0:00:10 > 0:00:14I have an exuberant passion for a particular foodstuff
0:00:14 > 0:00:16that some people find utterly revolting.
0:00:16 > 0:00:18But that's how it is.
0:00:18 > 0:00:20What gives some people pain,
0:00:20 > 0:00:22can give the rest of us exquisite pleasure.
0:00:22 > 0:00:28And I have everything to feed my late night need in this black box.
0:00:38 > 0:00:41There is a reason why this box is black, that's because
0:00:41 > 0:00:46it contains liquorice, and no-one does liquorice like the Italians.
0:00:48 > 0:00:54Oh, these are so charming. They are liquorice pebbles.
0:00:54 > 0:00:57Even liquorice-phobes couldn't resist these, surely.
0:01:00 > 0:01:04When I'm in the mood for something a little more darkly decadent,
0:01:04 > 0:01:08I go for these chocolates with an oozing liquorice centre.
0:01:10 > 0:01:16Now, when I was teenage, it was considered the height of cool
0:01:16 > 0:01:21to be chewing on a natural liquorice root, as really, why wouldn't it be?
0:01:21 > 0:01:24Mmm, very nice, actually. What else have I got in here?
0:01:26 > 0:01:30If only I had known about this black and viscous liquorice liqueur
0:01:30 > 0:01:34when I concocted this liquorice pudding first off,
0:01:34 > 0:01:37I would have spiked it with it.
0:01:37 > 0:01:41However, I am happy enough with these lozenges.
0:01:45 > 0:01:49I need a teaspoon of these little babies
0:01:49 > 0:01:50to start off my liquorice pudding.
0:01:50 > 0:01:55I've got some water here, and really you just have to be patient
0:01:55 > 0:01:59enough to wait five minutes to let the liquorice dissolve.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08Bit of a swirl will help it along, but to be honest,
0:02:08 > 0:02:10I don't mind if it doesn't all dissolve.
0:02:10 > 0:02:15A few dark splodges in the pudding later are rather gorgeous.
0:02:19 > 0:02:23Bitterness is part of the point of liquorice,
0:02:23 > 0:02:25but I still need a bit of sugar.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29I'm having light muscovado in my pudding.
0:02:34 > 0:02:38That is as black as tar.
0:02:41 > 0:02:45Adding cream to this turns the black into a deep buff-tone,
0:02:45 > 0:02:47like a manila envelope.
0:02:50 > 0:02:54Frankly, I could drink this, but to turn it into pudding,
0:02:54 > 0:02:57I need a cornflour mixture, I need to slake it,
0:02:57 > 0:03:02which means a bit of cornflour, mixed to a smooth paste with milk.
0:03:14 > 0:03:19This is hot, so I'll whisk this in.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28Just a few seconds and it'll be thick.
0:03:33 > 0:03:38That's it, it's ready. So excited.
0:03:41 > 0:03:45What I normally do is cover these,
0:03:45 > 0:03:50and put them in the fridge to chill, about four hours or overnight.
0:03:50 > 0:03:53But you don't have to!
0:03:53 > 0:03:58And there is something to be said for eating them straight away,
0:03:58 > 0:04:03and what's more, although it does feel verging on the deviant,
0:04:05 > 0:04:08with a little sea salt sprinkled over.
0:04:08 > 0:04:12I don't mix it in, I just add with each spoonful.
0:04:15 > 0:04:17It's out of this world.
0:04:25 > 0:04:28Mmm, dark and divine.
0:04:28 > 0:04:32# Lonely
0:04:33 > 0:04:38# Lonely. #
0:04:49 > 0:04:54When I can, I love, love, love coming to an Italian deli,
0:04:54 > 0:04:59and right now, I'm here because I need some fregola,
0:04:59 > 0:05:01which really, you don't find on the high street.
0:05:01 > 0:05:05Now, what fregola is, is like a giant couscous.
0:05:05 > 0:05:07It's often known as Sardinian couscous,
0:05:07 > 0:05:11but unlike ordinary couscous, it's toasted when it's made,
0:05:11 > 0:05:14so it has a real roundness and nuttiness of flavour,
0:05:14 > 0:05:18and what I need it for is my Sardinian couscous and clams.
0:05:23 > 0:05:28Oh, the sound of a sizzle just makes me salivate.
0:05:28 > 0:05:30I've got a shallot in with some olive oil.
0:05:32 > 0:05:34The wonderful thing about these shallots is
0:05:34 > 0:05:36that they soften so quickly,
0:05:36 > 0:05:40so I'm already in position to mince in some garlic.
0:05:40 > 0:05:42A lot of garlic here, two cloves,
0:05:42 > 0:05:47but this is from Sardinia, and they do like their tastes robust.
0:05:55 > 0:05:58Bit of fire as well. Some chilli flakes.
0:05:58 > 0:06:02This gorgeous terracotta coloured confetti.
0:06:06 > 0:06:09Haven't quite finished the flavour base.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13I feel I need an ungainly squirt of tomato puree.
0:06:13 > 0:06:19I normally would NEVER add tomatoes to clams,
0:06:19 > 0:06:22I like them "il bianco," as they say in Italy.
0:06:22 > 0:06:26All-white, no tomatoes, but this is different.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29It somehow keeps the lightness of tomatoless clams,
0:06:29 > 0:06:32but brings a bit of brightness at the same time.
0:06:35 > 0:06:40On top of all that flavour base, I'm adding a weakish chicken stock.
0:06:48 > 0:06:50You could at this stage add wine, but I prefer vermouth.
0:06:50 > 0:06:53It has a more mellow ring about it,
0:06:53 > 0:06:58you don't need to cook it for ages like you would red wine.
0:06:59 > 0:07:02In goes the fregola.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09If you've never come across fregola before,
0:07:09 > 0:07:12do not be afraid or even slightly panicked.
0:07:12 > 0:07:15It's really like giant couscous, that's all it is.
0:07:19 > 0:07:23The fregola won't take very long to cook,
0:07:23 > 0:07:27and in the meantime, I will chop some parsley.
0:07:39 > 0:07:42Now, the fregola is cooked, I can feel that.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45It's cooked, but still a bit resistant,
0:07:45 > 0:07:47which is how it should be,
0:07:47 > 0:07:49but I have something to add,
0:07:49 > 0:07:54that is the sea liquor that will eschew from these clams.
0:07:54 > 0:07:58They've been soaking in cold water, and all you need to know is
0:07:58 > 0:08:01that any clams that don't open should be chucked away.
0:08:10 > 0:08:15I always feel a link with our primeval past
0:08:15 > 0:08:16when I cook with seafood.
0:08:20 > 0:08:22What a welcoming clatter!
0:08:27 > 0:08:29These just need to steam.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33Like this.
0:08:36 > 0:08:41It's a matter of moments, so I'm getting ready now. Yum!
0:08:47 > 0:08:52I love it when the clams have opened, and the fregola
0:08:52 > 0:08:56is sort of nestling inside the shells, on the cushions of clam.
0:08:56 > 0:09:01Beautiful, and the smell, I am transported to the Italian seaside.
0:09:12 > 0:09:15I need a bowl.
0:09:15 > 0:09:18I need a ladle, and I need to eat.
0:09:27 > 0:09:29It's an odd thing.
0:09:29 > 0:09:33This is so unlike anything you ever tasted,
0:09:33 > 0:09:36and yet reassuring at the same time.
0:09:36 > 0:09:40That is the magic of Italian cooking.
0:09:52 > 0:09:55Mmm!
0:10:23 > 0:10:27ITALIAN CHATTER
0:10:37 > 0:10:42- Prego? - Un caffe per favore.- Bel.
0:10:42 > 0:10:46I learned from living in Italy that you really don't need a whole
0:10:46 > 0:10:50raft of ingredients to create a beautiful supper.
0:10:50 > 0:10:52For example, when I cook lamb,
0:10:52 > 0:10:55I just marinate it in balsamic vinegar
0:10:55 > 0:10:57and some olive oil and salt,
0:10:57 > 0:11:01and then once it's garlanded with bay leaves, it's so ravishing.
0:11:01 > 0:11:06And likewise, I do a recipe with some baby aubergines,
0:11:06 > 0:11:08and I scatter red onions on top,
0:11:08 > 0:11:12but I macerate the red onions, so they're almost luminescent.
0:11:14 > 0:11:16My pudding is much newer,
0:11:16 > 0:11:20although in fact it comes from a relatively old source.
0:11:20 > 0:11:24It's an ice cream cake that is studded with meringue
0:11:24 > 0:11:26and grated chocolate.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29And it's incredibly high impact, though low effort.
0:11:29 > 0:11:32And I discovered it in a book written by a highfalutin
0:11:32 > 0:11:34Italian man of letters.
0:11:36 > 0:11:38I may have found the recipe in a venerable volume,
0:11:38 > 0:11:40but it's now one of the most straightforward
0:11:40 > 0:11:44and simplest dishes in my repertoire.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53There aren't many puddings you can rustle up
0:11:53 > 0:12:00early in the morning before a day's work, but this is one of them.
0:12:00 > 0:12:03There are only four ingredients needed,
0:12:03 > 0:12:06the first one being cream, obviously.
0:12:06 > 0:12:08I want to whisk this so the cream is thick,
0:12:08 > 0:12:11but still soft, which is what I want.
0:12:11 > 0:12:14And now I'm ready for ingredient number "due."
0:12:14 > 0:12:17A splosh of rum.
0:12:19 > 0:12:23My philosopher actually specified a rather rare liqueur
0:12:23 > 0:12:26that I can't get any more, but rum, to me,
0:12:26 > 0:12:30always tastes so authentically Italian in puddings.
0:12:30 > 0:12:34OK, so that's the whisking part over and done with.
0:12:36 > 0:12:40My third ingredient is chocolate, it's a good start.
0:12:43 > 0:12:47I find it easier to cut the chocolate rather than grate it.
0:12:50 > 0:12:53It makes a big difference if your chocolate is cold,
0:12:53 > 0:12:55cos otherwise it tends to melt as you chop it.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01So, in with the chocolate shards.
0:13:01 > 0:13:04A lovely sound.
0:13:07 > 0:13:10And now, quick fold.
0:13:15 > 0:13:21My last ingredient, some meringues, a bit of brute force needed.
0:13:21 > 0:13:28These just get crushed in, a sugary and heavy snowfall.
0:13:28 > 0:13:32And the thing about meringues is that they will not freeze,
0:13:32 > 0:13:38so you create this crisp texture within the ice cream cake.
0:13:38 > 0:13:43And now it's just a question of folding these in.
0:13:43 > 0:13:44Mmm.
0:13:46 > 0:13:49Like a morning walk on freshly fallen snow.
0:13:54 > 0:13:57Now, yes it needs a day in the freezer,
0:13:57 > 0:13:59but basically this is now made.
0:13:59 > 0:14:02The hardest thing for me is the tearing of the cling,
0:14:02 > 0:14:07but I have learnt, I have been taught, always tear the cling
0:14:07 > 0:14:12from a standing up position, don't put it flat onto the surface.
0:14:12 > 0:14:13Look at that.
0:14:15 > 0:14:18Got to line a loaf tin generously.
0:14:20 > 0:14:21This makes unmoulding so easy,
0:14:21 > 0:14:25you just pull it out using the overhang.
0:14:29 > 0:14:30In this goes.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42Stamp it down.
0:14:45 > 0:14:49So, after a day, give or take, in the freezer, this will be set
0:14:49 > 0:14:54and ready to serve. And with it, I'm going to melt some chocolate,
0:14:54 > 0:14:57some cream, another spot of rum, and that's a chocolate sauce done.
0:14:57 > 0:15:01There's nothing fancy about it, there's nothing difficult,
0:15:01 > 0:15:06but as Steve Jobs said, "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."
0:15:07 > 0:15:09'Ciao, bella.'
0:15:21 > 0:15:27This has to be the easiest, speediest way of cooking a roast.
0:15:29 > 0:15:32What I need, what you need,
0:15:32 > 0:15:35is a boned and butterflied leg of lamb.
0:15:35 > 0:15:39It may not look much like a butterfly, but that's the idea.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42And, if you're not getting your lamb from a butcher, don't worry,
0:15:42 > 0:15:46because any butcher counter at a supermarket can do this for you.
0:15:47 > 0:15:52I'm giving it what I think of as a fast track marinating treatment.
0:15:53 > 0:15:56In the traditional manner, much as my mother always used to,
0:15:56 > 0:16:01I'm going to cut slices of garlic, and tuck them into the meat.
0:16:06 > 0:16:11I like finding ridges and crevices to poke the garlic into.
0:16:13 > 0:16:14And now a bit of olive oil.
0:16:22 > 0:16:27And a key ingredient, and not a very familiar one with me,
0:16:27 > 0:16:29balsamic vinegar.
0:16:29 > 0:16:30I've often been undecided about this,
0:16:30 > 0:16:33but it is perfect with the lamb.
0:16:33 > 0:16:37There's something about the rich sweetness,
0:16:37 > 0:16:42and the sharpness at the same time that reminds me of redcurrant,
0:16:42 > 0:16:47which of course we love with lamb, so it's same destination,
0:16:47 > 0:16:50but the Italian route. Always picturesque.
0:16:54 > 0:16:56Bay leaves next.
0:16:56 > 0:17:01Now, I'm going to snip some in a rather slipshod fashion now,
0:17:01 > 0:17:03and when I serve, I'm going to keep some back
0:17:03 > 0:17:06to have whole, because although you don't need
0:17:06 > 0:17:09any extra bay leaves later, they look so beautiful.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17I'm going to leave the meat to get to room temperature.
0:17:17 > 0:17:20It goes into the oven, and that's a hot, hot oven,
0:17:20 > 0:17:24for about 30 minutes, and then 15 minutes rest
0:17:24 > 0:17:28under some foil, and it will be lusciously pink and ready to eat.
0:17:30 > 0:17:35But, for now, I have those darkly gleaming aubergines beckoning me.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42Lamb goes with aubergines however they are cooked,
0:17:42 > 0:17:45and I am rather excited about this way,
0:17:45 > 0:17:48because I have done a bit of tinkering
0:17:48 > 0:17:54with an Italian favourite, which is simply red onions and aubergine.
0:17:54 > 0:17:55A bit of oregano.
0:17:55 > 0:18:00So that's oil and oregano there, and I have gone the cute route.
0:18:00 > 0:18:04I don't always like that, but look, these baby aubergine.
0:18:07 > 0:18:11I want them cut lengthways.
0:18:12 > 0:18:16Just put cut side down on the tray.
0:18:23 > 0:18:28You may notice that I'm trying to keep the stalks on.
0:18:28 > 0:18:30You can't actually eat the stalks,
0:18:30 > 0:18:33it is purely for aesthetic considerations.
0:18:39 > 0:18:41And last one...
0:18:47 > 0:18:50Now, I'm just going to smoosh them about here.
0:18:50 > 0:18:53I mean, they've already soaked up the oil.
0:18:53 > 0:18:56Aubergines will drink however much oil you give them,
0:18:56 > 0:19:00so, sometimes you just have to be quite stern about rations.
0:19:00 > 0:19:06And then turn these round, so they're cut side up,
0:19:06 > 0:19:10and then they'll get all soft and golden
0:19:10 > 0:19:12when they get their quick blitz in the hot oven.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18I did promise red onion with the aubergines,
0:19:18 > 0:19:21and a red onion I have. Look how beautiful.
0:19:26 > 0:19:31The idea is to cut the onion into fine half moons.
0:19:35 > 0:19:36It's not really cooking,
0:19:36 > 0:19:39I'm not cooking this onion, it's a treatment.
0:19:39 > 0:19:43And it's a treatment I devised really for myself, because,
0:19:43 > 0:19:45although I love the taste of onion,
0:19:45 > 0:19:48I find that acrid afterburn a bit tough.
0:19:48 > 0:19:52And my method, shortly to be unveiled,
0:19:52 > 0:19:54takes away any of that burn.
0:20:00 > 0:20:01And here goes.
0:20:03 > 0:20:06The red onion goes into a bowl.
0:20:08 > 0:20:11Going to add a little "sale,"
0:20:13 > 0:20:15and quite a bit of red wine vinegar.
0:20:19 > 0:20:22All the acrid taste disappears,
0:20:23 > 0:20:27and something spectacular happens all round.
0:20:29 > 0:20:33I want to make sure that as many of these onion
0:20:33 > 0:20:37pieces are saturated in the vinegar as possible,
0:20:37 > 0:20:41then I can leave them to steep while the aubergines are cooking.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46Right, I think I can get all this to the oven.
0:20:48 > 0:20:50Supper.
0:21:13 > 0:21:17Me in Venice, when I was writing a piece for the New York Times.
0:21:17 > 0:21:24- Oh, very nice.- This is incredible, I think I was somewhere in Tuscany,
0:21:24 > 0:21:27and that was linguine with courgette flowers.
0:21:27 > 0:21:31Very pretty wine shop, although these aren't my absolute best.
0:21:38 > 0:21:41Now, that's just what I wanted to see.
0:21:42 > 0:21:44Mmm!
0:21:47 > 0:21:52This needs to sit for a while, then I can slice it, and we can eat.
0:22:00 > 0:22:03Look at these, in all their bronzed glory.
0:22:03 > 0:22:09I did speak about the way steeping onions in vinegar makes them
0:22:09 > 0:22:11lose any acid, acrid taste.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14But look at this transformation.
0:22:16 > 0:22:20We're adding to the vinegary onions some garlic,
0:22:24 > 0:22:27some olive oil, extra virgin olive oil.
0:22:34 > 0:22:38Look at these beautiful pink onions suspended in that golden dressing.
0:22:39 > 0:22:44They make my soul sing. They would if I had one!
0:22:44 > 0:22:46And now...
0:22:47 > 0:22:49..gentle transfer.
0:22:51 > 0:22:57I need them warm still, because I want the onion, the oil,
0:22:57 > 0:23:02and the garlic to permeate that smoky charred flesh.
0:23:07 > 0:23:13And now comes the transformation. Don't think I need my whisk.
0:23:17 > 0:23:20It's jewel-like. So gorgeous.
0:23:24 > 0:23:27I know it's Italian food, but it's a bit of a Bollywood moment.
0:23:31 > 0:23:37I've got some fresh oregano for beauty and fragrance.
0:23:41 > 0:23:43And now the lamb.
0:23:46 > 0:23:50I have got all this fantastic juice to pour over the lamb
0:23:50 > 0:23:51once I have carved it.
0:23:52 > 0:23:56Although I say carve, I mean slice.
0:24:03 > 0:24:05Right.
0:24:06 > 0:24:10Easy peasy. Perfectly pink.
0:24:17 > 0:24:21So, it'll be piled up on its platter,
0:24:21 > 0:24:25drizzled with those wonderful bay and balsamic juices,
0:24:25 > 0:24:30then I think I might give it a little final crown of bay leaves.
0:24:51 > 0:24:53And I can feed the hungry hordes.
0:24:57 > 0:24:59Oh, lovely!
0:24:59 > 0:25:03- Have you had this before, Tom? - I have indeed.
0:25:03 > 0:25:06I'm going to ask you to swap plates.
0:25:14 > 0:25:15LAUGHTER
0:25:15 > 0:25:19CHATTER
0:25:33 > 0:25:35Well, as much as they've eaten,
0:25:35 > 0:25:38I think they'll find space for a little bit more.
0:25:38 > 0:25:40I'm about to unveil my meringue gelato cake.
0:25:43 > 0:25:48The great thing about wrapping it in cling is that you can just
0:25:48 > 0:25:51pull it out in one go, without any worry.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57Just a very light brick at this stage.
0:26:03 > 0:26:07I'm just going to cut it into iced slices.
0:26:10 > 0:26:15I love the knobbly texture, that's all those crumbled meringues,
0:26:15 > 0:26:17and the grated chocolate.
0:26:18 > 0:26:22And although it looks rich, it's in fact incredibly light.
0:26:25 > 0:26:27And although I'm going to put
0:26:27 > 0:26:29some raspberries on the table, I do want to dot some
0:26:29 > 0:26:31here and there.
0:26:32 > 0:26:37Yes, they do look beautiful, but they also provide
0:26:37 > 0:26:42just the right tang against the sweetness of the ice cream.
0:26:46 > 0:26:51And now I'm going to Jackson Pollock some chocolate sauce over. Mmm!
0:27:07 > 0:27:09This makes me feel absurdly happy.
0:27:09 > 0:27:11Let's hope it has the same effect on them.
0:27:13 > 0:27:16# I don't believe in fretting And grieving... #
0:27:16 > 0:27:19Will you hand me a plate?
0:27:20 > 0:27:25Don't worry, there's some raspberries there.
0:27:26 > 0:27:28I know!
0:27:28 > 0:27:33# Some find it pleasant Dining on pheasant
0:27:33 > 0:27:36# Those things Roll off of my knife
0:27:36 > 0:27:41# Just serve me tomatoes And mashed potatoes
0:27:41 > 0:27:44# Give me the simple life. #
0:27:48 > 0:27:51# Tu vuo fa l'Americano
0:27:51 > 0:27:53# Mericano! Mericano... #
0:27:53 > 0:27:57Real chilli fried and zingy.
0:27:58 > 0:28:01So, just roll them, roll them, roll them.
0:28:03 > 0:28:08I have managed to wrap a meatball in pasta.
0:28:08 > 0:28:10# Tu giochi al basebal
0:28:10 > 0:28:13# Ma e solde pe Camel chi te li da?
0:28:13 > 0:28:15# La borsetta di mamma
0:28:15 > 0:28:18# Tu vuo fa l'Americano
0:28:18 > 0:28:21# Mericano Mericano
0:28:21 > 0:28:23# Ma si nato in Italy
0:28:23 > 0:28:26# Siente a me, Nun ce sta niente
0:28:27 > 0:28:28# Afa OK, Napolita
0:28:28 > 0:28:31# Tu vuo fa l'American Tu vuo fa l'American
0:28:34 > 0:28:37# Comme te po' capi Che te vo bene... #
0:28:37 > 0:28:39Cut.
0:28:41 > 0:28:44You could add wine at this stage, but I prefer vermouth,
0:28:44 > 0:28:45not least because...
0:28:45 > 0:28:47Sorry!
0:28:49 > 0:28:55This is not my day! OK. It really is. So sorry. Oh, my God!
0:28:55 > 0:28:59It's just... Calm. OK.
0:28:59 > 0:29:01Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd