Winter Warmers

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0:00:03 > 0:00:05Sometimes there's no place like home,

0:00:05 > 0:00:07and few things are more comforting

0:00:07 > 0:00:10and delicious than real home cooking.

0:00:10 > 0:00:13Living in this beautiful country, with great produce

0:00:13 > 0:00:16right on our doorstep, we really are spoiled for choice.

0:00:18 > 0:00:21So in this series I'm inviting you into my kitchen to share with you

0:00:21 > 0:00:24some of my tasty home-cooked treats.

0:00:24 > 0:00:27The dishes I turn to, whether entertaining friends

0:00:27 > 0:00:30and family or just relaxing on my own.

0:00:47 > 0:00:50There's something quite beautiful about the winter

0:00:50 > 0:00:52in the Hampshire countryside where I live.

0:00:54 > 0:00:57At home, the cold days completely change my cooking

0:00:57 > 0:01:01and it's the perfect opportunity for some of the most satisfying,

0:01:01 > 0:01:04hearty and indulgent food I know.

0:01:04 > 0:01:06You can't beat an open fire in the winter time

0:01:06 > 0:01:09and in today's show I'm going to be showing you

0:01:09 > 0:01:12some of my favourite winter warmers, food that warms up the soul,

0:01:12 > 0:01:15things like braising, stews, steamed sponge puddings.

0:01:15 > 0:01:17It's all about flavour.

0:01:17 > 0:01:20I'll be raising a glass to a small-scale brewer

0:01:20 > 0:01:23who's producing award-winning drinks from his own backyard.

0:01:25 > 0:01:28And cooking a hearty winter warmer for two local farmers

0:01:28 > 0:01:31that proves mutton doesn't have to be second best to lamb.

0:01:34 > 0:01:38And I've got just the recipe for a chilly day like this.

0:01:38 > 0:01:43You can't beat a jacket potato for a nice winter warming dish.

0:01:44 > 0:01:48I love to cook mine with bacon, Taleggio cheese and leeks.

0:01:48 > 0:01:50But to make it really special I'm going to tray-bake it

0:01:50 > 0:01:52in my wood-fired oven.

0:01:52 > 0:01:55First thing we're going to do is get our potatoes on,

0:01:55 > 0:01:58and to do that you need some decent salt,

0:01:58 > 0:02:01and I actually use sea salt for this rather than table salt.

0:02:01 > 0:02:03Just put little piles in there.

0:02:03 > 0:02:06As you actually cook the potatoes this dries out the skins

0:02:06 > 0:02:08so they become nice and crisp.

0:02:08 > 0:02:11Little bit of oil on the potatoes.

0:02:13 > 0:02:17Like that. And then all you need to do is just prick them with a fork,

0:02:17 > 0:02:19just over the top.

0:02:19 > 0:02:21I've set the oven about 200 degrees centigrade.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24I've got some already in here.

0:02:24 > 0:02:26And these want to cook for about an hour, really.

0:02:28 > 0:02:31And then we turn our attention to the sauce.

0:02:31 > 0:02:35Dice one shallot and slice a clove of garlic,

0:02:35 > 0:02:38then sweat them down in a frying pan.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41Starting off with a little bit of butter, of course.

0:02:41 > 0:02:42Next, chop up two leeks.

0:02:42 > 0:02:46I like to use all of them, including the green part.

0:02:46 > 0:02:49So we're going to throw in our leeks in here.

0:02:49 > 0:02:53Pop them in the pan and pour over a generous amount of white wine.

0:02:56 > 0:02:59And of course, just like the legend Mr Floyd...

0:03:00 > 0:03:03..you've got to have a glass while you're cooking as well,

0:03:03 > 0:03:05ain't you, really?

0:03:05 > 0:03:08At this point the sauce gives me some great cooking options.

0:03:08 > 0:03:13I could blend it into a soup, serve it as a side dish with some brioche,

0:03:13 > 0:03:17or add sweet corn and use it as a sauce with roast chicken.

0:03:17 > 0:03:19And then we need some liquid in here.

0:03:20 > 0:03:23And that comes in the form of double cream.

0:03:25 > 0:03:27Now, the key to this, I think, is not to overcook it.

0:03:27 > 0:03:30I do find leeks, if they're overcooked,

0:03:30 > 0:03:32they go horrible and grey.

0:03:32 > 0:03:34And you lose the great flavour of leeks, I think,

0:03:34 > 0:03:38so just be careful when you do it like this not to overcook it.

0:03:39 > 0:03:43So a good amount of seasoning. Some salt.

0:03:44 > 0:03:46And black pepper.

0:03:49 > 0:03:52Slice the spuds into quarters

0:03:52 > 0:03:55and lay them skin side down in a baking tray.

0:03:58 > 0:04:00Just take the sauce

0:04:00 > 0:04:03and just drizzle it over the top of the potatoes.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10Now I need to crisp up some bacon in the pan.

0:04:10 > 0:04:13It's the star of this dish so I want quality stuff.

0:04:17 > 0:04:21And when you've got bacon this good, and this is dry-cured bacon,

0:04:21 > 0:04:23you fry it in a dry pan,

0:04:23 > 0:04:26and the fat's going to come out of the bacon, get it lovely and crisp.

0:04:27 > 0:04:31This is Taleggio cheese and it's got a lovely creamy flavour

0:04:31 > 0:04:34and it actually melts when it cooks. It really is delicious -

0:04:34 > 0:04:36one that goes really well with bacon.

0:04:36 > 0:04:40So, what we're going to do with this is just chop it up.

0:04:41 > 0:04:44And you just break it up and put it in there.

0:04:49 > 0:04:52'When the bacon's ready, chop it up and added to the tray.

0:04:56 > 0:04:58'and don't waste the fat.'

0:05:01 > 0:05:03And then what we do now is just pop it back

0:05:03 > 0:05:06in the oven, but instead of using this I'm going to use a proper oven.

0:05:11 > 0:05:13'Even at this cold time of year,

0:05:13 > 0:05:16'there's chance to enjoy the outdoors.

0:05:16 > 0:05:19'This is the kind of dish that you could cook in advance for

0:05:19 > 0:05:22'when your friends come over and, in a normal oven, it

0:05:22 > 0:05:25'takes ten minutes at 200 degrees centigrade to cook.'

0:05:28 > 0:05:30HE CHUCKLES

0:05:32 > 0:05:36It just... It is a simple dish but...

0:05:39 > 0:05:42..it just tastes so good, with the baked potatoes especially,

0:05:42 > 0:05:45cos you get a mixture of sort of different textures.

0:05:45 > 0:05:47You get the fluffiness of the inside

0:05:47 > 0:05:50and the crispness of the potato skins as well.

0:06:02 > 0:06:07Good quality ingredients make all the difference to your food.

0:06:09 > 0:06:13Across the border in Dorset, Tess and Steve Gould run a smallholding

0:06:13 > 0:06:17that they've dedicated to rearing a very rare breed of sheep,

0:06:17 > 0:06:21that is the source of an incredibly flavoursome and traditional meat.

0:06:22 > 0:06:25Mutton is any sheep that's over two years old.

0:06:25 > 0:06:27It's a completely different product from young lamb

0:06:27 > 0:06:30so you'd cook it so the sweetness in the meat comes out.

0:06:30 > 0:06:35It's a very fine-grained meat. It's part of our culinary heritage.

0:06:35 > 0:06:36BLEATING

0:06:36 > 0:06:42Mutton has got a fantastic background story to it that's actually

0:06:42 > 0:06:44linked with our island's history.

0:06:45 > 0:06:50That history dates back to the 1760s and an important royal connection.

0:06:52 > 0:06:55George III used to come to Weymouth for his holidays,

0:06:55 > 0:06:57bathe in the lovely sea that was there

0:06:57 > 0:07:03and also requested Portland mutton to eat when he was here.

0:07:03 > 0:07:06The King's Yeomanry apparently recognised it as being a superior

0:07:06 > 0:07:11product and they would go out of their way to get Portland mutton.

0:07:11 > 0:07:14After the Second World War, mutton fell out of favour

0:07:14 > 0:07:18when food production had to be increased to feed the nation

0:07:18 > 0:07:21and traditional breeds like the Portland were replaced with

0:07:21 > 0:07:24quick-to-mature commercial sheep for lamb production.

0:07:25 > 0:07:29But, in 2004, the meat was championed by his Royal Highness

0:07:29 > 0:07:33the Prince of Wales and the mutton Renaissance campaign was founded.

0:07:34 > 0:07:38Its aims are to support traditional British sheep farmers to get

0:07:38 > 0:07:41this delicious meat back onto our plates and, for Tess

0:07:41 > 0:07:44and Steve, there's only one breed that makes the grade.

0:07:46 > 0:07:49Where commercial sheep are grazers, I suppose,

0:07:49 > 0:07:51like lawn mowers, maybe, we could say,

0:07:51 > 0:07:53the Portlands are just a bit picky,

0:07:53 > 0:07:55they'll have a bit here and there and a bit here.

0:07:55 > 0:07:56They are a primitive breed.

0:07:56 > 0:08:01They were a valuable asset with their milk and wool and therefore

0:08:01 > 0:08:04they were killed later in life and that's why, traditionally,

0:08:04 > 0:08:07Portland sheep, it's always a mutton because it's slow-growing.

0:08:07 > 0:08:10People recognised it years ago as a delicacy.

0:08:11 > 0:08:15Tess and Steve supply their local inn with meat that's been hung

0:08:15 > 0:08:19and allowed to mature for at least two weeks to intensify its flavours.

0:08:21 > 0:08:25- Special delivery. Hello, Jamie. - How are you doing? Are you OK?

0:08:25 > 0:08:28Yes, I generally am.

0:08:28 > 0:08:31Traditionally, mutton is cooked slowly but local chef

0:08:31 > 0:08:35Jamie Jones has a new dish he wants Tess and Steve to try, which

0:08:35 > 0:08:39involves an unusual cut of mutton cooked in a very different way.

0:08:40 > 0:08:43There's a lot of scaremongering goes on with

0:08:43 > 0:08:47mutton that it can't be quick-cooked. It can.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51It lends itself really well to many different types of cookery.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54Jamie is preparing a cut known as a cannon of mutton,

0:08:54 > 0:08:57which comes from the loin area of the sheep -

0:08:57 > 0:08:59number two on the diagram.

0:08:59 > 0:09:02As the name suggests, a cannon cut is thick at one end

0:09:02 > 0:09:04and thin at the other.

0:09:04 > 0:09:06The beautiful thing about this dish, there is

0:09:06 > 0:09:12no fat or sinew on the actual piece of mutton itself

0:09:12 > 0:09:16so, because of that, it has a better contact with the pan

0:09:16 > 0:09:20so we're searing the juices in really quickly.

0:09:20 > 0:09:23I'm going to do it two minutes on one side, two minutes on the other,

0:09:23 > 0:09:26two minutes in the oven and out and rest for four minutes.

0:09:26 > 0:09:29That's how quick we're going to be cooking this dish.

0:09:35 > 0:09:39Jamie's dish features a cream potato mash with spring onions,

0:09:39 > 0:09:43cider and mead sauce and the meat is brushed with mustard

0:09:43 > 0:09:46and dipped in a herb crust and placed on a parsnip puree.

0:09:51 > 0:09:56- So, go on.- Yeah, so, what's there? - Have a try. Tuck in.- Absolutely.

0:09:56 > 0:09:57What's this?

0:09:57 > 0:10:01This is little parsnips and then you've got on there your mutton

0:10:01 > 0:10:04and it's with the... Look how tender that is.

0:10:04 > 0:10:09- It's lovely and rare.- Yeah. - Are you proud of your dish?

0:10:10 > 0:10:11Well...

0:10:11 > 0:10:15you've done it justice there.

0:10:15 > 0:10:18That's absolutely gorgeous. Well done.

0:10:18 > 0:10:19Thank you, Jamie.

0:10:19 > 0:10:21Well, Jamie's certainly impressed them

0:10:21 > 0:10:24but Tess and Steve have been spoiled as I'm going to cook for them

0:10:24 > 0:10:27again using some of their great produce.

0:10:27 > 0:10:30Jamie's quick-cook mutton recipe looked delicious

0:10:30 > 0:10:34but I'm going to try something a little slower.

0:10:34 > 0:10:37So, what's your favourite dish, then, to use mutton?

0:10:37 > 0:10:41Our favourite dish, I suppose, would be...

0:10:41 > 0:10:43We like Irish stew, don't we?

0:10:43 > 0:10:46- Or even...- Chops. - Mutton chops are lovely.

0:10:46 > 0:10:49Or even just shepherd's pie with minced shoulder of mutton,

0:10:49 > 0:10:52you know, even that is lovely.

0:10:52 > 0:10:55'Sometimes the classics are the best

0:10:55 > 0:10:58'so I'm going for a winter mutton hotpot.

0:10:58 > 0:11:01'Few things are better to warm the cockles

0:11:01 > 0:11:03'than this slow-cooked and rich stew.'

0:11:04 > 0:11:06Instead of using sort of the neck,

0:11:06 > 0:11:10which I think the neck of mutton is fantastic, it takes a long time to

0:11:10 > 0:11:14cook, I thought I'd use a bit of the leg but I can't help but use this.

0:11:14 > 0:11:18This is the suet and it's all around the kidney and this is where

0:11:18 > 0:11:22your suet comes from for your suet puddings and all that kind of stuff.

0:11:22 > 0:11:24But there is so much flavour in here.

0:11:24 > 0:11:26Rather than sort of get rid of it,

0:11:26 > 0:11:30what we're going to do is chop it up and render this down to

0:11:30 > 0:11:35produce this wonderful fat to be able to fry our lamb in.

0:11:35 > 0:11:37- I mean, you must use this quite a lot, don't you?- Mm!

0:11:37 > 0:11:40I have made suet pastry before with it.

0:11:40 > 0:11:43'I'm being careful not to overheat the suet.

0:11:43 > 0:11:47'It needs to render down slowly to release all of its flavour.

0:11:47 > 0:11:51'Meanwhile, Tess has brought me in a real treat - mutton dressed as ham.'

0:11:54 > 0:11:59It's a leg of mutton that's been boned and rolled and then dry cured.

0:11:59 > 0:12:00So, I've never tried this before.

0:12:00 > 0:12:03It's got kind of a pastrami texture in a lot of ways.

0:12:06 > 0:12:09It does almost... Yeah, like pastrami. Like you were saying.

0:12:09 > 0:12:10It's a great flavour when you try it.

0:12:10 > 0:12:12It's got quite a strong flavour, hasn't it?

0:12:12 > 0:12:14You wouldn't think it was lamb.

0:12:14 > 0:12:17- It's nice with something sharp like watercress.- It does want something.

0:12:17 > 0:12:21That would be great with a pickle or a chutney or something like that.

0:12:21 > 0:12:23I'm going to put you guys to work, if you don't mind.

0:12:23 > 0:12:25- How are you with peeling? - I like peeling.- You like peeling?

0:12:25 > 0:12:28We'll get him to do it, then, shall we? Me and you'll just have a chat.

0:12:28 > 0:12:30So, peel me the spuds if you can do.

0:12:30 > 0:12:32Meanwhile, I'm going to chop up this.

0:12:32 > 0:12:34So which is your favourite cut, then, that you use?

0:12:34 > 0:12:36I mean, the shoulder is lovely.

0:12:36 > 0:12:40Cooking that really slowly, it's lovely in a kind of tagine

0:12:40 > 0:12:42or something like that, some Moroccan spices perhaps.

0:12:42 > 0:12:44Tagine? That's a bit fancy, isn't it?

0:12:44 > 0:12:49Here's me going all traditional. You come in here with your tagines.

0:12:49 > 0:12:52I mean, I used to make some Portland pies, actually.

0:12:52 > 0:12:57It was minced shoulder and you can have it with maybe some capers

0:12:57 > 0:13:01but one thing I used to do was finely dice some gherkins, actually.

0:13:01 > 0:13:03But if you imagine the bit of sharpness.

0:13:03 > 0:13:04You live all right, don't you?

0:13:04 > 0:13:07With your tagines and your gherkins and all this sort of stuff!

0:13:07 > 0:13:10I've got my work cut out here. I'd better up my game here.

0:13:10 > 0:13:13'But I shouldn't have to try too hard with meat this good.

0:13:15 > 0:13:18'Dust the large chunks of mutton with flour and get it sizzling.

0:13:25 > 0:13:28'And, in my mutton hotpot, I'm keeping it simple

0:13:28 > 0:13:31'with sliced onions followed by a few bay leaves...

0:13:33 > 0:13:36'..a healthy splash of Worcester sauce...

0:13:38 > 0:13:39'..and some beef stock.'

0:13:42 > 0:13:45You can't really get mutton stock yet. It's a long way off yet.

0:13:45 > 0:13:47You can't even get lamb stock to be honest.

0:13:47 > 0:13:49There's a market for us there, look.

0:13:49 > 0:13:50'To really make the most of

0:13:50 > 0:13:54'Tess and Steve's wonderful mutton, I'm adding the kidneys.

0:13:54 > 0:13:57'Not everyone uses them for their hotpot but, for me,

0:13:57 > 0:14:02'you just need them for that fuller, rich, traditional flavour.'

0:14:02 > 0:14:05What we're going to do is just bring this to the boil,

0:14:05 > 0:14:07a decent amount of seasoning, a bit of salt

0:14:07 > 0:14:11and a good grinding of black pepper...

0:14:12 > 0:14:13..in there.

0:14:15 > 0:14:19My temptation for this, really, is to cut potatoes too thin.

0:14:19 > 0:14:21You want decent-sized chunks in here

0:14:21 > 0:14:26cos all these pieces will actually soak in that liquid as well.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29We just randomly put these spuds over the top.

0:14:29 > 0:14:31A few knobs of butter over the top...

0:14:34 > 0:14:37..then all we do, quite simply, is put the lid on...

0:14:37 > 0:14:41..get the oven about sort of 350, 400, something like that,

0:14:41 > 0:14:44take the whole lot...

0:14:44 > 0:14:47..and this wants a couple of hours in the oven.

0:14:49 > 0:14:51'This mutton needs to be cooked slowly

0:14:51 > 0:14:53'at a low temperature to get the best out of it.'

0:14:56 > 0:14:59I'm used to cooking lamb and maybe hogget but mutton, really,

0:14:59 > 0:15:01I don't really cook that much, really.

0:15:01 > 0:15:03It's completely different to lamb,

0:15:03 > 0:15:06where lamb has perhaps not got quite as much taste

0:15:06 > 0:15:09because it's so fast-growing, this has got some body to it.

0:15:10 > 0:15:12'Two hours should have done the trick.'

0:15:15 > 0:15:18I thought, with this, because you've got such a fantastic

0:15:18 > 0:15:23breed of mutton, I thought with this we'd just do some heritage carrots.

0:15:23 > 0:15:26Nice, coloured heritage carrots, really.

0:15:26 > 0:15:27It doesn't want anything else

0:15:27 > 0:15:30cos you've got the potatoes with it as well.

0:15:31 > 0:15:36So you've got a few carrots and, of course, with this,

0:15:36 > 0:15:39you've got to do a little bit of butter, haven't you, really?

0:15:39 > 0:15:41Being a farmer, a little bit more than normal, you know.

0:15:41 > 0:15:44- Keep you warm in the winter, you see.- Work it off tomorrow.

0:15:44 > 0:15:46Yeah, exactly. Work it off tomorrow!

0:15:47 > 0:15:49'After hours of cooking,

0:15:49 > 0:15:52'that mutton should be melt-in-the-mouth tender

0:15:52 > 0:15:55'and that's one of the joys of these old-school slow-cooked dishes -

0:15:55 > 0:16:00'you just leave them alone and they get tastier and tastier.

0:16:00 > 0:16:02'Home-cooked food doesn't get better than this.'

0:16:02 > 0:16:05Well, I said at the top of this I've got my work cut out

0:16:05 > 0:16:07so I'm a bit nervous now, you see.

0:16:07 > 0:16:09Well, dive in. Tell us what you think.

0:16:17 > 0:16:19Huge amounts of flavour in your mouth.

0:16:19 > 0:16:21I can see you're enjoying that.

0:16:21 > 0:16:23THEY LAUGH

0:16:23 > 0:16:26Never mind the tagine, put this back on the menu.

0:16:26 > 0:16:29- You've passed the test. - Have I passed the test?

0:16:31 > 0:16:33It's one of the dishes that, you know,

0:16:33 > 0:16:37I used to have as a kid and I think, tasting it like this,

0:16:37 > 0:16:40it's good enough to put on any restaurant menu, isn't it, really?

0:16:40 > 0:16:44- When you have mutton that good. - Good. Pleased you like it.

0:16:44 > 0:16:48I'm pleased you like it, too. I was slightly nervous at the top of this.

0:16:48 > 0:16:49THEY LAUGH

0:16:51 > 0:16:53Well, that's my take on a traditional hotpot -

0:16:53 > 0:16:56a meal that's delighted people for centuries.

0:16:56 > 0:16:59It's a good, honest dish

0:16:59 > 0:17:00and it's not just me.

0:17:00 > 0:17:04There are small-scale food producers all over the country,

0:17:04 > 0:17:07making winter warming produce with a passion.

0:17:11 > 0:17:14Like cider maker Kevin Minchew from Gloucestershire, who has

0:17:14 > 0:17:19turned his own back garden into an award-winning brewery.

0:17:19 > 0:17:22Nothing's guaranteed to lift your spirits more in the dark

0:17:22 > 0:17:25winter months than a traditional pint of cider

0:17:25 > 0:17:28and it doesn't come any better than Kevin's.

0:17:28 > 0:17:32The sorts of ciders we produce are sought out by connoisseurs.

0:17:32 > 0:17:37'We want to put cider where it should be on the top tables.'

0:17:37 > 0:17:39What we do in the West Country

0:17:39 > 0:17:42and what we have are a vast range of apples bred specifically

0:17:42 > 0:17:46for the cider maker that have been bequeathed to us by our ancestors.

0:17:46 > 0:17:50The West Country varieties produce a cider which could be called drier,

0:17:50 > 0:17:52with more stringency and more bitter.

0:17:56 > 0:17:59Cider has been produced here by my father

0:17:59 > 0:18:01and other farmers around here for many years.

0:18:01 > 0:18:05I've been making cider commercially since 1993

0:18:05 > 0:18:08and in those days there were a few,

0:18:08 > 0:18:11maybe a few dozen cider makers within the Three Counties area.

0:18:11 > 0:18:15In the last 20 years, that interest has grown enormously.

0:18:15 > 0:18:18Before I started making cider as a commercial enterprise,

0:18:18 > 0:18:21we used to go to the local cider house, which only sold cider,

0:18:21 > 0:18:24and you'd meet all sorts of interesting characters there.

0:18:24 > 0:18:27Cider speaks a lot of languages. It brings people together.

0:18:27 > 0:18:28It's fascinating.

0:18:28 > 0:18:32Everybody makes their own favourite cider made with their own

0:18:32 > 0:18:33favourite varieties.

0:18:33 > 0:18:36And this is with great ceremony you go around

0:18:36 > 0:18:39and try each other's ciders or perries and see what's happened over

0:18:39 > 0:18:43the winter period when it's been slowly fermenting in the darkness.

0:18:43 > 0:18:46Some of these varieties have got wonderfully evocative names

0:18:46 > 0:18:51like Slack Ma Girdle or Strawberry Norman or Cherry Norman.

0:18:51 > 0:18:56There are perhaps a couple of maybe 1,000 varieties of cider apple

0:18:56 > 0:19:00that any producer can have their pick of and make a cider that will

0:19:00 > 0:19:02suit any palate, I'm sure.

0:19:10 > 0:19:11The fruit is dead ripe

0:19:11 > 0:19:15so we're going to express as much juice as you possibly can.

0:19:15 > 0:19:17It's a rural pursuit and practice

0:19:17 > 0:19:19and it feels like I was born to do it, oftentimes.

0:19:23 > 0:19:25Our ciders are produced in a natural way.

0:19:25 > 0:19:28We don't add any yeast or chemicals at any stage

0:19:28 > 0:19:32but we have the ability to control all the processes, from the fruit

0:19:32 > 0:19:36varieties used in it right the way down to when we decide to open it

0:19:36 > 0:19:39and either sell it as a draught or as a bottled product.

0:19:41 > 0:19:42After pulping and pressing,

0:19:42 > 0:19:46the juice is poured into barrels to ferment.

0:19:46 > 0:19:48Through the winter, the cool temperatures slow

0:19:48 > 0:19:52the process down and preserve the delicate flavours.

0:19:52 > 0:19:55But fermentation picks up through the spring and the summer

0:19:55 > 0:19:58and, just one year later, the brew is ready to taste.

0:20:00 > 0:20:05This is cyder with a Y. This is like the first pressing of olive oil.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08It's pressed once and then the pulp is taken away

0:20:08 > 0:20:11and put into compost or animal feed or whatever.

0:20:11 > 0:20:13But other people will take the pulp from the press,

0:20:13 > 0:20:16they'll put it into a tub where they'll rehydrate it,

0:20:16 > 0:20:20it'll be stirred up again so that the water is absorbed by the pulp

0:20:20 > 0:20:24and then it'll be repressed and you'll end up with cider with an I,

0:20:24 > 0:20:27or small cider, and that will consequently be of a much

0:20:27 > 0:20:32lower alcoholic content because most of the sugars

0:20:32 > 0:20:36go off in the first pressing of the juice, which is what we have here.

0:20:39 > 0:20:43As a table-top producer, Kevin only makes up to 500 gallons

0:20:43 > 0:20:48of apple cider a year, all with his strictly traditional approach.

0:20:49 > 0:20:53But with his 2011 brewed, bottled and labelled, he's off to

0:20:53 > 0:20:56the nearest pub to give the locals a taste of his latest vintage.

0:20:58 > 0:21:00I wouldn't choose any other cider.

0:21:00 > 0:21:05It's great to have a local cider in...

0:21:06 > 0:21:07..in my local pub.

0:21:10 > 0:21:11This is absolutely delicious.

0:21:11 > 0:21:14It's really, really good.

0:21:14 > 0:21:18It's got a really crisp, clean taste to it and, yeah,

0:21:18 > 0:21:19it's really refreshing.

0:21:19 > 0:21:22'We're making ciders from the same varieties of fruit,

0:21:22 > 0:21:26'on the same types of equipment, at the same time of the year

0:21:26 > 0:21:30'and I like to think that somebody coming back from antiquity would be

0:21:30 > 0:21:35'familiar with the type and style of ciders we are producing here.

0:21:35 > 0:21:36'We're very proud of that.'

0:21:38 > 0:21:39Cheers.

0:21:43 > 0:21:44Delicious.

0:21:47 > 0:21:50For me, the best winter recipes bring back memories of years

0:21:50 > 0:21:52gone by in their flavours.

0:21:52 > 0:21:57It's not about minding your calories or flashy cooking techniques.

0:21:57 > 0:22:00It's all about aromas and tastes that make you glad to

0:22:00 > 0:22:03be at home and I've got just the thing for that.

0:22:03 > 0:22:06One of my favourite winter warmer puds has to be

0:22:06 > 0:22:07a steamed sponge pudding

0:22:07 > 0:22:10but it's a dish, really, of two halves to me.

0:22:10 > 0:22:12It's a dish that, when I was a youngster

0:22:12 > 0:22:15and I had it at school, it left me mentally scarred, to be honest.

0:22:15 > 0:22:19This sort of horrible pudding with thick custard, yellow custard.

0:22:19 > 0:22:23But this is a little bit more advanced than that.

0:22:23 > 0:22:27If my indulgent clementine and chocolate sponge pudding with orange

0:22:27 > 0:22:32liqueur sauce doesn't warm you up on a cold winter's day, nothing will.

0:22:36 > 0:22:39It's a dish that my grandmother, taught me how to cook.

0:22:39 > 0:22:41But this is taking it a little bit further,

0:22:41 > 0:22:43but one thing she did like was a little bit of orange liqueur

0:22:43 > 0:22:46and I'm going to put that into this cake as well.

0:22:46 > 0:22:49But we're going to take these sort of clementines

0:22:49 > 0:22:51and basically just thinly slice them.

0:22:51 > 0:22:53Now, whenever I cook with these,

0:22:53 > 0:22:55I think of winter, I think of Christmas.

0:22:56 > 0:23:01These always are in bowls around my house.

0:23:01 > 0:23:04It's one of those foods that you just sort of, every time you

0:23:04 > 0:23:07walk into a room, you just grab another one.

0:23:07 > 0:23:08They're addictive, really.

0:23:10 > 0:23:13Now, I'm going to basically line my mould here with some butter.

0:23:15 > 0:23:18We just basically pop these around the edge.

0:23:22 > 0:23:25'And, this being one of my hearty puddings,

0:23:25 > 0:23:28'don't skimp on the butter in the sponge mix.'

0:23:28 > 0:23:30175g.

0:23:30 > 0:23:33The same of sugar as well. And this is one of the easiest

0:23:33 > 0:23:36recipes, really, when it comes to desserts, that you'll remember

0:23:36 > 0:23:39because it's more or less all the same quantities.

0:23:44 > 0:23:48Then we throw in three medium eggs.

0:23:52 > 0:23:57'In goes 125g of self-raising flour and then,

0:23:57 > 0:24:00'to make it really chocolaty, I need top quality cocoa powder.'

0:24:01 > 0:24:04The thing about good cocoa powder is you'll use less of it

0:24:04 > 0:24:07because it's a much better flavour. Throw that in...

0:24:09 > 0:24:12..and then I'm just going to help this along its way.

0:24:12 > 0:24:16A little bit of baking powder. together with a pinch of salt.

0:24:16 > 0:24:18Now, even though you're still doing a dessert,

0:24:18 > 0:24:20a little bit of salt in there will help it.

0:24:20 > 0:24:24'Using a mixer is the best way to get air into the sponge.

0:24:24 > 0:24:25'I want it to be nice and light.

0:24:25 > 0:24:28'This definitely isn't school canteen stodge.'

0:24:29 > 0:24:31It's almost done. It's as easy as that.

0:24:34 > 0:24:35Pop this in the centre.

0:24:35 > 0:24:38You don't want any of those clementines to fall down.

0:24:39 > 0:24:43'I'm going to steam the sponge on the hob for up to two hours.

0:24:43 > 0:24:46'This dish needs to take its time.'

0:24:46 > 0:24:48You could, if you want to, speed this up

0:24:48 > 0:24:51and actually microwave it but, if you do it this way,

0:24:51 > 0:24:55something about the time that it takes to cook improves the flavour.

0:24:55 > 0:24:58Like anything, really - stews or anything.

0:24:58 > 0:25:00Desserts are the same thing.

0:25:03 > 0:25:05Although it tastes pretty good as it is, really.

0:25:07 > 0:25:10And then what we're going to do now is cover this up.

0:25:11 > 0:25:15To help it actually as it expands, what you need to do is just

0:25:15 > 0:25:19put a little fold and then fold it over again.

0:25:19 > 0:25:22Now this, as it rises up, that fold will open up and actually

0:25:22 > 0:25:26cause the mixture still to keep rising, which is what we want.

0:25:39 > 0:25:42The classic accompaniment with sponge pudding would be custard.

0:25:42 > 0:25:44I'm not going to do that.

0:25:44 > 0:25:46I'm going to create a little sauce just using a little bit of sugar.

0:25:46 > 0:25:50And you just want a little bit of colour on this.

0:25:50 > 0:25:53'Adding a splash of Granny's favourite orange liqueur

0:25:53 > 0:25:56'is going to give it a warming boozy tang.'

0:25:56 > 0:25:58You can use any kind of liqueur, really.

0:25:58 > 0:26:01Rum, brandy, orange liqueur, anything like that.

0:26:01 > 0:26:04It even works with sort of a coconut liqueur, works fantastic.

0:26:05 > 0:26:08Get a nice bit of colour on there. In we go with the orange juice.

0:26:11 > 0:26:13So, I'm going to put a touch of vanilla in there.

0:26:13 > 0:26:15Just a little bit of vanilla pod.

0:26:15 > 0:26:17I'm going to grab one of these clementines that we've got left

0:26:17 > 0:26:20as well cos we're going to use the juice out of this.

0:26:21 > 0:26:23And then, if you see, the mixture and the sauce

0:26:23 > 0:26:26is actually quite thin now.

0:26:26 > 0:26:28But if we just grab some butter,

0:26:28 > 0:26:30it actually starts to thicken up.

0:26:36 > 0:26:38It's lovely, that.

0:26:38 > 0:26:40It's not too strong with the alcohol

0:26:40 > 0:26:42but it's not too sweet to go with the pudding.

0:26:50 > 0:26:51Looking pretty good.

0:26:53 > 0:26:56And then, of course, you've got this sauce.

0:26:56 > 0:27:00It kind of looks like a Christmas pudding, doesn't it, really?

0:27:03 > 0:27:05It's one of the real delights, I think,

0:27:05 > 0:27:08of cooking when you tip it out and you end up with that

0:27:08 > 0:27:12lovely, rich sponge, and you only get that through time.

0:27:12 > 0:27:15'The aromas alone from this pudding are worth the wait.

0:27:15 > 0:27:19'With all of its great flavours, it's a winter warmer to remember.'

0:27:21 > 0:27:27I think some creme fraiche with this is just the best because you

0:27:27 > 0:27:31need something to cut through all that chocolate and everything else.

0:27:31 > 0:27:33It really works.

0:27:36 > 0:27:41Whether you do this one or a steamed sponge pudding, either way,

0:27:41 > 0:27:44it's the taste of that sponge that develops over

0:27:44 > 0:27:47an hour and a half, two hours' worth of cooking which makes it

0:27:47 > 0:27:50worthwhile and worth the wait.

0:27:51 > 0:27:54'Cooking in winter has so much to offer.

0:27:54 > 0:27:57'When else can you bring together all the most luxuriant

0:27:57 > 0:28:00'and tasty ingredients into a single dish?

0:28:00 > 0:28:02'It might be cold and grey outside

0:28:02 > 0:28:06'but in your kitchen, you can create recipes that make you smile

0:28:06 > 0:28:09'and I think that's what good food is all about.'

0:28:13 > 0:28:15If you'd like to know more about how to cook any of the recipes featured

0:28:15 > 0:28:19on today's show, you can get all of them at our website.