Surf and Turf

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0:00:11 > 0:00:16Traditionally, surf and turf is all about lobster and steak,

0:00:16 > 0:00:19but I prefer something a bit less extravagant.

0:00:19 > 0:00:23Surf and turf really does smack of hedonism.

0:00:23 > 0:00:26The most expensive piece of fish, most expensive piece of meat.

0:00:26 > 0:00:29But I've got something much more interesting than that.

0:00:29 > 0:00:32If you go to the other end of the fishmonger's slab,

0:00:32 > 0:00:35you find the cheap fish such as mackerel,

0:00:35 > 0:00:37especially smoked mackerel.

0:00:38 > 0:00:40Mackerel is my favourite fish

0:00:40 > 0:00:44and a great place to start exploring this perfect pairing.

0:00:44 > 0:00:48To keep this really simple, I want to make a classic salad

0:00:48 > 0:00:52that mixes the surfy fish with some turfy bacon.

0:00:52 > 0:00:55The base of my salad is a few boiled salad potatoes.

0:00:56 > 0:01:00Got these very beautiful, whole smoked mackerel.

0:01:00 > 0:01:04If I can't find these then I just buy mackerel fillets.

0:01:04 > 0:01:07It is just whatever is around and whatever is convenient.

0:01:07 > 0:01:09But the real joy of these

0:01:09 > 0:01:13is that the flesh stays really creamy and soft.

0:01:13 > 0:01:15Another reason I love buying smoked fish

0:01:15 > 0:01:18is that I don't even have to cook it.

0:01:18 > 0:01:21Part of the thing I love about this recipe

0:01:21 > 0:01:23is that it's exactly the opposite

0:01:23 > 0:01:26of what everybody thinks surf and turf is all about.

0:01:26 > 0:01:28It's a very humble salad.

0:01:28 > 0:01:31So that's the surf, and now I need the turf.

0:01:31 > 0:01:34And for that, I'm using streaky bacon.

0:01:35 > 0:01:39You can use smoked or unsmoked, streaky or back,

0:01:39 > 0:01:42you can even use pancetta if you wanted to.

0:01:44 > 0:01:47I like my bacon crisp,

0:01:47 > 0:01:49which gives me time to make a salad dressing.

0:01:49 > 0:01:54Nothing fancy, just one with a mild mustard base.

0:01:54 > 0:01:56Maybe a few capers -

0:01:56 > 0:02:00their salty bite feels like it fits in this dish.

0:02:02 > 0:02:05Capers really are one of those ingredients you have to check

0:02:05 > 0:02:06that everybody likes them.

0:02:06 > 0:02:09Because not everybody treats them as a friend.

0:02:09 > 0:02:14To the capers and mustard, a splash of white wine vinegar, pepper,

0:02:14 > 0:02:17and a generous glug of olive oil.

0:02:20 > 0:02:24Parsley is a really good herb to put with fish and bacon,

0:02:24 > 0:02:27but I'm actually going to use dill.

0:02:27 > 0:02:29I'll use dill because it works well with smoked fish.

0:02:35 > 0:02:38This salad needs the rustic quality of raw onion.

0:02:38 > 0:02:42But to soften the harshness, I'm soaking it in white wine vinegar.

0:02:42 > 0:02:46So I put the onion...

0:02:46 > 0:02:49into the dressing and it's very slightly softened,

0:02:49 > 0:02:51but that's not really the point.

0:02:51 > 0:02:55The point is to take away those very coarse top notes

0:02:55 > 0:02:58that actually, for me, can ruin a salad.

0:03:03 > 0:03:06Once the potatoes are soft to the point of a knife,

0:03:06 > 0:03:10they can be introduced to the dressing.

0:03:10 > 0:03:13I've left the skins on because I like the flavour

0:03:13 > 0:03:16of these very young potato skins,

0:03:16 > 0:03:19but if you want to peel them, then do.

0:03:19 > 0:03:22And then the whole lot goes in with my lovely mackerel.

0:03:26 > 0:03:31And finally, I can mix the meat to the fish.

0:03:31 > 0:03:32This salad will be great as it is,

0:03:32 > 0:03:37but a few snips of bacon will take it to a whole new level.

0:03:39 > 0:03:42The idea for bacon with mackerel came from something

0:03:42 > 0:03:47I had years ago in Scotland. I had a mackerel fried in bacon fat

0:03:47 > 0:03:50and it was so good, I never forgot it.

0:04:16 > 0:04:21That's delicious. For me, this is surf and turf at its best.

0:04:21 > 0:04:25You couldn't get further from a plate of lobster and steak,

0:04:25 > 0:04:28but I'd take this humble version any day of the week.

0:04:28 > 0:04:29It's cheaper, too.

0:04:44 > 0:04:46You know, I'm a city boy.

0:04:46 > 0:04:49I love the idea of living on an island.

0:04:49 > 0:04:51The fact we've got both of nature's larders -

0:04:51 > 0:04:54the land AND the sea - for inspiration.

0:04:54 > 0:04:58Some people are so jammy, they have both right on their doorstep.

0:05:04 > 0:05:07I used to go fishing with my father and he were very much a believer

0:05:07 > 0:05:10that if you catch it, you eat it.

0:05:10 > 0:05:13There's nothing better than actually catching your dinner,

0:05:13 > 0:05:14whichever way you do it.

0:05:16 > 0:05:19Ian Taylor is a fisherman.

0:05:19 > 0:05:21He and his crew mainly fish for sea bass,

0:05:21 > 0:05:24off the beautiful Weymouth Coast in Dorset.

0:05:25 > 0:05:26That's one now.

0:05:26 > 0:05:28HE LAUGHS

0:05:28 > 0:05:30Just reel this one in.

0:05:31 > 0:05:36But Ian's favourite ocean offering, by far, is scallops.

0:05:36 > 0:05:39I do a bit of scallop diving as well and you can't beat

0:05:39 > 0:05:42hand-caught scallops, really. They're the best in the world.

0:05:49 > 0:05:53Ian has invited me to come along to one of the crew's after-sail treats.

0:05:53 > 0:05:57He cooks scallops with chorizo right on the back of the boat.

0:05:57 > 0:06:01So it sounds like I'm in for a tasty lunch.

0:06:01 > 0:06:04First, the scallops have to be removed from their shells.

0:06:04 > 0:06:06What you do to open the scallop

0:06:06 > 0:06:09is you have the crown shape facing you.

0:06:09 > 0:06:13You've always got a slit in the side of the scallop

0:06:13 > 0:06:15so you push your knife in that way, where the slit is

0:06:15 > 0:06:17and just nick the muscle,

0:06:17 > 0:06:18and that opens the shell.

0:06:18 > 0:06:21Then pull the skirt off...

0:06:21 > 0:06:23Knife at the back,

0:06:23 > 0:06:26cut down to the bottom of the shell

0:06:26 > 0:06:28and then your scallop, underneath,

0:06:28 > 0:06:29and the whole thing comes out.

0:06:29 > 0:06:33You want to leave as much as you can in the shells.

0:06:33 > 0:06:36Then what you want to do is get rid of the intestine bit.

0:06:36 > 0:06:38You've got to be careful when you do that bit,

0:06:38 > 0:06:40otherwise you'll pull the roe off.

0:06:40 > 0:06:42I fall out with some professional chefs

0:06:42 > 0:06:45because they throw the roe away. But I like the coral.

0:06:45 > 0:06:47You're losing half the scallop.

0:06:47 > 0:06:49It tastes all right, it's good.

0:06:49 > 0:06:51My favourite bit.

0:06:51 > 0:06:53That's the cracking bit.

0:06:53 > 0:06:56And the beauty of fresh scallops is, if you really want to,

0:06:56 > 0:06:58you can eat them whole like that.

0:06:58 > 0:06:59Yeah?

0:06:59 > 0:07:02That was all right. There's a seagull eating that bit.

0:07:02 > 0:07:04Nothing's wasted at sea!

0:07:09 > 0:07:12Scallops aren't really your business, they're more for fun.

0:07:12 > 0:07:16Bass fishing and scuba-diving is my business.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19But as a by-product of the scuba-diving,

0:07:19 > 0:07:20we often get scallops to eat.

0:07:20 > 0:07:24I don't sell them, normally, we just eat them. I love scallops.

0:07:24 > 0:07:27We've eaten them in every way imaginable, really!

0:07:27 > 0:07:30We've curried them, done all sorts with them.

0:07:30 > 0:07:33I quite often have a scallop sandwich, which is literally,

0:07:33 > 0:07:37flour them, get the frying pan going with a bit of butter in it,

0:07:37 > 0:07:40fry them two or three minutes either side, and put them in a sandwich.

0:07:40 > 0:07:44- You see, if I did that, that'd cost me 20 quid.- Yeah, I know!

0:07:44 > 0:07:48Do you like the whole thing, that idea of eating meat with fish?

0:07:48 > 0:07:51Yes, it's a good combination, it works well.

0:07:51 > 0:07:54You get the different textures, the different flavours.

0:07:54 > 0:07:58The idea of having something that you've just caught

0:07:58 > 0:08:01and you just stick it in the pan and see what happens,

0:08:01 > 0:08:03that is my sort of cooking, really.

0:08:03 > 0:08:06This spicy sausage is the perfect partner for Ian's scallops.

0:08:06 > 0:08:09Chorizo in.

0:08:09 > 0:08:11Already, that smells fantastic.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13All those orangey juices.

0:08:13 > 0:08:15They'll leak out into the pan.

0:08:16 > 0:08:18Very nice.

0:08:21 > 0:08:22Ah, just smell that now!

0:08:26 > 0:08:27Put some of these in.

0:08:27 > 0:08:32And these really are flash-fried, aren't they?

0:08:32 > 0:08:36Yep, you don't want to overdo them. Couple or three minutes, that's it.

0:08:36 > 0:08:39You could eat them as they are now.

0:08:39 > 0:08:44You're not cooking them for any other reason than taste, really.

0:08:47 > 0:08:53I like to make sure the chorizo is actually cooked,

0:08:53 > 0:08:56if anything, overcooked, because it goes a bit crispy

0:08:56 > 0:08:59and you've got a crunch to it. And then the scallops are soft.

0:08:59 > 0:09:02Those tiny little things that make something great rather than good.

0:09:02 > 0:09:06Getting the textures right, getting the mixture of crisp and soft.

0:09:06 > 0:09:08These are going to be a bit spicy, aren't they?

0:09:08 > 0:09:12They should be a bit, yeah. A bit of chilli there.

0:09:12 > 0:09:15I love spice! I think they are near enough done.

0:09:15 > 0:09:17Just to finish it off,

0:09:17 > 0:09:21- just a bit of honey. - A bit of runny honey.

0:09:23 > 0:09:24Not too much.

0:09:27 > 0:09:30Isn't that beautiful?

0:09:32 > 0:09:36The shell finishes it off nicely as well.

0:09:36 > 0:09:42Yeah, too many of these ended up as ashtrays and...

0:09:42 > 0:09:44- and lampshades! - They're great for food.

0:09:44 > 0:09:47- Who wants some, then, lads? - Go on, then.

0:09:51 > 0:09:53Oh, my goodness.

0:09:56 > 0:09:59That is...that is such a treat.

0:09:59 > 0:10:01Yeah? Good.

0:10:03 > 0:10:05There's not too many flavours?

0:10:07 > 0:10:08No. There's not.

0:10:10 > 0:10:12It's spicy and it's sweet.

0:10:13 > 0:10:16I was scared when I saw you put the honey in.

0:10:16 > 0:10:20- I wanted to shout, "Stop."- What, put the honey in?- Yes, but I was wrong.

0:10:20 > 0:10:25- I was completely wrong because it's lovely.- Cracking, skipper.

0:10:25 > 0:10:27It really is, honestly.

0:10:27 > 0:10:31And anybody who isn't sure about surf and turf,

0:10:31 > 0:10:33this is the dish to give them, isn't it?

0:10:33 > 0:10:34This is... Yeah.

0:10:34 > 0:10:37It's extreme surf and turf.

0:10:37 > 0:10:40It is absolutely gorgeous.

0:10:48 > 0:10:50THUNDER BOOMS

0:10:57 > 0:10:59RAIN PATTERS

0:11:05 > 0:11:07The origins of the name surf and turf

0:11:07 > 0:11:10are really to do with lobster and steak.

0:11:10 > 0:11:16But the most useful meat when you're working with fish is pork.

0:11:16 > 0:11:22Parma ham will really bring out the sweetness of fish.

0:11:22 > 0:11:28So that is exactly what I am going to do with this really quick recipe,

0:11:28 > 0:11:31which starts off very simply with sage leaves

0:11:31 > 0:11:33and a couple of slices of Parma ham.

0:11:37 > 0:11:38I like to wrap...

0:11:40 > 0:11:44..a fish fillet, something like trout, in a little bit of bacon

0:11:44 > 0:11:46or a bit of Parma ham.

0:11:46 > 0:11:52What happens is that the fat in the ham or the bacon

0:11:52 > 0:11:56just melts a little, it bastes the fish as it cooks.

0:11:56 > 0:12:00And it sweetens it. Just roll up the fish fillet.

0:12:02 > 0:12:04A skewer will make sure my ham

0:12:04 > 0:12:10and its lovely juices cook snugly alongside the trout.

0:12:10 > 0:12:12So I'll pop that in the oven.

0:12:12 > 0:12:14About 15 or 20 minutes, we'll have a look.

0:12:16 > 0:12:19Some roughly chopped parsley

0:12:19 > 0:12:23and a squeeze of fresh lemon will season the dish beautifully.

0:12:31 > 0:12:35There's truly great smells on a rainy day.

0:12:35 > 0:12:38Something baking in the oven that's all buttery and lemony.

0:12:53 > 0:12:55And then these wonderful buttery juices.

0:12:55 > 0:12:58There's everything in there - lemon, butter, parsley,

0:12:58 > 0:13:00that bit of melted fat from the ham

0:13:00 > 0:13:03and, of course, the fish juices.

0:13:03 > 0:13:05All working together.

0:13:06 > 0:13:08And smelling wonderful.

0:13:14 > 0:13:18This dish works so well because of how the fish is cooked

0:13:18 > 0:13:22in all those lovely sweet and salty juices from the Parma ham.

0:13:22 > 0:13:25Cooking the fish alone just wouldn't give you

0:13:25 > 0:13:28the same utterly scrumptious results.

0:13:33 > 0:13:35As with everything in life,

0:13:35 > 0:13:39good cooking is all about getting the right balance.

0:13:39 > 0:13:42In the kitchen, how you juggle your ingredients

0:13:42 > 0:13:45can make the difference between a good supper and a great one.

0:13:45 > 0:13:49Flavours should complement each other, not overwhelm.

0:13:49 > 0:13:53There's one recipe I make that shows this off to perfection.

0:13:56 > 0:13:59The whole concept of meat and fish together

0:13:59 > 0:14:01is quite a big deal.

0:14:01 > 0:14:05Some people who probably just can't take it at all,

0:14:05 > 0:14:09but if you use the ingredients subtly...

0:14:10 > 0:14:14..you won't know they're there. There's a way of using fish,

0:14:14 > 0:14:16not as an ingredient, but as a seasoning.

0:14:16 > 0:14:18A sort of cook's secret.

0:14:18 > 0:14:22This is a magical recipe for those who aren't convinced

0:14:22 > 0:14:24by the surf and turf concept.

0:14:24 > 0:14:29You can't taste the fish, but it totally transforms the meat.

0:14:29 > 0:14:34At this recipe's heart is some good quality lamb shanks.

0:14:34 > 0:14:36I'm going to slow cook them in the oven.

0:14:36 > 0:14:39But first, they need browning over a high heat.

0:14:39 > 0:14:41MEAT SIZZLES

0:14:41 > 0:14:44I want all those crusty, tasty bits to stick to the pan

0:14:44 > 0:14:47because they're going to dissolve when I put the liquid in.

0:14:50 > 0:14:53A few roughly chopped onions

0:14:53 > 0:14:58and a sliced clove of garlic will give my sauce some body.

0:14:58 > 0:15:01This is where the first bit of the secret seasoning comes in.

0:15:01 > 0:15:06It's only a tiny ingredient but it packs a big punch.

0:15:06 > 0:15:09The surf part of this recipe is anchovy.

0:15:12 > 0:15:15For such a strongly flavoured ingredient,

0:15:15 > 0:15:17it's great that it can be used subtly as well.

0:15:17 > 0:15:20Nobody but the cook's going to know it's there.

0:15:25 > 0:15:28A sprig of rosemary and a couple of bay leaves

0:15:28 > 0:15:33will add a delicious earthiness to balance the rich lamb.

0:15:33 > 0:15:35I've got some stock.

0:15:35 > 0:15:37It can be any stock, really.

0:15:41 > 0:15:44There's so much flavour going on in there

0:15:44 > 0:15:46that it doesn't really matter what you use.

0:15:51 > 0:15:53And then some red wine.

0:15:53 > 0:15:59Just something that's lying around. Doesn't have to be your best bottle.

0:15:59 > 0:16:01And about the same quantity as stock.

0:16:01 > 0:16:05This won't cover the shanks, it will just come part of the way up.

0:16:05 > 0:16:07Because we're cooking with a lid on,

0:16:07 > 0:16:10it'll cook in the liquid and in its own steam.

0:16:13 > 0:16:17That goes into the oven for a good couple of hours,

0:16:17 > 0:16:19to let the meat get really tender

0:16:19 > 0:16:22and the ingredients develop and mellow.

0:16:35 > 0:16:38The anchovy's done wonderful things to the sauce.

0:16:38 > 0:16:41It's not like adding salt or pepper or lemon juice.

0:16:41 > 0:16:45It's a completely individual seasoning.

0:16:45 > 0:16:48But the wonderful thing is, you don't quite know what it is.

0:16:48 > 0:16:52All you know is it's added a depth and an intrigue to the sauce.

0:16:54 > 0:16:56I like to leave the shanks to rest

0:16:56 > 0:16:59so that the meat stays really juicy.

0:17:00 > 0:17:05It also gives me a chance to add a final seasoning to the sauce -

0:17:05 > 0:17:09a handful of fresh herbs and a few extra anchovies.

0:17:12 > 0:17:14Once that's simmering,

0:17:14 > 0:17:16take out the shanks.

0:17:21 > 0:17:25It's filling and it's hearty and it's not terribly expensive,

0:17:25 > 0:17:27and it comes with a secret.

0:17:29 > 0:17:32The meat comes off the bone very nicely.

0:17:41 > 0:17:45There's a real depth of flavour there,

0:17:45 > 0:17:49somehow it's as if the anchovy has boosted the flavour of the lamb.

0:17:49 > 0:17:52But you'd never know what the secret seasoning was.

0:17:52 > 0:17:55All you know is that it's absolutely delicious.

0:17:57 > 0:18:00You probably wouldn't think of this as surf and turf,

0:18:00 > 0:18:05but it's exactly the reason this dish works so well.

0:18:05 > 0:18:07The lamb is the main ingredient,

0:18:07 > 0:18:10but I reckon the anchovy is the real star here.

0:18:13 > 0:18:16Surf and turf.

0:18:16 > 0:18:19What a brilliantly simple, perfect pairing

0:18:19 > 0:18:22to inspire some truly fabulous dishes.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25Easy to adapt and make your own, too.

0:18:49 > 0:18:52Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd