Hearty and Wholesome

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05If there's one thing I look forward to at the end of a busy day,

0:00:05 > 0:00:08it's the thought of getting back to my kitchen at home.

0:00:10 > 0:00:14For me, nothing beats cooking some simple, heart-warming, food.

0:00:14 > 0:00:18Oh-ho-oh! It is so good.

0:00:18 > 0:00:22The kind of no nonsense grub that brings people together.

0:00:22 > 0:00:24Cheers, everyone.

0:00:26 > 0:00:28The dishes I turn to

0:00:28 > 0:00:31when I want to put a big smile on everyone's face.

0:00:33 > 0:00:35These are my home comforts.

0:00:43 > 0:00:46I live deep in the Hampshire countryside

0:00:46 > 0:00:49and I really enjoy all the space and freedom here.

0:00:49 > 0:00:52After a hectic day, I just love jumping into my car

0:00:52 > 0:00:57and driving back to the peaceful surroundings of my own house.

0:00:57 > 0:00:59Food is one of the best forms of comfort,

0:00:59 > 0:01:01and coming home to the smell of a hearty

0:01:01 > 0:01:06and wholesome meal in the oven warms me up before I've even tasted it.

0:01:06 > 0:01:09Today, we discover how a new kind of wholesome cooking

0:01:09 > 0:01:11took off in the 1930s.

0:01:11 > 0:01:14These are plain vegetable dishes, but then you take them

0:01:14 > 0:01:17and you make them extraordinary.

0:01:17 > 0:01:21We set the stage for the revival of a hearty English mustard.

0:01:21 > 0:01:23Think of William Shakespeare carrying

0:01:23 > 0:01:26one of those around with him. An amazing thought.

0:01:28 > 0:01:32And I'm in my kitchen making the wholesome food that I love best.

0:01:33 > 0:01:37To me, that's a real winter warmer, it's proper hearty food.

0:01:44 > 0:01:47When it comes to hearty and wholesome grub, you can't beat

0:01:47 > 0:01:49the amazing flavour of a piece of lamb.

0:01:55 > 0:01:58And I've come up with a recipe that turns all that richness

0:01:58 > 0:02:00into a winter warmer.

0:02:00 > 0:02:05It's my fantastically tasty lamb shank pie.

0:02:05 > 0:02:07Now, you certainly don't get any more hearty

0:02:07 > 0:02:08and wholesome than a pie,

0:02:08 > 0:02:12but this is a special pie because I'm going to make it with something

0:02:12 > 0:02:16that I've been cooking with for quite a long time, lamb shanks.

0:02:16 > 0:02:19They're a fantastic cut of meat cos they produce so much flavour.

0:02:19 > 0:02:20It's one of those things...

0:02:20 > 0:02:23That part of the animal that does the most amount of work,

0:02:23 > 0:02:26tastes the best, but it has to be the longest to cook.

0:02:26 > 0:02:28So to get the ball rolling,

0:02:28 > 0:02:32I seal my lamb shanks in a casserole dish with rapeseed oil.

0:02:33 > 0:02:36Now you want to make sure these are really well browned at this

0:02:36 > 0:02:39point because this is the only bit of food colouring that you're

0:02:39 > 0:02:42going to get into your stew.

0:02:42 > 0:02:45To get a brown stew, you have to brown the meat beforehand.

0:02:48 > 0:02:51It's the perfect portion of meat really, but what you have to

0:02:51 > 0:02:54do is treat it with respect and cook it for a long time.

0:02:54 > 0:02:57It's no good cooking lamb shanks for half an hour, they're just...

0:02:57 > 0:02:58It's going to be tough as boots.

0:03:01 > 0:03:05When the shanks are sealed, leave them to one side,

0:03:05 > 0:03:08then add two roughly chopped onions and four cloves of garlic to the

0:03:08 > 0:03:13same pan, followed a few minutes later by two tablespoons of flour.

0:03:13 > 0:03:16And really, this is where it can all go wrong, so you just use

0:03:16 > 0:03:18enough flour to thicken the sauce.

0:03:18 > 0:03:21So you've got to use just a small amount

0:03:21 > 0:03:24otherwise it's going to end up like my sort of auntie's gravy,

0:03:24 > 0:03:26thick!

0:03:27 > 0:03:30You could line cavities, you could fill cavities with it.

0:03:30 > 0:03:32So cook out the flour.

0:03:32 > 0:03:35Touch of white wine, just a little bit...

0:03:37 > 0:03:39..more.

0:03:39 > 0:03:43Pour in 250ml of white wine followed by 750ml

0:03:43 > 0:03:46of chicken stock, and then it's time for the veg.

0:03:46 > 0:03:49These lamb shanks are going to take quite a while to cook,

0:03:49 > 0:03:53a good two hours to gently simmer, so it's no good slicing the veg

0:03:53 > 0:03:56and dicing the veg into pretty small pieces.

0:03:56 > 0:04:01It's just going to dissolve, so everything you want is chunky.

0:04:06 > 0:04:09'Chop three large carrots, 600 grams of spuds

0:04:09 > 0:04:12'and four sticks of celery then add them to the pot.'

0:04:13 > 0:04:18And then some herbs and I'm going to use some rosemary and thyme.

0:04:20 > 0:04:23So just chunks of rosemary, of course that classic

0:04:23 > 0:04:27combination with rosemary and lamb, and some fresh thyme.

0:04:27 > 0:04:31'For added flavour, I throw in a couple of bay leaves.'

0:04:31 > 0:04:33And then what I love with this

0:04:33 > 0:04:35is beans and rather than...

0:04:36 > 0:04:41..get some dried beans and soak them for 24 hours,

0:04:41 > 0:04:42get them out of a can.

0:04:42 > 0:04:44Just drain them off, now it's entirely up to you which

0:04:44 > 0:04:46beans you use.

0:04:47 > 0:04:50I've got some haricot beans here, but flageolet beans will do.

0:04:52 > 0:04:56And then we can grab the lamb and pop that in.

0:04:58 > 0:05:01So ideally, what you want to do is bring this to the boil

0:05:01 > 0:05:05and gently simmer it for about two hours.

0:05:05 > 0:05:08Now you can do this on the stove or you can do it in a low oven.

0:05:08 > 0:05:10When the stew is cooked,

0:05:10 > 0:05:14let it cool because you can't add the topping when it's hot.

0:05:14 > 0:05:17And I've got one that's cold in the fridge.

0:05:17 > 0:05:21Now it's important when it does go cold to make sure that the

0:05:21 > 0:05:25lamb shanks are pointing upwards, and then let it set.

0:05:27 > 0:05:31And you can of course coat this in potato, you can do whatever

0:05:31 > 0:05:35you want on the top, but I find puff pastry the best to go with this.

0:05:40 > 0:05:45Now, it's better off to trim this first before you put it over

0:05:45 > 0:05:49the top, so measure it, it wants to be about an inch bigger than

0:05:49 > 0:05:54the size of the pot, which is about there.

0:05:55 > 0:05:56Looks pretty good.

0:05:56 > 0:05:58And you want a rough circle,

0:06:01 > 0:06:04or a hexagon, either way.

0:06:04 > 0:06:07'Your pastry will need to be about half a centimetre thick

0:06:07 > 0:06:09'and before you lay it on top of the stew

0:06:09 > 0:06:12'you'll need to brush the dish with egg wash.'

0:06:13 > 0:06:15So lift this over,

0:06:16 > 0:06:18it sits on the top

0:06:19 > 0:06:20like that.

0:06:23 > 0:06:25And then as the bones poke through,

0:06:25 > 0:06:28you can just poke them through like that.

0:06:30 > 0:06:32You can then just crimp it around the edge.

0:06:43 > 0:06:46Then brush the pastry with egg wash and sprinkle with salt before

0:06:46 > 0:06:51putting it into a preheated oven at 180 degrees for 45 to 60 minutes.

0:06:55 > 0:07:01And this is the reward for all that time that it spent ticking away,

0:07:01 > 0:07:04simmering away nicely, this wonderful pie.

0:07:06 > 0:07:09'This is a dish that drips with richness and warmth

0:07:09 > 0:07:12'and I absolutely love it.

0:07:12 > 0:07:16'It's packed with wholesome, tasty ingredients and because they simmer

0:07:16 > 0:07:20'away for so long, all the amazing flavours come together perfectly.'

0:07:22 > 0:07:26To me, that's a real winter warmer, it's proper hearty food.

0:07:26 > 0:07:30But the best part of this dish, you almost don't need a knife

0:07:30 > 0:07:34and fork, this is so tender it just falls off the bone.

0:07:34 > 0:07:36You can almost eat it with a spoon.

0:07:42 > 0:07:46There's no denying the British love of tasty lamb dishes.

0:07:46 > 0:07:49By contrast, home cooks usually avoid venison,

0:07:49 > 0:07:51despite its hearty flavour.

0:07:53 > 0:07:54But deer farmers Jane Emerson

0:07:54 > 0:07:58and Peter Stokan are on a mission to change all that.

0:07:59 > 0:08:03Some people think that venison is strong and gamey

0:08:03 > 0:08:05and when I'm standing there on my farmer's market stall,

0:08:05 > 0:08:07I get really cross and sometimes I even shout at them,

0:08:07 > 0:08:12"Stop saying that," but it doesn't have to be a strong gamey meat.

0:08:12 > 0:08:15It can be a mild, tender, succulent meat.

0:08:15 > 0:08:18Not only are we selling a product, but we're having to re-educate

0:08:18 > 0:08:23the general public as to the benefits and values of venison.

0:08:23 > 0:08:28Jane and Peter have 210 acres of land in a stunning

0:08:28 > 0:08:29part of the Lake District.

0:08:29 > 0:08:33They have been farming deer here since 1987.

0:08:33 > 0:08:38Deer have been kept in parks for hundreds of years and then the...

0:08:38 > 0:08:42It went out of fashion sort of managing the deer population

0:08:42 > 0:08:44as cattle and sheep were domesticated,

0:08:44 > 0:08:46so it's only relatively recently, sort of

0:08:46 > 0:08:49in the last 30, 40 years that people have started farming deer again.

0:08:49 > 0:08:51Come on, girlies.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54We had a smallholding of ten acres and we introduced the deer

0:08:54 > 0:08:59onto there, here we are today with a herd of 300 to 400 deer.

0:09:01 > 0:09:05The first British deer farm was established 40 years ago.

0:09:05 > 0:09:10Today, there are 300 with around 28,000 deer.

0:09:10 > 0:09:12The breed that Jane and Peter keep are red deer,

0:09:12 > 0:09:15our largest native species.

0:09:15 > 0:09:18Genetically, all our animals are just the same as the wild deer

0:09:18 > 0:09:21but they're... Obviously, over the years they've been

0:09:21 > 0:09:25selectively bred so that the hinds are maybe a little bit bigger,

0:09:25 > 0:09:28the temperament's better for a farming environment.

0:09:31 > 0:09:34They have one or two little quirks, but once you understand those,

0:09:34 > 0:09:37they're a very, very easy animal to handle.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40Oh!

0:09:40 > 0:09:43The flavour of meat generally is to do with its texture,

0:09:43 > 0:09:46to do with the fat content and the age of the...of the animal

0:09:46 > 0:09:50when it's slaughtered. So, in our situation, the animals are about

0:09:50 > 0:09:52sort of 18, 24 months when they're slaughtered.

0:09:52 > 0:09:56But if you're, obviously, if you were taking a wild deer out

0:09:56 > 0:09:58of the population it could be ten, 12 years of age

0:09:58 > 0:10:01and so the flavour of that could be quite different.

0:10:01 > 0:10:03Come on! Come on!

0:10:03 > 0:10:05There are some very, very good wild venison

0:10:05 > 0:10:09and...and don't make any mistake, but it can be tough.

0:10:11 > 0:10:14It's no picnic for red deer in the wild.

0:10:14 > 0:10:17Most of them live in the Scottish Highlands and the harsh

0:10:17 > 0:10:20conditions there affect the quality of the meat they produce.

0:10:21 > 0:10:24With any animal, it's all about reducing stress,

0:10:24 > 0:10:28whether it's nutritional or weather or just social,

0:10:28 > 0:10:31is minimal and then they'll do OK.

0:10:32 > 0:10:35We make sure they've always got good grass in front of them

0:10:35 > 0:10:37from an early age.

0:10:37 > 0:10:40The size of a deer's antlers depends on the quality of the food they

0:10:40 > 0:10:45eat, so these boys are living proof that no-one's had to go hungry.

0:10:45 > 0:10:47We find that the meat is much more consistent.

0:10:47 > 0:10:52They've not gone through periods of nutritional stress and so you do

0:10:52 > 0:10:56get a better quality meat that way than animals that may potentially

0:10:56 > 0:10:59have sort of had a period of starvation upon the...the hills.

0:10:59 > 0:11:03Jane and Peter oversee every stage of production.

0:11:03 > 0:11:08They even have a butchery on the farm where all the meat is prepared.

0:11:08 > 0:11:12And after all that work, they like to enjoy the fruits of their labour.

0:11:12 > 0:11:15Most people like to eat their venison a little bit pink,

0:11:15 > 0:11:17so we'll cut a decent thickness steak.

