Comfort Cooking

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0:00:03 > 0:00:05Sometimes there's no place like home

0:00:05 > 0:00:08and few things are more comforting and delicious

0:00:08 > 0:00:09than real home cooking.

0:00:09 > 0:00:13Living in this beautiful country with great produce

0:00:13 > 0:00:17right on our doorstep, we really are spoilt for choice.

0:00:17 > 0:00:20So in this series I'm inviting you into my kitchen

0:00:20 > 0:00:23to share with you some of my tasty, home-cooked treats.

0:00:24 > 0:00:28The dishes I turn to, whether entertaining friends and family,

0:00:28 > 0:00:30or just relaxing on my own.

0:00:49 > 0:00:52Home for me is the beautiful Hampshire countryside.

0:00:55 > 0:00:57I've lived here for over a decade

0:00:57 > 0:00:59but when it comes to comfort food

0:00:59 > 0:01:02my tastes have been shaped by the many places I've lived

0:01:02 > 0:01:04and the people I've known.

0:01:04 > 0:01:08I suppose I was quite fortunate as a kid to be brought up on a farm

0:01:08 > 0:01:10and it was there when I was first introduced to the words

0:01:10 > 0:01:14"comfort cooking". It's winter warming food, it's indulgent.

0:01:14 > 0:01:16It's food that my mother used to cook.

0:01:16 > 0:01:18It's rich in cream, it's rich in butter.

0:01:18 > 0:01:20It's just proper grub, innit?

0:01:22 > 0:01:25I'll be sharing some of my favourite recipes with you.

0:01:25 > 0:01:27Wholesome and hearty...

0:01:27 > 0:01:30filling and enriching...

0:01:30 > 0:01:33It's reassuring and rustic home cooking

0:01:33 > 0:01:35made with top quality ingredients

0:01:35 > 0:01:37from suppliers right on my home turf.

0:01:41 > 0:01:46We'll revisit a dish that has to be the UK's original comfort food.

0:01:46 > 0:01:49I love suet crust. It's so melty and gorgeous.

0:01:51 > 0:01:54But first I'm going to start off with a simple and quick recipe

0:01:54 > 0:01:57that instantly puts a smile on my face...

0:01:58 > 0:02:00..omelette Arnold Bennett.

0:02:00 > 0:02:05It's a timeless classic that can't fail to put you in a good mood.

0:02:05 > 0:02:09Rich and creamy and super tasty.

0:02:09 > 0:02:12The basis of an omelette Arnold Bennett is what we've got here,

0:02:12 > 0:02:16smoked haddock - not that bright, yellow dyed stuff.

0:02:16 > 0:02:19A much better flavour, much better smell,

0:02:19 > 0:02:21and much, much better taste.

0:02:21 > 0:02:23We start off by poaching this.

0:02:23 > 0:02:27This is a classic omelette that's been around for such a long time.

0:02:27 > 0:02:30It was invented at The Savoy...

0:02:30 > 0:02:33for a writer, a guy called Arnold Bennett.

0:02:33 > 0:02:36It's actually been at The Savoy, on the menu at The Savoy, ever since.

0:02:36 > 0:02:42The haddock gets poached in milk, a little bit of bay leaf

0:02:42 > 0:02:43and some peppercorns.

0:02:44 > 0:02:47We just poach this gently for about five minutes.

0:02:47 > 0:02:49It's actually quite funny, smoked haddock,

0:02:49 > 0:02:53it's one of the only dishes that I actually watched my grandad cook.

0:02:53 > 0:02:56My grandmother was a huge influence on me

0:02:56 > 0:02:58when I was training to be a young chef.

0:02:58 > 0:03:01Only when I was about five or six did I wander into the kitchen

0:03:01 > 0:03:03and watch my grandmother cook.

0:03:03 > 0:03:06Smoked haddock was the only thing that my grandad was allowed to cook

0:03:06 > 0:03:09and he cooked it exactly the same way as this.

0:03:09 > 0:03:11That was all he was allowed to do, mind!

0:03:13 > 0:03:16You need to be careful not to leave the fish in too long

0:03:16 > 0:03:20because once it's out, the residual heat will keep it cooking.

0:03:21 > 0:03:23Now for the omelette.

0:03:23 > 0:03:26It's got to be a real tummy filler.

0:03:26 > 0:03:30I'm using not one, not two but four whole eggs.

0:03:30 > 0:03:33It doesn't need milk, just salt and pepper.

0:03:38 > 0:03:41Just draw it to the centre of the pan.

0:03:45 > 0:03:47Then we just allow it to set, just on the base.

0:03:50 > 0:03:54Meanwhile, I can just flake up the smoked haddock like that.

0:03:56 > 0:03:58It breaks up so easily when it's fresh like this.

0:04:00 > 0:04:02We can simply just...

0:04:03 > 0:04:05fold this over.

0:04:05 > 0:04:08The best thing about home cooking is it doesn't have to be perfect.

0:04:08 > 0:04:12When I'm off duty the rustic look rules.

0:04:12 > 0:04:17You can finish this off with the rest of the haddock

0:04:17 > 0:04:19over the top.

0:04:19 > 0:04:21Really, the whole key to this dish is the sauce

0:04:21 > 0:04:24and the poaching liquor that we've got here.

0:04:26 > 0:04:29Knock together a simple, quick roux with butter

0:04:29 > 0:04:31and flour, then add the liquor.

0:04:34 > 0:04:36A quick tip, if you don't want lumpy roux,

0:04:36 > 0:04:38get rid of this, use this.

0:04:40 > 0:04:43This should be a nice sauce consistency.

0:04:43 > 0:04:47Often when people are doing white sauces they get a bit carried

0:04:47 > 0:04:49away with the flour

0:04:49 > 0:04:53and you end up with a sauce that you can hang wallpaper from.

0:04:53 > 0:04:56Right at the end of this sauce,

0:04:56 > 0:04:57another knob of butter.

0:05:00 > 0:05:01We can then season this.

0:05:04 > 0:05:08Then all we do now is take the sauce, pour it over the top.

0:05:11 > 0:05:13For an added dose of indulgence,

0:05:13 > 0:05:16hit it with a generous sprinkling of cheese.

0:05:16 > 0:05:18I'm using a mature Cheddar

0:05:18 > 0:05:22but any cheese will do as long as it's a good melter.

0:05:25 > 0:05:26Two minutes under the grill

0:05:26 > 0:05:29and my omelette Arnold Bennett is good to go.

0:05:29 > 0:05:32There you have it - simple, quick and full of flavour.

0:05:39 > 0:05:42If Mr Arnold Bennett is up there somewhere,

0:05:42 > 0:05:45chatting to my grandad on how to cook smoked haddock...

0:05:47 > 0:05:49I do apologise, I've never read his book...

0:05:50 > 0:05:53..but his omelettes are pretty good.

0:05:54 > 0:05:57Simple dishes like this rely on using fantastic ingredients.

0:06:00 > 0:06:04Here in Hampshire I'm exceptionally lucky because I have great, fresh,

0:06:04 > 0:06:08award-winning veg, fruit and meat available right on my own doorstep.

0:06:08 > 0:06:13Only an hour down the road from me on the Sussex and Hampshire coast,

0:06:13 > 0:06:18Colin Hedley and Jesse Clay are producing some of the best beef in Britain.

0:06:18 > 0:06:20As part of a farming co-operative

0:06:20 > 0:06:22and supported by conservation groups,

0:06:22 > 0:06:26they're grazing their cattle on local marshes.

0:06:26 > 0:06:30Salt marsh is particularly good for finishing the cattle through the year

0:06:30 > 0:06:33because there's so many different species of grass in the sward -

0:06:33 > 0:06:37and wild flowers - and they do very well on it.

0:06:39 > 0:06:41It's not only good for them.

0:06:41 > 0:06:44The grazing cattle are beneficial to nesting wading birds,

0:06:44 > 0:06:47helping to secure this vital habitat.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50The reason that we like the cattle in those areas is because

0:06:50 > 0:06:54if they weren't grazed they would keep growing and go to scrub.

0:06:54 > 0:06:57The cattle graze it down to this sort of height,

0:06:57 > 0:07:01which just provides enough cover for the birds to nest

0:07:01 > 0:07:06but doesn't allow too much cover to encourage predators.

0:07:07 > 0:07:09Jesse farms Aberdeen Angus crosses

0:07:09 > 0:07:12and, like all cattle raised on the marshes,

0:07:12 > 0:07:14they're allowed to mature slowly and naturally.

0:07:14 > 0:07:19It may be 24 months, it may not be for 36 months.

0:07:19 > 0:07:23That way we feel that the animal grows at its own pace.

0:07:23 > 0:07:25The meat is much finer

0:07:25 > 0:07:28and the fat carries a much better flavour that way,

0:07:28 > 0:07:33rather than being fed barley or corn of some sort

0:07:33 > 0:07:37and finished at 15, 16, 17 months old.

0:07:41 > 0:07:42Nothing is rushed here.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45It's all about producing premium beef.

0:07:46 > 0:07:50As the co-operative director, Colin, explains

0:07:50 > 0:07:53the care and time taken to rear the cattle is mirrored

0:07:53 > 0:07:56once they've left the field.

0:07:56 > 0:08:00This animal has been hung for three, coming up for four weeks

0:08:00 > 0:08:02and so we want that dark colour,

0:08:02 > 0:08:05which, some people who don't know their beef are a bit turned off by

0:08:05 > 0:08:08but actually for the people that are really interested

0:08:08 > 0:08:11in good quality meat, that's what they're looking for, too.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13It's a darker product because it's been hung.

0:08:13 > 0:08:17You can see the marbling through the meat, as well.

0:08:17 > 0:08:20That really adds to the eating quality of the meat.

0:08:24 > 0:08:27Beef like this is guaranteed to be packed with flavour

0:08:27 > 0:08:30and, in my book, the taste can't be matched.

0:08:30 > 0:08:32It's the perfect comfort food.

0:08:34 > 0:08:37The co-operative allows nature to take its course

0:08:37 > 0:08:40and in doing so produces something really special.

0:08:42 > 0:08:45What we're looking to do is produce beef that tastes great

0:08:45 > 0:08:48in a way that helps the environment

0:08:48 > 0:08:52and in a way that's been done for generations.

0:09:05 > 0:09:10I think it's great when you know the journey your food makes from field to fork.

0:09:10 > 0:09:13I've invited Jesse Clay along to my house to see what I'm going to do

0:09:13 > 0:09:15with some of his excellent produce.

0:09:15 > 0:09:17Do you cook much at home?

0:09:17 > 0:09:20Somebody tells me you're a better farmer than you are a cook.

0:09:20 > 0:09:23- Who told you that? - I have my sources, you know.

0:09:23 > 0:09:25- It's not far away down the road. - Definitely, no.

0:09:27 > 0:09:30I'm going to make him a classic beef pie.

0:09:32 > 0:09:36A dish that's guaranteed to brighten even the most miserable day.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40I'm jazzing it up with a bit of mustard

0:09:40 > 0:09:42and topping it off with a puff pastry lid.

0:09:44 > 0:09:46It utilises this wonderful meat that you produce

0:09:46 > 0:09:49but also a cut that people don't use normally, the skirt.

0:09:49 > 0:09:51You either cook it very, very quickly,

0:09:51 > 0:09:53- or very slowly, with a cut of meat like this.- Right.

0:09:53 > 0:09:57If you cook it too in-between it becomes tough

0:09:57 > 0:09:58and almost eating your shoe.

0:09:58 > 0:10:01The French like it, they just take this and let it warm up.

0:10:01 > 0:10:03They take their hooves off the animal and...

0:10:03 > 0:10:06I used to work in France and they used to say,

0:10:06 > 0:10:08the steak used to walk through the kitchen...

0:10:08 > 0:10:11- That's it done!- ..allow it to get to get to 30 degrees and then serve it.

0:10:11 > 0:10:14That was it, really. It is lovely.

0:10:16 > 0:10:18Then just a small amount of flour.

0:10:18 > 0:10:23This is really the key to making stews and pies, is this next bit.

0:10:23 > 0:10:24Not too much flour.

0:10:24 > 0:10:29If you add too much it just thickens it up way, way too much.

0:10:29 > 0:10:31Nice hot pan.

0:10:31 > 0:10:32A little bit of oil.

0:10:32 > 0:10:36Seal off the meat, get it really, really hot.

0:10:36 > 0:10:37Why such big chunks?

0:10:37 > 0:10:41To me, really, it's the kind of thing that my mother used to do.

0:10:41 > 0:10:44It was all to do with decent sort of chunks.

0:10:44 > 0:10:46Even the carrot, you top and tail it and throw it in.

0:10:46 > 0:10:48That's how it is.

0:10:48 > 0:10:50This is where you get the colour on the beef stew.

0:10:50 > 0:10:54Whether you're doing a beef stew, a beef pie, it's this bit.

0:10:54 > 0:10:56Often too many people cut the meat too small,

0:10:56 > 0:10:59put too much in the pan and it ends up sweating.

0:10:59 > 0:11:02That's where you've got to get the pan really, really hot

0:11:02 > 0:11:04and you can see you have the colour on the piece of meat,

0:11:04 > 0:11:06which we've got in there.

0:11:06 > 0:11:08Then we can start to add other things.

0:11:08 > 0:11:11We've got some grain mustard.

0:11:11 > 0:11:14- I don't know whether you are a fan of mustard.- Er, Dijon.

0:11:14 > 0:11:17You've got grained, is that all right?

0:11:18 > 0:11:19Oh, horseradish?

0:11:19 > 0:11:21Horseradish is banned, this is my house!

0:11:21 > 0:11:24Horseradish is the food of the devil.

0:11:24 > 0:11:28Don't you watch a certain Saturday morning show?

0:11:28 > 0:11:29It's disgusting.

0:11:31 > 0:11:34You don't need much to accompany meat this good.

0:11:34 > 0:11:37Just some good quality vino, beef stock...

0:11:40 > 0:11:42Onions.

0:11:44 > 0:11:46Carrots, a sprig of thyme and seasoning.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49Then it just needs patience.

0:11:49 > 0:11:52Gently simmer it for a couple of hours.

0:11:52 > 0:11:56Luckily for you, I've got one that I've got over here.

0:11:57 > 0:12:00Now allow it to cool down.

0:12:00 > 0:12:01And now for the lid.

0:12:01 > 0:12:06I'm using some home-made rough puff pastry.

0:12:06 > 0:12:10- My grandmother's rolling pin. - Really?- Yeah, look at that.

0:12:10 > 0:12:13That's where she hit me the first time.

0:12:13 > 0:12:14JESSE LAUGHS

0:12:14 > 0:12:17Old rolling pins to me are just, I don't know,

0:12:17 > 0:12:19it's one of these things that I always buy.

0:12:19 > 0:12:22Whenever I go to an antiques shop, you get an old rolling pin.

0:12:22 > 0:12:24There's something about them.

0:12:24 > 0:12:26Surely, if you've got one, you've got enough.

0:12:26 > 0:12:28I've got loads of them, look. There's another one in here.

0:12:28 > 0:12:30There's that one. How weird is that?

0:12:30 > 0:12:35You can't actually roll that one out flat, I don't know what the hell you do with that one.

0:12:35 > 0:12:38I just like 'em, you know. I need to get out more, obviously.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41When you're doing puff pastry, less flour

0:12:41 > 0:12:44because it toughens up the pastry.

0:12:48 > 0:12:50If I was back in the restaurant I would get my chefs

0:12:50 > 0:12:52to do this all a bit fancy

0:12:52 > 0:12:55but you're at my place,

0:12:55 > 0:12:57so that's about as fancy as you are going to get it, Jesse.

0:12:58 > 0:13:02Glaze with a couple of egg yolks and be generous,

0:13:02 > 0:13:06it will give the finished dish a beautiful sheen.

0:13:06 > 0:13:09I think comfort food should look as good as it tastes.

0:13:09 > 0:13:13It needs to go into a hot oven for half an hour.

0:13:19 > 0:13:21Rustic pie.

0:13:21 > 0:13:22You've got beans with that, as well.

0:13:22 > 0:13:25Do you want to eat it out of the pot?

0:13:25 > 0:13:27I suppose I better plate it.

0:13:27 > 0:13:30You've made the effort to come 15 miles and all that, you know.

0:13:33 > 0:13:36Then a good dollop of the pie.

0:13:40 > 0:13:42Dig around for your chunks of your beef, as well.

0:13:44 > 0:13:46We'll dive into that.

0:13:53 > 0:13:55- That's lovely. - It's pretty good that, isn't it?

0:13:57 > 0:13:59Before you say it, it doesn't need horseradish.

0:13:59 > 0:14:00HE CHUCKLES

0:14:00 > 0:14:04It's amazing how it just falls apart.

0:14:04 > 0:14:06It's all to do with the quality of the cook.

0:14:08 > 0:14:10And the beef!

0:14:10 > 0:14:13It's really good, that.

0:14:13 > 0:14:15I think the flavour's deeper.

0:14:17 > 0:14:19It's deeper and more mature, more rich.

0:14:19 > 0:14:20It's not far off being gamey.

0:14:20 > 0:14:24- Yeah.- Do you know what I mean? It's not far off like that.

0:14:24 > 0:14:26- Well, cheers. Best of luck with everything.- Thank you very much.

0:14:26 > 0:14:29I suppose I better wash up now, hadn't I, really?

0:14:30 > 0:14:33- I'll do it for you. - Yeah, right!

0:14:33 > 0:14:34Enjoy.

0:14:37 > 0:14:41So there you have it - my simple, warm and tasty beef and mustard pie.

0:14:41 > 0:14:44Perfect to cheer you up on a winter's evening.

0:14:47 > 0:14:50Many of the comfort foods we know and love today

0:14:50 > 0:14:53have evolved from the ingenious and often sophisticated recipes

0:14:53 > 0:14:57our ancestors developed to keep their own shivers at bay.

0:14:58 > 0:15:01Annie Gray runs workshops on Victorian cooking

0:15:01 > 0:15:04at Essex stately home Audley End

0:15:04 > 0:15:07where she's going to cook an original recipe

0:15:07 > 0:15:11for a classic pud that's stood the test of time.

0:15:11 > 0:15:16I think the ultimate in comfort food is really a suet crust pudding.

0:15:16 > 0:15:19It's been unfairly demonised today, nobody really eats them any more,

0:15:19 > 0:15:21they think they're lardy and horrible.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24If you go back 100 years, or even 50 years,

0:15:24 > 0:15:27I suspect your mothers and grandmothers were probably cooking them and loving them.

0:15:28 > 0:15:31The heyday of the suet pudding was the Victorian era

0:15:31 > 0:15:35when it was a cheap, filling staple, eaten at least once a week.

0:15:35 > 0:15:37I am going to use a book by Eliza Acton

0:15:37 > 0:15:40called Modern Cookery And All Its Branches,

0:15:40 > 0:15:43which was the source for a lot of Mrs Beeton's recipes.

0:15:43 > 0:15:46What we are going to do today is a steak and oyster pudding.

0:15:46 > 0:15:50It uses suet, flour and water and salt in the crust

0:15:50 > 0:15:52and then steak and oysters

0:15:52 > 0:15:55and a little bit of mushroom ketchup inside, as well.

0:15:55 > 0:15:57Absolutely lovely.

0:15:57 > 0:16:00Suet puddings are a British creation dating back to Medieval times.

0:16:00 > 0:16:04Initially meat-based, sweet suet puddings

0:16:04 > 0:16:07started to appear in the 17th century.

0:16:07 > 0:16:11Suet is the fat that sits around the kidneys on most animals.

0:16:11 > 0:16:13This one is pig suet.

0:16:13 > 0:16:15Really, really, high in energy, as well.

0:16:15 > 0:16:18Arctic explorers used to take suet with them

0:16:18 > 0:16:22because it's one of the quickest ways you can get calories and stay warm.

0:16:22 > 0:16:26It's one of the reasons it makes such good comfort food.

0:16:26 > 0:16:29All those calories are also the reason why suet puddings have

0:16:29 > 0:16:32fallen out of favour over the last 50 years.

0:16:32 > 0:16:34The Victorians valued good food and cooking,

0:16:34 > 0:16:37which is why most middle-class households

0:16:37 > 0:16:40would scrape together the money to employ a cook.

0:16:40 > 0:16:43With the pastry done, Annie's moving to the filling,

0:16:43 > 0:16:45starting with the oysters.

0:16:47 > 0:16:50They're very expensive in modern-day Britain but in the Victorian period

0:16:50 > 0:16:53they were as cheap as chips or possibly even cheaper

0:16:53 > 0:16:56and very much food for the poor.

0:16:56 > 0:16:57OYSTER POPS

0:16:57 > 0:16:59Don't try this with a normal knife!

0:17:01 > 0:17:03The Victorians would keep the shells.

0:17:03 > 0:17:05They could sell them or if there was a farm, they would

0:17:05 > 0:17:08just be given to the farm and they'd be used as a fertiliser.

0:17:08 > 0:17:11A Victorian cook would always be paid a salary.

0:17:11 > 0:17:13She'd have full board and lodging

0:17:13 > 0:17:15but she'd also have a series of cook's perks.

0:17:15 > 0:17:19Those perks were things like the right to sell rabbit skins,

0:17:19 > 0:17:22the right to sell dripping at the back door, selling leftovers

0:17:22 > 0:17:24and selling anything that came out of the kitchen

0:17:24 > 0:17:26that would be regarded as waste.

0:17:26 > 0:17:30The shells could be part of the cook's perks.

0:17:30 > 0:17:33In Victorian times, native oysters were plentiful

0:17:33 > 0:17:37so using them to bulk out a meat pudding was a thrifty measure.

0:17:37 > 0:17:41What I'm going to do next is cover the top with a pudding cloth.

0:17:41 > 0:17:45The final stage is to tie the cloth onto the basin and then

0:17:45 > 0:17:48place it in a pan of water so it can be steamed for two hours.

0:17:48 > 0:17:52Everything inside the basin's cooking really, really slowly

0:17:52 > 0:17:58so you'll end up with a really tender, beautiful, succulent meat

0:18:00 > 0:18:03I love suet crust. It's so melty and gorgeous.

0:18:09 > 0:18:10Oh...

0:18:10 > 0:18:13The best thing about it is the next day you can stick it in the oven

0:18:13 > 0:18:14and make it crispy and amazing

0:18:14 > 0:18:17so it's like two pies for the price of one.

0:18:21 > 0:18:24Home is one place you can really indulge your own tastes.

0:18:24 > 0:18:29It's not about putting on a show, it's about cooking the food you love.

0:18:29 > 0:18:32One of my all-time favourite comfort foods,

0:18:32 > 0:18:35and one I return to again and again, is chicken fricassee.

0:18:39 > 0:18:42Juicy chicken in a creamy, rich sauce

0:18:42 > 0:18:45with beautiful fluffy mashed potato.

0:18:45 > 0:18:46Unbeatable!

0:18:46 > 0:18:49Now a classic fricassee can be done with either chicken or veal.

0:18:49 > 0:18:54The basis of it is a white stew and we start off using this.

0:18:54 > 0:18:57This is just some bought-in stock which is fantastic, this.

0:18:58 > 0:19:01A good quality white wine.

0:19:01 > 0:19:04This is a nice little bit of French white

0:19:04 > 0:19:08and I'm going to add some button onions, they're going to go in.

0:19:08 > 0:19:11We start to get the flavours of this happening with some fresh thyme,

0:19:11 > 0:19:15just a few sprigs of fresh thyme. Nothing too fancy,

0:19:15 > 0:19:17you just throw it all in.

0:19:17 > 0:19:20We basically bring this to the boil. Now on with the chicken.

0:19:20 > 0:19:23Really good quality, free-range chicken, really, for this one.

0:19:23 > 0:19:26There is a simple way of doing it, first of all. Take the legs off.

0:19:26 > 0:19:29You just make an incision either side, turn it over

0:19:29 > 0:19:32and then this is the bad bit.

0:19:32 > 0:19:33Break its legs, that way.

0:19:33 > 0:19:36As you break its legs, there's a little muscle in there

0:19:36 > 0:19:39which is called a little oyster, or the chef's eye,

0:19:39 > 0:19:41which is the best part of the chicken.

0:19:41 > 0:19:44What you do is you just cut through there

0:19:44 > 0:19:47and this little oyster comes off in the leg.

0:19:50 > 0:19:53Of course, you could always buy chicken pieces but you're

0:19:53 > 0:19:56better off doing it yourself, or getting your butcher to do it.

0:19:56 > 0:19:59Because that way you get to keep the carcass,

0:19:59 > 0:20:01which brings important flavour to the dish.

0:20:07 > 0:20:10Add mushrooms and let it simmer for half an hour.

0:20:10 > 0:20:14Now one of the ultimate comfort foods has to be mashed potato

0:20:14 > 0:20:18and I've got some potatoes cooking away nicely.

0:20:18 > 0:20:21It's the perfect accompaniment to go with this, to be honest.

0:20:21 > 0:20:24What we do is put them back into the pan.

0:20:25 > 0:20:28Just allow them to dry out a little bit.

0:20:28 > 0:20:29Back into the colander...

0:20:32 > 0:20:33..like that.

0:20:33 > 0:20:36Then we're going to make a really good mashed potato

0:20:36 > 0:20:39and, for that, this is the tool,

0:20:39 > 0:20:41A potato ricer.

