0:00:02 > 0:00:05We believe Britain has the best food in the world.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11'Our glorious country boasts some fantastic ingredients.'
0:00:11 > 0:00:13Start eating it, will ye!
0:00:13 > 0:00:17'It's home to some amazing producers...'
0:00:17 > 0:00:19My goodness gracious! That is epic, isn't it?
0:00:21 > 0:00:23'..and innovative chefs...
0:00:23 > 0:00:26'But our islands also have a fascinating food history...'
0:00:26 > 0:00:32The fish and chip shops of south Wales are running out of chips.
0:00:34 > 0:00:35Yes!
0:00:35 > 0:00:40'..and in this series we're uncovering revealing stories of our rich culinary past...'
0:00:42 > 0:00:44Now there is food history on a plate.
0:00:45 > 0:00:48'...as well as meeting our nation's food heroes who are keeping
0:00:48 > 0:00:49'this heritage alive.'
0:00:49 > 0:00:52Let's have them enjoying themselves.
0:00:52 > 0:00:56It's a short life. Let's make it a happy one like they always have had.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59'And of course, we'll be cooking up a load of dishes that
0:00:59 > 0:01:01'reveal our foody evolution.'
0:01:03 > 0:01:06Spring, summer, autumn or winter, it's brilliant.
0:01:08 > 0:01:11Quite simply, the best of British.
0:01:30 > 0:01:34We're an island nation, but did you know that our little island
0:01:34 > 0:01:37is surrounded by 5,000 other little islands?
0:01:37 > 0:01:41- 5,000?- Yeah. Yeah, yeah.
0:01:41 > 0:01:42Five thou...yeah. 5,000.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45Well, that's if you include...like rocks, and that.
0:01:45 > 0:01:47Well, there's at least 1,000 islands,
0:01:47 > 0:01:50and 150 of those are habitable.
0:01:52 > 0:01:55Now, a lot of those fair isles have their own food traditions
0:01:55 > 0:01:59and specialities, from heritage tomatoes on the Isle of Wight,
0:01:59 > 0:02:02to edible snails in Jersey.
0:02:02 > 0:02:06With easy access to the sea and unusual microclimates, our islands
0:02:06 > 0:02:13have a lot to bring to the plate when it comes to our wider, national cuisine.
0:02:13 > 0:02:17And today's show is dedicated to celebrating the role these
0:02:17 > 0:02:19rocky extremities have played in our foodie history,
0:02:19 > 0:02:21from the Scottish whiskeys of Islay...
0:02:24 > 0:02:27..and amazing samphire from the Isle of Wight,
0:02:27 > 0:02:31to the lesser-known aquatic treats that can be found splashing around the waters of Jersey.
0:02:31 > 0:02:37We'll be cooking up some fantastic recipes using the best island produce Britain has to offer.
0:02:40 > 0:02:43Our culinary journey starts three miles from the Hampshire coast,
0:02:43 > 0:02:46on the Isle of Wight.
0:02:46 > 0:02:50At only 147 square miles there's nowhere else in Britain with
0:02:50 > 0:02:52so many habitats squeezed in.
0:02:52 > 0:02:57And it's so sunny, Queen Victoria even got her knees out, and had a summer house built here,
0:02:57 > 0:02:59complete with its own private beach!
0:02:59 > 0:03:03But the island's so much more than just a holiday resort for royalty.
0:03:03 > 0:03:07With its lush green fields and warm sunny climate, it's known as
0:03:07 > 0:03:11"the garden isle" - a paradise for food lovers.
0:03:11 > 0:03:14We're here to meet Robert Thompson, the chef
0:03:14 > 0:03:17and proprietor of the island's only Michelin-starred restaurant,
0:03:17 > 0:03:19the Hambrough, and he's going to introduce us
0:03:19 > 0:03:22to the culinary delights of the Isle of Wight.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25Now, Robert's out collecting lots of ingredients that kind of pull
0:03:25 > 0:03:27the taste of the island together for us,
0:03:27 > 0:03:31so we're going to have to go and find him.
0:03:31 > 0:03:32# Bring me sunshine... #
0:03:32 > 0:03:35Rob became Britain's youngest Michelin-starred chef
0:03:35 > 0:03:38at the age of 23 and he's passionate about the local
0:03:38 > 0:03:40ingredients that the island has to offer.
0:03:40 > 0:03:43# ..as the sun from up above... #
0:03:43 > 0:03:45Robert!
0:03:45 > 0:03:48# Bring me sunshine, bring me love. #
0:03:48 > 0:03:50It's like Gone With The Wind!
0:03:50 > 0:03:53- Mind your step as you come over. - So what have you got there, Robert?
0:03:53 > 0:03:57Rock samphire I've just gathered from these little nooks and crannies all over the cliff.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00It's very different to the samphire that I get up at home,
0:04:00 > 0:04:02that's in the marshes.
0:04:03 > 0:04:05It's quite a citrusy flavour.
0:04:05 > 0:04:09If's a bit harsher than marsh samphire grass. Not as salty.
0:04:09 > 0:04:13Come on, man. You can imagine that going fantastically well with seafood and fish. Fabulous.
0:04:13 > 0:04:17Samphire was once particularly popular on the Isle of Wight
0:04:17 > 0:04:20and people risked their lives to collect it from the cliffs.
0:04:20 > 0:04:24Shakespeare even mentions it in the Tempest as a "dreadful trade".
0:04:25 > 0:04:29During the 19th century, samphire was shipped from the island in casks
0:04:29 > 0:04:34of seawater to London markets, but its popularity eventually declined
0:04:34 > 0:04:36due to its scarcity.
0:04:36 > 0:04:39But in recent years it's been making a comeback
0:04:39 > 0:04:42on our plates, and a good thing that is, too.
0:04:42 > 0:04:46The beauty of an island is you get great local ingredients like this
0:04:46 > 0:04:48all in one small area!
0:04:48 > 0:04:50Perfect for chefs.
0:04:50 > 0:04:54Can you put together a really true sense of what the island's about,
0:04:54 > 0:04:57and its produce, just from a little bit of foraging here and there,
0:04:57 > 0:04:59to embellish the already-existing ingredients.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02There's so many ingredients just hiding
0:05:02 > 0:05:04and all you've got to do is just go and find them,
0:05:04 > 0:05:06cook them simply, you know, take care of them
0:05:06 > 0:05:10and present it in a nice sort of dish, and job done.
0:05:10 > 0:05:13How is the samphire going to enhance the dish you're going to
0:05:13 > 0:05:14cook for us?
0:05:14 > 0:05:19I'm taking a lovely piece of sea bass. A nice...it's a fresh sea bass from this morning.
0:05:19 > 0:05:21I'm just going to pan-roast that and sit it on a nice,
0:05:21 > 0:05:23you know, pile of the rock samphire grass,
0:05:23 > 0:05:26just a little bit of butter, a little bit of nutmeg in there.
0:05:26 > 0:05:29And then a little sauce vierge with that dish.
0:05:29 > 0:05:32So the tomatoes, all that combined together - olive oil,
0:05:32 > 0:05:34a bit of lemon juice in there, fresh herbs.
0:05:34 > 0:05:37All going to combine nicely.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40Tell you what, Si, I can't wait to try this!
0:05:40 > 0:05:43It's a hard job but someone's got to do it.
0:05:43 > 0:05:48Rob is going to be combining the best that the island has to offer in his recipe,
0:05:48 > 0:05:51and there's plenty to choose from!
0:05:51 > 0:05:54The Isle of Wight is famous for its tomatoes and the climate here
0:05:54 > 0:05:58perfect for them. With more sun than other parts of the UK, they've
0:05:58 > 0:06:02been growing here since at least the 19th century, and these days
0:06:02 > 0:06:06the Isle of Wight produces over half of Britain's organic tomatoes.
0:06:06 > 0:06:11Another of the most cracking ingredients grown in the area is garlic.
0:06:11 > 0:06:14There are 8 or more varieties here, including smoked and chunky
0:06:14 > 0:06:17elephant bulbs, well suited to the climate.
0:06:17 > 0:06:18And perfect for juggling!
0:06:18 > 0:06:23It's become so successful, the island has a yearly garlic festival
0:06:23 > 0:06:27to celebrate, as you would do when you grow bulbs like this monster.
0:06:28 > 0:06:31D'you know, I looked at that garlic and I thought my eyes were playing tricks!
0:06:31 > 0:06:35- It was like garlic, but different - not as we knew it.- Look at that!
0:06:35 > 0:06:37Size of them.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40Eh! And just one clove of garlic would be sufficient.
0:06:41 > 0:06:45Oh, come on, lads. We're getting distracted looking at the Isle of Wight's shop window!
0:06:45 > 0:06:47- Yep.- We need to have some cooking.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49- OK.- Let's crack on.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52So we've got nice fillet of sea bass here, so we're just going to
0:06:52 > 0:06:55take a nice piece off, then we're just going to take that fillet,
0:06:55 > 0:06:59then you're just looking for that...you can just hear it. It's just starting to go.
0:06:59 > 0:07:01While Rob has the fish on the go,
0:07:01 > 0:07:04I'm blanching the lovely handpicked samphire.
0:07:04 > 0:07:07It only needs a couple of minutes to loosen up the flavours.
0:07:07 > 0:07:09And to think it's free!
0:07:09 > 0:07:10Oh, I love island life!
0:07:14 > 0:07:19- I think the nice thing about it is the simplicity to it that's just... - Carried away with the smell!
0:07:19 > 0:07:24Fry it up in butter and it's ready to go.
0:07:24 > 0:07:25For the herby sauce,
0:07:25 > 0:07:28Rob uses a mix of tomato varieties grown on the island, which all
0:07:28 > 0:07:31have slightly different flavours.
0:07:31 > 0:07:35- What have you done to those tomatoes? - Just taken the tops off, and then just a little bit of salt,
0:07:35 > 0:07:40a little bit of pepper, olive oil, and then just under the lights. You can put them in a low oven as well.
0:07:40 > 0:07:44But we put them under the hotplate lights just to intensify, and you can see they're just shrivelled.
0:07:44 > 0:07:50So it's like you'd have a sundried tomato - this is just like a kitchen-lamp-dried tomato!
0:07:50 > 0:07:52COOKER TIMER BUZZES That'll be the sea bass.
0:07:52 > 0:07:54Yeah - let me out! I'm hot!
0:07:54 > 0:07:57Ooh! Look at that! I cannot wait for a nibble!
0:07:58 > 0:08:02I can tell the way you're handling and treating the ingredients,
0:08:02 > 0:08:05you've got such respect for what you're cooking with.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07I mean, that bass, I've just got it this morning.
0:08:07 > 0:08:09So it's a stunning sea bass, and you can't mess about with it,
0:08:09 > 0:08:13you know. Just cook it nicely, score it perfectly.
0:08:13 > 0:08:17You know, you've got to give it respect. You have to.
0:08:17 > 0:08:22A few more minutes with a bit of butter and the fish is cooked to perfection!
0:08:23 > 0:08:24Sea bass.
0:08:29 > 0:08:31The colours are absolutely wonderful.
0:08:33 > 0:08:38As an extra delight, Rob's added some crustaceans caught right on the doorstep.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42Ooh! All this Isle of Wight loveliness gathered together on one plate.
0:08:42 > 0:08:43But he's not done yet!
0:08:43 > 0:08:47Rob's put that huge garlic to good use and he's made some crisps to go on top.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54- Are you going to try?- Oh, aye!
0:08:54 > 0:08:58Seems a shame. So lovely, isn't it?
0:08:58 > 0:09:00So lovely. It's a lovely plate of food.
0:09:05 > 0:09:07- Oh, man!- It's good?- Oh, yeah!
0:09:07 > 0:09:10I think what I'm really impressed with, Robert,
0:09:10 > 0:09:13is this rock samphire, because it just sits so nicely.
0:09:13 > 0:09:16There's that element of citrus...it just sits perfectly
0:09:16 > 0:09:19and holds the whole dish together.
0:09:19 > 0:09:21Complements everything perfectly well.
0:09:21 > 0:09:25Rob's dish is a round-the-island tour of foody goodness.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28You know, I think you've well-and-truly shown us that the
0:09:28 > 0:09:33treasures that the Isle of Wight has to offer...it's got another one as well - he's called Robert Thompson!
0:09:33 > 0:09:34Absolutely. Superb.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45Wherever you have islands you can find crabs -
0:09:45 > 0:09:49they love hanging around the seabed eating shrimps and doing their...
0:09:49 > 0:09:51well, their funny little walk...
0:09:51 > 0:09:53But cooking with crab is a relatively recent thing.
0:09:53 > 0:09:56Back in the 18th century, crabmeat was used
0:09:56 > 0:09:59mainly as bait for catching lobsters and the only people who
0:09:59 > 0:10:02ate them were fishermen - who simply boiled them.
0:10:02 > 0:10:09But there's so much more to the British crab which, prepared right, is a true delicacy.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12So, to show off its unique flavour, it's best to keep it simple.
0:10:12 > 0:10:16Our first recipe is simplicity in a crab shell.
0:10:18 > 0:10:23Look at that. That's not a crab, that's an armoured car.
0:10:23 > 0:10:26Can you imagine? That's superb.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29Now, this little segment is about how to dress a crab.
0:10:29 > 0:10:32What I would suggest is putting it
0:10:32 > 0:10:34in a Spongebob Squarepants onesie
0:10:34 > 0:10:37and your crab will be perfectly dressed.
0:10:37 > 0:10:41Mr Krabs, from the Krabby Patty! I love Spongebob.
0:10:41 > 0:10:46Now, what I'm going to do is, first of all, take their claws off.
0:10:46 > 0:10:51Just feel how the claws are articulated and pull them in the opposite direction.
0:10:51 > 0:10:54Like that, so you want to pull them towards you.
0:10:54 > 0:10:55Take these bits off.
0:10:57 > 0:10:59So, the claws are off, and now the legs.
0:11:02 > 0:11:06And we're going to deal with the body of the crab.
0:11:06 > 0:11:11Now, we need to get this bit, that attaches all the legs,
0:11:11 > 0:11:12off from the shell.
0:11:12 > 0:11:14So, what you do, crab on its back with his legs,
0:11:14 > 0:11:19or what would be, in the air, and you do that, and just pull it,
0:11:19 > 0:11:21and if it doesn't move,
0:11:21 > 0:11:26take a knife and just put it in there like that, twist it...
0:11:29 > 0:11:31and then try and pull it again.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34That's the one. Press it in like that.
0:11:34 > 0:11:35And then just...
0:11:35 > 0:11:39Now, here, we're in business. Look at all that lovely meat.
0:11:41 > 0:11:43Whilst Si does battle with our monster crab, I've got
0:11:43 > 0:11:49the strenuous job of grating a couple of hard-boiled eggs through a sieve.
0:11:50 > 0:11:52Do the whites and yolks separately
0:11:52 > 0:11:55and you'll end up with a fluffy artist's palette of colour.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00The bits that you really don't want to eat on a crab,
0:12:00 > 0:12:02there's only a few of them.
0:12:02 > 0:12:05In the corners here, there's a little membrane.
0:12:05 > 0:12:07You don't want to eat that, so discard that.
0:12:07 > 0:12:11And these are called dead man's fingers. They're not.
0:12:11 > 0:12:14You're not going to die if you eat them but they're just, ugh,
0:12:14 > 0:12:16they taste like feathers.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18They call them feathers, don't they, some people?
0:12:18 > 0:12:20And they're just the filter unit
0:12:20 > 0:12:23of this beautiful, beautiful crustacean.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27With all the feathers and membrane removed, you can
0:12:27 > 0:12:29begin to get to the good stuff.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32If you've got a tin dish, use that to put the meat in,
0:12:32 > 0:12:36because you'll hear any missed bits of shell as you drop the meat in.
0:12:38 > 0:12:40I'll come back to this bit in a minute.
0:12:40 > 0:12:43But, let's do the easy bit first.
0:12:43 > 0:12:47This is where the brown meat lives, right inside the shell.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49You always said you prefer crab to lobster, don't you?
0:12:49 > 0:12:52Yeah, my dad used to always use the brown meat,
0:12:52 > 0:12:55mix it with hard-boiled eggs and make crab pate on toast.
0:12:55 > 0:12:58- It was lovely.- Fantastic.- Then we'd have the white meat separate.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01I suppose that's how you got two meals out of a crab, really.
0:13:01 > 0:13:03Absolutely. And I think that's the thing.
0:13:03 > 0:13:07We're an island race, and around islands, normally, you get great crab,
0:13:07 > 0:13:11and the great thing about that is, you just let the ingredients
0:13:11 > 0:13:13speak for themselves, which is what your dad did, didn't he?
0:13:13 > 0:13:15Yeah, yeah.
0:13:15 > 0:13:20Look at that. That's all beautiful, beautiful meat.
0:13:20 > 0:13:23Now, back to the main body.
0:13:23 > 0:13:27Cut through the centre of this.
0:13:27 > 0:13:29Quite hard to do, but it's worth it.
0:13:30 > 0:13:33All that is white meat.
0:13:33 > 0:13:36Now, these are picks, and these implements are an exercise
0:13:36 > 0:13:38in getting into the nooks and crannies.
0:13:38 > 0:13:40It's great practice
0:13:40 > 0:13:42if you're thinking of going in for a career in dentistry.
0:13:42 > 0:13:46Or chiropody, for that matter. Indeed. He says, working on the feet!
0:13:46 > 0:13:48DAVE LAUGHS
0:13:48 > 0:13:53Now, these bad boys. Again, they articulate one way.
0:13:53 > 0:13:54And just break them
0:13:54 > 0:13:58In the opposite direction to the way that they articulate.
0:13:58 > 0:14:03Next bit, a good, sharp tap, and again on this side,
0:14:03 > 0:14:07and that should break the claw, look.
0:14:09 > 0:14:10Clean as a whistle.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15It might be worth warning your neighbours before you start on this,
0:14:15 > 0:14:19because for a while, your kitchen's to sound like a building site.
0:14:21 > 0:14:25But, for all this elbow grease, the end product looks rather pretty.
0:14:25 > 0:14:30So, what you can do, there is a line that runs,
0:14:30 > 0:14:32and I don't know whether you can see this here,
0:14:32 > 0:14:35what you want to do, you want to take that off,
0:14:35 > 0:14:37because that's how we kind of open the shell up,
0:14:37 > 0:14:40and then we're able to use this shell to dress the crab.
0:14:42 > 0:14:45- Just start it off...- By 'eck, there's some meat in this crab!
0:14:45 > 0:14:47..with a pair of scissors.
0:14:47 > 0:14:51And what it'll do, it'll fracture down this line.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58See? And then it will just pull off.
0:14:59 > 0:15:02Crab is enormously underrated,
0:15:02 > 0:15:05and one of the most nutritious seafoods you can eat.
0:15:05 > 0:15:07They are a goldmine of flavour.
0:15:07 > 0:15:10The dark meat provides an earthy, savoury base note
0:15:10 > 0:15:13while the white meat is more, well, exquisite and gentle.
0:15:13 > 0:15:16It's funny, when you start to put it all back together you wonder
0:15:16 > 0:15:19- how it all came out of that crab. - That's true!
0:15:19 > 0:15:22For the finishing touches, we are going to carefully adorn the crab
0:15:22 > 0:15:25with Dave's egg fluff, a few capers
0:15:25 > 0:15:29and a sprig or two of parsley, finely chopped.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36Bravo. There we are. One classically dressed crab.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39Picking the meat out of a crab may be a labour of love,
0:15:39 > 0:15:44but it's worth the fuss. Our British crabs are world-class.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49They say no man is an island, Kingy, but if I had to be one,
0:15:49 > 0:15:52it would be Islay, it would be in the Inner Hebrides.
0:15:52 > 0:15:54Wouldn't you rather be, like, Barbados or something?
0:15:54 > 0:15:58Oh, no, you see, this little island might be less than 30 miles wide
0:15:58 > 0:16:01and 30 miles long, but it's the centre of the universe
0:16:01 > 0:16:04when it comes to the wondrous world of whisky.
0:16:09 > 0:16:14I tell you what, mate, you would definitely be the most popular person at any party, all right.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17Aye, and with the Customs and Excise office, too.
0:16:18 > 0:16:22The very name "Islay" warms the heart of Inland Revenue men,
0:16:22 > 0:16:26just as, no doubt, on occasions, Islay's chief product
0:16:26 > 0:16:30warms their innards, because this is whisky Islay.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33# Whisky do your stuff
0:16:33 > 0:16:35# Till I've had enough... #
0:16:35 > 0:16:38Today, the small island of Islay produces around 25 million litres
0:16:38 > 0:16:42of whisky annually, in its eight working distilleries.
0:16:42 > 0:16:45That's a quarter of Scotland's malt whisky exports.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48And they've been at it for hundreds of years.
0:16:48 > 0:16:49# Whisky do your stuff...
0:16:49 > 0:16:53Since the 18th century, it's been home to some of the finest
0:16:53 > 0:16:56distilleries in the world, numbering over 200 in its history.
0:16:56 > 0:16:59Producing the water of life, or Uisge Beatha,
0:16:59 > 0:17:02as it's called in these parts, with a very distinct taste.
0:17:04 > 0:17:07The spirit produced on Islay
0:17:07 > 0:17:10is of a complete and single quality
0:17:10 > 0:17:15and character than is to be found in any other part of Scotland.
0:17:15 > 0:17:18It is said that the sea salt air that blows across the island
0:17:18 > 0:17:21gives the whisky a unique flavour of the sea.
0:17:21 > 0:17:24But another key factor in its quality
0:17:24 > 0:17:26lies beneath the islanders' feet.
0:17:26 > 0:17:30The furnace below the kiln is served with coke and peat.
0:17:30 > 0:17:32The aroma of the peat imparted to the barley
0:17:32 > 0:17:36during this drying stage eventually gives character to the whisky.
0:17:36 > 0:17:40Men are turning over the drying malt amidst the aroma of the peat,
0:17:40 > 0:17:42the peat reek, as it's called.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45The fact Islay is largely composed of rich and anything but reeky peat
0:17:45 > 0:17:50undoubtedly led to its whisky's prized and discernible flavour.
0:17:50 > 0:17:54When it is put into casks for maturing, by law,
0:17:54 > 0:17:58Scotch whisky must not be less than three-years-old.
0:17:58 > 0:18:01Yes, this is powerful stuff, all right.
0:18:01 > 0:18:04# It's a Scotch on the rocks... #
0:18:04 > 0:18:07But it wasn't just the flavoursome whisky that led to the business
0:18:07 > 0:18:10being so prolific on the island.
0:18:10 > 0:18:14Surprisingly, it was more down to a bit of a historical oversight.
0:18:15 > 0:18:19After the union with England, it became the only place in Scotland
0:18:19 > 0:18:21where no government excise officer operated.
0:18:21 > 0:18:27Oops! And with no-one collecting taxes from 1707 until 1823,
0:18:27 > 0:18:30it was just like the gold rush for renegade distillers.
0:18:30 > 0:18:34And without these cunning rascals, the industry might never have grown
0:18:34 > 0:18:36into the whisky powerhouse it became.
0:18:36 > 0:18:39SPEAKEASY JAZZ
0:18:40 > 0:18:43Today, the spirit is one of Scotland's most lucrative
0:18:43 > 0:18:46exports and global sales are at an all-time high.
0:18:47 > 0:18:51So Islay's liquid gold looks set to warm the world's cockles
0:18:51 > 0:18:55and enrich the nation's coffers for many years to come.
0:18:55 > 0:18:57So, it's time to see if we can dream up some way
0:18:57 > 0:19:00of putting that amber nectar to good use.
0:19:04 > 0:19:08Now, the best thing to do, without a doubt, with Islay malt,
0:19:08 > 0:19:09is to drink it.
0:19:09 > 0:19:10And, without a doubt,
0:19:10 > 0:19:12the second best thing to do with Islay malt is to make
0:19:12 > 0:19:15that world-famous dessert, cranachan,
0:19:15 > 0:19:18which is exactly what we're about to do.
0:19:18 > 0:19:20Cra-na-chan!
0:19:20 > 0:19:24This extravagant-looking pud was originally a harvest festival version
0:19:24 > 0:19:26of the humble Scottish breakfast.
0:19:26 > 0:19:30But I don't think anyone could accuse this of being porridge.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33Now, what I'm going to do, I'm going to get some porridge oats,
0:19:33 > 0:19:36I'm going to put them in a frying pan and guess what?
0:19:36 > 0:19:39- I'm going to toast them with some almonds.- And I'm going to mix it.
0:19:39 > 0:19:41Now, the thing is, Islay malt whiskies, I think
0:19:41 > 0:19:44are some of my favourites in the world. It's a bit of...
0:19:44 > 0:19:47# Way bonny boat like a bird on the wings
0:19:47 > 0:19:50# Over the sea to Skye... #
0:19:50 > 0:19:53Right, anyway. Cranachan-bound.
0:19:53 > 0:19:56What I'm going to do, I'm going to toast porridge oats, I'm going
0:19:56 > 0:20:02to toast them off in a dry frying pan with some almonds.
0:20:02 > 0:20:06Now, you want to toast these over a medium heat for about 10 minutes.
0:20:06 > 0:20:07That's it.
0:20:07 > 0:20:10- Oats are fascinating, aren't they?- Oats are.
0:20:10 > 0:20:14They are packed with more goodness than any other form of cereal.
0:20:14 > 0:20:18They also contain more fat. And they reckon there's so many Scottish high achievers
0:20:18 > 0:20:24- because, as a race, they eat more oatmeal than any other.- Wow! Eh?!
0:20:25 > 0:20:27So, in the bowl, we put cream.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30Now I've made a bit of a change
0:20:30 > 0:20:33to what otherwise is quite traditional recipe.
0:20:33 > 0:20:35We're using half fat creme fraiche,
0:20:35 > 0:20:37gives it a little bit more of a sour note,
0:20:37 > 0:20:39but also to make it a little bit lighter.
0:20:39 > 0:20:41Ooh!
0:20:42 > 0:20:44So, mix the creme fraiche with the cream.
0:20:45 > 0:20:51Now, we want some vanilla extract. We make our own.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54All the vanilla pods we use for baking, we've slashed them
0:20:54 > 0:20:57and taken the seeds out, and put them in brandy.
0:20:57 > 0:21:01Just keep popping them in a bottle. And with the process of time,
0:21:01 > 0:21:04you get the most wonderful home-made vanilla extract.
0:21:04 > 0:21:06Smell that!
0:21:06 > 0:21:10- Lovely, isn't it?- Mmm! - Did you get it, Mrs Arthur, did you?
0:21:10 > 0:21:11Good lass.
0:21:11 > 0:21:12Half a teaspoon.
0:21:15 > 0:21:20And now to uncork the treasure of the Northern Isles - ooh, my favourite bit.
0:21:20 > 0:21:21CORK SQUEAKS THEN POPS
0:21:21 > 0:21:23Oh!
0:21:23 > 0:21:25BAGPIPES STRIKE UP
0:21:25 > 0:21:28Three tablespoons of malt whisky.
0:21:40 > 0:21:44If Arnold Schwarzenegger was a trifle, he'd be cranachan,
0:21:44 > 0:21:46- wouldn't he?- He would, yes!
0:21:46 > 0:21:49It's like, you know, it's got muscles on its spit,
0:21:49 > 0:21:51this pudding, it's great.
0:21:51 > 0:21:56Now I want three tablespoons-ish of honey.
0:21:56 > 0:22:00- Three?- About. Now, we whip this until it's thick.
0:22:00 > 0:22:03Don't over-whip it because some of the oats and nuts are going to
0:22:03 > 0:22:05sink into it and thicken it even further.
0:22:06 > 0:22:08Just keep turning it.
0:22:10 > 0:22:11Turning it over.
0:22:14 > 0:22:17And whilst Dave makes all that noise I'm going to do something
0:22:17 > 0:22:19a little more soothing.
0:22:19 > 0:22:20A raspberry puree.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25Mamma!
0:22:25 > 0:22:29Put a few of them back. Maybe it was a bit much.
0:22:30 > 0:22:33All I'm doing is pushing the raspberries through a sieve
0:22:33 > 0:22:34with the back of a spoon.
0:22:34 > 0:22:36None of the seeds make it through the mesh
0:22:36 > 0:22:40and all the luscious loveliness does.
0:22:40 > 0:22:42Nice!
0:22:43 > 0:22:47That bit, you don't want, that other bit, you do.
0:22:47 > 0:22:49It really is worth making some of this,
0:22:49 > 0:22:53and you don't need that much to make a hell of an impression.
0:22:53 > 0:22:54What a puree!
0:22:54 > 0:22:56What I'm going to do with that
0:22:56 > 0:22:59is just put some caster sugar in to sweeten it.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03About one to one-and-a-half.
0:23:07 > 0:23:09Just like that raspberry sauce you used to have on ice cream
0:23:09 > 0:23:12- and call it monkey's blood.- Oh, yeah!
0:23:12 > 0:23:15Once the oats have browned slightly take them off the heat
0:23:15 > 0:23:17and allow them to cool.
0:23:17 > 0:23:19The components are here.
0:23:21 > 0:23:25Now, what we want to do is, Dave's going to form layers.
0:23:25 > 0:23:27Those layers need to be loose.
0:23:27 > 0:23:29You know, relaxed.
0:23:29 > 0:23:32It's a free-form pud, isn't it?
0:23:32 > 0:23:35I haven't done this too much, I've still got a bit of flow on it.
0:23:35 > 0:23:37Soft peak, lovely.
0:23:41 > 0:23:45# Baby don't take my whisky away from me... #
0:23:48 > 0:23:50# Baby don't take... #
0:23:50 > 0:23:52It's a really easy pudding, this, and it's one,
0:23:52 > 0:23:53if you take all the components,
0:23:53 > 0:23:56you can actually assemble it at the table in front of your guests.
0:23:56 > 0:23:58But one thing it doesn't do, it doesn't last.
0:23:58 > 0:24:01And it doesn't last cos it's delicious.
0:24:01 > 0:24:03But you can't make it an hour before and serve it,
0:24:03 > 0:24:06you're just going to have, like, a pot of mush.
0:24:06 > 0:24:07There you are, mucker.
0:24:07 > 0:24:09More of this stuff.
0:24:09 > 0:24:10Loose-form blobs.
0:24:20 > 0:24:26- Such a lovely pudding. this.- Isn't it?- It's lush.- Some more berries.
0:24:26 > 0:24:29It's full of bad stuff, but you've also got a bit of vitamin C,
0:24:29 > 0:24:30- haven't you?- Aye.
0:24:30 > 0:24:33Actually, it's important to remember that Scotland is THE region
0:24:33 > 0:24:40for berries. Loganberries, tayberries, raspberries.
0:24:40 > 0:24:43And, to top off, a lovely drizzle of heather honey.
0:24:52 > 0:24:57The engine room of that is produced on an island, the isle of Islay.
0:24:57 > 0:25:00You'd never be able to drink it with a straw.
0:25:00 > 0:25:01No, but you can eat it with a spoon.
0:25:12 > 0:25:14Mmm!
0:25:17 > 0:25:19- That just works so well, doesn't it?- Oh, it does.
0:25:20 > 0:25:25The great thing about cranachan is the textural differences.
0:25:25 > 0:25:29You've got the crunchy oats and toasted flavours of the oats
0:25:29 > 0:25:37and the almonds, the soft cream and that lovely, lovely berry fruit.
0:25:37 > 0:25:40Yeah, and the whisky underneath all that,
0:25:40 > 0:25:44gives it quite a grown-up, sophisticated flavour.
0:25:44 > 0:25:48Here, Kingy, cheers, let's raise a glass as a fitting tribute
0:25:48 > 0:25:51to our five thousand islands.
0:25:51 > 0:25:52May they never sink.
0:25:56 > 0:25:58Next, we're off to the Channel Islands
0:25:58 > 0:26:02and when you think of Jersey's offerings to the world of gastronomy,
0:26:02 > 0:26:07what first springs to mind may be its luxurious cream or superior potatoes.
0:26:07 > 0:26:11But, hidden within its shallow waters is a very,
0:26:11 > 0:26:14how do you say this? Unique delicacy.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16What the heck is that?!
0:26:16 > 0:26:18Our funny looking friend, here, Dave, is an ormer,
0:26:18 > 0:26:22a type of edible sea snail which grow all over the world.
0:26:22 > 0:26:24Where they are also known as abalone.
0:26:28 > 0:26:31It might look like the alien from a 1950s B-movie but,
0:26:31 > 0:26:34according to the folk of Jersey, this little beauty
0:26:34 > 0:26:39makes fantastic eating and was traditionally cooked in a stew.
0:26:39 > 0:26:40It's so tasty, in fact,
0:26:40 > 0:26:44it was almost lost from their dinner plates for good.
0:26:44 > 0:26:46Ormers had been gathered here for centuries
0:26:46 > 0:26:48but they were so popular with the Victorians,
0:26:48 > 0:26:51they were overfished, and became increasingly rare.
0:26:52 > 0:26:54Despite overfishing,
0:26:54 > 0:26:57the industry limped on until disaster struck in the 1990s
0:26:57 > 0:27:01when a disease destroyed more than half the Channel Islands' stock,
0:27:01 > 0:27:03and strict controls were put in place.
0:27:05 > 0:27:08Now, if you want to catch an ormer,
0:27:08 > 0:27:10they have to be over nine centimetres and can only be collected
0:27:10 > 0:27:15at restricted times of the year, to allow stocks to replenish.
0:27:15 > 0:27:16It might sound like a bleak picture
0:27:16 > 0:27:19but, thanks to some Jersey food heroes,
0:27:19 > 0:27:23the ormer's making a comeback even Elvis would be proud of.
0:27:25 > 0:27:28Justin Surcouf has been working tirelessly for the last six years
0:27:28 > 0:27:31to get them back into the water and back onto our plates.
0:27:31 > 0:27:34By farming rather than fishing them.
0:27:35 > 0:27:39And it's needed some serious dedication.
0:27:39 > 0:27:42They need constant attention, constant feeding, constant nurturing,
0:27:42 > 0:27:46so it's got to be a labour of love and that's what I love doing.
0:27:46 > 0:27:48I love producing them, seeing the end result
0:27:48 > 0:27:51from an egg, nothing, to this.
0:27:52 > 0:27:54They're beautiful.
0:27:54 > 0:27:56Poor Justin's got thousands of tiny mouths to feed,
0:27:56 > 0:28:00and when I say thousands, I mean thousands.
0:28:06 > 0:28:10It looks like a Hogwarts potion class, and this is actually
0:28:10 > 0:28:13an ormer kitchen, where Justin makes the food to feed them up
0:28:13 > 0:28:16from tiny wee eggs into big, juicy adults
0:28:16 > 0:28:19In this room we produce algae and diatoms, which the ormers graze on
0:28:19 > 0:28:26from when they're first, a larvae until nearly 1mm.
0:28:26 > 0:28:28We're trying to give them the best algaes
0:28:28 > 0:28:32and the best foods which will make them grow
0:28:32 > 0:28:36and be healthy animals so they grow big, fat and meaty.
0:28:38 > 0:28:39It's pioneering work
0:28:39 > 0:28:43but this is currently the only place in the British Isles that grows them.
0:28:43 > 0:28:48There's no book that I know of that you can read and it tells you everything about them.
0:28:48 > 0:28:53I don't think there's a day gone that you haven't learned something new.
0:28:53 > 0:28:56With great care and attention, Justin nurtures the ormers
0:28:56 > 0:29:01in giant tanks, until they're like little teenagers, ready to move on.
0:29:01 > 0:29:04This is grown by my own hands and we've created these -
0:29:04 > 0:29:09very exciting, because it's never, ever been done.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12When they're four-months-old, the ormers are taken from the nursery
0:29:12 > 0:29:14into the big, wide world
0:29:14 > 0:29:17and grown in undersea cages until they're ready to scran.
0:29:19 > 0:29:21Because they're farmed rather than wild ormers,
0:29:21 > 0:29:25Justin can sell them smaller than the 90 millimetre legal limit.
0:29:25 > 0:29:29His company's hoping to market these smaller ones as "cocktail ormers",
0:29:29 > 0:29:31hoping to broaden their appeal.
0:29:33 > 0:29:37This is a big moment for Justin. It's his first ever harvest
0:29:37 > 0:29:41and all of those years of hard work are coming together.
0:29:41 > 0:29:43This is the size of ormers we're looking for,
0:29:43 > 0:29:4655 millimetres which is a perfect cocktail ormer.
0:29:47 > 0:29:51And it's very exciting, because it's the whole process finished.
0:29:53 > 0:29:57To promote the business, Justin takes them back to the beach to show
0:29:57 > 0:30:01off to local chefs - the first time his ormers have ever been tasted.
0:30:03 > 0:30:07A quick-fry up by business partner Gary, and they're looking top-notch.
0:30:11 > 0:30:13- That is delicious.- Beautiful.
0:30:13 > 0:30:16They've got super flavour. I really like them, actually.
0:30:16 > 0:30:20But there's one important person who's yet to try one.
0:30:23 > 0:30:25Mmm!
0:30:26 > 0:30:29Justin's ormers are a great hope for the future.
0:30:29 > 0:30:33But this is a delicacy all about heritage, too.
0:30:33 > 0:30:38The traditional way of cooking them up is in a casserole.
0:30:38 > 0:30:41Mary John has been eating them like this since she was little.
0:30:42 > 0:30:46I remember the first time I had ormer casserole.
0:30:46 > 0:30:49I think I must have been about six or seven
0:30:49 > 0:30:53and they didn't really give you the ormer at all.
0:30:53 > 0:30:56They only gave you the gravy with the potato,
0:30:56 > 0:31:00because all the grown-ups had the ormers.
0:31:00 > 0:31:02That's a bit mean!
0:31:02 > 0:31:04You just take your ormer
0:31:04 > 0:31:08and cut it from the bottom out of the shell
0:31:08 > 0:31:10and then pull the ormer out.
0:31:11 > 0:31:15Well, this is not really wanting to make me eat it, Mary!
0:31:15 > 0:31:20This is the dirtiest part, but once this is done, they're not too bad.
0:31:23 > 0:31:26Afterwards, you give them a really good scrub.
0:31:26 > 0:31:29And then they look quite edible.
0:31:32 > 0:31:35It's essential, really, before you cook them,
0:31:35 > 0:31:39that you have to scrub them and clean off all this black
0:31:39 > 0:31:42from the sea and seaweed, and all these bits.
0:31:42 > 0:31:46And they should really be eaten when there is not an R in the month.
0:31:46 > 0:31:50Pork, they always say you shouldn't eat it in very hot weather.
0:31:50 > 0:31:53I imagine it must be something like that with the ormers.
0:31:53 > 0:31:57But it's an old Jersey thing. Now, you can see, it's so much whiter.
0:31:57 > 0:32:01After a quick dry with a towel, Mary jabs the thickest part with a fork.
0:32:01 > 0:32:05For her, this is a recipe with deep roots.
0:32:05 > 0:32:08I do think it's very important to pass on things like this.
0:32:08 > 0:32:11If you don't pass the recipes on, then they simply disappear,
0:32:11 > 0:32:13which would be such a pity.
0:32:13 > 0:32:18She then tenderises the ormers with a rolling pin, as you would a steak.
0:32:18 > 0:32:22These are larger ormers than the farmed ones and need a bit more work.
0:32:22 > 0:32:25I think sometimes it does you good, especially if
0:32:25 > 0:32:30you're in a bad temper, to give all these ormers a good beating!
0:32:30 > 0:32:32Tell them who's boss, Mary!
0:32:33 > 0:32:37After giving them a good hiding, she fries them up with shallots.
0:32:37 > 0:32:39Then the whole lot goes in the oven.
0:32:39 > 0:32:41And eight hours later, Mary has done Jersey proud.
0:32:47 > 0:32:50Served up with a good dollop of Jersey potato mash,
0:32:50 > 0:32:52Mary's delicious ormers are ready for eating.
0:33:00 > 0:33:02It's really nice, very good, yes.
0:33:03 > 0:33:06It might seem like they're only for the adventurous,
0:33:06 > 0:33:10but these island delights are more than just a tasty snack.
0:33:10 > 0:33:14Ormers are as much part of Jersey as warm weather, Jersey cows
0:33:14 > 0:33:17and the TV sleuth, Bergerac.
0:33:17 > 0:33:18Because they're so scarce,
0:33:18 > 0:33:20you might be hard pushed to get hold of an ormer,
0:33:20 > 0:33:23so for our next recipe, we're using an ingredient
0:33:23 > 0:33:27that's just as tasty, but can be found at your local supermarket.
0:33:28 > 0:33:32Let me introduce you to a national treasure. Simon King.
0:33:32 > 0:33:34No, the Isle of Man Queenie.
0:33:34 > 0:33:36It's brilliant.
0:33:37 > 0:33:41Look at it. Sweet, beautiful.
0:33:41 > 0:33:44The smallest of the scallop family, but small packages
0:33:44 > 0:33:48are wonderful things, and these are sweet and gorgeous.
0:33:50 > 0:33:55Yep, It's our favourite bivalve mollusc - the queen scallop.
0:33:55 > 0:33:58The Manx Queenie is especially good due to the clear, deep waters
0:33:58 > 0:34:01and strong tide that flows around the island,
0:34:01 > 0:34:04providing the little Queenie with all the plankton she can eat.
0:34:04 > 0:34:08And every year, the islanders hold a week-long festival in her honour.
0:34:08 > 0:34:10And frankly, I don't blame them.
0:34:11 > 0:34:15And, with this island treasure, we're going to do an Asian twist.
0:34:15 > 0:34:18In fact, we're going to just batter it, and that's British,
0:34:18 > 0:34:21but we're going to do sesame tempura Queenie scallops
0:34:21 > 0:34:25and we're going to serve that with a ponzu dressing,
0:34:25 > 0:34:27which is a lovely citrus soy dressing.
0:34:27 > 0:34:31And, just because we can, we're going to do some asparagus tempura as well.
0:34:31 > 0:34:35And with that sesame batter, it's going to be so indulgent,
0:34:35 > 0:34:40- but light and fabulous. But it's all about the Queenies.- It certainly is.
0:34:40 > 0:34:43Now, what you do, in the half shell, you just treat them
0:34:43 > 0:34:48very gently and move your thumbnail across and underneath it,
0:34:48 > 0:34:51and it will come off as clean as a whistle.
0:34:51 > 0:34:57And then, this bit here, very gently, just pull it away.
0:34:57 > 0:35:02Look at that. Right, asparagus. All we do is, we want the tips.
0:35:03 > 0:35:07I'm going to blanch these for precisely 90 seconds.
0:35:07 > 0:35:09British asparagus is very seasonal.
0:35:09 > 0:35:11It's only available for eight weeks of the year,
0:35:11 > 0:35:15but it's worth waiting for, as it's the best in the world.
0:35:15 > 0:35:18While Dave's doing that, all I'm doing is, I'm just rolling
0:35:18 > 0:35:22the beautiful Queenie scallop on some kitchen paper.
0:35:22 > 0:35:25And it's just to dry them off so that, when the batter does
0:35:25 > 0:35:29sit on them, it'll sit on them for as long as possible.
0:35:29 > 0:35:32When the asparagus has turned a vibrant green, drain
0:35:32 > 0:35:37and rinse in cold water to stop it cooking any further and going soft.
0:35:37 > 0:35:40I'm going to go and get our ponzu dressing now.
0:35:40 > 0:35:44And it's really quite a simple little number, and it's brilliant.
0:35:44 > 0:35:45Doesn't take long to cook,
0:35:45 > 0:35:48and there's not a lot of ingredients in it.
0:35:49 > 0:35:51It took a while to catch on
0:35:51 > 0:35:54but we Brits have really embraced Japanese food.
0:35:54 > 0:35:57It's now the fastest-growing cuisine in the country, which means
0:35:57 > 0:36:01you should be able to get hold of these ingredients quite easily.
0:36:01 > 0:36:03We've used 100 millilitres of mirin,
0:36:03 > 0:36:07which is a seasoning made of sweet rice wine.
0:36:07 > 0:36:13One tablespoon of rice wine vinegar and 75 millilitres of dark soy.
0:36:13 > 0:36:17And a strip of this stuff - kombu.
0:36:17 > 0:36:24Kombu is available in most Asian supermarkets.
0:36:24 > 0:36:28It can also be found lying on most island beaches.
0:36:28 > 0:36:30Indeed. It's seaweed.
0:36:30 > 0:36:31OK?
0:36:31 > 0:36:35Pop your kombu into your ponzu and heat for three minutes,
0:36:35 > 0:36:36or until reduced by half.
0:36:38 > 0:36:41I'll get on with the batter. You take some cornflour.
0:36:43 > 0:36:45And mix that with regular flour.
0:36:48 > 0:36:52And, to this, we're going to add a tablespoon of sesame seeds.
0:36:52 > 0:36:55Now, the sesame seeds are going to toast and pop.
0:36:55 > 0:36:58And now, the secret to a really good tempura batter.
0:36:58 > 0:37:00Take some freezing cold sparkling mineral water
0:37:00 > 0:37:03and add 100 millilitres to an egg yolk.
0:37:05 > 0:37:06See?
0:37:07 > 0:37:12The bubbles and the temperature are important to getting a light,
0:37:12 > 0:37:18crispy batter. Now, we mix that with the flours and the sesame seeds.
0:37:20 > 0:37:23Stir it up a bit but don't worry about trying to get rid of the lumps.
0:37:23 > 0:37:25We want lumps!
0:37:25 > 0:37:29Add another 100 millilitres of fizzy water and mix again.
0:37:29 > 0:37:34Once the dressing has reduced in the pan, discard the seaweed and
0:37:34 > 0:37:38let the liquid cool before adding two tablespoonfuls of this stuff.
0:37:38 > 0:37:42It's what gives the dressing its name - ponzu sauce.
0:37:42 > 0:37:45It is available at all good Asian supermarkets.
0:37:47 > 0:37:50If you can't get this, just use lemon juice.
0:37:50 > 0:37:52So, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice
0:37:52 > 0:37:57or two tablespoonfuls of this citrus seasoned soy.
0:37:57 > 0:37:59Now, tempura is quick, it's quick to happen,
0:37:59 > 0:38:03so you need to make sure you have everything ready.
0:38:03 > 0:38:04Everything at hand.
0:38:04 > 0:38:07Tip one, put the batter right next to the fryer
0:38:07 > 0:38:11so you don't dribble the batter all over your best table.
0:38:11 > 0:38:14At about 180 degrees, hot fat.
0:38:14 > 0:38:17Take a piece of the blanched asparagus,
0:38:17 > 0:38:22pop it in the batter, take it out quickly, put it in the oil.
0:38:22 > 0:38:24Off it pops, in fact, you could do a load.
0:38:30 > 0:38:32After about two minutes, the batter should go crisp,
0:38:32 > 0:38:34which means it's ready.
0:38:39 > 0:38:45See how crispy they are. Oops! Hee-hee! Oh, I love it!
0:38:50 > 0:38:53This ponzu sauce is for dipping, and I'm going to dress it with very
0:38:53 > 0:38:58finely sliced chilli and some spring onions, but just the green bit.
0:38:58 > 0:39:00Thoroughly chopped.
0:39:02 > 0:39:05Time to get on with the Queenies now. Just like with the asparagus,
0:39:05 > 0:39:10put them into the hot fat before the lovely, frothy batter slips off.
0:39:12 > 0:39:17- Here you are, mate, here's your big dish.- Lovely.- Nearly there.
0:39:17 > 0:39:19Scallops don't need a lot of cooking.
0:39:19 > 0:39:22A couple of minutes in the fryer should be long enough.
0:39:25 > 0:39:27Ooh, here we go. Oh-ho-ho! Yes!
0:39:29 > 0:39:35- Ye Gods! It's like shellfish popcorn. - Get in!- There you are.
0:39:39 > 0:39:43A bed of asparagus tempura, then the scallops.
0:39:50 > 0:39:52Check it out.
0:39:52 > 0:39:55A beautiful fusion of the best Japanese techniques
0:39:55 > 0:39:59with great British produce - asparagus and Queenie scallops.
0:40:01 > 0:40:02It's slightly undercooked
0:40:02 > 0:40:05because it's steamed in that little batter casket.
0:40:08 > 0:40:10What's not to love?
0:40:10 > 0:40:12This is like a union of islands, isn't it, really?
0:40:12 > 0:40:16I mean, Japan's got lots of islands, we've got lots of islands.
0:40:16 > 0:40:19And in this little archipelago of culinary love,
0:40:19 > 0:40:21we've brought them together.
0:40:21 > 0:40:23Do you know, with all of these islands
0:40:23 > 0:40:26knocking around the place, I'd like one of my own. I can see it now.
0:40:26 > 0:40:31King Si of New Siland. It's got a nice ring to it, hasn't it?
0:40:31 > 0:40:34Not going to happen, mate. They'd have the army in.
0:40:34 > 0:40:38But there's one very special island in Britain that does have its own king and queen.
0:40:38 > 0:40:42Piel Island lies off the coast of my home town of Barrow in Furness
0:40:42 > 0:40:46where King Stephen Chataway and his lovely Queen, Sheila,
0:40:46 > 0:40:50rule over a culinary kingdom, complete with its own castle.
0:40:50 > 0:40:54But you'll mostly find the current monarch in the pub.
0:40:54 > 0:40:57Being island royalty goes hand-in-velvet-glove
0:40:57 > 0:40:59with being landlord of The Ship Inn.
0:40:59 > 0:41:04The size of my kingdom is approximately 50 acres.
0:41:04 > 0:41:09Somebody once said, "There's a pub, there's a castle, there's a king."
0:41:09 > 0:41:11What more do you need?
0:41:11 > 0:41:13Dream job or what?
0:41:13 > 0:41:18'The first recorded king I think was James Hool in about 1720.
0:41:18 > 0:41:20'So I think I'm about'
0:41:20 > 0:41:22number 29 on the list of kings.
0:41:22 > 0:41:27It's still quite an honour. It's quite a select group.
0:41:27 > 0:41:29I'm proud to be part of it. It's brilliant.
0:41:29 > 0:41:32One boozy night out in the 18th century,
0:41:32 > 0:41:35Piel residents decided to elect their own king
0:41:35 > 0:41:37for a bit of a giggle,
0:41:37 > 0:41:41a tradition that was inspired by some real drama on the island.
0:41:41 > 0:41:46In 1487, a young boy called Lambert Simnel landed here
0:41:46 > 0:41:48with several thousand mercenaries.
0:41:48 > 0:41:52He was a pawn in an aristocratic power struggle,
0:41:52 > 0:41:56but his supporters claimed he was the rightful King of England.
0:41:56 > 0:41:59At the battle of Stoke Field in Nottinghamshire,
0:41:59 > 0:42:03Lambert's army was defeated by the actual king, Henry VII.
0:42:04 > 0:42:07As he was only 11-years-old, instead of having him executed,
0:42:07 > 0:42:11Henry gave him a servant's job in the kitchen, turning meat on a spit.
0:42:13 > 0:42:18As well as being ruler and landlord, these days the king is also the chef.
0:42:18 > 0:42:20Today's a special day on the island.
0:42:20 > 0:42:23A rare ceremonial knighting is taking place
0:42:23 > 0:42:26and inspired by Lambert Simnel's story,
0:42:26 > 0:42:30Steve is going to be spit-roasting a large piece of meat.
0:42:30 > 0:42:33The butchers on the mainland have got him an entire
0:42:33 > 0:42:36locally-sourced porker for a right royal feast.
0:42:36 > 0:42:38Cheers, Neil. Thanks, Michael.
0:42:38 > 0:42:39And you've guessed it.
0:42:39 > 0:42:45There's only one way to cook a piece of meat of that size - hog roast!
0:42:46 > 0:42:49There is one tricky thing about living on an island -
0:42:49 > 0:42:53getting there with a big slab of pork means swapping
0:42:53 > 0:42:55one's royal carriage for a 4x4
0:42:55 > 0:42:59to get across the rough seabed while the tide's out.
0:42:59 > 0:43:02Where's a servant when one needs one?
0:43:03 > 0:43:07Being king of an island is starting to look like jolly hard work.
0:43:10 > 0:43:14Just one of those unique locations. It's difficult. We've no gas.
0:43:14 > 0:43:17We've no electric. We've no telephones.
0:43:17 > 0:43:19We only got water in the '70s.
0:43:19 > 0:43:22So, we're on generators and gas
0:43:22 > 0:43:25and it's all got to be hauled over there and it makes it
0:43:25 > 0:43:27rather difficult sometimes.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29It might be tough, but armed with that hog,
0:43:29 > 0:43:33his loyal subjects will be impressed at the evening's festivities.
0:43:37 > 0:43:39Goodness. Should have got a little one.
0:43:41 > 0:43:44Note to self, try and get smaller pig.
0:43:44 > 0:43:47The techniques for roasting a whole hog haven't really changed that much
0:43:47 > 0:43:49since Lambert Simnel's time.
0:43:49 > 0:43:52Looks a bit mediaeval, I know.
0:43:52 > 0:43:54If you don't fasten it on tightly,
0:43:54 > 0:43:57what will happen is the hog will just spin on the spit
0:43:57 > 0:44:00so one side of it just won't be cooked.
0:44:01 > 0:44:03The beauty of cooking it on the hog roast is
0:44:03 > 0:44:05the slow rotisserie movement.
0:44:05 > 0:44:07All the juices are going back into it
0:44:07 > 0:44:10so it's self-basting which is what makes it so succulent.
0:44:10 > 0:44:12It really is nice.
0:44:12 > 0:44:15Just need to score it now and salt it.
0:44:15 > 0:44:18Scoring the fat and rubbing in salt is important
0:44:18 > 0:44:22to draw out the moisture as it cooks, to get the crackling spot on.
0:44:22 > 0:44:25You don't have to make a pig's ear of it(!)
0:44:26 > 0:44:30If I don't get the crackling right, they will sulk. I shall be lynched.
0:44:30 > 0:44:33Well, you can't lynch the king, he's in charge.
0:44:33 > 0:44:35You'll do.
0:44:35 > 0:44:36Enough pig.
0:44:37 > 0:44:41Ah! It's proper medieval-style cooking, this.
0:44:41 > 0:44:44Except with a gas roaster and an electric-powered spit.
0:44:46 > 0:44:48But you can't beat a huge chunk of meat.
0:44:51 > 0:44:52As the roast gets going,
0:44:52 > 0:44:56King Steve's royal subjects start to arrive.
0:44:56 > 0:44:59And for one of them, it's going to be a very special occasion.
0:44:59 > 0:45:03Don Galloway is being knighted for his services to the pumps
0:45:03 > 0:45:05and generally being helpful around the place.
0:45:05 > 0:45:07He's doesn't get any real powers,
0:45:07 > 0:45:11just the kudos of being a Knight of Piel.
0:45:11 > 0:45:15It is now my proud and honourable duty to welcome you
0:45:15 > 0:45:20to the Brotherhood of the Knights of Piel island, Sir Don Galloway.
0:45:20 > 0:45:24And he's anointed with that holiest of holy oils - beer.
0:45:32 > 0:45:34With his trusty retainer knighted,
0:45:34 > 0:45:37King Steve gets back to sorting the roast.
0:45:37 > 0:45:40Moment of truth. Stand by for perfection.
0:45:42 > 0:45:44That smells absolutely gorgeous.
0:45:44 > 0:45:46I know it's cooked right the way through.
0:45:46 > 0:45:48I can feel the heat in the spikes as well.
0:45:48 > 0:45:51It's just the texture, the smell, the feel of it. It's good.
0:45:55 > 0:45:57This is not about finesse.
0:45:57 > 0:46:01This is about feeding people a decent, locally-produced product.
0:46:03 > 0:46:05Delicious.
0:46:05 > 0:46:07Delicious.
0:46:07 > 0:46:08It is really beautiful.
0:46:08 > 0:46:11It's very, very tender, very juicy. Superb.
0:46:11 > 0:46:14If I don't say so myself, I think this is the best hog roast
0:46:14 > 0:46:16I've ever done on Piel Island.
0:46:16 > 0:46:18This has turned out perfection.
0:46:19 > 0:46:21I've got proper food envy, mate.
0:46:21 > 0:46:25With a feast like that, King Steve thoroughly deserves his crown.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37At first glance, the Scottish archipelago of islands
0:46:37 > 0:46:40that make up Orkney might not look like they'd produce
0:46:40 > 0:46:42- much in the way of food. - But you'd be wrong!
0:46:42 > 0:46:44It actually punches way above it's weight
0:46:44 > 0:46:48when it comes to delicious produce and food exports.
0:46:48 > 0:46:51The soil might not be rich, but over the years,
0:46:51 > 0:46:54the enterprising Orcadians cultivated their own,
0:46:54 > 0:46:57highly-successful farming and fishing industries.
0:46:59 > 0:47:02If efficiency is making the most of what the Lord gave you,
0:47:02 > 0:47:07Orkney should rank high in the list of the Lord's servants.
0:47:07 > 0:47:10And we should give thanks because Orkney has provided the world
0:47:10 > 0:47:13with some top-notch grub over the years.
0:47:13 > 0:47:16The waters of the Gulf Stream create a mild climate.
0:47:16 > 0:47:19The summer days are almost endless and for the Orcadian,
0:47:19 > 0:47:21a crofter with a boat,
0:47:21 > 0:47:24the sea and the land provide a substantial harvest.
0:47:28 > 0:47:32For centuries, these fishermen with ploughs have been making the most
0:47:32 > 0:47:34of the perfect conditions to catch
0:47:34 > 0:47:37some of the world's finest lobster and crab.
0:47:37 > 0:47:41But in the post-war years, they went after the international market.
0:47:41 > 0:47:44'Seven or eight years ago, these Orcadian lobsters were eaten
0:47:44 > 0:47:46'largely by Orcadians.
0:47:46 > 0:47:49'You want a lobster, you go down to the port
0:47:49 > 0:47:52'and buy one off a lobster boat for 9p a pound.
0:47:52 > 0:47:55'By the time these very lobsters have been flown
0:47:55 > 0:47:58'from the Isles of Orkney to the miserable and backward
0:47:58 > 0:48:03'capital cities of half of Europe, the simple clientele will end up
0:48:03 > 0:48:08'paying 25 shillings for just one half of one small lobster.'
0:48:10 > 0:48:14Today, nine out of every ten lobsters caught end up on plates
0:48:14 > 0:48:17around Europe and the island is home to the biggest hatchery
0:48:17 > 0:48:18on the continent.
0:48:20 > 0:48:23But it wasn't just the seafood industry the Orkney islanders
0:48:23 > 0:48:25were capitalising on.
0:48:25 > 0:48:30By the '60s, the cattle business was a nice little earner too.
0:48:30 > 0:48:33But as a community that must literally export to survive,
0:48:33 > 0:48:36Orkney concentrates mainly on cattle.
0:48:36 > 0:48:39Nearly 20,000 beef cattle a year sail out to the mainland
0:48:39 > 0:48:41through ports like Kirkwall.
0:48:47 > 0:48:51Orkney now has the highest density of cattle in Europe
0:48:51 > 0:48:54and are known for their outstanding beef.
0:48:54 > 0:48:58And the island owes much of this success to the post-war years
0:48:58 > 0:49:02when the farmers embraced modern farming methods with open arms.
0:49:02 > 0:49:04'The soil isn't much more than reasonable,
0:49:04 > 0:49:08'but farmers up here read this as an incentive to mechanise
0:49:08 > 0:49:12'rather than an excuse to under produce.
0:49:12 > 0:49:15'Orkney's farms are the most mechanised in the country,
0:49:15 > 0:49:20'churning out, among all the rest, 2.5 million gallons of milk a year.'
0:49:20 > 0:49:22And they certainly made the most of it,
0:49:22 > 0:49:25creating a high-tech dairy industry that would go on to become
0:49:25 > 0:49:27the biggest north of Stirling.
0:49:27 > 0:49:30Whilst the islands might be a success story of the mechanised age...
0:49:30 > 0:49:34Its food production was all rooted in traditional Orkney fare
0:49:34 > 0:49:38and the geography that made it taste so special.
0:49:38 > 0:49:41And its small-scale kitchen food industry continued to thrive
0:49:41 > 0:49:42alongside the big boys.
0:49:44 > 0:49:47Producing delicacies so good that back in the '80s,
0:49:47 > 0:49:51gastronaut Keith Floyd couldn't wait to try them.
0:49:51 > 0:49:54- Can we taste one of these?- Yes.
0:49:54 > 0:49:57This sounds obvious to say, it's very difficult to say things like this.
0:49:57 > 0:49:59This is very cheesy, it's very creamy,
0:49:59 > 0:50:02but it also smells and tastes of the sea which is not surprising.
0:50:02 > 0:50:04I mean, the sea's only yards away
0:50:04 > 0:50:06and the wind blows over the pastures here.
0:50:07 > 0:50:12The Orcadians could never be accused of sitting on their laurels.
0:50:12 > 0:50:14Their foresight and hard work means that today,
0:50:14 > 0:50:18it has the highest GDP of all of the Scottish counties.
0:50:18 > 0:50:22Not bad for a place a quarter of the size of the Isle of Wight.
0:50:23 > 0:50:25And as well as their line in dairy and lobsters,
0:50:25 > 0:50:29they also supply brown, or edible, crabs,
0:50:29 > 0:50:31like the one we prepared earlier.
0:50:31 > 0:50:33These crabs are a jewel of our islands
0:50:33 > 0:50:36and we couldn't resist showing you another recipe with them.
0:50:36 > 0:50:39And because they are so packed full of flavour,
0:50:39 > 0:50:42the British crab is perfect for enhancing recipes
0:50:42 > 0:50:44from other parts of the world.
0:50:44 > 0:50:48So, we're making Thai-style crab cakes with our very own
0:50:48 > 0:50:49chilli jam to dip them in.
0:50:49 > 0:50:52So, mate, I'm going to get on with the chilli jam.
0:50:52 > 0:50:55- I'll get on with the crab cakes.- OK.
0:50:55 > 0:50:57We need two chillies,
0:50:57 > 0:51:03about 15 grams of root ginger...
0:51:03 > 0:51:08and two cloves of garlic.
0:51:08 > 0:51:11So, I'm going to prep those and there's a reason for that
0:51:11 > 0:51:13- and I'll show you about that in a minute.- Right.
0:51:13 > 0:51:17To make the crab cakes, take a large quantity of good
0:51:17 > 0:51:21British crabmeat, brown meat as well as the white meat.
0:51:21 > 0:51:25Look at that. Big clumps of claw meat. Put them in a food processor.
0:51:27 > 0:51:32Now, for flavour as well as bulk, just put in some king prawns. Raw.
0:51:34 > 0:51:39Here, I've got some Thai-green curry paste. About a tablespoon.
0:51:39 > 0:51:41This gives it a lot of life.
0:51:42 > 0:51:45And a tablespoon of cornflour.
0:51:49 > 0:51:52Now, we process that to make a prawny-crabby paste.
0:51:55 > 0:51:59The fine texture of these crab cakes is all part of the style
0:51:59 > 0:52:02but don't allow the mixture to become too thin
0:52:02 > 0:52:04or it'll turn to mush.
0:52:04 > 0:52:07And no amount of chilli will be able to repair that.
0:52:10 > 0:52:12Home-made chilli jam's lovely, isn't it?
0:52:12 > 0:52:17- A lot of the bought ones tend to be, I think, quite chemically.- Yes.
0:52:17 > 0:52:21Look at that. You could just put that on toast now, couldn't you?
0:52:23 > 0:52:25This is jam sugar.
0:52:25 > 0:52:29Now, jam sugar is a mixture of sugar and pectin
0:52:29 > 0:52:34which is a thickening agent that naturally occurs in fruits.
0:52:34 > 0:52:40- OK.- So, what we're going to do, we're going to take some water.
0:52:41 > 0:52:45To your 100ml of water, add red wine vinegar
0:52:45 > 0:52:48three tablespoons thereof.
0:52:48 > 0:52:53And to help it set, 225 grams of jam sugar.
0:52:53 > 0:52:57Heat it all up and make a syrup.
0:52:57 > 0:53:01- It's important to get the consistency of this right, isn't it?- Yes.
0:53:01 > 0:53:05- Although it's a jam, you want to be able to dip your cakes in it.- You do.
0:53:05 > 0:53:07So, it's quite critical not to overcook it.
0:53:07 > 0:53:10- Yep, you want to dip it, not have to spread it.- Exactly.
0:53:10 > 0:53:13It's the crab cake, not toast.
0:53:13 > 0:53:17To the crab mixture, I'm adding a bunch of finely-chopped coriander leaves
0:53:17 > 0:53:21and half-a-dozen finely-sliced spring onions.
0:53:22 > 0:53:25Give this a good stir.
0:53:25 > 0:53:29Because of the cornflour and the processed prawns,
0:53:29 > 0:53:32it has quite a gelatinous texture
0:53:32 > 0:53:35that you can form with wet hands into your crab cakes.
0:53:35 > 0:53:39At first, it appears it's like trying to juggle snot.
0:53:39 > 0:53:42But with practice, it's quite possible.
0:53:42 > 0:53:45Now, I'm going to start to add my garlic.
0:53:48 > 0:53:50With a grater that's slightly coarser,
0:53:50 > 0:53:52I'm just going to add some root ginger.
0:53:52 > 0:53:55And then our chilli.
0:53:55 > 0:53:58You see, I've got very little chilli in the crab cakes.
0:53:58 > 0:54:01I've just got a little bit in the green curry paste.
0:54:01 > 0:54:04We're going to save that kick for the chilli jam.
0:54:04 > 0:54:08People can pick how hot they want their feast to be.
0:54:08 > 0:54:10- Shall I get cracking?- Yeah, mate. Absolutely.
0:54:10 > 0:54:15I've seasoned the crab mix, the spring onions and the coriander.
0:54:16 > 0:54:18I'll put some cornflour on a plate.
0:54:19 > 0:54:22That's so they don't stick.
0:54:23 > 0:54:24And I will start to form them.
0:54:26 > 0:54:29To stop them sticking to your fingers, really clean hands,
0:54:29 > 0:54:30wet your hands,
0:54:30 > 0:54:33take a ball of mixture. There's enough here for about 12.
0:54:35 > 0:54:38And with wet hands, just form it.
0:54:38 > 0:54:43About golf-ball size into a patty. Like so.
0:54:43 > 0:54:45I like them to be tidy.
0:54:45 > 0:54:47I don't like rustic.
0:54:47 > 0:54:51- You're not keen on rustic, are you, mate?- Not with crab cakes.
0:54:51 > 0:54:57Make about 12 of these and put them onto your little bed of cornflour.
0:54:58 > 0:55:01A small dredge of cornflour is enough to stop the crabby bundles
0:55:01 > 0:55:06from sticking to the plate whilst you make the rest.
0:55:08 > 0:55:13We now need to put that into a heatproof bowl and let it cool.
0:55:15 > 0:55:20- And the red wine vinegar gives it a wonderful red colour.- Fab.
0:55:23 > 0:55:26For the first time ever in my personal history of cooking
0:55:26 > 0:55:32on telly, when I said, "This makes a dozen", it has.
0:55:32 > 0:55:33Without cheating!
0:55:35 > 0:55:37Get ready to fry the crab cakes by
0:55:37 > 0:55:40heating six tablespoons of sunflower oil in a pan,
0:55:40 > 0:55:42waiting till it's really hot,
0:55:42 > 0:55:44before carefully placing the cakes in.
0:55:46 > 0:55:48Oh, yes.
0:55:51 > 0:55:54Wait till they've firmed up before you turn them
0:55:54 > 0:55:57or you're just going to end up with a pan of Bombay mix,
0:55:57 > 0:55:59- if you're not careful. - Have you noticed what Dave's doing?
0:55:59 > 0:56:02He's doing the clockwork thing, you see.
0:56:02 > 0:56:05So you know...
0:56:05 > 0:56:07which one you put in first.
0:56:09 > 0:56:12It's easy to be put off from cooking with crab,
0:56:12 > 0:56:14particularly if you cook them from live,
0:56:14 > 0:56:18but a ready-prepared one in the shell from the supermarket is fine.
0:56:18 > 0:56:21And whilst fresh crabmeat is preferable, the stuff you get
0:56:21 > 0:56:24from a tin will do the trick as well.
0:56:24 > 0:56:29Beautiful. Look. Just coloured up. Crisp.
0:56:30 > 0:56:32And they flip quite easily.
0:56:35 > 0:56:38Keep going round the clock.
0:56:38 > 0:56:42And you see they're all super dupe.
0:56:44 > 0:56:47Now, as the chilli jam cools, it'll begin to firm up.
0:56:50 > 0:56:55That's the sort of wobble and consistency that you want.
0:56:55 > 0:56:59If you cook it too much, it'll set Only cook it for the three minutes.
0:56:59 > 0:57:04Then put that into our serving dish.
0:57:04 > 0:57:08And if you're like me and you've made rather a lot,
0:57:08 > 0:57:10just stick the rest in the fridge
0:57:10 > 0:57:14and you can keep dipping for a couple of weeks.
0:57:14 > 0:57:19These little beauties are so versatile - perfect for lunch,
0:57:19 > 0:57:24as a light snack or as a little amuse bouche if you're entertaining.
0:57:24 > 0:57:26And to garnish...
0:57:26 > 0:57:29you've got it - a simple wedge of lime.
0:57:29 > 0:57:32And there we are, our Thai-style British crab cakes,
0:57:32 > 0:57:35a perfect representation of East meets West.
0:57:35 > 0:57:38- Oh, mate.- Lovely, isn't it?
0:57:38 > 0:57:42- Coriander. Got a bounce to them.- Yes.
0:57:45 > 0:57:47- There's nothing better, is there?- No.
0:57:51 > 0:57:54You know what, Si, I think these crab cakes are
0:57:54 > 0:57:58a very worthwhile celebration of the great British crab
0:57:58 > 0:58:02which indeed is a treasure of our British island.
0:58:02 > 0:58:04Hear, hear to that.
0:58:07 > 0:58:10From the northernmost archipelago of Shetland...
0:58:10 > 0:58:14..to the sunnier climes of the Isles of Scilly, it's our islands' traditions and culture...
0:58:14 > 0:58:18..combined with their sea-bound geography and climate,
0:58:18 > 0:58:22that make them such a rich source of culinary diversity and excellence.
0:58:22 > 0:58:23And to find out how to cook
0:58:23 > 0:58:26the recipes in today's show, visit...
0:58:52 > 0:58:56Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd