0:00:02 > 0:00:04I love Easter -
0:00:04 > 0:00:06it's one of my favourite times of year,
0:00:06 > 0:00:08full of new life and hope.
0:00:10 > 0:00:14It's a time when food is at the very heart of our celebration.
0:00:17 > 0:00:21In my family, Easter isn't Easter without hot cross buns,
0:00:21 > 0:00:24simnel cake, and, of course, roast lamb.
0:00:24 > 0:00:28'As well as showing you how to cook some of my Easter favourites...'
0:00:28 > 0:00:31It doesn't get better than this.
0:00:31 > 0:00:32'..in these two programmes,
0:00:32 > 0:00:37'I'm off to find out how Britain's many vibrant Christian communities
0:00:37 > 0:00:38'commemorate Easter...'
0:00:40 > 0:00:43THEY SPEAK OWN LANGUAGE
0:00:43 > 0:00:45'..why cooking has such an important place...'
0:00:45 > 0:00:46What does that say?
0:00:46 > 0:00:48- "Have faith in my cooking." - "Have faith in my cooking."
0:00:48 > 0:00:51Well, you certainly did have faith in my cooking.
0:00:51 > 0:00:52Found one!
0:00:52 > 0:00:56'..and why food is particularly symbolic at this time of year.'
0:00:56 > 0:00:57Yay!
0:00:58 > 0:01:00- Aw...- Aw...
0:01:00 > 0:01:03I don't mind. You can be the winner.
0:01:03 > 0:01:05So I'm going to meet families and cooks
0:01:05 > 0:01:09from different cultures across Britain.
0:01:09 > 0:01:10You should be very proud of that.
0:01:10 > 0:01:14- I think it looks... - Oh, that looks beautiful.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17- Oh, I do like that. - I'm pleased.- It's lovely.
0:01:17 > 0:01:21'And I'll be doing all this so that, this year,
0:01:21 > 0:01:25'we can have the most marvellous Easter feast,
0:01:25 > 0:01:27'where I'll be serving the delicious foods
0:01:27 > 0:01:30'I've collected from around Britain.'
0:01:30 > 0:01:31- There we go, young man.- OK.
0:01:31 > 0:01:35'It'll be a celebration that brings us all around one Easter table.'
0:01:44 > 0:01:49The lead-up to Easter is a time when all of us give thanks.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52I go to church regularly so, for me,
0:01:52 > 0:01:55it's a time of reflection as well as celebration.
0:01:56 > 0:02:00This year, I'm preparing my own big Easter banquet,
0:02:00 > 0:02:04so I want to find out all about the specialities
0:02:04 > 0:02:06that capture the spirit of the season.
0:02:08 > 0:02:11Easter wouldn't be Easter without hot cross buns,
0:02:11 > 0:02:14but before I show you how to make them,
0:02:14 > 0:02:16I'm going to see where they originated.
0:02:18 > 0:02:21I've come to the oldest site of continuous Christian worship
0:02:21 > 0:02:26in Britain, the rather wonderful St Albans Cathedral,
0:02:26 > 0:02:29on the trail of this Easter favourite.
0:02:29 > 0:02:31The cathedral warden, Stephen,
0:02:31 > 0:02:36has promised to let me into the secrets of its distant past.
0:02:36 > 0:02:39Now, Stephen, I know you are going to tell me
0:02:39 > 0:02:43that here in St Albans was the original hot cross bun,
0:02:43 > 0:02:45and you call it the Alban bun.
0:02:45 > 0:02:49- We think that is true. - You've got to prove it. Come on.
0:02:49 > 0:02:52Here's the evidence we have.
0:02:52 > 0:02:57"In the year of our Lord 1361, Thomas Rockcliffe,
0:02:57 > 0:03:00"a monk attached to the refectory at St Albans Abbey,
0:03:00 > 0:03:05"caused a quantity of small, sweet, spiced cakes, marked with a cross,
0:03:05 > 0:03:08"which he directed were to be given away
0:03:08 > 0:03:11"at the door of the refectory on Good Friday."
0:03:11 > 0:03:14It might have looked like a gift of charity,
0:03:14 > 0:03:18but the Abbey knew which side of its bun the butter was on.
0:03:18 > 0:03:20The abbey, in the 14th century,
0:03:20 > 0:03:23had a pretty rough relationship with the local people,
0:03:23 > 0:03:27and I think it's interesting that here's Thomas making these buns
0:03:27 > 0:03:30to give to the poor of the abbey on Good Friday.
0:03:30 > 0:03:34- I think he's also trying to do a bit of, erm...- PR.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37..perhaps PR. A bit of, you know, "We're good people, really."
0:03:37 > 0:03:42The Alban buns are made to a secret recipe, passed down by the abbey.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45They're more spicy than the familiar ones.
0:03:45 > 0:03:49'These days, the abbey commissions a local baker
0:03:49 > 0:03:52'to make around 3,000 buns every Easter,
0:03:52 > 0:03:56'and they sell like hotcakes in the cathedral cafe.'
0:03:56 > 0:03:59- Well, I think it's about time we had a try.- I think so.
0:03:59 > 0:04:01- Shall we have a go?- Right.
0:04:02 > 0:04:06- Well, I can see that you certainly like butter.- I'm ready.- Yes.- Yes.
0:04:06 > 0:04:09It's an excuse. The bun's an excuse for the butter, really.
0:04:12 > 0:04:14What do you think? Have we converted you?
0:04:14 > 0:04:16Do you think the Alban bun is superior?
0:04:16 > 0:04:19I think it's a very different bun,
0:04:19 > 0:04:23because it is strongly spiced and it just has currants in.
0:04:23 > 0:04:26I think you're right. I think it's a... It's a...a unique.
0:04:26 > 0:04:28It's another dimension for me.
0:04:30 > 0:04:35Personally, I think we've improved on the bun down the centuries.
0:04:35 > 0:04:37From its spicy beginnings at St Albans,
0:04:37 > 0:04:42the recipe has evolved, and so has the attitude towards Lent -
0:04:42 > 0:04:47traditionally, the 40 days when we abstain from luxuries.
0:04:47 > 0:04:49Over the years, the hot cross bun
0:04:49 > 0:04:51has changed from a Good Friday offering
0:04:51 > 0:04:55into a staple of the high street that sells all year round.
0:04:55 > 0:05:00In my family, we have hot cross buns throughout Lent.
0:05:00 > 0:05:02I love them with lots of butter
0:05:02 > 0:05:04and, when they've been about for a few days,
0:05:04 > 0:05:07I toast them with more butter on.
0:05:07 > 0:05:09They're a bit of a palaver to make,
0:05:09 > 0:05:11but I promise you, it's worth a try.
0:05:14 > 0:05:17I've got all my ingredients weighed out and ready.
0:05:17 > 0:05:20First of all, a strong, white flour.
0:05:21 > 0:05:25'To make a batch of 12, I'm using 500g of strong flour
0:05:25 > 0:05:30'and 75g of castor sugar before I add the spices.'
0:05:30 > 0:05:33Traditionally, it would have been allspice.
0:05:33 > 0:05:36I use mixed spice because I like to have things on the shelf
0:05:36 > 0:05:39that I use often.
0:05:39 > 0:05:42'In go two teaspoons of mixed spice to one of cinnamon,
0:05:42 > 0:05:45'and 10g each of yeast and salt,
0:05:45 > 0:05:48'making sure to put them on opposite sides of the bowl.'
0:05:48 > 0:05:51If you put them together on top of each other,
0:05:51 > 0:05:53you'll find that it won't rise so well.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56You mustn't mix the two, one on top.
0:05:56 > 0:05:59'Then, for a lovely flavour, add the zest of a lemon,
0:05:59 > 0:06:05'40g of melted butter, a beaten egg and 300ml of warm milk...'
0:06:05 > 0:06:07MIXER BUZZES
0:06:07 > 0:06:09'..and work it all together.'
0:06:13 > 0:06:16Right, that's all come together.
0:06:16 > 0:06:18Let's have a look.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20That's it.
0:06:20 > 0:06:21It looks just about right.
0:06:23 > 0:06:24'Now, for the fruit.
0:06:24 > 0:06:28'I like a generous helping of mixed orange and lemon peel
0:06:28 > 0:06:31'and plump sultanas.'
0:06:31 > 0:06:34You might think it's a lot of fruit in my buns -
0:06:34 > 0:06:38I like them heavily fruited, and a bit of a luxury bun.
0:06:43 > 0:06:44'That goes back in the mixer,
0:06:44 > 0:06:47'before being left to rise for an hour and a half.
0:06:50 > 0:06:52'A quick knead,
0:06:52 > 0:06:55'then back in the bowl for a second rising.'
0:06:58 > 0:07:01When I first made hot cross buns in the '60s,
0:07:01 > 0:07:04I only used to do one rising,
0:07:04 > 0:07:08and the result was rather close-textured buns,
0:07:08 > 0:07:12so with having a double rising of the dough when it's in one piece,
0:07:12 > 0:07:15you get a wonderful, open texture.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19'Now I'm ready to shape the buns.'
0:07:19 > 0:07:22Everybody's got different ways of rolling.
0:07:22 > 0:07:26You can just bring it in from the side like that
0:07:26 > 0:07:29and if you're very proficient, you can do it with two hands,
0:07:29 > 0:07:32if you've watched some true bakers doing it.
0:07:32 > 0:07:35I shall do it with one, because that's how I get on.
0:07:38 > 0:07:41It takes a bit of practice, this, I can tell you.
0:07:41 > 0:07:42So, you press them down
0:07:42 > 0:07:44and then bring your hand up again.
0:07:46 > 0:07:47There we are.
0:07:49 > 0:07:53'Then, cover the baking sheets for an hour for a final prove.'
0:07:57 > 0:07:59That's just as they should look.
0:07:59 > 0:08:01They've joined up,
0:08:01 > 0:08:02they're a good size,
0:08:02 > 0:08:04but they're without their crosses.
0:08:06 > 0:08:09'Use a simple flour-and-water paste to pipe across the top.'
0:08:14 > 0:08:20And, of course, the cross symbolises Christ on the crucifix
0:08:20 > 0:08:24and it's a very essential part of the hot cross bun.
0:08:32 > 0:08:37'Now, into the oven at 200 fan for 15 to 20 minutes.'
0:08:43 > 0:08:46How about that, then? I think they look splendid.
0:08:53 > 0:08:56But what's lacking is a lovely glaze on top.
0:08:57 > 0:09:01'Warm golden syrup gives them a lovely, delicious, sticky finish.'
0:09:06 > 0:09:07Mmm. Do you know?
0:09:07 > 0:09:09The moment I've cut those in half,
0:09:09 > 0:09:10the spices are hitting me.
0:09:12 > 0:09:13I can't wait.
0:09:18 > 0:09:19I'm really proud of these.
0:09:19 > 0:09:22They taste absolutely superb.
0:09:22 > 0:09:24They're light, they're full of fruit,
0:09:24 > 0:09:27and I shall enjoy these all over Easter,
0:09:27 > 0:09:28not just Good Friday.
0:09:34 > 0:09:36Wherever you go in the Christian world,
0:09:36 > 0:09:40you find the hot cross bun has got there before you.
0:09:45 > 0:09:49The Caribbean community began coming here in large numbers
0:09:49 > 0:09:54in the 1950s, and they brought their own version with them -
0:09:54 > 0:09:55the Jamaican bun.
0:09:58 > 0:10:00Bettina was born in Jamaica.
0:10:00 > 0:10:03She moved to Nottingham when she was nine years old
0:10:03 > 0:10:06but she still loves the foods of her childhood.
0:10:08 > 0:10:09I made these yesterday...
0:10:11 > 0:10:15..cos, you know me, I just love the baking.
0:10:15 > 0:10:17- These look lovely but... - It looks a bit moist, though. Moist.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19- Yes, very moist, here.- Yeah.
0:10:19 > 0:10:24She bakes the strangely loaf-shaped Jamaican bun every year
0:10:24 > 0:10:27to share with friends at her local Baptist church.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29THEY SING A HYMN
0:10:32 > 0:10:36Surprisingly, this distant cousin of the hot cross bun
0:10:36 > 0:10:40is made with stout and, often, no eggs.
0:10:40 > 0:10:42There are different ways of making the bun
0:10:42 > 0:10:46because the older people would make it with yeast.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49I tried it with yeast and, well, I tell you, you could have thrown it
0:10:49 > 0:10:52and you could have killed a bird in the air.
0:10:58 > 0:11:00Would you like some bun and cheese?
0:11:00 > 0:11:04Traditionally, the bun is served with Jamaican cheese.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06I can't wait to try it...
0:11:07 > 0:11:11..so I've invited Bettina to bring her bun,
0:11:11 > 0:11:14and a few more of her traditional Jamaican foods,
0:11:14 > 0:11:16to give me some inspiration.
0:11:16 > 0:11:18- Bettina.- Hello.
0:11:18 > 0:11:20- How nice to see you. - Thank you, Mary.
0:11:23 > 0:11:27What about this bun over there that I think is a loaf?
0:11:27 > 0:11:30I'm going to let you taste a piece of it, Mary.
0:11:30 > 0:11:32It looks a lovely texture.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38You have to... You have to have the bun with some cheese.
0:11:38 > 0:11:39You can't eat it without cheese.
0:11:39 > 0:11:42- Can I just have it without to begin with?- Yeah, go ahead, Mary.
0:11:42 > 0:11:44As you're Mary, I'll let you.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49Mmm! Oh, I do like that.
0:11:49 > 0:11:52- I'm pleased. I'm pleased. - It's lovely.
0:11:52 > 0:11:56'For Caribbean households right across Britain and the West Indies,
0:11:56 > 0:11:59'Good Friday means fish
0:11:59 > 0:12:01'and for lots of Jamaicans,
0:12:01 > 0:12:04'escoveitch fish is sure to be on the menu.'
0:12:05 > 0:12:10On Good Friday, we would have fried fish, and this is a snapper.
0:12:10 > 0:12:14It's normally cleaned with a concoction of lime, lemon,
0:12:14 > 0:12:15vinegar and salt,
0:12:15 > 0:12:21so start off by one, two...
0:12:21 > 0:12:26'The fish is given a generous helping of native Jamaican allspice
0:12:26 > 0:12:28'and seasoned with salt and pepper.'
0:12:28 > 0:12:30- Is it beginning to sizzle?- It is.
0:12:33 > 0:12:37And I want it to go really, really brown and crispy.
0:12:39 > 0:12:43'Abstaining from meat is a kind of penance for many Christians,
0:12:43 > 0:12:46'which is how the tradition of fish on Friday came about.'
0:12:49 > 0:12:53- It's lovely, the way the slashes that you made...- Yeah.
0:12:53 > 0:12:55..have opened, and it's a crispy brown.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01I think that should be about ready.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04Gosh, it looks good, doesn't it?
0:13:04 > 0:13:06The "escoveitch" part of the recipe
0:13:06 > 0:13:11is a medley of vegetables with one unusual ingredient.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- I bet you don't know what this is. - I have no idea what that is.
0:13:15 > 0:13:16This is called a cho-cho.
0:13:16 > 0:13:19- And that...?- It grows wild and...
0:13:19 > 0:13:22How can I describe the taste?
0:13:22 > 0:13:27Between a cucumber and a courgette.
0:13:27 > 0:13:30- Oh, it's mild and watery. - Yes, very watery,
0:13:30 > 0:13:32so you can have it raw in salads.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34- If you can pour some vinegar... - How much?
0:13:34 > 0:13:38Just pour, Mary. I'll tell you when to stop.
0:13:38 > 0:13:41- And this is just ordinary malt vinegar?- Yes, yes.
0:13:41 > 0:13:43- Vinegar.- And that's it.
0:13:43 > 0:13:47'Then in go the peppers, onions, spring onions,
0:13:47 > 0:13:49'with a sprig or two of thyme,
0:13:49 > 0:13:56'and to give it its true Jamaican flavour, the mysterious cho-cho,
0:13:56 > 0:14:01'a little fiery Scotch bonnet chilli and some native Jamaican allspice.'
0:14:02 > 0:14:04Over the top...
0:14:04 > 0:14:08'The tradition of fried fish in vinegar stretches back to
0:14:08 > 0:14:11'the Moors who occupied Spain in the Middle Ages.
0:14:11 > 0:14:15'When the Spanish came to Jamaica 500 years ago,
0:14:15 > 0:14:16'they brought it with them.'
0:14:16 > 0:14:19Right, so we're part-steaming it
0:14:19 > 0:14:23- and part-cooking it in the vinegar at the bottom?- Yes, yes.
0:14:23 > 0:14:26'It's quick and easy to make - just right for Good Friday,
0:14:26 > 0:14:31'traditionally a quiet time, when thoughts turn to higher things.'
0:14:31 > 0:14:34I remember my grandmother, once we'd been to church on Good Friday,
0:14:34 > 0:14:36would come back home, the fish and everything
0:14:36 > 0:14:40would have already been done and she'd sit for hours reading a Bible,
0:14:40 > 0:14:41but I couldn't go outside to play -
0:14:41 > 0:14:44I had to sit and learn something from the Bible,
0:14:44 > 0:14:46because that was how it was.
0:14:46 > 0:14:49- I think she brought you up really well.- She did.
0:14:49 > 0:14:52'After ten minutes, fold in some shavings of carrot
0:14:52 > 0:14:54'and it's ready to serve.'
0:14:54 > 0:14:57So, we can put this bad boy...
0:14:57 > 0:14:59I think it's a good boy.
0:15:04 > 0:15:05It looks so tempting.
0:15:07 > 0:15:09Look at that.
0:15:09 > 0:15:10It... Oh...
0:15:12 > 0:15:13Mmm!
0:15:13 > 0:15:15I think it's absolutely delicious.
0:15:15 > 0:15:20That, to me, is something totally different and so simple.
0:15:20 > 0:15:24It's simply cooking a really fresh fish beautifully.
0:15:24 > 0:15:25Thank you so much.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28I've really enjoyed it with you, Mary. Thank you.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37The plans for my own Easter feast
0:15:37 > 0:15:39at our local church hall
0:15:39 > 0:15:41are already taking shape.
0:15:41 > 0:15:44My team of expert decorators are hard at it.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48I'm hoping to bring the most exciting Easter dishes
0:15:48 > 0:15:50from around Britain to inspire me,
0:15:50 > 0:15:53together with firm favourites of my own,
0:15:53 > 0:15:58and I've already had one new idea to spruce up my trusty regulars.
0:15:58 > 0:16:01We are going to have fish on Good Friday.
0:16:01 > 0:16:05We always do, but I have to say, it's nearly always fish pie.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09Bettina has inspired me to do something a little bit different.
0:16:10 > 0:16:14'So, I'm cooking a whole fish as well, and I'm using coriander
0:16:14 > 0:16:18'and a colourful salsa to spice things up a bit.'
0:16:18 > 0:16:21I've got a sea bass here - a whole sea bass.
0:16:21 > 0:16:23I've got the fishmonger to take the head off.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25Also, to descale it.
0:16:25 > 0:16:29So, to begin with, I'm going to make three slashes on each side.
0:16:30 > 0:16:33'It's important to have a good, sharp knife,
0:16:33 > 0:16:36'and go right down, almost to the bone,
0:16:36 > 0:16:40'because I'm going to be filling this fish with lovely, fresh herbs.'
0:16:41 > 0:16:45So, there's a generous bunch of coriander.
0:16:45 > 0:16:46'Nothing goes to waste -
0:16:46 > 0:16:50'even the stalks help to give the fish flavour.'
0:16:50 > 0:16:52So, just take a pinch of that
0:16:52 > 0:16:55put it into the slit,
0:16:55 > 0:16:58and the coriander will permeate the flesh.
0:17:00 > 0:17:04A little bit of pepper and salt in each of the slashes
0:17:04 > 0:17:06and, to be really fussy,
0:17:06 > 0:17:09because this is for Good Friday,
0:17:09 > 0:17:11I'm going to cut the tail.
0:17:11 > 0:17:13It's called vandyking.
0:17:13 > 0:17:15Don't ask me why it's called vandyking,
0:17:15 > 0:17:17but it just looks very extra pretty.
0:17:19 > 0:17:20That's it.
0:17:20 > 0:17:25'Transfer the fish to a large sheet of lightly-buttered foil.'
0:17:25 > 0:17:27Pull that over like that,
0:17:27 > 0:17:29and we're going to safely
0:17:29 > 0:17:31tuck our fish in
0:17:31 > 0:17:35so that none of the juices come out.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38'The fish goes into the oven at 180 fan.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42'A big fish like this will take about half an hour, and don't forget
0:17:42 > 0:17:47'to turn it after 15 minutes so it cooks evenly on both sides.'
0:17:47 > 0:17:49Now, to my salsa.
0:17:49 > 0:17:51It's a wonderful, colourful salsa,
0:17:51 > 0:17:53full of flavour - a bit like Bettina's.
0:17:53 > 0:17:57I have some tomatoes, grapefruit, green chillies,
0:17:57 > 0:18:00lime, ginger, mango chutney,
0:18:00 > 0:18:05and I don't have cho-cho, but I do have cucumber.
0:18:05 > 0:18:07So I'm going to use half a cucumber.
0:18:08 > 0:18:11You need to take the seeds out of the cucumber,
0:18:11 > 0:18:13otherwise the salsa will be too watery.
0:18:13 > 0:18:16I've got the end of a spoon here, so I'm going to try that.
0:18:16 > 0:18:19You can use a melon baller, you can do all sorts of things.
0:18:21 > 0:18:22That's it.
0:18:25 > 0:18:29Chop the cucumber and add it to the flesh of a large grapefruit,
0:18:29 > 0:18:32along with six seeded and diced tomatoes,
0:18:32 > 0:18:35one finely chopped green chilli,
0:18:35 > 0:18:37the juice and zest of a lime
0:18:37 > 0:18:40and some freshly grated ginger, to add a little zing.
0:18:40 > 0:18:44Right, now it comes to the mango chutney.
0:18:44 > 0:18:47Three really good tablespoons - are you watching me?
0:18:47 > 0:18:52A big tablespoon - one...two...three.
0:18:52 > 0:18:54That's it.
0:18:54 > 0:18:56I really like a bit of sweetness with it.
0:18:56 > 0:18:58We've got plenty of sharp there -
0:18:58 > 0:19:00we've got the grapefruit and we've got the lime -
0:19:00 > 0:19:03but the mango chutney just brings it all together.
0:19:05 > 0:19:08Lastly, a good glug of olive oil.
0:19:11 > 0:19:12Out comes the fish.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15Leave it to rest for a few minutes,
0:19:15 > 0:19:19and I like to warm the salsa, to bring out the flavour.
0:19:20 > 0:19:22At the last minute,
0:19:22 > 0:19:25season and add a little chopped coriander or parsley.
0:19:28 > 0:19:32I like to serve my fish with the skin removed,
0:19:32 > 0:19:35so you can really see that fresh green herb.
0:19:36 > 0:19:40I think that's something really, really special for Good Friday.
0:19:48 > 0:19:53Nothing is more full of Easter symbolism than eggs -
0:19:53 > 0:19:56they're signs of new life and promise.
0:19:59 > 0:20:04As I continue to gather fresh ideas for my big Easter feast,
0:20:04 > 0:20:07I've come to find a traditional Russian recipe
0:20:07 > 0:20:11that serves eggs in a truly imaginative way.
0:20:11 > 0:20:14I think it might provide me with the perfect canape.
0:20:16 > 0:20:20'I've come to meet Karina, who moved here from Moscow 12 years ago,
0:20:20 > 0:20:23'to see how she gets ready for her Easter celebrations.'
0:20:23 > 0:20:25- Karina. Hello. - Dobro pozhalovat.
0:20:25 > 0:20:27- Welcome.- Nice to see you. - Nice to see you.
0:20:27 > 0:20:32There are 40,000 Russian expatriates living in Britain.
0:20:32 > 0:20:34For the Christian community among them,
0:20:34 > 0:20:38Easter has always been the most important feast of the year.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40For some mysterious reason,
0:20:40 > 0:20:44Easter was the only holiday which survived.
0:20:44 > 0:20:47Christmas was banned, all other religious holidays were banned,
0:20:47 > 0:20:51but Easter, for some reason, survived.
0:20:51 > 0:20:54So Easter was really a climax of the year for you,
0:20:54 > 0:20:57because if you were not allowed to have Christmas,
0:20:57 > 0:21:00Easter would be something to look forward to.
0:21:01 > 0:21:05This looks well loved, well worn,
0:21:05 > 0:21:09- and it's lovely to see a cookbook that is used.- Absolutely, yeah.
0:21:09 > 0:21:14This is from, um, the "abundance era", as we call it.
0:21:14 > 0:21:18It's 1953, so imagine - it's really special.
0:21:18 > 0:21:22This was like, probably, you know, like a cooking bible.
0:21:22 > 0:21:24It looks as though it's a sponsored book,
0:21:24 > 0:21:26because there are all sorts of branded goods...
0:21:26 > 0:21:28- LAUGHING:- It's government-sponsored!
0:21:28 > 0:21:32- Is it government-sponsored? - Yes, because, you know, Stalin...
0:21:32 > 0:21:36It was the period of Stalin, so Stalin was absolutely determined
0:21:36 > 0:21:38to convince Soviet people
0:21:38 > 0:21:41that we are heading towards abundance.
0:21:41 > 0:21:45So you were supposed to be looking forward to plenty.
0:21:45 > 0:21:46Yes, we were looking forward to that.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50Which was just exactly what you were not looking forward to.
0:21:50 > 0:21:52Things were going to get, um...
0:21:52 > 0:21:54It was getting worse and worse, actually, yes.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58Stalin's cookbook was hardly a true reflection
0:21:58 > 0:22:01of what dinner tables looked like across Russia.
0:22:03 > 0:22:07As communism fell, Karina really felt the pinch.
0:22:09 > 0:22:13Sometimes, you walk into the shop, and the only thing you see
0:22:13 > 0:22:16is, like, spaghetti sticking out - that was it.
0:22:16 > 0:22:17There's nothing else.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19So we were looking at it, thinking,
0:22:19 > 0:22:21"Mmm, what can we have with spaghetti?
0:22:21 > 0:22:23"There is no butter, no cheese."
0:22:24 > 0:22:26Despite the shortages,
0:22:26 > 0:22:30Karina remembers their family gatherings with affection
0:22:30 > 0:22:33and the dishes that her mother created when she was a child,
0:22:33 > 0:22:36especially during the Easter celebration.
0:22:38 > 0:22:39Karina is going to show me
0:22:39 > 0:22:42these beautiful stuffed devilled eggs -
0:22:42 > 0:22:45a gorgeous first course for my own feast.
0:22:49 > 0:22:53The eggs are pickled with beetroot to give them a vibrant colour,
0:22:53 > 0:22:56along with shallots, garlic and allspice,
0:22:56 > 0:22:58mixed with cloves and peppercorns
0:22:58 > 0:23:01to give it some heat.
0:23:01 > 0:23:03You've got some cinnamon bark in there.
0:23:03 > 0:23:05Yes, yeah, because it just... I don't know,
0:23:05 > 0:23:07it just gives a little warmth to it.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10So rather than sugar, you use honey.
0:23:10 > 0:23:12So, that looks a good mixture, there.
0:23:12 > 0:23:15- All we need is vinegar and water. - Absolutely.
0:23:15 > 0:23:19Not wanting to make the pickling water overpowering,
0:23:19 > 0:23:22Karina mixes two parts water to one part vinegar,
0:23:22 > 0:23:25then lets it simmer for a few minutes.
0:23:25 > 0:23:29She then strains the liquid and lets it cool,
0:23:29 > 0:23:32before pickling the hard-boiled eggs for 12 hours.
0:23:34 > 0:23:36So that's magic.
0:23:36 > 0:23:38We'll cut them in half and see what they look like.
0:23:38 > 0:23:39See what's there.
0:23:42 > 0:23:44- Doesn't that look pretty? - They're pretty,
0:23:44 > 0:23:46with all three colours going on.
0:23:46 > 0:23:48The yolks are then scooped out
0:23:48 > 0:23:50and mixed with something rather special
0:23:50 > 0:23:53to give it that authentic Russian flavour.
0:23:53 > 0:23:56So, this is a pickled herring.
0:23:56 > 0:23:59A Russian table without herring is not really a Russian table.
0:23:59 > 0:24:01I love herrings.
0:24:01 > 0:24:05Added to the egg yolks and herring is Dijon mustard, chives and dill...
0:24:08 > 0:24:10- It smells really nice, doesn't it? - Yes.
0:24:11 > 0:24:15..all blitzed together to make a smooth paste ready for piping.
0:24:15 > 0:24:19They look very colourful, don't they?
0:24:19 > 0:24:21Really remarkably simple to do.
0:24:21 > 0:24:26Yes, and it's a nice little appetiser, isn't it?
0:24:26 > 0:24:30And in the spirit of real indulgence at Easter,
0:24:30 > 0:24:32she tops them with red salmon caviar.
0:24:34 > 0:24:37It looks the part, doesn't it? It looks lovely.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43Mmm...!
0:24:43 > 0:24:45That is a wonderful combination.
0:24:45 > 0:24:47I particularly like herring.
0:24:47 > 0:24:51The dill is coming through and it does taste...
0:24:51 > 0:24:53Pickled egg is nice and spicy.
0:24:53 > 0:24:56- It's delicious. Thank you very much. - Thank you.- Mmm!
0:24:58 > 0:25:01Those divine devilled eggs have given me an idea
0:25:01 > 0:25:03for a canape with a Russian twist,
0:25:03 > 0:25:07to break the Lenten fast at my Easter banquet.
0:25:10 > 0:25:14I'm going to use quails' eggs and herrings to set off my feast.
0:25:14 > 0:25:18Very simple recipe, but I think, really good.
0:25:19 > 0:25:23To begin with, I need a couple of slices of light rye bread.
0:25:23 > 0:25:26I've got some full-fat cream cheese, here,
0:25:26 > 0:25:29and I'm going to put some dill with it.
0:25:29 > 0:25:31Dill is one of my favourite herbs
0:25:31 > 0:25:35and it goes exceedingly well with herring.
0:25:37 > 0:25:38So if we just chop that up...
0:25:40 > 0:25:42Add the chopped dill to the cream cheese,
0:25:42 > 0:25:44then a splash of lemon juice
0:25:44 > 0:25:46and some black pepper.
0:25:47 > 0:25:51A little salt, cos the herrings will be quite salty,
0:25:51 > 0:25:53and then just mash it down.
0:25:56 > 0:26:00Once mixed, spread each canape with the cream cheese.
0:26:00 > 0:26:01Good thing about these
0:26:01 > 0:26:04is that you can do them several hours ahead,
0:26:04 > 0:26:08because if you're preparing for a feast, like I'm doing,
0:26:08 > 0:26:11I want to do as much as I can ahead.
0:26:12 > 0:26:16So, for the quails' eggs, you cook them just under three minutes,
0:26:16 > 0:26:18and that will have a firm yolk in the middle,
0:26:18 > 0:26:19cos I'm cutting them in half.
0:26:19 > 0:26:23Once they are boiled, put them straight in cold water,
0:26:23 > 0:26:25and as soon as you can handle them, peel them,
0:26:25 > 0:26:27cos it's much easier to get the shell off.
0:26:28 > 0:26:30Cut each one into four,
0:26:30 > 0:26:33so a quarter of the egg tops each canape.
0:26:33 > 0:26:37Now, to complement Karina's eggs, I'm using herring, too.
0:26:38 > 0:26:42You want bite-sized pieces placed on top of each square,
0:26:42 > 0:26:44then a touch of cream cheese on the top of the herring
0:26:44 > 0:26:48to help those little quails' eggs stay put.
0:26:48 > 0:26:50So it's good for our feast
0:26:50 > 0:26:54to serve eggs in all different forms.
0:26:54 > 0:26:56It takes little or no time to do.
0:26:57 > 0:26:59I'm rather proud of those -
0:26:59 > 0:27:02a little bit of Russian Easter inspiration
0:27:02 > 0:27:03for my guests at the feast.
0:27:06 > 0:27:07Mmm...
0:27:07 > 0:27:11Every element of that goes well together.
0:27:11 > 0:27:15The rich cream cheese, then you get the flavoursome herring,
0:27:15 > 0:27:17and the dainty little egg on top.
0:27:17 > 0:27:19I think you're going to enjoy those.
0:27:19 > 0:27:21Please make them. Mmm!
0:27:21 > 0:27:25SLAVONIC CHORAL SINGING
0:27:27 > 0:27:30I want to take the Russian theme in my banquet a bit further.
0:27:30 > 0:27:33I think the Russians have got it spot-on
0:27:33 > 0:27:35when it comes to the idea of Lenten fasting,
0:27:35 > 0:27:38followed by Easter feasting.
0:27:39 > 0:27:44There's been a Russian Orthodox community in Britain for 300 years.
0:27:44 > 0:27:46Their Easter falls later than ours,
0:27:46 > 0:27:49as they follow the old Julian calendar,
0:27:49 > 0:27:51used in Roman times.
0:27:51 > 0:27:53- Good morning, Mary.- Good morning. - Father Peter.
0:27:53 > 0:27:55I better shut the door, it's pretty blowy out there.
0:27:55 > 0:27:59I've never been inside a Russian Orthodox church
0:27:59 > 0:28:02and I'm hoping Father Peter will enlighten me.
0:28:02 > 0:28:06Father Peter, tell me about the Orthodox Russian faith
0:28:06 > 0:28:09on the lead-up to Easter.
0:28:09 > 0:28:14Our Lent starts on what we call Forgiveness Sunday.
0:28:14 > 0:28:18We start the fast, which is a vegan fast,
0:28:18 > 0:28:23and this continues right the way up into Holy Week,
0:28:23 > 0:28:27when the fast is more intense, because on Good Friday,
0:28:27 > 0:28:30there's a total abstinence from all food.
0:28:30 > 0:28:35For the Orthodox church, the culmination of Holy Week
0:28:35 > 0:28:38is the evening service on Holy Saturday -
0:28:38 > 0:28:42late at night, the congregation stands outside,
0:28:42 > 0:28:47in the dark, and just after midnight, Easter begins.
0:28:47 > 0:28:51The priest will say, "Let God arise, let his enemies be scattered",
0:28:51 > 0:28:54and then we declare, "Christ is risen",
0:28:54 > 0:28:56which is the joy of...the Paskha joy,
0:28:56 > 0:29:00and the doors will be flung open and all the candles will be burning,
0:29:00 > 0:29:04and then that will finish at around about three to half past three.
0:29:04 > 0:29:07- In the morning?- In the morning.- Oh!
0:29:07 > 0:29:09- So they come as families and children.- Yes.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12So, the children, do they have a little sleep in a corner, or...?
0:29:12 > 0:29:15Some do, some are backwards and forwards
0:29:15 > 0:29:17and looking to see what's going on.
0:29:17 > 0:29:20But the wonderful thing is, after the Easter service,
0:29:20 > 0:29:24we have the meal, the common meal, which we share together,
0:29:24 > 0:29:28- with wine and vodka... - Oh!- ..and the toasts,
0:29:28 > 0:29:30and we can eat and drink everything
0:29:30 > 0:29:34that we've been denied for the last six to eight weeks beforehand.
0:29:34 > 0:29:38- What an exciting time that must be. - It's very good.
0:29:38 > 0:29:39HE LAUGHS
0:29:39 > 0:29:44The most important dishes for this Easter breakfast are the desserts -
0:29:44 > 0:29:48paskha, a kind of cheesecake,
0:29:48 > 0:29:51and kulich, which is a bit like panettone.
0:29:51 > 0:29:56These specialities are blessed by the priest on Holy Saturday,
0:29:56 > 0:29:58but they're prepared two days before.
0:30:00 > 0:30:03Behind the scenes of the church are a group of ladies called
0:30:03 > 0:30:07the Sisterhood of Saint Xenia, who keep the place running.
0:30:07 > 0:30:11Vera and Tanya are making paskha, ready for the Easter breakfast.
0:30:11 > 0:30:13It's very important for Russian tradition.
0:30:13 > 0:30:16It's a very old tradition, obviously.
0:30:16 > 0:30:21Every family in Russia will have, at the table, this cheesecake.
0:30:21 > 0:30:25Paskha is a mixture of rich ricotta cheese,
0:30:25 > 0:30:27butter, eggs and cream.
0:30:27 > 0:30:32It's deliciously indulgent after weeks of fasting.
0:30:32 > 0:30:36Before Easter, we have 40 days' Lent,
0:30:36 > 0:30:40and all the ingredients they include in the Easter cake,
0:30:40 > 0:30:43actually, the main ingredients -
0:30:43 > 0:30:47the cheese, the butter, the eggs -
0:30:47 > 0:30:49they're not allowed during Lent.
0:30:49 > 0:30:53- We're not eating them. - Only vegetables...
0:30:55 > 0:30:56- Potatoes.- Yeah.
0:30:56 > 0:31:01In goes sugar, candied fruit, nuts, raisins and blueberries.
0:31:01 > 0:31:04It's going to be quite a shock after the blandness of Lent.
0:31:06 > 0:31:09It's quite difficult, after Lent, to start rich food.
0:31:09 > 0:31:12Usually, you just try a little bit and say, "Oh, no, I'm full."
0:31:12 > 0:31:14"I'm full" - yeah!
0:31:14 > 0:31:18The paskha mix goes into the mould to be set overnight
0:31:18 > 0:31:23on what the Orthodox community calls "Clean Thursday".
0:31:23 > 0:31:27Clean Thursday is the day before Good Friday.
0:31:27 > 0:31:32A...special time for us to prepare for Eastertime,
0:31:32 > 0:31:36and people cleaning around their houses
0:31:36 > 0:31:41and try and make themselves ready for Eastertime.
0:31:41 > 0:31:45It's a day of quietness and prayer as they prepare the paskha.
0:31:45 > 0:31:50SHE PRAYS IN RUSSIAN
0:31:53 > 0:31:56When the paskha comes out of the mould,
0:31:56 > 0:31:59on one side is the Orthodox cross.
0:31:59 > 0:32:02On the other, the letters "XB",
0:32:02 > 0:32:04which stands for the Easter greeting
0:32:04 > 0:32:05"Christ is risen".
0:32:09 > 0:32:12The paskha now is ready for blessing.
0:32:12 > 0:32:16Everyone should enjoy this meal
0:32:16 > 0:32:17after the long Lent.
0:32:18 > 0:32:23It really, really does mean something for the Orthodox church.
0:32:26 > 0:32:30I think there's a lesson to be learnt about this Clean Thursday.
0:32:30 > 0:32:32The Russian ladies have got the right idea -
0:32:32 > 0:32:36do everything ahead, and then you've got time
0:32:36 > 0:32:40to be with the family and enjoy all the Easter festivities.
0:32:43 > 0:32:48One dish I always prepare in advance is my apple frangipane tart -
0:32:48 > 0:32:52a simple but tasty recipe that I'm sure will go down a treat,
0:32:52 > 0:32:55whether you've been fasting or not.
0:32:58 > 0:33:01So first of all, I'm going to make the case.
0:33:01 > 0:33:04I've got a tin here.
0:33:04 > 0:33:07I'm going to do a very simple crust.
0:33:07 > 0:33:09I'm not making pastry - this is far quicker.
0:33:11 > 0:33:16So, I've got 175g of digestive biscuits
0:33:16 > 0:33:20and I'm going to crush those and add them to melted butter.
0:33:20 > 0:33:23Slip the biscuits into a reusable bag,
0:33:23 > 0:33:25making sure it's sealed.
0:33:25 > 0:33:28And then just press that down and get a rolling pin
0:33:28 > 0:33:30and give it a bash.
0:33:30 > 0:33:32If you've got any thoughts of getting rid of something
0:33:32 > 0:33:34out of your system, now is the time.
0:33:42 > 0:33:45And then just shake down the bag, and on again,
0:33:45 > 0:33:48cos you don't want any big pieces of biscuit in it.
0:33:50 > 0:33:51That's just perfect.
0:33:51 > 0:33:57Melt the butter over a warm heat and stir.
0:33:57 > 0:34:00That's it - then tip in all the crumbs...
0:34:04 > 0:34:06..and just stir it till it's well mixed.
0:34:10 > 0:34:13All well coated with the butter.
0:34:13 > 0:34:17So the next move is to just tip the whole lot in here.
0:34:23 > 0:34:24Flatten down into a base.
0:34:26 > 0:34:28Then pop into the fridge to set firm.
0:34:32 > 0:34:35I'll now get on with the frangipane filling.
0:34:35 > 0:34:38I'm adding 75g of softened butter
0:34:38 > 0:34:42and the same amount of castor sugar into a food processor.
0:34:42 > 0:34:44So I'll pop that on like that.
0:34:48 > 0:34:51So that's softened in there.
0:34:51 > 0:34:56Then add 75g of ground almonds,
0:34:56 > 0:35:00two eggs, and one teaspoon of almond extract.
0:35:01 > 0:35:06Then on with the lid again, until everything's mixed together.
0:35:09 > 0:35:13So that's the filling made. Couldn't be much easier.
0:35:15 > 0:35:18Now peel an apple. I use a Bramley for extra sharpness.
0:35:20 > 0:35:24I'm going to put the apple at the base of the tart.
0:35:25 > 0:35:28You don't have to keep it a perfect shape,
0:35:28 > 0:35:30because it is hidden by the frangipane.
0:35:30 > 0:35:34The important thing is to have thin slices.
0:35:39 > 0:35:41You'll notice I'm not as fast as the chefs,
0:35:41 > 0:35:43but I have got all my fingers.
0:35:44 > 0:35:47The base has chilled and set in the fridge,
0:35:47 > 0:35:48so now it's ready to fill.
0:35:50 > 0:35:52And I'm going to take the apples.
0:35:52 > 0:35:55You've just got to get an even layer of the apple.
0:35:55 > 0:35:57Don't hang about, because it'll go brown.
0:35:57 > 0:36:00Best peel it just before you put it in the tart.
0:36:02 > 0:36:04Right - now, can you see?
0:36:04 > 0:36:08It's sort of like a runny whipped cream consistency.
0:36:09 > 0:36:14I want to get every scrap out of here, because it's so good.
0:36:14 > 0:36:15That's it.
0:36:15 > 0:36:18Right, spread it over.
0:36:18 > 0:36:20And it should come right to the top
0:36:20 > 0:36:22of the crumb crust.
0:36:28 > 0:36:30So, flaked almonds on the top.
0:36:30 > 0:36:32The reason why I like a lot
0:36:32 > 0:36:34of almonds on the top of here
0:36:34 > 0:36:37is that you have a sort of crunchy layer to go through.
0:36:41 > 0:36:45It'll take about 25 minutes to cook at 180 fan.
0:36:52 > 0:36:54Once it's cooled,
0:36:54 > 0:36:58I like to finish it off with a light dusting of icing sugar.
0:36:58 > 0:37:02This is a perfect Easter pud, simple to make
0:37:02 > 0:37:07and full of sweetness that we can finally enjoy after a long Lent.
0:37:16 > 0:37:18One of the joys of Easter
0:37:18 > 0:37:21is that it falls just as the sun returns at last,
0:37:21 > 0:37:24after a long winter absence.
0:37:28 > 0:37:32It's the perfect time for my Easter feast to celebrate spring.
0:37:35 > 0:37:38I'm visiting a Polish family in Cambridgeshire,
0:37:38 > 0:37:42whose Catholic traditions are full of new life and new hope.
0:37:42 > 0:37:43Hi, Mary.
0:37:43 > 0:37:45- Damian?- Hi, yes.- Hello.
0:37:45 > 0:37:47- Terribly breezy out there. - It is indeed, yes.
0:37:47 > 0:37:51They're in full swing, preparing for Easter,
0:37:51 > 0:37:56and I'm sure I'm going to find inspiration for my banquet.
0:37:56 > 0:37:58This certainly is a hive of activity.
0:37:58 > 0:38:01Everything is ready for...preparing for Easter.
0:38:01 > 0:38:02It is, indeed.
0:38:02 > 0:38:04In Poland, families are immensely proud
0:38:04 > 0:38:07of the basket of Easter specialities
0:38:07 > 0:38:10which they take to church to be blessed on Holy Saturday,
0:38:10 > 0:38:14and the community here carry on the same custom.
0:38:14 > 0:38:19This basket is quite a tradition for Easter Saturday.
0:38:19 > 0:38:22And is this...? This is olive, is it?
0:38:22 > 0:38:23Yes, it is olive.
0:38:23 > 0:38:26It's a symbol of growing and new life.
0:38:26 > 0:38:31'Decorated eggs are integral to the Easter basket.'
0:38:31 > 0:38:35Let me have a look. Did you scratch all that?
0:38:35 > 0:38:37It's a bit like battlements, isn't it?
0:38:37 > 0:38:39It's like a castle.
0:38:39 > 0:38:43And what a lovely way to involve all the family.
0:38:43 > 0:38:46So what do I have to do? Hold it really firm?
0:38:46 > 0:38:47Goodness gracious me!
0:38:47 > 0:38:51You need a lot of pressure, and I'm doing, working really...
0:38:51 > 0:38:55That's all as far as I've got. I do the two sides, do I?
0:38:56 > 0:38:59The traditional Easter game of tapping eggs
0:38:59 > 0:39:02is all about whose will crack first.
0:39:02 > 0:39:03I'm a bit of a champion.
0:39:04 > 0:39:08- That's...- Mine is cracked! - Yours is cracked. I am the winner!
0:39:08 > 0:39:10Yay! Bravo.
0:39:10 > 0:39:13The two winners ought to play each other.
0:39:13 > 0:39:14Shall we?
0:39:14 > 0:39:16Go and get your egg, come on.
0:39:18 > 0:39:21- This is the final.- That's the final.
0:39:21 > 0:39:22I'm holding mine firmly.
0:39:22 > 0:39:24CRACKING
0:39:24 > 0:39:26Oh...
0:39:26 > 0:39:28I don't mind, you can be the winner.
0:39:28 > 0:39:31HE LAUGHS
0:39:31 > 0:39:33Alongside the eggs in the basket
0:39:33 > 0:39:37are other typical Polish foods to be shared on Easter Sunday.
0:39:37 > 0:39:40We're going to have traditional white sausage.
0:39:40 > 0:39:41We have also horseradish.
0:39:41 > 0:39:45We have a little bit of salt, so all the food gets seasoned.
0:39:45 > 0:39:49Pepper, and we also have our cake, which is the Polish babka.
0:39:49 > 0:39:52"Babka" - sounds like a baby. What is it, babka?
0:39:52 > 0:39:55OK, so, babka is a traditional Easter cake.
0:39:55 > 0:39:57Let me show you.
0:39:57 > 0:39:59- Oh, good, you've got one? - Yes, of course.- Oh...
0:39:59 > 0:40:01Already made, already made.
0:40:01 > 0:40:05Oh, I'm going to... I haven't seen one of these before.
0:40:05 > 0:40:07Goodness gracious, it's huge!
0:40:07 > 0:40:12Yes, indeed. So, basically, this is a similar way of making bread,
0:40:12 > 0:40:15but you're starting three days before.
0:40:15 > 0:40:18I always start this one on Wednesday.
0:40:18 > 0:40:20- It looks so exciting.- Thank you.
0:40:20 > 0:40:22Do you think you might come to my kitchen
0:40:22 > 0:40:23and show me how to do it?
0:40:23 > 0:40:26Of course, but get ready for hard work,
0:40:26 > 0:40:29because it takes a lot of time to prepare the dough.
0:40:29 > 0:40:30Oh, no, not hard work for me -
0:40:30 > 0:40:32- hard work for you. LAUGHING:- Of course!
0:40:32 > 0:40:34I will be in attendance.
0:40:34 > 0:40:38I'm dying to see how to make Damian's babka,
0:40:38 > 0:40:42which I think might just steal the show at my Easter feast.
0:40:42 > 0:40:44This looks a very big...
0:40:44 > 0:40:46Something's going to happen.
0:40:46 > 0:40:48I've never seen so much equipment.
0:40:48 > 0:40:52It's a long process, passed down through the generations.
0:40:52 > 0:40:56- So, we start with the butter. - Right.- So we're using 500g.
0:40:56 > 0:40:57And now the hard bit is coming -
0:40:57 > 0:41:01- basically, because we don't use the machines.- OK.
0:41:01 > 0:41:02We're using the hand.
0:41:02 > 0:41:04And it reminds me, in my house,
0:41:04 > 0:41:07when I was little, my mum was sitting on this little chair
0:41:07 > 0:41:10and just kept turning this butter like this, so, you know...
0:41:10 > 0:41:12And I was laughing, and I don't laugh any more,
0:41:12 > 0:41:14because I know how hard the job is.
0:41:14 > 0:41:18This is dedication - Damian churns the butter by hand
0:41:18 > 0:41:23for half an hour before zesting oranges and lemons.
0:41:23 > 0:41:26- "Babka"...what does it really mean? - Well, it's two different meanings.
0:41:26 > 0:41:29Babka is obviously the Easter cake, but also babka,
0:41:29 > 0:41:31you can call a lady a "babka".
0:41:31 > 0:41:34You can say to your grandma, you can say "babka",
0:41:34 > 0:41:36or when there's a nice lady walking on the street,
0:41:36 > 0:41:38you can say "Oh, there's a nice babka."
0:41:38 > 0:41:41- I think it's very charming. - There we go.
0:41:41 > 0:41:44Zest, lemon juice and vanilla go into the butter,
0:41:44 > 0:41:46to give the mixture its flavour.
0:41:48 > 0:41:50To begin the next stage of this rich dough,
0:41:50 > 0:41:53he needs eight egg yolks.
0:41:53 > 0:41:56Would you mind to give me a hand with the icing sugar?
0:41:56 > 0:41:57Right, certainly.
0:41:57 > 0:42:02This is 500g of icing sugar, and what do we want?
0:42:02 > 0:42:04We want to keep adding gradually.
0:42:04 > 0:42:07For me, this is a totally different kind of mixture -
0:42:07 > 0:42:10putting all this amount of icing sugar in one cake.
0:42:10 > 0:42:12It is quite, quite different.
0:42:12 > 0:42:14The whole method is different. I'm learning.
0:42:14 > 0:42:17There we go.
0:42:17 > 0:42:20OK - so once nice and smooth...
0:42:20 > 0:42:22There you go, very good.
0:42:22 > 0:42:27..we will mix the egg yolks with the butter.
0:42:27 > 0:42:29- So that goes in in one dollop on top.- Yeah, yeah.
0:42:29 > 0:42:32Damian doesn't stir the mixture together.
0:42:32 > 0:42:36He whisks it until it's beautifully smooth and shiny.
0:42:36 > 0:42:40Next, in goes the carefully sieved strong flour and baking powder.
0:42:40 > 0:42:46We will fold gently. We don't want to have any lumps.
0:42:46 > 0:42:48OK, so as you can see,
0:42:48 > 0:42:49this is nearly ready,
0:42:49 > 0:42:52and what we're going to do now, we're going to add the starter,
0:42:52 > 0:42:55- which we made three to four days before.- Right.
0:42:56 > 0:43:01A starter is used in the dough as a sort of natural yeast.
0:43:01 > 0:43:04I'm not sure if you know - the funny story about the starters
0:43:04 > 0:43:06and making the yeast at home,
0:43:06 > 0:43:09is when you're making it, you need to whisper.
0:43:09 > 0:43:12You cannot be too loud, because it's alive.
0:43:12 > 0:43:15When you put it in the oven, you need to still be quiet,
0:43:15 > 0:43:19because it could collapse, and this would be a disaster.
0:43:19 > 0:43:21- So we've got to be all very quiet here.- Absolutely.
0:43:21 > 0:43:24- Everybody around has to be really quiet...- Absolutely.
0:43:24 > 0:43:25..when it goes in the oven.
0:43:25 > 0:43:27Once that's very carefully mixed,
0:43:27 > 0:43:31we're at last at the final stage of the babka dough -
0:43:31 > 0:43:34whisking two egg whites by hand.
0:43:35 > 0:43:38This really is going back to Victorian times for me.
0:43:38 > 0:43:41I've never seen so much mixing by hand.
0:43:41 > 0:43:43And we do this once a year, you see, Mary -
0:43:43 > 0:43:45it's once a year, a little bit of exercise,
0:43:45 > 0:43:47keeping tradition, keeps Mum happy...
0:43:47 > 0:43:49Why not? Do it.
0:43:49 > 0:43:53I've got a sort of feeling that you're thinking about
0:43:53 > 0:43:56your grandmother, your mother, happy times in Poland.
0:43:56 > 0:43:59Absolutely - you see, we can talk about happy times,
0:43:59 > 0:44:00but also, I forgot to mention
0:44:00 > 0:44:03my grandma was in the concentration camp
0:44:03 > 0:44:05when she was 18, during the Second World War,
0:44:05 > 0:44:08and she was telling me stories about...
0:44:08 > 0:44:09She was living on potatoes.
0:44:09 > 0:44:11When they saw the bread, they prayed to the bread -
0:44:11 > 0:44:14they didn't see bread, they were eating only potatoes.
0:44:14 > 0:44:17So I remember, by now, she was telling me about those trains,
0:44:17 > 0:44:19she was in the trains, animal trains,
0:44:19 > 0:44:24locked down completely for months, so it's really, really good history.
0:44:24 > 0:44:26She survived - she passed away,
0:44:26 > 0:44:28but she passed away just a few years ago -
0:44:28 > 0:44:30and the...you know...
0:44:30 > 0:44:33- This all reminds me this. - Food is very important to you,
0:44:33 > 0:44:35and the history of the food.
0:44:35 > 0:44:38- Absolutely.- I bet your children will follow, just like you have.
0:44:38 > 0:44:40- They already do.- A sad time.
0:44:44 > 0:44:46Once the egg whites are folded in,
0:44:46 > 0:44:51this lovingly prepared dough is almost ready for the mould.
0:44:52 > 0:44:55Damian's full of clever tricks -
0:44:55 > 0:44:57the breadcrumbs will give a slight crust
0:44:57 > 0:45:01and help the babka release from its mould perfectly.
0:45:01 > 0:45:05We need to pour very...gently from this side...
0:45:05 > 0:45:07Wait a minute, you're forgetting - quietly.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10- (Yes, sorry.)- (Yes.) - That's me.
0:45:10 > 0:45:12- I'll turn it round, so it goes all the way.- Thank you.
0:45:12 > 0:45:14This is team spirit, here.
0:45:15 > 0:45:17This is really good.
0:45:18 > 0:45:22- So what we do, we want to add the swirls...- Swirl, yes.
0:45:22 > 0:45:25..inside, yes, absolutely, so we have nice marble inside.
0:45:25 > 0:45:31So...one...two...three.
0:45:31 > 0:45:35Damian's marble mix is simply a dollop of the dough
0:45:35 > 0:45:38combined with a little cocoa powder.
0:45:38 > 0:45:41And finally, we're ready for the baking -
0:45:41 > 0:45:46it goes in the oven at 160 fan for around 45 minutes.
0:45:46 > 0:45:49When it comes out, it's a full two-and-a-half hours' wait
0:45:49 > 0:45:52before the moment of truth.
0:45:52 > 0:45:55Here we go - that's the testing bit.
0:45:55 > 0:45:59Upside-down...Up...
0:45:59 > 0:46:01That's fine, got it.
0:46:05 > 0:46:06- Was that a wing and a prayer? - Yeah...
0:46:06 > 0:46:09Voila!
0:46:09 > 0:46:12That, to me, is sheer perfection.
0:46:12 > 0:46:14All the way round, here it is -
0:46:14 > 0:46:18look, every little bit is perfectly coloured.
0:46:18 > 0:46:20I reckon he's pretty proud of that.
0:46:20 > 0:46:22- I am.- I'm proud of you.
0:46:22 > 0:46:24Come on - let's get on with icing it.
0:46:27 > 0:46:29I love the way Damian ices it -
0:46:29 > 0:46:32one side is melted dark chocolate,
0:46:32 > 0:46:36with a clever dash of olive oil so it keeps the sheen,
0:46:36 > 0:46:37topped with crushed nuts.
0:46:39 > 0:46:40So that's half the job done.
0:46:40 > 0:46:46The other, a mix of icing sugar, lemon juice and candied fruit,
0:46:46 > 0:46:47creating the most beautiful finish.
0:46:49 > 0:46:51Do you know, I think that looks so original,
0:46:51 > 0:46:53something quite, quite different.
0:46:53 > 0:46:56Now, if you're making this for Easter,
0:46:56 > 0:46:59- would you finish it on Saturday? - Yes, of course.
0:46:59 > 0:47:02It will be finished on Saturday morning or Friday evening,
0:47:02 > 0:47:03because we go to church.
0:47:03 > 0:47:06Go to the church - and that fits in the top of the basket.
0:47:06 > 0:47:08Well, the basket is already full with food,
0:47:08 > 0:47:10so we cut a little piece of the babka...
0:47:10 > 0:47:13- Ah. - ..and on Sunday, we share,
0:47:13 > 0:47:15all of us, with this little piece -
0:47:15 > 0:47:17the whole family, four of us, small family -
0:47:17 > 0:47:20we share with the blessed babka.
0:47:22 > 0:47:25I'm enchanted by everything about this cake.
0:47:25 > 0:47:27It's a wonderful tradition,
0:47:27 > 0:47:30and the perfect addition to my Easter feast.
0:47:30 > 0:47:34I'm relieved I don't have to wait until then to try it.
0:47:34 > 0:47:35- Mmm!- That's for you.
0:47:35 > 0:47:36Want me to cut a piece?
0:47:36 > 0:47:38Now, I'm just looking -
0:47:38 > 0:47:40it has a lovely, light crust
0:47:40 > 0:47:43where that crumb is round the outside,
0:47:43 > 0:47:45and a good layer of icing.
0:47:45 > 0:47:47It's taken you an age to make,
0:47:47 > 0:47:49but I think it's going to be worth it.
0:47:49 > 0:47:52- Absolutely.- I'm going to have a little bit of it.
0:47:52 > 0:47:54There we go.
0:47:54 > 0:47:56Going to get a little bit of everything.
0:47:56 > 0:47:58Really good. Enjoy, Mary.
0:48:01 > 0:48:03It's absolutely beautiful.
0:48:03 > 0:48:05And, of course, it has a high proportion of butter in,
0:48:05 > 0:48:08so it will keep well, is that right?
0:48:08 > 0:48:10Absolutely, and it's very, very healthy as well!
0:48:10 > 0:48:12I beg your pardon?
0:48:12 > 0:48:14I think you can leave off the health,
0:48:14 > 0:48:18but it's only once a year we have Easter Sunday,
0:48:18 > 0:48:21so it's just a joy, thank you very much.
0:48:21 > 0:48:25My pleasure. Enjoy, Mary. Thank you very much for having me here.
0:48:27 > 0:48:31It's very emotional, listening to Damian talk about his family.
0:48:32 > 0:48:34Here we are.
0:48:34 > 0:48:37'For me, too, the lead-up to Easter is a time full of happy memories,'
0:48:37 > 0:48:42from Easter holidays as a child in Bath,
0:48:42 > 0:48:45to when my own children were young.
0:48:45 > 0:48:48It's lovely to see all the spring flowers.
0:48:48 > 0:48:49Can you see any snowdrops?
0:48:49 > 0:48:52'But for our family, it's also a time of sadness,
0:48:52 > 0:48:55'when we remember the loss of our son William,
0:48:55 > 0:48:59'27 years ago, when he was just 19 years old.'
0:49:00 > 0:49:01Now, there's Will - you see?
0:49:01 > 0:49:04William's got lots of snowdrops around him.
0:49:04 > 0:49:06I think it's about time we changed those flowers.
0:49:06 > 0:49:11Can you take off those? The pansies have got caught by the frost.
0:49:11 > 0:49:15- And we'll take those home. - There we go.- And...
0:49:15 > 0:49:18Let's put the primroses on. There we are.
0:49:18 > 0:49:19'We renew our family bonds
0:49:19 > 0:49:23'as we come together with our children and grandchildren,
0:49:23 > 0:49:25'and this time of year,'
0:49:25 > 0:49:28one recipe seems to combine all my feelings about Easter,
0:49:28 > 0:49:32like Damian's babka does for him.
0:49:32 > 0:49:35Making it is an act of faith.
0:49:35 > 0:49:38There's one recipe that I always make at Easter,
0:49:38 > 0:49:40and it's simnel cake.
0:49:40 > 0:49:42I've made it ever since I got married.
0:49:42 > 0:49:45I can remember having it at home on Easter Sunday
0:49:45 > 0:49:49and Easter just wouldn't be Easter without it.
0:49:49 > 0:49:53And I want to make sure this cake turns out beautifully,
0:49:53 > 0:49:57because I'm taking it as a gift to someone rather special.
0:49:57 > 0:50:00So three eggs in the bowl.
0:50:00 > 0:50:03'Add 175g of soft butter,
0:50:03 > 0:50:06'and the same amounts of self-raising flour
0:50:06 > 0:50:09'and light muscovado sugar.'
0:50:09 > 0:50:13Two teaspoons of mixed spice.
0:50:13 > 0:50:15That'll make it taste of Easter.
0:50:15 > 0:50:19And 100g each of sultanas, dried apricots and cherries,
0:50:19 > 0:50:22that are quartered and washed first.
0:50:22 > 0:50:25So it's really colourful, this,
0:50:25 > 0:50:29and the little jewels of the cherries are lovely.
0:50:29 > 0:50:35'Lastly, add 50g of ground almonds and three tablespoonfuls of milk.'
0:50:35 > 0:50:40You could do this in a mixer, if you want to, on slow speed,
0:50:40 > 0:50:42because you don't want to break up the fruit,
0:50:42 > 0:50:46but the essential part of this, when you're weighing everything out,
0:50:46 > 0:50:50is to have the butter really soft.
0:50:50 > 0:50:52Otherwise, it won't mix evenly.
0:50:55 > 0:50:57So I'm going to put that to one side
0:50:57 > 0:51:00while I roll out my two disks of marzipan.
0:51:02 > 0:51:08Divide a 450g block of golden marzipan into thirds.
0:51:09 > 0:51:14And roll out one piece until it's the same size as your cake tin.
0:51:16 > 0:51:18And just trim round with a knife.
0:51:20 > 0:51:21So there it is -
0:51:21 > 0:51:23now that's ready to fill the tin.
0:51:23 > 0:51:27Put half in the bottom, like that.
0:51:27 > 0:51:30I'm going to just spread that around.
0:51:32 > 0:51:34And then slip in your marzipan disk -
0:51:34 > 0:51:38once baked, this will give your cake a wonderfully moist texture
0:51:38 > 0:51:41as the marzipan melts.
0:51:43 > 0:51:44In goes the top.
0:51:47 > 0:51:49And just level it off.
0:51:53 > 0:51:57Then bake for about two hours at 140 fan.
0:51:58 > 0:52:02Allow to cool for 15 minutes and then remove from the tin.
0:52:03 > 0:52:06I'll leave that while I get on with the decoration.
0:52:06 > 0:52:10I've already rolled out the actual top.
0:52:10 > 0:52:15I'm now going to roll out the balls that are part of the decoration.
0:52:15 > 0:52:20There is something symbolic about this cake. There are 12 disciples.
0:52:20 > 0:52:23Judas was the traitor, so he doesn't come on the cake,
0:52:23 > 0:52:27so we have 11 balls to decorate all round the cake.
0:52:33 > 0:52:36Once the balls are ready, brush the top of the cake
0:52:36 > 0:52:38with warm apricot jam,
0:52:38 > 0:52:42before covering with the top disk of marzipan.
0:52:44 > 0:52:48Make sure it's just hanging over a little, which it is,
0:52:48 > 0:52:52and then I'm going to pinch it, to flute it all the way round -
0:52:52 > 0:52:55imagine you're doing it like a steak and kidney pie.
0:53:03 > 0:53:06To glaze, brush the top of the cake with beaten egg
0:53:06 > 0:53:10before placing the balls on top.
0:53:10 > 0:53:11And to finish,
0:53:11 > 0:53:13I like to add a little nest
0:53:13 > 0:53:15made from leftover marzipan.
0:53:17 > 0:53:19And now for the final touches -
0:53:19 > 0:53:20I'm going to use a blowtorch,
0:53:20 > 0:53:24just to get it perfectly, sort of, speckly brown on top.
0:53:26 > 0:53:29Just to warn you, I haven't got a degree in blowtorching -
0:53:29 > 0:53:31this is only the second time I've used it.
0:53:31 > 0:53:34For years, I've been putting this under the grill
0:53:34 > 0:53:37to get it nice and brown,
0:53:37 > 0:53:40and I have succumbed to using a blowtorch.
0:53:42 > 0:53:45It's just to give the sort of...baked appearance.
0:53:47 > 0:53:49I think that's pretty good - if I go any further,
0:53:49 > 0:53:53I'm bound to burn it, and it's very important that I don't.
0:53:55 > 0:53:56Right, mission completed.
0:53:58 > 0:54:01A few more finishing touches and it'll be ready to go.
0:54:04 > 0:54:06I'm not going to have a taste now,
0:54:06 > 0:54:09because it's going to a very important destination,
0:54:09 > 0:54:12and it shouldn't arrive with a wedge out of it.
0:54:12 > 0:54:14So there it is, all ready.
0:54:19 > 0:54:21I'm off to Lambeth Palace
0:54:21 > 0:54:24to meet the head of the Church of England
0:54:24 > 0:54:26with my freshly baked simnel cake.
0:54:26 > 0:54:30There's nothing like tea with the Archbishop of Canterbury
0:54:30 > 0:54:32to put you on your very best behaviour.
0:54:33 > 0:54:38- Ah!- Hi, Mary. How lovely to see you. - Lovely to see you, Archbishop.
0:54:38 > 0:54:39Look what I've brought you.
0:54:39 > 0:54:42It looks absolutely wonderful - did you make it?
0:54:42 > 0:54:44- I made it.- You are amazing. - It's a classic.
0:54:44 > 0:54:46You are absolutely amazing.
0:54:46 > 0:54:49- Would you like to come in? - I think I would love to.
0:54:49 > 0:54:52- Right, we just lean on this... - Gosh, it's a heavy door, isn't it?
0:54:52 > 0:54:54It's a very heavy door, yes.
0:54:54 > 0:54:58Justin Welby's official residence may look rather resplendent,
0:54:58 > 0:55:00but it's also a family home.
0:55:00 > 0:55:04Everyone runs about and plays hide and seek and it's just huge fun.
0:55:04 > 0:55:06- It's such a privilege. - Are we going this way?- Yes.
0:55:08 > 0:55:12Now, I have been told that you're not a great fruitcake man...
0:55:12 > 0:55:15- But if you've made it, Mary, I think I...- You might have a go.
0:55:15 > 0:55:18I will certainly have a go. Now, do you want a cup of tea?
0:55:18 > 0:55:21- I'd love a cup of tea, thank you. - So would I.
0:55:26 > 0:55:28- There it is.- Oh, my goodness.
0:55:28 > 0:55:32You'd think it would be a line of marzipan,
0:55:32 > 0:55:34but it does actually melt.
0:55:34 > 0:55:37Thank you very, very much indeed.
0:55:38 > 0:55:41'I'm hoping the Archbishop will tell me
0:55:41 > 0:55:45'exactly what makes Easter so special for him.'
0:55:45 > 0:55:48What is the part of Easter that you like best?
0:55:48 > 0:55:49There's a wonderful moment,
0:55:49 > 0:55:53at the end of Evensong on Easter Sunday afternoon,
0:55:53 > 0:55:59and I go home, and we sit down and we have some cake
0:55:59 > 0:56:01and some tea with the family,
0:56:01 > 0:56:05and it's relishing the human contact,
0:56:05 > 0:56:08the love for one another, the security in one another,
0:56:08 > 0:56:11that is the gift of family,
0:56:11 > 0:56:15and I think that's one of my rejoicing moments.
0:56:15 > 0:56:18Yes, I think Easter Sunday is the highlight,
0:56:18 > 0:56:21because it's when the whole family...
0:56:21 > 0:56:24If they're coming to church at all throughout the year,
0:56:24 > 0:56:27it's so likely that they'll all come at Easter.
0:56:27 > 0:56:30It is a great moment of being together and, of course,
0:56:30 > 0:56:33it's the oldest celebration.
0:56:33 > 0:56:37It's the first thing that the earliest church did,
0:56:37 > 0:56:40was to celebrate the conquest of death.
0:56:40 > 0:56:43And I find - I mean, I know this is something we share,
0:56:43 > 0:56:46the experience of bereavement in a family -
0:56:46 > 0:56:50and when we get the family together, we're always conscious
0:56:50 > 0:56:54that we have five children with us, and there's one who's missing,
0:56:54 > 0:56:56who's not there.
0:56:56 > 0:56:57I know exactly what you mean,
0:56:57 > 0:57:01because you lost Johanna very, very tiny, wee,
0:57:01 > 0:57:04and William was a lot older - he was 19 -
0:57:04 > 0:57:08but Easter, when we're having our celebration lunch,
0:57:08 > 0:57:12- we all raise a glass to Will, and... - Absolutely, absolutely.
0:57:12 > 0:57:14..we don't quite have an empty seat for him, but you know,
0:57:14 > 0:57:17it's very good to remember, whether it's a child,
0:57:17 > 0:57:18- a husband, a wife... - Whoever it is.
0:57:18 > 0:57:21..an aunt - somebody dear to you.
0:57:21 > 0:57:24It's to suddenly bring it back and think, "We were lucky to have them."
0:57:24 > 0:57:28Oh, absolutely - to celebrate life, and to celebrate hope.
0:57:31 > 0:57:35Every year, when I come together with my family at Easter,
0:57:35 > 0:57:38we get the chance to enjoy each other's company,
0:57:38 > 0:57:41and to look forward to the year to come
0:57:41 > 0:57:43with our favourite Easter foods.
0:57:43 > 0:57:46Come on, then - who wants some?
0:57:46 > 0:57:49Are you hungry for Easter biscuits? Come on.
0:57:49 > 0:57:52'In this programme, I've been discovering new recipes
0:57:52 > 0:57:56'and ideas that will add fresh flavours
0:57:56 > 0:57:58'to my Easter celebration this year.'
0:58:00 > 0:58:02- Has everyone said thank you? - Thank you, Granny.
0:58:02 > 0:58:04And in the second programme in the series,
0:58:04 > 0:58:07I'll be continuing my search for Britain's
0:58:07 > 0:58:09most vibrant Easter traditions.
0:58:09 > 0:58:12- Did I say as much wine as that? - You said...
0:58:12 > 0:58:14It is going to be particularly good gravy!
0:58:14 > 0:58:16HE LAUGHS
0:58:16 > 0:58:20And I'll finally welcome everyone to my great Easter feast,
0:58:20 > 0:58:23where I gather together all the cooks and cooking
0:58:23 > 0:58:25that make this time special.
0:58:25 > 0:58:29So enjoy the feast. I promise you, there's plenty.