Mainland France

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0:00:02 > 0:00:03SI: Oh, mate, I'm loving this road trip.

0:00:03 > 0:00:05Wee-hee!

0:00:05 > 0:00:06New places...

0:00:06 > 0:00:08Now, that's a view, Dave.

0:00:08 > 0:00:11..new people... Look at your muscles!

0:00:11 > 0:00:12..and new food.

0:00:12 > 0:00:14Oh, that's good.

0:00:14 > 0:00:17We're doing almost 3,000 miles around the Mediterranean

0:00:17 > 0:00:22in search of the authentic flavours of Italy and Sardinia,

0:00:22 > 0:00:24Corsica and France,

0:00:24 > 0:00:27the Balearics and Spain.

0:00:27 > 0:00:31And we'll end up in Andalusia at one of the biggest parties

0:00:31 > 0:00:34in the Med - the Festival of San Juan.

0:00:34 > 0:00:38But it's not all beach barbecues and sunburn, Kingy.

0:00:38 > 0:00:39They're all looking at us now.

0:00:39 > 0:00:43No, mate. We're tracking down the real Mediterranean...

0:00:43 > 0:00:45You'll never get a tune out of that.

0:00:45 > 0:00:47..out-of-the-way places,

0:00:47 > 0:00:50and all the culinary loveliness on offer.

0:00:51 > 0:00:53Oh, wow. It's so simple.

0:00:53 > 0:00:55It's fantastic.

0:00:55 > 0:00:58We get to eat the tiger cow. Woo!

0:00:58 > 0:01:00And of course, we'll cook with the locals.

0:01:00 > 0:01:02- ALL:- Salute!

0:01:02 > 0:01:05And hear their stories.

0:01:05 > 0:01:08We've island-hopped our way from Italy to France...

0:01:08 > 0:01:09Fantastic, Chef!

0:01:09 > 0:01:11..Corsica first... Get in!

0:01:11 > 0:01:12..and now the mainland.

0:01:12 > 0:01:14Give us a kiss!

0:01:14 > 0:01:16Vive la France! Ooh!

0:01:16 > 0:01:20This is our take on a magical part of the world

0:01:20 > 0:01:21right on our doorstep.

0:01:21 > 0:01:23Hold on to your helmets...

0:01:23 > 0:01:25DAVE LAUGHS

0:01:25 > 0:01:26You...

0:01:26 > 0:01:28..it's going to be epic.

0:01:34 > 0:01:35We're in mainland France

0:01:35 > 0:01:38and sunny Provence...

0:01:38 > 0:01:40On the south coast, heading west.

0:01:43 > 0:01:46Dave, I can't believe that we're here, mate, in Marseille.

0:01:46 > 0:01:48How fantastic.

0:01:48 > 0:01:51Not only is Marseille known for pastis, petanque

0:01:51 > 0:01:55and the famous fish stew, bouillabaisse...

0:01:55 > 0:01:56But it's also a huge port

0:01:56 > 0:02:00and has been the main Mediterranean gateway to Central Europe

0:02:00 > 0:02:02since 600 BC -

0:02:02 > 0:02:05first for the Greeks and then the Romans.

0:02:06 > 0:02:08And now for us.

0:02:10 > 0:02:12Well, we're definitely in the centre of Marseille, mate.

0:02:12 > 0:02:14Oh, yes.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17Marseille is one of the biggest cities in Provence,

0:02:17 > 0:02:21known for its laidback attitude and perfect weather.

0:02:21 > 0:02:25It's popular with tourists, especially foodies like us,

0:02:25 > 0:02:27because of the incredible markets.

0:02:29 > 0:02:32THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:02:35 > 0:02:38So much beautiful produce in one place,

0:02:38 > 0:02:40we're in fruity heaven.

0:02:40 > 0:02:43Oh, the strawberries. Ohh!

0:02:43 > 0:02:45Dude, look at these cherries!

0:02:45 > 0:02:48- It just makes you grin, doesn't it? - Yeah.

0:02:48 > 0:02:52This is the perfect place to stock up for the trip.

0:02:52 > 0:02:54Un kilo citron, s'il vous plait.

0:02:54 > 0:02:56The market couldn't be more typically Provencal

0:02:56 > 0:02:59full of colour, almost like a painting.

0:02:59 > 0:03:02Oh, tomatoes. They look good. Oh, look at the little ones.

0:03:02 > 0:03:05- That's Provence, innit? - Definitely.

0:03:05 > 0:03:09But what's really brilliant is the huge range of produce.

0:03:09 > 0:03:11- It's everything, isn't it? - Yeah.

0:03:11 > 0:03:12Fantastic.

0:03:13 > 0:03:15But what I love is,

0:03:15 > 0:03:17on one stall we've got olives from Provence,

0:03:17 > 0:03:19we've got harissa from North Africa,

0:03:19 > 0:03:21and all those influences around.

0:03:21 > 0:03:25It's that melting pot of food and culture. I love it.

0:03:25 > 0:03:28We've already done Italy, but I can't wait to dive into

0:03:28 > 0:03:32the food and culture of the French Mediterranean.

0:03:32 > 0:03:35And guess what? We'll be cooking and mingling with the natives,

0:03:35 > 0:03:37we're going to be cooking and eating some amazing food.

0:03:37 > 0:03:39And we're off to the Camargue,

0:03:39 > 0:03:42with its bulls, its horses and its cowboys. Yee-ha!

0:03:42 > 0:03:45And we're also going to be finding out

0:03:45 > 0:03:48how our Roman ancestors used to feast.

0:03:48 > 0:03:49Well, you've got to eat properly

0:03:49 > 0:03:53if you're going to conquer the world.

0:03:53 > 0:03:57We can't come to the Mediterranean without some sun, sea, sand and...

0:03:57 > 0:03:58Hey, cut that out, you!

0:03:58 > 0:04:00Ooh, sorry. I'm overexcited.

0:04:00 > 0:04:04Me too. This trip promises to be a mashup of cultures -

0:04:04 > 0:04:07the French, the Italians...the Spanish.

0:04:07 > 0:04:09I'll tell you what it is, though.

0:04:09 > 0:04:11It's Mediterranean!

0:04:11 > 0:04:12Ole!

0:04:12 > 0:04:16- HAIRY BIKERS CHEER - # Dedededede! #

0:04:16 > 0:04:18To understand this part of the Mediterranean,

0:04:18 > 0:04:22we'll tread in the footsteps of the Romans,

0:04:22 > 0:04:26following the highway they built to link together their vast empire.

0:04:27 > 0:04:28From Marseille in Provence,

0:04:28 > 0:04:31we'll ride into the national park of the Camargue...

0:04:31 > 0:04:34Then it's up to the Roman city of Nimes

0:04:34 > 0:04:36before heading southwest...

0:04:36 > 0:04:38To finish in Catalan country,

0:04:38 > 0:04:41not far off the Spanish border.

0:04:41 > 0:04:44But first, let's get our teeth into Marseille,

0:04:44 > 0:04:46France's second city.

0:04:46 > 0:04:50Home to around a million people, with a thriving multicultural scene,

0:04:50 > 0:04:54which means a 24-hour, all-you-can-eat buffet.

0:04:56 > 0:04:58And eat we shall, Dave.

0:04:58 > 0:05:01We've been told by the market traders that if you want

0:05:01 > 0:05:04to get a taste of the city's fusion of flavours,

0:05:04 > 0:05:07we should meet a lady called Fatima.

0:05:07 > 0:05:09THEY GREET IN FRENCH

0:05:13 > 0:05:17Fatima is a living example of how the Mediterranean works.

0:05:17 > 0:05:20She arrived here from Morocco 30 years ago,

0:05:20 > 0:05:23and embraced the Provencal way of life,

0:05:23 > 0:05:25especially the cuisine.

0:05:27 > 0:05:30- The cuisine Provencal. - Parfait.

0:05:30 > 0:05:31THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:05:34 > 0:05:35La bourride?

0:05:35 > 0:05:37La bourride is a fish stew,

0:05:37 > 0:05:41often called the bouillabaisse's little brother.

0:05:49 > 0:05:52So, it is a traditional Provencal recipe,

0:05:52 > 0:05:56but this has got North African, Moroccan influence in it.

0:05:56 > 0:05:59First, Fatima builds some vegetable stock,

0:05:59 > 0:06:01the perfect base for the stew.

0:06:01 > 0:06:02- C'est bon?- Oui.

0:06:03 > 0:06:06As someone who found the right recipe for settling here,

0:06:06 > 0:06:10Fatima has dedicated her life to helping others do the same.

0:06:12 > 0:06:13She runs a drop-in centre,

0:06:13 > 0:06:16where new arrivals can get advice and mentoring.

0:06:17 > 0:06:19And a cracking dinner, too.

0:06:36 > 0:06:38Oui.

0:06:38 > 0:06:40The Legion D'Honneur is France's highest honour,

0:06:40 > 0:06:44and Fatima received it for services to her community.

0:06:44 > 0:06:46It's an honour for us, too, to be here.

0:06:48 > 0:06:50To make the bourride fish stew,

0:06:50 > 0:06:53Fatima has marinated her fish in chermoula,

0:06:53 > 0:06:57which is a North African marinade made from parsley, coriander, onion,

0:06:57 > 0:07:00chilli powder and turmeric.

0:07:02 > 0:07:09- Oh, wow!- C'est tres fresh. That's a lot of garlic.- It is.

0:07:09 > 0:07:12To serve with the bourride, we'll make aioli...

0:07:12 > 0:07:17A pungent garlic mayonnaise eggs, oil and tonnes of garlic.

0:07:21 > 0:07:22THEY SPEAK IN FRENCH

0:07:26 > 0:07:30The potatoes go into that wonderful vegetable stock.

0:07:30 > 0:07:34- SHE SPEAKS IN FRENCH - Now just a little bit of saffron. - Lovely.

0:07:34 > 0:07:38It's good cooking, Si. If you think, the stock has been made properly,

0:07:38 > 0:07:41then you've got the potatoes cooking in the stock and the saffron,

0:07:41 > 0:07:44and then the fish, we marinated in the chermoula.

0:07:44 > 0:07:48It's cooking in the vapour of those wonderful potatoes.

0:07:48 > 0:07:51If you want it a bit less spicy,

0:07:51 > 0:07:53just use fennel instead of the chermoula,

0:07:53 > 0:07:56and, by the way, you can use any white fish for this.

0:07:56 > 0:07:58This is our first taste of Provence.

0:07:58 > 0:07:59Oui.

0:08:02 > 0:08:05The fish has so much flavour from the chermoula,

0:08:05 > 0:08:07the potatoes cooked in the saffron and the broth...

0:08:09 > 0:08:10..it's lovely, careful cooking,

0:08:10 > 0:08:13but it's so full of flavour, man.

0:08:13 > 0:08:16The aioli, Dave, just sits perfectly well.

0:08:16 > 0:08:19It's mega garlicky, like all good aiolis should be,

0:08:19 > 0:08:24and if this is what this part of France has on offer...

0:08:24 > 0:08:28- It's exciting. - It flipping is, man. It really is.

0:08:28 > 0:08:30Well, Fatima, we can't give you another Legion D'Honneur,

0:08:30 > 0:08:34but we can give you all our thanks from the bottom of our hearts.

0:08:34 > 0:08:37- Thank you so much, Fatima.- Thank you.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39- SHE REPLIES IN FRENCH - Hey!

0:08:40 > 0:08:42- Ooh!- Merci, Fatima.

0:08:42 > 0:08:45Oh la la!

0:08:46 > 0:08:50David! You can't go around trying to snog all the women. It's wrong!

0:08:50 > 0:08:53Oh, I was carried away! That food was sublime.

0:08:54 > 0:08:57Well, let's walk it off, mate.

0:08:57 > 0:08:59- It's going to be great. - It is if we get the ferry.

0:08:59 > 0:09:01- What time is the ferry?- Half-past.

0:09:01 > 0:09:02Oh, flipping Nora.

0:09:02 > 0:09:04We are leaving the bikes and crossing the water to a place

0:09:04 > 0:09:08I've always wanted to visit, the village of L'Estaque.

0:09:08 > 0:09:10That's a nice yacht.

0:09:12 > 0:09:16I love art and it has been my mission since uni

0:09:16 > 0:09:19to check out the places that my favourite artists painted.

0:09:22 > 0:09:25And L'Estaque was a prime location for the Impressionists

0:09:25 > 0:09:26in the 19th century.

0:09:29 > 0:09:32L'Estaque, it's a half an hour ferry ride

0:09:32 > 0:09:35and it's still like a district of Marseille.

0:09:35 > 0:09:37But it is where the Impressionists used to go.

0:09:37 > 0:09:41People like Cezanne and Renoir and they went there for the light.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46So, we're going to pay homage to your art heroes, Dave.

0:09:46 > 0:09:49But can you believe that for some lucky beggars,

0:09:49 > 0:09:51this is a daily commute.

0:09:55 > 0:09:58- Merci, Monsieur.- Merci. Au revoir, Monsieur.

0:09:58 > 0:10:00- Here we are, Si.- I can't believe it, it's great.

0:10:00 > 0:10:03L'Estaque, where the light is turned up to 11.

0:10:03 > 0:10:06- It certainly is. It is different actually.- Everything seems vivid.

0:10:06 > 0:10:07It does, yeah.

0:10:10 > 0:10:14It was the quality of the light, the friendly people

0:10:14 > 0:10:17and these views that seduced the Impressionists.

0:10:19 > 0:10:20This is wonderful.

0:10:20 > 0:10:23A sort of Provencal time capsule.

0:10:23 > 0:10:25But I fear that your painters are no more

0:10:25 > 0:10:29and have relinquished their place to a different kind of artist -

0:10:29 > 0:10:30a street artist.

0:10:30 > 0:10:33And one that I can relate to a bit more, mate.

0:10:35 > 0:10:37- Bonjour.- Hello.

0:10:37 > 0:10:40First on the tasting menu are panisse,

0:10:40 > 0:10:45little bundles of joy, simply made of chickpea flour and water.

0:10:46 > 0:10:49They're savoury, they're tasty and what's more, with chickpea flour,

0:10:49 > 0:10:50they are gluten-free.

0:10:52 > 0:10:55- Oh, they really are delicious. - Wouldn't it be brilliant with beer?

0:10:55 > 0:10:58- Good for you?- Hmm.- Fantastic.

0:10:58 > 0:11:00- Fantastique.- Simple.

0:11:00 > 0:11:02Which country does panisse come from?

0:11:05 > 0:11:07It comes from Italy.

0:11:18 > 0:11:20In 1930.

0:11:20 > 0:11:23So an Italian staple has become a French classic.

0:11:23 > 0:11:26- Mediterranean again, dude. The superhighway.- Hmm.

0:11:26 > 0:11:29Second on the menu is chichis fregis,

0:11:29 > 0:11:34made of wheat and chickpea flour, yeast, water and lemon zest.

0:11:35 > 0:11:39- It's like a doughnut.- Yeah.- But it's long and sausage-like.

0:11:41 > 0:11:43- Oh, fantastic.- Delicious?

0:11:43 > 0:11:45- It's delicious.- Delicious. - Fantastic.

0:11:45 > 0:11:51Si, the literal translation of chichi fregi is fried willy.

0:11:51 > 0:11:53You what?

0:11:53 > 0:11:56- Chichi means willy in the local slang.- Oh.

0:11:56 > 0:11:57Time to get hands-on.

0:11:57 > 0:11:59Right he's got, like, a chichi gun.

0:11:59 > 0:12:01La fusil de chichi.

0:12:02 > 0:12:05Let's get the end up.

0:12:05 > 0:12:07Wow, you just go for it.

0:12:07 > 0:12:09A circle in the fat.

0:12:11 > 0:12:12Super chichi.

0:12:14 > 0:12:15That's huge.

0:12:15 > 0:12:17- Do you want to try?- Oui.

0:12:18 > 0:12:20Are you having a go, dude?

0:12:20 > 0:12:24I suspect it's not going to be as easy as Michel makes it look.

0:12:24 > 0:12:26- Is it one of those?- Yes.- Yeah.

0:12:26 > 0:12:29- Very smooth.- Smoothly.

0:12:29 > 0:12:30Yes. Do small.

0:12:33 > 0:12:35I think I've just got fired.

0:12:36 > 0:12:37- Oh, no.- OK.

0:12:39 > 0:12:41- OK.- I lost my rhythm.

0:12:41 > 0:12:43Oh, did you? It's not like you.

0:12:43 > 0:12:46- It's all right, I think I'm rescuing it.- Are you?

0:12:46 > 0:12:48Do you think they're going to be able to sell it?

0:12:48 > 0:12:51- No, but I think you might be able to eat it.- Oh, excellent.

0:12:51 > 0:12:53It's kind of rustic but edible.

0:12:53 > 0:12:55That's debatable.

0:12:55 > 0:12:58It seems it takes a few years to master the art of the chichi.

0:12:59 > 0:13:02For the first time, it's not so bad. It's good.

0:13:02 > 0:13:05Michel, I take that as a great complement. Merci beaucoup.

0:13:05 > 0:13:06Give us a look, then.

0:13:06 > 0:13:09- This chichi is not for the customer, it's for you.- OK.

0:13:09 > 0:13:13OK, merci. Je comprendre, Michel!

0:13:15 > 0:13:17- Au revoir!- Au revoir, monsieur!

0:13:17 > 0:13:19Au revoir!

0:13:37 > 0:13:42Today, it's au revoir, Marseille, and bonjour to the open road.

0:13:42 > 0:13:46Let's go West in the footsteps of the Roman legions.

0:13:46 > 0:13:49This place is littered with ancient sites.

0:13:49 > 0:13:53The old city of Nimes is the biggie but I've got a tiny detour in mind, mate,

0:13:53 > 0:13:55if it's all right with you?

0:13:55 > 0:13:59The spectacular Camargue national park.

0:13:59 > 0:14:02Great choice but we are still on the trail of the Romans.

0:14:02 > 0:14:07Julius Caesar was a great admirer of their stunning white horses.

0:14:07 > 0:14:09Nowadays, there are paddy fields everywhere,

0:14:09 > 0:14:12as rice production is a big thing.

0:14:13 > 0:14:16But it's the wild black bulls I want to see,

0:14:16 > 0:14:18and the cowboys, or guardians, who look after them.

0:14:18 > 0:14:21This is definitely special access.

0:14:21 > 0:14:26So, we're stood here because the guys that are rounding the bulls

0:14:26 > 0:14:29have told us to stand very still and very quietly

0:14:29 > 0:14:31because the thing about bulls...

0:14:32 > 0:14:34..they're wild, first of all,

0:14:34 > 0:14:36and they're really quite unpredictable,

0:14:36 > 0:14:40so we're stood here doing exactly as we're told.

0:14:41 > 0:14:44It's like a strange mythical world, the Camargue, isn't it?

0:14:44 > 0:14:48It is. I didn't realise that it was quite like this.

0:14:48 > 0:14:49It's remarkable.

0:14:49 > 0:14:51There's quite a lot of Spanish influence here.

0:14:51 > 0:14:55It's the black bull of the Camargue that we're here for -

0:14:55 > 0:14:56the taureau -

0:14:56 > 0:14:59but they've got this kind of history here about the bull going back to Roman times.

0:15:01 > 0:15:04Today, these bulls are raised for a specific kind of bullfighting,

0:15:04 > 0:15:06in which the animal isn't killed

0:15:06 > 0:15:09but returns season after season to compete.

0:15:11 > 0:15:13That race of bull wouldn't exist

0:15:13 > 0:15:15if it wasn't for the cowboys of the Camargue.

0:15:17 > 0:15:19- It's very special, isn't it?- Hmm.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21Oh, they're big, aren't they?

0:15:21 > 0:15:23They're getting bigger as they're getting closer!

0:15:25 > 0:15:27Look at the horns on that one!

0:15:27 > 0:15:30Yeah. They don't like being too close to us, do they?

0:15:30 > 0:15:32Time to withdraw, I think.

0:15:32 > 0:15:34Let's go to the homestead and find out

0:15:34 > 0:15:37a bit more about how this sort of farming works.

0:15:38 > 0:15:41The ranch has been in the Mailhan family for generations.

0:15:41 > 0:15:43They're big in the local community,

0:15:43 > 0:15:46and in the past have played host to President Georges Pompidou

0:15:46 > 0:15:49and even Jackie Kennedy.

0:15:49 > 0:15:52Well, we're in the right place, then.

0:15:52 > 0:15:55So more special access, by the sound of it.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58And just in time for lunch.

0:16:02 > 0:16:04It's like a hacienda, this place, innit?

0:16:04 > 0:16:06It is. A massive Spanish influence.

0:16:06 > 0:16:07It's so Spanish.

0:16:07 > 0:16:08It just feels like it, doesn't it?

0:16:08 > 0:16:11- Claire! Bonjour! - Bonjour, Claire!

0:16:11 > 0:16:13Hello! I'm in the kitchen.

0:16:13 > 0:16:14Oh, OK.

0:16:16 > 0:16:17- Hi, Claire.- Hi, guys.

0:16:17 > 0:16:19How are you?

0:16:19 > 0:16:22- Fine.- This smells good.- Doesn't it just?!

0:16:22 > 0:16:25The farm's other specialty is rice.

0:16:26 > 0:16:30So there is red rice, complete rice,

0:16:30 > 0:16:35black rice, long rice and round rice.

0:16:35 > 0:16:39That's what we call the red rice of the Camargue that we buy in England.

0:16:39 > 0:16:42It's kind of got a chew, a taste, a bite.

0:16:42 > 0:16:45It's sort of in between the brown rice and the white rice.

0:16:45 > 0:16:47- It's so nutty as well.- Yeah!

0:16:47 > 0:16:49It's so beautiful.

0:16:49 > 0:16:52Red rice is rich in fibre, vitamin B,

0:16:52 > 0:16:54iron and calcium,

0:16:54 > 0:16:57and when cooked is a bit softer than brown rice.

0:16:57 > 0:16:59In short, it's a superfood.

0:16:59 > 0:17:01What's in here, Claire?

0:17:01 > 0:17:05I've just started cooking some gardianne de taureau.

0:17:05 > 0:17:07It's onions and meat.

0:17:07 > 0:17:10And gardianne de taureau is the name of the dish?

0:17:10 > 0:17:11Yes.

0:17:11 > 0:17:13While the Camargue bulls aren't reared for meat,

0:17:13 > 0:17:15when one dies, nothing is wasted,

0:17:15 > 0:17:18and the meat finds its way into the pot.

0:17:18 > 0:17:20That's a lot of meat.

0:17:20 > 0:17:22Any particular cut of the taureau, Claire?

0:17:22 > 0:17:25- Oh, no.- No? Just all of it?

0:17:25 > 0:17:26Just all of it. Yeah.

0:17:26 > 0:17:29That's proper nose-to-tail eating.

0:17:29 > 0:17:31So, Claire, how long do we have to cook it for now?

0:17:31 > 0:17:33About eight hours.

0:17:33 > 0:17:36Well, that means we're not going to taste it.

0:17:36 > 0:17:38Not this one.

0:17:38 > 0:17:40And here is one that Claire made earlier!

0:17:40 > 0:17:42Oh-ho-ho-ho!

0:17:42 > 0:17:44Hey! Lovely!

0:17:44 > 0:17:45Right.

0:17:45 > 0:17:50Well, I must say, I've never eaten taureau before.

0:17:50 > 0:17:51No.

0:17:51 > 0:17:54It's a rich, beautifully-mature meat.

0:17:54 > 0:17:58I think it is not as strong as wild animals,

0:17:58 > 0:18:01- like wild rabbits or... - No, no, it's not.

0:18:01 > 0:18:02That's very true.

0:18:02 > 0:18:04- A bit stronger than beef.- Mm-hm.

0:18:04 > 0:18:05Hmm. Definitely.

0:18:05 > 0:18:07It really works. It's thick and unctuous.

0:18:07 > 0:18:08The olives are great in it.

0:18:08 > 0:18:10It's ace.

0:18:10 > 0:18:12It is. It's supercharged beef.

0:18:12 > 0:18:13You're welcome.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15- Shall we do a doubler?- Oh, yeah. I think so.

0:18:15 > 0:18:16Thanks, Claire.

0:18:16 > 0:18:19- Merci beaucoup.- Merci beaucoup.

0:18:19 > 0:18:21- Oh, taste of the Camargue, eh? - You're welcome.

0:18:24 > 0:18:30What a treat. Claire has inspired me to cook our own version of her stew.

0:18:30 > 0:18:33Aye, let's make a classic daube de boeuf.

0:18:39 > 0:18:42This is just like the most fantastic stew,

0:18:42 > 0:18:45with the brandy, the wine, the red wine vinegar,

0:18:45 > 0:18:49the cloves. It's got loads in, takes forever, it's brilliant.

0:18:49 > 0:18:53First, we build the marinade with onions, carrots and celery.

0:18:54 > 0:18:57One thing I've noticed, like, with French,

0:18:57 > 0:18:59when they're doing like a boeuf bourguignon

0:18:59 > 0:19:01on a blanquette de veau, the veal stew,

0:19:01 > 0:19:03the chunks are massive.

0:19:03 > 0:19:04Are you all right there?

0:19:04 > 0:19:07- Ooh, nice.- Whoa!

0:19:07 > 0:19:10And we put in first a bottle of red wine.

0:19:10 > 0:19:14Use the best, fullest, biggest red wine you can afford.

0:19:14 > 0:19:17100ml of brandy.

0:19:17 > 0:19:19All this booze is very indulgent,

0:19:19 > 0:19:22but worth it for a special occasion.

0:19:22 > 0:19:25And to tenderise and to sharpen things up a bit,

0:19:25 > 0:19:2850ml of red wine vinegar.

0:19:28 > 0:19:31Good red wine vinegar.

0:19:31 > 0:19:36For extra flavour, I'm making not one but two bouquet garnis,

0:19:36 > 0:19:42with bay leaves, thyme, cloves, a cinnamon stick,

0:19:42 > 0:19:46peppercorns, orange peel and fresh parsley.

0:19:48 > 0:19:50- If you pull one end...- Beautiful.

0:19:50 > 0:19:53Now, we repeat, I need one for later,

0:19:53 > 0:19:55but this one, my chum, can go in your pot.

0:19:56 > 0:19:58Oh, all those flavours in the marinade.

0:19:58 > 0:20:00- It's great, innit? - It's going to be good.

0:20:00 > 0:20:01Yeah. We've got the brandy, the wine...

0:20:01 > 0:20:04- You forgot the garlic!- I did.

0:20:04 > 0:20:05Slice the garlic...

0:20:07 > 0:20:08Garlic!

0:20:08 > 0:20:11- Eventually.- Yeah. I forgot.

0:20:11 > 0:20:16Dave's beautifully hand-knotted and tied bouquet garni.

0:20:16 > 0:20:19- That goes in. Now sink it. - Sink it!

0:20:23 > 0:20:26# Go to sleep, little beefy

0:20:26 > 0:20:28# Close your beefy eyes

0:20:28 > 0:20:31# Cos Si and Dave are waiting... #

0:20:31 > 0:20:34GRUFF VOICE: To eat you!

0:20:34 > 0:20:39Now, this goes into the fridge for 24 hours.

0:20:39 > 0:20:41- I'll put this in the fridge. - All right, dude.

0:20:41 > 0:20:42Thank you.

0:20:42 > 0:20:45For now, we're going to use one we prepped yesterday.

0:20:45 > 0:20:47We've got to strain all this

0:20:47 > 0:20:49and we're going to reserve the liquor,

0:20:49 > 0:20:51because we'll show you what to do with that later on.

0:20:51 > 0:20:53And believe me, that is liquor in there.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55There's brandy and all sorts.

0:20:56 > 0:21:00We're in business. First, I'm frying the meat in batches...

0:21:01 > 0:21:04While I chop the pancetta and another onion.

0:21:05 > 0:21:09Right, and we're going to keep building on those flavours.

0:21:09 > 0:21:11Now, into that pan go the lardo.

0:21:11 > 0:21:13And they can be quite crispy.

0:21:13 > 0:21:15And now in with the onions.

0:21:16 > 0:21:18- It's looking good, mate. - Yeah. I think we're there, dude.

0:21:18 > 0:21:21- Shall we deglaze? - Let's deglaze a bit, yeah.

0:21:21 > 0:21:25So, I'm going to use a ladleful of this marinade.

0:21:25 > 0:21:29Remember, it's got all the brandy, the wine, the vinegar.

0:21:29 > 0:21:33This is going to pull all those lovely caramelised bits

0:21:33 > 0:21:35off the bottom of the pan.

0:21:35 > 0:21:38Works like magic, nothing sticks.

0:21:38 > 0:21:41Now it's time for the beef to go back.

0:21:41 > 0:21:44Ooh. Get those resting juices in, dude.

0:21:44 > 0:21:46Yeah.

0:21:46 > 0:21:48And now some tomato paste.

0:21:50 > 0:21:53As for the bouquet garnis, this was the old one.

0:21:53 > 0:21:54Fini.

0:21:54 > 0:21:58But it's all about building up flavour upon flavour,

0:21:58 > 0:22:00this daube, so we pop in its twin.

0:22:01 > 0:22:04And we're not going to waste these wonderful veggies

0:22:04 > 0:22:06that we marinated in that wine and brandy.

0:22:06 > 0:22:08They go in too.

0:22:08 > 0:22:10Right, and this goes in.

0:22:10 > 0:22:11But we haven't finished yet.

0:22:11 > 0:22:12No. Oh, no!

0:22:12 > 0:22:16And to top it all off, a jug of very good beef stock.

0:22:16 > 0:22:19We don't want to waste any flavours,

0:22:19 > 0:22:21so we're going to use a pate a lutter.

0:22:21 > 0:22:24Now, lutter, in French, means to struggle.

0:22:24 > 0:22:27It's flour, water, with an egg white.

0:22:27 > 0:22:29Basically, we use it like putty,

0:22:29 > 0:22:31and, literally, as it gets hot, it'll go hard.

0:22:31 > 0:22:34You'll practically need a chisel to break it.

0:22:34 > 0:22:36You bring it to the table, crack it.

0:22:36 > 0:22:39Every bit of flavour will stay in that pan.

0:22:39 > 0:22:41Now, it's got to simmer away

0:22:41 > 0:22:44in its sealed glory for three hours.

0:22:45 > 0:22:47- Shall we go for a swim?- Tennis?

0:22:52 > 0:22:53See?

0:22:54 > 0:22:56Right, let's chibble it off.

0:22:56 > 0:22:59DAVE GASPS

0:22:59 > 0:23:00- Are you ready?- Yeah.

0:23:00 > 0:23:02Two, three, four...

0:23:02 > 0:23:04- BOTH:- Ooh...

0:23:04 > 0:23:06Ooh, that's lovely.

0:23:06 > 0:23:08- Get in.- Whoo.

0:23:08 > 0:23:09Remove the bouquet garni,

0:23:09 > 0:23:11there's nothing edible in this yet.

0:23:11 > 0:23:13Now it's time to pop in the olives.

0:23:13 > 0:23:16They're black olives and there's stones in.

0:23:16 > 0:23:18Some say you get better flavour with the stones.

0:23:19 > 0:23:23Don't forget to season, according to your taste.

0:23:23 > 0:23:27You can't beat freshly-ground black pepper and beef.

0:23:27 > 0:23:30So it now has to cook for a further hour with the lid off

0:23:30 > 0:23:34so it reduces to a beautiful, beautiful stew.

0:23:34 > 0:23:38Et voila! Our succulent daube de boeuf.

0:23:38 > 0:23:42Full of flavour, it's perfect served with rice, pasta

0:23:42 > 0:23:44or even roasties.

0:23:44 > 0:23:47Perfect end to a perfect day.

0:23:59 > 0:24:01- Au revoir!- Au revoir.- Au revoir.

0:24:01 > 0:24:03Eh, Kingy, come and have a look at this.

0:24:03 > 0:24:05What? We're trailblazers. We don't need that.

0:24:05 > 0:24:07I don't know. Let's have a look...

0:24:07 > 0:24:09You can find some interesting stuff here.

0:24:09 > 0:24:13Look, "Avignon et Provence, la Gastronomie Romaine Antique."

0:24:13 > 0:24:14You can learn how to cook Roman-style.

0:24:14 > 0:24:17Shall we give it a call? Go on, for a laugh.

0:24:17 > 0:24:18Nah.

0:24:19 > 0:24:21It's ringing. Ah, bonjour. C'est Mireille?

0:24:21 > 0:24:25Ah, bonjour. Bonjour. Je m'appelle David.

0:24:25 > 0:24:28J'avais un interest dans la gastronomie romaine antique.

0:24:28 > 0:24:30Oui. A tout a l'heure.

0:24:30 > 0:24:32Oui, oui. Bon Jovi!

0:24:32 > 0:24:33Adam Ant.

0:24:33 > 0:24:35Bon Jovi?! Adam Ant?!

0:24:35 > 0:24:37It's cool. We can go this afternoon.

0:24:37 > 0:24:39Nimes amphitheatre.

0:24:39 > 0:24:40Let's cook Roman!

0:24:43 > 0:24:47That's a masterclass in Roman cuisine sorted!

0:24:47 > 0:24:50Excellent. It seems that all roads round here

0:24:50 > 0:24:53lead us to the Roman Empire one way or another.

0:24:53 > 0:24:57And we're off to Nimes, my favourite French city.

0:24:57 > 0:24:59But with a slight detour.

0:24:59 > 0:25:02- Another detour?!- I'll get you there.

0:25:03 > 0:25:06Now, the word "awesome" is often overused,

0:25:06 > 0:25:09but now and again it's entirely appropriate,

0:25:09 > 0:25:12and this is one of those occasions.

0:25:25 > 0:25:27This is Le Pont du Gard,

0:25:27 > 0:25:32one of the highest Roman constructions in the world,

0:25:32 > 0:25:37built to bring huge amounts of water into Nimes.

0:25:37 > 0:25:40Nimes was a crucial outpost of the Roman Empire,

0:25:40 > 0:25:43so a good water supply was vital.

0:25:43 > 0:25:46It was all part of a cunning Roman equation.

0:25:46 > 0:25:49Clean water meant quality of life,

0:25:49 > 0:25:52and a good quality of life meant happy people.

0:25:52 > 0:25:54And happy people don't revolt.

0:25:54 > 0:25:57That was just one way the Romans maintained

0:25:57 > 0:25:59a hold over their empire.

0:26:01 > 0:26:04- This is incredible. - This is the top of the viaduct.

0:26:05 > 0:26:10- So this is the original watercourse, then?- Yeah, it's Roman plumbing.

0:26:10 > 0:26:13The water comes down that way, heads off there to Nimes.

0:26:13 > 0:26:15- Turns it into Nimes.- You know these bits, Kingy?

0:26:15 > 0:26:18It's the limescale, like the build-up you get in your kettle at home.

0:26:18 > 0:26:21They didn't have those tablets and stuff we put in.

0:26:21 > 0:26:24It's the mathematics involved that I can't comprehend.

0:26:24 > 0:26:26I remember somebody saying you couldn't build the arch

0:26:26 > 0:26:28on Wembley stadium without a computer.

0:26:28 > 0:26:32You think, "Ah, Le Pont du Gard, the great pyramids..."

0:26:32 > 0:26:35I think they've done all right, you know?

0:26:35 > 0:26:39Oh, Si, we're just footsteps in history, isn't it? Back in time.

0:26:39 > 0:26:41It's just amazing, man.

0:26:41 > 0:26:44Well, I'm not sure it is Roman but how about we knock up

0:26:44 > 0:26:47a little snack that is definitely Mediterranean?

0:26:47 > 0:26:50I'm game, as long as I can give it a twist.

0:26:52 > 0:26:53Oh, what a place for snacks, Kingy!

0:26:53 > 0:26:56- Yes, indeedy.- Look at that fougasse.

0:26:56 > 0:26:58- That's it.- The bread of the South.

0:26:58 > 0:27:00- It's oily, it's cheesy... - MUFFLED SPEECH

0:27:00 > 0:27:02..poppy seeds...

0:27:02 > 0:27:05- Oh, the heat! - The heat's getting to him.

0:27:05 > 0:27:08It sent Van Gogh into delusions of illusions.

0:27:08 > 0:27:09Right, listen, what we're doing...

0:27:09 > 0:27:11- I know what I'm doing! - I know what I'm doing.

0:27:11 > 0:27:15I'm doing the traditional, correct tapenade.

0:27:15 > 0:27:16Oh, boring.

0:27:16 > 0:27:19The word "tapenade" comes from "tapeno",

0:27:19 > 0:27:21which means "caper" in Provencal.

0:27:21 > 0:27:23So in addition to black olives and anchovies,

0:27:23 > 0:27:26its key ingredient is capers.

0:27:26 > 0:27:28My twist on this classic snack

0:27:28 > 0:27:32is made from green olives and it's a pate.

0:27:32 > 0:27:35So, everything, everything that I do with this tapenade

0:27:35 > 0:27:37happens in this, the pestle and mortar,

0:27:37 > 0:27:40because this recipe is steeped in antiquity.

0:27:40 > 0:27:43However, Mr Myers, what have you got yours with?

0:27:43 > 0:27:46I've got the Psychotronic 43...

0:27:46 > 0:27:47BLENDER BUZZES

0:27:47 > 0:27:50That will pulverise my pate into a pate

0:27:50 > 0:27:52in two shakes of a donkey's whatnot.

0:27:52 > 0:27:56In this part of France, everything starts with garlic.

0:27:56 > 0:27:59Right, I'm just going to put two tablespoons of capers...

0:27:59 > 0:28:02And, basically, both mixes are mega simple.

0:28:02 > 0:28:04We just mash everything together!

0:28:08 > 0:28:09Doesn't that look...

0:28:09 > 0:28:11Look at that deep green and the real black olives.

0:28:11 > 0:28:17That's a palette, the palette of the South of France.

0:28:17 > 0:28:19- Looks like tarmac. - Shut your face.

0:28:19 > 0:28:21Right.

0:28:21 > 0:28:23Cornichons go into the pate.

0:28:23 > 0:28:25And anchovies into the tapenade.

0:28:25 > 0:28:28AnchOVIES? It's very American.

0:28:28 > 0:28:29Si's put the anchOVIES into...

0:28:29 > 0:28:31- ANCHovies!- It's not ANCHovies!

0:28:31 > 0:28:33It's only ANCHovies if you come from Barrow!

0:28:33 > 0:28:35And for the pate, juice of a lemon.

0:28:35 > 0:28:38These were the ones we bought in Marseille the other day.

0:28:38 > 0:28:41As you can see, they've travelled beautifully.

0:28:41 > 0:28:42Oh... Joyous!

0:28:42 > 0:28:45It's absolutely joyous here.

0:28:45 > 0:28:47So, lemon juice.

0:28:47 > 0:28:49Cream cheese and flat-leaf parsley

0:28:49 > 0:28:52complete my pate...party!

0:28:57 > 0:29:00- Do you want a go with me thingy? - Absolutely not!

0:29:00 > 0:29:02If you make a quantity of tapenade

0:29:02 > 0:29:04and you're not going to have it all straight away,

0:29:04 > 0:29:06put it in a sealed container,

0:29:06 > 0:29:08drizzle some olive oil over the top of it,

0:29:08 > 0:29:10and it'll keep in the fridge for a good long time.

0:29:10 > 0:29:13All we have to do with my beautiful green olive pate

0:29:13 > 0:29:15is to tear the fougasse,

0:29:15 > 0:29:18smother in that delightful pate,

0:29:18 > 0:29:20give a piece to your friend with pride...

0:29:22 > 0:29:25The fire comes from the garlic, and it's the taste of Provence.

0:29:25 > 0:29:26Hmm.

0:29:26 > 0:29:29Hmm. That's good.

0:29:29 > 0:29:33The texture is creamy but the gherkins give it a lovely sharp bite.

0:29:35 > 0:29:38Right, now to try a proper tapenade.

0:29:38 > 0:29:41- I have to say, that does say Provence to me.- Does it?

0:29:42 > 0:29:48They're both incredibly different, but, together, they're perfect.

0:29:48 > 0:29:52Well, from Provence to Peterborough, both recipes work brilliantly.

0:29:52 > 0:29:54I mean, weather like this helps,

0:29:54 > 0:29:56with the river and Le Pont du Gard behind you,

0:29:56 > 0:29:58but you know what I mean!

0:30:06 > 0:30:10The Romans really built things to last.

0:30:10 > 0:30:13And now we're cruising alongside the Via Domitia,

0:30:13 > 0:30:16a road the Romans built to connect Italy with Spain.

0:30:18 > 0:30:21And it's taking us to somewhere pretty special.

0:30:22 > 0:30:24What did the Romans ever do for us, eh?!

0:30:26 > 0:30:28Oh, Dave, I loved Le Pont du Gard,

0:30:28 > 0:30:31but I must say I'm really excited about going to Nimes.

0:30:31 > 0:30:33Oh, not half as much as I am.

0:30:33 > 0:30:35I mean, I've got such fond memories of Nimes

0:30:35 > 0:30:37when I was a penniless student,

0:30:37 > 0:30:40and also going there with Lil, you know?

0:30:40 > 0:30:42We did sort of our courting there.

0:30:42 > 0:30:43It's an amazing place.

0:30:43 > 0:30:46It's a proper Roman city,

0:30:46 > 0:30:49but right in the South of France. It's magical.

0:30:49 > 0:30:52Ah, I can't wait. Honestly!

0:30:52 > 0:30:56Especially as I've secretly arranged for Dave's wife to join him here

0:30:56 > 0:30:59as a romantic treat and a bit of a surprise,

0:30:59 > 0:31:01and he hasn't got a clue.

0:31:03 > 0:31:06Wow! Nimes is as stunning as I remember,

0:31:06 > 0:31:08packed with ancient sites.

0:31:10 > 0:31:15In fact, the Roman colonisation here was so successful

0:31:15 > 0:31:18that Emperor Augustus used it to showcase

0:31:18 > 0:31:20what the Roman Empire could do for people.

0:31:23 > 0:31:25And it wasn't just architecture,

0:31:25 > 0:31:27trade and running water that they brought here.

0:31:27 > 0:31:31The Romans also introduced gourmet cuisine.

0:31:34 > 0:31:36And that's what we are going to explore next -

0:31:36 > 0:31:38Roman gastronomy.

0:31:38 > 0:31:40The food expert I called this morning

0:31:40 > 0:31:42is waiting for us.

0:31:42 > 0:31:44Guess where?

0:31:45 > 0:31:47Ah, Mireille, merci beaucoup.

0:31:47 > 0:31:49Thank you so much for coming to meet us here.

0:31:49 > 0:31:51- And what a great location! Look at this!- Yes!

0:31:53 > 0:31:56Mireille loves cooking, and her specialties are unique.

0:31:56 > 0:31:59I mean, this is the food that the Romans who went to that

0:31:59 > 0:32:01amphitheatre would be eating.

0:32:01 > 0:32:03- Well, the posh ones. What a treat. - It is.

0:32:03 > 0:32:06This really is getting immersed in the Mediterranean.

0:32:06 > 0:32:07Oh, it's superb, man.

0:32:07 > 0:32:10Her inspiration comes from 2,000-year-old recipes.

0:32:10 > 0:32:13This bread is exactly the same as the bread that they found

0:32:13 > 0:32:14in the rooms at Pompeii.

0:32:14 > 0:32:16- Really?- Mm-hmm.

0:32:16 > 0:32:20Mireille's ingredients show the extent of the empire's trade network...

0:32:29 > 0:32:33..all of which were exotic new flavours to Roman gastronomy.

0:32:33 > 0:32:35But it didn't end there.

0:32:36 > 0:32:39- Ooh. MIREILLE:- Special.

0:32:39 > 0:32:41It's... What is that?

0:32:41 > 0:32:42It's garum.

0:32:42 > 0:32:44- Garum?- Garum?

0:32:44 > 0:32:47It's a specialty sauce, very important.

0:32:47 > 0:32:50Oh, it's from dried fish!

0:32:50 > 0:32:52It's Roman fish sauce, isn't it, basically?

0:32:52 > 0:32:53It is, it is.

0:32:53 > 0:32:55And all the drippings that go through,

0:32:55 > 0:32:58the salt pulls all of the moisture out of the fish,

0:32:58 > 0:33:00it drips down and goes into that.

0:33:00 > 0:33:03This pungent fish sauce is a key ingredient

0:33:03 > 0:33:05in many Roman recipes.

0:33:06 > 0:33:09..including this ham hock en croute,

0:33:09 > 0:33:15marinated in honey, figs and bay leaves for 24 hours before roasting.

0:33:15 > 0:33:17You can taste the bay, you can taste the figs.

0:33:17 > 0:33:19You can.

0:33:19 > 0:33:21It's sweet, it's unctuous, it's lovely.

0:33:21 > 0:33:24A decadent feast fit for Caesar himself.

0:33:24 > 0:33:26It may be food from 2,000 years ago,

0:33:26 > 0:33:29but there's gastronomy, there's taste in it.

0:33:29 > 0:33:32It's food that's more than just subsistence.

0:33:32 > 0:33:33Beautiful.

0:33:33 > 0:33:35Mireille, what's for dessert?

0:33:35 > 0:33:38SHE REPLIES IN FRENCH

0:33:38 > 0:33:40So it's a domestic dessert?

0:33:40 > 0:33:42It's a dessert that's made for people at home,

0:33:42 > 0:33:43and it's stuffed dates.

0:33:43 > 0:33:45What's in the stuffing?

0:33:45 > 0:33:48- Alors, amandes.- Almonds, yes.

0:33:48 > 0:33:50- Sesame.- Sesame...

0:33:50 > 0:33:54Raisins, honey, olive oil, black pepper and ginger

0:33:54 > 0:33:57complete this sweet treat.

0:33:57 > 0:34:00And my treat for Dave has arrived.

0:34:00 > 0:34:02He still has no idea.

0:34:05 > 0:34:07Are you going to try a date?

0:34:07 > 0:34:08Want some more ginger on it?

0:34:08 > 0:34:10Ah, bonjour, monsieur!

0:34:10 > 0:34:12Ca va bien?

0:34:12 > 0:34:13Hello!

0:34:15 > 0:34:18I couldn't let you enjoy Nimes on your own.

0:34:18 > 0:34:21When did you arrive? I'm in shock. You look gorgeous.

0:34:22 > 0:34:25You're in shock I look gorgeous?!

0:34:25 > 0:34:28No, no, not shocked you look gorgeous!

0:34:28 > 0:34:30THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:34:36 > 0:34:38You two, off you go!

0:34:38 > 0:34:40- Well, have a good evening. - And you.

0:34:41 > 0:34:43- What about my bike?- Never mind your bike. We've sorted it out.

0:34:43 > 0:34:45- Give us a kiss. - Thank you very much.

0:34:45 > 0:34:47- Au revoir, madam!- Au revoir!

0:34:47 > 0:34:49Au revoir, guys.

0:34:57 > 0:34:59How are you today, mucker?

0:34:59 > 0:35:00Top of the world, thanks!

0:35:00 > 0:35:03I've said goodbye to Lil and I'm all yours again.

0:35:03 > 0:35:05What's next?

0:35:05 > 0:35:07Well, the Romans didn't just come here

0:35:07 > 0:35:09for the lovely weather.

0:35:09 > 0:35:11The region has a natural resource,

0:35:11 > 0:35:15essential to the success of the empire - salt.

0:35:17 > 0:35:21This production is at Aigues-Mortes, literally 'dead water'.

0:35:21 > 0:35:23HORN BEEPS

0:35:24 > 0:35:26- Hello!- Hello, how are you?- I'm Luc.

0:35:26 > 0:35:28- Hi, Luc, nice to meet you.- Welcome.

0:35:28 > 0:35:31- Bonjour. David.- Bonjour.

0:35:32 > 0:35:34It's a lot of salt.

0:35:34 > 0:35:35It's amazing.

0:35:36 > 0:35:38We're being shown around by Luc,

0:35:38 > 0:35:40who has worked here for most of his life,

0:35:40 > 0:35:43and he really knows his salt.

0:35:46 > 0:35:49Humans have been drawn to the salt here since antiquity,

0:35:49 > 0:35:53but no prizes for guessing who first took it seriously.

0:36:00 > 0:36:03The salt was so prized that first the Romans,

0:36:03 > 0:36:07then later rulers, maintained a settlement to defend it.

0:36:07 > 0:36:09Salt was a way to preserve food

0:36:09 > 0:36:13and thus ensure continuity of food supplies to the Roman legions,

0:36:13 > 0:36:16and the workers building the empire.

0:36:16 > 0:36:19The Romans, like the soldiers, would be paid in salt,

0:36:19 > 0:36:22hence the phrase "not worth your salt".

0:36:22 > 0:36:25But you can imagine, though, if salt was like money,

0:36:25 > 0:36:26I mean, this must be the Treasury.

0:36:26 > 0:36:28It must be like the Fort Knox of the salt world.

0:36:34 > 0:36:37The difference between sea salt and table salt

0:36:37 > 0:36:42is that table salt is usually mined from underground deposits,

0:36:42 > 0:36:46while sea salt is made by simply evaporating seawater.

0:36:48 > 0:36:51What's really intriguing is the colour of the water.

0:36:56 > 0:36:59Beta-carotene is a natural pigment,

0:36:59 > 0:37:01created here by microscopic algae,

0:37:01 > 0:37:04which thrive in the salty conditions.

0:37:04 > 0:37:06And which turns the local flamingos,

0:37:06 > 0:37:09who thrive on the algae, pink.

0:37:09 > 0:37:11The salt, though, stays white.

0:37:16 > 0:37:19- Only white.- Only white?- Only white. Naturally white.

0:37:19 > 0:37:21So, what about the gourmet salt,

0:37:21 > 0:37:25known locally as le fleur de sel, or salt flower?

0:37:25 > 0:37:28Have you got any to taste? Can we taste it?

0:37:28 > 0:37:30- It's got your name on it.- My name.

0:37:30 > 0:37:31THEY CHEER

0:37:31 > 0:37:33My name, and look...

0:37:33 > 0:37:35Take it. You can taste it.

0:37:35 > 0:37:37- It's very delicate.- Salty.

0:37:37 > 0:37:39You have calcium, magnesium.

0:37:39 > 0:37:42It is not a salt to cook. No.

0:37:42 > 0:37:44No, no, no.

0:37:44 > 0:37:46- It's a salt after cooking. - Can we borrow that?

0:37:46 > 0:37:48- Yeah.- Thanks.

0:37:48 > 0:37:49It's a present!

0:37:49 > 0:37:51- Merci.- Merci beaucoup.

0:37:51 > 0:37:53Thank you very much.

0:37:53 > 0:37:55What a top bloke, eh, Dave?

0:37:55 > 0:37:57Aye, salt of the earth, Kingy!

0:38:01 > 0:38:04I know. Let's pay homage to Luc's amazing salt

0:38:04 > 0:38:07by cooking with one of my favourite ingredients -

0:38:07 > 0:38:09salted cod.

0:38:10 > 0:38:15Definitely! Especially as brandade de morue is a specialty of Nimes.

0:38:16 > 0:38:18Mate, you've got to let Nimes go.

0:38:19 > 0:38:23Now, salt cod was a staple all over the Mediterranean.

0:38:23 > 0:38:26It kind of looks like fish hardboard.

0:38:26 > 0:38:29It was a way of preserving the vast reserves of cod that they had in those days.

0:38:29 > 0:38:31It's kind of cuisine borne out of necessity,

0:38:31 > 0:38:33cos you had to preserve the fish,

0:38:33 > 0:38:36but some of the recipes, like this one, are really tasty.

0:38:36 > 0:38:37Smell that. It ain't good.

0:38:39 > 0:38:41Now, like gammon or a ham joint,

0:38:41 > 0:38:43you can't cook the cod like this.

0:38:43 > 0:38:46First, you need to extract the salt.

0:38:46 > 0:38:49So, we've soaked and boiled our fish already.

0:38:49 > 0:38:51Right, mate.

0:38:51 > 0:38:53I am going to go off and boil our potatoes.

0:38:55 > 0:38:58To add flavour to the cod, I'm blanching it in milk

0:38:58 > 0:39:01with garlic, a bay leaf and lemon zest.

0:39:02 > 0:39:05Now, some fennel and some peppercorns.

0:39:05 > 0:39:09While that simmers away, do keep an eye, though, on the spuds.

0:39:10 > 0:39:15Right, this has been simmered for 12 minutes and left to cool now.

0:39:15 > 0:39:16Kingy!

0:39:16 > 0:39:18I'm on my way, dear fellow.

0:39:18 > 0:39:22# Right, time to put the fishy on the dishy...

0:39:22 > 0:39:24# When the boat comes in

0:39:24 > 0:39:27# Dance to your daddy Sing to your... #

0:39:27 > 0:39:30Right. So we fish this out...

0:39:30 > 0:39:33For perfect mash, I'm using a ricer.

0:39:33 > 0:39:36Now, I have very clean hands and I'm just going to pick through.

0:39:36 > 0:39:38I want no bones.

0:39:38 > 0:39:41To the riced potatoes I'm now going to add...

0:39:42 > 0:39:43..about 100ml of cream.

0:39:43 > 0:39:47What I need to do now is, I'm going to get my mortar in here

0:39:47 > 0:39:50and start crushing the fish.

0:39:51 > 0:39:55I'm adding a little bit of cooking liquor to soften the fish.

0:39:55 > 0:39:57Right, I think that's there, Kingy.

0:39:57 > 0:40:01Great. And now we add the potato.

0:40:04 > 0:40:06Now it's time to make the brandade.

0:40:06 > 0:40:07This is the special bit.

0:40:07 > 0:40:10Like mayonnaise, you beat it vigorously,

0:40:10 > 0:40:14whip it, and slowly drizzle olive oil into it.

0:40:14 > 0:40:15Are you ready?

0:40:16 > 0:40:18The olive oil binds the ingredients together

0:40:18 > 0:40:23and gives the brandade its silky smooth spreadable texture.

0:40:25 > 0:40:29You should have a white cloud-like silky consistency.

0:40:30 > 0:40:31Hmm.

0:40:31 > 0:40:33- Brilliant.- It's beautiful.

0:40:33 > 0:40:35- It needs salt and pepper.- Mm-hmm.

0:40:35 > 0:40:39Some wonderful sea salt, the flowers of sea salt.

0:40:41 > 0:40:42Some pepper.

0:40:43 > 0:40:47So, we put the brandade into a little terracotta bowl.

0:40:47 > 0:40:48Not too much.

0:40:48 > 0:40:51Unlike a fish pie, you don't want to cook it again

0:40:51 > 0:40:53or grill the top.

0:40:53 > 0:40:55You really want to keep that smooth,

0:40:55 > 0:40:57unctuous texture as it is.

0:40:57 > 0:40:58And we drizzle it with olive oil

0:40:58 > 0:41:00with, of course, one hand in the air.

0:41:00 > 0:41:01Of course.

0:41:01 > 0:41:02Ohh...

0:41:02 > 0:41:05And now a little grating of nutmeg

0:41:05 > 0:41:07with this little tincy nutmeg grater.

0:41:07 > 0:41:10This is the traditional way to serve the brandade.

0:41:10 > 0:41:13And of course, because we can, truffle.

0:41:13 > 0:41:16This is kind of a poor person's dish, but...

0:41:16 > 0:41:18- We're bigging it. - We're bigging it.

0:41:18 > 0:41:19The perigord truffle.

0:41:28 > 0:41:31- That's great.- Je suis arrive.

0:41:31 > 0:41:32Beautiful textures.

0:41:32 > 0:41:34Beautiful, subtle taste of the sea.

0:41:34 > 0:41:38It just comes together in a symphony of loveliness.

0:41:38 > 0:41:41And indeed a non-fish eater would probably enjoy this.

0:41:41 > 0:41:43You've got the citrus, you've got the fennel,

0:41:43 > 0:41:45you've got the flavours of that milk.

0:41:45 > 0:41:46It's gorgeous.

0:41:46 > 0:41:48And who doesn't like creamy potatoes?

0:42:01 > 0:42:03Another day, another adventure.

0:42:04 > 0:42:06After Provence and the Camargue,

0:42:06 > 0:42:10we're heading south towards Catalan country,

0:42:10 > 0:42:12starting in Sete, an unspoilt little port

0:42:12 > 0:42:14on the Mediterranean coast.

0:42:16 > 0:42:18Actually, it reminds me of Venice, or Birmingham.

0:42:18 > 0:42:21You know, it's full of canals and waterways, isn't it?

0:42:21 > 0:42:23A bit of a difference in the weather, though!

0:42:26 > 0:42:28Right, what's for brekkie?

0:42:28 > 0:42:29Well, as it happens,

0:42:29 > 0:42:32Sete is home to a breakfast unlike any other,

0:42:32 > 0:42:35a specialty called a tielle.

0:42:35 > 0:42:37Ooh! Bonjour, madame.

0:42:37 > 0:42:39Bonjour, madame.

0:42:39 > 0:42:40Ca va?

0:42:43 > 0:42:45The crust is made of a bread dough

0:42:45 > 0:42:49and is filled with chunks of octopus in a spicy tomato sauce.

0:42:49 > 0:42:52Blimey! And look, it's baked in all sorts of sizes

0:42:52 > 0:42:55and given an olive oil wash, to give it a bit of colour.

0:42:56 > 0:42:59This was food that was to be used and appreciated

0:42:59 > 0:43:03by people working on the farm and at sea alike.

0:43:03 > 0:43:05It reminds me of a Spanish empanada.

0:43:05 > 0:43:08Hmm. We've definitely moved away from the Provence now,

0:43:08 > 0:43:10and we're kind of entering Catalan country,

0:43:10 > 0:43:12and you can tell by the...

0:43:12 > 0:43:15The filling is deeply savoury and piquant,

0:43:15 > 0:43:17a little bit of spice at the back of it.

0:43:17 > 0:43:20- But it's great food to be shared by friends, Simon.- Oui.

0:43:20 > 0:43:23- Which reminds me of that great song by Georges Brassens.- Which one?

0:43:25 > 0:43:26Les Copains D'Abord.

0:43:27 > 0:43:29- Friendship first, dude.- Yeah.

0:43:35 > 0:43:37THEY CHEER

0:43:40 > 0:43:42Bonjour!

0:43:46 > 0:43:49Moving on, we're getting ever closer to Spain.

0:43:50 > 0:43:53But, Si, one thing we've learned the more we've travelled

0:43:53 > 0:43:54in this part of the world,

0:43:54 > 0:43:58is that national boundaries don't mean much here.

0:43:58 > 0:44:01You're not wrong, Dave. We're in Catalan country now,

0:44:01 > 0:44:04which starts in France and goes south into Spain.

0:44:09 > 0:44:11And the Roman legacy is still in evidence,

0:44:11 > 0:44:14linking the countries around the Mediterranean.

0:44:14 > 0:44:16Thanks to its temperate climate,

0:44:16 > 0:44:20Catalan country is an outstanding wine-growing region.

0:44:20 > 0:44:23But we are not here for the wine because it is also where

0:44:23 > 0:44:25they make world-class vinegar.

0:44:26 > 0:44:30La Guinelle has been supplying vinegar to some of France's best

0:44:30 > 0:44:32chefs for the last 18 years.

0:44:38 > 0:44:43Nathalie is the artisan producer and mastermind

0:44:43 > 0:44:45behind this incredible product.

0:44:45 > 0:44:47Bonjour!

0:44:47 > 0:44:49Oh, you can smell the vinegar.

0:44:49 > 0:44:51Nowadays, Natalie shares her passion for vinegar,

0:44:51 > 0:44:55and the running of the place, with her son, Adrian.

0:44:58 > 0:45:00Are these all different vinegars?

0:45:00 > 0:45:02HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:45:10 > 0:45:13Banyuls is the name of the local wine variety

0:45:13 > 0:45:18that Nathalie uses to make the vinegar that's in such demand.

0:45:27 > 0:45:31Like all the best things in life, making vinegar is a natural process.

0:45:32 > 0:45:35Bacteria in the air form a film on the wine

0:45:35 > 0:45:38and slowly turns the alcohol into acetic acid,

0:45:38 > 0:45:40or what we call vinegar.

0:45:40 > 0:45:42This bacteria can have many forms.

0:45:43 > 0:45:49Very different looks but it's always like we call the mother.

0:45:49 > 0:45:52The mother, as they call it, is the skin that covers the wine

0:45:52 > 0:45:55as the transformation into vinegar occurs.

0:45:55 > 0:46:00It is pink for red wine and beige for white wine.

0:46:00 > 0:46:03How long does it take for the wine to turn into vinegar?

0:46:03 > 0:46:05HE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:46:05 > 0:46:08- SHE SPEAKS FRENCH - No answer.- Really?

0:46:12 > 0:46:16But it's so important, vinegar, to the gastronomic palette.

0:46:16 > 0:46:21It's the sour, the slightly sweet, the slightly bitter.

0:46:21 > 0:46:24When great chefs use vinegar properly,

0:46:24 > 0:46:26it lifts a dish to another level.

0:46:26 > 0:46:31We are desperate to taste some. Could we try some vinegar?

0:46:40 > 0:46:41It's viscous, isn't it?

0:46:46 > 0:46:50To me it tastes a little bit of raspberries, the fruit.

0:46:52 > 0:46:56I can imagine making something with venison with that, with game.

0:46:56 > 0:47:01It's so much more than just an acid...sweetness.

0:47:01 > 0:47:03Well, thank the good Lord for bacteria, eh, mate.

0:47:03 > 0:47:05We're not done yet.

0:47:05 > 0:47:09There's another local product that Nathalie wants us to taste.

0:47:18 > 0:47:21They're wonderful, aren't they?

0:47:21 > 0:47:22Tres bon.

0:47:22 > 0:47:24They are incredible.

0:47:24 > 0:47:27It's one of the components of great cuisine and we've found it here,

0:47:27 > 0:47:29like you say, from a small artisan producer,

0:47:29 > 0:47:31it's in some of the best restaurants in the world.

0:47:31 > 0:47:34And just taste it and you know why.

0:47:34 > 0:47:36Thank you so much for taking the time.

0:47:36 > 0:47:38- Merci beaucoup.- Merci.

0:47:41 > 0:47:43- Magnifique!- Merci beaucoup.

0:47:43 > 0:47:45Absolutely fantastic.

0:47:45 > 0:47:47- Bye, Nathalie.- Au revoir, Nathalie.

0:47:47 > 0:47:48Au revoir.

0:47:48 > 0:47:53That was incredible. No wonder Nathalie's vinegar is such a success.

0:47:53 > 0:47:58And I hadn't realised that this area is about so much more than wine.

0:47:58 > 0:48:01Turns out it's one big orchard.

0:48:01 > 0:48:04Yes, the weather and the soil are perfect

0:48:04 > 0:48:07for growing fruit, especially apricots and cherries.

0:48:09 > 0:48:13Our next stop, Ceret, is the place for cherries,

0:48:13 > 0:48:16cherries so good that, by tradition,

0:48:16 > 0:48:19fruit from the first picking each year

0:48:19 > 0:48:21is sent to the French President.

0:48:21 > 0:48:25This is going to be the perfect place

0:48:25 > 0:48:27to stock up for our next recipe.

0:48:27 > 0:48:30We should cook something inspired by the fruit

0:48:30 > 0:48:32and the glorious weather here.

0:48:33 > 0:48:36Where shall we stop? There's so much choice.

0:48:36 > 0:48:38Just follow the sign, dude.

0:48:39 > 0:48:40Bonjour, madam. Bonjour.

0:48:40 > 0:48:42Bonjour, monsieur

0:48:42 > 0:48:44Bonjour. I saw the sign at the top...

0:48:44 > 0:48:45- Bonjour.- Bonjour.

0:48:45 > 0:48:47..and they say that Ceret is one of the best places in the world

0:48:47 > 0:48:50to buy fruit, especially apricots and cherries.

0:48:50 > 0:48:52Ah, oui.

0:48:52 > 0:48:54- Oh, merci. Merci.- Superb.

0:48:56 > 0:48:58Look at that.

0:48:58 > 0:49:01When you pop the cherry into your mouth,

0:49:01 > 0:49:04it's like what you want a cherry to taste like.

0:49:04 > 0:49:06- It is.- Do you know what I mean?

0:49:06 > 0:49:08It's like what it looks like, it tastes like.

0:49:08 > 0:49:10- It's just wonderful.- Yeah.

0:49:10 > 0:49:11Apricots, me favourite.

0:49:12 > 0:49:14- Fantastic.- It's fantastic.

0:49:14 > 0:49:17Sweet, sunshiney, apricot flavour.

0:49:17 > 0:49:20Beaucoup de soleil ici.

0:49:20 > 0:49:22This is just what we need for our recipe, Si.

0:49:22 > 0:49:25Madame, what do Catalan people eat?

0:49:25 > 0:49:27What's the history of their food?

0:49:27 > 0:49:28What do they eat?

0:49:32 > 0:49:35THEY SPEAK FRENCH

0:49:41 > 0:49:44I think we're going to find out first-hand what a cargolade is.

0:49:44 > 0:49:47It involves snails and a barbecue, and we've been invited.

0:49:47 > 0:49:49- Right, let's go, dude.- Weyhey!

0:49:49 > 0:49:51- Fab.- I love snails.

0:49:51 > 0:49:54Brilliant. That's dinner sorted.

0:49:54 > 0:49:59First, let's cook a Catalan recipe using the local fruit.

0:49:59 > 0:50:00A cake!

0:50:05 > 0:50:06- Simon.- Yes, David.

0:50:06 > 0:50:09What does Bob Marley have in common with a gypsy?

0:50:09 > 0:50:13- Cricket?- No, they both like their cake with jam in,

0:50:13 > 0:50:15jam in,

0:50:15 > 0:50:20especially when the jam comes from Christine and Fabrice's orchard.

0:50:20 > 0:50:22You see, what we're going to do is,

0:50:22 > 0:50:24we're going to cook a bras de gitan.

0:50:24 > 0:50:26Bras de gitan.

0:50:26 > 0:50:28- Which, translated, means "gypsy's arm".- Yes.

0:50:28 > 0:50:32Now, it's a very, very old, traditional recipe in these parts.

0:50:32 > 0:50:36- It's a wonderful story. So... - BOTH:- Once upon a time...

0:50:36 > 0:50:38This region played host to seasonal workers,

0:50:38 > 0:50:41who came to pick the fruit in the many orchards here.

0:50:41 > 0:50:44And most of them were from the gypsy community.

0:50:46 > 0:50:48When the fruit picker had done a particularly good job,

0:50:48 > 0:50:51the lady of the house would bake him a cake.

0:50:52 > 0:50:56And the cake is rather like the most exotic, generous swiss roll

0:50:56 > 0:51:00you've ever seen, and this would be wrapped in a cloth, and the gypsy,

0:51:00 > 0:51:02or the worker, would take that away with them,

0:51:02 > 0:51:04and the cake was called "a gypsy's arm".

0:51:04 > 0:51:06OK. So what we're going to do...

0:51:06 > 0:51:09I'm just going to put some heat gently into this pan.

0:51:09 > 0:51:15Firstly, I'm making a creme patissiere, starting with milk and a vanilla pod.

0:51:15 > 0:51:18And we're going to bring that to the boil so the milk is infused

0:51:18 > 0:51:21with that wonderful aroma of vanilla.

0:51:21 > 0:51:24Turn it off, let it cool just for a moment...

0:51:24 > 0:51:27- You're at the boil.- We're at the boil.

0:51:27 > 0:51:33Meanwhile, I'm creaming some egg yolk, sugar and cornflour.

0:51:33 > 0:51:36Then mix the warm milk with the egg mixture.

0:51:36 > 0:51:38We put it back on a gentle heat

0:51:38 > 0:51:42and wait for it to thicken, so the flour cooks out.

0:51:42 > 0:51:43We want it thick as well.

0:51:43 > 0:51:46Remember, it's the filling for a cake.

0:51:46 > 0:51:48- POSH VOICE:- For the cake mix, I'm using flour.

0:51:48 > 0:51:51It's funny, I think it's with Mary Berry,

0:51:51 > 0:51:54whenever I talk about baking now, I go all kind of posh.

0:51:54 > 0:51:57- POSH VOICE:- Some ground almonds, baking powder for a bit of lift,

0:51:57 > 0:52:01a pinch of salt, and that's it for the dry goods.

0:52:02 > 0:52:05- RESUMES NORMAL TONE:- Now, into this big bowl, I want four eggs.

0:52:07 > 0:52:10And now we're going to cream it with more caster sugar.

0:52:10 > 0:52:12Just dunk it in.

0:52:12 > 0:52:14- POSH VOICE:- Once my sugar and eggs are creamed,

0:52:14 > 0:52:17the dry ingredients are folded in.

0:52:17 > 0:52:20And now just a couple of drops of almond extract.

0:52:20 > 0:52:22Use extract not essence.

0:52:22 > 0:52:24Essence is kind of chemically,

0:52:24 > 0:52:26extract is from the almond.

0:52:26 > 0:52:27Now, you need one of these.

0:52:27 > 0:52:29It's a Swiss roll tin.

0:52:29 > 0:52:31It's been greased and lined with baking parchment.

0:52:31 > 0:52:33I used to love a Swiss roll when I was a kid.

0:52:33 > 0:52:34My mother used to say,

0:52:34 > 0:52:37"Oh, would you like a slice of roly-poly with your pop?"

0:52:37 > 0:52:39"Oh, yes, Mother." But it was very frugal.

0:52:39 > 0:52:41This isn't.

0:52:41 > 0:52:46Just pour this batter into your greased and lined Swiss roll tin.

0:52:48 > 0:52:51It'll go into a moderate oven for 20 minutes.

0:52:53 > 0:52:56Now, creme pat takes a little patience...

0:52:58 > 0:52:59..but it's worth it.

0:52:59 > 0:53:04Keep the heat even, keep it gentle and keep stirring.

0:53:04 > 0:53:08And then it's ready when you can see it starting to trail.

0:53:08 > 0:53:12So that will be a perfect consistency for our cake.

0:53:15 > 0:53:19Now, I've taken care to make sure that the clingfilm

0:53:19 > 0:53:20sits on the top.

0:53:20 > 0:53:23The reason for that is, I don't want a skin to form,

0:53:23 > 0:53:26because if a skin forms it changes the consistency entirely

0:53:26 > 0:53:30of the creme patissiere, so it's important that we do that.

0:53:30 > 0:53:33Well, that's it. Look at that. It's risen up beautifully.

0:53:33 > 0:53:35I've just loosened it a little bit,

0:53:35 > 0:53:36so we've got a chance of getting it out.

0:53:36 > 0:53:39If you can think of it as the centre of a spiral,

0:53:39 > 0:53:41we need it to double over quite quickly,

0:53:41 > 0:53:44so I'm just going to put a cut here,

0:53:44 > 0:53:46just about halfway through.

0:53:46 > 0:53:48It's a bit like dressmaking.

0:53:48 > 0:53:50I've made many a pleated skirt!

0:53:50 > 0:53:52So we need to turn this out...

0:53:54 > 0:53:55..like so.

0:53:55 > 0:53:58Cos remember, that side is your finished side.

0:53:59 > 0:54:01Look at that. It's beautiful.

0:54:01 > 0:54:05I'll just save this and make something for children at Christmas!

0:54:08 > 0:54:10Now, this is in honour of my mother.

0:54:10 > 0:54:11She loved orange liqueurs.

0:54:11 > 0:54:13She loved cake, especially like this one,

0:54:13 > 0:54:15with almonds and icing sugar.

0:54:15 > 0:54:16She'd sit down with a slab of it,

0:54:16 > 0:54:18with the icing sugar in her moustache,

0:54:18 > 0:54:20and roll her eyes in ecstasy.

0:54:20 > 0:54:22So, much as you put kirsch with a Black Forest gateau,

0:54:22 > 0:54:25we're going to sprinkle some orange liqueur

0:54:25 > 0:54:28onto the sponge. Not too much, cos we don't want it too soggy.

0:54:28 > 0:54:32If you've got children and you don't want to get plastered,

0:54:32 > 0:54:33leave the booze out.

0:54:35 > 0:54:37Now, these are the jams that we bought from Christine.

0:54:37 > 0:54:39Are we going to go apricot or black cherry?

0:54:39 > 0:54:41It's an arm, innit? It's obvious.

0:54:41 > 0:54:43- Black cherry.- Blood.

0:54:43 > 0:54:45So I start in the middle.

0:54:45 > 0:54:49You want about a 2cm border, cos it's going to spread.

0:54:50 > 0:54:51Perfect.

0:54:51 > 0:54:53- Right. - Ohhh!

0:54:53 > 0:54:55The creme pat.

0:54:55 > 0:54:57Beautiful work, Kingy.

0:54:57 > 0:55:00Now I know why your bathroom tiling is so good.

0:55:00 > 0:55:02Now we come to the climax of this operation.

0:55:02 > 0:55:05It's the part where you roll your poly.

0:55:05 > 0:55:07So a damp tea towel...

0:55:07 > 0:55:10Gently roll the sponge.

0:55:10 > 0:55:12- And look, don't worry if it cracks. - No.

0:55:14 > 0:55:15That's it.

0:55:15 > 0:55:18That's it. Don't worry about the custard.

0:55:18 > 0:55:20Oh, look at that. It's more like a gypsy's leg!

0:55:20 > 0:55:22Listen, they're big lads, gypsies.

0:55:22 > 0:55:24Yes. I wish I had biceps like that!

0:55:26 > 0:55:27- Yeah?- Yeah.

0:55:30 > 0:55:32And to finish, add some apricot jam on the top

0:55:32 > 0:55:36and sprinkle over a few sliced almonds.

0:55:36 > 0:55:38There you are, Kingy, there we have it.

0:55:38 > 0:55:40The bras de gitan, the gypsy's arm.

0:55:51 > 0:55:53For our last evening in Catalan country,

0:55:53 > 0:55:56we've been invited by Christine and Fabrice,

0:55:56 > 0:55:59who made that awesome jam we used.

0:55:59 > 0:56:01We're joining them and their family

0:56:01 > 0:56:05to try an exciting Catalan specialty, a cargolade.

0:56:05 > 0:56:08That's a snail barbecue to you and me.

0:56:08 > 0:56:11THEY GREET IN FRENCH

0:56:21 > 0:56:23L'escargot, um...

0:56:23 > 0:56:25From the vineyard?

0:56:25 > 0:56:27They are natural.

0:56:29 > 0:56:32I've had snails... You know, in Burgundy, we have the garlic butter,

0:56:32 > 0:56:34but this, it's like the sunshine,

0:56:34 > 0:56:36is just that stronger.

0:56:36 > 0:56:40I'd say to anybody, if you like eating cockles or mussels, seafood,

0:56:40 > 0:56:42they're a lovely food.

0:56:42 > 0:56:44Well, in England they used to call them "wallfish".

0:56:46 > 0:56:48This carafe is called a porron,

0:56:48 > 0:56:51and it's a local way of sharing a really good bottle of wine.

0:56:51 > 0:56:53You start close in...

0:56:53 > 0:56:55CHRISTINE SPEAKS FRENCH

0:56:59 > 0:57:02You've got to get it away from your mush!

0:57:02 > 0:57:04Oui, oui, oui, oui, oui.

0:57:07 > 0:57:09Oh, c'est bon.

0:57:09 > 0:57:11What exactly is it to be Catalan?

0:57:34 > 0:57:37Well, Catalans definitely know how to throw a party

0:57:37 > 0:57:40and make two travellers feel very much at home.

0:57:40 > 0:57:42- Is it Catalan sausage?- Si.

0:57:42 > 0:57:44It's superb.

0:57:47 > 0:57:49I think it's interesting, isn't it, now that we're here

0:57:49 > 0:57:52on the borders with Spain and in Catalan country,

0:57:52 > 0:57:54the Roman road that we followed

0:57:54 > 0:57:56is the absolute backbone.

0:57:56 > 0:58:00That superhighway of culture, history and food.

0:58:00 > 0:58:03It's just wonderful. It's Mediterranean.

0:58:03 > 0:58:06- Spain next.- Yeah.- We're nearly in Spain.- We are.

0:58:06 > 0:58:08- See that?- Yeah.- Over there a bit.

0:58:08 > 0:58:10# Espana, por favor! #

0:58:11 > 0:58:13Cannot wait!

0:58:13 > 0:58:17Next time, we're off to Spain but not the mainland, the Balearics.

0:58:17 > 0:58:19- BOTH:- Ole!

0:58:19 > 0:58:21There's epic landscapes...

0:58:21 > 0:58:22Oh, that is incredible.

0:58:22 > 0:58:26Seas to sail and, of course, tasty food to try.

0:58:26 > 0:58:27Look at that.

0:58:27 > 0:58:30Some of the best we've ever had.

0:58:30 > 0:58:31Oh, come here.

0:58:31 > 0:58:33If that had a wedding dress, I'd marry it.