Back to Basics

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0:00:03 > 0:00:06The heart of my home is the kitchen.

0:00:07 > 0:00:11And it's here that I love to cook delicious meals

0:00:11 > 0:00:14for my nearest and dearest.

0:00:14 > 0:00:16ALL: Cheers!

0:00:18 > 0:00:21There's no better way to celebrate everything good in life...

0:00:22 > 0:00:26..than sharing some great food with the people you love.

0:00:28 > 0:00:31These are the dishes that I cook

0:00:31 > 0:00:34when I want to bring people together.

0:00:34 > 0:00:36These are my Home Comforts.

0:00:46 > 0:00:49I always wanted to be a chef, and from the age of eight,

0:00:49 > 0:00:51my goal has remained the same -

0:00:51 > 0:00:55I want to cook simple food really well.

0:00:55 > 0:00:58So, forget about complicated cooking because going back to basics

0:00:58 > 0:01:02will deliver delicious, reliable recipes time and time again.

0:01:02 > 0:01:05So often, the best recipes aren't taught.

0:01:05 > 0:01:07You kind of just pick them up along the way.

0:01:07 > 0:01:11And using those simple recipes can so often give you the best results.

0:01:12 > 0:01:15So, today, I'm making some of the all-time greats,

0:01:15 > 0:01:20like my twist on a deliciously indulgent cake...

0:01:20 > 0:01:23They don't get any more simple than a classic sponge.

0:01:23 > 0:01:26Not only does it look good, it tastes fantastic.

0:01:26 > 0:01:31'..the ultimate fish sandwich using the freshest of British seafood...'

0:01:31 > 0:01:32How good does that look?

0:01:32 > 0:01:35Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho! Yes!

0:01:35 > 0:01:39'..and I stroll down memory lane with my mate and mentor,

0:01:39 > 0:01:41'Brian Turner.'

0:01:41 > 0:01:43See, what you want to do, Brian, get a bit of this...

0:01:43 > 0:01:46It takes you back to the days of dripping and bread.

0:01:46 > 0:01:49It wasn't quite like this, lad, was it, eh, in Yorkshire? Yes, Dad.

0:01:51 > 0:01:54But when it comes to brilliant, basic recipes,

0:01:54 > 0:01:59the Victorians gave us lots and we've adapted them over the years.

0:01:59 > 0:02:01The Queen herself gave us the name

0:02:01 > 0:02:05for one of my favourite sweet treats - the Victoria sponge.

0:02:05 > 0:02:07I've been making it for years,

0:02:07 > 0:02:09and I'm going to bring it bang up-to-date by adding

0:02:09 > 0:02:14a home-made compote, lashings of fresh cream and mixed berries.

0:02:14 > 0:02:16Now, as recipes go, they don't get any more simple

0:02:16 > 0:02:18than a classic sponge,

0:02:18 > 0:02:21and I'm going to start off by measuring out the ingredients.

0:02:21 > 0:02:25Now, it's so easy to remember - it's equal quantities of everything.

0:02:25 > 0:02:28It's as simple as that. 200g of each.

0:02:28 > 0:02:32So, 200g of sugar, 200g of flour,

0:02:32 > 0:02:34200g of butter,

0:02:34 > 0:02:38four eggs, which adds up, funnily enough, to 200g.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41I just need to add the butter and the sugar together first.

0:02:41 > 0:02:43Now, you want soft butter for this.

0:02:43 > 0:02:46Not melted, but certainly butter at room temperature.

0:02:46 > 0:02:49It just mixes in with the sugar nice and easily.

0:02:49 > 0:02:52Now, actually, there are very, very few things left

0:02:52 > 0:02:54named after Queen Victoria, apart from the sponge,

0:02:54 > 0:02:56but she definitely had a sweet tooth.

0:02:56 > 0:02:59Not in her childhood, but certainly made up for it later on in life

0:02:59 > 0:03:02where she used to love afternoon teacakes and everything

0:03:02 > 0:03:04delivered to the palace.

0:03:04 > 0:03:07And this recipe has stood the test of time.

0:03:07 > 0:03:10So, what I'm going to do is mix the butter and the sugar together.

0:03:10 > 0:03:13Now, there's different methods of making a sponge,

0:03:13 > 0:03:15in particular this type of sponge.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18There's what they call an all-in-one method where you throw in all

0:03:18 > 0:03:21the ingredients together, or what I'm doing now, which is

0:03:21 > 0:03:22called the creaming method.

0:03:22 > 0:03:26Both methods will work, but I think this works the best.

0:03:26 > 0:03:29You see it's starting to come together now,

0:03:29 > 0:03:31and you get this thick paste.

0:03:31 > 0:03:36Creaming complete, it's time to add those four eggs, one at a time.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44Now we can turn our attention to the mould tray.

0:03:44 > 0:03:46Prepare the moulds by greasing with butter.

0:03:46 > 0:03:51Now, I like to do this by hand, really, rather than a pastry bush,

0:03:51 > 0:03:53cos you can get right into the corners.

