0:00:27 > 0:00:31Ever since I was a kid, I've loved apple tart.
0:00:31 > 0:00:34My dad used to bring them home from the baker's on a Saturday morning.
0:00:34 > 0:00:37It's a lovely way to end a meal.
0:00:38 > 0:00:42Very often, though, they can be a bit too much after a big meal.
0:00:42 > 0:00:46So I end up having an apple and a piece of cheese.
0:00:46 > 0:00:49It occurred to me recently that, actually,
0:00:49 > 0:00:51I could have the best of both worlds.
0:00:51 > 0:00:55'And that comes in the form of a classic sweet apple tart
0:00:55 > 0:00:59'with a bit of a twist, a savoury pastry - a fab mid-week treat.'
0:00:59 > 0:01:03Making pastry by hand just gives me such pleasure.
0:01:03 > 0:01:06It's that whole tactile thing.
0:01:06 > 0:01:08The hands in soft flour.
0:01:09 > 0:01:11Don't think about food as just an end product.
0:01:11 > 0:01:15You should have some pleasure while you're getting there.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18'My pastry starts off with the usual ingredients -
0:01:18 > 0:01:23'300 grams of plain flour, and half that weight in unsalted butter
0:01:23 > 0:01:26'and two egg yolks to bind it all together.'
0:01:26 > 0:01:28A little bit of beaten egg in there.
0:01:29 > 0:01:35'This is where I go a bit free-style and chuck in some cheese.'
0:01:35 > 0:01:38I'll use a very hard cheese with quite a deep flavour.
0:01:38 > 0:01:42You can use Parmesan or one of our hard English cheeses as well.
0:01:42 > 0:01:44They can be very, very good.
0:01:44 > 0:01:48'It's your call how much cheese you put in, depending on
0:01:48 > 0:01:52'how savoury you want the end result.'
0:01:52 > 0:01:55Don't worry about the shape, it can be any shape you want.
0:01:55 > 0:01:58This isn't professional French patisserie,
0:01:58 > 0:02:00this is a big tart for tea.
0:02:03 > 0:02:07'All pastry likes to rest before it goes in the oven.'
0:02:08 > 0:02:10There is this very strict idea
0:02:10 > 0:02:12that there are cooking apples and eating apples.
0:02:12 > 0:02:16I don't agree with it at all. You can cook with ANY apple.
0:02:16 > 0:02:18What you get is a very different texture.
0:02:18 > 0:02:22'I'm using some crisp Coxes today. Don't bother peeling,
0:02:22 > 0:02:25'this is as rustic as they come.'
0:02:25 > 0:02:29Fantastic for a late picnic.
0:02:29 > 0:02:31When the weather's just started to get cold enough
0:02:31 > 0:02:35that you want to put your favourite thick pullover on and go outside.
0:02:38 > 0:02:42'Soften the apples, add cinnamon for spice
0:02:42 > 0:02:44'and a couple of cloves.'
0:02:44 > 0:02:48It's a very strong flavour. You've got to be quite careful with cloves.
0:02:53 > 0:02:57'My pastry's had a rest.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01'So it's just a case of sliding in the apples and building a wall
0:03:01 > 0:03:03'to hold everything in.
0:03:06 > 0:03:08'A lick of milk and egg yolk and a sprinkling of cheese
0:03:08 > 0:03:11'will add a golden glaze as it bakes
0:03:11 > 0:03:14'for around 30-40 minutes.'
0:03:19 > 0:03:22Very different from the apple tart
0:03:22 > 0:03:25my father used to bring back from the baker's.
0:03:26 > 0:03:30It smells sweet and it smells savoury at the same time.
0:03:30 > 0:03:34Quite crisp pastry.
0:03:36 > 0:03:39And then really quite soft and luscious apples inside.
0:03:42 > 0:03:46I want something on this, but cream would be wrong.
0:03:46 > 0:03:52I want something sharper to go with the sweet apples and the cheese,
0:03:52 > 0:03:54so creme fraiche would be a good idea.
0:03:54 > 0:03:58Or a very thick natural yogurt maybe.
0:04:14 > 0:04:18That wonderful thing of something so familiar
0:04:18 > 0:04:21and yet so different at the same time.
0:04:22 > 0:04:27I know this well, but it's got a whole new feel to it.
0:04:28 > 0:04:30It's extraordinarily good.
0:04:35 > 0:04:38'Try adding a bit of cheese next time you do an apple tart.
0:04:38 > 0:04:41'Who needs a pud and a cheese board?!'
0:04:53 > 0:04:55You know, it's funny that we've stayed
0:04:55 > 0:04:57with the same few varieties of fish
0:04:57 > 0:05:00when there are so many around. Here in these waters
0:05:00 > 0:05:02in Cornwall, where I used to live,
0:05:02 > 0:05:05there's an amazing variety.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07A whole world of things out there
0:05:07 > 0:05:09that we just don't use and we don't think of.
0:05:09 > 0:05:12We really should.
0:05:18 > 0:05:20'More than 40 varieties of fish
0:05:20 > 0:05:22'are caught in these waters every day.
0:05:22 > 0:05:26'But because most of us don't know our coley from our cod,
0:05:26 > 0:05:28'the majority gets exported.
0:05:28 > 0:05:31'If only we tried something new occasionally.
0:05:31 > 0:05:34'I think our taste buds would thank us.'
0:05:34 > 0:05:37We really need to be more adventurous and less timid,
0:05:37 > 0:05:38and we need to look at fish.
0:05:38 > 0:05:41Sometimes it might not be the prettiest fish, it might be ugly
0:05:41 > 0:05:44with the head on, but the taste could be fantastic
0:05:44 > 0:05:47and we don't know sometimes what we're missing out on.
0:05:47 > 0:05:52210 on the big haddock. 210. 220.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54'Nathan has been fishing since he was 14
0:05:54 > 0:05:59and reckons there are plenty of new varieties we could be enjoying.
0:05:59 > 0:06:01We've got some lovely gurnards here.
0:06:01 > 0:06:03Gurnards, 20 years ago, were being thrown away.
0:06:03 > 0:06:07They were used for crab pot bait. Really trendy.
0:06:07 > 0:06:09They're in restaurants - the next big thing.
0:06:09 > 0:06:11Of course, we've got the megrim sole there.
0:06:11 > 0:06:15And the megrim sole is the biggest secret, if you like, of Cornwall.
0:06:15 > 0:06:20This is, by value and by volume, the largest species landed in Cornwall.
0:06:20 > 0:06:2490-95% of megrim sole gets exported to Spain,
0:06:24 > 0:06:28so we really don't know what we're missing out on. And here we are.
0:06:28 > 0:06:30We've got lovely mackerel here. These are super fresh.
0:06:30 > 0:06:33Just caught this morning. So you can just take that home,
0:06:33 > 0:06:35fillet it off and that will be
0:06:35 > 0:06:38a fantastic dinner really. Mackerel's probably one of the most
0:06:38 > 0:06:41underrated fish in the sea but you've got to eat it fresh.
0:06:43 > 0:06:46'Neither are we very adventurous about the way we cook it.
0:06:46 > 0:06:49'Fresh mackerel is definitely one of my all-time favourites.
0:06:49 > 0:06:52'Don't get me wrong, I love it plainly grilled,
0:06:52 > 0:06:55'but some people find it too fishy.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59'So I can't resist giving it an entirely different flavour.'
0:07:01 > 0:07:04Out of all of the flavours that I like to use with fish,
0:07:04 > 0:07:08particularly with mackerel, lemon grass is one of the very best.
0:07:09 > 0:07:14Immediately I'm getting these great wafts of citrus coming up.
0:07:14 > 0:07:16And it's not quite lemon and it's not quite lime.
0:07:16 > 0:07:18It's just got a quality all of its own.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24'A few spring onions and chilli
0:07:24 > 0:07:26'will go with perfectly with this, too.'
0:07:26 > 0:07:27What I'm making is a seasoning
0:07:27 > 0:07:29to go on top of the fish fillets.
0:07:30 > 0:07:33This is part of the joy of good old mackerel
0:07:33 > 0:07:36because it loves all these big flavours.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41You get a bit of heat with fresh ginger, but it's really...
0:07:41 > 0:07:44more aromatic than hot.
0:07:45 > 0:07:49I don't mind when I finish work,
0:07:49 > 0:07:52just standing in the kitchen with a sharp knife and a chopping board
0:07:52 > 0:07:55and just knocking a few ingredients into shape.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58I find it quite relaxing, actually.
0:07:58 > 0:08:03Straightaway those amazing smells just come up into the kitchen.
0:08:03 > 0:08:05It's like whack! It's fantastic.
0:08:05 > 0:08:08Whenever I think of these flavours - ginger and chilli
0:08:08 > 0:08:11and spring onion - I think of limes rather than lemons.
0:08:11 > 0:08:13And these limes are beautiful.
0:08:13 > 0:08:15They're really ripe and yellow.
0:08:15 > 0:08:20'I'm combining their juice with a few tablespoons of fish sauce
0:08:20 > 0:08:22'for a salty mellowness.
0:08:23 > 0:08:27'And a sprinkling of sugar helps balance these strong flavours.'
0:08:28 > 0:08:30I'm just going to quickly grill...
0:08:32 > 0:08:34..these fillets of mackerel.
0:08:34 > 0:08:36They don't need seasoning
0:08:36 > 0:08:38cos I've got my big seasoning going on later.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42'Once the fillets start to colour, whip them out,
0:08:42 > 0:08:46'spoon over your aromatics, and pop back under the grill
0:08:46 > 0:08:48'until the topping is a little crisp.'
0:09:05 > 0:09:08What's so remarkable about that
0:09:08 > 0:09:12is I'm getting all those wonderful flavours
0:09:12 > 0:09:14and they are really, really exciting in your mouth,
0:09:14 > 0:09:16but it's not too fishy.
0:09:16 > 0:09:22The whole sort of intensity of mackerel has been knocked back.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26So anybody who thinks that that's too fishy
0:09:26 > 0:09:28is in for a lovely surprise.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36That is one gorgeous, gorgeous plate of fish.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41The real key to this dish
0:09:41 > 0:09:44is calming the overtly fishy flavours
0:09:44 > 0:09:46with something bright and fresh.
0:09:55 > 0:10:00My favourite bit of the whole week is Sunday lunch.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02I like the cooking.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06I love the food itself and I love that whole performance -
0:10:06 > 0:10:09the idea of choosing the bird, of stuffing it.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12But I love roast chicken
0:10:12 > 0:10:15so much that I find it want it during the week as well.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18'So here's a recipe that I can do quickly
0:10:18 > 0:10:22'and just shove in the oven any night of the week.'
0:10:22 > 0:10:27Because I haven't got the time during the week...
0:10:28 > 0:10:31for the heat to get right into a whole bird,
0:10:31 > 0:10:33I cut him in half. And I do that
0:10:33 > 0:10:35by cutting through the bones.
0:10:37 > 0:10:40Split him down the back like that, in half,
0:10:40 > 0:10:43and then, again, through the bones here.
0:10:44 > 0:10:46All I want is the meat in a form
0:10:46 > 0:10:48where the heat can get to it very quickly.
0:10:48 > 0:10:51And then squash him a bit.
0:10:53 > 0:10:56There are certain things that, for me,
0:10:56 > 0:10:59just go with chicken perfectly. One of them is garlic.
0:10:59 > 0:11:00The two smells -
0:11:00 > 0:11:05roasting chicken and roasting garlic - I can't think of any smell
0:11:05 > 0:11:07that will bring me to the table quicker.
0:11:07 > 0:11:11I'm just going to squash these cloves. Sort of flatten them.
0:11:11 > 0:11:14That way I just get a very mild flavour.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19I always keep my lemons out of the fridge
0:11:19 > 0:11:22and I roll them, too, or squash them a bit
0:11:22 > 0:11:23and that way they give up
0:11:23 > 0:11:26much, much more of their juice when you squeeze them.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29'It wouldn't be roast chicken without some fresh herbs.'
0:11:29 > 0:11:32Something with a woody stem, like thyme.
0:11:32 > 0:11:34Maybe a bit of sage.
0:11:34 > 0:11:36Good.
0:11:36 > 0:11:39And then rosemary. That's the other good one.
0:11:39 > 0:11:42This isn't something that I'm going to delicately flavour.
0:11:42 > 0:11:45So I'm going to leave the herbs whole.
0:11:45 > 0:11:49'A generous seasoning and then just moisten the chicken.'
0:11:51 > 0:11:54I don't have to worry about the heat penetrating
0:11:54 > 0:11:57right inside the bird as if using a whole stuffed bird on a Sunday.
0:11:57 > 0:12:02So cook it on a really high heat at over 200.
0:12:02 > 0:12:03Then it will come out, hopefully,
0:12:03 > 0:12:06with some lovely little crisp edges as well.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09It means I've got 30, 40 minutes...
0:12:10 > 0:12:13in which to pour myself a drink,
0:12:13 > 0:12:16have a bath, check my emails
0:12:16 > 0:12:18and then I'll come down and he'll be ready.
0:12:18 > 0:12:21I feel as if I'm in charge of the chicken,
0:12:21 > 0:12:22rather than Sunday lunch
0:12:22 > 0:12:25when I feel as if the whole thing's in charge of me.
0:12:38 > 0:12:42Cooking it at that high temperature means that
0:12:42 > 0:12:46I've still got all the wonderful juices out of the chicken.
0:12:46 > 0:12:49And inside those garlic cloves,
0:12:49 > 0:12:52they'll be all soft and gooey and fudgey.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55So all the best bits of the Sunday roast,
0:12:55 > 0:12:58all the sizzle and savour.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01All I want with that is a big bowl of green salad.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04I've got the dressing there, all those juices in the pan.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07Maybe a bit of bread to soak it up.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10'The only thing I've done differently here
0:13:10 > 0:13:13'is to carve the bird before cooking it.
0:13:13 > 0:13:16'That one nifty change means that I can enjoy
0:13:16 > 0:13:18'a roast any night of the week.
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