To the Centre of the Earth

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04'I'm Andrew Graham-Dixon and I'm an art historian.'

0:00:04 > 0:00:08It's one of the top five most beautiful paintings in the world.

0:00:08 > 0:00:10'I'm Giorgio Locatelli and I'm a chef.'

0:00:11 > 0:00:15When you say handmade, that's what it means!

0:00:15 > 0:00:18'We're both passionate about my homeland, Italy.'

0:00:18 > 0:00:21It's so, so beautiful.

0:00:21 > 0:00:27'The rich flavours and classic dishes of this land are in my culinary DNA.'

0:00:27 > 0:00:30I wouldn't mind being a pig if I have to grow up here.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34'And this country's rich layers of art and history

0:00:34 > 0:00:37'have captivated me since childhood.'

0:00:37 > 0:00:39Primitive but actually fantastic.

0:00:39 > 0:00:40Beautiful, sophisticated.

0:00:42 > 0:00:44'In this series, we'll be travelling all the way up

0:00:44 > 0:00:46'the east coast of the country,

0:00:46 > 0:00:50'from the deep south to the extreme north,

0:00:50 > 0:00:53'stepping off the tourist track wherever we go.'

0:00:53 > 0:00:55- Not a bad spot, is it? - This is a dream.

0:00:58 > 0:01:02'I want to show off some of my country's most surprising food,

0:01:02 > 0:01:06'often most born out of necessity but leaving a legacy that's

0:01:06 > 0:01:10'still shaping Italian modern cuisine around the world.'

0:01:10 > 0:01:13- It's better than an oyster. - Much better than an oyster.

0:01:13 > 0:01:17'And the art, too, is extraordinary, exotic

0:01:17 > 0:01:19'and deeply rooted in history.'

0:01:24 > 0:01:26We began in the deep south

0:01:26 > 0:01:30and will finish up in the far north in the Veneto,

0:01:30 > 0:01:32but on this leg of our journey, we'll be unpacking

0:01:32 > 0:01:37two regions in the very middle - Le Marche and Umbria,

0:01:37 > 0:01:41home to some of the most captivating Renaissance art in all of Italy.

0:01:43 > 0:01:44And trying its delicious,

0:01:44 > 0:01:48natural flavours as we travel into the heart of Italy.

0:01:59 > 0:02:01We start in Le Marche,

0:02:01 > 0:02:03a region that rolls from the Apennine Mountains,

0:02:03 > 0:02:07the backbone of Italy, down to the Adriatic coast.

0:02:09 > 0:02:13We're going to begin in a place that I love - Urbino,

0:02:13 > 0:02:16the town that gave us the painter Raphael

0:02:16 > 0:02:20and the architect Bramante, who created St Peters in Rome.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24It's a little Renaissance gem of a town.

0:02:29 > 0:02:33So, this stand seems to have caught your eye. What is this?

0:02:33 > 0:02:36This is what I wanted to show you for a long time.

0:02:36 > 0:02:39This is a real speciality of Le Marche.

0:02:39 > 0:02:40This is called olive ascolane.

0:02:40 > 0:02:44- Buongiorno.- Buongiorno a voi. - This is Ze Migliori.

0:02:44 > 0:02:47- Ciao. Buongiorno.- Mio figlio. - And this is his son.

0:02:47 > 0:02:50And his father used to do this, and his father's father used to do this.

0:02:50 > 0:02:53- Oh, OK.- So they travel all over the region to make this delicacy.

0:02:55 > 0:03:00To make olive ascolane, Ze Migliori stuffs the olives with meat

0:03:00 > 0:03:03and his son Augusto deep fries them in breadcrumbs...

0:03:05 > 0:03:09..to create this simple but richly-flavoured snack.

0:03:12 > 0:03:15The most important thing is to use the right type of olives.

0:03:15 > 0:03:19- Have I tasted these olives...- No. - ..sometimes stuffed with pepper?

0:03:19 > 0:03:22- No, no, no, no.- They're only used for this?- Yes.

0:03:22 > 0:03:23The olives...

0:03:23 > 0:03:27TRANSLATION:

0:03:27 > 0:03:29You have to taste these olives because they taste different.

0:03:29 > 0:03:32- What does it mean, 'tenera'? - Tenera - tender.

0:03:32 > 0:03:33Tenera e crocante.

0:03:33 > 0:03:36Because it's tender and very crispy in the same time

0:03:36 > 0:03:38and it has a fantastic flavour.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40These olives really makes the difference, you know.

0:03:40 > 0:03:44- They're sweet, they're sweet. - Sweet, completely.

0:03:44 > 0:03:46Let me show you how to make one.

0:03:46 > 0:03:48I cut the tip and then I follow it.

0:03:48 > 0:03:53Just go around without breaking until you make it a spiral out of it.

0:03:55 > 0:03:59- Brilliant.- So we got the spiral. - You've got a S-shaped curl of olive.

0:03:59 > 0:04:01And then I got a little bit of the stuffing...

0:04:01 > 0:04:04Manzo e maiale fatto a tocchetti.

0:04:04 > 0:04:09Beef...beef and pork all cut in little pieces and cooked like a ragu.

0:04:09 > 0:04:11I put it here.

0:04:11 > 0:04:13And then we rebuild the olives around it.

0:04:13 > 0:04:15- So you are kind of replacing the olive stone?- Yeah.

0:04:15 > 0:04:20Then it goes into the flour, and then in the egg...

0:04:20 > 0:04:23and from the eggs onto the breadcrumbs.

0:04:25 > 0:04:30Remember, the fritto - the fried - is always something for Sunday.

0:04:30 > 0:04:34It was something you have to be a rich occasion to have fritto.

0:04:34 > 0:04:38- Is that because traditionally it was quite a luxurious thing to do?- Si.

0:04:38 > 0:04:42TRANSLATION:

0:04:51 > 0:04:53They ask you

0:04:53 > 0:04:56- when you come back from a wedding, "Was the..."- "Was the bride..."

0:04:56 > 0:04:59"..bride beautiful?" "Yes, what about the olives?"

0:04:59 > 0:05:01THEY LAUGH

0:05:01 > 0:05:03- What about the olives?! - Much more important.

0:05:03 > 0:05:06- E la verita.- Ti credo. I believe you, I believe you.

0:05:06 > 0:05:09Look at that. You can put it in there.

0:05:09 > 0:05:11Do we just wait a second?

0:05:11 > 0:05:13No, no, eat them straightaway. Nice and hot, Andrew.

0:05:16 > 0:05:19Sempre cosi. "Be careful," thank you.

0:05:19 > 0:05:20You tell me the truth.

0:05:21 > 0:05:23- Eccole qua.- Mmm.

0:05:25 > 0:05:27Is it delicious?

0:05:27 > 0:05:29- It's unbelievable.- Yes!

0:05:29 > 0:05:30Can you imagine this...

0:05:30 > 0:05:33E buonissimo. It's beautiful.

0:05:33 > 0:05:37What's surprising about them is how delicate the taste is.

0:05:37 > 0:05:39You've got this sort of sweetness in the olives

0:05:39 > 0:05:42and then you've got this, um...

0:05:42 > 0:05:44- saltiness.- Saltiness.

0:05:44 > 0:05:46I remember, I went to a wedding.

0:05:46 > 0:05:49I must have been 18 or something like that. They had these.

0:05:49 > 0:05:51I tell you what, it's the first time I had them.

0:05:51 > 0:05:53I just went on, and on, and on.

0:05:53 > 0:05:56I never had nothing else to eat than olive ascolane.

0:05:56 > 0:05:59When I discovered them, I was like, "My God, this is incredible!"

0:05:59 > 0:06:02I can see why, they're very moreish.

0:06:02 > 0:06:06- Grazie mille.- Grazie a voi.

0:06:06 > 0:06:08Mi raccomando, eh? TRANSLATION:

0:06:08 > 0:06:11- ALL:- Grazie.

0:06:11 > 0:06:13Grazie. Arrivederci.

0:06:15 > 0:06:16Take one.

0:06:19 > 0:06:21The olives are mouthwatering,

0:06:21 > 0:06:26but today's main course is a rather different kind of dish.

0:06:26 > 0:06:30I'm taking Giorgio to see perhaps Urbino's greatest treasure,

0:06:30 > 0:06:34the vast palace of the man who put this town on the map.

0:06:34 > 0:06:38Scholar, connoisseur, commander of a private army,

0:06:38 > 0:06:42he was one of the driving forces behind the Italian Renaissance.

0:06:44 > 0:06:50Urbino as we see it now is very much the creation of one man.

0:06:50 > 0:06:51And he's signed the city.

0:06:51 > 0:06:54Everywhere you look, you see his initials.

0:06:54 > 0:06:59FE DVX, Federico Da Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino.

0:06:59 > 0:07:00He wasn't afraid to show off.

0:07:00 > 0:07:03Oh, no, he ruled this place.

0:07:03 > 0:07:05He was the tyrant of the town.

0:07:05 > 0:07:07A benevolent tyrant, or so he liked to think.

0:07:08 > 0:07:12Federico was obsessed by the classical past.

0:07:12 > 0:07:15And this beautiful inscription tells us all about him.

0:07:15 > 0:07:17He won every battle in which he fought,

0:07:17 > 0:07:21he lead his troops into action six times,

0:07:21 > 0:07:24but through war he brought peace.

0:07:24 > 0:07:27He was victorious.

0:07:27 > 0:07:31This inscription is a masterpiece of early Renaissance typography.

0:07:31 > 0:07:34Absolutely beautiful writing.

0:07:34 > 0:07:36Very modern, in a way, isn't it?

0:07:36 > 0:07:40Very, very, very sharp and clear and rational.

0:07:40 > 0:07:41I love the 'Q'.

0:07:41 > 0:07:45The 'Q' is the same as the 'O' but it's got this really long tail.

0:07:45 > 0:07:48I love these punctuation points between the words.

0:07:48 > 0:07:49There's the sort of little leaf.

0:07:49 > 0:07:52He loved really fine stone carving.

0:07:52 > 0:07:55This palace is his domain, it's all about him.

0:08:00 > 0:08:04Federico was a warrior, but with an enquiring mind.

0:08:04 > 0:08:09He'd had a classical education, he read Latin military texts

0:08:09 > 0:08:12and he studied rhetoric so he could persuade his enemies to

0:08:12 > 0:08:16surrender without even fighting, and he'd still get paid.

0:08:16 > 0:08:19Knowledge, for Federico, was power.

0:08:19 > 0:08:23Everything in this palace is calculated to his specifications,

0:08:23 > 0:08:26even the shallowness of these steps.

0:08:26 > 0:08:30- You notice how easy they are to walk up?- Yes.- That's because

0:08:30 > 0:08:34he said to his architect, "If I get to the top of my stairs

0:08:34 > 0:08:37"and I've broken into a sweat, you've done a bad job."

0:08:37 > 0:08:41The palace was heavily looted in the years after Federico's death

0:08:41 > 0:08:44and now it's eerily empty.

0:08:44 > 0:08:48From the few things that remain, you can still piece together

0:08:48 > 0:08:52a portrait of Federico himself, a true Renaissance man.

0:08:52 > 0:08:58They have kept this, which is a very rare portrait of Federico himself...

0:08:58 > 0:08:59Hmm.

0:08:59 > 0:09:03..with his son in his library.

0:09:03 > 0:09:05I like the idea that instead of being on the horse like that,

0:09:05 > 0:09:08he's there with a book in his hand.

0:09:08 > 0:09:11Knowledge was as important to him as courage.

0:09:12 > 0:09:15I think the expression is incredible.

0:09:15 > 0:09:17Look, he's got lines all over his head,

0:09:17 > 0:09:21like he's really thinking heavily.

0:09:21 > 0:09:27Almost like saying, "I'm strong, I'm powerful. I also have knowledge."

0:09:27 > 0:09:30He's always painted from this side

0:09:30 > 0:09:31because, when he was young,

0:09:31 > 0:09:34he was passionately in love with this woman

0:09:34 > 0:09:37and he jousted in her colours.

0:09:37 > 0:09:39And one day, his opponent's lance

0:09:39 > 0:09:44went through his visor and completely removed Federico's eye.

0:09:44 > 0:09:46So he was blind in one eye on the other side

0:09:46 > 0:09:49and apparently had a very disfiguring scar.

0:09:49 > 0:09:52Do you notice that he has no bridge to his nose?

0:09:52 > 0:09:54- A gap.- There's a gap.

0:09:54 > 0:09:57Now, some people think that's because

0:09:57 > 0:10:00when the lance entered the visor of his helmet,

0:10:00 > 0:10:04it removed part of his nose as well as his eye.

0:10:04 > 0:10:06There's another theory which I really like -

0:10:06 > 0:10:12according to which Federico actually asked his surgeon,

0:10:12 > 0:10:13his court surgeon,

0:10:13 > 0:10:16to remove the bridge of his nose.

0:10:16 > 0:10:18So that he could see with the other eye...

0:10:18 > 0:10:21Exactly, cos he was a great student of optics.

0:10:21 > 0:10:24He commissioned the first great Renaissance treatise

0:10:24 > 0:10:27on perspective, and it's all about what the single eye can see.

0:10:29 > 0:10:34Over here, there's a really good example, or proof, of Federico's

0:10:34 > 0:10:39interest in the science of vision, the science of optics.

0:10:39 > 0:10:42This...this is called The Ideal City,

0:10:42 > 0:10:45and it's a perfectly perspectively

0:10:45 > 0:10:50drawn and painted depiction of, I think,

0:10:50 > 0:10:55the kind of city that Federico wanted to turn Urbino into.

0:10:55 > 0:11:00This was all absolutely brand-new, this Renaissance ability

0:11:00 > 0:11:04to create a perspectively perfect depiction

0:11:04 > 0:11:10mathematically receding through space of an architectural vision.

0:11:11 > 0:11:15You know, Andrew, I like to think that somebody 600 years ago

0:11:15 > 0:11:20just comes here and saw this and thought, "Wow, this is the future!"

0:11:20 > 0:11:23This would have seemed absolutely futuristic.

0:11:23 > 0:11:26Federico and his artists saw themselves as visionaries.

0:11:26 > 0:11:28They WERE visionaries.

0:11:28 > 0:11:29The new Renaissance ideas

0:11:29 > 0:11:31that lie behind a picture like this

0:11:31 > 0:11:34have very much shaped our world.

0:11:34 > 0:11:37- Definitely.- If you think of a city like Paris,

0:11:37 > 0:11:42which is...with its huge, wide avenues, very carefully planned.

0:11:42 > 0:11:46Central buildings, like the Theatre de Paris.

0:11:46 > 0:11:48It's absolutely that notion.

0:11:49 > 0:11:55It's about doing away with the medieval labyrinth of old towns.

0:11:57 > 0:11:59It's very beautiful and very peaceful

0:11:59 > 0:12:00and there is nobody there.

0:12:00 > 0:12:02The only live things -

0:12:02 > 0:12:04two little pigeon there.

0:12:04 > 0:12:08They've crept unnoticed, or they've flown unnoticed,

0:12:08 > 0:12:11into The Ideal City.

0:12:11 > 0:12:15All the door open. The windows are open as well.

0:12:15 > 0:12:16It's quite eerie.

0:12:16 > 0:12:19It's like a sort of Marie Celeste city.

0:12:21 > 0:12:25Federico's Ideal Cities had a huge influence on the public

0:12:25 > 0:12:27spaces of the modern world,

0:12:27 > 0:12:30but he was actually a very private man.

0:12:30 > 0:12:35And behind this empty enthronement hall is his personal study,

0:12:35 > 0:12:37a place of retreat,

0:12:37 > 0:12:40which is one of my favourite rooms in the whole world.

0:12:41 > 0:12:46In this great huge palace with its vast, echoing halls,

0:12:46 > 0:12:50the best room of all is the smallest.

0:12:50 > 0:12:55- This is Federico's private Studiolo, his study.- Wow.

0:12:56 > 0:13:03Still with its original 15th-century wood-panelled walls.

0:13:04 > 0:13:11Every inch decorated with this tremendously intricate,

0:13:11 > 0:13:14absolutely beautiful inlaid wood.

0:13:16 > 0:13:20Designed and created by the very finest artists

0:13:20 > 0:13:22of the early Renaissance.

0:13:24 > 0:13:28Botticelli designed this figure of one the three Graces.

0:13:28 > 0:13:34Piero della Francesca possibly designed this landscape.

0:13:37 > 0:13:40Everywhere you look it's just a feast for the eyes.

0:13:40 > 0:13:42Unbelievable.

0:13:42 > 0:13:46You see that trapezoidal circle?

0:13:46 > 0:13:49Almost impossible to create the image of that in perspective

0:13:49 > 0:13:52if you're painting, let alone to do it in inlaid wood.

0:13:54 > 0:13:59Isn't it something? I mean, the sheer level of optical trickery

0:13:59 > 0:14:01and illusionism in these panels.

0:14:01 > 0:14:05This is the absolute pinnacle of the art form of intarsio.

0:14:07 > 0:14:10It's all different types of wood, no?

0:14:10 > 0:14:12Different types of wood to create different kind of colours,

0:14:12 > 0:14:16and sometimes they would burn the wood to create those shadows,

0:14:16 > 0:14:18that sense of the shadow, and then they would polish it

0:14:18 > 0:14:21so that the char would stay fixed.

0:14:21 > 0:14:25Look at the armour. Looks like it's shining!

0:14:25 > 0:14:28It's as if he's hung up his armour in that cupboard

0:14:28 > 0:14:31and you've got the trompe l'oeil curtains that enable us to see it.

0:14:31 > 0:14:34How can you make wood shining?

0:14:34 > 0:14:38The skill of that, the spur dangling over the edge.

0:14:39 > 0:14:41I think he planned the rooms as carefully

0:14:41 > 0:14:43as a military campaign.

0:14:43 > 0:14:44Definitely.

0:14:44 > 0:14:49Always in the art created for Federico and his palace,

0:14:49 > 0:14:53you've got the two symbols together - I am a warrior

0:14:53 > 0:14:55but I am also a man of learning.

0:14:55 > 0:14:57There's the books.

0:14:57 > 0:15:01In a sense, the whole Studiolo is kind of a room to reflect

0:15:01 > 0:15:03a man's brain, a man's spirit,

0:15:03 > 0:15:05a man's sense of who he was.

0:15:05 > 0:15:07I've never seen anything like that.

0:15:07 > 0:15:10There isn't really anything else like it in the world.

0:15:17 > 0:15:20The Studiolo was such a feast for the eyes that now

0:15:20 > 0:15:23we need a hearty Le Marche feast for our palates.

0:15:24 > 0:15:28I'm going to make something that Federico probably ate himself,

0:15:28 > 0:15:31and is one of my favourite dishes from the region,

0:15:31 > 0:15:32if not all Italy.

0:15:34 > 0:15:37The classic Le Marche dish of coniglio in porchetta.

0:15:38 > 0:15:40Rabbit in the style of roast pork.

0:15:42 > 0:15:45- Buongiorno! Buongiorno.- Buongiorno.

0:15:45 > 0:15:48TRANSLATION:

0:15:55 > 0:15:57Why does she leave the head on the rabbit?

0:15:57 > 0:15:59The head is the most important thing.

0:15:59 > 0:16:02First of all, because you know that it's a rabbit and not a cat.

0:16:02 > 0:16:04First. ANDREW LAUGHS

0:16:04 > 0:16:08Second, because you can tell the age of the rabbit

0:16:08 > 0:16:10from the size of his teeth.

0:16:10 > 0:16:12You don't want a rabbit that is too old.

0:16:12 > 0:16:15You want a maximum of eight months old, nine months old.

0:16:15 > 0:16:16So you can tell...

0:16:16 > 0:16:19So, the head of the rabbit is like a sell-by date?

0:16:19 > 0:16:23That is...that is exactly what it is.

0:16:23 > 0:16:27Look at the array of meat and how beautiful and well kept.

0:16:27 > 0:16:30You don't only just buy the meat, you buy the knowledge of the person.

0:16:30 > 0:16:32If you decide to buy that piece of meat,

0:16:32 > 0:16:34they'll tell you how to cook it.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38TRANSLATION:

0:16:38 > 0:16:40- Prego.- Grazie.

0:16:41 > 0:16:44And the smile as well, look at the beautiful smile.

0:16:44 > 0:16:46- Un bel sorriso.- Buona giornata.

0:16:46 > 0:16:48- Grazie. Arrivederci. - Arrivederci. Grazie.

0:16:50 > 0:16:53With our rabbit, we're heading down the valley below Urbino.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59We'll be cooking at the historic Le Marche hunting lodge.

0:17:01 > 0:17:04It's the very house where Torquato Tasso,

0:17:04 > 0:17:06the great 16th-century poet,

0:17:06 > 0:17:10wrote beautiful verses in homage to the landscapes of Le Marche.

0:17:11 > 0:17:12Everywhere you go in this part of Italy

0:17:12 > 0:17:15you seem to touch a little piece of history.

0:17:19 > 0:17:22So, Andrew, this recipe fascinates me from the first time I had it.

0:17:22 > 0:17:27My grandad used to actually, you know, raise rabbit.

0:17:28 > 0:17:31And my grandmother used to be like cooking this rabbit.

0:17:31 > 0:17:34It's almost like my signature dish.

0:17:36 > 0:17:38One of the main ingredients, and obviously you know

0:17:38 > 0:17:42in the middle of Italy, is going to be this wild fennel.

0:17:42 > 0:17:43It's lovely. Smell that.

0:17:45 > 0:17:46It's fantastic, isn't it?

0:17:47 > 0:17:51- So, you're creating a kind of broth? - That's right.

0:17:51 > 0:17:55OK, I'm going to put that in cold water with two or three

0:17:55 > 0:17:57cloves of garlic

0:17:57 > 0:18:00and close the whole thing and put it on to boil.

0:18:00 > 0:18:02This is going to be my stock.

0:18:02 > 0:18:05I think we need to cook the rabbit cos it's staring at me, Giorgio.

0:18:05 > 0:18:07Hold on a second.

0:18:07 > 0:18:09The next step is to prepare the rabbit.

0:18:09 > 0:18:14I'm going to cut it in half for you so that you can eat the actual...

0:18:16 > 0:18:19The meat must be really pink and beautiful.

0:18:19 > 0:18:21The fat must be really white.

0:18:21 > 0:18:24- The lady in the butcher's said leave the bone...- Leave the bones in.

0:18:24 > 0:18:26Some people takes all the bones off.

0:18:26 > 0:18:30I feel that if you leave the bones in it, it's so much better.

0:18:30 > 0:18:31I'm ready with that.

0:18:31 > 0:18:32Now I'm going to make the stuffing.

0:18:34 > 0:18:36I'm going to chop the liver.

0:18:37 > 0:18:40The only problem with houses like this is

0:18:40 > 0:18:45they also have historical chopping boards which are never straight.

0:18:47 > 0:18:52'Along with the liver, I add one fresh sausage, raw pancetta

0:18:52 > 0:18:54'and a good dollop of lard.'

0:18:58 > 0:19:00I'm putting all this stuffing in it.

0:19:00 > 0:19:02It will make it really juicy and really cook perfectly.

0:19:04 > 0:19:06I often think we don't eat enough rabbit.

0:19:06 > 0:19:11No. It has bad publicity because the kids looks at them like a pet.

0:19:11 > 0:19:14The rabbit has become this thing that talks to us.

0:19:15 > 0:19:17I blame Richard Adams - Watership Down.

0:19:17 > 0:19:21I tell you what, me and my brother grow up,

0:19:21 > 0:19:24and when we were little, we'd go with my grandad

0:19:24 > 0:19:26and we'd choose the one, the rabbit to kill.

0:19:26 > 0:19:27I think that it teach us

0:19:27 > 0:19:30to appreciate that it wasn't just something that arrived from the shop

0:19:30 > 0:19:32in a packet.

0:19:32 > 0:19:36One of the thing the lady this morning in the shop told me,

0:19:36 > 0:19:41"As you're starting it, just put a little bit of the pancetta

0:19:41 > 0:19:42"on top of it."

0:19:42 > 0:19:48When it start to colour, I will add some of the stock to keep it moist

0:19:48 > 0:19:52- and I will cover it and cook it in the oven, OK?- Hmm.

0:19:52 > 0:19:53So, are you ready to wait two hours now?

0:19:53 > 0:19:55Yeah, I'm ready to wait.

0:19:55 > 0:19:59I'm actually ready to eat it now but if two hours is necessary,

0:19:59 > 0:20:00two hours is necessary.

0:20:04 > 0:20:08As the rabbit cooks, we'll take a passeggiata through the lush

0:20:08 > 0:20:09ground of the hunting lodge.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14When people talk about central Italy,

0:20:14 > 0:20:16they often really mean Tuscany.

0:20:16 > 0:20:19There is so much more to discover in the heart of Italy.

0:20:19 > 0:20:23This undulating landscape on the eastern side of the Apennines

0:20:23 > 0:20:25is truly breathtaking.

0:20:27 > 0:20:30After basting the rabbit with wild fennel broth,

0:20:30 > 0:20:33we are ready to eat our feast.

0:20:33 > 0:20:35Il coniglio in porchetta, Andrew.

0:20:35 > 0:20:37Looking good!

0:20:37 > 0:20:38Whoa.

0:20:39 > 0:20:42What a wonderful, hearty plate of food.

0:20:49 > 0:20:51Bello.

0:20:51 > 0:20:52There you go. That looks good.

0:20:52 > 0:20:54Eh, wait a minute.

0:20:54 > 0:20:57- Ah, I've got some gravy as well. - Yeah.- Looks rich, doesn't it?

0:20:58 > 0:21:02So, what would you recommend, that I take a little bit of rabbit?

0:21:02 > 0:21:05- A little bit of the stuffing. - Dip it round in the gravy.

0:21:05 > 0:21:06That's right.

0:21:12 > 0:21:14Mmm.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17Really good. Really good.

0:21:19 > 0:21:21- What...?- Is it tender?

0:21:21 > 0:21:23It's completely tender, it's not dry.

0:21:23 > 0:21:26I can see how it might be dry but it isn't. Perfect.

0:21:26 > 0:21:30This is like one of my favourite recipe.

0:21:30 > 0:21:32The meat it's closest to that I'm familiar with

0:21:32 > 0:21:35- would have to be chicken, I suppose. - Yes.

0:21:39 > 0:21:41It's got a lovely, delicate taste.

0:21:41 > 0:21:42Yeah, unbelievable.

0:21:43 > 0:21:47- The stuffing with the liver gives it that little kick.- Hmm.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49It's a great flavour there.

0:21:49 > 0:21:52So, what makes this a Marchigiana dish?

0:21:52 > 0:21:56Once upon a time, every household will have 10, 20 rabbits,

0:21:56 > 0:21:57then they just give all the scrapes,

0:21:57 > 0:22:00the vegetable and something like that,

0:22:00 > 0:22:03and that's how they just got their protein through the years.

0:22:03 > 0:22:07I can't believe that from this small rabbit,

0:22:07 > 0:22:08this huge plate of food emerges,

0:22:08 > 0:22:11but that's fairly Marchigiana maybe, you know,

0:22:11 > 0:22:12they make a lot out of a little.

0:22:12 > 0:22:14Like Urbino.

0:22:14 > 0:22:16Little town but it produces Raphael,

0:22:16 > 0:22:18Bramante - the architect of St Peter's.

0:22:18 > 0:22:21I think this is a place that really punches above its weight.

0:22:21 > 0:22:24It's a small place but it produced so many great figures.

0:22:24 > 0:22:26Even in modernity, you know.

0:22:26 > 0:22:27You know who came from Marche?

0:22:27 > 0:22:33Valentino Rossi, the greatest motorbike driver in the entire world!

0:22:33 > 0:22:35I think I just heard him driving past.

0:22:35 > 0:22:37THEY LAUGH

0:22:40 > 0:22:44So far we've seen the sunny, gentle side of Le Marche.

0:22:44 > 0:22:48Now I want to show Andrew the darker side of the region

0:22:48 > 0:22:51and begin our descent to the centre of the Earth.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55There we can get a different perspective

0:22:55 > 0:22:57on what makes Le Marche so special.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01I've never been to this part of Le Marche, Giorgio.

0:23:01 > 0:23:04When people think about Italy and especially, you know,

0:23:04 > 0:23:07not northern Italy with the Alps, they always think about

0:23:07 > 0:23:11these beaches and sea, don't they?

0:23:11 > 0:23:13They never think about the Apennine.

0:23:13 > 0:23:17The Apennine, they really are big mountains, they're really steep.

0:23:17 > 0:23:19Geologically, they're very interesting as well.

0:23:19 > 0:23:22- Are they like the spine of Italy? - That's right.

0:23:23 > 0:23:24So where are you taking me?

0:23:24 > 0:23:27I'm going to take you to Frasassi.

0:23:27 > 0:23:30There's a little surprise for you here.

0:23:30 > 0:23:31They must have a lot of rock falls

0:23:31 > 0:23:35cos they've sort of bound the mountain in wire caging.

0:23:35 > 0:23:40Very porous rocks that allow water to come through.

0:23:40 > 0:23:44This is a road cut through next to the river.

0:23:44 > 0:23:47It's an incredible place. Here we are.

0:23:52 > 0:23:53We're in the middle of nowhere.

0:24:03 > 0:24:05- It's a long tunnel.- Yes.

0:24:05 > 0:24:09You're going to be absolutely gobsmacked when you see this.

0:24:10 > 0:24:12L'Abisso di Ancona, Andrew.

0:24:12 > 0:24:13Here we are.

0:24:13 > 0:24:15Look at the magnificence of this.

0:24:15 > 0:24:17That is something!

0:24:17 > 0:24:21- That is incredible. - It's so big. It's enormous.

0:24:22 > 0:24:25The Abisso di Ancona, or Ancona Abyss,

0:24:25 > 0:24:27lies deep beneath the Frasassi Gorge.

0:24:30 > 0:24:34Discovered by chance in 1971, the abyss is one of the largest

0:24:34 > 0:24:39underground caves in the world at 240m high.

0:24:41 > 0:24:44It's a place that takes us back to a world before history.

0:24:44 > 0:24:48These stalagmites took more than 100,000 years,

0:24:48 > 0:24:51drip by drip, to grow to over 60ft high,

0:24:51 > 0:24:53as tall as Nelson's Column.

0:24:55 > 0:24:58You showed me some massive buildings and things like that.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01Apparently it's as big as the cathedral of Milan.

0:25:01 > 0:25:04- A cathedral made by nature. - That's right.

0:25:04 > 0:25:05I want to take a closer look

0:25:05 > 0:25:08at some of these stalagmites and stalactites.

0:25:08 > 0:25:10- They're beautiful, aren't they? - They really are.

0:25:10 > 0:25:13I don't think I've ever seen such wonderful ones.

0:25:16 > 0:25:20It's really awe-inspiring to be down here looking up.

0:25:20 > 0:25:25You can see why the surrealists called these cave formations

0:25:25 > 0:25:26petrified forests.

0:25:26 > 0:25:28Yes. They look like trees, don't they?

0:25:29 > 0:25:32They look like so many different things.

0:25:32 > 0:25:34That could be made of candle wax.

0:25:34 > 0:25:37That one reminds me of a Chinese pagoda,

0:25:37 > 0:25:40maybe at Kew Gardens or somewhere. It's fantastic.

0:25:41 > 0:25:42Have you see up there?

0:25:42 > 0:25:46There's a shape that looks almost like tripe or something like that.

0:25:48 > 0:25:51You know, Andrew, this was a very humbling experience

0:25:51 > 0:25:53to be inside here.

0:25:53 > 0:25:57Time really is relative when you look at something like that.

0:26:03 > 0:26:07- There's someone coming down there. - Yes. That is the actual way in...

0:26:07 > 0:26:10in which the actually cave was discovered.

0:26:10 > 0:26:13- That's...they abseiled down. - Unbelievable, no?

0:26:14 > 0:26:18They found this hole apparently and it was the size of a football.

0:26:18 > 0:26:21And some really cold air was coming up.

0:26:21 > 0:26:22They drop a stone

0:26:22 > 0:26:24and they thought it was 100 metres

0:26:24 > 0:26:26but then it turned out to be 200 metres high.

0:26:28 > 0:26:29ANDREW SHOUTS

0:26:29 > 0:26:32ANDREW'S VOICE ECHOES

0:26:32 > 0:26:36Imagine if you shouted... You'd know, wouldn't you?

0:26:36 > 0:26:38- They must have thought... - This is a big cave.

0:26:38 > 0:26:41"..I did found something incredible here."

0:26:41 > 0:26:44Like discovering a new planet if you're an astronomer.

0:26:44 > 0:26:46Definitely.

0:26:46 > 0:26:49Must have been such an exhilarating moment.

0:26:50 > 0:26:51Look at the shadow of him.

0:26:53 > 0:26:56We really are in the belly of the Apennines.

0:26:57 > 0:27:02So brilliant, this mountain. It's so beautiful from the outside to ever...

0:27:04 > 0:27:07..hide such a secret for such a long time.

0:27:16 > 0:27:20We haven't crossed the Apennines so much as gone under them,

0:27:20 > 0:27:24and now we've emerged on the other side, we're in Umbria.

0:27:25 > 0:27:29Without a coastline, Umbria is often called 'the green heart of Italy.'

0:27:30 > 0:27:36A landscape of fertile plains dotted with hilltop towns,

0:27:36 > 0:27:39Umbria has a long tradition of men working with nature

0:27:39 > 0:27:41to create some of the best produce in Italy.

0:27:43 > 0:27:46And some of the best paintings in Italy too,

0:27:46 > 0:27:48which is what we're just about to see.

0:27:50 > 0:27:53It's so nice to see these lowlands.

0:27:53 > 0:27:55We're right at the bottom of the valley.

0:27:55 > 0:27:58Each of the village is just up at the top, isn't it?

0:27:58 > 0:28:01We're on our way to Spello,

0:28:01 > 0:28:03which I don't think very many people visit,

0:28:03 > 0:28:07but it contains, for me, one of the great series of fresco paintings

0:28:07 > 0:28:08of the Renaissance

0:28:08 > 0:28:12by an artist called Pinturicchio - the little painter.

0:28:13 > 0:28:15- That's the...- There it is now.

0:28:18 > 0:28:19During the Renaissance,

0:28:19 > 0:28:24powerful local families fought for control of Umbria's fertile land.

0:28:25 > 0:28:28You can still feel that rather troubled past...

0:28:28 > 0:28:29if you know where to look.

0:28:30 > 0:28:33The Baglioni family once controlled Spello,

0:28:33 > 0:28:36and in 1500, they asked Pinturicchio to paint

0:28:36 > 0:28:39the chapel of the Santa Maria Maggiore Church

0:28:39 > 0:28:40and demonstrate to the world,

0:28:40 > 0:28:43through their art, the grip they had on the area.

0:28:46 > 0:28:50It's one of the great things of the Renaissance

0:28:50 > 0:28:54but very few people know about it, very few people

0:28:54 > 0:28:56come and see these paintings.

0:28:56 > 0:28:59They've recently been restored, the colours are singing.

0:28:59 > 0:29:01Look at the gold of the halos,

0:29:01 > 0:29:05the green of the grass, the blue of the sky.

0:29:05 > 0:29:07It's just stunning.

0:29:09 > 0:29:10There are three frescoes,

0:29:10 > 0:29:14each telling a different story from the early life of Christ.

0:29:14 > 0:29:18To bring biblical legend home to his audience, Pinturicchio set

0:29:18 > 0:29:21the action not in the Holy Land but on Umbrian soil.

0:29:23 > 0:29:25Painting less than 50 years after the death

0:29:25 > 0:29:29of Federico da Montefeltro, Pinturicchio clearly knew all about

0:29:29 > 0:29:32the tricks of perspective developed in Urbino.

0:29:33 > 0:29:36This scene, of the young Christ teaching his elders,

0:29:36 > 0:29:41is like Federico's Ideal City, except now it's full of people.

0:29:42 > 0:29:44But Pinturicchio wasn't just a follower,

0:29:44 > 0:29:48he was an innovator in his own right, with his own unique

0:29:48 > 0:29:52sense of colour, grace and heavenly harmony.

0:29:52 > 0:29:54This is the Annunciation.

0:29:54 > 0:29:57Wow, look at that.

0:29:57 > 0:30:01Look at the ray of light coming down to Earth

0:30:01 > 0:30:03with the dove.

0:30:03 > 0:30:06Look at the dove, it's got this... HE WHISTLES

0:30:06 > 0:30:09..like she's whistling, really, to the Madonna.

0:30:09 > 0:30:13That's God impregnating the Virgin Mary.

0:30:14 > 0:30:17And she's going, "Ooh, I can feel it."

0:30:19 > 0:30:22The spirit of the Lord moves within me...

0:30:25 > 0:30:27..and at the same time,

0:30:27 > 0:30:30Gabriel with the lily -

0:30:30 > 0:30:33symbol of the virgin's purity, the white lily.

0:30:34 > 0:30:39That might be one of the most beautiful archangel

0:30:39 > 0:30:42Gabriels in the world.

0:30:43 > 0:30:48It's so delicate, androgynous and beautiful.

0:30:48 > 0:30:50- Look at that.- Look at the wings.

0:30:50 > 0:30:53GIORGIO GASPS Look at the colour on there.

0:30:53 > 0:30:56Like peacock wings.

0:30:56 > 0:30:58It's a feast for the eyes.

0:30:58 > 0:31:01Really a feast. It's just incredible.

0:31:02 > 0:31:05- Here is the man. - Pinturicchio himself.

0:31:05 > 0:31:08Pinturicchio was so proud of this chapel,

0:31:08 > 0:31:12of this sequence of frescoes that he included his own self portrait

0:31:12 > 0:31:14in a gold frame.

0:31:15 > 0:31:16Look at the choir of angels.

0:31:16 > 0:31:19- Angels are beau...- Just beautiful.

0:31:19 > 0:31:22If you ever want to explain to anybody what is the heavenly choir,

0:31:22 > 0:31:25bring them here, that's it.

0:31:25 > 0:31:29That entire group with all its swirling drapery,

0:31:29 > 0:31:32its wonderful symphony of colours,

0:31:32 > 0:31:35all done in a single day of painting.

0:31:35 > 0:31:38That's eight hours, the time it takes for plaster to dry.

0:31:38 > 0:31:41Just doesn't get better than that.

0:31:42 > 0:31:45I think the message of the painting is to say,

0:31:45 > 0:31:49"Jesus Christ has been born again, here, in Umbria."

0:31:49 > 0:31:52The scene of the Nativity is all set in the local landscape

0:31:52 > 0:31:57and these are probably portraits of the local peasantry.

0:31:58 > 0:32:01Although they look so peaceful, so calm, you would imagine

0:32:01 > 0:32:04no violence ever takes place in this world.

0:32:04 > 0:32:06The context for these paintings being commissioned

0:32:06 > 0:32:09was one of extreme violence and conflict.

0:32:09 > 0:32:13And those have got swords, so they must be like, I don't know,

0:32:13 > 0:32:14warriors.

0:32:14 > 0:32:16There's a fight taking place.

0:32:16 > 0:32:18This is the Baglioni Chapel.

0:32:18 > 0:32:22The Baglioni was a local family - very rich, very powerful,

0:32:22 > 0:32:26but they'd just gone through a period of horrible vendetta.

0:32:26 > 0:32:30- Hmm.- Grifonetto Baglioni had actually been to the

0:32:30 > 0:32:35wedding of his cousin Astore to Lavinia Colonna and had used it...

0:32:35 > 0:32:36Because everyone was together.

0:32:36 > 0:32:39..he'd used it to kill the entire family and try to seize control

0:32:39 > 0:32:42of the region. He'd been defeated

0:32:42 > 0:32:45by this man, Troilo, who commissioned

0:32:45 > 0:32:47these beautiful paintings

0:32:47 > 0:32:52from Pinturicchio to celebrate and reaffirm the Baglioni family's grip

0:32:52 > 0:32:54on this territory.

0:32:55 > 0:32:57So, behind these paintings, there's a lot of blood.

0:32:57 > 0:33:01In fact, they called the marriage where Grifonetto killed

0:33:01 > 0:33:05all the guests, they called it "the marriage of blood."

0:33:05 > 0:33:07(Wow.)

0:33:07 > 0:33:12It seems to happen again and again in Italy in so many families.

0:33:12 > 0:33:15Because you have this sort of family control over an area.

0:33:15 > 0:33:17You know, the Medici controlling Florence,

0:33:17 > 0:33:19the Sforza controlling Milan,

0:33:19 > 0:33:22the Baglioni controlling this part of Umbria.

0:33:22 > 0:33:25But Troilo, he looks like a pretty tough character.

0:33:25 > 0:33:28He does, doesn't he? What's that?

0:33:28 > 0:33:30That's somebody hanging up there.

0:33:30 > 0:33:33That is Pinturicchio's way of conveying

0:33:33 > 0:33:34the murders are in the past,

0:33:34 > 0:33:37the blood wedding has been,

0:33:37 > 0:33:42Grifonetto has been executed, justice has been done,

0:33:42 > 0:33:43order has been restored.

0:33:53 > 0:33:56From the skilled artist of Spello to the skilled

0:33:56 > 0:33:58artisan of the valley of Norcia.

0:33:59 > 0:34:02For centuries, people from this valley have been known

0:34:02 > 0:34:07as master pig butchers and makers of delicious pork sausages and salamis.

0:34:09 > 0:34:12Butchers in Italy are still sometimes even called Norcino,

0:34:12 > 0:34:14or the person from Norcia.

0:34:15 > 0:34:17Where are you taking me?

0:34:17 > 0:34:20I'm going to take you to see a real Norcino.

0:34:20 > 0:34:23The guys just breed the animals, kills them

0:34:23 > 0:34:27and turn them into sausages and things like that, and ham.

0:34:27 > 0:34:28A real, traditional one.

0:34:28 > 0:34:31- So this is the real deal? - This is the real deal.

0:34:31 > 0:34:34A fantastic place. The fields and the...

0:34:34 > 0:34:36This is where they grow the lentils

0:34:36 > 0:34:39that they use as a feed for the animals.

0:34:39 > 0:34:42It's beautiful, this Valle di Norcia.

0:34:43 > 0:34:45It looks really fertile.

0:34:45 > 0:34:47I love the colour of the earth.

0:34:47 > 0:34:49I think they've just ploughed the fields.

0:34:52 > 0:34:55I can't leave here without getting some local sausages

0:34:55 > 0:34:59and they are the ingredient of the traditional Umbrian recipe

0:34:59 > 0:35:00I want to make.

0:35:00 > 0:35:03Fresh pork sausages with lentils.

0:35:05 > 0:35:07People have farmed pigs in this majestic valley

0:35:07 > 0:35:10for thousands of years.

0:35:10 > 0:35:13And this farm is one of only a few in Italy

0:35:13 > 0:35:16trying to reintroduce an ancient breed of Umbrian pigs.

0:35:20 > 0:35:23Andrew, you can't even imagine how excited I am to see these pigs.

0:35:23 > 0:35:25I love them.

0:35:25 > 0:35:26Look at them.

0:35:26 > 0:35:28They're just so beautiful.

0:35:28 > 0:35:32This is maiale nero cintato...

0:35:32 > 0:35:35- So the black belted pig... - ..di Nor...

0:35:35 > 0:35:36- ..of Norcia.- ..from Norcia.

0:35:36 > 0:35:38As you can see, the pig is black,

0:35:38 > 0:35:42and he has this belt that goes around the front legs.

0:35:42 > 0:35:46So, that's la cinta. Cinta is this, the belt.

0:35:46 > 0:35:47So our belt.

0:35:47 > 0:35:49They look more to me like...

0:35:49 > 0:35:53almost like a cross between a domesticated pig and a wild boar.

0:35:53 > 0:35:56They are closer to the wild boar than, you know,

0:35:56 > 0:36:00those completely northern European shaved pink pigs

0:36:00 > 0:36:02that we are used to seeing.

0:36:02 > 0:36:04And what makes them so special?

0:36:04 > 0:36:08Why are they so desirable to the Norcino pig butchers?

0:36:08 > 0:36:12You will tell me why they are so desirable when you taste it.

0:36:12 > 0:36:13- That's when you know.- Very simple.

0:36:13 > 0:36:15But the idea of this is that, you know,

0:36:15 > 0:36:19the animal is reared in a very humane way.

0:36:19 > 0:36:21The animal is very happy.

0:36:21 > 0:36:23It's fed lentils,

0:36:23 > 0:36:26which are the by-product of those lands

0:36:26 > 0:36:28that you got here.

0:36:28 > 0:36:32Big ones are in pens and they are opened up on the woods,

0:36:32 > 0:36:34so they are half woods

0:36:34 > 0:36:37and half sort of, you know, open area, like that.

0:36:37 > 0:36:41So they'll eat acorns and nuts and maybe berries even.

0:36:41 > 0:36:42Berries.

0:36:42 > 0:36:45That gives them a fantastic flavour to the meat, you know?

0:36:45 > 0:36:47Plus the animal's moving around.

0:36:47 > 0:36:49I think, what it is is just...

0:36:49 > 0:36:53this relation between this meat and this land.

0:36:53 > 0:36:54And this is, like, you know...

0:36:54 > 0:36:57I wouldn't mind being a pig if I had to grow up here, wouldn't you?

0:36:57 > 0:37:00Yes, if you're going to be a pig, this is a good place to be.

0:37:00 > 0:37:03It's, um... What would pig heaven be called?

0:37:03 > 0:37:04Porkadise!

0:37:04 > 0:37:05Pigtopia!

0:37:07 > 0:37:09Pigtopia. I love that.

0:37:09 > 0:37:11- Well, this is kind of pigtopia. - Pigtopia!

0:37:14 > 0:37:17Next to the farm is the family butcher's store.

0:37:17 > 0:37:20The couple who runs it are known locally as Li Tappi

0:37:20 > 0:37:23or the little corks, as they're both so short.

0:37:24 > 0:37:26Mr Mario is a Norcino,

0:37:26 > 0:37:28and he's going to make some sausage for us.

0:37:28 > 0:37:30He's here with his wife, look!

0:37:30 > 0:37:33By the way, these people have been married for 48 years,

0:37:33 > 0:37:36so making sausages is something that could save your marriage.

0:37:39 > 0:37:42'Mario and Gabriella Salvatori make fresh sausages

0:37:42 > 0:37:44'which people drive from all over Italy to buy.

0:37:45 > 0:37:49'The only ingredients are pork from their farm, salt, pepper,

0:37:49 > 0:37:53'and for every 20 kilos of meat, one clove of garlic,

0:37:53 > 0:37:56'as well as their love and pride.'

0:37:57 > 0:37:59They use prime pieces of the pork,

0:37:59 > 0:38:01Look at the mixture.

0:38:01 > 0:38:03100% of fresh meat.

0:38:03 > 0:38:06This operation, usually, is always made by machine.

0:38:06 > 0:38:12TRANSLATION:

0:38:12 > 0:38:16When they start... When they really start to do that by themselves,

0:38:16 > 0:38:18when they run their business, this is how they would do it.

0:38:18 > 0:38:20Now, a lot of the people do this by machine,

0:38:20 > 0:38:24but, look, now, what we're going to witness now is incredible.

0:38:24 > 0:38:25And what's is the sausage skin made from?

0:38:25 > 0:38:27From the intestine of the pig.

0:38:27 > 0:38:29This looks very easy.

0:38:29 > 0:38:31- Doesn't look very easy...- Look very easy.

0:38:31 > 0:38:34But there is so much rhythm and strength...

0:38:34 > 0:38:36Almost looks like an umbilical cord...

0:38:37 > 0:38:39I love this machine.

0:38:39 > 0:38:41The machine is fabulous, isn't it?

0:38:41 > 0:38:43- Look, she's sewing it up.- She's just doing that...

0:38:43 > 0:38:46But there's a kind of surgical precision about the whole process.

0:38:46 > 0:38:48Unbelievable.

0:38:49 > 0:38:52And, in fact, there is a connection between

0:38:52 > 0:38:53this part of Italy and surgery,

0:38:53 > 0:38:56because the skills of the pork butcher

0:38:56 > 0:38:57were then transplanted

0:38:57 > 0:38:59and the first surgeons came from here

0:38:59 > 0:39:04and there was this man called Cesare Scacchi

0:39:04 > 0:39:06who actually went to the court of Queen Elizabeth

0:39:06 > 0:39:09in 1588, the year of the Armada.

0:39:09 > 0:39:12Yet, I think that their precision and capacity

0:39:12 > 0:39:16to cutting down and go through muscles and understanding fibres

0:39:16 > 0:39:17- and understanding what was...- Yeah!

0:39:17 > 0:39:20- It was then translated into humans. - Yeah.

0:39:20 > 0:39:24I mean, Elizabeth I had a cataract in her eye

0:39:24 > 0:39:26- and that's why she asked... - So they got a guy from...?

0:39:26 > 0:39:29- ..a guy from here, cos they knew how to use a knife.- It's unbelievable.

0:39:31 > 0:39:32Fantastic.

0:39:33 > 0:39:35The manuality is incredible.

0:39:37 > 0:39:40- How many we going to buy, Andrew? - Um... Well, I would say...

0:39:40 > 0:39:43maybe, like, about that many for me.

0:39:43 > 0:39:45No, I'm only kidding. I don't know!

0:39:45 > 0:39:47I don't know. I imagine they're very rich.

0:39:47 > 0:39:49I think to be on the safe side, we buy 10 of them.

0:39:49 > 0:39:51Five for you, five for me.

0:39:51 > 0:39:52That sounds plenty.

0:39:52 > 0:39:54- All right.- Do you think we should buy some...?

0:39:54 > 0:39:55Grazie!

0:39:55 > 0:39:57Un bacio.

0:39:57 > 0:39:59Siete uno spettacolo.

0:39:59 > 0:40:00Grazie!

0:40:00 > 0:40:01Grazie.

0:40:03 > 0:40:05Arrivederci.

0:40:08 > 0:40:10We've got our sausages,

0:40:10 > 0:40:14and to get our lentils, we need to climb up into the mountains

0:40:14 > 0:40:16and the highest village of the Apennines.

0:40:17 > 0:40:21The town of Castelluccio, 4,500 feet above sea level,

0:40:21 > 0:40:24and home to some of the best lentils in the world.

0:40:24 > 0:40:27And as we're driving up, the mists suddenly clear

0:40:27 > 0:40:30and we're given another vision of celestial beauty.

0:40:30 > 0:40:33This time, it's not in a painting.

0:40:33 > 0:40:36I thought you said there was no sea in Umbria?!

0:40:36 > 0:40:38THEY LAUGH

0:40:38 > 0:40:41This is so, so beautiful.

0:40:42 > 0:40:44God...

0:40:44 > 0:40:45I'm speechless, Andrew.

0:40:47 > 0:40:48It's something, isn't it?

0:40:50 > 0:40:52I mean, we have drove all through that,

0:40:52 > 0:40:55and I had no hope that we were going to see the sun today,

0:40:55 > 0:40:57- I really didn't.- I know!

0:40:57 > 0:40:58But look at this!

0:41:00 > 0:41:02You really feel like you're in the Apennines here.

0:41:02 > 0:41:05I mean, if... Well, we're kind of above everything.

0:41:05 > 0:41:07So, our man who makes the sausages,

0:41:07 > 0:41:09he's somewhere down there beneath the sea of fog.

0:41:12 > 0:41:15We're lucky today though, aren't we? I mean, to have this view.

0:41:16 > 0:41:18To actually rise above the clouds.

0:41:19 > 0:41:22The clouds are formed during the night

0:41:22 > 0:41:24until the heat is kind of like...

0:41:24 > 0:41:25melting them off.

0:41:25 > 0:41:27And, so, the last one will be like

0:41:27 > 0:41:30the one who's at the bottom of the valley.

0:41:30 > 0:41:34- It's a beautiful, beautiful day.- It is.- And, er...

0:41:35 > 0:41:36Umbria, Umbria.

0:41:40 > 0:41:43The whole of this road's like a wonderful rollercoaster

0:41:43 > 0:41:45through the natural landscape of Umbria.

0:41:45 > 0:41:47And our destination -

0:41:47 > 0:41:49this fertile valley.

0:41:49 > 0:41:53Here, I am discovering for the first time in my life

0:41:53 > 0:41:56the Piano Grande of Castelluccio.

0:41:56 > 0:41:58The Great Plain of Castelluccio.

0:42:04 > 0:42:07Wow, look at that.

0:42:07 > 0:42:09- This is...- That is something.

0:42:09 > 0:42:11- There's nothing at all...- And that's all lentils.

0:42:14 > 0:42:16It's very special.

0:42:16 > 0:42:17That is Castelluccio!

0:42:17 > 0:42:20- Like a painting! It's beautiful. - Unbelievable.

0:42:20 > 0:42:23It's really unusual to find a lovely city like that

0:42:23 > 0:42:26which is completely in a valley without any upper somethings.

0:42:27 > 0:42:28Look at this strange road.

0:42:28 > 0:42:30You can see that the Romans

0:42:30 > 0:42:31have been here. But, whoa!

0:42:34 > 0:42:36The road to Castelluccio takes you through

0:42:36 > 0:42:38what today is a national park.

0:42:41 > 0:42:44The lentils grown here are known throughout Italy

0:42:44 > 0:42:45as Castelluccio lentils,

0:42:45 > 0:42:47for their unique flavour that comes from

0:42:47 > 0:42:50this majestic land in the clouds.

0:42:51 > 0:42:53I'm excited to prepare this dish

0:42:53 > 0:42:56in the very town that gives the lentils their name.

0:42:59 > 0:43:01Look how beautiful they are. They're so special.

0:43:01 > 0:43:03Look, they haven't got even the same colour.

0:43:03 > 0:43:09What I love is this beautiful pinky, brown, green.

0:43:09 > 0:43:11I mean, all the colours are there.

0:43:12 > 0:43:14'To cook the lentils, I chop some celery,

0:43:14 > 0:43:16'add a few cloves of garlic,

0:43:16 > 0:43:19'and just cover them with fresh mountain water.

0:43:19 > 0:43:21'No stock cubes, no soaking.

0:43:22 > 0:43:28'A simple recipe built on centuries of Umbrian skills and tradition.'

0:43:28 > 0:43:30We're going to have to cook the sausages.

0:43:30 > 0:43:32How many you want?

0:43:32 > 0:43:34Well, what about three for you, three for me

0:43:34 > 0:43:36and one in case somebody wants some more.

0:43:36 > 0:43:39- I love them, the fact that they are not exactly the same size.- Yeah.

0:43:40 > 0:43:43I'm ready. I'm putting the sausages in.

0:43:48 > 0:43:51I'm going to get the colour.

0:43:51 > 0:43:53You know, leaving some nice flavour in there.

0:43:54 > 0:43:57Straight from the land to the table.

0:43:57 > 0:44:00Absolutely. This is really peasant cooking at its best.

0:44:02 > 0:44:04The mud! You know, those beautiful pigs.

0:44:04 > 0:44:08That they have been fed with the leftovers of those...

0:44:08 > 0:44:10- Lentils.- ..lentils.

0:44:10 > 0:44:13It's lovely cooking the meal that comes from the land

0:44:13 > 0:44:16directly above the land.

0:44:16 > 0:44:18It's a great view from here.

0:44:20 > 0:44:22Now I'm going to get them out.

0:44:22 > 0:44:25They're not cooked yet, they're still a bit rare.

0:44:25 > 0:44:27Get the onions, Andrew.

0:44:27 > 0:44:29Put them in there.

0:44:29 > 0:44:31- Just straight in here?- In there, perfect.

0:44:34 > 0:44:36You chopped them very fine.

0:44:36 > 0:44:38You see, it melts straight away.

0:44:39 > 0:44:41This is the passata.

0:44:42 > 0:44:43The home-made one.

0:44:45 > 0:44:46OK, here we are.

0:44:49 > 0:44:52So, you've got gold onions and red tomato sauce.

0:44:52 > 0:44:55You can see already that that's going to taste good.

0:44:55 > 0:44:59The tomato sauce is boiling, sausages are in...

0:45:00 > 0:45:03I am proud of this recipe, because we have managed to produce it

0:45:03 > 0:45:05with the minimum of ingredients.

0:45:05 > 0:45:08Like the real people here would produce it.

0:45:08 > 0:45:11I mean, you could have, could add tonnes of things.

0:45:11 > 0:45:14You can add rosemary, sage, carrots, celery.

0:45:14 > 0:45:17You can add anything, you know...

0:45:17 > 0:45:19I don't think it's going to make it better.

0:45:19 > 0:45:22- No, I agree with you.- I think this is the essential.

0:45:22 > 0:45:23Do you want to taste it?

0:45:31 > 0:45:33Good flavour. Almost like a nut.

0:45:36 > 0:45:38Yeah, yeah, the really nice nutty flavours.

0:45:40 > 0:45:41Scoop them out...

0:45:43 > 0:45:44..and put them in it.

0:45:47 > 0:45:51A tiny little bit of this beautiful Umbrian olive oil...

0:45:52 > 0:45:54..and we are ready.

0:45:54 > 0:45:56OK, here you are.

0:45:56 > 0:45:57So, it's a one-pot meal.

0:45:57 > 0:46:01Well, that's not good enough, it's a one-pot masterpiece.

0:46:03 > 0:46:05- Yeah, it's a masterpiece from this land.- Yeah.

0:46:05 > 0:46:07Not from the cook, this is not the cook.

0:46:07 > 0:46:11- You've stepped back.- This is the land which talk to you. Not the chef.

0:46:11 > 0:46:13- Well...- This is a very important thing.

0:46:13 > 0:46:14I think it takes a really good cook to say that.

0:46:16 > 0:46:18Where we going to eat it? Have we got...?

0:46:18 > 0:46:20- Let's just eat outside...- OK.- ..and take in the view.

0:46:20 > 0:46:21Yeah, let's do that.

0:46:24 > 0:46:26Andrew, guarda.

0:46:27 > 0:46:29TRANSLATION:

0:46:30 > 0:46:32Not bad, hey?

0:46:35 > 0:46:36Siediti.

0:46:38 > 0:46:40Are you ready to taste Umbria?

0:46:40 > 0:46:43- Yeah, I am.- Are you?- Give me some Umbria.

0:46:43 > 0:46:44You've got to prepare yourself.

0:46:46 > 0:46:47Bello!

0:46:53 > 0:46:54Can I have a bit of lentils?

0:46:56 > 0:46:57Is that enough?

0:46:57 > 0:46:59I think to be beginning with, yeah.

0:47:04 > 0:47:06Here we go.

0:47:06 > 0:47:07Look at that.

0:47:08 > 0:47:09Lentils.

0:47:13 > 0:47:14Mm!

0:47:15 > 0:47:17Aren't those sausages fantastic?

0:47:17 > 0:47:19Sometimes less is much better.

0:47:19 > 0:47:22Simplicity delivers a better taste.

0:47:22 > 0:47:24Yeah, what I love about this recipe is it doesn't confuse your mind.

0:47:24 > 0:47:28You're not thinking, "Oh, what's that? Huh? Oo? What's? Oo!

0:47:28 > 0:47:29"What's that? Why's that there?"

0:47:29 > 0:47:33No, you've just got the beautiful meat of the perfectly raised pig.

0:47:33 > 0:47:36The wonderful taste of the lentils, the tomato sauce

0:47:36 > 0:47:37and a kiss of garlic.

0:47:37 > 0:47:39- Perfect.- That's right.

0:47:39 > 0:47:43The lentils really...brings it up, almost, isn't it?

0:47:43 > 0:47:48What I really like is the way the sausage has very little fat.

0:47:48 > 0:47:50It doesn't taste greasy in any way.

0:47:50 > 0:47:54The moisture comes from the lentil, not from the fat.

0:47:56 > 0:47:58- Tastes like it's really good for you.- Hmm.

0:47:59 > 0:48:01I think what is also amazing is that, really,

0:48:01 > 0:48:07these are flavours that really are so representative of Umbria.

0:48:07 > 0:48:10You know, this area, Castelluccio and Norcia.

0:48:10 > 0:48:12How nice is it to eat it here!

0:48:15 > 0:48:17So, that's where the lentils came from.

0:48:17 > 0:48:21All around. They don't only use the flat,

0:48:21 > 0:48:22they use also the sides.

0:48:22 > 0:48:26You can see the agricultural bit goes really right up as well.

0:48:26 > 0:48:29So everything on our plate is from within 10km.

0:48:29 > 0:48:31Amazing!

0:48:31 > 0:48:35It's almost like a divine gift.

0:48:35 > 0:48:39This concentration of goodness that comes to your plates.

0:48:39 > 0:48:42And we better eat quickly, because the storms are coming across.

0:48:42 > 0:48:44It doesn't rhyme, but it's true,

0:48:44 > 0:48:46the rain in Umbria falls mostly on the lentils.

0:48:59 > 0:49:02Umbria is an amazing patchwork of valleys,

0:49:02 > 0:49:04each hiding its own treasures.

0:49:05 > 0:49:07The most famous town in the region

0:49:07 > 0:49:10is the birthplace of St Francis, Assisi.

0:49:13 > 0:49:17Today, this holy town is full of day trippers and pilgrims.

0:49:19 > 0:49:21But we're not stopping at Assisi.

0:49:21 > 0:49:24We're heading off to a little town off the beaten track

0:49:24 > 0:49:25called Montefalco.

0:49:28 > 0:49:32Here, you can get up close to the life of St Francis

0:49:32 > 0:49:34in some beautiful frescoes

0:49:34 > 0:49:36painted by a young Renaissance master.

0:49:42 > 0:49:43I like this kind of place.

0:49:45 > 0:49:47Little church, little town.

0:49:47 > 0:49:52All on our own with some frescoes painted by Benozzo Gozzoli.

0:49:53 > 0:49:58This was his first work as a maestro in his own right

0:49:58 > 0:50:00in the early 1450s.

0:50:00 > 0:50:02This is his debut.

0:50:03 > 0:50:08These are his first ambitious paintings and here in Umbria,

0:50:08 > 0:50:11of course, the subject is the life of...

0:50:11 > 0:50:12Francis.

0:50:12 > 0:50:16Francis of Assisi. And here is the birth.

0:50:16 > 0:50:22Gozzoli has set it in his own time and because Francis was rich,

0:50:22 > 0:50:28he has him being born in a beautiful luxurious 15th-century palazzo.

0:50:29 > 0:50:31They haven't had Venetian blinds yet

0:50:31 > 0:50:35- but there are like blinds but with holes in it.- It's brilliant.

0:50:35 > 0:50:38That nail hanging out between the windows.

0:50:38 > 0:50:39I hadn't seen the nail.

0:50:39 > 0:50:42That actually becomes a device in painting.

0:50:42 > 0:50:45You know, when the painter wants to show off that he can paint shadows,

0:50:45 > 0:50:47he does this trompe l'oeil nail.

0:50:47 > 0:50:50What I love about these is they're almost like little

0:50:50 > 0:50:53photographs of 15th-century life.

0:50:53 > 0:50:56This type of fresco cycle, it's very much the forerunner of cinema,

0:50:56 > 0:51:01cartoons, our way of telling stories one image after another.

0:51:02 > 0:51:07Here, Jesus Christ came to St Francis in a dream and showed him

0:51:07 > 0:51:10a vision of the heavenly city.

0:51:10 > 0:51:12You can imagine Gozzoli scratching his head

0:51:12 > 0:51:15and thinking, "What should the heavenly city look like?

0:51:15 > 0:51:18"What is the most fantastic building I can think of?"

0:51:18 > 0:51:21Where is Gozzoli from? He's from Florence.

0:51:21 > 0:51:24And so, what's he depicted? The Palazzo Signoria.

0:51:24 > 0:51:25The main building of Florence

0:51:25 > 0:51:29with all of the Christian flags flying from it.

0:51:29 > 0:51:32Francis gets the dream wrong and he thinks he's being called

0:51:32 > 0:51:34actually to go on a crusade.

0:51:34 > 0:51:36In fact, he's being called by God

0:51:36 > 0:51:40to rebuild his church, to remake the heavenly city on Earth.

0:51:40 > 0:51:48And for me, this is the most dramatic scene in the whole chapel.

0:51:48 > 0:51:52Beautiful painting of the early Renaissance city.

0:51:52 > 0:51:55What's happening here is that St Francis has

0:51:55 > 0:51:57- renounced his worldly possessions. - Right.

0:51:57 > 0:52:01His father was in the textile trade and was very rich

0:52:01 > 0:52:05and Francis has given away all his clothes, given away all his money.

0:52:05 > 0:52:10His father, furious, is coming with all the things that Francis

0:52:10 > 0:52:12has rejected, all the beautiful textiles and clothes

0:52:12 > 0:52:15and he's about to beat him with his belt

0:52:15 > 0:52:18and, look, there are two children of the family there.

0:52:18 > 0:52:21They've got stones that they are ready to throw at Francis.

0:52:22 > 0:52:26The family is about to get him

0:52:26 > 0:52:28and who comes to his rescue?

0:52:28 > 0:52:30It's the bishop of Assisi.

0:52:30 > 0:52:37I find it slightly sinister because Gozzoli is painting 220 years

0:52:37 > 0:52:41after Francis' death and this is a time when the church very much

0:52:41 > 0:52:46wants to make Francis its own when, in fact, in his own time,

0:52:46 > 0:52:47Francis had been revolutionary

0:52:47 > 0:52:50and had a lot of friction with the church cos he felt the church

0:52:50 > 0:52:53was losing touch with ordinary people and he was very

0:52:53 > 0:52:59critical of the rich bishops living luxuriously and the monks in their

0:52:59 > 0:53:04monasteries eating their fill while the poor people went without food.

0:53:04 > 0:53:07Here we've got, I think it's a sort of strange paradoxical image.

0:53:07 > 0:53:09He's thrown away his rich clothing

0:53:09 > 0:53:14and here the bishop is wrapping him in his cope which is richly

0:53:14 > 0:53:17embroidered, make him more part of the church than he really was.

0:53:19 > 0:53:24Also the father has a really very aggressive stance, isn't it,

0:53:24 > 0:53:25and the face.

0:53:25 > 0:53:28He's absolutely brilliant with faces, I think.

0:53:29 > 0:53:33And the hairstyle, absolutely exceptional.

0:53:33 > 0:53:35He is the master of the golden ringlet.

0:53:35 > 0:53:38I mean, you're dead right about the faces.

0:53:38 > 0:53:41Every single detail of those faces is really carefully painted

0:53:41 > 0:53:44and we know that the time allotted for these paintings

0:53:44 > 0:53:47was, you know, you'd expect maybe a year.

0:53:47 > 0:53:50Gozzoli took two years to paint these pictures.

0:53:50 > 0:53:54And, in fact, he got so late that his patrons in Florence

0:53:54 > 0:53:56began to get impatient.

0:53:56 > 0:53:59They were like, "Where are you, man? Where are you, Benozzo? Come back!"

0:53:59 > 0:54:01There's a wonderful detail over here.

0:54:03 > 0:54:05It's a sort of footnote to the experience

0:54:05 > 0:54:06of looking at the frescoes.

0:54:06 > 0:54:08This is a fantastic thing.

0:54:08 > 0:54:13It's a letter from Benozzo to a friend in Florence.

0:54:13 > 0:54:15It's, I suppose, the 15th-century equivalent

0:54:15 > 0:54:17of a hastily dashed off e-mail,

0:54:17 > 0:54:21and he's writing in 1452 to say,

0:54:21 > 0:54:23"I'm really sorry. I know

0:54:23 > 0:54:25"I said I'd come to see you, I know I'd come to visit.

0:54:25 > 0:54:28"I think there's probably a commission involved

0:54:28 > 0:54:30"but I can't because I'm still stuck here in Montefalco

0:54:30 > 0:54:32"painting my frescoes."

0:54:32 > 0:54:35So ancient and so modern.

0:54:35 > 0:54:38- We still write like that to people, don't we, sometimes?- Yeah!

0:54:38 > 0:54:43When we want to be really proper, we do write something like that.

0:54:43 > 0:54:44Yeah.

0:54:44 > 0:54:47On the paper with your name on it and the date.

0:54:47 > 0:54:49Incredible.

0:54:50 > 0:54:52- Beautiful thing.- Yeah.

0:54:52 > 0:54:55Well, it took him two years to paint these frescoes

0:54:55 > 0:54:59so this poor chap was obviously kept waiting quite some time.

0:54:59 > 0:55:01Andiamo.

0:55:07 > 0:55:11Andrew has shown me the Renaissance masterpieces of Umbria.

0:55:12 > 0:55:14We are at the end of our journey

0:55:14 > 0:55:18and we cannot leave this beautiful region without me showing him

0:55:18 > 0:55:22what I think is Umbria's greatest natural masterpiece.

0:55:22 > 0:55:27A spectacle forged by human hands and the power of nature.

0:55:29 > 0:55:32The Waterfall of Marmore.

0:55:32 > 0:55:34The Cascatta delle Marmore.

0:55:36 > 0:55:38Fantastic, hey?

0:55:38 > 0:55:39And you know what?

0:55:39 > 0:55:42That's man-made. By the Romans.

0:55:42 > 0:55:44Amazing.

0:55:47 > 0:55:51The waterfall is said to be the highest man-made

0:55:51 > 0:55:52waterfall in the world.

0:55:53 > 0:55:59At 165m high, it was created by an entire Roman legion diverting

0:55:59 > 0:56:01a river to get rid of malaria.

0:56:05 > 0:56:07I love this cloud of mist.

0:56:09 > 0:56:13During the 19th century and 18th century, English Romantics...

0:56:13 > 0:56:15That's right.

0:56:15 > 0:56:17This was one of the places the Grand Tour...

0:56:17 > 0:56:20Byron used to come here.

0:56:20 > 0:56:22He said, "Horribly beautiful."

0:56:22 > 0:56:25- Horribly beautiful. - Horribly beautiful.

0:56:25 > 0:56:28This was the epitome of the sublime.

0:56:29 > 0:56:32Something in nature that makes you feel scared.

0:56:34 > 0:56:37The waterfall today is regulated by a dam

0:56:37 > 0:56:40and only runs at half the power it did when Byron saw it.

0:56:45 > 0:56:49Around one million litres of water pour through the waterfall

0:56:49 > 0:56:52every minute creating its own torrent of air.

0:56:56 > 0:57:00It's a powerful symbol of Umbria itself, a place where man has

0:57:00 > 0:57:04worked with the forces of nature for thousands of years and continues

0:57:04 > 0:57:06to do so.

0:57:06 > 0:57:10A tradition flowing from the past on into the future.

0:57:14 > 0:57:18So I think we've travelled thousand of kilometres through Le Marche

0:57:18 > 0:57:21and Umbria, huge territory.

0:57:21 > 0:57:24- Beautiful territory.- Beautiful.

0:57:24 > 0:57:27I'm trying to think what my favourite things have been.

0:57:27 > 0:57:30I loved the coniglio in porchetta that you made,

0:57:30 > 0:57:33the rabbit - that was just so delicious.

0:57:33 > 0:57:35Also I loved those Pinturicchio paintings.

0:57:35 > 0:57:38They were beautiful. Just restored like that,

0:57:38 > 0:57:42they were absolutely live and vibrant. So nice.

0:57:42 > 0:57:45But the thing that shocked me more, Andrew,

0:57:45 > 0:57:47was that Altopiano di Castelluccio.

0:57:47 > 0:57:49That was like being in another world.

0:57:49 > 0:57:52I never knew that in Italy there was a place like that.

0:57:52 > 0:57:54It was so beautiful.

0:57:54 > 0:57:57It was. It was like being on top of the world.

0:57:57 > 0:57:59But now it's onward and upwards

0:57:59 > 0:58:03because we are on our way to the Veneto,

0:58:03 > 0:58:06but not the familiar Veneto of Venezia because we're not

0:58:06 > 0:58:08even going to go to Venice, right?

0:58:08 > 0:58:11No Venice at all. We are going to go to Padova, we are

0:58:11 > 0:58:14going to go to Vicenza, and then the best, Andrew,

0:58:14 > 0:58:17is going to be that we are going to go right up,

0:58:17 > 0:58:20right up to the Dolomites,

0:58:20 > 0:58:23which are these rocks that look back to Italy and

0:58:23 > 0:58:26you're not going to believe what you are going to see, I'm telling you.

0:58:26 > 0:58:28Andiamo!