0:03:54 > 0:03:56And then dust them with flour.

0:03:58 > 0:03:59So, just mould this around.

0:04:03 > 0:04:07Now, it's quite important to tap off the excess, really,

0:04:07 > 0:04:10cos that's going to stick to the cake if we're not careful.

0:04:10 > 0:04:11I don't line them with paper

0:04:11 > 0:04:15because you get little crease marks in the outside of the sponge.

0:04:16 > 0:04:18Weigh out 200g of self-raising flour,

0:04:18 > 0:04:20and for a richer flavour,

0:04:20 > 0:04:23add a generous dollop of vanilla bean paste.

0:04:24 > 0:04:28This is why I think this method makes it much lighter -

0:04:28 > 0:04:31because we always mix the flour in by hand,

0:04:31 > 0:04:34never with the machine, really, for a small quantity like this

0:04:34 > 0:04:37cos it overworks the flour and toughens up the cake.

0:04:37 > 0:04:41And this is your basic sponge cake, really,

0:04:41 > 0:04:43and it's used for so many different things.

0:04:43 > 0:04:44Those lovely little iced buns,

0:04:44 > 0:04:46the butterfly buns that you used to make as a kid...

0:04:46 > 0:04:48And it's one of the, I suppose, the first ever recipes

0:04:48 > 0:04:50that a lot of people make.

0:04:51 > 0:04:54Divide the mixture evenly between the two moulds.

0:04:54 > 0:04:56Make sure the tops are flat and even,

0:04:56 > 0:04:59and put the sponges in the oven at Gas Mark 5

0:04:59 > 0:05:01or 190 degrees Celsius,

0:05:01 > 0:05:04and cook for 20 to 25 minutes.

0:05:04 > 0:05:06Now, classically,

0:05:06 > 0:05:09this would be filled with a jam - strawberry or raspberry jam.

0:05:09 > 0:05:13But over the years, people have started to put in things like cream,

0:05:13 > 0:05:16which I think really benefits from this.

0:05:16 > 0:05:18And the way that I'm going to make it is actually speed it up.

0:05:18 > 0:05:21And by doing that, we add sugar and water together,

0:05:21 > 0:05:25in equal quantities, to create a nice stock syrup.

0:05:25 > 0:05:29So, just bring this to the boil. It takes about five minutes.

0:05:29 > 0:05:31Meanwhile, we can prepare the rest of our fruit.

0:05:31 > 0:05:33So, we've got blackberries, I've got raspberries,

0:05:33 > 0:05:36I've got redcurrants and I've got strawberries.

0:05:36 > 0:05:39Now, this is where I've got a bit of a chequered history with this cake.

0:05:39 > 0:05:42I entered it into a WI competition

0:05:42 > 0:05:46and went to see whether I'd won first, second or third.

0:05:47 > 0:05:51And there wasn't a certificate there, there was a list...

0:05:51 > 0:05:53of where I'd gone wrong.

0:05:53 > 0:05:55And it was quite a long list.

0:05:55 > 0:05:58So, if you're entering a WI competition,

0:05:58 > 0:05:59don't use this recipe.

0:06:01 > 0:06:05So, once you get the sugar and the water boiling like this,

0:06:05 > 0:06:07to a syrup, and then we can add our fruit.

0:06:09 > 0:06:13Keep the pan on the heat, keep it boiling.

0:06:13 > 0:06:15Now, this isn't a classic way to make jam.

0:06:15 > 0:06:19If you were doing this normally, you'd have to use some jam sugar,

0:06:19 > 0:06:22but I think it just speeds up the process.

0:06:22 > 0:06:25Boil down the fruit for five to six minutes to make a compote

0:06:25 > 0:06:26fit for a queen,

0:06:26 > 0:06:28if not the Women's Institute.

0:06:28 > 0:06:32Now, one tip that I did pick up from the WI was this.

0:06:32 > 0:06:34You've got your standard cooling rack,

0:06:34 > 0:06:36you take the tea towel and you place it

0:06:36 > 0:06:38over the top of the cooling rack,

0:06:38 > 0:06:42so when you cool down your sponges, you don't end up with any lines

0:06:42 > 0:06:45from the cooling rack indented into your sponge.

0:06:45 > 0:06:47Smart, that.

0:06:47 > 0:06:50Check that the sponges are ready by pressing your finger in the middle.

0:06:50 > 0:06:52They should spring back.

0:06:52 > 0:06:55If they do, take them out of their moulds.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57Now, all we need to do now

0:06:57 > 0:07:01is just leave that to cool for about five to ten minutes.

0:07:01 > 0:07:05While the sponges are cooling, whip the cream and you're nearly done.

0:07:08 > 0:07:11What I'm going to do is take just some of this compote first of all...

0:07:11 > 0:07:15And it is a compote, it's not really a jam, you can see the texture.

0:07:15 > 0:07:17It's not a jam that you can keep for any length of time

0:07:17 > 0:07:21and certainly not a jam you go entering competitions with.

0:07:22 > 0:07:25When Queen Victoria was around, she would have just had jam.

0:07:27 > 0:07:30But I like it with lightly whipped double cream.

0:07:33 > 0:07:35For a richer fruit hit,

0:07:35 > 0:07:39spoon on another layer of compote before adding the second sponge.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45Dust with icing sugar, then finish with mixed berries.

0:07:48 > 0:07:51Not only does it look good, it tastes fantastic.

0:07:52 > 0:07:53Now, I know what'll be happening -

0:07:53 > 0:07:57there'll be certain members of the WI shouting at the TV now.

0:08:00 > 0:08:01I'm sorry.

0:08:03 > 0:08:07A classic sponge like this can taste spectacular with the right filling.

0:08:07 > 0:08:10And if it was good enough for Queen Victoria,

0:08:10 > 0:08:11it's good enough for me.

0:08:13 > 0:08:17Admittedly, I do have a sweet tooth, but there's another type of food

0:08:17 > 0:08:20that I'm hugely passionate about - seafood.

0:08:20 > 0:08:25It's versatile, simple to cook, and since the UK has an abundance of it,

0:08:25 > 0:08:28there's no excuse not to give it a try.

0:08:30 > 0:08:32Ben George is a Cornish fisherman

0:08:32 > 0:08:34who believes that the best British fish

0:08:34 > 0:08:37is caught the slow, sustainable way.

0:08:37 > 0:08:41But if he wants a good catch, he's got to get up early.

0:08:41 > 0:08:42Very early.

0:08:42 > 0:08:44I've just left Sennen Cove Harbour.

0:08:44 > 0:08:48It's four o'clock in the morning. We've come away nice and early.

0:08:48 > 0:08:51Often, we have our best fishing in what we call the golden hour,

0:08:51 > 0:08:53which is the first hour of light.

0:08:53 > 0:08:57It's generally the best time because fish often feed at that time.

0:08:57 > 0:08:59Once the sun comes up, they go a bit dormant.

0:09:01 > 0:09:05Ben bags a spot two and a half miles out at sea to catch pollock,

0:09:05 > 0:09:09one of the top five selling fish in the UK.

0:09:09 > 0:09:11The trick to catching pollock is to present a bait

0:09:11 > 0:09:13in the most natural possible way.

0:09:13 > 0:09:15So, obviously, we want our baits to look like a fish,

0:09:15 > 0:09:17swim like a fish,

0:09:17 > 0:09:20and you end up actually thinking like a fish to outwit them.

0:09:23 > 0:09:26That's a nice pollock there. I'm quite happy with that.

0:09:27 > 0:09:31Pollock is from the same family as cod and haddock, which have

0:09:31 > 0:09:35both been massively overfished by fleets of net-drawing trawlers.

0:09:35 > 0:09:39Ben's approach to pollock is much more sustainable.

0:09:41 > 0:09:42That's quite a small pollock.

0:09:42 > 0:09:44That's what we call a juvenile pollock there.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47So, we can put that back now and it'll swim off to fight another day.

0:09:47 > 0:09:50And that's the beauty of handline fishing - whatever you catch,

0:09:50 > 0:09:52if it's too small, it can go straight back, totally unharmed.

0:09:57 > 0:10:00But they're not always easy to land.

0:10:00 > 0:10:03As dawn breaks, Ben has to change tactics.

0:10:06 > 0:10:08So, as the sun comes up, the fish are going down.

0:10:08 > 0:10:11They'll go down in the kelp and they'll have their cover.

0:10:11 > 0:10:13And so we're letting out a bit more line

0:10:13 > 0:10:15to get the lead in the bait down near the bottom.

0:10:15 > 0:10:19I can't really remember a time when I wasn't into fishing.

0:10:19 > 0:10:21I spent all my childhood messing around in rock pools,

0:10:21 > 0:10:25catching small fish, and in little boats with my brother.

0:10:25 > 0:10:29I actually started commercially fishing in 2004,

0:10:29 > 0:10:31so we're looking at 11 years ago.

0:10:31 > 0:10:34On a day like this, it's the best job in the world,

0:10:34 > 0:10:35I'm 100% sure of that,

0:10:35 > 0:10:38but when it's blowing a north-easterly five or six

0:10:38 > 0:10:41and there's a bit of swell running and you're not catching much,

0:10:41 > 0:10:42it's not quite so pleasant.

0:10:44 > 0:10:47Working alone against the elements makes for a hard life,

0:10:47 > 0:10:51but for Ben, moments like this make it all worthwhile.

0:10:51 > 0:10:54That's a cracker. It's like a bar of gold.

0:10:56 > 0:10:59Having landed his catch, Ben heads to the shore.

0:10:59 > 0:11:03A good morning's fishing. I've got about 80 kilo of pollock here.

0:11:03 > 0:11:06The seagulls are happy now. I think they've been waiting for their...

0:11:06 > 0:11:07for their brunch all morning.

0:11:09 > 0:11:10Think they're hungry?

0:11:10 > 0:11:13Wait till you see the gang of famished fishermen

0:11:13 > 0:11:14waiting on the quayside.

0:11:14 > 0:11:17Here we are, dinner is served.

0:11:19 > 0:11:20With fish this fresh,

0:11:20 > 0:11:25all you need to do is cook it simply to enjoy it at its best.

0:11:25 > 0:11:26Very hungry, yeah.

0:11:26 > 0:11:29I had a banana first thing and a couple of sandwiches, so...

0:11:29 > 0:11:32It's smelling good, it's looking good

0:11:32 > 0:11:34and ready to be dished up soon, I hope.

0:11:34 > 0:11:35Here we go.

0:11:36 > 0:11:39Thankfully, this fish just takes a few minutes to cook.

0:11:42 > 0:11:45It's good, isn't it? It's beautiful. Yeah, it's really nice.

0:11:45 > 0:11:48I say, old shipmate, that's a handsome bit of cooking.

0:11:48 > 0:11:49You could go a long way.

0:11:49 > 0:11:52It could be the start of something new, I think.

0:11:52 > 0:11:55Now, that's what I call a catch of the day.

0:11:57 > 0:12:01Fresh, simply-cooked seafood is a passion of mine,

0:12:01 > 0:12:04and I'm always looking for new ways to enjoy it.

0:12:04 > 0:12:07Now, I could do so many different types of fancy food using

0:12:07 > 0:12:10that lovely pollock, but just like the end bit there,

0:12:10 > 0:12:14it's just got to be served nice and simple.

0:12:14 > 0:12:16And they don't come any simpler than this -

0:12:16 > 0:12:21my battered pollock baguette with home-made mushy peas and lemon mayo.

0:12:21 > 0:12:25There's a seaside fish supper in every single bite.

0:12:25 > 0:12:27Now, first thing we're going to do is do our batter.

0:12:27 > 0:12:31Now, there are so many different types you can use for this,

0:12:31 > 0:12:35but this is my sort of tried and tested, proven one, really,

0:12:35 > 0:12:38cos I think the best fish and chips come from

0:12:38 > 0:12:40a little bit north of the border,

0:12:40 > 0:12:42and that's up in Yorkshire, of course.

0:12:42 > 0:12:47To make the batter, add yeast, sugar and salt to plain flour,

0:12:47 > 0:12:51a dash of cider vinegar and a great ingredient - beer.

0:12:51 > 0:12:53Of course, Yorkshire beer.

0:12:54 > 0:12:57But many beer batters, when you start off by making them,

0:12:57 > 0:12:59they can be quite heavy and stodgy.

0:12:59 > 0:13:02This, I find a much lighter version.

0:13:02 > 0:13:05You just mix this together.

0:13:05 > 0:13:06And what you're looking for is,

0:13:06 > 0:13:10I suppose, the consistency of school custard.

0:13:10 > 0:13:12Now, it depends where you went to school,

0:13:12 > 0:13:14but it shouldn't have any lumps in it,

0:13:14 > 0:13:18but it should resemble sort of that texture, really.

0:13:18 > 0:13:22That's certainly how the custard looked when I was at school.

0:13:22 > 0:13:25To give the batter a light and airy consistency,

0:13:25 > 0:13:27leave it to ferment for a few minutes,

0:13:27 > 0:13:31which will give you just enough time to make mayonnaise,

0:13:31 > 0:13:34which isn't as difficult as you might think.

0:13:34 > 0:13:37I'm actually allergic to shop-bought mayonnaise,

0:13:37 > 0:13:40but it is actually really simple to make.

0:13:40 > 0:13:44All you need to start off with is a couple of egg yolks.

0:13:44 > 0:13:48Now, if you do it in a machine, it's much quicker and much simpler.

0:13:48 > 0:13:52All you need is a touch of mustard and rapeseed oil.

0:13:52 > 0:13:55Add the oil slowly so that it doesn't curdle.

0:13:58 > 0:14:00After a couple of minutes, you'll see

0:14:00 > 0:14:02there's this lovely, thick texture.

0:14:02 > 0:14:05Now, I'm going to flavour this with the juice and zest of a lemon

0:14:05 > 0:14:08cos mayonnaise always needs a little bit of acidity.

0:14:08 > 0:14:12Next, add the juice of one lemon and season with salt and pepper.

0:14:16 > 0:14:17And then just blitz it again.

0:14:20 > 0:14:23And what we end up with is this delicious mayonnaise.

0:14:23 > 0:14:26And once you really learn the art of this,

0:14:26 > 0:14:30you can transform this into so many different types of sauces.

0:14:30 > 0:14:33A little bit of tartare sauce is exactly what I've done here

0:14:33 > 0:14:36with the addition of chopped capers, gherkins and herbs.

0:14:36 > 0:14:38Now, if you wanted to make your own salad cream,

0:14:38 > 0:14:41it's done exactly the same way, but using hardboiled egg yolks.

0:14:41 > 0:14:44And then just the final bit, you fold in a touch of whipped cream,

0:14:44 > 0:14:46and you've made your own salad cream like that.

0:14:46 > 0:14:51But this is perfect. Nice and thick. Exactly what we need for our fish.

0:14:53 > 0:14:56Pollock is the ideal fish for this recipe

0:14:56 > 0:14:59because it's so easy to cut up into chunks.

0:15:00 > 0:15:03Now, this idea of this recipe comes from actually Hastings,

0:15:03 > 0:15:05which is famous for Dover sole.

0:15:05 > 0:15:08And when I was walking around, I just visited a little stall,

0:15:08 > 0:15:10and they used these little slip soles,

0:15:10 > 0:15:13which are the smaller soles that they can't sell along the markets.

0:15:13 > 0:15:16They would just fillet them - nice and simple, just fillets -

0:15:16 > 0:15:19just fry them off in a little bit of flour, just with some butter,

0:15:19 > 0:15:22and then put them in a bread bun, just with some lemon mayonnaise.

0:15:22 > 0:15:25And you'd grab them and walk around, dodging the seagulls attacking you.

0:15:25 > 0:15:29But it was just fantastic and tasted superb.

0:15:29 > 0:15:32Now that the batter has puffed up, add a little more beer before

0:15:32 > 0:15:34dunking in your fish fillets,

0:15:34 > 0:15:37then deep-fry them in oil and dripping -

0:15:37 > 0:15:42the perfect combination to get the best colour and flavour.

0:15:42 > 0:15:46Now, you cannot have fish and chips without scraps,

0:15:46 > 0:15:48and we just take a little bit of the batter

0:15:48 > 0:15:50and drizzle this over the top.

0:15:50 > 0:15:53The best fish and chips, I have to say,

0:15:53 > 0:15:56definitely come from Yorkshire, in particular Whitby.

0:15:56 > 0:15:59It's kind of like the South of France,

0:15:59 > 0:16:01without the weather.

0:16:01 > 0:16:04And I judged the Fish and Chip Shop of the Year once.

0:16:04 > 0:16:05They gave it to a guy in Bournemouth.

0:16:05 > 0:16:08LAUGHTER Whether you prefer your

0:16:08 > 0:16:10fish and chips from Bournemouth or Whitby,

0:16:10 > 0:16:15you can't have proper fried fish without proper mushy peas.

0:16:15 > 0:16:17It's so easy to make your own mushy peas - you can buy them

0:16:17 > 0:16:20in a tin if you want - but these are just marrowfat peas.

0:16:20 > 0:16:23These are really easy to prepare. You get these generally in a packet.

0:16:23 > 0:16:25They contain a little tablet of bicarb soda.

0:16:25 > 0:16:28You put the bicarb and these and water together,

0:16:28 > 0:16:30just leave it overnight, and just boil them, really.

0:16:32 > 0:16:34Once the batter is golden brown,

0:16:34 > 0:16:37take the fish out of the fryer and set aside.

0:16:37 > 0:16:40Now it's time to assemble the best fish sandwich

0:16:40 > 0:16:42you're ever likely to eat.

0:16:44 > 0:16:48A sprinkling of salt over the top.

0:16:48 > 0:16:50A nice squeeze of lemon.

0:16:51 > 0:16:53How good does that look?

0:16:53 > 0:16:56All I need now is just a freezing cold, minus-six gale

0:16:56 > 0:16:58blasting through the door, and I'll feel at home.

0:16:58 > 0:17:02Slice the baguette in half and smother it in salted butter.

0:17:04 > 0:17:07Then cover the bread with a good dollop of the mushy peas.

0:17:09 > 0:17:11Put the fish on the top...

0:17:13 > 0:17:16..douse the fillets with the delicious lemon mayonnaise...

0:17:18 > 0:17:20..and then sprinkle on the gold dust.

0:17:20 > 0:17:22That's scraps to you and me.

0:17:22 > 0:17:24And listen.

0:17:24 > 0:17:27CRUNCHING

0:17:27 > 0:17:29Mmmm, mmm-mmm, mmm!

0:17:35 > 0:17:38Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho-ho! Yes!

0:17:40 > 0:17:41It's a thing of beauty.

0:17:45 > 0:17:48I haven't got a clue how you eat it, but it's a thing of beauty.

0:17:49 > 0:17:51Remember the scraps.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55This chunky sandwich is a true taste of the seaside

0:17:55 > 0:17:58and is perfect for sharing.

0:17:58 > 0:18:00Except in Whitby, where it'd be a portion for one.

0:18:06 > 0:18:09Throughout my years in the kitchen, and on the golf course,

0:18:09 > 0:18:13there's been one man constantly breathing down my neck -

0:18:13 > 0:18:16fellow Yorkshireman, and my mentor, Brian Turner.

0:18:18 > 0:18:21Some say he was cooking before Queen Victoria

0:18:21 > 0:18:24had her first slice of sponge.

0:18:24 > 0:18:26Not me, though. I wouldn't dare.

0:18:26 > 0:18:28Hello, mate. You brought the weather with you, didn't you?

0:18:28 > 0:18:33Yeah, at least I'm sober today. Not like last time! Come on in.

0:18:33 > 0:18:36Brian's bossed me around kitchens many a time,

0:18:36 > 0:18:40but today, we're in mine, so I'm choosing the dish.

0:18:42 > 0:18:45Perfect rump steak with creamy brioche leeks.

0:18:47 > 0:18:49Now, Brian, I thought what we'd do is griddled rump steak

0:18:49 > 0:18:51cos I know you like that. I do.

0:18:51 > 0:18:53Cos it is one of the basic cuts, really, I think.

0:18:53 > 0:18:55A lot of people go for sirloin nowadays, fillet.

0:18:55 > 0:18:57I think this is a cracking cut of meat.

0:18:57 > 0:18:59I think that's a lovely piece of meat there.

0:18:59 > 0:19:01This is a leek dish to go with it.

0:19:01 > 0:19:05Now, I like this cos it uses a combination of cream, leeks,

0:19:05 > 0:19:08potatoes, everything all in one dish,

0:19:08 > 0:19:10cos I like the simple sort of stuff with steak.

0:19:10 > 0:19:12Right, can you half fill that full of water for me, please?

0:19:12 > 0:19:14Yes, Chef. Thank you very much.

0:19:14 > 0:19:16It's the first time you've ever called me chef.

0:19:16 > 0:19:18While Brian adds water to the pan,

0:19:18 > 0:19:22I've got time to cube the potato for the creamy leeks.

0:19:22 > 0:19:25It's been a while, really, since we've known each other.

0:19:25 > 0:19:27I'd say I was eight years old when we first met.

0:19:27 > 0:19:30Yeah, I don't know if you remember the whole...the whole experience.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32We used to go up to a hotel,

0:19:32 > 0:19:36and your father used to come with the wines

0:19:36 > 0:19:37and used to speak there.

0:19:37 > 0:19:40You used to go up there and do these gourmet dinners, right? Yeah.

0:19:40 > 0:19:43There was a little commis chef with a necktie, a big tall chef's hat.

0:19:43 > 0:19:45That was me, I was probably about this high.

0:19:45 > 0:19:46Yeah. Fully, with a chef's hat on.

0:19:46 > 0:19:48Your hat was a big as your ego is today, kid.

0:19:48 > 0:19:52Get out! The next time we met was when you were at college,

0:19:52 > 0:19:54and we were judging your end-of-term,

0:19:54 > 0:19:56end-of-course examination.

0:19:56 > 0:20:00You judged my end-of-year exam, you did. I did, yes, yeah.

0:20:00 > 0:20:01I got it wrong.

0:20:01 > 0:20:03I thought you were good in those days.

0:20:03 > 0:20:06These are lovely, these induction tops, aren't they?

0:20:06 > 0:20:07Do you like them?

0:20:07 > 0:20:09But you've got to be in control. I can feel the power here.

0:20:09 > 0:20:11It's the modern way of cooking, you see, Bri.

0:20:11 > 0:20:14Yeah. We've moved on from coal.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17Have they? I wish they'd told me.

0:20:17 > 0:20:19Whatever you're cooking on, heat a pan

0:20:19 > 0:20:24and fry a finely chopped shallot and a garlic clove in butter.

0:20:24 > 0:20:27I'm going to cut these leeks, and you're going wash them for me,

0:20:27 > 0:20:30all right? The easiest way to do it is cut the leek all the way through

0:20:30 > 0:20:34like that, from top to tail, leaving the root on the top,

0:20:34 > 0:20:37attached. And then if you wash it with the water going down this way,

0:20:37 > 0:20:40none of the soil gets stuck inside the leek.

0:20:40 > 0:20:44If you wash it this way, the soil in this bit gets stuck in here.

0:20:44 > 0:20:47Anyway... 70 years of age, and I've just learnt something.

0:20:47 > 0:20:50Get out of here! We've always washed them like this, lad.

0:20:50 > 0:20:52Get it washed. Right?

0:20:52 > 0:20:55Chop the EXPERTLY washed leeks finely.

0:20:55 > 0:20:57Add to the pan with a drop of white wine.

0:21:02 > 0:21:03And drain the potatoes.

0:21:05 > 0:21:07We couldn't afford potato when I was a lad.

0:21:07 > 0:21:09Oh, right, go on. Right, go on, then.

0:21:09 > 0:21:11Now, a little bit fresh thyme. Yeah, lovely.

0:21:11 > 0:21:14I'm going to chop that up, sprinkle that in there.

0:21:14 > 0:21:17I'll put this in your pocket cos you'll only mither

0:21:17 > 0:21:19if I put it in the bin. You got a stock pot?

0:21:19 > 0:21:22Right, a little bit of that, and then we take some double cream.

0:21:22 > 0:21:24Ah, there's my lad.

0:21:24 > 0:21:27Right? So, we're going to bring this to the boil...

0:21:27 > 0:21:30Right. ..and give it a quick season, salt and pepper.

0:21:30 > 0:21:31Go on, then.

0:21:31 > 0:21:34I know you want to do it, I know you're itching to season it.

0:21:34 > 0:21:35I am, I am.

0:21:35 > 0:21:38I do think, in this modern day, we have to be careful of salt

0:21:38 > 0:21:40and sugar. Here we go, "When I was a lad,

0:21:40 > 0:21:43"we used to rub two twigs together and..." No, shut it. Go on.

0:21:43 > 0:21:45We have to be careful with salt and sugar that you add,

0:21:45 > 0:21:48but you have to add it to get flavour from it,

0:21:48 > 0:21:51at some stage, not always right at the beginning.

0:21:51 > 0:21:54Are you a pepper man? It's lovely, isn't it?

0:21:54 > 0:21:56So, did you always want to be a chef, then?

0:21:56 > 0:21:59Yes. A little birdie told me you wanted to be in a brass band,

0:21:59 > 0:22:02was your big thing. I've always been a brass band man.

0:22:02 > 0:22:05I love brass bands today, but I would never be good enough to play.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08My dad had a transport cafe when he came back from the last World War.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11And I, from the age of... Actually, I was probably about eight

0:22:11 > 0:22:13when I used to go down to his cafe,

0:22:13 > 0:22:16cos we had four kids in five years in our house.

0:22:16 > 0:22:19So, to give me mother a bit of rest, he took me down to his cafe,

0:22:19 > 0:22:21and I'd make bacon and sausage sandwiches

0:22:21 > 0:22:22on a Saturday morning with him.

0:22:22 > 0:22:26Right. And dip the top of the Yorkshire teacake

0:22:26 > 0:22:29in the bacon fat to get fried bread. And I tell you what,

0:22:29 > 0:22:31I'm salivating just thinking about it.

0:22:31 > 0:22:33It was really good stuff.

0:22:33 > 0:22:35And so I never really wanted to be anything else.

0:22:35 > 0:22:38Right. Are you going to toast off the breadcrumbs?

0:22:38 > 0:22:39I am, yes, yes, yes.

0:22:39 > 0:22:41There's a spoon in the pot if you want one.

0:22:41 > 0:22:43And then what we're going do is we're going to take this cream

0:22:43 > 0:22:46and brioche mixture, which I think is great with fish,

0:22:46 > 0:22:49it's great with beef, chicken, anything. It's just brilliant.

0:22:49 > 0:22:51Right, do I want to use up all these three?

0:22:51 > 0:22:53Just a little bit, go on.

0:22:53 > 0:22:56Cos I know you don't want to waste anything. Not at all, lad.

0:22:56 > 0:23:00And of course, it's got texture as well, so... The topping.

0:23:00 > 0:23:03Fill individual ovenproof dishes

0:23:03 > 0:23:06with two layers of creamy leeks and toasted brioche.

0:23:08 > 0:23:10Then top with grated Gruyere cheese

0:23:10 > 0:23:12and pop them in the oven until they're golden brown.

0:23:15 > 0:23:18Now, you don't get any more basic than cooking steak. No.

0:23:18 > 0:23:20So, we've got a basic chef here,

0:23:20 > 0:23:22who's now going to teach us how to do it.

0:23:22 > 0:23:25So, what I'm going to do first is just congratulate you

0:23:25 > 0:23:27and say that that's good... Congratulate me? Yes,

0:23:27 > 0:23:29because it's not been in the fridge.

0:23:29 > 0:23:32Too many people take a steak from the fridge to cook it.

0:23:32 > 0:23:35So, I'm going to use a bit of rapeseed oil

0:23:35 > 0:23:38cos I think it's got a lovely colour and it tastes good,

0:23:38 > 0:23:40and it's British.

0:23:40 > 0:23:44And just put a little bit of oil in there so it doesn't stick.

0:23:44 > 0:23:46Then you need to know how much... It doesn't stick,

0:23:46 > 0:23:47but you've just ruined my pastry brush.

0:23:47 > 0:23:50It's not mine, it's OK. I'm not here tomorrow.

0:23:50 > 0:23:52Right, fine, so that goes on there.

0:23:55 > 0:23:58And when he's not wrecking my utensils, Brian keeps

0:23:58 > 0:24:02an eye on his steak, but doesn't move it until one side is done.

0:24:02 > 0:24:04And controversially, he doesn't season it

0:24:04 > 0:24:06until halfway through the cooking.

0:24:06 > 0:24:09Now pay attention, here comes the science bit.

0:24:09 > 0:24:11Don't rush it.

0:24:11 > 0:24:15But remember that when you take it off, it will continue to cook,

0:24:15 > 0:24:18so you want to give it chance to repose.

0:24:18 > 0:24:21So, it's a bit like... Repose? Repose, yes. You've changed.

0:24:21 > 0:24:24R-E-P-O-S-E when you look it up.

0:24:24 > 0:24:26That means rest, doesn't it? It does, yes.

0:24:26 > 0:24:28I want to season this now. Now you put salt and pepper on it?

0:24:28 > 0:24:31Now I want to put salt and pepper on it.

0:24:31 > 0:24:34So, medium-rare, yeah?

0:24:34 > 0:24:37Yeah. How can you tell when it's medium-rare, then?

0:24:37 > 0:24:38I've just touched it.

0:24:40 > 0:24:42It's a good question,

0:24:42 > 0:24:45but the answer, as far as I'm concerned, is it's all by feel.

0:24:45 > 0:24:47While Brian butters his rump...

0:24:48 > 0:24:51..the brioche leeks are ready to come out of the oven.

0:24:53 > 0:24:54Check that out.

0:24:54 > 0:24:56I think that's a lovely dish, lad.

0:24:56 > 0:24:58But what I do need to do...

0:24:58 > 0:25:02Look, don't waste those juices, whatever you do.

0:25:05 > 0:25:09See, what you want to do, Brian, get a bit of this... Go on, then.

0:25:12 > 0:25:14It takes you back to the days of dripping and bread.

0:25:14 > 0:25:18It wasn't quite like this, lad, was it, eh, in Yorkshire? Yes, Dad.

0:25:19 > 0:25:21Shall we try this?

0:25:21 > 0:25:23Yeah. What do you want it, medium-rare? Yeah. OK.

0:25:25 > 0:25:27I tell you what, that's pretty good.

0:25:27 > 0:25:30Don't sound so surprised, Mr Martin. You surprise me.

0:25:30 > 0:25:32Right, a little bit of this.

0:25:35 > 0:25:40Can I tell you, whoever seasoned that is a genius.

0:25:40 > 0:25:42Do you know what? I'm happy with that.

0:25:42 > 0:25:47Oh, me too, the simplicity... Yeah. ..and basics, very tasty,

0:25:47 > 0:25:50and that couldn't be easier.

0:25:50 > 0:25:54So, back then, when you gave me my little tick on my exam...

0:25:54 > 0:25:58Yeah. ..think it paid off? Well, you've never paid me.

0:25:58 > 0:26:00I'll buy you a golf ball later.

0:26:00 > 0:26:03All right? It's just you end up losing quite a lot.

0:26:03 > 0:26:04Is that right?

0:26:04 > 0:26:07See, Brian gets worn out after about sort of nine holes of golf,

0:26:07 > 0:26:09that's cos I keep telling him he walks 18.

0:26:09 > 0:26:12Yeah. Cos to play golf, you're supposed to play in a straight line,

0:26:12 > 0:26:14whereas Brian goes like that. I'm a Yorkshireman.

0:26:14 > 0:26:17Whatever I pay to play golf, I get my money's worth

0:26:17 > 0:26:19cos I hit it twice as much as you hit it.

0:26:19 > 0:26:22I see some of the sights that you've never seen on a golf course.

0:26:22 > 0:26:25I know. You're like Attenborough, you're always in the woods.

0:26:25 > 0:26:26What are you doing? Right, anyway,

0:26:26 > 0:26:29just buzz off now, I'm going to finish this steak off.

0:26:29 > 0:26:33Right, Mr Turner, it's time to put your golf ball where your mouth is.

0:26:33 > 0:26:37Two men, one hole to play for, and a buggy with very little suspension.

0:26:40 > 0:26:41Oh! Mind that bunker.

0:26:50 > 0:26:53If this goes in the water, I'll never hear the end of it.

0:26:53 > 0:26:55Mind the water, James!

0:27:01 > 0:27:04Look at that for a shot, yes!

0:27:07 > 0:27:09Any time you like, James. Any time you like, I'm here.

0:27:11 > 0:27:13And here we are now at the National Golf Club...

0:27:13 > 0:27:14Brian, do be quiet!

0:27:17 > 0:27:19And it's coming... Oh, yes.

0:27:19 > 0:27:21It's not even a gimme. Go on, then.

0:27:24 > 0:27:26Go on, get in, get in.

0:27:26 > 0:27:29Yes! That's a boy.

0:27:30 > 0:27:32I'm driving. What you saying now?

0:27:32 > 0:27:34I'm driving.

0:27:35 > 0:27:38So, it looks like I'm going to have to go back to basics

0:27:38 > 0:27:41on the golf course as well as in the kitchen.

0:27:41 > 0:27:44But at least with classic recipes like these, I've got tasty treats

0:27:44 > 0:27:50to take my mind off the humiliation, food that tastes anything but basic.

0:27:50 > 0:27:52I'm never going to stop hearing about this.

0:27:52 > 0:27:54Nee-nee-nee... It's going to be like...

0:27:54 > 0:27:57Have you got a scorecard? Here we go, just get in.

0:27:57 > 0:27:58Just get in!

0:28:04 > 0:28:06Next time, Turner. Next time.

0:28:09 > 0:28:12You can find all the recipes from the series at...