0:11:19 > 0:11:21The steak is coated with olive oil,

0:11:21 > 0:11:24and then it's placed on a griddle when it's piping hot.

0:11:27 > 0:11:30When I'm cooking a steak, I don't tend to keep turning it over.

0:11:30 > 0:11:33I just put it in, let it cook for four minutes the first side and

0:11:33 > 0:11:36then turn it over and give it another three minutes on the second side.

0:11:36 > 0:11:40And that way you're not sort of constantly changing

0:11:40 > 0:11:41the position of the meat.

0:11:41 > 0:11:44At the end of the cooking time, rest it

0:11:44 > 0:11:47and that way, it doesn't end up tasting like boot leather.

0:11:50 > 0:11:52- Here we are, dear. Would you like to try some of this?- Yes.

0:11:55 > 0:11:57Really good.

0:11:57 > 0:11:59I didn't think you could cook as well as that.

0:11:59 > 0:12:01SHE CHUCKLES

0:12:01 > 0:12:05Venison might have a reputation for being tough and gamey,

0:12:05 > 0:12:07but Jane and Peter are proving nothing

0:12:07 > 0:12:10could be further from the truth.

0:12:10 > 0:12:14Venison is just as wholesome and hearty as all the traditional meat.

0:12:14 > 0:12:16You shouldn't be nervous of using it.

0:12:16 > 0:12:18It's easy to cook and delicious to eat.

0:12:27 > 0:12:30I really love venison, and believe me, if you've got a good

0:12:30 > 0:12:34quality cut of it, you're halfway to a wholesome and hearty meal.

0:12:35 > 0:12:38Jane and Peter have agreed to come over to my house with some of

0:12:38 > 0:12:41their produce and I'm going to use it to rustle up

0:12:41 > 0:12:42a very special lunch.

0:12:46 > 0:12:49The question is, why venison? How did it all start?

0:12:49 > 0:12:53We had a smallholding, there was a deer sale and we bought some deer.

0:12:53 > 0:12:55- There was a deer sale...- Yeah.- ..and you bought some...

0:12:55 > 0:12:57- What were you doing before then, then?- Cattle and sheep.

0:12:57 > 0:13:00Cattle and sheep. Cos up where you are I suppose there's...

0:13:00 > 0:13:03- You can't have any arable up that neck of the woods.- No.

0:13:03 > 0:13:06'Jane and Peter have brought along some fantastic venison fillets

0:13:06 > 0:13:10'and I'm putting them right at the heart of an amazing dish.

0:13:10 > 0:13:13'It's my venison, chicken liver and Armagnac terrine.

0:13:15 > 0:13:17'I start by seasoning the venison

0:13:17 > 0:13:19'and sealing it in a hot pan with some oil.'

0:13:22 > 0:13:25So, how do you eat yours then cos I hear you're a bit of a chef?

0:13:25 > 0:13:27SHE LAUGHS No.

0:13:27 > 0:13:29Well, you know... Pan-frying the old steak

0:13:29 > 0:13:30and that sort of stuff, you know?

0:13:30 > 0:13:34- As time goes by, rarer and rarer. - Rarer and rarer.- Yeah, yeah.

0:13:34 > 0:13:37It's one of those things really, you... People are always a bit

0:13:37 > 0:13:39sceptical about it, overcook it and this is where the problem lies.

0:13:39 > 0:13:42- When you do overcook venison... - It goes dry.

0:13:42 > 0:13:43..cos it's beautiful and tender,

0:13:43 > 0:13:46but there's very little fat on it as well so the combination

0:13:46 > 0:13:49- of those two things. - So, you need to undercook it.

0:13:49 > 0:13:52'When the venison is sealed take it off the heat and leave it to rest.

0:13:52 > 0:13:55'Next, you'll need 350 grams of chicken livers,

0:13:55 > 0:13:58'which are sealed in the same hot pan.'

0:13:58 > 0:14:01What's life like living up in that neck of the woods,

0:14:01 > 0:14:04- the Lake District? It's farming cos...- It's wet.

0:14:04 > 0:14:07..but it can't be the easiest thing because the secondary effect really

0:14:07 > 0:14:10with wet farmland, of course, you get things...

0:14:10 > 0:14:13Problems with the animals' feet and bits and pieces, don't you?

0:14:13 > 0:14:16Well, great fortunate for...for us, deer don't have feet problems

0:14:16 > 0:14:19unlike sheep. We don't have to clip them, we don't have to dip them,

0:14:19 > 0:14:22we don't have... They're very healthy animals.

0:14:22 > 0:14:24I know they can jump a fair way, those fences are pretty high.

0:14:24 > 0:14:27- They also wriggle under. - Yeah.- That's where they go.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29- They're very lazy.- They go under. - Oh, they go underneath, do they?

0:14:29 > 0:14:32Yeah, if they have the opportunity, then he'll go underneath

0:14:32 > 0:14:33rather than over the top.

0:14:35 > 0:14:37'Once sealed, the livers are flambeed in Armagnac.'

0:14:39 > 0:14:40Why farming then in particular?

0:14:40 > 0:14:45Erm, it was basically a form of relaxation from business.

0:14:45 > 0:14:47- Relaxation(!)- It isn't any more.

0:14:47 > 0:14:50I was a farmer's kid, it's not really relaxing, is it?

0:14:50 > 0:14:52It wasn't when we when we started.

0:14:52 > 0:14:54So, what kind of business were you in then before?

0:14:54 > 0:14:56- We were in forestry and landscaping. - Right.

0:14:56 > 0:15:00But then we bought the farm and...

0:15:00 > 0:15:03- You've got to do something with it. - You've got to do something with it

0:15:03 > 0:15:06and we bought the deer and it just grew from there.

0:15:10 > 0:15:13Then puree the chicken by blitzing 300 grams of skinless breast

0:15:13 > 0:15:16meat and then adding 200ml of double cream.

0:15:19 > 0:15:24And we end up with this lovely sort of smooth mousse, really.

0:15:24 > 0:15:26Well, the French call it a 'farce,'

0:15:26 > 0:15:30- up in the Lake District you call it a pate, is that right?- Yeah.

0:15:30 > 0:15:32Yeah, exactly, yeah. The difference is 20 quid.

0:15:32 > 0:15:33HE CHUCKLES

0:15:33 > 0:15:36And then we season it afterwards. It's quite an important thing,

0:15:36 > 0:15:39obviously, seasoning, but afterwards

0:15:39 > 0:15:42because the salt can toughen up the meat,

0:15:42 > 0:15:45particularly when you're blending it.

0:15:45 > 0:15:47And then I'm going to throw in two other things

0:15:47 > 0:15:50- which I love with venison, venison and hazelnuts...- OK.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52Big fan, all right?

0:15:54 > 0:15:56Add 50 grams of toasted hazelnuts

0:15:56 > 0:15:59and the same quantity of dried cranberries.

0:16:01 > 0:16:05Then line a loaf tin with dry cured, streaky bacon.

0:16:05 > 0:16:08And the reason for dry cured is that you don't want

0:16:08 > 0:16:12the moisture to come out of the bacon, otherwise it's just going to

0:16:12 > 0:16:14add too much liquid to our terrine.

0:16:14 > 0:16:16But just basically line this,

0:16:16 > 0:16:19so you've got enough bacon to fold it over.

0:16:19 > 0:16:21That's all you're doing.

0:16:21 > 0:16:23A third of the chicken mousse goes in first,

0:16:23 > 0:16:27followed by the venison fillets

0:16:27 > 0:16:30and another layer of the mousse.

0:16:30 > 0:16:32And what do you do with the leftover bits of meat, then?

0:16:32 > 0:16:35If it's big enough chunks, then we use it for casseroling

0:16:35 > 0:16:38and then after that it's sausage, burgers, venison mince is good.

0:16:38 > 0:16:41So, are you one of the only venison farms up that neck of the woods

0:16:41 > 0:16:43- then? You must be, I suppose. - Yeah.- We are, yes.

0:16:43 > 0:16:46Yeah, your...next nearest one would be down in Yorkshire.

0:16:46 > 0:16:49- Down in, down in my neck of the woods?- Yeah, Barnsley.

0:16:49 > 0:16:52Well, I'm putting a herb that I love with chicken, but it

0:16:52 > 0:16:56goes particularly well with venison. This is some tarragon and then

0:16:56 > 0:17:00we've got the cold, sealed, flambeed chicken livers,

0:17:00 > 0:17:03which go on there as well. It's important to do this early,

0:17:03 > 0:17:06so they're nice and cold when you layer this up.

0:17:06 > 0:17:08And then finally, the final layer...

0:17:11 > 0:17:13..of our chicken.

0:17:16 > 0:17:19Finish off the terrine by flattening down the top layer of the mousse

0:17:19 > 0:17:22and folding the bacon over it.

0:17:22 > 0:17:25So, predominantly, where would the most amount of venison come from?

0:17:25 > 0:17:27- Would that still be UK-based or...? - No, regrettably no.

0:17:27 > 0:17:30- It would be...- New Zealand. - New Zealand.- New Zealand?

0:17:30 > 0:17:33- Yeah.- That's ridiculous, isn't it?! - I know, I know, but...- Absolutely!

0:17:33 > 0:17:36..that's where the biggest amount of venison is produced is in

0:17:36 > 0:17:38- New Zealand still. - I never knew that.- Yeah.

0:17:38 > 0:17:41So once you've got this terrine nice and lined and full,

0:17:41 > 0:17:44you want it sort of domed over the top cos as it cooks,

0:17:44 > 0:17:46it puffs up and then once it's in the fridge

0:17:46 > 0:17:49it presses back down again. So make sure it's got a domed top on it.

0:17:49 > 0:17:52Place the lid on, into a tray.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55This is actually the most important part of the cooking process really.

0:17:55 > 0:17:58You need to sort of half fill this with water.

0:17:59 > 0:18:01'This is absolutely crucial

0:18:01 > 0:18:04'because if you don't do it the bacon can burn.'

0:18:04 > 0:18:08A 'bain-marie', as the French call it, or as us guys up North,

0:18:08 > 0:18:10a tray of 'at watta', is that right?

0:18:10 > 0:18:12HE LAUGHS

0:18:12 > 0:18:17Stick it in the oven. Now this needs to cook about 170, 350 Fahrenheit.

0:18:17 > 0:18:19It needs to cook for about an hour and a half.

0:18:20 > 0:18:22Once cooked, I'll let the terrine cool

0:18:22 > 0:18:25before popping it into the fridge to chill.

0:18:28 > 0:18:31This has got to be one of the richest dishes I cook at home.

0:18:31 > 0:18:34It's hard to beat the robust meaty flavours of venison and chicken

0:18:34 > 0:18:39livers, but when they're combined with that creamy mousse along with a

0:18:39 > 0:18:44boozy kick from the Armagnac, you've got yourself a proper hearty lunch.

0:18:44 > 0:18:46There you go. I feel quite nervous putting this

0:18:46 > 0:18:48in front of you guys, you know?

0:18:48 > 0:18:52- But you get to dive into that. - That's great.

0:18:52 > 0:18:54- Tell me what you think.- Well.

0:18:54 > 0:18:56- Go on, I'll let you go first. - Will you indeed?- Yeah.

0:18:58 > 0:19:00This is very, very nice.

0:19:03 > 0:19:05- Yeah.- Any good?- Yeah.- That's great.

0:19:05 > 0:19:08- It's definitely your venison?- Yep. - Yeah, yeah, no, absolutely.

0:19:08 > 0:19:11Well, I wanted to do this cos it's sort of hearty, wholesome,

0:19:11 > 0:19:15- proper family farming grub.- Yep.

0:19:15 > 0:19:19Or as my mother would say, "It's a bit poncey, but it tastes nice."

0:19:19 > 0:19:21- SHE LAUGHS - It's something.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32Ideas of which foods are wholesome

0:19:32 > 0:19:35and hearty have changed over the years.

0:19:36 > 0:19:40Food historian Dr Annie Gray is stepping back 80 years to

0:19:40 > 0:19:44an era when lighter dishes were becoming more fashionable.

0:19:49 > 0:19:53In the 1930s, most people were living on pretty plain stuff.

0:19:53 > 0:19:55The very poor ate very badly indeed,

0:19:55 > 0:19:58but the vast majority of middling sorts, the kind of people

0:19:58 > 0:20:00that would live in a house like this,

0:20:00 > 0:20:05they tended to live on things like meat pie and three types of veg.

0:20:05 > 0:20:08Quite heavy and quite stodgy.

0:20:08 > 0:20:09But times were changing.

0:20:09 > 0:20:13We discovered vitamins, we'd discovered calories!

0:20:13 > 0:20:16And so in the wake of the Great War, there was a great move to

0:20:16 > 0:20:20throw out the old ideas of Edwardian excess and bring in new,

0:20:20 > 0:20:22healthy, wholesome foods.

0:20:25 > 0:20:26I'm talking salads,

0:20:26 > 0:20:29and salads were the kind of thing that you really do see start

0:20:29 > 0:20:34to appear in middle-class homes more and more in the 1920s and '30s.

0:20:34 > 0:20:37The salads I'm going to cook are the kind of salads that would

0:20:37 > 0:20:40have graced a beautiful, rich person's table.

0:20:40 > 0:20:43But there's no reason that a woman in a house like this couldn't

0:20:43 > 0:20:46have taught herself what to do and thought to herself as she did

0:20:46 > 0:20:49it, "I've got a little bit of glamour in my life too!"

0:20:53 > 0:20:56I'm cooking salads from this book.

0:20:56 > 0:20:59The book's by a man called Henri-Paul Pellaprat.

0:20:59 > 0:21:00He was one of the early teachers

0:21:00 > 0:21:02at the Cordon Bleu Cookery School in Paris.

0:21:02 > 0:21:06He also published books, among them this, which was published

0:21:06 > 0:21:09first in French and was an immediate best-seller.

0:21:10 > 0:21:13You can see that some of these salads are brilliant.

0:21:13 > 0:21:18These are simple plain vegetable dishes but then you take them,

0:21:18 > 0:21:20and you make them extraordinary.

0:21:23 > 0:21:24Annie's wholesome and hearty dish

0:21:24 > 0:21:30from the newly health-conscious 1930s is a salad marguerite.

0:21:30 > 0:21:32Marguerite means 'daisy' in French.

0:21:32 > 0:21:35The base layers are potatoes, asparagus, cauliflower

0:21:35 > 0:21:38and green beans, all of which need to be cooked and they all need to

0:21:38 > 0:21:41be cooked separately because they all have different cooking times.

0:21:41 > 0:21:43So this is a fairly involved salad.

0:21:52 > 0:21:54All of these vegetables were really good for you

0:21:54 > 0:21:58and there was quite a craze in the 1920s and '30s to give up

0:21:58 > 0:22:02carbohydrates, to eat very healthily, to in fact, diet.

0:22:02 > 0:22:05Ideals about what the female figure should look like were changing.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08If you were a good mid-to-late Victorian,

0:22:08 > 0:22:11then you aspired to be a true Englishwoman,

0:22:11 > 0:22:14to have the kind of figure that the young Queen Victoria had

0:22:14 > 0:22:17when she came to the throne, which is to say quite voluptuous.

0:22:17 > 0:22:20Everything changed however in the wake of the Great War.

0:22:20 > 0:22:24The ideal became a little bit more boyish.

0:22:24 > 0:22:27If you wanted a straight up and down figure, if you wanted to look

0:22:27 > 0:22:31glamorous and posh and aristocratic, there's no way you could

0:22:31 > 0:22:35continue to eat as you would have done in the Edwardian period.

0:22:37 > 0:22:41There was also a bit of a fitness craze among women in the 1930s.

0:22:41 > 0:22:44The Women's League of Health and Beauty was set up to encourage

0:22:44 > 0:22:46ladies to take up exercise.

0:22:47 > 0:22:51And the League staged public demonstrations of their routines.

0:22:55 > 0:22:58I've cooked my vegetables and now I need to let them cool, but these

0:22:58 > 0:23:04vegetables alone don't look exotic enough to be an aspirational salad.

0:23:04 > 0:23:07The quintessential ingredient is mayonnaise.

0:23:10 > 0:23:13The mayonnaise was made by mixing egg yolk and mustard

0:23:13 > 0:23:15and slowly pouring in oil.

0:23:18 > 0:23:20I'm going to add a little bit of lemon juice just to help

0:23:20 > 0:23:21the oil emulsify.

0:23:23 > 0:23:24It must be said that

0:23:24 > 0:23:28whenever I make mayonnaise I am reminded that its constituent parts

0:23:28 > 0:23:32are basically an egg yolk, very good for you, and a bucket of oil.

0:23:33 > 0:23:37So I need to add some seasonings and I need to add some vinegar.

0:23:38 > 0:23:40It just makes the whole thing go white.

0:23:43 > 0:23:45I can't just throw everything in.

0:23:45 > 0:23:48We'll start with the green beans,

0:23:48 > 0:23:50then the cauliflower.

0:23:52 > 0:23:54Asparagus,

0:23:54 > 0:23:56potatoes.

0:23:56 > 0:24:01Everything needs to be in layers so green, white, green, white.

0:24:02 > 0:24:07So, a nice healthy hearty wholesome salad, not Cordon Bleu cookery.

0:24:07 > 0:24:09The decoration, that's where it's all at!

0:24:11 > 0:24:14Lots of people today think that the salad wouldn't be complete

0:24:14 > 0:24:18without a bit of mayonnaise, but they mean a teaspoon on the side

0:24:18 > 0:24:22of the plate. This is not a teaspoon on the side of the plate.

0:24:23 > 0:24:26The recipe now suggests that in order to make your salad

0:24:26 > 0:24:30look like a salad marguerite, a daisy salad,

0:24:30 > 0:24:33you use hard boiled eggs to decorate the top with daisies.

0:24:45 > 0:24:49This is the middle of my daisy, and these are going to be my petals.

0:25:00 > 0:25:02It is quite a mad salad,

0:25:02 > 0:25:06but it's not the maddest salad that Henri-Paul Pellaprat recommended.

0:25:06 > 0:25:11He also included things like the 'salade du berger',

0:25:11 > 0:25:13the hour of the shepherd.

0:25:13 > 0:25:15It is a similar principle to this one in that it is layers

0:25:15 > 0:25:18and layers of different fruit and vegetables. Again covered

0:25:18 > 0:25:23with fine mayonnaise and then made to look like a clock face.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28It might not really be hearty and wholesome exactly with that

0:25:28 > 0:25:33quantity of mayonnaise on, but your guests are going to talk about it.

0:25:33 > 0:25:35You are literally going to be the talk of the street.

0:25:44 > 0:25:48Introducing hearty wholesomeness to your cooking doesn't have to

0:25:48 > 0:25:51mean rustling up endless stews and steamed puddings.

0:25:52 > 0:25:54Just as Annie did with her salads,

0:25:54 > 0:25:58you can also add a homely touch to lighter dishes.

0:25:58 > 0:26:01And one of my favourite recipes injects a bit of hearty

0:26:01 > 0:26:04fruitiness into a traditional dessert.

0:26:04 > 0:26:08It's my greengage meringues with cream.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10Now one of the things that I grow quite successfully at home

0:26:10 > 0:26:14are plums, but these are a type of plum, they're greengages.

0:26:14 > 0:26:20Now not all gages are green, some are actually plum coloured.

0:26:20 > 0:26:23I'm going to be using these to create a wonderful, little dessert.

0:26:25 > 0:26:29First off, I pit and quarter 750 grams of the greengages.

0:26:31 > 0:26:33I remember using these first of all in France

0:26:33 > 0:26:36and all I had to do was make these little tartlets

0:26:36 > 0:26:37on the pastry section.

0:26:39 > 0:26:43And all the French head chef used to do was just shout at me.

0:26:43 > 0:26:46'Tart Martin,' that was all I was called, for six weeks.

0:26:46 > 0:26:48I was only 14.

0:26:51 > 0:26:54I'm making a compote with the greengages by cooking them

0:26:54 > 0:26:58with two tablespoons of water and 120 grams of caster sugar.

0:27:01 > 0:27:04Now, like a normal compote really you just bring this to the boil

0:27:04 > 0:27:07and the idea is do this with the lid off because as it reduces

0:27:07 > 0:27:11the water evaporates and you want it just to thicken slightly, almost go

0:27:11 > 0:27:15to a nice little syrup. So just cook this for about 15 to 20 minutes.

0:27:17 > 0:27:20Once the fruit is softened and syrupy, remove from the heat

0:27:20 > 0:27:22and cool down completely.

0:27:23 > 0:27:25Now, I've already got some cold

0:27:25 > 0:27:28and you want it cold for this meringue and as it goes cold

0:27:28 > 0:27:30it thickens up even more.

0:27:30 > 0:27:33And you get these slightly tart greengages.

0:27:35 > 0:27:37To make the meringue, whisk five egg whites

0:27:37 > 0:27:40until they form soft peaks before adding the sugar.

0:27:41 > 0:27:43I'm using caster sugar and icing sugar

0:27:43 > 0:27:46and I think this is really important in terms of this meringue.

0:27:46 > 0:27:47It makes it lovely and silky,

0:27:47 > 0:27:51but also quite soft and sticky in the centre.

0:27:51 > 0:27:56First, add 150 grams of the caster sugar into the egg whites.

0:27:56 > 0:28:00Mix to soft peaks and then follow on with 150 grams of icing

0:28:00 > 0:28:02sugar before mixing again.

0:28:02 > 0:28:06And then start it off slowly, for obvious reasons,

0:28:06 > 0:28:10otherwise you'll need to redecorate your kitchen,

0:28:10 > 0:28:14until it's mixed together and then fire it up.

0:28:14 > 0:28:16And this breaks every rule of making a meringue.

0:28:16 > 0:28:20You're beating it once the sugar goes in and it creates this lovely,

0:28:20 > 0:28:24soft silky meringue then you end up with this.

0:28:24 > 0:28:27The texture is fantastic.

0:28:29 > 0:28:32'Carefully fold a good handful of the greengage compote

0:28:32 > 0:28:34'into the meringue.'

0:28:34 > 0:28:37Now this recipe works fantastically well with soft fruit, things

0:28:37 > 0:28:39like raspberries, strawberries.

0:28:42 > 0:28:46And then before I put them on the tray, a quick tip.

0:28:46 > 0:28:48Stick the paper down first,

0:28:48 > 0:28:51otherwise if you've got a fan oven,

0:28:51 > 0:28:54your meringue shells, when you turn round in about an hour's time,

0:28:54 > 0:28:58will look like the National Lottery balls flying around the oven.

0:28:58 > 0:28:59Then you can if you want,

0:28:59 > 0:29:02and this is what I used to do in France,

0:29:02 > 0:29:03is shape them

0:29:03 > 0:29:06to which the French call a 'quenelle,'

0:29:06 > 0:29:07but in my house, it's a dollop!

0:29:13 > 0:29:15When you're finished with dolloping, stick the meringues

0:29:15 > 0:29:20into an oven that's preheated at 100 degrees for two hours.

0:29:20 > 0:29:23Now I've got some that are cooled, over here.

0:29:24 > 0:29:28And you end up with these lovely sticky-style meringues.

0:29:30 > 0:29:33And you can see when you tip them up, the greengages are lovely

0:29:33 > 0:29:36and gooey and chewy in the centre

0:29:36 > 0:29:40and this is what makes this recipe, I think, so good.

0:29:40 > 0:29:43Now to fill this I'm just going to use a bit of whipped cream

0:29:43 > 0:29:45flavoured with vanilla.

0:29:47 > 0:29:48Double cream, of course.

0:29:50 > 0:29:51Throw that in.

0:29:51 > 0:29:55Now, so often this would be done classically with creme Chantilly,

0:29:55 > 0:29:59which is whipped cream, icing sugar and vanilla essence,

0:29:59 > 0:30:04but if you've got vanilla pods you get a much better flavour, I think.

0:30:07 > 0:30:11Whip 300ml of cream with the seeds of one vanilla pod.

0:30:11 > 0:30:15Now you almost want the texture of the cream like the texture

0:30:15 > 0:30:16of the meringue, soft.

0:30:16 > 0:30:18You don't want it too firm.

0:30:20 > 0:30:23You just want it to hold ever so slightly,

0:30:23 > 0:30:26so it's a good idea just to take this off and finish it by hand.

0:30:30 > 0:30:31'This is such a simple dish.

0:30:32 > 0:30:37'The syrupy greengages add a touch of fruity warmth to the meringues.

0:30:37 > 0:30:40'It's crunchy and creamy, sweet and tart.

0:30:40 > 0:30:42'The dessert that has it all.'

0:30:42 > 0:30:44Let's face it, who doesn't like meringue

0:30:44 > 0:30:46and cream in the first place,

0:30:46 > 0:30:48but then you kind of dive into this.

0:30:56 > 0:30:59And it gets better because it gets chewier and chewier.

0:30:59 > 0:31:01I just think it tastes delicious.

0:31:09 > 0:31:12Whether it's a pork pie or a joint of roast beef,

0:31:12 > 0:31:15one condiment has always been guaranteed to complement

0:31:15 > 0:31:19wholesome and hearty flavours - strong English mustard.

0:31:19 > 0:31:23There's evidence that mustard was widely produced in the market

0:31:23 > 0:31:26town of Tewkesbury as far back as the Tudor period,

0:31:26 > 0:31:29but it's taken award-winning home producers Robin Ritchie

0:31:29 > 0:31:34and Samantha Ramsey to revive this once-famous, local artisan industry.

0:31:35 > 0:31:37Tewkesbury has a tradition going back

0:31:37 > 0:31:40to about the 17th century of making Tewkesbury mustard.

0:31:40 > 0:31:42Obviously it was a condiment of its time,

0:31:42 > 0:31:45being mentioned in Shakespeare.

0:31:45 > 0:31:49Falstaff is given the words describing Poins as having

0:31:49 > 0:31:51"a wit as thick as Tewkesbury mustard."

0:31:55 > 0:31:58But reviving Tewkesbury's famous medieval mustard would take

0:31:58 > 0:32:00a bit of research.

0:32:00 > 0:32:03Talking to local historians and local people,

0:32:03 > 0:32:08I soon found the idea of the mustard,

0:32:08 > 0:32:11the genuine Tewkesbury mustard, being a mustard ball.

0:32:13 > 0:32:17Yes, you heard it right. Medieval mustard wasn't sold in jars,

0:32:17 > 0:32:19but it was rolled into handy, pocket-sized balls.

0:32:23 > 0:32:26It was the difficulty of transporting them

0:32:26 > 0:32:31around the country that made them turn them into balls.

0:32:31 > 0:32:34And then they would put them in their pocket,

0:32:34 > 0:32:37go off to the pub and mustard balls

0:32:37 > 0:32:42were used as a condiment much the same as we use mustard out of a jar.

0:32:43 > 0:32:48You can just do shavings onto your meat or you can reconstitute it,

0:32:48 > 0:32:51adding whatever you're drinking to turn it into a paste.

0:32:54 > 0:32:57With the research done, Robin needed somebody with passion

0:32:57 > 0:33:01and drive to take the mustard balls to the next level,

0:33:01 > 0:33:04and that's where business partner Samantha came in.

0:33:04 > 0:33:09The key to making any a great mustard is obviously mustard flour.

0:33:11 > 0:33:15We'll be making it how it was made in medieval times.

0:33:17 > 0:33:21Robin had found evidence that back in the 1500s there were plenty of

0:33:21 > 0:33:26apple orchards around Tewkesbury, so cider seemed a natural ingredient.

0:33:26 > 0:33:29I use cider as the basis which added sweetness,

0:33:29 > 0:33:31and a little bit of appleyness,

0:33:31 > 0:33:33which was wonderful.

0:33:33 > 0:33:35We have stuck with that ever since.

0:33:36 > 0:33:39But back then, apple trees were not the only thing that could be

0:33:39 > 0:33:41found growing everywhere.

0:33:41 > 0:33:44For that hit of heat common in so many English mustards,

0:33:44 > 0:33:47Robin and Sam turn to horseradish

0:33:47 > 0:33:48but they don't grate it, they

0:33:48 > 0:33:53concentrated it into a fiery essence that needs to be used sparingly.

0:33:54 > 0:33:58It is pretty mean stuff, add a tiny drop and it will react

0:33:58 > 0:34:03massively, or add another few drops to that and it will be explosive.

0:34:05 > 0:34:07Just fold all the liquid into the flour

0:34:07 > 0:34:10and knead it through your fingers.

0:34:10 > 0:34:13It's basically the same as making a cake.

0:34:13 > 0:34:15Give it a good old mix together

0:34:15 > 0:34:20and you will eventually come to a nice, hard dough,

0:34:20 > 0:34:24which you'll be able to separate and make into individual balls.

0:34:24 > 0:34:28But making authentic medieval mustard isn't without its drawbacks.

0:34:28 > 0:34:32This is when you first start to notice the chemicals actually

0:34:32 > 0:34:35starting to react. The mustard flour is now reacting

0:34:35 > 0:34:37to the horseradish that you've added,

0:34:37 > 0:34:39which is now starting to make my eyes water.

0:34:40 > 0:34:42But if you look now...

0:34:42 > 0:34:46that's more of the sort of dough that you'd like.

0:34:47 > 0:34:51This is it, this is where the pain comes in.

0:34:51 > 0:34:53It is a painful operation.

0:34:53 > 0:34:56I do pity the women that would have had this job, definitely.

0:34:58 > 0:34:59And there we have it, that is

0:34:59 > 0:35:04the consistency that it should be at. That is the finished ball.

0:35:07 > 0:35:10All that remains now is to individually roll

0:35:10 > 0:35:12the dough into convenient pocked-sized balls.

0:35:14 > 0:35:18Think of William Shakespeare carrying one of those around with him.

0:35:18 > 0:35:21- It's an amazing thought, isn't it? - Mm.

0:35:22 > 0:35:25There's no denying Tewkesbury mustard's rich history,

0:35:25 > 0:35:29and with Robin and Samantha on board the future is looking bright too.

0:35:29 > 0:35:32We don't really like to call it a condiment.

0:35:32 > 0:35:34We like to call it more of an ingredient

0:35:34 > 0:35:37because there is so much you can put it in, either stick it in a broth

0:35:37 > 0:35:39or a casserole or a stew.

0:35:39 > 0:35:42Or to simply make your own salad dressings. Take a tiny piece

0:35:42 > 0:35:46of the ball with a bit of olive oil and a tiny bit of vinegar,

0:35:46 > 0:35:49whisk it up, and you've got yourself a fantastic salad dressing.

0:35:49 > 0:35:51But the big question is,

0:35:51 > 0:35:55does the latest batch of this age-old recipe cut the mustard?

0:36:00 > 0:36:01That is just perfect for me.

0:36:01 > 0:36:03I don't like it too hot.

0:36:05 > 0:36:06It's nice, actually.

0:36:12 > 0:36:15I love wholesome and hearty home-cooked food

0:36:15 > 0:36:18because it's packed with rich, warm, comforting flavours.

0:36:22 > 0:36:25And if there's one dish that ticks all three of those boxes,

0:36:25 > 0:36:28it's my beer marinated rack of pork with chard gratin.

0:36:30 > 0:36:32I'm going to marinate the meat first of all.

0:36:32 > 0:36:35Now it's actually quite a modern technique really

0:36:35 > 0:36:38and one that is used in a lot of restaurants because it really

0:36:38 > 0:36:42imparts so much flavour in, and it's so easy to replicate at home.

0:36:43 > 0:36:47The base of the marinade is a brine made by heating 100ml

0:36:47 > 0:36:50of cold water with two tablespoons of sea salt

0:36:50 > 0:36:53and the same amount of dark brown sugar.

0:36:53 > 0:36:57And all I'm going to do really is just dissolve the sugar

0:36:57 > 0:36:59and the salt in the warm water.

0:36:59 > 0:37:02Now you can use this brine for so many different meats.

0:37:02 > 0:37:04Not only does it work well with pork,

0:37:04 > 0:37:06but it's fantastic with chicken.

0:37:06 > 0:37:08'Once the sugar and salt have dissolved,

0:37:08 > 0:37:11'add another 400ml of cold water.'

0:37:12 > 0:37:14Now I don't want this brine hot.

0:37:14 > 0:37:17That's the reason why I'm popping a little bit of cold water in there.

0:37:17 > 0:37:20The brine is transformed into a marinade by adding one

0:37:20 > 0:37:24teaspoon of black peppercorns, four cloves of crushed garlic,

0:37:24 > 0:37:29a couple of bay leaves and two tablespoons of yellow mustard seeds.

0:37:31 > 0:37:34Now a few herbs, you can put whatever you want in there, really.

0:37:34 > 0:37:38A little bit of thyme, some parsley, just pop the whole lot in.

0:37:39 > 0:37:43Finish the marinade off with 500ml of good quality beer.

0:37:46 > 0:37:49Don't use lager for this, you want really a rich ale

0:37:49 > 0:37:52because it's the molasses with the sugar and the beer

0:37:52 > 0:37:55that really imparts so much flavour into this dish.

0:37:57 > 0:38:01And then for the pork, I've got a nice rib of pork.

0:38:01 > 0:38:04Now there's no fat on the top, so this is not going to be

0:38:04 > 0:38:07a roast joint with crackling.

0:38:07 > 0:38:09But fans of crackling needn't worry

0:38:09 > 0:38:12because this tasty marinade more than makes up for the lack of it.

0:38:14 > 0:38:17You'll need to leave the pork in the marinade for 24 hours,

0:38:17 > 0:38:21make sure you turn the meat every now and then.

0:38:21 > 0:38:22And I've got one here.

0:38:24 > 0:38:27What you need to do... We'll open up the bag

0:38:27 > 0:38:32and really lose the marinade and then just pat it dry on the outside.

0:38:32 > 0:38:35Now you can see, with the marinade, when it sits in there,

0:38:35 > 0:38:38it changes colour slightly, but most importantly,

0:38:38 > 0:38:41it changes texture. It adds so much moisture.

0:38:41 > 0:38:44To ensure all the amazing flavours of the marinade stay within

0:38:44 > 0:38:46the pork, you need to seal it.

0:38:47 > 0:38:51So a hot pan on the stove and then get a little bit of butter in.

0:38:55 > 0:38:58Make sure you seal the meat on all sides before putting it onto

0:38:58 > 0:39:01a baking tray and sticking it into an oven

0:39:01 > 0:39:04preheated at 200 degrees centigrade for 15 minutes.

0:39:06 > 0:39:09Now to serve with the pork I'm going to do a nice little gratin,

0:39:09 > 0:39:12and a gratin using this,

0:39:12 > 0:39:14chard. I love this sort of stuff.

0:39:17 > 0:39:20So many times people have tried this and it's very bitter.

0:39:20 > 0:39:23That's cos mainly, I think, they don't cook it properly,

0:39:23 > 0:39:26or certainly don't cook it enough.

0:39:26 > 0:39:29I've grown my own over the years in my garden

0:39:29 > 0:39:32and you get a whole array of wonderful colours when it

0:39:32 > 0:39:36comes into season. Pinks to reds to purples, it's a wonderful veg.

0:39:38 > 0:39:41Next, chop two large spuds into small chunks,

0:39:41 > 0:39:46then throw the potatoes, chard and sliced onion into a pan.

0:39:48 > 0:39:51All the veg is baked in a white sauce.

0:39:51 > 0:39:53To make it, melt 50 grams of butter into a pan

0:39:53 > 0:39:56before adding the same amount of flour.

0:39:58 > 0:40:02Keep it on the heat and mix it together.

0:40:02 > 0:40:05You can see the paste that you get out of this is just nice.

0:40:05 > 0:40:07And then you can add the milk.

0:40:07 > 0:40:10You'll need 400ml of full fat milk,

0:40:10 > 0:40:13which you should add gradually.

0:40:13 > 0:40:16And also a good tip to stop your white sauce from going lumpy,

0:40:16 > 0:40:19get rid of this at this stage and use a whisk.

0:40:21 > 0:40:23Keep it on the heat, and keep mixing.

0:40:25 > 0:40:28Now you've got yourself a simple little white sauce

0:40:28 > 0:40:31but I'm going to slacken this down a little bit

0:40:31 > 0:40:33with some chicken stock.

0:40:33 > 0:40:35Whisk in 200ml of the stock,

0:40:35 > 0:40:38followed by 50 grams of gruyere cheese.

0:40:39 > 0:40:42Then pour the sauce over the veg

0:40:42 > 0:40:44and top it with more cheese.

0:40:45 > 0:40:48Now I love cooking this dish here in my kitchen

0:40:48 > 0:40:51because it's one of these dishes that can be prepared in advance.

0:40:51 > 0:40:53You can make this the day before.

0:40:54 > 0:40:56'Your next job is making the crust.

0:40:56 > 0:41:00'The key ingredient is brioche, a rich, buttery bread from France.

0:41:02 > 0:41:05'Start by blitzing 100 grams of it in a food processer.'

0:41:09 > 0:41:13Now brioche produces an amazing crumb, a buttery,

0:41:15 > 0:41:16delicious crumb.

0:41:16 > 0:41:20It's better than bread, in my opinion, for a crust.

0:41:20 > 0:41:21'To give the crust a real kick,

0:41:21 > 0:41:25'I throw in one teaspoon of English mustard powder and one tablespoon

0:41:25 > 0:41:27'of brown and yellow mustard seeds

0:41:27 > 0:41:29'that I've soaked in water overnight.'

0:41:32 > 0:41:35And then just to bind it, a little knob of butter.

0:41:42 > 0:41:45'When the mixture has reached the consistency of pastry,

0:41:45 > 0:41:47'and the pork has had 15 minutes in the oven

0:41:47 > 0:41:49'it's time to add the crust.'

0:41:50 > 0:41:53And the key to this is not add the crust too early

0:41:53 > 0:41:54otherwise it's going to burn.

0:41:54 > 0:41:58Then take the entire lot with the gratin,

0:41:58 > 0:42:00and put them back in the oven.

0:42:05 > 0:42:09'Reduce the heat to 180 degrees and cook the pork for 45 minutes

0:42:09 > 0:42:12'but give the gratin an hour.

0:42:15 > 0:42:17'This is the kind of food I love.

0:42:17 > 0:42:22'The creamy gratin is delicious enough on its own, but serve it with

0:42:22 > 0:42:26'meat this succulent and you've hit on a hearty and wholesome winner.'

0:42:26 > 0:42:34# Let me wrap you in my warm and tender love... #

0:42:36 > 0:42:40This crust is delicious, and that combined with the simplicity

0:42:40 > 0:42:44of the veg, I just think this is one of my all-time favourite dishes.

0:42:47 > 0:42:48I could eat the lot!

0:42:57 > 0:43:01I love trying out new and exciting flavours and I've had

0:43:01 > 0:43:03plenty of fancy meals over the years,

0:43:03 > 0:43:07but there are times when all I want is hearty and wholesome grub

0:43:07 > 0:43:10that I've cooked in my own kitchen.

0:43:10 > 0:43:14Not only is this food easy to prepare, it's also bursting

0:43:14 > 0:43:16with the kind of comforting flavours

0:43:16 > 0:43:18that are guaranteed to warm you right through.

0:43:20 > 0:43:24You can find all the recipes from the series on...