0:20:41 > 0:20:42This is a bit industrial.

0:20:42 > 0:20:44I'm not very good, to be honest, on the Internet

0:20:44 > 0:20:46and when I ordered this I asked for a small one.

0:20:46 > 0:20:49It was a catering supplier so I got a massive one.

0:20:49 > 0:20:54What we do is tip the potatoes into your little ricer,

0:20:54 > 0:20:56or large ricer.

0:21:00 > 0:21:02And it's best to do this while it's still warm

0:21:02 > 0:21:05because this way you get this lovely, fluffy mash.

0:21:10 > 0:21:15I mean, this is really one dish where less certainly isn't more.

0:21:15 > 0:21:19Cream and butter in potatoes is a match made in heaven.

0:21:19 > 0:21:21It's the ultimate comfort food.

0:21:21 > 0:21:24Let's face it, comfort food is all about treating yourself.

0:21:24 > 0:21:27Rich, full of flavour...

0:21:30 > 0:21:32It tastes so good.

0:21:36 > 0:21:38Different finger.

0:21:38 > 0:21:41We'll season it, remember we've got some salt,

0:21:41 > 0:21:43some black pepper,

0:21:43 > 0:21:45which is a spice, so it's technically a herb,

0:21:45 > 0:21:47so it's technically one of your five a day,

0:21:47 > 0:21:51so it compensates for that butter and cream going in there, as well.

0:21:51 > 0:21:52But that's perfect.

0:21:52 > 0:21:55That's just what I want, just leave that to one side.

0:21:56 > 0:22:00Now with our chicken... Almost finish this, really, now

0:22:00 > 0:22:02because it starts to cook down gently.

0:22:02 > 0:22:03You've got all the flavour

0:22:03 > 0:22:06from the carcass in there and everything else.

0:22:06 > 0:22:08And you can pop this into another pan.

0:22:09 > 0:22:11What we're going to do is thicken this sauce.

0:22:11 > 0:22:14This is really the most tricky part of it,

0:22:14 > 0:22:17because the way that we're going to thicken the sauce is create

0:22:17 > 0:22:22what we call a liaison - it's a mixture of cream and egg yolks.

0:22:26 > 0:22:29I ate this a lot when I was living in France and I loved it.

0:22:29 > 0:22:33It might be a bit naughty but it's definitely worth it.

0:22:39 > 0:22:43It may take about five minutes which is quite handy really because...

0:22:45 > 0:22:48it gives you time to have a glass of wine while this is happening.

0:22:48 > 0:22:50But keep stirring it. That's the key to it.

0:22:50 > 0:22:54And remember, whatever wine you put into your dish,

0:22:54 > 0:22:57that's the one that you want to serve this with.

0:22:59 > 0:23:02And we just keep mixing this together

0:23:02 > 0:23:06and it just gently starts to thicken ever so slightly.

0:23:09 > 0:23:12Now this is about ready now. You don't want it thick -

0:23:12 > 0:23:14it's not like a custard that you serve with a crumble.

0:23:14 > 0:23:15Put the chicken back in.

0:23:18 > 0:23:20Remember to season.

0:23:22 > 0:23:24It really is the common mistake,

0:23:24 > 0:23:27when you're cooking at home, not to season stuff enough.

0:23:28 > 0:23:31And then, just to finish this off, right at the last minute

0:23:31 > 0:23:34we then take some fresh parsley.

0:23:34 > 0:23:36It's really simple, really rustic.

0:23:36 > 0:23:39Just the flavour is fundamentally of the chicken.

0:23:39 > 0:23:41It's a classic comfort dish

0:23:41 > 0:23:44but one that tastes really good.

0:23:45 > 0:23:48And there you have it, a steaming pan of loveliness.

0:23:48 > 0:23:51A plate of this will always brighten up my day.

0:23:56 > 0:23:58It's good, is that.

0:24:01 > 0:24:02You have to try this at home.

0:24:02 > 0:24:06So rich, so tasty, it's a guaranteed crowd-pleaser.

0:24:10 > 0:24:12Now as much as I like to cook at home,

0:24:12 > 0:24:16sometimes you don't want to spend all day in the kitchen.

0:24:16 > 0:24:20So here's my suggestion for a really quick comfort food fix,

0:24:20 > 0:24:24and it brings a whole new meaning to the words "canned soup".

0:24:24 > 0:24:28Sweetcorn really has to be my favourite out of a can.

0:24:28 > 0:24:31And I'm going to show you a very quick, little, simple soup with

0:24:31 > 0:24:34a touch of crab, a little bit of curry powder.

0:24:36 > 0:24:39And an effortless way to satisfy even the strongest comfort food

0:24:39 > 0:24:42craving in a matter of minutes.

0:24:47 > 0:24:51I'm starting by frying up some roughly chopped shallots in butter.

0:24:52 > 0:24:56Then I need to spice things up a bit with a touch of medium curry powder.

0:24:56 > 0:25:00It doesn't need a lot. Just enough to give it a bit of a kick.

0:25:00 > 0:25:02And then we grab our sweetcorn.

0:25:05 > 0:25:09A little touch of wine. We've always got some of this left over.

0:25:11 > 0:25:15And then, instead of stock, just a little bit of water.

0:25:15 > 0:25:18All we're doing really is just covering the sweetcorn.

0:25:18 > 0:25:21And then, of course, some double cream.

0:25:21 > 0:25:24No comfort food is complete without a bit of cream.

0:25:26 > 0:25:29Season well and then bring to the boil. And that's it.

0:25:29 > 0:25:31My soup's very nearly ready.

0:25:31 > 0:25:34And it's a common mistake, I think, when people are making soups,

0:25:34 > 0:25:36is basically a lot of leftovers thrown in a pan

0:25:36 > 0:25:38and then boiled up for 45 minutes.

0:25:38 > 0:25:40It's the amount of time that you cook it,

0:25:40 > 0:25:44or the least amount of time, in my opinion, that creates a better soup.

0:25:44 > 0:25:46And this is the perfect example of that.

0:25:46 > 0:25:49As soon as this comes the boil, we take the entire lot

0:25:51 > 0:25:52over to your blender.

0:25:54 > 0:25:56Now I'm using sweetcorn out of a can.

0:25:56 > 0:25:58You could, of course, use frozen sweetcorn.

0:25:58 > 0:26:00The same cooking time applies.

0:26:03 > 0:26:07It needs a quick blitz in a blender to give it a nice smooth texture.

0:26:09 > 0:26:10And as far as I'm concerned,

0:26:10 > 0:26:15no hearty soup is complete without a healthy dollop of creme fraiche.

0:26:15 > 0:26:18And now comes the tricky part of the recipe.

0:26:18 > 0:26:19A bit of double cream.

0:26:20 > 0:26:22A tiny bit of lemon juice.

0:26:27 > 0:26:28And a whisk.

0:26:31 > 0:26:35You've now officially made your own creme fraiche. As easy as that.

0:26:37 > 0:26:40It does require a little bit of elbow grease though.

0:26:46 > 0:26:49And this is now ready, really. We just put this back into our pan.

0:26:50 > 0:26:52See, the texture's lovely.

0:26:56 > 0:26:59Bring that back up to temperature.

0:26:59 > 0:27:02And then I always have in the fridge...

0:27:02 > 0:27:06some crab. It's one of my food heavens, this - white crab meat.

0:27:06 > 0:27:08It really is fantastic.

0:27:08 > 0:27:10And you just grab your lovely soup...

0:27:12 > 0:27:13..in the bowl.

0:27:16 > 0:27:20From the first chop of a shallot to dishing up it's under ten minutes.

0:27:20 > 0:27:22That's comfort food on the go.

0:27:26 > 0:27:29I can't help being cheffy. Just a drizzle of oil.

0:27:32 > 0:27:33And there you have it.

0:27:33 > 0:27:37It may not look that simple when you look at it like this,

0:27:37 > 0:27:40but if you make it out of a can of sweetcorn,

0:27:40 > 0:27:44you too can have something like this in a few minutes.

0:27:51 > 0:27:56When I'm at home, nothing makes me happier than cooking up a feast.

0:27:56 > 0:27:59Home cooking has the power to lift our mood,

0:27:59 > 0:28:02connect us to our past and enrich our lives,

0:28:02 > 0:28:07which is why my kitchen home is my absolute favourite place to be.

0:28:10 > 0:28:12If you'd like to know more about how to cook

0:28:12 > 0:28:14any of the recipes featured on today's show,

0:28:14 > 0:28:18you can get all of them at our website: