Episode 2

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0:00:02 > 0:00:05Britain is world-famous for its stately homes.

0:00:05 > 0:00:07And, when it comes to food,

0:00:07 > 0:00:11our country houses were the taste-makers.

0:00:11 > 0:00:15Curry and cockles, it's an absolute first for me.

0:00:15 > 0:00:18In this series, we'll sample delicious dishes...

0:00:18 > 0:00:21They look wonderful, Mary.

0:00:21 > 0:00:23..and enjoy the lavish hospitality

0:00:23 > 0:00:26that these homes were celebrated for.

0:00:26 > 0:00:28You look absolutely stunning.

0:00:28 > 0:00:31I'll show you how to cook tasty,

0:00:31 > 0:00:35modern recipes inspired by the history of our great houses.

0:00:35 > 0:00:38This is actually Napoleon's chair from Waterloo.

0:00:38 > 0:00:40Mind you, I could do with a cushion!

0:00:40 > 0:00:45Join me as I meet the families who own these exceptional homes.

0:00:45 > 0:00:47The best thing about the staircase, obviously,

0:00:47 > 0:00:49is going down on a tray, or on your bottom.

0:00:49 > 0:00:52And find out what it's really like to live...

0:00:52 > 0:00:54That looks quite saucy.

0:00:54 > 0:00:55..work...

0:00:55 > 0:00:58- It's very like cutting a hedge. - I think you're better at baking!

0:00:58 > 0:01:03..and party in the nation's most beautiful stately homes.

0:01:03 > 0:01:05I'm not going to drop it.

0:01:05 > 0:01:10This week, I'm visiting Scone Palace, Scotland's crowning glory...

0:01:10 > 0:01:13They were crowned on this very stone.

0:01:13 > 0:01:17..where I get to feast and party like a royal.

0:01:17 > 0:01:22This is your invitation to dine at some of Britain's grandest tables

0:01:22 > 0:01:25in some of the most beautiful houses in the land.

0:01:39 > 0:01:41I'm in Scotland,

0:01:41 > 0:01:45just outside Perth, and approaching Scone Palace,

0:01:45 > 0:01:48world-famous as the crowning place of Scottish kings.

0:01:51 > 0:01:52For over 400 years,

0:01:52 > 0:01:56this extraordinary site has been home to the Murray family,

0:01:56 > 0:01:58now the Earls of Mansfield.

0:02:00 > 0:02:03Gosh, this is a pretty impressive approach.

0:02:04 > 0:02:06A crest above, how grand is that?

0:02:15 > 0:02:16This is amazing.

0:02:16 > 0:02:17It is enormous.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24It's my great pleasure to join the family for a few days

0:02:24 > 0:02:28in the build-up to one of their renowned dinner parties,

0:02:28 > 0:02:31culminating in some traditional Scottish reeling.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41- Hello, Mary.- There we are.- Fantastic to meet you. Welcome to Scone.

0:02:41 > 0:02:45Just a minute, you look far too young to be the Earl of Mansfield.

0:02:45 > 0:02:48I am not the Earl of Mansfield. I am the Earl's son, Viscount Stormont.

0:02:48 > 0:02:51- Please call me William. - Oh, hello, William. That's lovely.

0:02:51 > 0:02:52Come on inside.

0:02:52 > 0:02:55- I brought the sunshine for you. - Yes, you have!

0:02:55 > 0:02:57Being part Scottish,

0:02:57 > 0:03:01I do know Scone Palace stands on one of the most significant sites

0:03:01 > 0:03:03of Scotland's history.

0:03:03 > 0:03:09Once an abbey, Scone has seen the coronations of all Scotland's kings.

0:03:10 > 0:03:11Welcome to our home.

0:03:11 > 0:03:14Now, I want to show you something special in here.

0:03:14 > 0:03:16This goes on forever.

0:03:16 > 0:03:18This is the Long Gallery,

0:03:18 > 0:03:21and this is where the kings processed to their coronation.

0:03:21 > 0:03:25- So a very sacred and hallowed ground.- This is amazing.

0:03:25 > 0:03:27How many kings were crowned here?

0:03:27 > 0:03:3042, supposedly, but I believe there may have been many more than that.

0:03:30 > 0:03:33So a very, very special palace.

0:03:33 > 0:03:34Steeped in history.

0:03:34 > 0:03:37Today, this is the home of William's parents,

0:03:37 > 0:03:40the ninth Earl and Countess of Mansfield.

0:03:40 > 0:03:44William and his three sisters grew up amongst these grand surroundings,

0:03:44 > 0:03:46and, with such a royal history,

0:03:46 > 0:03:51I'm keen to discover how the family first came to live here.

0:03:51 > 0:03:54Now, there's one thing in here that I particularly want to show you.

0:03:54 > 0:03:58This is a little picture of a man called David Murray.

0:03:58 > 0:04:01He's the first man in our family to come to Scone,

0:04:01 > 0:04:04and he became the first Lord of Scone in 1608

0:04:04 > 0:04:07and was given the land by King James I,

0:04:07 > 0:04:11having foiled a plot to kidnap and murder the King.

0:04:11 > 0:04:13He was given the position of the King's cup bearer.

0:04:13 > 0:04:16Cup bearer? What does cup bearer mean?

0:04:16 > 0:04:18There was a ceremonial part to it,

0:04:18 > 0:04:20but also they had to guard against the King being poisoned.

0:04:20 > 0:04:22This was a very dangerous time in Scotland.

0:04:22 > 0:04:26And a brave chap, because if he took a mouthful,

0:04:26 > 0:04:29he'd die himself before the King, wouldn't he?

0:04:29 > 0:04:32Well, he was rewarded well for his service.

0:04:35 > 0:04:40Having proved themselves loyal servants to the Crown, in 1776,

0:04:40 > 0:04:44the Murrays were promoted to the title of the Earls of Mansfield.

0:04:44 > 0:04:47Their footing with royalty was assured

0:04:47 > 0:04:52and it paved the way for even further royal connections abroad.

0:04:52 > 0:04:54So the second Earl of Mansfield,

0:04:54 > 0:04:57he was the ambassador to Louis XVI in France

0:04:57 > 0:05:00just before the French Revolution broke down.

0:05:00 > 0:05:01This is our library.

0:05:01 > 0:05:05Now, just a minute... Where are the books?

0:05:05 > 0:05:08The books were removed, as we have our collection of porcelain in here.

0:05:08 > 0:05:10It's not our most precious thing.

0:05:10 > 0:05:13Our most precious thing is actually this table here,

0:05:13 > 0:05:17which was given to us by Louis XVI's wife, Marie Antoinette,

0:05:17 > 0:05:20who was a very close friend of the second Earl.

0:05:20 > 0:05:23You do know people in the right places.

0:05:23 > 0:05:26It went so far as the second Earl actually taught Marie Antoinette

0:05:26 > 0:05:28how to Scottish reel, how to dance.

0:05:28 > 0:05:32Talking of reels, I haven't done one since I was very young,

0:05:32 > 0:05:36but it was the Gay Gordons and Strip The Willow, because I am half Scots.

0:05:36 > 0:05:37My mum was Scots.

0:05:37 > 0:05:40- Brilliant.- I'm very proud of that side.

0:05:40 > 0:05:42I hope you brought your dancing shoes, we'd love you to join us.

0:05:42 > 0:05:44I'm a bit heavy footed, but I'll have a go.

0:05:44 > 0:05:47Don't worry, Mary, I'll look after you on the dance floor.

0:05:47 > 0:05:49- OK.- And it will be great for you to see the palace

0:05:49 > 0:05:51really alive in its full glory, lots of guests.

0:05:51 > 0:05:52Sorry to interrupt.

0:05:52 > 0:05:55Coffee is now served down in the private sitting room.

0:05:55 > 0:05:57Lady Mansfield is down there waiting on you both.

0:05:57 > 0:06:00- Thank you very much, Jean. - Thank you.- Jean is our housekeeper.

0:06:00 > 0:06:02Really, we call her our butler-ess.

0:06:02 > 0:06:04It's a very grand title to have.

0:06:04 > 0:06:06- Yes, it is.- How long have you had that title?

0:06:06 > 0:06:08Oh, since the 19-early-80s.

0:06:08 > 0:06:10And what does that entail?

0:06:10 > 0:06:13Everything. Cleaning, serving the public...

0:06:13 > 0:06:15What Jean is trying to say is that she's in charge.

0:06:15 > 0:06:20The house... The palace wouldn't function without Jean.

0:06:20 > 0:06:23Thank you very much, Jean. We'll be down soon.

0:06:23 > 0:06:26I'm heading from the public side of the palace

0:06:26 > 0:06:28to the Mansfield private quarters,

0:06:28 > 0:06:31for coffee with William's mother, the Countess.

0:06:31 > 0:06:35Hello, Mary. Great pleasure to welcome you here to Scone today.

0:06:35 > 0:06:40Having heard of the family's close ties with royalty in the past,

0:06:40 > 0:06:43I wonder if these connections are still as strong today.

0:06:44 > 0:06:48Has the royal entertaining continued as the years have gone by?

0:06:48 > 0:06:52Yes, it has. And the latest one, which was really good fun,

0:06:52 > 0:06:55was in 2012 when the Queen had her jubilee.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother, she came quite a lot,

0:06:57 > 0:06:59because it was so near her own home.

0:06:59 > 0:07:01And she sort of loved Scotland.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04I always wondered, when you have something like royalty to stay,

0:07:04 > 0:07:08do they come with a huge entourage that you have to put up as well?

0:07:08 > 0:07:10Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't.

0:07:10 > 0:07:13But with the Queen, it was quite large and quite a big thing.

0:07:13 > 0:07:17- They don't come with their own cooks, do they?- No, they don't.

0:07:17 > 0:07:20We have great fun choosing the menus and getting everything organised,

0:07:20 > 0:07:24and the royal household are very helpful in just tipping you off.

0:07:24 > 0:07:27Her Majesty the Queen Mother loved any bird,

0:07:27 > 0:07:29but she didn't like salmon so much,

0:07:29 > 0:07:33and this is the menu when the Queen Mother came

0:07:33 > 0:07:36on September 29th, 1978.

0:07:36 > 0:07:39We can see she had Oeufs Benedict.

0:07:39 > 0:07:42Canard a l'orange.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45Duck, which we know she liked, and then tarte aux pommes.

0:07:45 > 0:07:47And this is also a visitor's book.

0:07:47 > 0:07:49- Yes.- I've always wondered,

0:07:49 > 0:07:51if royalty come, or somebody very grand,

0:07:51 > 0:07:53do they put messages inside?

0:07:53 > 0:07:56No, they just sign their name, and date it.

0:07:56 > 0:07:59They just do it on one whole page of their own, and that's that.

0:08:01 > 0:08:02I'm in awe.

0:08:03 > 0:08:06When we have very special visitors,

0:08:06 > 0:08:09my parents-in-law started always asking them to plant trees,

0:08:09 > 0:08:14and if I take you to the window, we have a couple straight outside here.

0:08:14 > 0:08:19The most exciting and the oldest one is the one straight ahead of you.

0:08:19 > 0:08:23It's an oak, and that was planted by James VI and James I of Scotland.

0:08:23 > 0:08:27And that's quite some tree of quite some age.

0:08:27 > 0:08:28And to the right,

0:08:28 > 0:08:32we have a Swedish whitebeam planted by the King of Sweden.

0:08:32 > 0:08:38And then to the left, we have an acer planted by the Queen in 1967.

0:08:38 > 0:08:41And the river is the River Tay?

0:08:41 > 0:08:43Yes. The silvery Tay.

0:08:43 > 0:08:46One of the most famous salmon rivers in the world.

0:08:46 > 0:08:48We might have to take you down there for a spot of fishing.

0:08:48 > 0:08:50- Might be a bit of fun. - I would love that.

0:08:51 > 0:08:53If we're going on a fishing trip,

0:08:53 > 0:08:56I'd better prepare something warming.

0:08:56 > 0:08:59So I've availed myself of the butler-ess

0:08:59 > 0:09:01to lead the way downstairs.

0:09:01 > 0:09:05Jean, you've spent most of your working life here at Scone.

0:09:05 > 0:09:09Yes. I've been here nigh on 40 years, and I've had a lovely time,

0:09:09 > 0:09:12and got on really, really well with the late Earl.

0:09:14 > 0:09:16You must have seen William growing up here.

0:09:16 > 0:09:18Oh, yes.

0:09:18 > 0:09:21He has turned out a very nice young man.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23Very much like his late grandfather.

0:09:29 > 0:09:30Goodness gracious!

0:09:30 > 0:09:32- Now...- That's a range and a half, isn't it?

0:09:32 > 0:09:36Yes. It's not in use any more, but it was,

0:09:36 > 0:09:40and the staff at that time had to get up at maybe five o'clock

0:09:40 > 0:09:42- in the morning...- I would think so.

0:09:42 > 0:09:45..to get it all warm for the cook coming in.

0:09:45 > 0:09:46That was in Victorian times?

0:09:46 > 0:09:50- Yes.- And how many kitchen staff would be here in the heyday?

0:09:50 > 0:09:53Well, at that time, there was 40 staff.

0:09:53 > 0:09:5828 worked in the house itself, and then we had 12 for the horses.

0:09:58 > 0:10:01But when you came, how many were here?

0:10:01 > 0:10:03- Five.- Only five.

0:10:03 > 0:10:05You must have been run off your feet.

0:10:05 > 0:10:07Yes. At times, we were.

0:10:07 > 0:10:08They call you the boss sometimes.

0:10:08 > 0:10:09Yes, William does.

0:10:09 > 0:10:14- Does he?- Yes. But now I think it's time for you to take over

0:10:14 > 0:10:17- and do your little bit. - Well, I had better get going.- Yes!

0:10:17 > 0:10:20Let loose on this historic kitchen,

0:10:20 > 0:10:23I'm inspired to make a Scots classic.

0:10:23 > 0:10:27What better for a fishing trip than a warming broth?

0:10:30 > 0:10:33So, I've got a very nice chicken here

0:10:33 > 0:10:36and I'm going to first of all cook the chicken,

0:10:36 > 0:10:39then I'm going to cook the vegetables in the stock

0:10:39 > 0:10:40that I make from the chicken.

0:10:40 > 0:10:44In the olden days, they used to put the whole lot in the pot,

0:10:44 > 0:10:48and have the vegetables overcooked, but I like mine just done.

0:10:48 > 0:10:53So, to start, lift the whole bird into a large pan

0:10:53 > 0:10:56with a few bay leaves, season well, and add water.

0:10:56 > 0:10:59You really want to cover the chicken.

0:11:00 > 0:11:03Because it makes a lot of soup.

0:11:04 > 0:11:07Bring to the boil, then simmer the chicken for an hour and a quarter.

0:11:07 > 0:11:11Then leave aside to cool while you get on with the veg.

0:11:13 > 0:11:17I've got four leeks here that I've finely shredded.

0:11:17 > 0:11:18In they go.

0:11:18 > 0:11:21Now, that looks a lot of leeks,

0:11:21 > 0:11:24but they will lose their bulk as they're cooked.

0:11:24 > 0:11:29Then add a couple of carrots for colour and a few sticks of celery.

0:11:30 > 0:11:32Now for the unusual ingredient.

0:11:32 > 0:11:34Prunes.

0:11:34 > 0:11:36They're a classic for cock-a-leekie

0:11:36 > 0:11:39and north of the border they always add prunes.

0:11:41 > 0:11:44Everything's in the pot now and I'm going to simmer that

0:11:44 > 0:11:46until they're tender.

0:11:46 > 0:11:49That'll be sort of 20 minutes, but keep your eye on it.

0:11:49 > 0:11:52That gives me time to get on with the chicken.

0:11:54 > 0:11:56So I've taken all the meat off,

0:11:56 > 0:12:00and then you have the two oysters either side.

0:12:00 > 0:12:02I reckon that's the cook's perk.

0:12:02 > 0:12:04A bit of salt.

0:12:05 > 0:12:07That's pretty good.

0:12:07 > 0:12:10It's going to make a very good cock-a-leekie soup.

0:12:10 > 0:12:13Let's have a look at that.

0:12:17 > 0:12:20There's still a little bite in the carrot.

0:12:20 > 0:12:24That's how I like it. So, in goes all the chicken.

0:12:24 > 0:12:29It needs to be piping hot, and don't forget to check the seasoning.

0:12:32 > 0:12:33That's a bit of all right.

0:12:33 > 0:12:35I was a bit nervous of doing that,

0:12:35 > 0:12:38cos they have very high standards in the Mansfield household.

0:12:38 > 0:12:40But I think it'll do nicely.

0:12:43 > 0:12:46It's a thrill to be heading out with William and the family dog, Pickles,

0:12:46 > 0:12:48to the Tay.

0:12:48 > 0:12:50It's Scotland's longest river

0:12:50 > 0:12:55and world-famous for the pursuit of the elusive king of fish,

0:12:55 > 0:12:58the magnificent wild Atlantic salmon.

0:12:58 > 0:13:02So how many have you actually landed in your life?

0:13:02 > 0:13:04Not as many as I would like,

0:13:04 > 0:13:05I mean, it's quite tough!

0:13:07 > 0:13:10- Welcome, Mary.- Good morning.

0:13:10 > 0:13:13- Can I introduce you to my husband, Lord Mansfield? - Hello, how do you do?

0:13:13 > 0:13:16- And this is Iain, our ghillie. - Good morning.- Mary Berry.

0:13:16 > 0:13:18Good morning, Mary, pleased to meet you.

0:13:18 > 0:13:22As ghillie, Iain Kirk runs all the fishing trips

0:13:22 > 0:13:24on the estate's seven-mile stretch of the Tay,

0:13:24 > 0:13:28where the family have enjoyed fishing rights since 1608.

0:13:28 > 0:13:30Mary's going fishing!

0:13:30 > 0:13:34But today, he's got me, a complete novice.

0:13:34 > 0:13:36- OK?- Yes.- Wonderful.

0:13:36 > 0:13:39- Then onto the seat. You're good at this, eh?- I'm... Yes!

0:13:39 > 0:13:41Right, and down we come.

0:13:41 > 0:13:44- Right.- Wonderful.- Now, you really do look the part of a fisher woman,

0:13:44 > 0:13:46but you don't have to worry,

0:13:46 > 0:13:48you won't accidentally catch sharks or anything,

0:13:48 > 0:13:51- cos there aren't any here. - We'll see, we'll see!

0:13:51 > 0:13:53- Are we ready?- I'm ready, yes.

0:13:53 > 0:13:55- Let's go and do it, then, eh?- Woo!

0:13:55 > 0:13:56Bye-bye.

0:13:59 > 0:14:01She's very brave.

0:14:01 > 0:14:02She's fantastic.

0:14:02 > 0:14:05When you consider that she's decidedly over 21.

0:14:05 > 0:14:07It's absolutely fantastic.

0:14:07 > 0:14:10To jump into a boat like that and go tearing off upstream

0:14:10 > 0:14:11is really quite something.

0:14:16 > 0:14:20Scotland is one of the few places where Atlantic salmon

0:14:20 > 0:14:22are still thriving, and that's why people come.

0:14:22 > 0:14:26I get people here from America, Japan, Mexico, Australia.

0:14:26 > 0:14:27Because it's the best.

0:14:27 > 0:14:30Because it's the best. It's like St Andrews for golf.

0:14:30 > 0:14:33The River Tay is for salmon fishing.

0:14:33 > 0:14:37Amazingly, the salmon in this river travel back from their Atlantic

0:14:37 > 0:14:41feeding grounds to breed in the very waters that they were born.

0:14:41 > 0:14:44They can leap an incredible 12 feet

0:14:44 > 0:14:48to overcome obstacles on their journey upstream.

0:14:48 > 0:14:51Being this clever, I don't hold much hope of catching one.

0:14:51 > 0:14:54Now, I'm going to pay the line out for you.

0:14:54 > 0:14:57Do you want me to share the cast with you to begin with?

0:14:57 > 0:14:59Yes, come on, let's do it together.

0:14:59 > 0:15:01Right, up, around...

0:15:02 > 0:15:04Back, two, three, tap.

0:15:04 > 0:15:05There you are, well done!

0:15:05 > 0:15:09- Come along, friend. - Right. So, rod tip comes down.

0:15:10 > 0:15:13This is a good spot because there's stones out here,

0:15:13 > 0:15:15the fish like to sit in here.

0:15:15 > 0:15:18If I am lucky enough to catch a salmon,

0:15:18 > 0:15:21there's a good chance we'll have to throw it back.

0:15:21 > 0:15:22Here on the Tay,

0:15:22 > 0:15:25there are strict rules for catch and release

0:15:25 > 0:15:29that ensure salmon fishing will be enjoyed for generations to come.

0:15:29 > 0:15:32Ah, wonderful. That was a good cast.

0:15:32 > 0:15:34I'm much happier when you're near me.

0:15:37 > 0:15:40So, Iain, which of the fish can you take out of the river,

0:15:40 > 0:15:42and which are the ones that you've got to leave in?

0:15:42 > 0:15:46We at Scone Palace return over 90% of the fish.

0:15:46 > 0:15:48Because you're interested in conservation?

0:15:48 > 0:15:50Conservation is the key.

0:15:50 > 0:15:52Iain tells me that in the 19th century,

0:15:52 > 0:15:54the fourth Earl of Mansfield,

0:15:54 > 0:15:56another William Murray,

0:15:56 > 0:16:01could see that overfishing was endangering the salmon population.

0:16:01 > 0:16:06Back in 1852, it was all netting, netting, netting, killing, killing.

0:16:06 > 0:16:09The Earl of Mansfield decided, no, we can't do this any more,

0:16:09 > 0:16:13so he said, "Right, from now on, any salmon that you net,

0:16:13 > 0:16:16"we're going to strip the eggs from the females

0:16:16 > 0:16:18"and the milt from the males,

0:16:18 > 0:16:21"we're going to mix them up and we're going to plant those

0:16:21 > 0:16:23"fertilised eggs in the fish ponds."

0:16:23 > 0:16:27The fourth Earl built two fish ponds which were used as a hatchery

0:16:27 > 0:16:31to rear salmon from eggs to restock the river.

0:16:31 > 0:16:34This ingenious conservation programme

0:16:34 > 0:16:39saw as many as 300,000 salmon nursed into life every two years.

0:16:39 > 0:16:41Was this something that nobody else was doing?

0:16:41 > 0:16:44- Nobody else was doing. - He was the first?- He was the first.

0:16:44 > 0:16:47- He was way ahead of his time. - Oh, way ahead!

0:16:47 > 0:16:50Quite remarkable, and the family like to think

0:16:50 > 0:16:53that the fourth Earl's actions 150 years ago

0:16:53 > 0:16:58helped secure the Tay as one of the best spots for salmon fishing

0:16:58 > 0:16:59in the world.

0:16:59 > 0:17:01Right, Mary, it's up to you now.

0:17:01 > 0:17:03A big friendship could go on this.

0:17:03 > 0:17:05- Oh, it could, couldn't it?- Yes.

0:17:05 > 0:17:08- Right.- Up, around...

0:17:08 > 0:17:09That's it.

0:17:09 > 0:17:11Back, just...

0:17:11 > 0:17:14Nearly, nearly, nearly. That was the wind that caused that.

0:17:16 > 0:17:18Do you know, Iain, I don't think our luck's in,

0:17:18 > 0:17:21and I think the fish are all smiling down there,

0:17:21 > 0:17:24thinking, "You didn't get me today!"

0:17:29 > 0:17:31- Hello, Mishka!- On you go.

0:17:40 > 0:17:42I may be empty-handed,

0:17:42 > 0:17:45but there's always a warming consolation of my cock-a-leekie soup

0:17:45 > 0:17:47and good company.

0:17:47 > 0:17:52Gosh, that looks steaming. It's a long time since breakfast.

0:17:52 > 0:17:53- Marvellous.- There you are.

0:17:53 > 0:17:54Thank you.

0:17:54 > 0:17:57So what was the biggest salmon that's ever been caught

0:17:57 > 0:17:59on the Tay out there?

0:17:59 > 0:18:03Oh, in the 1920s there was one that was 64lbs,

0:18:03 > 0:18:06and it was caught by Miss Ballantine,

0:18:06 > 0:18:09who was a...slip of a girl.

0:18:09 > 0:18:11Was it shown to everybody?

0:18:11 > 0:18:15Oh, golly, yes. It was put on show in the Perth high street.

0:18:15 > 0:18:19- At Malloch's. - Yes, the Monster of the Tay.

0:18:19 > 0:18:22If you were wading and that swam past you,

0:18:22 > 0:18:24you would come out the water, I'm certain!

0:18:24 > 0:18:28I must say, this is very good soup indeed.

0:18:28 > 0:18:30My instinct is to rush off and look for some more,

0:18:30 > 0:18:33but I think probably we've eaten the lot.

0:18:33 > 0:18:36No, no, there's more in the pot, I'm sure.

0:18:36 > 0:18:38It brings out the inner pig in me!

0:18:40 > 0:18:42With the Tay on their doorstep,

0:18:42 > 0:18:47the king of fish has featured on royal menus at Scone for centuries.

0:18:47 > 0:18:50Lady Mansfield, herself a trained cook,

0:18:50 > 0:18:53is going to show me how she likes to prepare it.

0:18:53 > 0:18:57And I'm privileged to be invited into her family kitchen.

0:19:00 > 0:19:03I'm really pleased we're back warming my bottom here.

0:19:03 > 0:19:07- We are so lucky because Iain has managed to find us a salmon.- Lovely!

0:19:07 > 0:19:11Virtually all the Atlantic salmon you can buy is farmed,

0:19:11 > 0:19:17but the wild fish have a firmer texture and makes a rare treat.

0:19:17 > 0:19:20What I like to do is to cook it completely naturally,

0:19:20 > 0:19:24just baking it in the oven and with a delicious hollandaise sauce.

0:19:24 > 0:19:26Not mucking it about.

0:19:26 > 0:19:29Just simple and have the real flavours.

0:19:29 > 0:19:30To keep the salmon succulent,

0:19:30 > 0:19:34Lady Mansfield is going to wrap it in a large sheet of buttered foil,

0:19:34 > 0:19:39and to bring out the delicate flavour, she's simply using lemon,

0:19:39 > 0:19:42fresh dill, and a sprinkle of seasoning.

0:19:42 > 0:19:44Can I make a cheeky suggestion?

0:19:44 > 0:19:47- Yes!- I find that the way you automatically do it

0:19:47 > 0:19:50is wrap it up and do a great big roll of the foil on top,

0:19:50 > 0:19:52which stops the top of it getting cooked.

0:19:52 > 0:19:57But a slightly better way is to pull this over the top like that...

0:19:58 > 0:20:03..and then imagining it's a huge Cornish pasty,

0:20:03 > 0:20:05you just turn that round.

0:20:05 > 0:20:07But you must tuck it in,

0:20:07 > 0:20:10because I don't want all the juices going over your oven,

0:20:10 > 0:20:13which I've already noticed was exceedingly clean.

0:20:13 > 0:20:16So we've got our wonderful Cornish pasty,

0:20:16 > 0:20:19- and none of the juice should come out.- That is such a good tip!

0:20:19 > 0:20:23While that goes into a hot oven for 20 minutes,

0:20:23 > 0:20:27we're joined by Lady Mansfield's daughter, Iona.

0:20:27 > 0:20:28- Very nice to see you.- You too.

0:20:28 > 0:20:31- What's that you've got there? - This is wild garlic.

0:20:31 > 0:20:34Wow, that's memories of walking through woods,

0:20:34 > 0:20:36and it just knocks you back.

0:20:36 > 0:20:38- What are you going to do with it? - My mother's favourite sauce

0:20:38 > 0:20:41is a hollandaise, but mine is a wild garlic pesto.

0:20:41 > 0:20:43Have I got to say which is the best?

0:20:43 > 0:20:46I think I'll be very tactful, I know which side my bread's buttered.

0:20:46 > 0:20:49Lady Mansfield's traditional hollandaise

0:20:49 > 0:20:52starts with a white wine vinegar reduction,

0:20:52 > 0:20:55flavoured with parsley stalks, bay leaves,

0:20:55 > 0:20:59a few peppercorns, and a large blade of mace.

0:20:59 > 0:21:03The cooled reduction is added to four egg yolks

0:21:03 > 0:21:06and then heated gently over a pan of hot water,

0:21:06 > 0:21:08while adding the softened butter.

0:21:10 > 0:21:15To make her pesto, Iona just blitzes the wild garlic with pine nuts,

0:21:15 > 0:21:19lemon juice and a good glug of olive oil.

0:21:21 > 0:21:25Then, Mary, if you could possibly start grating some Parmesan.

0:21:25 > 0:21:27I thought you'd find something for me to do!

0:21:29 > 0:21:31She finishes it off by stirring in the Parmesan,

0:21:31 > 0:21:35and adding a little more olive oil to get it to the right consistency.

0:21:35 > 0:21:39That's just perfect to put straight onto the salmon when it's ready.

0:21:39 > 0:21:43Well, it's got another friend over there that's going with the salmon.

0:21:43 > 0:21:45- How's that going? - I think we're nearly there.

0:21:47 > 0:21:49Here we are, we're going to get it out.

0:21:53 > 0:21:55Just look at that!

0:21:57 > 0:21:59That looks beautiful, doesn't it?

0:21:59 > 0:22:02And the skin comes off so easily when it's straight out of the oven.

0:22:06 > 0:22:10It is such an enormous treat to have wild salmon,

0:22:10 > 0:22:13and this is straight out of the Tay, it couldn't be better.

0:22:13 > 0:22:16No, it's a real, real, real treat.

0:22:17 > 0:22:19That hollandaise is rich,

0:22:19 > 0:22:23and it's just a classic to go with the salmon.

0:22:23 > 0:22:25Now, new for me is your pesto.

0:22:28 > 0:22:33Mmm! It's far more interesting than just putting crushed garlic in it.

0:22:33 > 0:22:36The colour is amazing, and it's a good flavour.

0:22:36 > 0:22:38But this is so delicate,

0:22:38 > 0:22:42I think the hollandaise goes a little more with it.

0:22:42 > 0:22:44So I think Mary's got your vote, mummy.

0:22:45 > 0:22:48I didn't say I didn't like it, I love it!

0:22:50 > 0:22:55The Scone Estate has always provided its royal visitors

0:22:55 > 0:22:57with some of the finest fare in Scotland.

0:22:59 > 0:23:04To discover why this place became such a draw for royalty,

0:23:04 > 0:23:08William's going to show me the very spot where 42 Scottish kings

0:23:08 > 0:23:09were crowned.

0:23:09 > 0:23:11Now, Mary, this is the Moot Hill,

0:23:11 > 0:23:14and this is the reason why people come to Scone,

0:23:14 > 0:23:17to see this, and to stand on top of it.

0:23:17 > 0:23:20This looks more like a mound to me than a hill.

0:23:20 > 0:23:22Well, it's a very important mound.

0:23:22 > 0:23:25Legend has it that this hill was not just called the Moot Hill,

0:23:25 > 0:23:27but it was also the Boot Hill.

0:23:27 > 0:23:31That's because when the kings and all their magnates came here,

0:23:31 > 0:23:34they all brought in their boots the soil of their own land.

0:23:34 > 0:23:36So when they arrived here,

0:23:36 > 0:23:40they then poured that soil out to create what is now the Moot Hill,

0:23:40 > 0:23:43and the king would be crowned on that hill.

0:23:43 > 0:23:45So there's a huge significance around that,

0:23:45 > 0:23:47and this is a real relic of the past,

0:23:47 > 0:23:50a real sort of important place for the Scottish nation.

0:23:51 > 0:23:56And it's what stands on top of Moot Hill that, for nearly 1,200 years,

0:23:56 > 0:24:01has been at the heart of Scottish, and later British, coronations.

0:24:01 > 0:24:02So as we walked up this hill,

0:24:02 > 0:24:06we were leaving the secular world and coming into a very sacred place,

0:24:06 > 0:24:09which housed the Stone of Scone,

0:24:09 > 0:24:11commonly known as the Stone of Destiny.

0:24:11 > 0:24:14This stone was brought here in 840

0:24:14 > 0:24:17by the first king of Scotland, Kenneth McAlpine.

0:24:17 > 0:24:20Some people say it is a Roman altar,

0:24:20 > 0:24:23some people say it came from the Holy Land,

0:24:23 > 0:24:24but what we do know, Mary,

0:24:24 > 0:24:27is that the stone has been used for important coronations,

0:24:27 > 0:24:32coronations of James I, Charles II, Robert the Bruce, Macbeth.

0:24:32 > 0:24:35When you say Macbeth, is that Shakespeare's Macbeth?

0:24:35 > 0:24:36Not specifically Shakespeare's Macbeth.

0:24:36 > 0:24:39Shakespeare created a sort of, like, wicked and evil king.

0:24:39 > 0:24:42Historians now think Macbeth was actually a very good Scottish king.

0:24:42 > 0:24:45And they were crowned on this very stone?

0:24:45 > 0:24:48Well, not this exact stone,

0:24:48 > 0:24:51but one that looks very similar to this that's no longer here,

0:24:51 > 0:24:57because the original stone taken from here in 1297 by...

0:24:57 > 0:25:00what I call the bad guy in Braveheart,

0:25:00 > 0:25:02Edward I, the Hammer of the Scots.

0:25:02 > 0:25:06He took it to Westminster, where all coronations since have used it.

0:25:06 > 0:25:10The Stone of Destiny is wrapped in myth and legend

0:25:10 > 0:25:13and is a revered symbol of the Scottish nation.

0:25:13 > 0:25:18I remember the news on Christmas Day in 1950,

0:25:18 > 0:25:22four Scottish students stole back the stone from Westminster Abbey.

0:25:22 > 0:25:23It caused a lot of problems.

0:25:23 > 0:25:26In fact, they shut the border between England and Scotland

0:25:26 > 0:25:28for the first time in 400 years.

0:25:28 > 0:25:30After, I think, a very long chase,

0:25:30 > 0:25:33the stone was returned to Westminster Abbey,

0:25:33 > 0:25:35before ending up in Edinburgh now.

0:25:35 > 0:25:37So when the next monarch is crowned?

0:25:37 > 0:25:40It will be on the Stone of Scone, in Westminster.

0:25:40 > 0:25:44- OK.- With all the magnates around them and the bishops,

0:25:44 > 0:25:46and, of course, then there'll be the grand ceremony,

0:25:46 > 0:25:49and they will plant a crown on their fair head.

0:25:49 > 0:25:53In this case, it would be, "Arise, Queen Mary of Cakes."

0:25:53 > 0:25:57Well, when it really happens I shall be watching,

0:25:57 > 0:26:00and I shall have a very special memory of coming here to Scone.

0:26:01 > 0:26:02But William tells me

0:26:02 > 0:26:05after the Crowns of Scotland and England were joined

0:26:05 > 0:26:07by the 1707 Act of Union,

0:26:07 > 0:26:11that the subsequent rebellions caused Scotland to fall from favour,

0:26:11 > 0:26:17and not a single Royal visited Scone for almost two centuries.

0:26:17 > 0:26:19Scotland was not a la mode.

0:26:19 > 0:26:22So what changed all that, then?

0:26:22 > 0:26:25That was actually partly to do with a very important visit

0:26:25 > 0:26:29here by Queen Victoria on her Jubilee tour in 1842.

0:26:29 > 0:26:32That must have been absolutely amazing.

0:26:32 > 0:26:34Did she come through that arch down there?

0:26:34 > 0:26:36She didn't come through that archway,

0:26:36 > 0:26:40because we built an entirely separate and new driveway there.

0:26:40 > 0:26:42It wasn't the only thing they did, either.

0:26:42 > 0:26:45They brought the butlers out of retirement,

0:26:45 > 0:26:48they had furniture specially made, so this was a gargantuan effort.

0:26:48 > 0:26:50- And the expense?- A huge amount.

0:26:50 > 0:26:52And how long did all that take?

0:26:52 > 0:26:53It took two years.

0:26:53 > 0:26:55But how long did she stay?

0:26:55 > 0:26:58- Just the one night.- And that's all?

0:26:58 > 0:27:01- That's all, one night. - All that effort and expense, just for one night?

0:27:01 > 0:27:04Incredible, but she was Queen of the greatest empire that's ever been,

0:27:04 > 0:27:05she was the number one monarch.

0:27:07 > 0:27:09William's grandfather, the eighth Earl,

0:27:09 > 0:27:12opened the palace to the public in 1966,

0:27:12 > 0:27:16and now 100,000 people come to Scone each year.

0:27:16 > 0:27:21The legacy of Victoria's visit is a huge part of the draw,

0:27:21 > 0:27:25and William has pointed me in the direction of the very room

0:27:25 > 0:27:28where Queen Victoria and Prince Albert dined,

0:27:28 > 0:27:30to find curator Graham McIntyre.

0:27:30 > 0:27:32You must be Graham?

0:27:32 > 0:27:36- Hello.- This is a very fine dining table here.

0:27:36 > 0:27:38This is Queen Victoria's table.

0:27:38 > 0:27:41It was made specifically for that night.

0:27:41 > 0:27:43And was that quite expensive?

0:27:43 > 0:27:46In today's money, £75,000.

0:27:46 > 0:27:49£75,000?!

0:27:49 > 0:27:51That's an enormous amount.

0:27:51 > 0:27:54I mean, the whole visit cost so much.

0:27:54 > 0:27:57It nearly bankrupt the Earl, it was said,

0:27:57 > 0:28:00but it was so important to him,

0:28:00 > 0:28:01and everything had to be right.

0:28:01 > 0:28:04And where would Queen Victoria sit?

0:28:04 > 0:28:06Victoria liked the heat,

0:28:06 > 0:28:11so Victoria and Albert actually sat with their backs to the fire.

0:28:12 > 0:28:14- What a good idea!- Yes.

0:28:14 > 0:28:19Amongst the illustrious guests were the Prime Minister, Sir Robert Peel,

0:28:19 > 0:28:22and the Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch.

0:28:22 > 0:28:26Graham also tells me how the table was a feast for the eyes,

0:28:26 > 0:28:28decorated with sugar sculptures

0:28:28 > 0:28:32by the famous Italian confectioner William Jarrin,

0:28:32 > 0:28:35and shortbread embossed with the Mansfield coat of arms

0:28:35 > 0:28:37in gold leaf.

0:28:37 > 0:28:41It's quite a special feeling to think I'm sitting on the same seat

0:28:41 > 0:28:42as Queen Victoria.

0:28:44 > 0:28:47Victoria was just 23 when she visited.

0:28:47 > 0:28:50She and Albert had been married for two years,

0:28:50 > 0:28:54and I'm told the bed the couple slept in is still here.

0:28:54 > 0:28:59I'm hoping palace archivist Sarah Adams can tell me more.

0:28:59 > 0:29:00- Hello.- Hello, you must be Sarah.

0:29:00 > 0:29:02I am, it's lovely to meet you.

0:29:02 > 0:29:05And this is Queen Victoria's bed?

0:29:05 > 0:29:07- It is, yes.- Am I going to be allowed to sit on it?

0:29:07 > 0:29:09I've been told we can.

0:29:09 > 0:29:13Gracious. It isn't every day we can get to sit on Queen Victoria's bed!

0:29:15 > 0:29:17I say, it's pretty hard, isn't it?

0:29:17 > 0:29:19I know, it's not the most comfortable.

0:29:19 > 0:29:22To reveal the true cost of Queen Victoria's stay,

0:29:22 > 0:29:26Sarah has a ledger of the household accounts.

0:29:26 > 0:29:30This section here's looking at the cost of the groceries,

0:29:30 > 0:29:33and it's done in three-month periods.

0:29:33 > 0:29:36So we can see that in the period before the visit,

0:29:36 > 0:29:42the total amount that was spent was £51, 15 shillings and 9p.

0:29:42 > 0:29:46This would roughly be just over £5,000.

0:29:46 > 0:29:48But, for the period that she was here,

0:29:48 > 0:29:56our total has gone up to £289, 17 shillings and 8.5p,

0:29:56 > 0:29:59and this was roughly £30,000.

0:29:59 > 0:30:03- They must have had the finest of ingredients.- Mmm!

0:30:03 > 0:30:05They were killing the fatted calf.

0:30:05 > 0:30:08Yes, and the two years leading up to the visit,

0:30:08 > 0:30:09there was a lot of work done.

0:30:09 > 0:30:11We've got invoices for upholstery,

0:30:11 > 0:30:14paper hanging, painting, masonry work,

0:30:14 > 0:30:17ironmongery, and when these were all added together,

0:30:17 > 0:30:21the final cost was £3,800 -

0:30:21 > 0:30:26a modern equivalent of over £377,000.

0:30:26 > 0:30:28It's amazing, really, isn't it?

0:30:28 > 0:30:30- Yes.- This was enormously expensive.

0:30:30 > 0:30:34How did the fourth Earl feel? It must have worried him.

0:30:34 > 0:30:36Well, we do know how he felt about the visit

0:30:36 > 0:30:41because he wrote to his mother about it, just about a month beforehand.

0:30:41 > 0:30:43"As you may easily imagine,

0:30:43 > 0:30:48"a Royal visit this year will be very inconvenient,

0:30:48 > 0:30:54"yet it would be perfectly inhospitable for me to decline."

0:30:54 > 0:30:57It didn't sound as though he was that keen.

0:30:57 > 0:31:00Do you think she appreciated coming here to Scone?

0:31:00 > 0:31:02That's an interesting question.

0:31:02 > 0:31:05We're told that Victoria went to bed at 11 o'clock,

0:31:05 > 0:31:08which is an hour later than she would usually go,

0:31:08 > 0:31:10so hopefully she was having a nice time.

0:31:10 > 0:31:13But what we do know for certain is that Victoria and Albert

0:31:13 > 0:31:16fell in love with Scotland on their visit,

0:31:16 > 0:31:21and it was also not long after this that Victoria bought

0:31:21 > 0:31:23the Balmoral Estate.

0:31:23 > 0:31:26So they were setting the trend to visit Scotland.

0:31:26 > 0:31:29It's a good job he spent all that money, wasn't it?

0:31:40 > 0:31:44One of the great draws to Scotland for Victoria and Albert

0:31:44 > 0:31:46was, of course, the landscape.

0:31:48 > 0:31:53The Scone Estate is spread over 27,000 acres

0:31:53 > 0:31:58and its prime position at the very beginning of the Highlands

0:31:58 > 0:32:01made it an important first port of call

0:32:01 > 0:32:03for visiting royalty and nobility.

0:32:04 > 0:32:08Much of the region became a vast outdoor playground

0:32:08 > 0:32:09for the upper classes,

0:32:09 > 0:32:13with deerstalking seen as the pinnacle of country sports.

0:32:17 > 0:32:18Here they come, it's about time!

0:32:20 > 0:32:24I would love to catch sight of these magnificent wild animals,

0:32:24 > 0:32:29and to help us are the estate's own gamekeepers, Roddy McIntosh,

0:32:29 > 0:32:30and his son, Stewart.

0:32:30 > 0:32:33Good morning! Roddy Mansfield, nice to see you again.

0:32:33 > 0:32:34- Nice to see you.- Here we go.

0:32:34 > 0:32:37Young Mary Berry, welcome to Logiealmond.

0:32:37 > 0:32:38My, you look smart!

0:32:38 > 0:32:42You're all in the same tweed. Is it a special family tweed?

0:32:42 > 0:32:43It is, yes.

0:32:43 > 0:32:45It's nice, it's warm.

0:32:45 > 0:32:47- It's really... - It's quite waterproof.

0:32:47 > 0:32:51Is it? I was just thinking, should you have a Mac on top of it?

0:32:51 > 0:32:54If it keeps the sheep dry, it's good for us as well.

0:32:54 > 0:32:56Well, you look the part, certainly.

0:32:56 > 0:33:00- So, if we're all feeling fit, it's on foot from now.- Right.

0:33:01 > 0:33:03It's not the hunting season,

0:33:03 > 0:33:06so we're just going to have a look for the herd

0:33:06 > 0:33:08and see how close we can get.

0:33:08 > 0:33:11More of a deer safari, really.

0:33:12 > 0:33:17Stalking, historically, has been the sport of kings.

0:33:17 > 0:33:21Yes, it goes way back to the 11th and 12th century,

0:33:21 > 0:33:23when it was the king's prerogative,

0:33:23 > 0:33:26and they developed various royal forests

0:33:26 > 0:33:32and anybody else caught poaching deer had severe, severe penalties.

0:33:32 > 0:33:37Well, coming right up to date, venison has become really popular.

0:33:37 > 0:33:42Of course, it's very good for us, it's lovely and lean, no fat.

0:33:42 > 0:33:45- And it's simply delicious, too. - Ooh, it is!

0:33:45 > 0:33:49It's a very good thing that we can now all enjoy venison,

0:33:49 > 0:33:53and it's because landowners like the Earl of Mansfield

0:33:53 > 0:33:57maintain these huge areas for deer and grouse

0:33:57 > 0:33:59that we can still have this wild landscape

0:33:59 > 0:34:02that has remained unchanged for centuries.

0:34:02 > 0:34:05Roddy, I think Stewart and I are going to hold back now, aren't we?

0:34:05 > 0:34:09- Yes, yes.- I think your best chance is to go off on your own.

0:34:09 > 0:34:11OK. Right.

0:34:12 > 0:34:15By keeping the group to a minimum and staying in line,

0:34:15 > 0:34:19there's less chance of the stalker being seen by the deer.

0:34:19 > 0:34:24Roddy makes sure that we're downwind of their very sensitive noses.

0:34:31 > 0:34:34I saw the head of a deer walking there, Mary,

0:34:34 > 0:34:37so I don't know where they've gone just now.

0:34:37 > 0:34:39We just need to keep creeping up here.

0:34:39 > 0:34:42- We'll carry on and we'll see what we can see.- OK, I'll keep close.

0:34:56 > 0:34:58Look, look, look at that!

0:34:58 > 0:35:01Wow, look at its little white tail.

0:35:06 > 0:35:07Isn't that beautiful?

0:35:11 > 0:35:13There are another two up here,

0:35:13 > 0:35:15we'll need to say low.

0:35:15 > 0:35:18We'll go up to the top of the ridge here

0:35:18 > 0:35:21- and hopefully get a better view. - OK, OK. I'll keep close.

0:35:29 > 0:35:32- WHISPERING:- Now, Mary, have a wee seat here.

0:35:35 > 0:35:37The deer have laid down in front of us.

0:35:37 > 0:35:38Are they?

0:35:38 > 0:35:42They're lying down like us, so we can't see them,

0:35:42 > 0:35:44so we'll need to wait here for a little while,

0:35:44 > 0:35:46to see if they'll stand up.

0:35:46 > 0:35:48And will you see their heads just come up first?

0:35:48 > 0:35:51Yeah, you'll see the ears and they will always find you

0:35:51 > 0:35:54before you see them most of the time.

0:35:54 > 0:36:00And you were a gamekeeper for William's grandfather?

0:36:00 > 0:36:02Yes, yeah, that's right.

0:36:02 > 0:36:04And how many years were you with him?

0:36:04 > 0:36:06I was 40 years with him, yeah.

0:36:06 > 0:36:1040 years. Did you ever travel to other estates with Lord Mansfield?

0:36:10 > 0:36:14Travelled all over Berkshire, Lincolnshire, Northumberland.

0:36:14 > 0:36:17Most of the times you were told where you were going.

0:36:17 > 0:36:19There was only once when we were going away

0:36:19 > 0:36:22and I said, "Where are we going, my Lord?" and he wouldn't tell me.

0:36:22 > 0:36:25So we started heading east, then we started going a bit north,

0:36:25 > 0:36:27and I was starting to twig a wee bit.

0:36:27 > 0:36:31I said, "This wouldn't involve some corgis by any chance, my Lord?"

0:36:31 > 0:36:33And he said, "Don't stand on them!"

0:36:35 > 0:36:37So we knew where we were going then.

0:36:37 > 0:36:39Now, tell me about it, who was there?

0:36:39 > 0:36:41The Duke of Edinburgh and the Queen.

0:36:41 > 0:36:43How did you get on, did they talk to you?

0:36:43 > 0:36:45Oh, yes. They were the same as Lord Mansfield,

0:36:45 > 0:36:47it's total relaxation for them.

0:36:47 > 0:36:51You're in the hills like this, peace and quiet, no-one worrying you.

0:36:51 > 0:36:54- What an honour. - It was an honour, yeah.

0:36:54 > 0:36:59Since the extinction of the wolf, deer have no natural predators here,

0:36:59 > 0:37:03and Scottish Natural Heritage recognise

0:37:03 > 0:37:06that, in order to sustain a healthy deer population,

0:37:06 > 0:37:08culling is necessary,

0:37:08 > 0:37:12but William explains that it has to be done right.

0:37:12 > 0:37:16You pick out the old, or the ones that are weak or ill,

0:37:16 > 0:37:19and that's an effort to conserve the greater whole,

0:37:19 > 0:37:22the greater body of animals, to keep them all stronger.

0:37:22 > 0:37:24Well, that's quite right.

0:37:30 > 0:37:34Well, Mary, you're looking a wee bit cold, would you like a wee dram?

0:37:34 > 0:37:38I'll never say no, especially when there's a bit of wind coming up.

0:37:38 > 0:37:40There we are. William?

0:37:40 > 0:37:42Yes, please! Thank you.

0:37:42 > 0:37:45- Don't spill any. - A Scotsman doesn't spill it!

0:37:45 > 0:37:46There we are.

0:37:49 > 0:37:52This will warm the cockles of our hearts.

0:37:52 > 0:37:53Yes.

0:37:53 > 0:37:56Here's to your very good health, anyway.

0:37:56 > 0:37:57Cheers.

0:37:59 > 0:38:04- If I blew and you lit a match, it would go up.- It would go up!

0:38:10 > 0:38:12As we head back from the hills,

0:38:12 > 0:38:17Lady Mansfield tells me venison will be the fuel for our dancing

0:38:17 > 0:38:18at the upcoming party.

0:38:18 > 0:38:21But first, I want her help,

0:38:21 > 0:38:25with my take on a dish that has long been a favourite on the menu

0:38:25 > 0:38:28for royal visitors at Scone Palace.

0:38:28 > 0:38:30Well, Mary, we are so lucky.

0:38:30 > 0:38:33Roddy and Stewart have managed to provide us with some fillet.

0:38:33 > 0:38:35It looks amazing. It's quite big.

0:38:35 > 0:38:37What kind of a deer is it from?

0:38:37 > 0:38:39This is red deer, the Monarch of the Glen.

0:38:39 > 0:38:43- That's the great, big, fine one that we see pictures of?- Yes.

0:38:45 > 0:38:48Start off by sealing the meat in a very hot pan.

0:38:48 > 0:38:50Pepper and salt on the top.

0:38:52 > 0:38:54Gosh, you can smell it already.

0:38:55 > 0:38:57Then I'm going to turn that over.

0:38:59 > 0:39:02- That's just what it should do, isn't it?- Perfect.

0:39:02 > 0:39:06When the venison is nicely browned, leave to one side to cool.

0:39:06 > 0:39:09Instead of the usual mushroom or pate topping,

0:39:09 > 0:39:14I'm going to use caramelised onions to crown this wellington.

0:39:14 > 0:39:19Gently cook the onions in the same pan and, once soft and golden,

0:39:19 > 0:39:21set aside half for the gravy.

0:39:23 > 0:39:26Then add chopped thyme, light muscovado sugar,

0:39:26 > 0:39:28and balsamic vinegar.

0:39:28 > 0:39:29That's it.

0:39:30 > 0:39:32Smell it. Have a smell.

0:39:34 > 0:39:35Mmm!

0:39:35 > 0:39:38You want both onions and meat completely cool

0:39:38 > 0:39:40before you wrap them in pastry,

0:39:40 > 0:39:44and I'm using puff pastry, rolled out nice and thinly.

0:39:46 > 0:39:49Now, normally you would put beaten egg when you're sealing it,

0:39:49 > 0:39:53but brushing mustard not only adds to the flavour,

0:39:53 > 0:39:55it means that it will stick.

0:39:55 > 0:39:58That's a really good tip, I didn't know that.

0:39:58 > 0:39:59It sticks like mad.

0:39:59 > 0:40:02This is where it all comes together.

0:40:02 > 0:40:06I've got a really neat way to wrap the venison in the pastry.

0:40:06 > 0:40:10Simply cut two rectangles from either side.

0:40:12 > 0:40:13There we are.

0:40:14 > 0:40:20I'm going to turn those in like that, and then roll it over gently,

0:40:20 > 0:40:22like that.

0:40:23 > 0:40:24Like that.

0:40:24 > 0:40:28And then the fold is underneath,

0:40:28 > 0:40:33and the top is where all the onions are.

0:40:33 > 0:40:35That looks fantastic.

0:40:35 > 0:40:37If you see a little bit of a gap there,

0:40:37 > 0:40:40there's nothing like a little pinch to get it together,

0:40:40 > 0:40:43because we don't want the juices coming out.

0:40:43 > 0:40:48Use the pastry you've cut off to make some decorations for the top

0:40:48 > 0:40:51and give it all a good brush with some egg wash.

0:40:51 > 0:40:55Pop it in the fridge to chill right down before cooking.

0:40:57 > 0:40:59While we're ladies-in-waiting,

0:40:59 > 0:41:02Lady Mansfield has an amazing culinary surprise

0:41:02 > 0:41:04from the palace archives.

0:41:04 > 0:41:06It's a letter from the Duke of Wellington

0:41:06 > 0:41:08to "my Dear Lady Mansfield",

0:41:08 > 0:41:14dated September 11th, 1833, with his signature at the bottom.

0:41:14 > 0:41:15So, isn't that fun?

0:41:15 > 0:41:18- Absolutely amazing! - The other most extraordinary thing

0:41:18 > 0:41:21is he's enclosed a recipe,

0:41:21 > 0:41:24and it's a recipe for how to make butter.

0:41:24 > 0:41:28"Put the cream into a strong linen cloth.

0:41:28 > 0:41:31"Dig a hole and let the bottom be large enough

0:41:31 > 0:41:36"to allow the cream to lie almost four inches deep all over it.

0:41:36 > 0:41:38"Cover up with the earth.

0:41:38 > 0:41:40"Let it remain 24 hours.

0:41:40 > 0:41:44"Take it out, and pour the cream, which will be very thick,

0:41:44 > 0:41:48"into a bowl, and stir it well with a wooden spoon or ladle.

0:41:48 > 0:41:52"It is in bad weather that this mode of making butter

0:41:52 > 0:41:54"is particularly advantageous."

0:41:54 > 0:41:59I think the letter is worth an awful lot more than the recipe!

0:41:59 > 0:42:01I think the recipe's barking!

0:42:04 > 0:42:09This Wellington goes in the oven at 200 fan for about 15 minutes,

0:42:09 > 0:42:13while I get on with making a gravy worthy of the man himself.

0:42:14 > 0:42:18Stir in a tablespoonful of flour to the remaining onions,

0:42:18 > 0:42:21before gradually adding hot beef stock.

0:42:21 > 0:42:25And in goes a dollop of redcurrant jelly.

0:42:25 > 0:42:28There's another ingredient that's going in which is very important,

0:42:28 > 0:42:30and that's the port.

0:42:33 > 0:42:37Then let it bubble away until it looks rich and glossy

0:42:37 > 0:42:39before sieving out the onions.

0:42:44 > 0:42:46Well, Mary, here it is,

0:42:46 > 0:42:50and the smell's so good that I met two people outside

0:42:50 > 0:42:53who are very keen to be allowed to try some.

0:42:53 > 0:42:55Lovely to see you again, Roddy.

0:42:55 > 0:42:58Well, nobody knows more than you about venison and deer.

0:42:58 > 0:43:01Roddy is joined by head gardener Brian Cunningham,

0:43:01 > 0:43:04and I hope they're in for a treat.

0:43:04 > 0:43:07I think it's best to do it in thick slices.

0:43:07 > 0:43:11- You'd rather have a thick slice than a thin one, I bet!- Definitely!

0:43:14 > 0:43:16It's going through like butter.

0:43:16 > 0:43:19I hope that it's beautifully pink.

0:43:22 > 0:43:26Oh, just look at that, isn't that fantastic?

0:43:26 > 0:43:29- Is that how it should be? You're the expert.- Lovely!

0:43:30 > 0:43:33On this occasion, it's not going to be ladies first, it's boys first,

0:43:33 > 0:43:35because you're jolly hungry.

0:43:35 > 0:43:37Come on.

0:43:39 > 0:43:42It's funny, all the chaps like the gravy, don't they?

0:43:42 > 0:43:44But we have put quite a lot of port,

0:43:44 > 0:43:47and I know you like a wee tipple from time to time.

0:43:48 > 0:43:51It's not often you get Mary Berry to come and cook for you, is it?

0:43:51 > 0:43:55I love to see the smile on their faces, that's what matters to me.

0:43:55 > 0:43:57It's very nice. I think I'll have some more.

0:43:57 > 0:43:59That's right, come on.

0:43:59 > 0:44:03I think I've won over the head gardener, Brian, with my Wellington.

0:44:07 > 0:44:09And in return, he's kindly agreed to show me

0:44:09 > 0:44:12the estate's eight-acre Pinetum,

0:44:12 > 0:44:15a rare collection of majestic trees.

0:44:17 > 0:44:21Planted back in 1848 by the fourth Earl of Mansfield,

0:44:21 > 0:44:25it's a magnificent example of the Victorian craze

0:44:25 > 0:44:28for collecting plants from around the world.

0:44:28 > 0:44:30But it all began in 1810,

0:44:30 > 0:44:35when the third Earl employed an 11-year-old boy

0:44:35 > 0:44:40who would go on to become one of the most renowned plant hunters of all.

0:44:40 > 0:44:42So do you know the name David Douglas?

0:44:42 > 0:44:45- I think I do. - We've got strong ties with him,

0:44:45 > 0:44:48because he was actually born here in the old village of Scone,

0:44:48 > 0:44:51and he served his apprenticeship here, before moving on

0:44:51 > 0:44:54and eventually working for the RHS and doing a bit of plant hunting

0:44:54 > 0:44:56and exploration in the north-west of America.

0:44:56 > 0:44:59And, of course, that's a huge journey in those days?

0:44:59 > 0:45:02All to just bring us back some treasures.

0:45:02 > 0:45:05But what he's most famous for is his trees, and his forest trees in particular.

0:45:05 > 0:45:10So, maybe we should get out now and show you some of these, Mary.

0:45:10 > 0:45:13So we've got some noble firs...

0:45:14 > 0:45:16..some grand firs...

0:45:17 > 0:45:21..but this cracker here, this is the tree that I was wanting to show you.

0:45:21 > 0:45:23And what is it?

0:45:23 > 0:45:26Well, this is one of David Douglas' most important introductions.

0:45:26 > 0:45:28Must be a Douglas fir.

0:45:28 > 0:45:29That's right.

0:45:29 > 0:45:31And it's not just any old Douglas fir,

0:45:31 > 0:45:35this is one of the first Douglas firs in the country,

0:45:35 > 0:45:41planted in 1834 by seed sent back from America by David Douglas.

0:45:41 > 0:45:45If you imagine Scotland from the 1600s onwards,

0:45:45 > 0:45:50our trees were being decimated for the wars, for shipbuilding,

0:45:50 > 0:45:52the Industrial Revolution,

0:45:52 > 0:45:56and David Douglas noticed that these trees were growing straight,

0:45:56 > 0:45:58they were going to be perfect for timber.

0:45:58 > 0:46:01Brian explains that, along with the Sitka spruce,

0:46:01 > 0:46:06the Douglas fir became the backbone of Scottish timber production,

0:46:06 > 0:46:11helping the country's woodland coverage recover from 4% in 1900,

0:46:11 > 0:46:13to almost 20% now.

0:46:13 > 0:46:16So, we have to thank David Douglas?

0:46:16 > 0:46:19- We certainly do. - But he never saw the result?

0:46:19 > 0:46:20If he looked at Scotland now,

0:46:20 > 0:46:24and the whole landscape is lots of forests of pines,

0:46:24 > 0:46:26he'd be very proud?

0:46:26 > 0:46:28He would be, and quite right.

0:46:28 > 0:46:32But thanks are also due to the likes of the third Earl,

0:46:32 > 0:46:34who supported David Douglas,

0:46:34 > 0:46:37enabling him to transform Scottish forestry

0:46:37 > 0:46:42into the billion pound industry it is today.

0:46:42 > 0:46:45- OVER WALKIE-TALKIE:- Hello Brian, it's Lady Mansfield. Have you

0:46:45 > 0:46:47- still got Mary with you?- I sure do.

0:46:47 > 0:46:50Please could you bring her to the Royal Garden? Thank you!

0:46:50 > 0:46:51We're on our way!

0:46:53 > 0:46:56Today, Brian and the family are carrying on the spirit

0:46:56 > 0:47:00of the third and fourth Earls, with plans to reinstate the orchard

0:47:00 > 0:47:04in the four-acre Victorian walled garden.

0:47:05 > 0:47:08- We've got here, it's been quite a trek!- That's marvellous!

0:47:08 > 0:47:12You know I said that when we had important people to come and visit,

0:47:12 > 0:47:16we really liked it if we could manage to get them

0:47:16 > 0:47:18to plant a tree for us?

0:47:18 > 0:47:21There's a lovely, great hole there, looks perfect.

0:47:21 > 0:47:27So, it would be just fantastic if we could ask you to plant a tree.

0:47:27 > 0:47:29- Come on, let's get going. - If I give you the planting spade...

0:47:29 > 0:47:31Gosh, that's beautifully shiny.

0:47:31 > 0:47:34And Mary, we've chosen a William pear.

0:47:34 > 0:47:36Oh, it's got a good root.

0:47:41 > 0:47:43Getting into this now.

0:47:44 > 0:47:47- Fantastic.- In she goes!

0:47:49 > 0:47:51- Is that OK? - That's beautiful, thank you.

0:47:51 > 0:47:53That's absolutely perfect.

0:47:53 > 0:47:58Well, I feel in very good company with all the royals at Scone Palace.

0:47:58 > 0:48:01Let's hope it grows to be a very fine tree.

0:48:09 > 0:48:11As my visit draws to an end,

0:48:11 > 0:48:14the Palace is gearing up for what will be a real treat -

0:48:14 > 0:48:19a grand dinner for 40 of Lord and Lady Mansfield's great friends,

0:48:19 > 0:48:22followed by traditional Scottish reeling.

0:48:25 > 0:48:27Now, I've got to get my bearings here.

0:48:27 > 0:48:31This must be where the dancing is, but last time I saw it,

0:48:31 > 0:48:34there was a table the whole length of the room.

0:48:34 > 0:48:37I hope all those statues stay like that,

0:48:37 > 0:48:40with the bouncing up and down of the reels,

0:48:40 > 0:48:42because it certainly will make the floor bounce.

0:48:45 > 0:48:46I can see that you're busy, Jean.

0:48:46 > 0:48:48Is this an exciting time for you?

0:48:48 > 0:48:51Yes, it's lovely, lovely, really exciting, really exciting.

0:48:51 > 0:48:55This is for the pre-dinner drinks tonight.

0:48:55 > 0:48:57We're having champagne.

0:48:57 > 0:48:58Nothing but the best.

0:48:58 > 0:49:02Talking of nothing but the best, were you here when the Queen came?

0:49:02 > 0:49:04- Yes.- What drink did she have?

0:49:04 > 0:49:10Dubonnet. Dubonnet, and she had to get a new bottle because, well,

0:49:10 > 0:49:14we thought maybe somebody had served her a bad drink, maybe a bottle

0:49:14 > 0:49:17they'd had in the back of the cupboard for a number of years.

0:49:17 > 0:49:19It's the same with Princess Margaret,

0:49:19 > 0:49:24she's only once ever been here that I know of, and when she came,

0:49:24 > 0:49:27she made up her own gin and tonic.

0:49:27 > 0:49:29Did she? And did she like it?

0:49:29 > 0:49:32- Yes.- We've heard she enjoyed it, of course.- Yes.

0:49:34 > 0:49:37I've been tasked with coming up with a suitably Scottish pud

0:49:37 > 0:49:38for the party.

0:49:40 > 0:49:43So, I've recruited William and a bottle of Scotch,

0:49:43 > 0:49:46and I'm inspired to make an old favourite,

0:49:46 > 0:49:49full of fine Scots ingredients.

0:49:49 > 0:49:51Cranachan couldn't be more Scottish.

0:49:51 > 0:49:54In fact, my mama would be very proud of me.

0:49:54 > 0:49:56- Will you help me?- I'll try to help.

0:49:56 > 0:49:58The first thing to do is to caramelise the oats

0:49:58 > 0:50:00to make them nice and crunchy.

0:50:00 > 0:50:04So, equal amounts of light muscovado sugar

0:50:04 > 0:50:08and jumbo Scottish oats go into the pan with a knob of butter.

0:50:08 > 0:50:10Just get turning with that.

0:50:10 > 0:50:11So literally just flip it around?

0:50:11 > 0:50:13Flip it around, preferably not all over the floor!

0:50:13 > 0:50:16And I've got these raspberries.

0:50:16 > 0:50:19Am I right in thinking that this area is particularly famous for raspberries?

0:50:19 > 0:50:21Yes, yes, yes.

0:50:21 > 0:50:23This would be the raspberry bowl of Britain.

0:50:23 > 0:50:27We have very long summer days, a bit of rain, it is Scotland,

0:50:27 > 0:50:29but long summer days, that's the key.

0:50:31 > 0:50:32Now for the cream.

0:50:32 > 0:50:35As this cranachan is for a special occasion,

0:50:35 > 0:50:40I'm going to make it extra luxurious by whisking double cream

0:50:40 > 0:50:41into rich mascarpone.

0:50:43 > 0:50:47When the oats are beautifully brown, put to one side to cool.

0:50:48 > 0:50:50Now we need the whisky.

0:50:51 > 0:50:54Shall we judge it? What do you think?

0:50:54 > 0:50:57- Like that? - I think that looks perfect.

0:50:57 > 0:50:58We'll see how we go.

0:50:59 > 0:51:03Fold the cooled oats into the whisky and cream,

0:51:03 > 0:51:05along with those lovely Scottish raspberries.

0:51:08 > 0:51:10It's a bit like Eton mess.

0:51:10 > 0:51:12- It is, yeah.- But it's Scottish.

0:51:12 > 0:51:14- Scottish mess.- Scottish mess!

0:51:17 > 0:51:19It is really sheer luxury.

0:51:19 > 0:51:21- Come on.- All right.

0:51:28 > 0:51:31I reckon you might have topped the chart with that, that's very good.

0:51:31 > 0:51:34It will give us good energy for the dancing to come, as well.

0:51:34 > 0:51:37And we'll need it. Well, some of us will!

0:51:40 > 0:51:45Always serve at the guest's left-hand side.

0:51:45 > 0:51:49Water and the wine at the guest's right-hand side.

0:51:52 > 0:51:57Down in the kitchen, Steve Gilroy, the head chef, is hard at work,

0:51:57 > 0:52:01and I can't wait to see what he's serving ahead of my pud

0:52:01 > 0:52:03for tonight's grand dinner.

0:52:04 > 0:52:07May I come into the chef's domain?

0:52:07 > 0:52:08Hello.

0:52:08 > 0:52:10What's going on, Steve?

0:52:10 > 0:52:14We're preparing canapes for the dinner that you're attending.

0:52:14 > 0:52:17Lady Mansfield said you're going to have venison in some form?

0:52:17 > 0:52:20Yeah, we have some lovely roe deer from the Estate.

0:52:20 > 0:52:23It's the same dish that I did for Lord Mansfield's 60th last year.

0:52:23 > 0:52:26- So, it's well practised?- Yeah, it's well practised!- Well, that's good.

0:52:26 > 0:52:27Goodness gracious, what is this?

0:52:27 > 0:52:30This is a haggis bonbon, and it's with a whisky jus,

0:52:30 > 0:52:33so you eat the haggis and then drink the jus.

0:52:33 > 0:52:35You don't want too many of those!

0:52:35 > 0:52:37No, well, it depends!

0:52:42 > 0:52:46BAGPIPES PLAY

0:52:58 > 0:53:03A huge array of the Murrays' family friends have gathered for the night,

0:53:03 > 0:53:07and I'm told that there are many fine Scottish dancers amongst them.

0:53:08 > 0:53:13And I've got my mother's Wilson tartan sash to help me fit in.

0:53:13 > 0:53:16Mary, can I introduce you to Jane McNab?

0:53:16 > 0:53:19- Hello, how do you do?- How do you do?

0:53:19 > 0:53:22This is Brian Ivory, Sir Brian Ivory,

0:53:22 > 0:53:24and this is Jane's husband, Jamie McNab.

0:53:24 > 0:53:25- Hello.- Hello.

0:53:25 > 0:53:28I have to look, is that badger,

0:53:28 > 0:53:31- or... No, what is it? - No, it's horsehair.

0:53:31 > 0:53:35Horsehair! You can see how ignorant I am.

0:53:55 > 0:53:59- How many's that?- Three, four, five, six, seven... 14.- Perfect.

0:53:59 > 0:54:00Come on, then.

0:54:05 > 0:54:07Dinner is served,

0:54:07 > 0:54:11and Jean is in her element, keeping everything flowing smoothly.

0:54:11 > 0:54:13Thank you.

0:54:13 > 0:54:16The seared venison is the star of the show.

0:54:19 > 0:54:23And, with the palace sparkling and fully brought to life,

0:54:23 > 0:54:28it's easy to imagine the many royals enjoying the Murray hospitality

0:54:28 > 0:54:30throughout the centuries.

0:54:32 > 0:54:35- The one that Mary's done was like that, all right?- Right, OK.

0:54:35 > 0:54:40And the chef has made sure there's enough of my cranachan for everyone.

0:54:41 > 0:54:43Let battle commence, ha-ha!

0:54:53 > 0:54:55One day you will be the Earl of Mansfield.

0:54:55 > 0:54:58- I will.- Have you thought how you'll feel about that?

0:54:58 > 0:55:01Quite the responsibility.

0:55:01 > 0:55:04That's 16-plus generations.

0:55:04 > 0:55:08One thing I've always been keen to ensure

0:55:08 > 0:55:11is I don't want to be known as William who just went home.

0:55:11 > 0:55:13That's what I could very easily do,

0:55:13 > 0:55:15but I wouldn't be able to cope with that.

0:55:15 > 0:55:17I want to go out in the world and earn my own stripes.

0:55:17 > 0:55:22And the relationship that you have with your staff is extraordinary.

0:55:22 > 0:55:23It means a lot to you, doesn't it?

0:55:23 > 0:55:25It means a huge amount to me.

0:55:25 > 0:55:28Theoretically speaking, they should call me now My Lord,

0:55:28 > 0:55:30which I find really strange.

0:55:30 > 0:55:33So I insist upon them all still calling me William,

0:55:33 > 0:55:36because that's what they've called me for years.

0:55:36 > 0:55:39So you wish to carry on the traditions of Scone?

0:55:39 > 0:55:41Very much so, and, yeah,

0:55:41 > 0:55:44I want to continue the tradition and marry the old to the new

0:55:44 > 0:55:47and drag Scone into the 21st-century and beyond,

0:55:47 > 0:55:49and I'm very excited by that.

0:55:53 > 0:55:56MUSIC: The Dashing White Sergeant

0:55:56 > 0:55:57And back!

0:55:57 > 0:55:59It's all coming back to me...

0:55:59 > 0:56:01Sort of!

0:56:01 > 0:56:03But what fun to be reeling again.

0:56:03 > 0:56:05And turn!

0:56:05 > 0:56:10It's been so wonderful to be here amongst all this incredible history

0:56:10 > 0:56:11at Scone...

0:56:11 > 0:56:12Woo-hoo!

0:56:12 > 0:56:15..and get a taste of the royal pleasures

0:56:15 > 0:56:18that so delighted all the kings and queens

0:56:18 > 0:56:21who came here over the past 12 centuries.

0:56:21 > 0:56:27I'll never forget being given this one-off peek into the private side

0:56:27 > 0:56:29of this Scottish national treasure.

0:56:29 > 0:56:32And it's good to know that, with William and his family

0:56:32 > 0:56:36and their loyal staff, its future is in safe hands.

0:56:47 > 0:56:52Next time, I visit Powderham Castle on the Devon coast

0:56:52 > 0:56:56to meet the youngest generation of one of Britain's oldest families...

0:56:56 > 0:56:58The cream before the jam.

0:56:58 > 0:57:02..who are taking on the challenge of a great estate...

0:57:02 > 0:57:05There's an awful lot for you to do here, Charlie.

0:57:05 > 0:57:08..and doing things a bit differently.

0:57:08 > 0:57:10The best thing about the staircase, obviously,

0:57:10 > 0:57:12is going down on a tray or on your bottom.