0:24:53 > 0:24:57No, but when an Arab sheik wanted something high octane
0:24:57 > 0:24:59to give his thoroughbred racing camels,
0:24:59 > 0:25:02he thought, "I'll buy myself a herd of Jerseys."
0:25:03 > 0:25:07The aim of this project is fuel for the camels
0:25:07 > 0:25:12and everyone is quite happy that once the camels have had their supply,
0:25:12 > 0:25:16the rest goes to the palaces for human consumption.
0:25:16 > 0:25:19Just hoping that Sheikh Mohammed will get some on his cornflakes!
0:25:20 > 0:25:22And what's good enough for Sheikh Mohammed
0:25:22 > 0:25:25and his camels is good enough for Darren.
0:25:25 > 0:25:29I have tried other milk, but there is no flavour in it,
0:25:29 > 0:25:30it tastes like water.
0:25:30 > 0:25:33It's a situation where we've got the creaminess,
0:25:33 > 0:25:36we've got the quality within the Jersey,
0:25:36 > 0:25:39so everything else tastes inferior to my taste buds.
0:25:43 > 0:25:47For many British dairy farmers, these days, times are hard.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50But these beautiful cows and the amazing milk they produce,
0:25:50 > 0:25:53is all the motivation Darren needs to keep on farming them.
0:25:55 > 0:25:58The actual milk is never going to make you any money.
0:25:58 > 0:25:59From that point of view,
0:25:59 > 0:26:02it's a situation where it is a labour of love.
0:26:06 > 0:26:09I've been 30 years milking cows. I know them all.
0:26:09 > 0:26:11I know their mothers, their fathers.
0:26:11 > 0:26:13Where other people will have a hobby,
0:26:13 > 0:26:15my hobby is looking after cows.
0:26:15 > 0:26:17I am trying to make a living out of it.
0:26:27 > 0:26:30Fortunately, the milk's qualities have given farmers like Darren
0:26:30 > 0:26:34plenty of opportunity to add a bit of value to their base product.
0:26:34 > 0:26:36we are presently using about a third
0:26:36 > 0:26:40of today's production to go into cheese.
0:26:40 > 0:26:44We've got to make some yoghurt, we've got to skim the cream to make some clotted cream
0:26:44 > 0:26:48and bottle the rest for all those lovely people on this island
0:26:48 > 0:26:50who drink my milk.
0:26:50 > 0:26:53And with so much butterfat to play with, when you're this far south,
0:26:53 > 0:26:56you can only really make one thing.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59The ice cream is the most luxury of all the products.
0:26:59 > 0:27:03It is the one where you can really taste that golden Jersey goodness.
0:27:03 > 0:27:06It's the one that ruins my waistline the most, because it is gorgeous.
0:27:06 > 0:27:08You just keep chewing it.
0:27:08 > 0:27:12It's not what you call a six-pack any more.
0:27:18 > 0:27:19Six-pack or no six-pack,
0:27:19 > 0:27:22it's not stopped Darren concocting new flavours
0:27:22 > 0:27:25and his latest product uses black butter.
0:27:27 > 0:27:29For once, it's nothing to do with cows.
0:27:31 > 0:27:34Many moons ago, much of Jersey was covered by cider orchards.
0:27:36 > 0:27:40Apples from these orchards, treacle, lemon, cider and spices,
0:27:40 > 0:27:42have traditionally been blended together to make a product
0:27:42 > 0:27:46that, like the cows themselves, are synonymous with Jersey.
0:27:49 > 0:27:51It's taking the essence of something
0:27:51 > 0:27:54which is not produced anywhere else but in Jersey,
0:27:54 > 0:27:56mixing it with our luxury cream,
0:27:56 > 0:28:01and it's trying to get something which nobody else can replicate.
0:28:03 > 0:28:06The rich, intense flavours of the black butter should combine
0:28:06 > 0:28:11perfectly with the smooth creamy butterfats from the Jerseys.
0:28:11 > 0:28:14But when you've got one of the creamiest milks in the world
0:28:14 > 0:28:18to work with, it's nice to go that extra mile.
0:28:18 > 0:28:20This time, we've used clotted cream
0:28:20 > 0:28:22to make it even more smooth and luxury.
0:28:22 > 0:28:27You'll really be able to taste the creaminess from my lovely girls.
0:28:33 > 0:28:35After looking after his cows seven days a week,
0:28:35 > 0:28:39and processing their rich, golden milk, it's unsurprising Darren
0:28:39 > 0:28:43has developed an almost religious passion for all things Jersey.
0:28:45 > 0:28:48Ah, but will anybody else?
0:28:48 > 0:28:51- To the beach, Kingy?- To the beach.
0:28:51 > 0:28:54Dig in and tell me if I've got it right or wrong.
0:28:57 > 0:29:00Mm. It's very, very creamy.
0:29:00 > 0:29:03There's a... I can taste a bit of apple and blackberry.
0:29:03 > 0:29:07It tastes to me quite caramely and I could eat quite a lot of it.
0:29:07 > 0:29:08LAUGHTER
0:29:08 > 0:29:11- It is absolutely gorgeous. - Delicious.
0:29:11 > 0:29:14Can I get a job doing these all day?!
0:29:14 > 0:29:16I think he's onto a winner there.
0:29:16 > 0:29:17- WOMAN:- That's a hit.
0:29:19 > 0:29:23We Brits have embraced ice cream ever since the Italian immigrants peddled
0:29:23 > 0:29:27this frozen treat from handcarts back in the Victorian times.
0:29:27 > 0:29:29But we needed some gentle persuading
0:29:29 > 0:29:31when it came to another dairy dessert
0:29:31 > 0:29:34that we enjoy by the bucket load today.
0:29:37 > 0:29:39In the world of British dairy,
0:29:39 > 0:29:41there's a relative newcomer to these shores.
0:29:41 > 0:29:44And that's yoghurt.
0:29:46 > 0:29:50Yep, today, it might be as familiar to us as Cheddar cheese,
0:29:50 > 0:29:56but before 1963, it was as unknown to the British public as the Beatles.
0:29:56 > 0:29:59But in less than 50 years, the humble yoghurt went from something
0:29:59 > 0:30:02just foreigners and a few health food aficionados ate
0:30:02 > 0:30:07to a mass-market super-food that seven out of ten of us regularly tuck into.
0:30:09 > 0:30:14It's one of the greatest marketing success stories in our food history.
0:30:14 > 0:30:17And has been successfully reinvented to fit in
0:30:17 > 0:30:20with just about every trend to come along.
0:30:22 > 0:30:25No-one knows for sure quite where or how
0:30:25 > 0:30:28this fermented milk product first came about.
0:30:28 > 0:30:33But it was most probably by accident some thousands of years BC
0:30:33 > 0:30:34in Central Asia.
0:30:34 > 0:30:37# Shake it all over. #
0:30:37 > 0:30:41It's said that Genghis Khan's men couldn't get enough of it.
0:30:41 > 0:30:44But whilst the marauding hordes enjoyed it,
0:30:44 > 0:30:46we Britons never swallowed it.
0:30:47 > 0:30:49To us, it was just good milk gone bad.
0:30:51 > 0:30:53But all that changed in 1963
0:30:53 > 0:30:57with the launch of this revolutionary new product.
0:30:57 > 0:31:01- ADVERT:- Ski real-fruit yoghurt is a new lively taste.
0:31:01 > 0:31:03Ski was invented in Switzerland
0:31:03 > 0:31:06and by adding fruit and lots of sugar to yoghurt,
0:31:06 > 0:31:09the brand pulled off something of a miracle
0:31:09 > 0:31:12by making this sharp and foul-tasting substance
0:31:12 > 0:31:13palatable to us Brits.
0:31:13 > 0:31:15# One lump of sugar
0:31:15 > 0:31:17# Don't compare
0:31:17 > 0:31:21# To the sweetness Of my baby's loving care. #
0:31:21 > 0:31:22It was an instant hit
0:31:22 > 0:31:26and single-handedly launched a dairy revolution.
0:31:26 > 0:31:30- Not only did it get us eating yoghurt.- It was a huge money-maker.
0:31:30 > 0:31:34Suddenly, you could charge an awful lot more for the same amount of milk.
0:31:34 > 0:31:39- Result!- It wasn't long before other brands started to appear.
0:31:39 > 0:31:41- ADVERT:- They're thick, they're fruity,
0:31:41 > 0:31:45they're the good guys. They're the prize guys.
0:31:45 > 0:31:47And never again would Blue Peter lack ideas
0:31:47 > 0:31:50when it came to ingenious craft items.
0:31:50 > 0:31:51And now, over to Val.
0:31:51 > 0:31:55And it's a man made out of... I wonder if you can guess what.
0:31:55 > 0:31:58Yoghurt cartons.
0:31:58 > 0:32:01But, in the '80s, things turned a bit sour for the yoghurt market.
0:32:01 > 0:32:06The health movement came along and suddenly dairy became a dirty word.
0:32:06 > 0:32:07But yoghurt fared better than most
0:32:07 > 0:32:11and was rebranded as a health product.
0:32:11 > 0:32:14# Let's get physical Physical. #
0:32:14 > 0:32:18- ADVERT:- A fit family are a jolly healthy lot.
0:32:19 > 0:32:22With a pot or two of Shape fruit yoghurt.
0:32:22 > 0:32:25Then, just as we entered the 1990s, yoghurt took an unexpected
0:32:25 > 0:32:29and less figure-conscious turn with the launch of a new brand.
0:32:30 > 0:32:32Suddenly, it became a luxury product.
0:32:32 > 0:32:35With the simple addition of a dash of jam,
0:32:35 > 0:32:37here was a yoghurt that cost around 50% more
0:32:37 > 0:32:42- than most others. - And yet, it was a raging success.
0:32:42 > 0:32:44And perhaps the biggest coup occurred
0:32:44 > 0:32:51when the industry managed to convince us that drinking a little bottle of bacteria every day would do us good.
0:32:51 > 0:32:56MUSIC: "Turning Japanese" by The Vapors
0:32:58 > 0:33:03In 1996, Japanese firm Yakult launched their product in the UK.
0:33:03 > 0:33:06Live bacteria. Take mother's advice.
0:33:06 > 0:33:08It went from being something totally unknown
0:33:08 > 0:33:12to selling over 100,000 bottles a day in just three years.
0:33:14 > 0:33:17And spearheaded a super-food revolution.
0:33:17 > 0:33:22By 2010, half of UK households bought yoghurt drinks regularly.
0:33:22 > 0:33:25Today, the concept of food as medicine is commonplace
0:33:25 > 0:33:30and the functional food market in this country is worth billions.
0:33:30 > 0:33:33The yoghurt revolution is a phenomenal success story
0:33:33 > 0:33:36that few other products can even come close to.
0:33:36 > 0:33:37# Mm, Danone. #
0:33:37 > 0:33:42It's so hard to believe that it's only been around for such a short time.
0:33:42 > 0:33:47Because today, it's impossible to imagine our lives without it.
0:33:47 > 0:33:50Yoghurt revitalised our dairy industry by creating a huge demand
0:33:50 > 0:33:53for something that really hadn't existed at all before.
0:33:54 > 0:33:58And it gave us even more to love when it came to dairy.
0:34:03 > 0:34:06Isn't milk great? Churn it and you get butter,
0:34:06 > 0:34:08add friendly bacteria to it and you get yoghurt,
0:34:08 > 0:34:11skim the fat off it and you get cream.
0:34:11 > 0:34:14But peek inside the fridge of any Brit and chances are there is one
0:34:14 > 0:34:18milk-based product that will definitely make an appearance -
0:34:18 > 0:34:19cheese.
0:34:20 > 0:34:23Cheese is funny stuff, you know.
0:34:23 > 0:34:27Eh-heh, Kingy, how does a Welshman eat his cheese?
0:34:27 > 0:34:29- I've no idea, dude.- Caerphilly!
0:34:29 > 0:34:33- Oh, man!- What cheese is made backwards.
0:34:33 > 0:34:34Edam!
0:34:34 > 0:34:37- What does cheese say when it looks in the mirror?- Don't know.
0:34:37 > 0:34:38Halloumi!
0:34:38 > 0:34:41- Why did the one-legged clown leave the cheese circus?- I don't know.
0:34:41 > 0:34:45- Because he couldn't get his Stilton! Ho-ho.- Oh, dear. Stop.
0:34:45 > 0:34:46Can you make cheese without milk?
0:34:47 > 0:34:49BOTH: No whey!
0:34:49 > 0:34:51Got it.
0:34:52 > 0:34:54We're a nation of cheese lovers.
0:34:54 > 0:34:57Not only do we produce some of the best in the world,
0:34:57 > 0:34:58with weird and wonderful names...
0:34:58 > 0:35:01- Like Stinking Bishop. - ..and unusual ingredients...
0:35:01 > 0:35:02Such as nettles.
0:35:02 > 0:35:05..we've also embraced cheeses from other countries.
0:35:05 > 0:35:07And made them our own.
0:35:08 > 0:35:12Now, Brie, nowadays is English and, in fact, Brie was often thought
0:35:12 > 0:35:15to be the cheese of choice for French royalty.
0:35:15 > 0:35:17In the time of Charlemagne in the eighth century,
0:35:17 > 0:35:21it was his favourite cheese and it continued thus to be favoured by the court.
0:35:21 > 0:35:23But since the 1980s,
0:35:23 > 0:35:28Somerset Brie has been winning prizes globally for being the best Brie.
0:35:28 > 0:35:31- And that's what this is. - Somerset Brie. That's ours.
0:35:33 > 0:35:37And we're doubly making sure that you don't mistake this cheese as French
0:35:37 > 0:35:41by putting it in something quintessentially British, like pie.
0:35:41 > 0:35:45But this is no ordinary pie. It's our cheese and chutney turnover.
0:35:45 > 0:35:47And it couldn't be simpler.
0:35:48 > 0:35:50- Right, pastry.- OK.
0:35:50 > 0:35:53Listen, I've only got two ingredients for the middle,
0:35:53 > 0:35:59- so I'll carve something out. Should I make a sculpture or something?- No.
0:35:59 > 0:36:04Just 180 grams of cubes of cheese minus the rind, please, Mr King.
0:36:04 > 0:36:08180 grams of cheese without the rind is about that.
0:36:08 > 0:36:13I'm using self-raising flour because they're like a cheesy puff pie.
0:36:13 > 0:36:18They puff up. Self-raising flour in a bowl.
0:36:18 > 0:36:20- Oh, this is easy.- Isn't it?
0:36:20 > 0:36:22You could do cocktail ones for parties.
0:36:22 > 0:36:25- Ooh, I'll just have a cocktail turnover!- Why don't you?!- Ooh, yes.
0:36:25 > 0:36:28You could do them with mushroom, as well. Pick your cheese.
0:36:28 > 0:36:30You can do Stilton and walnut turnovers.
0:36:30 > 0:36:34Just look upon this as a starting block.
0:36:34 > 0:36:38Half a teaspoon of salt. And stir that.
0:36:38 > 0:36:41- How many are you doing?- Six.- Right.
0:36:41 > 0:36:43I've got a block of butter.
0:36:43 > 0:36:46I'm going to cut it into cubes and rub it through
0:36:46 > 0:36:49until the flour resembles fine breadcrumbs.
0:36:50 > 0:36:53Now, just rub that through with both hands.
0:36:53 > 0:36:56Eh, look at that, Dave, look.
0:36:56 > 0:36:59- Beautiful.- Six little soldiers waiting for the war.
0:36:59 > 0:37:01Now, this rind, what you do...
0:37:01 > 0:37:04I don't know what you do with it, if I'm honest.
0:37:04 > 0:37:06DAVE GUFFAWS
0:37:06 > 0:37:09What you could do, you could roll it up into a ball.
0:37:09 > 0:37:12And give it to the mice to play with.
0:37:12 > 0:37:17Now I've finished the pastry and we're doing this with 225ml of whole milk.
0:37:17 > 0:37:21And there's no set-aside for this, waiting for it to chill,
0:37:21 > 0:37:24we're just going to go for it - build turnovers.
0:37:24 > 0:37:28I'll get our home-made tomato chutney. Whoa! Look at this.
0:37:31 > 0:37:34Home-made is best, of course. but this dish will go with any chutney.
0:37:35 > 0:37:37Once your pastry has formed a ball,
0:37:37 > 0:37:40start rolling it out onto a well-floured surface.
0:37:40 > 0:37:42It wants to end up about three millimetres thick,
0:37:42 > 0:37:44which takes just enough time to let you reflect
0:37:44 > 0:37:48on some of the important issues of the day.
0:37:48 > 0:37:52- If you were a cheese, what would you be?- One with holes in it. Emmental.
0:37:52 > 0:37:56- Why Emmental?- I don't know. Stringy.
0:37:56 > 0:37:59You're one thing one minute and when you get heated, you go to another thing.
0:37:59 > 0:38:03- I quite like the idea of that. - Really?- Two things, split personality.
0:38:03 > 0:38:05What about you? Hold on, hold on.
0:38:05 > 0:38:07Now I'm not trying to be over-familiar,
0:38:07 > 0:38:09it's just you're my friend and I love you.
0:38:09 > 0:38:12- I don't want you to look daft on the telly.- I could be a Swalesdale.
0:38:12 > 0:38:17- Who?- Me.- Sheep?- No, no, they make good... It's a sheep's cheese, actually.
0:38:18 > 0:38:21Cut out your circles for your turnovers.
0:38:21 > 0:38:24I want mine neat and tidy, so I'm using a bowl as a template.
0:38:24 > 0:38:28But who's to say you can't find a quicker method for yourself?
0:38:29 > 0:38:32'And fry.'
0:38:32 > 0:38:35Yep. How you build a turnover.
0:38:35 > 0:38:38Take a spoonful.
0:38:38 > 0:38:39Oh, Dave.
0:38:39 > 0:38:41Spread that about a centimetre from your rim.
0:38:43 > 0:38:46Place a block of Brie on one side.
0:38:47 > 0:38:51Paste this with water.
0:38:51 > 0:38:52Like so.
0:38:52 > 0:38:57And turn it over, because it's called a turnover.
0:38:57 > 0:38:58Neat.
0:38:58 > 0:39:00We want those edges to meet.
0:39:00 > 0:39:02Like that.
0:39:02 > 0:39:08Get the air out. And press with a fork. Just like that, neat.
0:39:10 > 0:39:14Very neatly. Neat and precise.
0:39:20 > 0:39:25The fat wants to be hot enough that the little turnovers sizzle gently,
0:39:25 > 0:39:27slowly melting the Brie inside.
0:39:27 > 0:39:31That's why you want to be careful when you're pressing the pastry edges together,
0:39:31 > 0:39:33so that nothing oozes out while they're cooking.
0:39:33 > 0:39:34(It's leaking.)
0:39:34 > 0:39:36It's not!
0:39:36 > 0:39:38(Oh, you swine.)
0:39:38 > 0:39:39SIMON LAUGHS
0:39:40 > 0:39:43One of these days, you're going to turn over a new leaf.
0:39:43 > 0:39:46Oh, man!
0:39:46 > 0:39:49About four minutes on each side should be enough to puff up
0:39:49 > 0:39:52the pastry and give it a nice little suntan.
0:39:52 > 0:39:55- Look at these, Dave, they're lovely, actually.- Golden brown.
0:39:55 > 0:39:58Wonder what they're going to be like on the inside.
0:39:58 > 0:40:00- Gooey.- Mm.
0:40:00 > 0:40:04You see, the reason that the UK has so much cheese
0:40:04 > 0:40:08is partly due to the dairy industry and Britain's farmers,
0:40:08 > 0:40:14because it produces 13 billion litres of milk a year.
0:40:15 > 0:40:17That's a lot of udders.
0:40:17 > 0:40:22On a more sobering note, one of the huge problems is that farmers,
0:40:22 > 0:40:26on the whole, are getting less for the milk than it costs to produce it
0:40:26 > 0:40:29and, at the minute, about two farmers a week are going out of business.
0:40:29 > 0:40:32If we don't support our own dairy industry soon, we won't have one.
0:40:32 > 0:40:36And that means British cheese, British milk, British butter.
0:40:36 > 0:40:39And, you know, it's not fair is it, really?
0:40:39 > 0:40:41It's not fair, because it's about profit over people.
0:40:41 > 0:40:44Stop it and support what we need to support,
0:40:44 > 0:40:45which is our own industries.
0:40:47 > 0:40:49This is a serious business.
0:40:49 > 0:40:52If only everyone made these all day, every day,
0:40:52 > 0:40:54we could put the dairy world to rights.
0:40:54 > 0:40:59A little greenery. A platter of turnovers.
0:40:59 > 0:41:00And there we go.
0:41:00 > 0:41:04Six perfect parcels of molten yumminess that are our contribution
0:41:04 > 0:41:07in the battle to keep the British dairy industry alive.
0:41:08 > 0:41:10Pick your turnover, gladiator.
0:41:10 > 0:41:12- It's going to ooze, isn't it? - Jaunty angle.
0:41:14 > 0:41:16It should ooze.
0:41:16 > 0:41:17Ah.
0:41:20 > 0:41:25- Look at that. That pastry is nice and light, isn't it?- Tastes lovely.
0:41:28 > 0:41:31- A cautionary tale, it'll be hot.- Mm.
0:41:31 > 0:41:35- They're brilliant.- Are they good?- Mm.
0:41:35 > 0:41:37Messy.
0:41:37 > 0:41:39But really good.
0:41:40 > 0:41:44- It is optional to eat these with a knife and fork.- You can if you like.
0:41:44 > 0:41:48- They're lovely.- They are, very good. Very good. Best of British cheese.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50A bit of the best of British milk in the pastry, too.
0:41:50 > 0:41:56- And, one of the best of British inventions.- Yes, the pie.
0:41:56 > 0:41:58And so from the cheese that was French,
0:41:58 > 0:42:03- but we have inherited as our own... - To one that has always been ours.
0:42:03 > 0:42:06In the south-west of Britain lies a cultural historic landmark
0:42:06 > 0:42:08that acts as the heart of Somerset.
0:42:10 > 0:42:11Wells Cathedral.
0:42:13 > 0:42:16And Wells Cathedral also serves as a landmark
0:42:16 > 0:42:19for one of Britain's most successful food exports.
0:42:21 > 0:42:24As a matter of fact, only cheese manufactured within 30 miles
0:42:24 > 0:42:29of its imposing stone edifices could traditionally call itself Cheddar.
0:42:29 > 0:42:32BOTH: Our very own big cheese.
0:42:35 > 0:42:38From its humble artisan beginnings in Somerset dairies,
0:42:38 > 0:42:43Cheddar cheese has become a generic byword for cheese all over the world.
0:42:45 > 0:42:48Jamie Montgomery is the third generation of his family
0:42:48 > 0:42:50still making Cheddar cheese in the right place
0:42:50 > 0:42:53and in the traditional fashion.
0:42:53 > 0:42:58The concept of Cheddar cheese has become so industrialised,
0:42:58 > 0:43:03because it's been a very easy cheese to make on a very big scale.
0:43:03 > 0:43:07And so I quite enjoy being there as a reminder
0:43:07 > 0:43:12to all the big industrials that they call theirs Cheddar,
0:43:12 > 0:43:15but, actually, this is what it's meant to be like.
0:43:18 > 0:43:19To make authentic Cheddar,
0:43:19 > 0:43:22you've got to produce your own quality milk daily.
0:43:25 > 0:43:27And Somerset's pristine grazing
0:43:27 > 0:43:30has been offering farmers this for centuries.
0:43:33 > 0:43:37Big cheeses come from very fertile places.
0:43:38 > 0:43:41And Somerset is tremendous grass-growing country.
0:43:41 > 0:43:46So every little farm that had cows, they had more milk
0:43:46 > 0:43:50than they could use and so they had to do something with that milk.
0:43:50 > 0:43:52There was no transport of milk to London,
0:43:52 > 0:43:54there was no Milk Marketing Board.
0:43:54 > 0:43:57They had to do something with it or put it down the drain.
0:43:57 > 0:44:01So pretty much every single dairy farm was making cheese.
0:44:01 > 0:44:05It would be the wife in the kitchen, effectively, making the cheese.
0:44:07 > 0:44:09Farmhouse Cheddar, although widespread,
0:44:09 > 0:44:12was banned during World War II as the Government sought
0:44:12 > 0:44:16to collectivise and streamline cheese-making and milk production.
0:44:16 > 0:44:20And with this infrastructure and rationing still in place after the war,
0:44:20 > 0:44:25traditional small-scale artisan cheese-making in Somerset simply never recovered.
0:44:27 > 0:44:29And our cheese suffered.
0:44:29 > 0:44:31Ah, well, this is the life.
0:44:31 > 0:44:34An idyllic corner of this green and pleasant land,
0:44:34 > 0:44:38delightful company and a splendid spread for our al-fresco lunch.
0:44:38 > 0:44:42But it's the cheese that lets it down.
0:44:42 > 0:44:47A sweaty, solid block of best supermarket mousetrap.
0:44:47 > 0:44:50Just the thing that lets down any kind of picnic.
0:44:50 > 0:44:52To produce Cheddar like this on a factory scale,
0:44:52 > 0:44:55the first thing has to be controlled is the milk.
0:44:56 > 0:44:59Often from multiple sources, it's pasteurised to give
0:44:59 > 0:45:02cheese-makers a uniform, homogenised product to work with.
0:45:06 > 0:45:12But to give his Cheddar the true essence of the rich Somerset pastures from which it originates,
0:45:12 > 0:45:15Jamie uses unpasteurised milk straight from the cow's udder.
0:45:17 > 0:45:21And with that, you never know what you're going to get.
0:45:21 > 0:45:27The beautiful thing about unpasteurised traditional Cheddar cheese
0:45:27 > 0:45:29is it's still complex.
0:45:30 > 0:45:35It's the raw milk, it's the grass, it's the water we use,
0:45:35 > 0:45:38it'll be everything has an influence.
0:45:38 > 0:45:43If it wasn't everything having an influence, we would be able to define a particular flavour
0:45:43 > 0:45:46that we always get. I can't.
0:45:46 > 0:45:50Every cheese is different and every cheese is a journey
0:45:50 > 0:45:53that it's not just one flavour that's happening.
0:45:53 > 0:45:59The whole point of eating unpasteurised cheese is to look for more than one flavour.
0:46:05 > 0:46:08It's not just the milk that influences the final product.
0:46:10 > 0:46:14The way you choose to make your cheese also plays a role.
0:46:14 > 0:46:18The instantly recognisable texture of Cheddar
0:46:18 > 0:46:23is an important factor in its success all over the world.
0:46:23 > 0:46:27Historically, to achieve this, the curd would be cut, then stacked
0:46:27 > 0:46:31and repeatedly turned by hand to ensure all the moisture drains away.
0:46:32 > 0:46:38Famously known as cheddaring, the process is crucial to the look and feel of the finished product.
0:46:38 > 0:46:43The big slabs of curd that we've created can't go straight into the moulds like that,
0:46:43 > 0:46:47so we break it all up through a machine, which shreds it.
0:46:49 > 0:46:52The way you shred the curd is crucial
0:46:52 > 0:46:55to the type of texture that you later get in the cheese.
0:46:56 > 0:47:02We have the traditional peg mill, with no sharp cutting surfaces,
0:47:02 > 0:47:05and so it comes out all different shapes and sizes.
0:47:05 > 0:47:09Those rough-edged bits of cheese
0:47:09 > 0:47:14go together to give us a grain, a bit of broken texture.
0:47:14 > 0:47:19The reason that everybody else uses a sharp cutting machine
0:47:19 > 0:47:23is because, A, it's quicker for them,
0:47:23 > 0:47:28and, B, it gives them a really close-textured cheese at the finish.
0:47:28 > 0:47:31They don't get those lovely grains running through it.
0:47:31 > 0:47:37And so, when they pre-pack their cheese into those very, very tiny pre-packed wedges,
0:47:37 > 0:47:40it doesn't break up.
0:47:40 > 0:47:43That's market telling me how to make the cheese.
0:47:43 > 0:47:46I don't want to let the market tell me how to make the cheese.
0:47:53 > 0:47:56There's all sorts of ways they can do what is necessary for them to do
0:47:56 > 0:48:01to make exactly the same cheese day after day after day.
0:48:01 > 0:48:02That's their target.
0:48:02 > 0:48:06That's their only target - to make it absolutely consistent.
0:48:07 > 0:48:09Our target is to make it interesting
0:48:09 > 0:48:13and that involves making it different day after day after day
0:48:13 > 0:48:16and if that involves getting it wrong every now and then
0:48:16 > 0:48:20because there's something in the milk that's gone absolutely crazy, so be it.
0:48:22 > 0:48:24And who's going to argue with him?
0:48:24 > 0:48:27The cheese made from today's milking is compressed
0:48:27 > 0:48:31before being cloth-wrapped in the traditional fashion
0:48:31 > 0:48:33and then matured for 12 to 18 months.
0:48:37 > 0:48:40It's only during this time that some of the unique flavours and textures
0:48:40 > 0:48:44that result from unpasteurised milk can start to develop.
0:48:46 > 0:48:48Nice and bouncy in the mouth, though.
0:48:48 > 0:48:50- This is springy. - Springy. It's fine.
0:48:50 > 0:48:54So that was in April, was it? It was a bit wetter.
0:48:55 > 0:48:59We believe that to make a really good artisan Somerset cheese,
0:48:59 > 0:49:00you've got to have your own cows,
0:49:00 > 0:49:05don't mess about with the milk and put it into cloth binding
0:49:05 > 0:49:09so it can breathe and then keep it long enough for it to really mature.
0:49:09 > 0:49:12And that's just the bits we do know about.
0:49:12 > 0:49:16There's going to be loads of stuff - that is about this farm
0:49:16 > 0:49:19and about the environment - that we don't know.
0:49:19 > 0:49:25That's got some butteriness. Wow. That's a great cheese. Good.
0:49:26 > 0:49:29And although mass-produced factory Cheddar might struggle
0:49:29 > 0:49:32to emulate the complexities found in artisan Cheddar,
0:49:32 > 0:49:37they nevertheless have elevated cheese like Jamie's into a class of their own.
0:49:38 > 0:49:41If there wasn't all that other Cheddar out there
0:49:41 > 0:49:45and we were all there was, would it make it any easier for us
0:49:45 > 0:49:49to jump up and say how special we are? I don't think it would.
0:49:49 > 0:49:52I think it would make it slightly harder, because it's more fun
0:49:52 > 0:49:56to say there's all this out there, but we are the real thing.
0:49:56 > 0:49:59And if there's one thing a really good Cheddar is really good for,
0:49:59 > 0:50:01it's a ploughman's.
0:50:01 > 0:50:03But I don't think you need us
0:50:03 > 0:50:05to teach you how to put a cheese on a board.
0:50:05 > 0:50:08So here's something new.
0:50:08 > 0:50:13You know we go for a ploughman's sometimes and it's cheese and it's hard work?
0:50:13 > 0:50:16Wouldn't it be great if you had all those lovely pickles and everything
0:50:16 > 0:50:20and your bread and if you just dip that in molten cheese?
0:50:20 > 0:50:25And, actually, if we put the beer in there as well, it's all in a onesie.
0:50:25 > 0:50:29We have combined the fondue, which everybody loves really -
0:50:29 > 0:50:32mm, stringy, yum-yum - with a ploughman's lunch.
0:50:32 > 0:50:34And we've created the plough-due.
0:50:36 > 0:50:38This is a great invention.
0:50:38 > 0:50:41A pot of lava-like molten cheese to gently smother
0:50:41 > 0:50:44over your favourite pub snackettes.
0:50:44 > 0:50:47The texture contrast between the crunch of the dippers
0:50:47 > 0:50:49and the soft fondue is truly something to behold.
0:50:51 > 0:50:55I'd give it three days before some enterprising pub in Britain
0:50:55 > 0:50:57will be serving the ploughdue.
0:50:59 > 0:51:03I'm very skilfully going to cut this loaf of bread, or some of it, into cubes.
0:51:03 > 0:51:06My friend here is going to make a platter.
0:51:06 > 0:51:11A plethora of dippy things. It will look like a harvest festival.
0:51:11 > 0:51:12Honestly. It's going to be lovely.
0:51:12 > 0:51:17I am going to make that board the best it's ever looked.
0:51:17 > 0:51:19I do want good flavour in this,
0:51:19 > 0:51:22so what I have to do is rub the pot with a clove of garlic
0:51:22 > 0:51:25to build up the aroma. Rub it well.
0:51:25 > 0:51:30- A cast-iron saucepan's good for this if you haven't got a fondue kit. - It's true.
0:51:30 > 0:51:32But they're cheap to get, fondue kits, now.
0:51:32 > 0:51:35You see these now? They're brilliant.
0:51:35 > 0:51:38If you run out of fuel, use diesel(!)
0:51:38 > 0:51:41- You'll stink like a swine in your house!- Don't use diesel.
0:51:41 > 0:51:44I was only joking. You know I was only joking.
0:51:44 > 0:51:46Anyway, mega lecker.
0:51:46 > 0:51:49So, put some heat on under your garlic-encrusted fondue pan
0:51:49 > 0:51:53and pour in a glass of beer.
0:51:53 > 0:51:58Good old IPA or a pale ale, summat with a bit of hops
0:51:58 > 0:51:59and melt gently.
0:51:59 > 0:52:05Meanwhile, take a hunk of good, strong cheese and start to grate.
0:52:05 > 0:52:10You can use what you want, really, just a good slab of Cheddar.
0:52:10 > 0:52:13Fondues were so popular in the '60s and '70s,
0:52:13 > 0:52:15and there used to be three courses of fondue.
0:52:15 > 0:52:17You'd start off with the cheese,
0:52:17 > 0:52:21then you'd go on to one with a pan of hot oil and cut little bits of meat,
0:52:21 > 0:52:24and then you'd go onto a chocolate fondue and dip your strawberries,
0:52:24 > 0:52:27and there's all those customs, isn't there, that, you know,
0:52:27 > 0:52:29if you dropped your bit of stuff off the fork,
0:52:29 > 0:52:32if you are a fella, you've got to get everybody else a drink,
0:52:32 > 0:52:36and if you're a woman, you've got to kiss everybody round the table.
0:52:36 > 0:52:41Now, we're going to thicken this with two tablespoons of cornflour.
0:52:42 > 0:52:46And we're going to put two teaspoons of English mustard in.
0:52:46 > 0:52:49You know, Kingy, we are onto something here.
0:52:49 > 0:52:51We are, I think we should open a ploughdue restaurant.
0:52:51 > 0:52:54Ploughdues R Us, I can see it now.
0:52:54 > 0:52:57- In bright orange lights.- Yes, yes.
0:52:57 > 0:52:59By now the beer should be nice and hot.
0:52:59 > 0:53:04It doesn't need to be madly boiling, just warm enough to melt the cheese.
0:53:05 > 0:53:10Now, that is the well-mixed cheese, mustard and cornflour.
0:53:10 > 0:53:14Now, we put this in, a nice big spoonful at a time,
0:53:14 > 0:53:17and I've just got that off the heat, and stir it,
0:53:17 > 0:53:22and when that's melted, put some more in, but don't rush your ploughdue.
0:53:23 > 0:53:27The word fondue comes from the French "fondre," which means to melt.
0:53:27 > 0:53:31It's thought to have originated in the cantons of Switzerland, where
0:53:31 > 0:53:36they predominantly melt Swiss cheeses like Gruyere, Emmental and Raclette.
0:53:36 > 0:53:40But other countries have a fondue, too. The Italians have a...?
0:53:40 > 0:53:44- Fonduta.- The Dutch, they have a kaasdoop.
0:53:44 > 0:53:46So, it seems perfectly appropriate to me
0:53:46 > 0:53:48that we British should have a fondue of our own.
0:53:48 > 0:53:52- Well, Dave, you're not wrong. - Hence, the ploughdue.
0:53:52 > 0:53:55It's funny though, Kingy, the term "ploughman's lunch,"
0:53:55 > 0:53:57it is quite a new one,
0:53:57 > 0:54:00and it is said that the term came as a clever advertising gimmick
0:54:00 > 0:54:04from the Milk Marketing Board to try and persuade us to eat more cheese.
0:54:04 > 0:54:06So, the idea is you go for a pint, you eat cheese.
0:54:06 > 0:54:08But the concept of eating cheese, pickles
0:54:08 > 0:54:12and having a jug of beer, I'm sure that is as old as time itself.
0:54:12 > 0:54:14Oh, absolutely, absolutely. Well, that's what farmworkers did.
0:54:14 > 0:54:17They were relatively low paid, and that's what they had.
0:54:17 > 0:54:19They had been eating that sort of thing for centuries.
0:54:19 > 0:54:23Simple lunches of bread, cheese and fruit.
0:54:23 > 0:54:26So all those lovely, classic accompaniments
0:54:26 > 0:54:30that you can think of, with a ploughman's lunch,
0:54:30 > 0:54:33you can accompany the ploughdue with the same.
0:54:33 > 0:54:38Some pickled onions, some mustard,
0:54:38 > 0:54:42baby beetroot,
0:54:42 > 0:54:44farmhouse chutney,
0:54:44 > 0:54:47and last, but by no means least,
0:54:47 > 0:54:52some caper berries - with their stalks on - so we can dip in.
0:54:52 > 0:54:54The rest of that cheese in...
0:54:54 > 0:54:56It's a thick little number, isn't it?!
0:54:56 > 0:55:00Right, and I was just going to say, if you do think it's thick, you can
0:55:00 > 0:55:02always let it down with more beer.
0:55:04 > 0:55:06Oh, nice, mate, nice.
0:55:07 > 0:55:10Are we ready to light the fire?
0:55:11 > 0:55:14Has that been lit since 1973?
0:55:14 > 0:55:17I don't know, but I am about to find out, though.
0:55:17 > 0:55:19- Oh, yes.- Oh, perfect.
0:55:22 > 0:55:25Kingy, this is beautiful. Look how creamy that is.
0:55:25 > 0:55:28It's the cornflour that gives it the texture.
0:55:28 > 0:55:30Look at that, it's a lovely texture, isn't?
0:55:30 > 0:55:35When you think all it is is beer, cheese, cornflour and mustard.
0:55:38 > 0:55:40Such a simple and indeed frugal set of ingredients
0:55:40 > 0:55:45can come together to make so much more than a simple ploughman's.
0:55:45 > 0:55:48But, of course, there's always a price to pay.
0:55:48 > 0:55:51Remember, if your bread drops off,
0:55:51 > 0:55:53- you've got to buy the drinks. - Excellent.
0:55:53 > 0:55:56Actually, that's for a fondue, there should be different forfeits,
0:55:56 > 0:55:58shouldn't there, for a ploughdue?
0:55:58 > 0:56:00Oh, yes, you'd have to shave a sheep or something.
0:56:00 > 0:56:04Or run naked around a field... in your Wellingtons.
0:56:06 > 0:56:09Oh, look, there's something lovely about that, though.
0:56:09 > 0:56:13Yes, it's like a fondue, it's got the cling of a fondue,
0:56:13 > 0:56:15but it's good British ale.
0:56:15 > 0:56:18Oh, hey, mate, that is brilliant.
0:56:18 > 0:56:20Mmm.
0:56:20 > 0:56:23I tell you what is remarkable.
0:56:23 > 0:56:26You can taste the hop in the bitter.
0:56:26 > 0:56:29- I'd be interested to try this with cider.- Hmm, that would be nice.
0:56:29 > 0:56:30I think it would work, I mean,
0:56:30 > 0:56:35trying to match beers with cheeses, but, you know, I think this,
0:56:35 > 0:56:39Kingy, with creating the ploughdue, I think we've scratched
0:56:39 > 0:56:43- the surface of something of a culture that could really catch on.- Hmm.
0:56:43 > 0:56:47Because the variety of cheeses we have is huge in this country,
0:56:47 > 0:56:52the variety of beer we have is huge. Let's start melting and making.
0:56:52 > 0:56:55It's worth it. The best of British cheese,
0:56:55 > 0:56:57melted and stuff dipped in it.
0:56:57 > 0:56:59Come on, you've got to love it.
0:57:02 > 0:57:05The dairy industry has, more than any other, shaped the way we eat,
0:57:05 > 0:57:07and the land that we walk on.
0:57:08 > 0:57:11Throughout history, we Brits have produced some of the best
0:57:11 > 0:57:15milk-based products in the world, and by eating or drinking them,
0:57:15 > 0:57:17you are supporting British dairy farmers.
0:57:17 > 0:57:21From the global icons that are Cheddar and Jersey cream...
0:57:21 > 0:57:23to ice cream and fancy milk desserts,
0:57:23 > 0:57:25the British dairy cow -
0:57:25 > 0:57:27we salute you.
0:57:27 > 0:57:28MOO!
0:57:28 > 0:57:31And, if you want to try out the recipes on today's show,
0:57:31 > 0:57:35visit bbc.co.uk/food.
0:57:58 > 0:58:01Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd