0:00:09 > 0:00:13I love this breakfast ciambella, which I call my yogurt pot cake.
0:00:13 > 0:00:17I mean, it is one of the traditional cakes of Italy.
0:00:17 > 0:00:21Now, I'd often eaten it but I'd never made it. But I found the recipe
0:00:21 > 0:00:24because one year I'd rented a house in Italy for the summer
0:00:24 > 0:00:27and I was having a bit of a nosey rummage through the kitchen,
0:00:27 > 0:00:30as one does. And I found the sort of book you dream of finding.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33A bit like a scrapbook, a bit like a notebook
0:00:33 > 0:00:36with lots of hand-written recipes and some bits torn out.
0:00:36 > 0:00:42And here was the recipe for this cake, so of course I copied it down.
0:00:42 > 0:00:47It's such a sunny cake, I think. I'm totally charmed by it.
0:00:47 > 0:00:50Of course it helps that it's easy to make.
0:00:50 > 0:00:53You use your yogurt pot as a unit of measurement,
0:00:53 > 0:00:56once you've emptied it out of yogurt, which you also use.
0:00:56 > 0:00:59But to start off with you just get your three eggs.
0:00:59 > 0:01:02You separate them and you whisk the whites.
0:01:23 > 0:01:27I've got a thick, firm snow here.
0:01:27 > 0:01:31So it's on to the yolks. Three yolks.
0:01:31 > 0:01:34I have to empty the yogurt pot before I can start using it
0:01:34 > 0:01:36to measure all of my other ingredients.
0:01:36 > 0:01:40I have to say I find this so charming, this recipe.
0:01:40 > 0:01:42My little yogurt pot and everything measured out.
0:01:42 > 0:01:46There's a sense of security this sort of old-fashionedness gives.
0:01:50 > 0:01:54I want two yogurt pots of sugar.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05This needs to whisk.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08I want it quite aerated as well as smooth.
0:02:15 > 0:02:22Right, onward. One pot of vegetable oil. Just any flavourless oil.
0:02:31 > 0:02:33I've got a pot now of cornflour.
0:02:33 > 0:02:36Although actually in Italy, they use potato starch,
0:02:36 > 0:02:39but cornflour or potato starch, they both work.
0:02:39 > 0:02:40One pot.
0:02:46 > 0:02:47In that goes.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10I just want to scrape down all the flour...
0:03:11 > 0:03:13..that's on the sides of the bowl.
0:03:15 > 0:03:21Mmm. Pretty luscious thick golden batter at this stage.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25And obviously you can use a wooden spoon
0:03:25 > 0:03:29and a bowl or a hand whisk - after all, this recipe,
0:03:29 > 0:03:32such as it is, pre-dates by far
0:03:32 > 0:03:35expensive electrical gadgetry in the kitchen.
0:03:38 > 0:03:43I've got a couple of ingredients that aren't measured in my yogurt pot.
0:03:43 > 0:03:47And one of them is lemon zest, about half a lemon's worth.
0:03:50 > 0:03:51And what I mix with this,
0:03:51 > 0:03:55which is THE Italian smell of baking, is vanilla.
0:03:57 > 0:04:00Although I'm not going to use the yogurt pot for the vanilla,
0:04:00 > 0:04:03obviously, I'm sticking to that sort of idea,
0:04:03 > 0:04:05by using the cap to measure it.
0:04:07 > 0:04:12I want two caps full of vanilla. Let's mix this together.
0:04:13 > 0:04:18Now, at this stage, the batter is almost play-dough-like.
0:04:21 > 0:04:25Really thick and oozy and eggy.
0:04:25 > 0:04:28But it is missing an essential component.
0:04:28 > 0:04:32And you've noticed maybe that I haven't used any raising agents.
0:04:32 > 0:04:38That is because the whites do all the raising.
0:04:38 > 0:04:39Or the rising.
0:04:40 > 0:04:43About a third of them goes in first,
0:04:43 > 0:04:47and at this stage I don't fold in gently.
0:04:47 > 0:04:52I am vigorous, violent, even.
0:04:52 > 0:04:57And this, in baking terminology, is called lightening the batter.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00In other words, it's slightly more liquid now,
0:05:00 > 0:05:04so it makes it much easier to fold in the rest of the egg whites,
0:05:04 > 0:05:07which I will do a bit more calmly and gently.
0:05:21 > 0:05:25I've got my cake tin. It's a savarin mould.
0:05:25 > 0:05:29The Italians call this cake a ciambella, that's the shape it is.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32And look at this ooze round.
0:05:36 > 0:05:38Ooze round a bit too much the way I'm going.
0:05:41 > 0:05:46It does look as if I'm filling this to the rim and I really am.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50But although it rises, it falls again slightly
0:05:50 > 0:05:53so it shouldn't spill out onto the oven.
0:05:53 > 0:05:56Speaking of which, it needs about half an hour,
0:05:56 > 0:05:59thirty-five minutes, in a moderate oven.
0:05:59 > 0:06:04And then once it's out and cooled, I dredge it with icing sugar.
0:06:04 > 0:06:10Slice it and bite it. And feel totally Italian.
0:06:25 > 0:06:29Although even when at home, I make myself feel Italian in the kitchen,
0:06:29 > 0:06:34I do feel the need to go back often. To soak it all up and replenish
0:06:34 > 0:06:35my Italian spirit.
0:06:40 > 0:06:43Italians takes their traditions very seriously,
0:06:43 > 0:06:47and I mean, why wouldn't they? So I can get a bit apprehensive
0:06:47 > 0:06:50when I toy with them, as I can do.
0:06:50 > 0:06:54And one of my little new inventions, or changes,
0:06:54 > 0:06:59is that Italians tend to make their meatballs out of minced beef,
0:06:59 > 0:07:01and sometimes pork or a mixture.
0:07:01 > 0:07:03And I thought, why not just make things easy
0:07:03 > 0:07:06and just use Italian sausages? I was very gratified
0:07:06 > 0:07:09that when I cooked this once, some Italian friends,
0:07:09 > 0:07:13not only did they like this, but actually they asked for the recipe.
0:07:15 > 0:07:21If you want to, you can unwrap them. That is very good.
0:07:21 > 0:07:24I just take a packet of Italian sausages
0:07:24 > 0:07:26and squeeze the meat out from the skins.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29Although actually, like my mother, I believe in child labour.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33And now my own children are too big I use my niece and nephew.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36So, about the size of a cherry tomato.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39Your hands are much better suited to it then mine,
0:07:39 > 0:07:41cos you've got nice small hands.
0:07:41 > 0:07:44See, I've already made mine too big, so ignore me.
0:07:44 > 0:07:46- Like that one?- That looks perfect.
0:07:46 > 0:07:51So just roll them, roll them, roll them. You go first. Perfect.
0:07:52 > 0:07:58As you roll the meatballs, just place on a baking tray or any flat surface.
0:07:58 > 0:08:03You'd be surprised how many you can get out of one packet of sausages.
0:08:03 > 0:08:09If you use small people with small hands, 40 meatballs is easy.
0:08:09 > 0:08:14- Is that the right size?- Perfect. Perfecto.
0:08:14 > 0:08:16- Yeah.- Si. Grazie.
0:08:16 > 0:08:19Then brown the meatballs.
0:08:19 > 0:08:23The thing about this is, not only does it make the look lovely and bronzed,
0:08:23 > 0:08:28but it makes more of their flavour go into the sauce for later.
0:08:28 > 0:08:31I start off by heating some garlic oil in a pan.
0:08:34 > 0:08:37It makes them nice and brown before we add the sauce.
0:08:40 > 0:08:41Thank you very much.
0:08:43 > 0:08:45Grazie mille.
0:08:45 > 0:08:50I would say "you're welcome" but I don't know what it is.
0:08:50 > 0:08:53If someone says "grazie", you just say "prego".
0:09:03 > 0:09:06Back to my young apprentices...
0:09:06 > 0:09:08I get them to snip some spring onions into a bowl
0:09:08 > 0:09:11and then I add them to the pan.
0:09:20 > 0:09:24I've got some oregano. Pizza herb.
0:09:24 > 0:09:27Yeah, I like that sprinkled on top.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31Absolutely. I'm going to do quite a lot.
0:09:34 > 0:09:40If you wanted to at this stage, you could add some wine or vermouth.
0:09:40 > 0:09:42We're going to add tomatoes.
0:09:42 > 0:09:45I then add two cans of chopped tomatoes.
0:09:46 > 0:09:51Half-fill each can with some cold water and swill out into the pan.
0:10:02 > 0:10:04Would you like to add a bit of pepper?
0:10:06 > 0:10:09That's enough, otherwise Ella won't like it.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12Ella, you can add salt if you like.
0:10:14 > 0:10:18Are you going to go over there? Well done.
0:10:18 > 0:10:22All that's left to do is add a couple of bay leaves.
0:10:27 > 0:10:32It's quite liquid, because I'm going to let them simmer without a lid on
0:10:32 > 0:10:34and that means all of the water will evaporate
0:10:34 > 0:10:36and it will have a really strong, gutsy taste.
0:10:40 > 0:10:43I'll move up a bit so you can have a look.
0:10:43 > 0:10:44- Smell nice?- Oh, it smells so good.
0:10:50 > 0:10:53I like to give the meatballs a gentle stir in their sauce
0:10:53 > 0:10:56and then when they're bubbling I let them cook for about 15 minutes.
0:10:56 > 0:10:57No more.
0:11:00 > 0:11:04Before I serve I always like to taste, just to check the seasoning,
0:11:04 > 0:11:08and if I feel it needs it I add some parsley.
0:11:09 > 0:11:12You can eat the meatballs with whatever you like,
0:11:12 > 0:11:15but I would be sacked by my family if I didn't serve them with spaghetti.
0:11:21 > 0:11:23Right.
0:11:23 > 0:11:27OK. This is what you made, guys.
0:11:27 > 0:11:29You made this, didn't you, you two?
0:11:29 > 0:11:30They did.
0:11:35 > 0:11:37Anyway, it's delicious.
0:11:38 > 0:11:44OK, I have managed to wrap a meatball in pasta.
0:11:44 > 0:11:46Can I model for you?
0:11:46 > 0:11:48That's very good work.
0:11:48 > 0:11:51Did you start with the meatball and wrap round?
0:12:08 > 0:12:11I am so much more a girls' night in,
0:12:11 > 0:12:14rather than a girls' night out kind of a person.
0:12:14 > 0:12:15- Hello.- Hello.
0:12:15 > 0:12:18Obviously, if I have a friend coming over in the week
0:12:18 > 0:12:20I'm not up to any heavy lifting in the kitchen,
0:12:20 > 0:12:24but if I can, I love to go out and buy a special ingredient
0:12:24 > 0:12:26so I can rustle up a treat.
0:12:26 > 0:12:29Today espresso liqueur is calling me.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32I will be seeing you soon. Bye.
0:12:32 > 0:12:33Bye-bye.
0:12:33 > 0:12:35Since the person coming over has got a sweet tooth,
0:12:35 > 0:12:39pudding is a priority. I'm making my tiramusini.
0:12:39 > 0:12:43As you might imagine this is a version of tiramisu.
0:12:43 > 0:12:46One of the great virtues of this version
0:12:46 > 0:12:49is that it takes only moments to rustle up.
0:12:49 > 0:12:53I start off with some savoiardi, which are like ladies' fingers.
0:12:53 > 0:12:58I break these into pieces and drop them at the bottom of some glasses.
0:12:58 > 0:13:02I add some espresso liqueur to some freshly made but cooled espresso,
0:13:02 > 0:13:04though any strong coffee would do,
0:13:04 > 0:13:08and then I pour this over the sponge fingers.
0:13:14 > 0:13:16Just to help the soaking process start,
0:13:16 > 0:13:19I do squish the biscuits down into the liquid.
0:13:24 > 0:13:27To make the topping I start off by breaking an egg
0:13:27 > 0:13:30and then I whisk the egg white until it is frothily thick.
0:13:37 > 0:13:40I put some mascarpone into a large bowl
0:13:40 > 0:13:45and then I drizzle over some Marsala, followed by some sticky honey
0:13:45 > 0:13:48and then beat altogether with a wooden spoon.
0:13:52 > 0:13:57Finally I fold the egg whites into the mascarpone mixture.
0:13:57 > 0:14:02And then I spoon this light topping onto the biscuits.
0:14:02 > 0:14:05And I try to create a kind of whipped-up effect,
0:14:05 > 0:14:09which will look so beautiful when I dust them with cocoa later.
0:14:14 > 0:14:17But for now I just stick them in the fridge,
0:14:17 > 0:14:19and unlike a proper big tiramisu,
0:14:19 > 0:14:22my tiramusini needs no more than 20 minutes.
0:14:34 > 0:14:38So pudding's sorted and it's so luscious and creamy
0:14:38 > 0:14:41that I want something with a little feistiness and fire first.
0:14:41 > 0:14:46I'm talking about my simple, speedy seafood with chilli and marjoram.
0:14:51 > 0:14:54Right, I have my squid and my prawns. I always keep a stash of them
0:14:54 > 0:14:57in the deep freeze and they're thawed and ready to go.
0:14:57 > 0:15:02Always good to top up on parsley and obviously I'm after some marjoram.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08Really sweet and delicate, but it won't be overwhelmed
0:15:08 > 0:15:11by the chilli peppers or their gorgeous red rasp.
0:15:19 > 0:15:23If there's one thing I like better than a seafood supper,
0:15:23 > 0:15:27it's a seafood supper that has red chilli in it.
0:15:27 > 0:15:30That fire sets it off so well.
0:15:30 > 0:15:34I'm going to attempt to get rid of most of the seeds,
0:15:34 > 0:15:39but I like some left behind. It can't really be too hot.
0:15:39 > 0:15:44You could, I suppose, and I have done, use dried red chilli flakes,
0:15:44 > 0:15:48but for me it's something about that Chinese lacquer red
0:15:48 > 0:15:51of the fresh chilli cut into little strips.
0:15:51 > 0:15:55And now this is like the Golden Triangle of flavour.
0:15:57 > 0:16:01In a wok or any big pan, really, put some oil...
0:16:05 > 0:16:08..and then let me amass my weapons.
0:16:08 > 0:16:12I want garlic and I want lemon and I need a grater.
0:16:12 > 0:16:17So, in goes the chilli.
0:16:17 > 0:16:21I might leave a bit to be sprinkled over the squid and prawns later.
0:16:25 > 0:16:28Now this, this I can't stop doing
0:16:28 > 0:16:33and that's grating lemon zest into hot oil when I cook.
0:16:36 > 0:16:39All of the flavours really of a lemon really are in the zest,
0:16:39 > 0:16:42all of the oils. And they permeate the cooking oil,
0:16:42 > 0:16:46which in turn permeates the food it cooks.
0:16:46 > 0:16:50And what's more, it scents the room beautifully.
0:16:52 > 0:16:57Beautiful. Now the garlic.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00Not so beautiful to look at than that gorgeous yellow,
0:17:00 > 0:17:02but, oh, what a smell, what a taste.
0:17:14 > 0:17:17Chilli, lemon, garlic, these are my heavy hitters,
0:17:17 > 0:17:21but I want some delicacy too for herbs.
0:17:21 > 0:17:26I've got marjoram, which I think of as the softer-skinned cousin
0:17:26 > 0:17:30to oregano with a slightly sweeter disposition.
0:17:32 > 0:17:36You get more of an aniseed hint from the marjoram, actually.
0:17:36 > 0:17:38Always good in my book.
0:17:38 > 0:17:42How about parsley as well, let's not neglect that.
0:17:42 > 0:17:44A bit of iron, A bit of vitamin C.
0:17:53 > 0:17:56And fling some of this in the pan now.
0:18:06 > 0:18:11So we're moments away now, cos this takes hardly any time to cook.
0:18:11 > 0:18:12I've got my prawns...
0:18:16 > 0:18:20..which I'm tempted to call shrimp because it goes better with my squid.
0:18:21 > 0:18:27For me this is absolutely the perfect girls' night in.
0:18:29 > 0:18:35A good chat. A good supper and a bottle of rose wine.
0:18:35 > 0:18:37Or if I'm feeling macho, maybe some cold beer.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46You don't need to use a wok. I mean, after all,
0:18:46 > 0:18:50a wok is scarcely an Italian piece of equipment,
0:18:50 > 0:18:54but I'm a messy cook and it makes spillage less likely.
0:18:56 > 0:19:02The lemon zest does really flavour everything, but now it's the turn of the juice.
0:19:02 > 0:19:07And why I want this is because I want a light
0:19:07 > 0:19:11but still fiery and zingy seafood gravy.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25There's something about the drama of this, the pink coral prawns,
0:19:25 > 0:19:31the white squid with the red chilli and the green herbs
0:19:31 > 0:19:33against this black rice.
0:19:34 > 0:19:37It's very, very easy to cook.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41It's sturdy so you don't have to fear over-cooking it.
0:19:41 > 0:19:46And all I do is put a cup of black rice in the pan,
0:19:46 > 0:19:51cover it with a cup and a half of cold water and bring it to the boil.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55And once it comes to the boil I turn it down really low and clamp on a lid
0:19:55 > 0:19:59and leave it to cook until the rice has absorbed all of the water.
0:20:01 > 0:20:05I'm going to heap the seafood over the rice,
0:20:05 > 0:20:10and I have to say that this is one of those suppers that probably,
0:20:10 > 0:20:14in fact definitely, takes longer to eat than to cook,
0:20:14 > 0:20:16and I am a fast eater.
0:20:34 > 0:20:37A bit more herbs.
0:20:41 > 0:20:43The remaining bit of chilli.
0:20:46 > 0:20:53I will put the rest of this crimson confetti in here.
0:20:53 > 0:20:56As far as I'm concerned we can crack open the wine
0:20:56 > 0:20:58and we're ready to eat.
0:21:06 > 0:21:08Now, Julie, we have squiddles.
0:21:08 > 0:21:13- Oh, delicious, thank you.- Rose. - Thank you. That looks lovely.
0:21:19 > 0:21:21I want to get my hair like this one day.
0:21:21 > 0:21:25- Don't you think she looks divine? - Mmm, gorgeous.- Isn't he fantastic?
0:21:51 > 0:21:55Some restaurants have after-dinner martinis on their menu.
0:22:01 > 0:22:04I kind of think these look like after-dinner martinis,
0:22:04 > 0:22:08only in lusciously edible form.
0:22:08 > 0:22:14Just letting just enough cocoa settle on those peaks.
0:22:14 > 0:22:18And also it gives a bit bitterness, which is perfect after supper.
0:22:21 > 0:22:27- Especially for you.- This looks delicious. Thank you.
0:22:27 > 0:22:30- What is this called?- It's tiramusini, little baby tiramisu.
0:22:38 > 0:22:41Oh, it's really strong at the bottom. It's nice.
0:22:41 > 0:22:43It is, isn't it?
0:22:43 > 0:22:47When you go to the best bits. A bit of double coffee,
0:22:47 > 0:22:49- like a double espresso.- Yeah, that's quite right.
0:23:13 > 0:23:17Although I take a lot of comfort from old traditions,
0:23:17 > 0:23:20it is very exciting seeing new traditions emerge.
0:23:20 > 0:23:24I've recently learnt of a way of cooking pasta in Italy,
0:23:24 > 0:23:27all the rage, that goes against absolutely everything
0:23:27 > 0:23:32I've ever been taught about how to cook pasta by Italians.
0:23:32 > 0:23:34I'm starting off with some garlic oil.
0:23:35 > 0:23:40Now I'm making a pea and pancetta risotto, no rice is involved,
0:23:40 > 0:23:42but we'll come to that.
0:23:42 > 0:23:46So, here goes with some pancetta. Quite a lot.
0:23:49 > 0:23:54It's a very good night-time standby. Anytime standby.
0:23:57 > 0:24:01So once my pancetta cubes are bronzed and crisp,
0:24:01 > 0:24:04I'm going to add my frozen peas. No need to thaw them.
0:24:09 > 0:24:10In they go.
0:24:12 > 0:24:19I want to mix these into the pancetta just so they lose their frozen look
0:24:19 > 0:24:23and maybe suck in some of those gorgeous salty juices.
0:24:25 > 0:24:30You will be amazed by the fact, I think,
0:24:30 > 0:24:33that I'm cooking my pasta straight here in the pan.
0:24:33 > 0:24:37I said it was a pasta risotto and actually I'm using pasta
0:24:37 > 0:24:41that looks like rice, although it's called orzo.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43In it goes.
0:24:48 > 0:24:55So whereas normally you have to bring copious amounts of water to the boil
0:24:55 > 0:25:00and then tip in some pasta, now I put the pasta in... Hmm.
0:25:00 > 0:25:05I'm hungry. And add some water. And I think it's often easier to do this by ratios.
0:25:05 > 0:25:09So I've got about a cup and a quarter of that pasta,
0:25:09 > 0:25:15and I'm going to add about twice that, two-and-a-half cups of water.
0:25:15 > 0:25:17Recently boiled, in it goes.
0:25:23 > 0:25:28I mean this takes about half the time to cook than risotto
0:25:28 > 0:25:30and there's no stirring.
0:25:32 > 0:25:34I'm just doing this now just to coax it along.
0:25:35 > 0:25:36Add a bit of salt.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42And all I'm going to do is let this come to a boil
0:25:42 > 0:25:44and then turn it down to a simmer.
0:25:44 > 0:25:47It will be cooked when all the water is absorbed
0:25:47 > 0:25:50and you'll see my new modish way of cooking pasta.
0:25:50 > 0:25:53Very sciccoso, as they say in Italy.
0:26:06 > 0:26:11Now it's all ready and I'm not going to drain it.
0:26:11 > 0:26:15The whole point is the starch from the pasta
0:26:15 > 0:26:20has oozed out into the scant bit of cooking liquid that remains,
0:26:20 > 0:26:22forming its own creamy sauce.
0:26:23 > 0:26:26Normally you just throw the starchy water down the sink.
0:26:27 > 0:26:33I'm going to add a little teeny bit of added gloss with some butter
0:26:33 > 0:26:37and you've got to have some grated parmesan.
0:26:37 > 0:26:41It's the perfect thing to cook when you're tired
0:26:41 > 0:26:44and your children are tired.
0:26:47 > 0:26:49Mmm.
0:26:54 > 0:26:57PASTA SLOSHES
0:26:59 > 0:27:05That sound just makes me feel soothed and I'm salivating.
0:27:07 > 0:27:10My Italian friends tell me this way of cooking pasta
0:27:10 > 0:27:13is all the rage in Italy right now.
0:27:16 > 0:27:19In this goes.
0:27:24 > 0:27:26More for later.
0:27:41 > 0:27:45Eating this is like being wrapped in a warm cosy blanket.
0:27:58 > 0:28:00I love its tender jade tangle.
0:28:01 > 0:28:04Benissimo!
0:28:04 > 0:28:05It's time to add these beauties.
0:28:09 > 0:28:12You just need to dive straight into the dolce.
0:28:15 > 0:28:18Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd