Slow Cooking

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05If there's one thing I look forward to at the end of a busy day

0:00:05 > 0:00:08it's the thought of getting back to my kitchen at home.

0:00:10 > 0:00:14For me nothing beats cooking some simple, heart-warming, food.

0:00:14 > 0:00:17Oh-oh-oh, it is so good!

0:00:17 > 0:00:22The kind of no nonsense grub that brings people together.

0:00:22 > 0:00:23Cheers, everyone.

0:00:26 > 0:00:28The dishes I turn to

0:00:28 > 0:00:31when I want to put a big smile on everyone's face.

0:00:33 > 0:00:34These are my Home Comforts.

0:00:43 > 0:00:47I grew up in Yorkshire, so I'll always be a country boy at heart.

0:00:48 > 0:00:50I now live in Hampshire, and for me

0:00:50 > 0:00:53there's nothing better than getting back there and slowing down.

0:00:55 > 0:01:00And my favourite way to unwind is making tasty food at a relaxed pace.

0:01:00 > 0:01:03Our busy lives make us think that every meal has to be quick,

0:01:03 > 0:01:07but when I get home, I like to take my time in the kitchen.

0:01:07 > 0:01:10So I'm going to do something that seems impossible

0:01:10 > 0:01:11in this day and age - slow-cooking.

0:01:13 > 0:01:14On today's show,

0:01:14 > 0:01:17food historian Ivan Day stokes up a Georgian slow cooker.

0:01:19 > 0:01:21We spend three days making the kind of marshmallows

0:01:21 > 0:01:23that dreams are made of...

0:01:23 > 0:01:28It is just like one big, puffy pillow of deliciousness.

0:01:29 > 0:01:30And I'm having fun...

0:01:30 > 0:01:32Mm, mm, mm!

0:01:32 > 0:01:36..as I rediscover the joys of taking it easy in the kitchen.

0:01:36 > 0:01:41This is proper home cooking. Slow-cooking at its best, really.

0:01:49 > 0:01:52Slow-cooking doesn't have to be labour intensive.

0:01:52 > 0:01:55There's nothing easier than throwing a few simple ingredients together

0:01:55 > 0:01:58and sticking them in the oven while you put your feet up.

0:02:00 > 0:02:04And my first recipe is a fantastic example of this approach.

0:02:05 > 0:02:09It's salt crust baked celeriac with creme fraiche and chive dressing.

0:02:11 > 0:02:14Now slow-cooking has to be one of my favourite forms of cooking,

0:02:14 > 0:02:19but this particular way of slow-cooking - salt crust baking -

0:02:19 > 0:02:21has to be one of the best, in my opinion,

0:02:21 > 0:02:23particularly for veg like this.

0:02:23 > 0:02:26This is celeriac, but the key to this is the crust.

0:02:28 > 0:02:30The crust is basically a salty dough

0:02:30 > 0:02:32which is wrapped around the celeriac.

0:02:32 > 0:02:36So start by putting 500 grams of strong white flour in a mixer

0:02:36 > 0:02:38with 200 grams of fine sea salt.

0:02:40 > 0:02:42A good amount of salt.

0:02:42 > 0:02:44That's the amount of salt that we need.

0:02:44 > 0:02:47So basically we make a pastry, but you don't eat it,

0:02:47 > 0:02:51it just imparts so much flavour into whatever you cook it with.

0:02:51 > 0:02:53And then egg whites to bind it.

0:02:57 > 0:03:02And what you're looking for really, is almost like a hot water crust,

0:03:02 > 0:03:04which is what you make pork pies out of, really, and hand-raise them.

0:03:04 > 0:03:07You get that similar sort of texture.

0:03:07 > 0:03:09Add water until it forms a soft dough.

0:03:12 > 0:03:14Now salt baking's nothing new.

0:03:14 > 0:03:18It's done all around the world and I first came across this

0:03:18 > 0:03:21while over in France, but we used to put things like rosemary and

0:03:21 > 0:03:24tarragon and all manner of different sort of flavourings in there.

0:03:26 > 0:03:29This pastry is ready now.

0:03:29 > 0:03:33The texture of this is kind of exactly what we want.

0:03:33 > 0:03:35You get this sort of pliable dough.

0:03:38 > 0:03:40Before you get busy with the rolling pin,

0:03:40 > 0:03:44cut a piece off the dough which you'll use later.

0:03:44 > 0:03:47Then roll out the pastry until it's about a centimetre thick.

0:03:48 > 0:03:53You don't have to worry about it too much, it can be thick.

0:03:53 > 0:03:55Mainly, it doesn't want to be thin cos it doesn't want to split.

0:03:55 > 0:04:00Because the idea behind this is it actually steams inside the pastry,

0:04:00 > 0:04:03which is really the definition of the old pie really, particularly the

0:04:03 > 0:04:07old pork pie because the actual pie crust was never meant to be eaten.

0:04:07 > 0:04:11It was just used as a casing to hold everything inside.

0:04:11 > 0:04:15So this is really sort of the ultimate pot, I suppose,

0:04:15 > 0:04:17that you can cook your celeriac in.

0:04:18 > 0:04:21Once your dough is large enough to wrap around the veg,

0:04:21 > 0:04:23brush the edges with water.

0:04:23 > 0:04:26Then it's time to introduce the star of the show -

0:04:26 > 0:04:28celeriac.

0:04:28 > 0:04:32It's a fantastic veg and what the French love to do with this

0:04:32 > 0:04:34is create a dish called the celeriac remoulade, which is

0:04:34 > 0:04:37a wonderful sort of coleslaw type salad.

0:04:37 > 0:04:41So much flavour in this. This is brilliant for soups as well.

0:04:41 > 0:04:44Normally it's got green shoots on it, cut these off.

0:04:44 > 0:04:48You just dump the celeriac on there, kind of bring this up.

0:04:50 > 0:04:53It's difficult to explain, really, but you're creating a bag.

0:04:55 > 0:04:58Think of Play-Doh, when you were at school.

0:04:58 > 0:05:01Make sure it's nice and sealed in

0:05:01 > 0:05:03and then we'll pop that on our tray.

0:05:03 > 0:05:06When the celeriac is encased in your dough,

0:05:06 > 0:05:10use your small piece of pastry to make a tie on the top of the parcel.

0:05:11 > 0:05:15Now what you need to do now is cook this about 180 degrees centigrade

0:05:15 > 0:05:17and cook it for a good hour and a half,

0:05:17 > 0:05:20so it nicely steams all the way through in the middle.

0:05:24 > 0:05:27And what you end up with...is this.

0:05:27 > 0:05:28It looks fantastic.

0:05:28 > 0:05:31I'm going to serve this with a wonderful little dressing.

0:05:31 > 0:05:33It's so simple to make.

0:05:33 > 0:05:36The dressing is made by whisking 100 grams of creme fraiche

0:05:36 > 0:05:39in a bowl with two tablespoons of olive oil.

0:05:39 > 0:05:41Then season with freshly ground black pepper,

0:05:41 > 0:05:44before chopping your chives.

0:05:44 > 0:05:46If you don't want to put chives with this,

0:05:46 > 0:05:49things like spring onions are really good.

0:05:49 > 0:05:51But you want something onion-y sort of flavoured,

0:05:51 > 0:05:55so even raw red onion would work really well with this.

0:05:55 > 0:05:58A little bit of chives saving a few leftover,

0:05:58 > 0:06:01and you've got this simple dressing like that.

0:06:01 > 0:06:03Almost looks like sort of mayonnaise.

0:06:05 > 0:06:09When your dressing is done, it's time to tackle the pastry parcel.

0:06:09 > 0:06:12There's no real glamorous way of getting into this sort of thing.

0:06:12 > 0:06:15You just give it a whack all the way around,

0:06:15 > 0:06:21just to break it first of all and then you can break off the pastry.

0:06:21 > 0:06:24The whole point about it, when you remove this salt crust,

0:06:24 > 0:06:26you get this amazing smell.

0:06:29 > 0:06:32Once the celeriac has been freed from its pastry casing,

0:06:32 > 0:06:35all you have to do is peel and slice it.

0:06:38 > 0:06:42And you add plenty of this dressing over the top.

0:06:42 > 0:06:47A few bits of chopped chive and then a nice decent amount of watercress.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50But this is just a wonderful little salad

0:06:50 > 0:06:54that would make a great starter, a great complement to a main course,

0:06:54 > 0:06:56but salt baked celeriac.

0:07:00 > 0:07:02The taste is off the scale.

0:07:04 > 0:07:07This celeriac is just so tasty and versatile,

0:07:07 > 0:07:10and slow-cooking it really brings out its delicate flavour.

0:07:10 > 0:07:13It may take a while to bake in its salt crust,

0:07:13 > 0:07:16but once you've tasted it, you'll be glad you took the time.

0:07:23 > 0:07:26I believe that the best things in life are worth waiting for.

0:07:26 > 0:07:27But it's not just the time

0:07:27 > 0:07:30and effort that goes into cooking that makes a difference,

0:07:30 > 0:07:34it's also the care that goes into choosing the right ingredients.

0:07:39 > 0:07:41In this beautiful coastal spot in the New Forest,

0:07:41 > 0:07:45Lisa and Simeon Morgan are patiently rearing a very unusual

0:07:45 > 0:07:50breed of sheep, that only 30 years ago was almost extinct.

0:07:50 > 0:07:54What we've got here is a pen of my Zwartbles sheep.

0:07:54 > 0:07:57'Zwartbles' means black with a white blaze.

0:07:57 > 0:07:59I saw them for the first time when I went down to Cornwall

0:07:59 > 0:08:02with my husband on holiday and I fell in love with them.

0:08:02 > 0:08:06They're obviously very striking to look at and I thought I'd really

0:08:06 > 0:08:09like some of those, but Simeon kept saying, no, I couldn't have any.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12He's an arable farmer, he's not really into animals.

0:08:12 > 0:08:16So eventually, I wore him down and he let me have some and I had five.

0:08:17 > 0:08:19The five sheep all gave birth,

0:08:19 > 0:08:22and soon Lisa had more than she'd bargained for.

0:08:22 > 0:08:25It was soon apparent that I needed to be able to do something

0:08:25 > 0:08:28with the lambs, so I thought,

0:08:28 > 0:08:31"Well I'm going to have to send them to slaughter," and they came back

0:08:31 > 0:08:34and we were really proud of the meat that we'd produced.

0:08:38 > 0:08:39Unlike most commercial sheep

0:08:39 > 0:08:41that are ready for slaughter at six months old,

0:08:41 > 0:08:46this breed are larger than average and take longer to mature.

0:08:46 > 0:08:49They reach their perfect weight at around a year.

0:08:49 > 0:08:53Because these are older, they get a really good marbling.

0:08:53 > 0:08:55The legs are really big and meaty.

0:08:55 > 0:08:58The whole animal is really good for both roasting joints,

0:08:58 > 0:09:02but also slow-cooking as well and once people have tried it,

0:09:02 > 0:09:03they come back for more and more.

0:09:05 > 0:09:07The flavour and texture of the meat vary depending

0:09:07 > 0:09:10on where the animal's grown up and what it's been given to eat.

0:09:11 > 0:09:14The coastal pastures that Lisa's sheep are raised on are full

0:09:14 > 0:09:18of herbs like wild clover, sea aster and lavender.

0:09:19 > 0:09:22We've got some varieties of herbs

0:09:22 > 0:09:27and grasses that really are favoured to this area of land by the sea.

0:09:27 > 0:09:31The salt in the air here, it certainly we think it makes a...

0:09:31 > 0:09:33Adds a little edge to the flavour.

0:09:33 > 0:09:38The five sheep that Lisa started with have grown to a flock of 200.

0:09:38 > 0:09:41What started as a hobby is now a successful business,

0:09:41 > 0:09:43with her lamb being sold in a farm shop

0:09:43 > 0:09:46and supplied to three of the best local restaurants.

0:09:46 > 0:09:48- Hi, David. - Hello, are you all right?

0:09:48 > 0:09:51- Yes, thank you, how are you? - Very well, thank you.

0:09:51 > 0:09:53In fact, local chef David Wykes was

0:09:53 > 0:09:57so impressed that he's added lamb to the menu in his fish restaurant.

0:09:57 > 0:10:01The lamb fits into our sort of ethos of dishes very well,

0:10:01 > 0:10:03because the quality is second to none,

0:10:03 > 0:10:06so it wouldn't be on unless the quality was amazing.

0:10:06 > 0:10:08People buy into the locality of the dish.

0:10:08 > 0:10:10It'd probably be more local than a lot of the fish

0:10:10 > 0:10:12that's caught in the Solent because

0:10:12 > 0:10:13the farm is just less than a mile away.

0:10:13 > 0:10:16And David has spent some time preparing a slow-cooked dish

0:10:16 > 0:10:18to showcase Lisa's lamb.

0:10:18 > 0:10:21- Look at that.- That's amazing. Thank you.

0:10:21 > 0:10:23It's a really interesting combination

0:10:23 > 0:10:27because you've got the lamb which is obviously an earthy flavour,

0:10:27 > 0:10:31but it's also got some really interesting flavours of the sea.

0:10:31 > 0:10:33It's really exciting to think that my lamb

0:10:33 > 0:10:35could be made into such an amazing dish.

0:10:41 > 0:10:43I love to hear about quality food that's produced

0:10:43 > 0:10:45so close to my home in Hampshire.

0:10:47 > 0:10:51So, I've invited Lisa and Simeon over for lunch at my house,

0:10:51 > 0:10:54and I'll be showing them my favourite way to slow-cook lamb.

0:10:56 > 0:10:59So, how did lamb end up on your farm? Cos you're an arable farmer.

0:10:59 > 0:11:02Yeah, I'm an arable farmer, but Lisa always wanted sheep,

0:11:02 > 0:11:05so for her 40th birthday, sheep is what she got.

0:11:05 > 0:11:07Slightly different.

0:11:07 > 0:11:08- Yeah.- Slightly different, yeah.

0:11:08 > 0:11:11Didn't want jewellery or anything else like that?

0:11:11 > 0:11:14No, no, no. I've always admired these sheep and he wouldn't...

0:11:14 > 0:11:16He kept saying no. Then he really surprised me.

0:11:16 > 0:11:20I had no idea they were coming and they were really

0:11:20 > 0:11:25bought as lawn mowers to start with and as a hobby for me.

0:11:25 > 0:11:29But it has obviously grown into something much more than that.

0:11:29 > 0:11:31I've got an exotic twist on slow-cooked lamb,

0:11:31 > 0:11:35with a dish that will give your spice rack a real workout.

0:11:36 > 0:11:41It's my Indian spiced lamb shoulder with Bombay potatoes.

0:11:41 > 0:11:44Normally with curries you dice it all up but this,

0:11:44 > 0:11:47I'm just going to throw the whole lot in, so it's long slow-cooking,

0:11:47 > 0:11:49about four hours it takes.

0:11:49 > 0:11:52Before you cook the lamb, you need to make the mix of no fewer

0:11:52 > 0:11:55than nine spices to flavour the curry.

0:11:55 > 0:11:59Start by adding cloves, fenugreek seeds, chilli flakes,

0:11:59 > 0:12:01and a cinnamon stick to the grinder.

0:12:02 > 0:12:04We're going to toast off two of them,

0:12:04 > 0:12:07just to get the oils going out the spices.

0:12:07 > 0:12:10Put the cumin and coriander seeds into a dry pan and let them

0:12:10 > 0:12:12toast for about two minutes.

0:12:14 > 0:12:16Then add the toasted spices, fennel seeds,

0:12:16 > 0:12:21and black peppercorns into the grinder before blitzing the lot.

0:12:21 > 0:12:24And once it's powdered, throw in the turmeric.

0:12:24 > 0:12:27And then it's time to turn your attention to the lamb itself.

0:12:27 > 0:12:31Straightaway, I can tell this is sort of an older lamb, really,

0:12:31 > 0:12:34- because of the colour, fundamentally.- Mm-hmm.

0:12:34 > 0:12:36Does that sort of... I mean, once people taste it, it's fine,

0:12:36 > 0:12:39but people looking at this would think, "Well, you know,

0:12:39 > 0:12:41"that is not the colour of lamb that it should be."

0:12:41 > 0:12:44Yeah, we have to educate people a little bit about the change

0:12:44 > 0:12:48of the colour and the fact that it is taken on longer

0:12:48 > 0:12:53in the process, but it certainly has more flavour, we believe.

0:12:53 > 0:12:56The next step is to add this generous lamb joint to

0:12:56 > 0:12:58a large casserole dish and sear it.

0:12:59 > 0:13:01This is almost at the stage of sort of hogget,

0:13:01 > 0:13:03- isn't it really, this one. - Yes, yes, yes.

0:13:03 > 0:13:07This particular breed of sheep, they're very slow growing

0:13:07 > 0:13:12and their breed characteristic is very lean meat.

0:13:12 > 0:13:16They're an extensive breed, so then we take them to very nearly

0:13:16 > 0:13:19hogget, to nearly to a year old, if not just over, to get that

0:13:19 > 0:13:21extra flavour and they... If you take them too early,

0:13:21 > 0:13:24they don't finish. You don't get any fat coverage at all

0:13:24 > 0:13:26cos they stay so lean.

0:13:26 > 0:13:30Next, you'll need to make the curry sauce that the lamb will cook in.

0:13:30 > 0:13:32Start by adding a finely chopped onion

0:13:32 > 0:13:36and chopped green chilli to the pan you've seared the lamb in.

0:13:36 > 0:13:40Follow on with garlic and ginger, then the spice mix.

0:13:40 > 0:13:42So out of all the cuts of meat you get from the lamb,

0:13:42 > 0:13:45and you get such a variety, it's like pigs really,

0:13:45 > 0:13:47you can use the entire carcass, what's your favourite?

0:13:47 > 0:13:52I think probably the shoulder is one that I do the slow-cooking

0:13:52 > 0:13:55quite often and I really enjoy mutton leg steaks as well.

0:13:55 > 0:13:58- Mutton leg steaks?- Yeah.- You can cook those on the barbecue

0:13:58 > 0:14:01- really nicely as well, can't you? - Yes, just, they're so easy to cook.

0:14:01 > 0:14:03You know, everyone thinks mutton needs to be cooked

0:14:03 > 0:14:06for hours and hours. I actually prefer mutton leg steaks

0:14:06 > 0:14:08- to beef steak now.- But it's still got this perception,

0:14:08 > 0:14:10hasn't it, mutton, really? I don't know what it is,

0:14:10 > 0:14:13- cos it's packed full of flavour, but...- Yeah, definitely.

0:14:13 > 0:14:16When the onion and spices have cooked for two minutes or so,

0:14:16 > 0:14:20add the torn curry leaves and crushed cardamom pods.

0:14:20 > 0:14:23And then I'm going to use this. It's quite an unusual thing to put in

0:14:23 > 0:14:26with this. Generally, I would use this with duck. This is tamarind.

0:14:26 > 0:14:28I don't know if you've ever tried it before.

0:14:28 > 0:14:31It is fantastic sort of stuff when you put it in curries,

0:14:31 > 0:14:32particularly at the beginning.

0:14:32 > 0:14:34I've had this sort of stuff on my travels.

0:14:34 > 0:14:37It goes particularly well if you're going to add coconut to that.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40But what I'm going to do is add some tomatoes

0:14:40 > 0:14:44and use tinned tomatoes as a base together with some stock.

0:14:44 > 0:14:46Throw them in as well.

0:14:46 > 0:14:48I'm also adding a litre of lamb stock to the pot,

0:14:48 > 0:14:50but you can use beef stock instead.

0:14:52 > 0:14:53And then what you do is grab the lamb.

0:14:53 > 0:14:55That's one of the great things with this,

0:14:55 > 0:14:59you just basically cook the entire lot in the pot.

0:14:59 > 0:15:01Cover this over, stick the lid on it,

0:15:01 > 0:15:05and what you want to do is cook this slowly for four hours.

0:15:05 > 0:15:08Now, I don't need to leave you to wait for four hours cos I've

0:15:08 > 0:15:11got one in there. But I'll leave that to one side.

0:15:11 > 0:15:15You can cook it on the stove, so you could just basically bring

0:15:15 > 0:15:18it to the boil, leave it gently simmering for about four hours.

0:15:21 > 0:15:22You can eat this with rice

0:15:22 > 0:15:25but I prefer to serve it with spicy Bombay potatoes.

0:15:27 > 0:15:29Start by boiling cubed potatoes

0:15:29 > 0:15:32and finely chop a clove of garlic and an onion.

0:15:32 > 0:15:34Now I believe you've got a farm shop as well

0:15:34 > 0:15:36- that you've got hand in hand with this.- I have.

0:15:36 > 0:15:39It's slightly unusual. It's a pop-up farm shop.

0:15:39 > 0:15:42We only open two days a month at the moment which fits.

0:15:42 > 0:15:45- Two days a month?- Yeah. - Well, you've got to be quick then,

0:15:45 > 0:15:47- haven't you, really? - You have got to be quick.

0:15:48 > 0:15:50Ground coriander, cumin, mustard seeds,

0:15:50 > 0:15:54turmeric and chilli powder go into the pan with the onion and garlic.

0:15:54 > 0:15:56It's a lot more intensive than arable farming.

0:15:56 > 0:15:59At least with arable farming you can sort of chill out on an evening

0:15:59 > 0:16:03and relax. But I mean, you must have found it sort of changed your life

0:16:03 > 0:16:05- really, I suppose.- Yeah. It does have intense periods of work.

0:16:05 > 0:16:08Obviously, lambing time is full-on.

0:16:08 > 0:16:10But at the same time it's very rewarding,

0:16:10 > 0:16:14so you know, if you'd asked me ten years ago would I be a sheep

0:16:14 > 0:16:18and arable farmer, I probably would have said, "No, don't be so silly."

0:16:19 > 0:16:22Once tinned tomatoes have gone in, add the cooked potatoes

0:16:22 > 0:16:25and simmer for another three to five minutes.

0:16:32 > 0:16:34The lamb is almost done.

0:16:34 > 0:16:38All I'm going to do now is add just two little herbs to go with it

0:16:38 > 0:16:41and mint obviously is the one that you want to do with lamb,

0:16:41 > 0:16:44but I'm going to put some coriander in there as well.

0:16:44 > 0:16:46So throw a little bit in there,

0:16:46 > 0:16:48a little bit in here,

0:16:48 > 0:16:54and you can see, as the lamb cooks, it just falls apart in the pot

0:16:54 > 0:16:57and then you can take your chunks of bone out, like that.

0:16:57 > 0:17:00There's no fanciness with this, no poncing around.

0:17:02 > 0:17:04Before you've even tasted this dish, you know

0:17:04 > 0:17:08you're in for a treat because all those spices.

0:17:08 > 0:17:12It makes it smell absolutely amazing.

0:17:12 > 0:17:15It's one of those things that you just put it in the pot

0:17:15 > 0:17:16and forget about it.

0:17:16 > 0:17:20Because it's a curry, it just gets better and better and better

0:17:20 > 0:17:22the more you leave it.

0:17:22 > 0:17:23Try that. Tell me what you think.

0:17:27 > 0:17:28Oh, it's really good.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32All in all it adds up to a slow-cooked meal

0:17:32 > 0:17:34that's bursting with flavour.

0:17:37 > 0:17:41See, I thought in this job I'd seen everything and tasted a lot, but

0:17:41 > 0:17:45it's amazing that 15 miles down the road, you get lamb as good as this.

0:17:45 > 0:17:47I've never tasted lamb as good as that.

0:17:47 > 0:17:49Cooked very well. Very good lamb, cooked very well.

0:17:49 > 0:17:52Yeah, but your shop needs to be open more than two days a month.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55- Yeah, well, that's coming...- Good. - ..when he buys me some more sheep.

0:17:55 > 0:17:57- THEY LAUGH - I'll be first in the queue.

0:18:07 > 0:18:11Slow-cooking is an excuse for us to take our foot off the gas a bit.

0:18:11 > 0:18:14It's just a matter of throwing a few ingredients together,

0:18:14 > 0:18:17leaving them to simmer, and chilling out until dinner's ready.

0:18:20 > 0:18:24Food historian Ivan Day has trawled through old recipe books,

0:18:24 > 0:18:27to find an 18th-century take on this more relaxed approach

0:18:27 > 0:18:29to food preparation.

0:18:32 > 0:18:37One of the most ancient forms of slow-cooking is braising,

0:18:37 > 0:18:41which I think most people today would understand as a very slow form

0:18:41 > 0:18:44of cooking in a very, very tightly sealed casserole or saucepan.

0:18:44 > 0:18:48In the past, it was done in a very different way,

0:18:48 > 0:18:52and one of the aims was to cook as slowly as you could,

0:18:52 > 0:18:55but with the smallest amount of fuel.

0:18:57 > 0:19:00I'm going to use a recipe from the 18th century,

0:19:00 > 0:19:04from a truly remarkable book,

0:19:04 > 0:19:11which has the slightly worrying title of The Whole Duty Of A Woman.

0:19:12 > 0:19:15Only about half the book is cookery.

0:19:15 > 0:19:20The other half is to tell women how to behave themselves.

0:19:21 > 0:19:25The recipe I'm going to use is called fowl a la braise.

0:19:27 > 0:19:29Fowl is simply a chicken.

0:19:29 > 0:19:32But let me show you what the 'a la braise' bit means.

0:19:38 > 0:19:40Before the chicken was braised,

0:19:40 > 0:19:45the Georgian cook would practice the ancient art of larding.

0:19:45 > 0:19:47This is a larding pin

0:19:47 > 0:19:54and under here I have some little matchstick strips of bacon fat

0:19:54 > 0:20:00and I'm going to very carefully put one of these into the larding pin.

0:20:00 > 0:20:05So what I do is put the pin through and then hopefully

0:20:05 > 0:20:11if I hold on to this end, it should pop out the other side.

0:20:13 > 0:20:15Larding is a very old technique.

0:20:15 > 0:20:19The earliest records we have are in medieval cookery books.

0:20:19 > 0:20:23Its original purpose was to add succulence to dry meats

0:20:23 > 0:20:27like hare, venison, other game birds, which are lacking in fat.

0:20:27 > 0:20:31As it cooks, the fat melts and it self-bastes.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37When the chicken had been larded, a braising pan was lined with

0:20:37 > 0:20:41butter, bacon and thin strips of veal.

0:20:41 > 0:20:44By putting this meat in the bottom, it will brown with

0:20:44 > 0:20:50the heat of the charcoal, and create its own very nice dark gravy.

0:20:50 > 0:20:53Then it's very simply a case of popping

0:20:53 > 0:20:56the fowl into the middle of the braising pan.

0:20:58 > 0:20:59Everything was braised.

0:20:59 > 0:21:02A whole ham could be braised, a turkey,

0:21:02 > 0:21:06and some of the braising pans are absolutely enormous.

0:21:06 > 0:21:09The recipe suggested adding herbs like basil,

0:21:09 > 0:21:12thyme and bay leaf, along with a piece of bacon for added flavour.

0:21:14 > 0:21:16Onions and a small amount of garlic were then

0:21:16 > 0:21:21sprinkled on top of the chicken before stock was poured in.

0:21:21 > 0:21:24So it's time to put the lid on now.

0:21:24 > 0:21:26It only goes on one way.

0:21:26 > 0:21:28It's got to be really snugly on.

0:21:33 > 0:21:36Once the pot came to the boil, a glass of wine was poured in.

0:21:40 > 0:21:44The lid was put back and then the fun really started.

0:21:45 > 0:21:48Fire shovel, hot charcoal.

0:21:49 > 0:21:52Let me show you how it works.

0:21:52 > 0:21:55So we've got fire underneath and fire on top.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58It's going to get super-heated, the pressure's going to build up,

0:21:58 > 0:22:01cos the lid is so tightly sealed, but it's going to cook very,

0:22:01 > 0:22:04very slowly, so it's going to be succulent,

0:22:04 > 0:22:06juicy, and full of flavour.

0:22:13 > 0:22:16It'll sit there maybe for about two hours

0:22:16 > 0:22:18until the fowl is perfectly cooked.

0:22:28 > 0:22:33While the chicken cooks, Ivan can put his feet up with a good read.

0:22:33 > 0:22:35But I'm not sure his book of Georgian recipes

0:22:35 > 0:22:39and etiquette would top the bestseller list these days.

0:22:39 > 0:22:43The title of this book is The Whole Duty Of A Woman.

0:22:43 > 0:22:49This book was written in a very different world to ours.

0:22:49 > 0:22:53Compared to attitudes to women that we have now,

0:22:53 > 0:22:57the Georgians had a very different approach.

0:22:57 > 0:22:59So, listen to this -

0:22:59 > 0:23:06"An old maid is now thought such a curse as no poetic fury can exceed."

0:23:06 > 0:23:09So if you're out there and you're a young woman in the Georgian period,

0:23:09 > 0:23:13for goodness' sake, find yourself a husband, otherwise you're doomed.

0:23:22 > 0:23:25Of course, it was the whole duty of a woman of any

0:23:25 > 0:23:28household in Britain at this time to make sure that her

0:23:28 > 0:23:32husband's food was not only well dressed, but beautifully presented.

0:23:35 > 0:23:39The all-important decoration consisted of cooked turnip,

0:23:39 > 0:23:43a sprinkling of parsley, and an eye-catching Georgian delicacy.

0:23:44 > 0:23:47These mysterious things were really popular.

0:23:47 > 0:23:51They're pickled barberries, which is a British native fruit that

0:23:51 > 0:23:54was grown in just about every garden in the 18th century.

0:23:54 > 0:23:59They were so popular because of their very bright scarlet colour.

0:23:59 > 0:24:02The recipe gives us various options for sauces.

0:24:02 > 0:24:06I'm going for one which they call a ham coulis.

0:24:11 > 0:24:14Let's see what this chicken a la braise is like.

0:24:21 > 0:24:24It's about the best chicken I've ever eaten, actually. Truly.

0:24:24 > 0:24:27It's a pity that braising of this kind has vanished

0:24:27 > 0:24:29cos the end result is superb.

0:24:35 > 0:24:40There's nothing in this world that beats a British steamed pudding.

0:24:40 > 0:24:41But you can't hurry perfection.

0:24:41 > 0:24:44They taste good because they're cooked slowly.

0:24:46 > 0:24:49My gran's puds were the best I've ever had and I base

0:24:49 > 0:24:53my blueberry steamed pudding with vanilla custard on her recipe.

0:24:55 > 0:24:59Now if you ask me, all the best puddings in the world are always

0:24:59 > 0:25:02the ones that are slow-cooked and one in particular,

0:25:02 > 0:25:06which is definitely my favourite, has to be sponge pudding.

0:25:06 > 0:25:08Now the benefit of this one is I've got some fresh fruit

0:25:08 > 0:25:11from the garden, so you can use blueberries, raspberries,

0:25:11 > 0:25:14strawberries, it's entirely up to you.

0:25:15 > 0:25:19First add 175 grams of softened butter to a bowl with

0:25:19 > 0:25:23the same quantity of both self-raising flour and sugar.

0:25:23 > 0:25:26The important thing is I'm going to use this light brown sugar,

0:25:26 > 0:25:29which I kind of... Every time I taste it...

0:25:29 > 0:25:30I call it Granny's sugar

0:25:30 > 0:25:32cos it's the only sugar that she used to use.

0:25:32 > 0:25:34She used to use it all the time for biscuits.

0:25:34 > 0:25:37It's got kind of a unique flavour and taste.

0:25:38 > 0:25:41Next into the mix is a pinch of salt,

0:25:41 > 0:25:43a teaspoon of baking powder and three eggs.

0:25:44 > 0:25:47Then whisk it all together until it's light and fluffy.

0:25:56 > 0:26:00So really it's like a standard bun mixture, I suppose.

0:26:00 > 0:26:03You've got the texture very similar to that.

0:26:03 > 0:26:05It's pretty good to me. Now for our bowl.

0:26:05 > 0:26:08Exactly the same bowl as what my granny used to use.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10You need to butter it really well

0:26:10 > 0:26:13and this is why I blame her for my butter fetish, I think.

0:26:14 > 0:26:16Because you get a little bit of butter.

0:26:19 > 0:26:22That is a properly buttered dish.

0:26:24 > 0:26:26Then we're going to use some golden syrup.

0:26:26 > 0:26:28You can use black treacle for this

0:26:28 > 0:26:31but golden syrup really does work a treat, particularly with fruit.

0:26:32 > 0:26:36You'll want to add 150 grams of golden syrup to the bowl.

0:26:36 > 0:26:40My granny used to use bucket-loads of this stuff

0:26:40 > 0:26:44cos she used to make the most amazing parkin,

0:26:44 > 0:26:48which is kind of like a cake that us Yorkshire folk

0:26:48 > 0:26:50have around Bonfire Night.

0:26:50 > 0:26:52It's kind of like sticky toffee pudding

0:26:52 > 0:26:54made with oats and golden syrup.

0:26:55 > 0:26:59So, put the blueberries in and then we can top it...

0:27:00 > 0:27:02..with this lovely sponge.

0:27:06 > 0:27:09Of course, you have to seal the top of the pudding bowl,

0:27:09 > 0:27:11and to do that you lay a piece of grease-proof

0:27:11 > 0:27:14paper on a sheet of tinfoil that's the same size.

0:27:17 > 0:27:21Even though it's grease-proof, you still take some butter over the top.

0:27:22 > 0:27:25Then you make a crease in the centre of both sheets,

0:27:25 > 0:27:26so that there's a slight overlap.

0:27:28 > 0:27:31And the idea behind this is there's just a little bit of give in this.

0:27:31 > 0:27:34You don't want it too tight, otherwise it compresses it

0:27:34 > 0:27:37and it makes the sponge too tough.

0:27:37 > 0:27:40And this is the bit, the only bit that my gran would let me do

0:27:40 > 0:27:43when I was younger, so I've had a bit of practice.

0:27:43 > 0:27:45Hold the foil cover in place by tying

0:27:45 > 0:27:48a piece of string around the top of the pudding bowl.

0:27:50 > 0:27:54To steam the pudding, I half fill a large saucepan with cold water.

0:27:55 > 0:27:57Then use my gran's old trick of putting

0:27:57 > 0:28:02a cloth into the bottom of the pan with an upturned plate on top of it.

0:28:02 > 0:28:05And if you do this, it just allows the sponge to come

0:28:05 > 0:28:09away from the water, but mainly away from the base of the pan.

0:28:09 > 0:28:11But another trick she had,

0:28:11 > 0:28:13she was full of them,

0:28:13 > 0:28:16is then take another sheet of tinfoil

0:28:16 > 0:28:20and just fold this up into sort of a long piece

0:28:20 > 0:28:25and the idea being you just place this in the bottom

0:28:25 > 0:28:30like this, and then when you pop your pudding in,

0:28:31 > 0:28:35it's much easier to take it out afterwards.

0:28:35 > 0:28:36How cool is that?

0:28:37 > 0:28:40Then all you need to do is cover it, bring it to the boil,

0:28:40 > 0:28:45and simmer for two hours, making sure you top up the water as needed.

0:28:45 > 0:28:47Now I'm going to serve this with a custard.

0:28:47 > 0:28:51Now, even though we're in Yorkshire, back then, some 20 years ago,

0:28:51 > 0:28:54my granny still used to make custard properly.

0:28:56 > 0:28:59The recipe stays exactly the same.

0:28:59 > 0:29:03Full fat double cream, full fat milk.

0:29:03 > 0:29:05There's no skimping with this recipe.

0:29:05 > 0:29:09You need to use 250 mls of both cream and milk.

0:29:10 > 0:29:12Basically you heat this up with some vanilla.

0:29:12 > 0:29:14Now, I'm being quite fancy with this stuff.

0:29:14 > 0:29:18This is Bourbon vanilla, it comes from Madagascar. Soft vanilla pods.

0:29:18 > 0:29:21This stuff is quite expensive, but if you buy the big fat pods,

0:29:21 > 0:29:26the Bourbon vanilla, you get much more value for your money.

0:29:26 > 0:29:29Remove the seeds from the vanilla pod and add both to the milk

0:29:29 > 0:29:31and the cream.

0:29:31 > 0:29:35Then leave it on a medium heat until it comes to the boil.

0:29:35 > 0:29:38And then we're going to combine that with a mixture of sugar and eggs

0:29:38 > 0:29:41and the amount of eggs is actually quite important

0:29:41 > 0:29:44because that's how much the custard sets.

0:29:44 > 0:29:47So for this I'm going to use about six eggs, really,

0:29:47 > 0:29:49and I just want the yolks.

0:29:49 > 0:29:52And it's much easier to separate them like this.

0:29:52 > 0:29:54There's no need for fancy kitchen gadgets.

0:29:54 > 0:29:57There's definitely no need for this palaver...

0:29:57 > 0:30:00all this shell to shell business.

0:30:02 > 0:30:04When you've separated the eggs,

0:30:04 > 0:30:08whisk in the yolks with 110 grams of caster sugar, and then

0:30:08 > 0:30:12when the milk and cream mixture is boiled, add it and keep stirring.

0:30:17 > 0:30:20And then we pour this back into the pan.

0:30:20 > 0:30:21Now this is the crucial bit.

0:30:21 > 0:30:24You want to warm this enough to thicken.

0:30:24 > 0:30:26You certainly don't want to boil it.

0:30:26 > 0:30:28If you boil it, you end up with scrambled eggs.

0:30:28 > 0:30:30Keep your eye on it.

0:30:30 > 0:30:32It starts to thicken up

0:30:32 > 0:30:37and as it starts to coat the back of the spoon, it's just about ready.

0:30:37 > 0:30:41All we can do is literally just pour this back into the bowl

0:30:41 > 0:30:44and you can see the texture's totally changed.

0:30:45 > 0:30:48All you need to do now is let the custard cool

0:30:48 > 0:30:50and leave the sponge steaming.

0:30:50 > 0:30:53That gives me precious time to catch up on the gardening.

0:30:59 > 0:31:02And after that, I'm more than ready for a bowl of delicious pudding.

0:31:05 > 0:31:09Oh-oh-oh! Look at that!

0:31:09 > 0:31:10Mm-mm-mm!

0:31:13 > 0:31:17This is proper home cooking, slow-cooking at its best, really.

0:31:19 > 0:31:23This is a pud that's full of comforting flavours I love -

0:31:23 > 0:31:28soft, squidgy sponge, delicious fruit and sticky golden syrup,

0:31:28 > 0:31:32all topped off with a creamy home-made custard.

0:31:33 > 0:31:37You see, I love watching cookery programmes because

0:31:37 > 0:31:39when you're supposed to be tasting this,

0:31:39 > 0:31:42you're supposed to be saying how delicious it is.

0:31:44 > 0:31:45I don't need to.

0:31:53 > 0:31:55Because we're always on the go these days,

0:31:55 > 0:31:58many of us can't prepare time-consuming dishes.

0:32:03 > 0:32:06Fortunately, there are a growing band of home-based UK producers

0:32:06 > 0:32:09putting in the hours, so that we don't have to.

0:32:12 > 0:32:14In Leeds, Philippa Quayle grafts so we can enjoy

0:32:14 > 0:32:18the pleasures of her award-winning handcrafted marshmallows.

0:32:20 > 0:32:23I first started making marshmallows after watching it on the TV

0:32:23 > 0:32:26one evening and people were making marshmallows by hand

0:32:26 > 0:32:29and they weren't... They were making them with different flavours

0:32:29 > 0:32:32and different sizes and I thought, "Wow."

0:32:32 > 0:32:35I just stared at this programme thinking, "I love marshmallows

0:32:35 > 0:32:39"and I have never been able to taste anything like this before."

0:32:39 > 0:32:43So that greedy little part of me thought, "I want to eat those."

0:32:43 > 0:32:45And then the experimental creative side of me said,

0:32:45 > 0:32:47"Right, well, I'm going to have to make them, then."

0:32:47 > 0:32:51So, voila, my little business was born.

0:32:53 > 0:32:56And her little business has quickly expanded

0:32:56 > 0:33:01and now supplies a range of ten flavours to shops all over the UK.

0:33:01 > 0:33:04The main ingredients Philippa uses for her marshmallow are sugar,

0:33:04 > 0:33:07water, glucose and gelatine.

0:33:07 > 0:33:11And this is one cooking process that can't be rushed.

0:33:11 > 0:33:14I wasn't really aware of how long it was going to take me.

0:33:14 > 0:33:18From boiling the sugar to having my finished product in its packet

0:33:18 > 0:33:22and ready to go is actually three days, which is amazing.

0:33:23 > 0:33:27So, that's one day for making up the mixture, another day allowing

0:33:27 > 0:33:31the marshmallows to set and another day to allow the pieces to dry out!

0:33:31 > 0:33:35Philippa can't afford to make any mistakes.

0:33:35 > 0:33:38I like to be really precise cos I know there's

0:33:38 > 0:33:41so much chemistry involved in marshmallow making.

0:33:41 > 0:33:46If you just change one of the ingredients or the weight

0:33:46 > 0:33:50of one of the ingredients, strange things can happen.

0:33:50 > 0:33:53So, I've found my recipe and I stick to it.

0:33:55 > 0:33:59So, I'm just going to put the heat on, full blast.

0:34:01 > 0:34:04The mixture then needs heating to exactly 160 degrees

0:34:04 > 0:34:08to allow the mallow to have the perfect texture.

0:34:08 > 0:34:12I can look into the sugar and it's starting to bubble and boil.

0:34:12 > 0:34:15It's mesmerising. It's the way sometimes you look at clouds

0:34:15 > 0:34:18or sometimes you stare into a fire and, you know, you kind of

0:34:18 > 0:34:22just drift away for a second or two.

0:34:22 > 0:34:24And often in that second or two is

0:34:24 > 0:34:29when an idea can start developing, so it's quite a creative experience.

0:34:29 > 0:34:33And when you're making things from the comfort of your own home,

0:34:33 > 0:34:35there's always room for a bit of experimentation.

0:34:37 > 0:34:41Today, Philippa is making a new mango and passion fruit recipe that

0:34:41 > 0:34:44she's going to try out on the public a little later on.

0:34:50 > 0:34:52Philippa adds gelatine to the mango puree

0:34:52 > 0:34:55to ensure that the marshmallows have plenty of bounce.

0:34:55 > 0:34:59In it goes. It smells amazing.

0:34:59 > 0:35:05Mm, and that's really lovely mango-y sugar syrup that will whip up

0:35:05 > 0:35:08into a marshmallow fluff.

0:35:08 > 0:35:11To whisk in her bubbles, Philippa has invested in some equipment

0:35:11 > 0:35:14she houses in the family garage.

0:35:14 > 0:35:18But this industrial kit doesn't mean her artisan produce has lost

0:35:18 > 0:35:19that personal touch.

0:35:20 > 0:35:23I'm measuring out passion fruit here.

0:35:23 > 0:35:26It's a freeze-dried fruit powder and it's really zingy.

0:35:26 > 0:35:28It gives a lovely flavour.

0:35:28 > 0:35:31In fact, if you were to eat the freeze-dried fruit powder

0:35:31 > 0:35:33straight off, it's like sherbet.

0:35:40 > 0:35:43This is just a passion fruit paste that I'm making now.

0:35:43 > 0:35:47I'm rippling this through and it gives it quite a nice texture on

0:35:47 > 0:35:50top and it just means that when you cut them, they're not all the same.

0:35:50 > 0:35:53They all look a bit different, each piece, which is

0:35:53 > 0:35:56nice because the ones that are mass-produced in the factories,

0:35:56 > 0:35:58they all look exactly the same.

0:35:58 > 0:36:01These ones have got their own little personality,

0:36:01 > 0:36:03which I think is quite nice.

0:36:04 > 0:36:09So, that's the marshmallows made now and they'll be puffy

0:36:09 > 0:36:11and squashy and delicious by tomorrow.

0:36:14 > 0:36:17By the morning of day two, the marshmallow has set

0:36:17 > 0:36:19and is ready for the next stage.

0:36:21 > 0:36:25It is just like one big, puffy pillow of deliciousness.

0:36:27 > 0:36:30Philippa chops it up into generous bite-sized chunks.

0:36:30 > 0:36:33It's like as if you were to cut through a cloud,

0:36:33 > 0:36:35that's what it would sound like.

0:36:37 > 0:36:40They're lovely and light and fluffy now and if you actually

0:36:40 > 0:36:43picked one up and gave it a little squeeze, it's nice and bouncy.

0:36:45 > 0:36:48But before they are ready to eat, Philippa's marshmallow

0:36:48 > 0:36:52cubes must be left to dry out for another 24 hours.

0:36:53 > 0:36:57Only then will these mango and passion fruit marshmallows be

0:36:57 > 0:37:00good enough to road test at a nearby cafe.

0:37:00 > 0:37:03Let's hope all this waiting has been worthwhile.

0:37:03 > 0:37:07I'm going to start offering them around. Let's see what people think.

0:37:07 > 0:37:09Anybody want to try a new flavour?

0:37:09 > 0:37:11Oh, yeah. Mm.

0:37:11 > 0:37:14- Yeah?- That is gorgeous.

0:37:14 > 0:37:17- Fruity?- Loads of passion fruit. - Yeah, yeah.- Really good.

0:37:17 > 0:37:20Mm. That is really, really nice.

0:37:20 > 0:37:25Just seeing people's reactions when they eat them is awesome.

0:37:25 > 0:37:29And the fact that I now supply so many shops and delis

0:37:29 > 0:37:33and farm shops around the UK is just amazing,

0:37:33 > 0:37:37and from watching TV and giving it a go and creating my own business,

0:37:37 > 0:37:40I just never would have dreamed this would happen.

0:37:46 > 0:37:48Waiting can be very rewarding, and for me,

0:37:48 > 0:37:51nothing beats a peaceful day spent fishing.

0:37:51 > 0:37:54It forces me to slow right down and take it easy.

0:37:56 > 0:38:00Most people see fish as an ingredient that's cooked in a flash.

0:38:00 > 0:38:03But one of my favourite recipes takes a much slower approach

0:38:03 > 0:38:05and the results are delicious.

0:38:07 > 0:38:10It's my home-smoked trout with feta salad.

0:38:12 > 0:38:15Now for me, curing is one of the best forms of slow-cooking.

0:38:15 > 0:38:18It is actually a form of cooking because the sugar

0:38:18 > 0:38:21and the salt actually seeps into the meat and preserves it.

0:38:22 > 0:38:25For this recipe, you'll need two large trout fillets.

0:38:25 > 0:38:28Now, whenever you're smoking anything,

0:38:28 > 0:38:30particularly the way that I'm going to do it like this

0:38:30 > 0:38:33which is cold smoking, you must cure it first.

0:38:33 > 0:38:36The cure for the fish is made from 200 grams of sea salt

0:38:36 > 0:38:39and 100 grams of sugar.

0:38:39 > 0:38:42Generally using caster sugar and I've seen a lot of people use black

0:38:42 > 0:38:47treacle in this as well, which makes the fish go really dark in colour.

0:38:47 > 0:38:50The next step is to lay out two large pieces of clingfilm

0:38:50 > 0:38:52on to your work surface.

0:38:52 > 0:38:56Then, using a quarter of the curing mixture, make a line in the centre.

0:38:59 > 0:39:03And then taking a fillet, lay that skin side down

0:39:03 > 0:39:06and then just gently sprinkle this over the top.

0:39:06 > 0:39:09Now what's going to happen with this, once it goes in the fridge,

0:39:09 > 0:39:12it actually draws out the moisture of the fish.

0:39:12 > 0:39:15Once it's wrapped up in the clingfilm,

0:39:15 > 0:39:18it'll need to stay in the fridge for 12 to 24 hours.

0:39:18 > 0:39:21When it comes out, the first thing you need to do

0:39:21 > 0:39:23is wash off the excess salt and sugar.

0:39:25 > 0:39:28I can feel already the texture starts to change

0:39:28 > 0:39:31and it almost resembles that sort of smoked salmon that you get.

0:39:31 > 0:39:36Slightly firmer. It's not as if it's cooked, otherwise it'd be soft.

0:39:36 > 0:39:38It's just firmer to the touch, particularly the skin.

0:39:38 > 0:39:42What I'm going to do is smoke it using a DIY smoker.

0:39:42 > 0:39:45Now you can make it with one of these.

0:39:45 > 0:39:48These old bins, a few bricks, a candle

0:39:48 > 0:39:50and a little bit of imagination.

0:39:50 > 0:39:53Yep, you'll need a little bit of imagination

0:39:53 > 0:39:55and a little bit of outdoor space.

0:39:55 > 0:39:57Don't try doing this indoors.

0:39:57 > 0:40:01Start by putting candles or tea lights on to the ground,

0:40:01 > 0:40:03then surround them with bricks.

0:40:03 > 0:40:07Now you'll need this particularly if it's windy.

0:40:07 > 0:40:10I never thought in my wildest dreams, when I started cooking

0:40:10 > 0:40:13when I was eight years old, I would be doing this.

0:40:13 > 0:40:15My mum told me never to play with matches.

0:40:15 > 0:40:17So, I always use a blowtorch.

0:40:17 > 0:40:21Light the candles, before putting the bin over the flames.

0:40:21 > 0:40:23Now you need ones with holes in the bottom, all right?

0:40:23 > 0:40:26It's really quite important cos you want air flow in here as well,

0:40:26 > 0:40:29so stick them on the bricks. And then, in the bottom,

0:40:29 > 0:40:33just going to use a little bit of tinfoil.

0:40:33 > 0:40:35What the tinfoil will do is actually prevent the wood

0:40:35 > 0:40:40from going through the holes, hitting the flame and creating fire.

0:40:40 > 0:40:43The key to getting a great smoked flavour is using oak chippings,

0:40:43 > 0:40:45which you can buy online.

0:40:45 > 0:40:48All you do now is just sprinkle these on the base

0:40:48 > 0:40:54and then what I do is grab a little bit of water, just a touch,

0:40:54 > 0:40:57and just sprinkle the water in the bottom.

0:40:57 > 0:41:00It's all it needs to help it on its way because what you want to

0:41:00 > 0:41:02do with this is just smoulder it first of all.

0:41:02 > 0:41:06If it's too dry, it kind of can catch fire.

0:41:06 > 0:41:09And then finally just stick a barbecue grill

0:41:09 > 0:41:11on the top of the bin and place the fish fillets on top.

0:41:14 > 0:41:17And then, lid on...

0:41:18 > 0:41:20..with a cloth over the top because, as it smokes up,

0:41:20 > 0:41:25you want to keep all that sort of smoke in there really, as well.

0:41:26 > 0:41:30Wander off for an hour and a half and, fingers crossed,

0:41:30 > 0:41:32we should have smoked trout.

0:41:40 > 0:41:44This is fingers crossed. We have the finished article. Look at that!

0:41:46 > 0:41:51It's a beautiful, lovely piece of smoked trout.

0:41:51 > 0:41:53Smells fantastic.

0:41:55 > 0:41:59The best way to serve this is to make a simple salad of beetroot,

0:41:59 > 0:42:01feta and the sliced fish and shallots.

0:42:04 > 0:42:07And then, of course, some peppery, lovely watercress.

0:42:08 > 0:42:12The whole thing is finished off with a drizzle of herby French dressing.

0:42:14 > 0:42:18Just any garden herbs that you want, you just sprinkle that over the top.

0:42:19 > 0:42:21Although this dish takes a bit of time,

0:42:21 > 0:42:24for me, that's all part of the fun.

0:42:24 > 0:42:26And I guarantee that putting the effort in will pay off

0:42:26 > 0:42:28when you taste it for the very first time.

0:42:28 > 0:42:31What I love about this dish is you've got the pepperiness

0:42:31 > 0:42:35of the watercress, the sharpness of the onion,

0:42:35 > 0:42:38but then you've got this delicious, different texture...

0:42:41 > 0:42:42..of the home-smoked trout.

0:42:44 > 0:42:47I'm quite pleased with this. Just one word of advice -

0:42:47 > 0:42:49if you've got guests coming round for dinner,

0:42:49 > 0:42:51hide the bin.

0:42:58 > 0:43:01It's so easy these days to rely on food that's done in a flash

0:43:01 > 0:43:04and eaten just as quickly.

0:43:04 > 0:43:08But every now and then, it's worth taking a more relaxed approach.

0:43:08 > 0:43:11There are so many ingredients that taste amazing

0:43:11 > 0:43:12when they're slow-cooked.

0:43:12 > 0:43:16And you don't need lots of cheffy tricks to get great results.

0:43:16 > 0:43:19All you do need is a little time.

0:43:19 > 0:43:22You can find all the recipes from the series on: