Gloucester and the Cotswolds

Download Subtitles

Transcript

0:00:06 > 0:00:08My two passions are flying and food.

0:00:12 > 0:00:14And it's from up here you really get to appreciate

0:00:14 > 0:00:18the unique landscape that produces the food that I love to cook.

0:00:30 > 0:00:32So I've taken to the skies to show you how this land

0:00:32 > 0:00:34has influenced our larders.

0:00:41 > 0:00:43On my journey round the UK,

0:00:43 > 0:00:44I'm going to be meeting the people

0:00:44 > 0:00:47who work this ever-changing landscape...

0:00:48 > 0:00:50..revealing how this terrain

0:00:50 > 0:00:53has served up some of the country's best regional ingredients.

0:00:54 > 0:00:56It tastes so good!

0:00:56 > 0:00:58And also I'll be sharing some great recipes

0:00:58 > 0:01:00that showcase this amazing land

0:01:00 > 0:01:03that puts such great food on our tables.

0:01:04 > 0:01:07Today I'm heading to Gloucestershire and the Cotswolds.

0:01:23 > 0:01:26With its rolling hills, gentle lush farmland

0:01:26 > 0:01:28and picture-perfect villages,

0:01:28 > 0:01:31there are few parts of the country that can rival this region

0:01:31 > 0:01:34for its quintessential Englishness.

0:01:37 > 0:01:38Quaint, yes.

0:01:38 > 0:01:40But boring in terms of food, definitely not.

0:01:40 > 0:01:45This area is blessed with such a varied and exceptional bounty

0:01:45 > 0:01:47of fantastic ingredients.

0:01:47 > 0:01:50Gloucestershire is famed for its cheeses.

0:01:50 > 0:01:53The comically named Stinking Bishop hails from this county,

0:01:53 > 0:01:56made entirely from the milk of Gloucester cattle.

0:01:56 > 0:01:59And what about the Gloucestershire Old Spot pig,

0:01:59 > 0:02:03traditionally bred in local orchards for its succulent meat?

0:02:04 > 0:02:07From the air, it's hard to ignore the patchwork of fields,

0:02:07 > 0:02:09adding wheat, barley for local beers,

0:02:09 > 0:02:14and seasonal asparagus to this already fertile larder.

0:02:15 > 0:02:18But the icing on the cake is the mighty River Severn,

0:02:18 > 0:02:21which dissects this beautiful landscape.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24At 219 miles, it's Britain's longest river,

0:02:24 > 0:02:28and with a tidal range from the Bristol Channel to Gloucester,

0:02:28 > 0:02:30it provides another source of culinary delights

0:02:30 > 0:02:32for those who are prepared to put the effort in.

0:02:32 > 0:02:35One of the most unusual ingredients in this neck of the woods,

0:02:35 > 0:02:38one of the ingredients as a chef we look forward to,

0:02:38 > 0:02:39is wild salmon.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48This magnificent fish returns every year to breed in the Severn.

0:02:48 > 0:02:51With its fast-running water, extreme tides

0:02:51 > 0:02:53and shallow gravel beds,

0:02:53 > 0:02:55it's the perfect spawning ground.

0:02:58 > 0:03:01And one man who uses an ancient method to catch

0:03:01 > 0:03:05this rare and wonderful bounty is local fisherman John Powell.

0:03:05 > 0:03:11We think Severn salmon are absolutely superb, and quite easily the best.

0:03:11 > 0:03:13John uses a putcher rank -

0:03:13 > 0:03:17a 13th-century fishing technique using woven baskets.

0:03:17 > 0:03:19And only he and two others

0:03:19 > 0:03:22have the right to catch wild salmon in this way.

0:03:22 > 0:03:26My good friend Eric Jackson, who lives down in the village,

0:03:26 > 0:03:28is a master of putcher-making.

0:03:28 > 0:03:32His family have been involved in making these baskets

0:03:32 > 0:03:34for around 200 years.

0:03:34 > 0:03:37A putcher is a conical four-foot trap,

0:03:37 > 0:03:39woven from hazel and willow.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42It's wide at one end and narrow at the other,

0:03:42 > 0:03:44so once caught, the fish can't escape.

0:03:44 > 0:03:46Cos you can guarantee,

0:03:46 > 0:03:49the salmon, if there's a gap, he will find it.

0:03:50 > 0:03:53These wooden putchers last about two seasons,

0:03:53 > 0:03:55after which they have to be replaced.

0:03:55 > 0:03:57But they're very, very efficient.

0:03:57 > 0:04:02I can see no reason why we should really want metal putchers

0:04:02 > 0:04:05when we can still use wooden ones.

0:04:05 > 0:04:07They don't mark the fish so badly.

0:04:09 > 0:04:11Now, I'm looking forward to this.

0:04:11 > 0:04:12But firstly...I've got to wear these.

0:04:15 > 0:04:18It's literally 32 degrees out here. I'm sweating.

0:04:19 > 0:04:20And wearing rubber...

0:04:20 > 0:04:23is not what I had in mind this morning.

0:04:28 > 0:04:30Well, that's snug.

0:04:32 > 0:04:34If I don't come back,

0:04:34 > 0:04:36I've enjoyed it. I've had a wonderful life...

0:04:36 > 0:04:38This is ridiculous!

0:04:39 > 0:04:41- John!- James.- I made it.

0:04:41 > 0:04:43- Very nice to see you. - Good to see you.

0:04:43 > 0:04:45I've got a nice surprise for you.

0:04:45 > 0:04:47I mean, looking around, there's just you.

0:04:47 > 0:04:50You're right. The last man standing!

0:04:50 > 0:04:53Why? Is that because of trial and...?

0:04:53 > 0:04:56Is it difficult? It's got to be quite treacherous, really.

0:04:56 > 0:04:58Things have changed. People have changed.

0:04:58 > 0:05:00If you have a rank of putchers like this,

0:05:00 > 0:05:02you have to fish it twice a day, round the clock.

0:05:02 > 0:05:05For instance, I shall be back here in the morning at 3.30.

0:05:05 > 0:05:073.30 in the morning?!

0:05:07 > 0:05:08It's not everybody's cup of tea.

0:05:08 > 0:05:10Why do you do it, then?

0:05:11 > 0:05:12It's part of my way of life.

0:05:12 > 0:05:14Do you have a wife and TV at home?

0:05:14 > 0:05:16I do have a wife, yeah.

0:05:16 > 0:05:19- What does your wife say?- She says the Severn is my mistress.

0:05:19 > 0:05:22She's right. I spend more time in the river than I do with her!

0:05:24 > 0:05:26But it's really, really nice to be here.

0:05:26 > 0:05:28It is actually quite dangerous, isn't it?

0:05:28 > 0:05:31The water's come up three, four inches.

0:05:31 > 0:05:32Indeed, yeah.

0:05:33 > 0:05:35The River Severn's fast-running high tides

0:05:35 > 0:05:37make it ideal for putcher-fishing.

0:05:37 > 0:05:40As the water rises, it covers the rank,

0:05:40 > 0:05:42salmon get trapped, and because they can't reverse,

0:05:42 > 0:05:44they get stuck.

0:05:44 > 0:05:45That's a sea bass.

0:05:45 > 0:05:48- So you get sea bass in here? - Yes, we get sea bass, mullet.

0:05:48 > 0:05:51Mostly we're after fish.

0:05:51 > 0:05:54In the Severn, if you refer to "fish", you refer to salmon.

0:05:54 > 0:05:57Now, when I think of wild salmon, you think of Scottish wild salmon.

0:05:57 > 0:06:00Not the River Severn. So what makes yours so special?

0:06:00 > 0:06:02The fish come straight out of the sea.

0:06:02 > 0:06:03The fish we catch today

0:06:03 > 0:06:05will have been in the Bristol Channel yesterday,

0:06:05 > 0:06:08and the day before that, they'd have been in the Irish Sea.

0:06:08 > 0:06:10They're now with us.

0:06:10 > 0:06:11You can't get fish any fresher.

0:06:11 > 0:06:15Now, I've got one eye looking that way and one eye looking this way.

0:06:15 > 0:06:18- Because the River Severn's famous for the Severn bore.- It is indeed.

0:06:18 > 0:06:21A huge surge of water is funnelled up the river

0:06:21 > 0:06:24on the spring tides, creating a wave or bore,

0:06:24 > 0:06:26which has no effect on the fish,

0:06:26 > 0:06:28but is a real challenge for the fishermen.

0:06:28 > 0:06:30It creates huge problems for us.

0:06:30 > 0:06:33We've lost the inside of this rank of putchers.

0:06:33 > 0:06:34They should be to the shore,

0:06:34 > 0:06:37but the last Severn bore knocked the baskets out.

0:06:37 > 0:06:40- So we've got to rebuild that one. - When is the next one?

0:06:40 > 0:06:42- Wednesday.- Wednesday?- Yes.

0:06:42 > 0:06:44I'm looking at my watch!

0:06:44 > 0:06:45So we're all right?

0:06:45 > 0:06:48If you come with me, I've got something very special for you.

0:06:48 > 0:06:49Armbands.

0:06:50 > 0:06:53- What would you like - bass? - Just give me the pot!

0:06:53 > 0:06:54Yes.

0:06:54 > 0:06:56- We've got bass...- I'll take anything.

0:06:56 > 0:06:57Bass, salmon, anything you want.

0:06:57 > 0:07:00The greatest prize of all - the king of fish.

0:07:00 > 0:07:03- The Severn salmon.- This is the wild salmon?- This is the wild salmon.

0:07:03 > 0:07:06Would you like to reach in? You've got longer arms than me.

0:07:06 > 0:07:09When do you think this went in the net - last night?

0:07:09 > 0:07:12This one went in early this morning.

0:07:12 > 0:07:15- Here we are, James.- A River Severn salmon - look at that!

0:07:16 > 0:07:18- It needs to be slipped. - What are you doing now?

0:07:18 > 0:07:21I'm slipping it so we can carry it out of the water.

0:07:21 > 0:07:23You've done that before, haven't you?

0:07:23 > 0:07:25- Just once or twice! - Just once or twice.

0:07:25 > 0:07:30I notice you're doing that and you've got one eye out upstream.

0:07:30 > 0:07:33- Is that because...?- I like to know what time the tide's due back.

0:07:33 > 0:07:36If you could carry that one, I'll go and fetch the other fish.

0:07:36 > 0:07:38I will do that. How long will you be?

0:07:38 > 0:07:41- An hour.- An hour. That gives me an hour to get back.

0:07:41 > 0:07:43Running.

0:07:43 > 0:07:44Take care!

0:07:44 > 0:07:47So that should give me just enough time

0:07:47 > 0:07:49to prepare a simple, seasonal dish

0:07:49 > 0:07:51to do justice to this majestic fish.

0:07:51 > 0:07:54For me, it would be absolute sacrilege

0:07:54 > 0:07:57to do anything other than poach wild salmon.

0:07:57 > 0:08:00Because this is really, to me, the king of all fish.

0:08:00 > 0:08:02And one ingredient that really goes well with it

0:08:02 > 0:08:05and is in season right at the same time as wild salmon

0:08:05 > 0:08:06is asparagus.

0:08:06 > 0:08:07I'm going to do a classic dish

0:08:07 > 0:08:11of poached wild salmon, asparagus and a classic hollandaise sauce.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13But first thing, I need to make my little court bouillon.

0:08:13 > 0:08:15Because this is a big fish,

0:08:15 > 0:08:16we need a big fish kettle.

0:08:16 > 0:08:20And you always start in cold water for this.

0:08:20 > 0:08:22So we put plenty of water in.

0:08:22 > 0:08:24You need enough to cover the fish, ideally.

0:08:24 > 0:08:28Then what we need to do is get a selection of vegetables.

0:08:28 > 0:08:30We need a bit of leek, which we can chop up.

0:08:33 > 0:08:34Some fennel.

0:08:34 > 0:08:37You can rough-chop it, really.

0:08:37 > 0:08:39You can use onions or shallots.

0:08:39 > 0:08:40You can even, to be honest,

0:08:40 > 0:08:43cut it with the skins on, straight the way through, if you wanted to.

0:08:43 > 0:08:45We've got carrots.

0:08:47 > 0:08:48Throw them in.

0:08:48 > 0:08:50Little bit of lemon.

0:08:50 > 0:08:51Cut that in half.

0:08:51 > 0:08:54Then what we're going to do is make a classic bouquet garni,

0:08:54 > 0:08:56which sounds more elaborate than it really is.

0:08:56 > 0:09:00Often when you buy them, they're in a sort of teabag,

0:09:00 > 0:09:02which is a mixture of different herbs.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05So with my fish kettle on, I'm going to make a brew

0:09:05 > 0:09:08by adding a bundle of bay leaves, parsley, tarragon and thyme.

0:09:08 > 0:09:11These aromatic herbs will gently infuse with the salmon

0:09:11 > 0:09:14to complement its delicate taste.

0:09:14 > 0:09:17So when you've got these bouquet garnis ready,

0:09:17 > 0:09:18just pop them in the water.

0:09:18 > 0:09:21But before I get my hands on that fish,

0:09:21 > 0:09:23I quickly need to finish the stock.

0:09:23 > 0:09:25And for added flavour,

0:09:25 > 0:09:27a handful of black peppercorns.

0:09:28 > 0:09:29And then finally...

0:09:29 > 0:09:31white wine vinegar.

0:09:31 > 0:09:35What the vinegar and lemon will do is really set the fish.

0:09:35 > 0:09:37And then we really need to prepare our salmon.

0:09:37 > 0:09:40So this has kindly been gutted for me.

0:09:40 > 0:09:43Now, for this, you need proper scaling tools, ideally.

0:09:43 > 0:09:46Now, what you need to do is work from the tail

0:09:46 > 0:09:48down to the head.

0:09:48 > 0:09:51And there's no way of doing this other than just get stuck in

0:09:51 > 0:09:53and dive in and really scrape...

0:09:55 > 0:09:56..the scales off.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59And of course your fisherman or fishmonger

0:09:59 > 0:10:01will be able to do this for you.

0:10:03 > 0:10:05And it's really when you wash it off

0:10:05 > 0:10:07with fresh water,

0:10:07 > 0:10:10you can see how amazing this fish is. Just look at that!

0:10:12 > 0:10:13I'm not a fisherman,

0:10:13 > 0:10:15but you've got to love this place

0:10:15 > 0:10:17and you've got to love England

0:10:17 > 0:10:19to think that that comes out of there.

0:10:19 > 0:10:21It's just an amazing creature, innit, really?

0:10:21 > 0:10:23Beautiful.

0:10:25 > 0:10:26Now, I've got to get up.

0:10:26 > 0:10:28I said to the producer,

0:10:28 > 0:10:30I said that I was a size 10 in waders,

0:10:30 > 0:10:34not a woman's size 10 in waders, so I can't actually get up

0:10:34 > 0:10:35other than...

0:10:35 > 0:10:37rolling this way.

0:10:45 > 0:10:47It needs a little bit of room down with me here.

0:10:47 > 0:10:49Just pop him in there.

0:10:49 > 0:10:50Like that.

0:10:51 > 0:10:53And just let him just cook

0:10:53 > 0:10:55in there, like that.

0:10:55 > 0:10:57With the lemon, all the veg.

0:10:57 > 0:10:59Get the heat on now.

0:11:00 > 0:11:02For perfectly poached salmon,

0:11:02 > 0:11:04simply bring it to the boil.

0:11:06 > 0:11:08Next, concentrate on this hollandaise.

0:11:08 > 0:11:10What I'm going to do is just put the butter in the pan.

0:11:10 > 0:11:13You cannot make this with margarine

0:11:13 > 0:11:15or olive oil, anything like that.

0:11:15 > 0:11:17It's got to be full-on butter.

0:11:17 > 0:11:19Two blocks of butter in here.

0:11:19 > 0:11:22And what we're going to do is clarify this.

0:11:22 > 0:11:24It's to actually separate the salts. We need to get rid of those,

0:11:24 > 0:11:25and to get rid of those,

0:11:25 > 0:11:28we bring it to the boil and just gently cook it, gently simmer it

0:11:28 > 0:11:31for about two minutes, leave it to one side and let it cool.

0:11:31 > 0:11:34And that way, it's perfect for our hollandaise.

0:11:36 > 0:11:39So I think this is boiling now, so what we need to do is double-check.

0:11:41 > 0:11:43You can smell all those lovely flavours in here,

0:11:43 > 0:11:45which is going to infuse into this wild salmon.

0:11:45 > 0:11:48The most important thing is, we don't want to overcook it,

0:11:48 > 0:11:51so as soon as it comes to the boil - from cold water, that is -

0:11:51 > 0:11:52turn the heat off.

0:11:52 > 0:11:55That should be ready in about five or ten minutes.

0:11:55 > 0:11:56And that's it. You just leave it.

0:11:56 > 0:11:59Now the butter is boiled,

0:11:59 > 0:12:01it can clarify and separate as it cools,

0:12:01 > 0:12:03ready for the hollandaise.

0:12:03 > 0:12:05But first, I've got the tricky bit -

0:12:05 > 0:12:07hand-whisking three egg yolks over a pan of hot water.

0:12:11 > 0:12:14This is not the classic way of doing a hollandaise.

0:12:14 > 0:12:16Normally you'd make a reduction with shallots,

0:12:16 > 0:12:18little bit of white wine, white wine vinegar.

0:12:18 > 0:12:21And use that with a few white peppercorns

0:12:21 > 0:12:23to flavour our hollandaise,

0:12:23 > 0:12:26but this is kind of the quick way.

0:12:28 > 0:12:31The texture's starting to change on the egg yolks.

0:12:31 > 0:12:33This is what we're really looking for

0:12:33 > 0:12:35before we add the butter.

0:12:35 > 0:12:37Slightly cooked.

0:12:37 > 0:12:40Not overcooked, or they start to separate and split.

0:12:40 > 0:12:43You can tell that when it actually starts to stick to the edges.

0:12:43 > 0:12:45It means it's cooking too much.

0:12:45 > 0:12:47We can take this to one side

0:12:47 > 0:12:49and then we can pour this mixture.

0:12:49 > 0:12:51Now, we only take the top part of the butter.

0:12:51 > 0:12:53Gradually...

0:12:53 > 0:12:55we add this to the egg yolks.

0:12:58 > 0:13:01I normally give it to somebody else in my restaurant kitchen to do.

0:13:01 > 0:13:03Nowadays, we've got machines to do it now.

0:13:03 > 0:13:06Mine's called Jason. He's 18 years old.

0:13:08 > 0:13:11We can add a touch of vinegar now. Just a tiny bit.

0:13:12 > 0:13:13It'll give it a little kick.

0:13:13 > 0:13:15Salt.

0:13:15 > 0:13:16That's it.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20Now for the perfect accompaniment to wild salmon -

0:13:20 > 0:13:22fresh local asparagus,

0:13:22 > 0:13:25just dropped into boiling water for a couple of minutes.

0:13:27 > 0:13:29So with new-season asparagus like this,

0:13:29 > 0:13:31you want to only cook it

0:13:31 > 0:13:33for no more than a couple of minutes, if that.

0:13:33 > 0:13:35Just drain off the water.

0:13:38 > 0:13:39So I'm just going to finish this...

0:13:41 > 0:13:43..just with some of this butter...

0:13:44 > 0:13:45..over the top.

0:13:47 > 0:13:49Grab our plate

0:13:49 > 0:13:52and put the asparagus on the plate.

0:13:54 > 0:13:57You can lift it out as it is. Be really careful.

0:13:57 > 0:13:59You don't want to break the fish, really.

0:14:02 > 0:14:04Don't worry about all the veg.

0:14:06 > 0:14:07Look at that.

0:14:08 > 0:14:10You've got this beautiful piece of fish.

0:14:10 > 0:14:12Just simply cooked.

0:14:14 > 0:14:17It should just peel off, like that...

0:14:20 > 0:14:22..to reveal this beautiful flesh.

0:14:22 > 0:14:24Now, it's a totally different taste,

0:14:24 > 0:14:26wild salmon, to farmed salmon.

0:14:26 > 0:14:29You've got to try it to understand

0:14:29 > 0:14:31why chefs harp on about it so much,

0:14:31 > 0:14:34and, to be honest, why it costs what it costs.

0:14:34 > 0:14:36The flavour is so much better.

0:14:36 > 0:14:37Nothing too fancy.

0:14:40 > 0:14:42Just chunks of fish.

0:14:44 > 0:14:45Nothing better, really, than...

0:14:45 > 0:14:49serving a big fish like this at the table.

0:14:49 > 0:14:51And then...

0:14:51 > 0:14:53just a dollop of this on the side.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00What more do you want? You've got English asparagus,

0:15:00 > 0:15:02hollandaise sauce,

0:15:02 > 0:15:04and poached wild salmon.

0:15:04 > 0:15:05It doesn't get any better, does it?

0:15:07 > 0:15:08Amazing place.

0:15:09 > 0:15:11Wild salmon really is the king of fish.

0:15:11 > 0:15:14Cooked simply, with these classic accompaniments,

0:15:14 > 0:15:16it's a mouth-watering treat.

0:15:16 > 0:15:18But when delivered from the putcher to the plate

0:15:18 > 0:15:20within a matter of hours,

0:15:20 > 0:15:22next to the majestic River Severn,

0:15:22 > 0:15:23you can't beat it.

0:15:36 > 0:15:38From the river to the hills.

0:15:38 > 0:15:41I'm heading inland to the region's arable heartland.

0:15:48 > 0:15:51Now, the Cotswolds may be an area of outstanding natural beauty,

0:15:51 > 0:15:55but it's also an area of fantastic agriculture.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58As you travel north, the soil changes

0:15:58 > 0:16:01from a shallow limestone base to a deeper loam clay,

0:16:01 > 0:16:05which is perfect for growing cereal crops like wheat and barley.

0:16:05 > 0:16:07And thanks to its sheltered climate,

0:16:07 > 0:16:10this fertile soil also produces a wide range

0:16:10 > 0:16:12of Britain's fruit and veg.

0:16:14 > 0:16:17So far most of the produce I've seen on my food journey

0:16:17 > 0:16:19thrive in specific regions,

0:16:19 > 0:16:23but the crop I'm interested in today is happy to grow almost anywhere.

0:16:24 > 0:16:27Rather than being shaped by the landscape, in recent years,

0:16:27 > 0:16:30it's actually transformed the look of our countryside.

0:16:30 > 0:16:34Oilseed rape is mostly used for cattle feed and bio-fuel

0:16:34 > 0:16:40and has seen its production leap by 250% since the 1980s.

0:16:40 > 0:16:43But obviously, I wouldn't be here unless I could eat it.

0:16:43 > 0:16:46This area's filled with yellow fields,

0:16:46 > 0:16:49producing oil, and that's rapeseed oil.

0:16:49 > 0:16:52So I've come to the Cotswolds to accept a challenge.

0:16:52 > 0:16:56I believe that Yorkshire produces some of the best rapeseed oil,

0:16:56 > 0:16:59but there's a guy down here that thinks differently.

0:17:00 > 0:17:03Charlie Beldam is from a third-generation Cotswolds farming family,

0:17:03 > 0:17:06and he's passionate about the business.

0:17:06 > 0:17:10But this young farmer hasn't let the grass grow under his feet.

0:17:10 > 0:17:13While still at agricultural college,

0:17:13 > 0:17:16he revolutionised the way his family farm oilseed rape.

0:17:18 > 0:17:22For the last three years, we've been making extra-virgin rapeseed oil.

0:17:25 > 0:17:28And while these yellow fields are good for the land,

0:17:28 > 0:17:30as they help prevent disease and soil erosion,

0:17:30 > 0:17:33the golden oil they produce is rich in omega-3

0:17:33 > 0:17:35and low in saturated fat,

0:17:35 > 0:17:37making it great for us as well.

0:17:37 > 0:17:40You can use it for salad dressings, home-made mayonnaise,

0:17:40 > 0:17:42stir-frying, wok cooking, shallow frying.

0:17:42 > 0:17:44So it's got fantastic versatility.

0:17:44 > 0:17:47Well, we're all agreed it's a fabulous ingredient,

0:17:47 > 0:17:49but surely Yorkshire's is best?

0:17:49 > 0:17:51With James being a Yorkshireman,

0:17:51 > 0:17:53it'll be interesting to see what he has to say.

0:17:53 > 0:17:55So I think the challenge is on.

0:17:55 > 0:17:58- Hi there, Charlie.- Hi, James. - How are you doing?- Good, thanks.

0:17:58 > 0:18:00- Tending your crop.- We are indeed.

0:18:00 > 0:18:02Now, when I think of rapeseed oil,

0:18:02 > 0:18:05I think of this beautiful yellow, golden colour,

0:18:05 > 0:18:07which produces amazing dressings,

0:18:07 > 0:18:10- but you don't actually use the flowers, do you?- No.

0:18:10 > 0:18:12The best way of describing a rapeseed plant

0:18:12 > 0:18:13is a bit like an apple tree.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15You get the fruit after the flower.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17So everything's in flower at the moment.

0:18:17 > 0:18:19These are all dropping away.

0:18:19 > 0:18:20And as you can see in here,

0:18:20 > 0:18:22we've got these pods.

0:18:22 > 0:18:24And they're just starting to thicken up.

0:18:24 > 0:18:26They're kind of like French beans, these.

0:18:26 > 0:18:28They are. So you can see the seeds in here.

0:18:28 > 0:18:31In the next couple of months, this will swell.

0:18:31 > 0:18:35The seeds will actually turn black. They'll swell and fill with oil.

0:18:35 > 0:18:38And that's our raw ingredient, so that's what we cold-press

0:18:38 > 0:18:39to make the glorious oil.

0:18:39 > 0:18:42How many bottles will be produced out of this five-acre plot?

0:18:42 > 0:18:46We'd hope to get about 2,500 bottles from a field about this big.

0:18:46 > 0:18:48- It's a lot.- It is.

0:18:48 > 0:18:49Apparently, someone counted

0:18:49 > 0:18:52and there's 200,000 little black seeds in half a litre.

0:18:52 > 0:18:55- You've got too much time on your hands!- I know.

0:18:55 > 0:18:58- Can we see it being made?- We can. Let's go and have a look.

0:19:01 > 0:19:03So this is the raw product.

0:19:03 > 0:19:06So, from the yellow flowers that we've just had, these may be black...

0:19:07 > 0:19:10..but when we crush into them, you'll see the yellow that's come through.

0:19:11 > 0:19:13Straight away, yeah.

0:19:15 > 0:19:16SO this is really what we're doing,

0:19:16 > 0:19:18but on a bigger scale.

0:19:18 > 0:19:19So you've got the yellow pods.

0:19:19 > 0:19:22If I took that away, you'd see we've got a bit of oil left on that.

0:19:22 > 0:19:23So in this is 46% oil,

0:19:23 > 0:19:27and we aim to get about 30% of the oil out of these seeds.

0:19:27 > 0:19:30We've got a screw that is pressing it along.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32All this section is cold.

0:19:32 > 0:19:34And that is where the oil is being extracted.

0:19:34 > 0:19:36We fill one of these containers.

0:19:36 > 0:19:39We'll then siphon that off and pump it through some filters.

0:19:39 > 0:19:42At this point, nothing added, but nothing taken away.

0:19:42 > 0:19:43So you get that amazing goldness.

0:19:43 > 0:19:45And then it's ready for bottling.

0:19:45 > 0:19:47- And that's it?- And that's it. - Fantastic.

0:19:47 > 0:19:49I suppose we're going to taste it, then?

0:19:49 > 0:19:51Much like good wine,

0:19:51 > 0:19:53the oil's flavour and colour depends on the seed variety,

0:19:53 > 0:19:56the region and climate in which it's produced,

0:19:56 > 0:19:58and its harvest time.

0:19:58 > 0:20:00We're testing a selection of oils

0:20:00 > 0:20:02from right across the UK.

0:20:04 > 0:20:06Different colours, straight away.

0:20:06 > 0:20:07Big difference.

0:20:07 > 0:20:10I think this is where, hopefully, my oil will shine through.

0:20:10 > 0:20:12Go on, then. Let's go to Hampshire first.

0:20:12 > 0:20:13Let's do it.

0:20:13 > 0:20:16Hampshire's much more yellow.

0:20:19 > 0:20:22The first thing you notice is it's not as peppery as olive oil.

0:20:22 > 0:20:24It's totally unique, totally different taste.

0:20:24 > 0:20:26- It doesn't leave a film over the mouth.- It's clean.- It is.

0:20:26 > 0:20:28Now for the Devon.

0:20:32 > 0:20:34- A very different flavour.- Yeah.

0:20:34 > 0:20:36Go on, then. Shall we try yours?

0:20:36 > 0:20:37Let's see.

0:20:47 > 0:20:48You're safe so far.

0:20:48 > 0:20:50It's a light oil.

0:20:50 > 0:20:52It's got a very nutty flavour to it.

0:20:52 > 0:20:54Of course, I'm going to say that wins before I try the others!

0:20:54 > 0:20:57Out of the three so far, I would say that was...

0:20:59 > 0:21:02- The colour is definitely there. - The colour's there.

0:21:02 > 0:21:06There's a little bit of nuttiness to it, but you get a longer flavour.

0:21:06 > 0:21:08The flavour holds in your palate a little bit more.

0:21:08 > 0:21:10- Shall we go to Scotland then? - Let's do it.

0:21:10 > 0:21:14See if the Scots can make it as good as you guys.

0:21:22 > 0:21:23Nice, but...

0:21:25 > 0:21:28- It's a completely different taste. - Totally different, isn't it?

0:21:28 > 0:21:31Let's try the last one, where I'm sure you'll be a bit biased.

0:21:31 > 0:21:34What, God's own country? Go on, then!

0:21:43 > 0:21:45Pretty similar to ours, I'd say.

0:21:45 > 0:21:47I'm not saying this from being here,

0:21:47 > 0:21:49because I wanted a genuine taste test,

0:21:49 > 0:21:51but, you know, the balance

0:21:51 > 0:21:54seems to be more with you, really, I suppose.

0:21:54 > 0:21:55In terms of the pepperiness...

0:21:55 > 0:21:58It lingers in the mouth a little bit longer.

0:21:58 > 0:22:01- Thank you. That's what we like to hear!- So am I cooking with this?

0:22:01 > 0:22:02I think so.

0:22:02 > 0:22:04I'm also cooking with this!

0:22:04 > 0:22:05And the dish I've picked

0:22:05 > 0:22:08perfectly demonstrates the versatility of this beautiful oil.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11I'll be using it to deep-fry some Spanish croquetas

0:22:11 > 0:22:15and to add a real depth of flavour and a dash of gold colour

0:22:15 > 0:22:16to a dipping mayonnaise.

0:22:17 > 0:22:21To make this, first of all, we need about 75g of butter.

0:22:21 > 0:22:23That's going to go straight in the pan.

0:22:23 > 0:22:27Now, the idea of this is you create quite a thick roux.

0:22:27 > 0:22:30Now, unlike croquettes we're so used to in the UK,

0:22:30 > 0:22:32which are potato-based,

0:22:32 > 0:22:35this one is actually sauce-based.

0:22:35 > 0:22:36Melt the butter.

0:22:36 > 0:22:38Throw the flour in.

0:22:38 > 0:22:40It actually doesn't all come together,

0:22:40 > 0:22:42because there's so much flour added to it.

0:22:42 > 0:22:44So just cook this a little bit.

0:22:44 > 0:22:46No more than that. Then we can start adding our milk.

0:22:46 > 0:22:48Just cold milk, straight in.

0:22:48 > 0:22:50Don't add too much.

0:22:50 > 0:22:54What you want to do is just cook this slightly.

0:22:54 > 0:22:57If you add this quite quickly, it'll go lumpy.

0:22:57 > 0:22:58Once you get to this stage,

0:22:58 > 0:23:01it's advisable just to swap the wooden spoon.

0:23:01 > 0:23:04It's a good tip if you're actually making a white sauce as well.

0:23:04 > 0:23:06This is a way of cheating.

0:23:07 > 0:23:10Very quickly, it will start to come together as this paste.

0:23:14 > 0:23:16But it will become very thick.

0:23:16 > 0:23:18It's unlike a traditional white sauce,

0:23:18 > 0:23:20where you want it quite smooth.

0:23:21 > 0:23:23We're just bringing this all together.

0:23:23 > 0:23:26If you wonder why I'm doing this and not something traditionally British,

0:23:26 > 0:23:28I was actually in Spain last week.

0:23:28 > 0:23:31I just couldn't resist this, because they have it with a mayonnaise

0:23:31 > 0:23:33and I thought it would be perfect

0:23:33 > 0:23:35if I make the mayonnaise with this lovely rapeseed oil,

0:23:35 > 0:23:38but also, because the oil is so good, I can deep-fry these in it.

0:23:38 > 0:23:42You're just bringing this together now. You can see the texture of it.

0:23:42 > 0:23:44So we can turn the heat off now.

0:23:45 > 0:23:48I've got some...Serrano ham.

0:23:48 > 0:23:50Now, this stuff is delicious.

0:23:50 > 0:23:53Spain is so famous for its pork and its ham.

0:23:53 > 0:23:55But then we've got to use this.

0:23:55 > 0:23:57This is Gloucester Old Spot ham.

0:23:57 > 0:24:01This famous pig from around this neck of the woods.

0:24:02 > 0:24:05We're just going to add a little bit of parsley to this.

0:24:05 > 0:24:08Really for a little bit of colour and flavour, of course.

0:24:08 > 0:24:09Throw that in.

0:24:10 > 0:24:12Seasoning-wise...

0:24:12 > 0:24:15black pepper. It's really important to season it properly at this stage.

0:24:15 > 0:24:17And salt.

0:24:17 > 0:24:19You do need quite a bit of salt with this.

0:24:21 > 0:24:23Then just at the end, I've got some breadcrumbs.

0:24:23 > 0:24:25This is going to bind it all together.

0:24:27 > 0:24:28And then just mix.

0:24:31 > 0:24:33This is the sort of texture that you're looking for.

0:24:33 > 0:24:35It wants to be soft in the middle.

0:24:35 > 0:24:37So once we get to that stage...

0:24:39 > 0:24:41..take it and pop it into our bowl.

0:24:43 > 0:24:45Let this go nice and cold.

0:24:47 > 0:24:48So while that's cooling down,

0:24:48 > 0:24:51I thought I'd make some mayonnaise, using some of this.

0:24:51 > 0:24:52I'd better use the right one,

0:24:52 > 0:24:54otherwise he'll tell me off.

0:24:54 > 0:24:55You get this beautiful colour.

0:24:55 > 0:24:57You can see that colour -

0:24:57 > 0:24:59beautiful yellow colour.

0:24:59 > 0:25:01That's going to turn our mayonnaise into the same colour.

0:25:01 > 0:25:03And you get a great flavour from this as well.

0:25:03 > 0:25:06Use really good, organic eggs.

0:25:06 > 0:25:09Just two or three eggs, really.

0:25:10 > 0:25:11To start with.

0:25:13 > 0:25:16So we add just a tiny little bit of English mustard.

0:25:16 > 0:25:18Then really start this with a whisk.

0:25:20 > 0:25:23The idea being that you emulsify

0:25:23 > 0:25:25the oil with the egg yolks.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28And you do that by adding it just nice and gently at first.

0:25:28 > 0:25:30If the oil's added too quick,

0:25:30 > 0:25:32it'll split and separate.

0:25:32 > 0:25:35You can see now it's getting thicker.

0:25:39 > 0:25:41And I'm getting more knackered!

0:25:42 > 0:25:45Tiny bit of white wine vinegar just at the end.

0:25:45 > 0:25:47And then some garlic.

0:25:49 > 0:25:50Quick mix.

0:25:50 > 0:25:52Touch of black pepper.

0:25:55 > 0:25:56And some salt.

0:25:58 > 0:26:01And there you have it - a quick and simple mayonnaise,

0:26:01 > 0:26:03done with rapeseed oil.

0:26:05 > 0:26:06I need a new arm!

0:26:06 > 0:26:09Now we can get ready for deep-fat frying.

0:26:09 > 0:26:11And this is where this particular oil is so good.

0:26:11 > 0:26:14We've got to deep-fry in the Yorkshire one, really.

0:26:15 > 0:26:17I didn't really want to upset Charlie.

0:26:17 > 0:26:19We'll actually use a little bit of his oil as well.

0:26:19 > 0:26:22Just a touch. Then we can take our cooled mixture.

0:26:22 > 0:26:24It is actually quite sticky.

0:26:24 > 0:26:25But we need it sticky.

0:26:25 > 0:26:27Don't forget, when we cook it...

0:26:29 > 0:26:31..it actually melts again.

0:26:31 > 0:26:33So we mould these into nice little croquettes.

0:26:33 > 0:26:37There'll be people watching this in their little villas over in Spain,

0:26:37 > 0:26:40thinking, "That's not right. Ours are much smaller."

0:26:40 > 0:26:44I'm a Yorkshireman, right? This is a Yorkshire portion.

0:26:44 > 0:26:46We call this a canape where I come from.

0:26:46 > 0:26:48None of that piddly little tapas stuff.

0:26:48 > 0:26:50Proper size.

0:26:51 > 0:26:54To ensure you seal in all those delicious flavours,

0:26:54 > 0:26:57dip the croquettes into flour, egg and breadcrumbs

0:26:57 > 0:26:59and then drop them into the golden oil,

0:26:59 > 0:27:01making sure the oil is really hot.

0:27:01 > 0:27:03That way, the outside, you'll get the crunch

0:27:03 > 0:27:05and the inside will stay soft.

0:27:15 > 0:27:18Get some of this lovely yellow mayonnaise...

0:27:18 > 0:27:21It's amazing you get the colour just from the seeds.

0:27:21 > 0:27:23And of course

0:27:23 > 0:27:25you've got these ham croquetas.

0:27:25 > 0:27:27When you break it...

0:27:28 > 0:27:30..you get that sort of texture

0:27:30 > 0:27:34that you can then dunk in the mayonnaise.

0:27:37 > 0:27:38And eat!

0:27:40 > 0:27:42It's classically Spanish.

0:27:43 > 0:27:45We're in Gloucestershire.

0:27:45 > 0:27:47Cotswolds oil,

0:27:47 > 0:27:48cooked by a Yorkshireman.

0:27:48 > 0:27:49Confused?

0:27:49 > 0:27:53So am I. But who needs Spain? You've got it right here. Look at it.

0:27:57 > 0:27:59Although it's a Spanish dish,

0:27:59 > 0:28:02it's infused with the colour and taste of the Cotswolds.

0:28:02 > 0:28:04From the deep yellow mayonnaise

0:28:04 > 0:28:06to the golden brown ham croquette,

0:28:06 > 0:28:09it truly reflects the landscape in which it was cooked.

0:28:11 > 0:28:14My food journey today has taken me from the majestic River Severn

0:28:14 > 0:28:16to the golden fields of the Cotswolds

0:28:16 > 0:28:18and offered such treats

0:28:18 > 0:28:21as rich-tasting fresh wild salmon

0:28:21 > 0:28:23and the nutty, full-flavoured rapeseed oil.

0:28:23 > 0:28:26To find out what the landscape has to offer next time,

0:28:26 > 0:28:30join me as I continue my food map of Britain.

0:28:40 > 0:28:42Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd