Making Things Go Further

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0:00:26 > 0:00:29I'm not sure that we're really that good

0:00:29 > 0:00:31at making a little bit go a long way.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34If I want to do that, I tend to look further afield,

0:00:34 > 0:00:38such as the recipes of Italy or France, or of Spain.

0:00:38 > 0:00:43They have a history of producing food from very simple,

0:00:43 > 0:00:46very basic ingredients with masses of flavour.

0:00:46 > 0:00:48Something like a sausage or a salami,

0:00:48 > 0:00:51something that's got bags of flavour in it.

0:00:51 > 0:00:55It will make all your cheap ingredients flavoursome.

0:00:57 > 0:01:0025 years ago, when I first came to England,

0:01:00 > 0:01:04charcuterie was practically unknown apart from the odd salami

0:01:04 > 0:01:06that you saw in Italian delis,

0:01:06 > 0:01:11but now people have travelled a lot and been to Spain, Italy, France,

0:01:11 > 0:01:13and they understand charcuterie a lot more.

0:01:13 > 0:01:15Even the word they understand now.

0:01:15 > 0:01:19This is rillettes, pigeon and pork.

0:01:19 > 0:01:23Vincent Castellano has been a charcutier for 36 years.

0:01:23 > 0:01:26He's passionate about all things pig.

0:01:26 > 0:01:32Charcuterie is a very old word made of two words, really -

0:01:32 > 0:01:36"char", it means flesh, and "cuterie", it means cooking,

0:01:36 > 0:01:39and it doesn't always involve the heat process,

0:01:39 > 0:01:41it's also curing and drying and maturing.

0:01:41 > 0:01:46It's sausages, it's pates, it's brawn, it's pancetta, it's chorizo.

0:01:46 > 0:01:49Basically the flavour of the pig is fantastic.

0:01:49 > 0:01:54It's got fat, it's got lean meat, it goes well together,

0:01:54 > 0:01:58and pork, basically, you use every single part of the pig.

0:01:58 > 0:02:02To use a cliche, the only thing you don't use in a pig is the oink.

0:02:02 > 0:02:04If I say it properly.

0:02:10 > 0:02:13Charcuterie is a great basis to make your food go further.

0:02:13 > 0:02:15Cooking chorizo here,

0:02:15 > 0:02:21which is used to flavour dishes like bean casseroles and stews with lamb.

0:02:21 > 0:02:24It's endless, and you don't need very much.

0:02:24 > 0:02:27You just need it to season to give the background flavour, the spice,

0:02:27 > 0:02:31because as you cook it, the oils are released and that,

0:02:31 > 0:02:34with all the turmeric and paprika and the chilli,

0:02:34 > 0:02:36the flavour is really concentrated.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41And here this one is flavoured with black peppers,

0:02:41 > 0:02:43and it's so intense, it just goes on and on.

0:02:43 > 0:02:46It's just fantastic.

0:02:46 > 0:02:49I'm the biggest fan, I think. This is why I'm making this.

0:02:49 > 0:02:52I make it for myself, not for the customers.

0:02:55 > 0:02:57Charcuterie has a wonderful ability

0:02:57 > 0:03:01to bring the best out of so many other ingredients.

0:03:01 > 0:03:04Tonight, I'm going to chuck a spicy sausage in with some veg

0:03:04 > 0:03:08to make one of my favourites - a rustic stew.

0:03:12 > 0:03:16I love this sort of cooking, it's very... it's very satisfying for the cook.

0:03:16 > 0:03:20To bring something to the table that you know hasn't cost much money,

0:03:20 > 0:03:23and yet is going to make lots of people very happy,

0:03:23 > 0:03:26it gives enormous pleasure, it really does.

0:03:30 > 0:03:33There's no real recipe here, just work out how many you're feeding

0:03:33 > 0:03:39and think, well, half a carrot per person will be enough

0:03:39 > 0:03:41and half an onion.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44And to that, I'm going to put in some celery.

0:03:44 > 0:03:46The base of my dish is building up,

0:03:46 > 0:03:49but I'd quite like something else in there.

0:03:49 > 0:03:52Maybe a little bit of oregano.

0:03:58 > 0:04:00I've made this so many times,

0:04:00 > 0:04:03just opening a can of tomatoes, and it's been great.

0:04:03 > 0:04:05I'd happily do that again,

0:04:05 > 0:04:08but I've got tomatoes around that need using up.

0:04:08 > 0:04:10They are a bit too squashy for a salad,

0:04:10 > 0:04:14and I think they'll do well in here.

0:04:14 > 0:04:18The strength of the sausage means the flavour goes a long way,

0:04:18 > 0:04:21so you don't have to add much more.

0:04:21 > 0:04:24Just a few fennel seeds, chilli flakes for warmth

0:04:24 > 0:04:27and some orange peel that packs a real punch.

0:04:27 > 0:04:30It's funny that you could put so much orange juice in there,

0:04:30 > 0:04:32freshly squeezed,

0:04:32 > 0:04:35and you'd get nothing like the flavour that you get

0:04:35 > 0:04:38from even the tiniest strip of the orange zest.

0:04:38 > 0:04:40That's where all the essential oils are.

0:04:40 > 0:04:43The heart and soul of the orange is actually in the outside.

0:04:44 > 0:04:49So I've got a flavoursome base. I've got the bulk of it, these beans,

0:04:49 > 0:04:51and now I want to add the real flavour.

0:04:51 > 0:04:56This is probably the most expensive bit of the whole dish.

0:04:56 > 0:05:00I'm going to hack it into fairly small pieces.

0:05:00 > 0:05:04I could put it in whole, and then slice it at the table.

0:05:06 > 0:05:08But I want lots of flavour in this dish,

0:05:08 > 0:05:13and I think I will get more flavour by slicing it into small pieces.

0:05:17 > 0:05:20You can see the freckles of fat throughout it

0:05:20 > 0:05:24and that's where lots of the flavour and the richness will come.

0:05:26 > 0:05:29Cover and simmer for as long as you can.

0:05:29 > 0:05:33The longer it cooks, the better the flavour.

0:05:33 > 0:05:37Just before serving, season and add some fresh herbs.

0:05:37 > 0:05:39I'm sticking with oregano.

0:05:39 > 0:05:44It's a meaty old dish, and you want something fresh in there,

0:05:44 > 0:05:46something brightly flavoured.

0:05:46 > 0:05:50What I really like is the idea of bringing that to the table.

0:05:50 > 0:05:54There's something very generous about sticking a ladle

0:05:54 > 0:05:59into a big cauldron of food, and spooning it out for everybody.

0:05:59 > 0:06:01It just feels good.

0:06:01 > 0:06:05Make sure everyone gets a few chunks of the delicious sausage

0:06:08 > 0:06:11and finish off with some orange zest.

0:06:14 > 0:06:16Extraordinarily meaty,

0:06:16 > 0:06:20considering it's only got one skinny sausage in there.

0:06:20 > 0:06:22Six people will happily feast on that.

0:06:22 > 0:06:26And it's cost probably under two quid a head.

0:06:26 > 0:06:29It really is cheap, cheap food.

0:06:29 > 0:06:31You don't need a lot of sausage

0:06:31 > 0:06:34to give this stew real flavour and depth.

0:06:34 > 0:06:37A little definitely goes a long way.

0:06:45 > 0:06:47One of the problems with a small garden

0:06:47 > 0:06:50is I have to cram in as much as I possibly can.

0:06:50 > 0:06:54I get little bits of things that I have to make the most of.

0:06:54 > 0:06:57It's funny, you move a few leaves,

0:06:57 > 0:07:01it's like finding a treasure chest, just hiding there.

0:07:01 > 0:07:04And I've got a few currants, too.

0:07:07 > 0:07:12They hang down like... It's like costume jewellery.

0:07:12 > 0:07:14I'd grow these even if I wasn't going to eat them,

0:07:14 > 0:07:16because they look so beautiful.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19I've got some whitecurrants too, these are very beautiful.

0:07:19 > 0:07:23I think these are the most elegant currants of all.

0:07:23 > 0:07:24They really are like jewels.

0:07:24 > 0:07:27The flavour is virtually the same as a redcurrant,

0:07:27 > 0:07:34but they catch the light and so they look really beautiful in a tart,

0:07:34 > 0:07:36especially when you eat it by candlelight.

0:07:38 > 0:07:42And I got my first red raspberries this year.

0:07:42 > 0:07:44Literally a couple. What do I do with those?

0:07:50 > 0:07:53One of the first trees I ever planted was a mulberry

0:07:53 > 0:07:55and it's never fruited.

0:07:55 > 0:07:58They take about eight years to actually show their fruit.

0:07:58 > 0:08:01Oh, there is one. Oh, there's lots.

0:08:02 > 0:08:04I've waited ten years for this.

0:08:04 > 0:08:07It's their first year.

0:08:08 > 0:08:10They're all hiding.

0:08:10 > 0:08:12Oh, this is really special.

0:08:12 > 0:08:15My first mulberries.

0:08:15 > 0:08:17They really are. Isn't that amazing?

0:08:21 > 0:08:25I want to find a way to turn these into a simple summer pudding.

0:08:25 > 0:08:27And I think they'll be perfect

0:08:27 > 0:08:29with some last bits of fruit in the fridge,

0:08:29 > 0:08:33a bit of leftover cake and the last trickles of a lemon liqueur.

0:08:33 > 0:08:37This really is about making a little go a long way.

0:08:38 > 0:08:41Soften any berries just with a little sugar

0:08:41 > 0:08:44and a splash of water until they burst.

0:08:44 > 0:08:48Then it's just a case of dribbling the sponge with liqueur,

0:08:48 > 0:08:52waiting for the fruit to cool, then folding in the whipped cream.

0:08:55 > 0:08:57All that from a few berries.

0:09:00 > 0:09:03In terms of making a few good things from the garden go a long way...

0:09:05 > 0:09:06..this doesn't look bad.

0:09:19 > 0:09:21This tastes like a little bit of my garden.

0:09:23 > 0:09:25On a very warm summer's day.

0:09:31 > 0:09:33It smells like it too.

0:09:33 > 0:09:36This is a great impromptu dessert.

0:09:36 > 0:09:41The leftover cake, soaked in liqueur and a splodge of cream or yoghurt

0:09:41 > 0:09:43means that you only need a few berries

0:09:43 > 0:09:45to make this summery dish sing.

0:09:51 > 0:09:54There are several reasons for making something go further.

0:09:54 > 0:09:58Sometimes it's because the main ingredient is very expensive.

0:09:58 > 0:10:01Other times it's because you simply don't have much of it.

0:10:01 > 0:10:03I've got a couple of cooked salmon fillets.

0:10:03 > 0:10:06That's not exactly enough to feed the family.

0:10:06 > 0:10:08I could make so many things with them,

0:10:08 > 0:10:12but I want them to be a filling in a lovely crumbly tart.

0:10:12 > 0:10:14I'm going to make these go further

0:10:14 > 0:10:17by putting them into the heart of a tart.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20The choice of pastry is up to you.

0:10:20 > 0:10:23If it was puff pastry, then I'd probably use frozen.

0:10:23 > 0:10:27If it's short crust or sweet pastry, I like to make my own.

0:10:28 > 0:10:31It's not difficult and sometimes, I make it by hand.

0:10:31 > 0:10:34I love that feel of the flour and the butter in my fingers.

0:10:34 > 0:10:37But to be honest there are some times

0:10:37 > 0:10:39when I just make it in the machine.

0:10:46 > 0:10:49Making pastry can be quite fiddly

0:10:49 > 0:10:52and it's not the sort of thing I want to do when I come home.

0:10:52 > 0:10:55But there are times when I just want to make pastry,

0:10:55 > 0:10:58maybe when somebody's coming. But it's not such an arduous task,

0:10:58 > 0:11:02it doesn't take that long, even when you make it from scratch.

0:11:06 > 0:11:10If you push the pastry right down into the corners,

0:11:10 > 0:11:14then it won't tear when you put the filling in.

0:11:14 > 0:11:19This is the sort of job that really should be almost a bit of a pain,

0:11:19 > 0:11:21but it's not.

0:11:21 > 0:11:25It's the pleasure of making pastry and feeling dough in your hands.

0:11:26 > 0:11:30It's really... There's something very relaxing about it,

0:11:30 > 0:11:34Something...kind of makes me feel quite calm.

0:11:34 > 0:11:37To keep your pastry crisp and crumbly,

0:11:37 > 0:11:40your case needs to bake a little before the filling goes in.

0:11:40 > 0:11:43The best way to do that is to cover the base with foil,

0:11:43 > 0:11:46weighed down with ceramic beans.

0:11:47 > 0:11:51When I think of salmon, I think of summery ingredients.

0:11:51 > 0:11:54Soft green spring onions, little bit of water cress,

0:11:54 > 0:11:57flavours that work perfectly with salmon.

0:11:57 > 0:12:00We've got very mild, gentle flavours going on here,

0:12:00 > 0:12:04and I don't want any sort of browning

0:12:04 > 0:12:07or caramelising of the onions. Just enough to soften them.

0:12:07 > 0:12:10And that way, when we come to cut it with a knife

0:12:10 > 0:12:14it'll just cut straight through instead of tearing the tart.

0:12:18 > 0:12:23The filling is so simple - just four eggs and two big cartons of cream.

0:12:28 > 0:12:31To be honest, I could have got away with one big piece of salmon

0:12:31 > 0:12:34but I want it to be quite full and generous.

0:12:34 > 0:12:38And I keep the pieces large so that they stay moist when they cook.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41I don't want them to be in little bits.

0:12:43 > 0:12:46There are lots of people who could take that to the oven

0:12:46 > 0:12:49without spilling it, but I don't quite trust myself.

0:12:49 > 0:12:51So I'll almost fill it with the custard.

0:12:51 > 0:12:56I'll pour in the rest of the jug-full in the oven.

0:13:00 > 0:13:03I used to think this sort of thing was complicated

0:13:03 > 0:13:05till I actually had a go.

0:13:05 > 0:13:09If you're in a hurry, ready-made pastry will do fine,

0:13:09 > 0:13:11but it's worth making your own if you have time.

0:13:20 > 0:13:23That pastry's really, really crumbly.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26A nice, fine end for a piece of salmon.

0:13:28 > 0:13:31Making a tart is a great way to turn a small portion

0:13:31 > 0:13:34into a luxurious supper.

0:13:35 > 0:13:38Two fillets of salmon really can feed six people.

0:13:44 > 0:13:46Subtitles by Red Bee Media

0:13:46 > 0:13:50E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk