Sourdough

Download Subtitles

Transcript

0:00:02 > 0:00:05In Britain, we eat nearly 9 million loaves of bread every day,

0:00:05 > 0:00:08most of them bought in bakeries, shops and markets.

0:00:08 > 0:00:11But I reckon some of the very best bread you can eat

0:00:11 > 0:00:14is the bread you bake yourself.

0:00:14 > 0:00:18Great taste. Earthy, rich, full of history -

0:00:18 > 0:00:21that's the way all bread should be made.

0:00:21 > 0:00:23I think every home is improved by it,

0:00:23 > 0:00:27so I want to show you that making bread in your own kitchen is

0:00:27 > 0:00:30much more satisfying than buying a loaf.

0:00:30 > 0:00:33Because it is a feast for your family and your senses.

0:00:34 > 0:00:37'The smell of it, the feel of it...'

0:00:37 > 0:00:39Beautiful stuff!

0:00:39 > 0:00:41'..the look of it...'

0:00:41 > 0:00:44Not like the ones you buy in the shops, it's more special than that.

0:00:44 > 0:00:47'..the sound of it...'

0:00:47 > 0:00:49This is a beautiful loaf.

0:00:49 > 0:00:51'..and the taste of it.'

0:00:51 > 0:00:53Wow!

0:00:54 > 0:00:56It just tastes so good, you've got to try it.

0:00:58 > 0:01:01I want to show you that making bread is simple, really.

0:01:01 > 0:01:06You mix, knead, prove,

0:01:06 > 0:01:10shape, prove again, then finally, bake.

0:01:15 > 0:01:18Some loaves I show you may seem complicated

0:01:18 > 0:01:21but with time and focus, you can grasp them all

0:01:21 > 0:01:24as I will guide you every step of the way.

0:01:24 > 0:01:27Once you've mastered them, I'm going to reveal how

0:01:27 > 0:01:31bread can be much more than just a loaf - it can be a meal in itself.

0:01:31 > 0:01:33One of the only things that'll keep my mouth shut!

0:01:35 > 0:01:39So, there's no excuses. Get baking!

0:01:45 > 0:01:48We've made many kinds of bread in this series,

0:01:48 > 0:01:52but now it's time for the daddy of bread-making, sourdough.

0:01:52 > 0:01:56Appreciating sourdough is like appreciating a fine wine

0:01:56 > 0:01:57or a single malt.

0:01:57 > 0:02:00Once you have the taste of it, you're going to want more.

0:02:02 > 0:02:06Classic sourdough has a distinctive look, a dark, heavy crust

0:02:06 > 0:02:09and a tangy, slightly sour taste.

0:02:14 > 0:02:17There is a little more art to making sourdough than other breads,

0:02:17 > 0:02:20but trust me, it's worth the effort.

0:02:20 > 0:02:22Oh, dear!

0:02:22 > 0:02:26I'll show you how to make a French style fougasse,

0:02:26 > 0:02:28sourdough bagels

0:02:28 > 0:02:30and a white chocolate and raspberry loaf,

0:02:30 > 0:02:33transformed into a summer pudding.

0:02:33 > 0:02:36If there is one recipe that you need to make before you die,

0:02:36 > 0:02:38it's that one.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41But let's start with a classic sourdough loaf.

0:02:41 > 0:02:45Most of the breads I've made before have used either yeast

0:02:45 > 0:02:48or bicarb or baking powder to rise it.

0:02:48 > 0:02:50But did you know there's yeast in the air?

0:02:50 > 0:02:54What I'm going to show you is how to harness that to make a sourdough.

0:02:54 > 0:02:58But to start your bread, you need to make what we call a starter,

0:02:58 > 0:03:00or "levain", the French call it.

0:03:01 > 0:03:04In standard breads, dried or fresh yeast is used to turbo-charge

0:03:04 > 0:03:07the creation of air bubbles in dough.

0:03:08 > 0:03:10By contrast,

0:03:10 > 0:03:13a sourdough starter encourages the slow growth of natural

0:03:13 > 0:03:18yeast organisms already present in the flour and in the air.

0:03:20 > 0:03:26For your starter culture, you need 250 grams of strong white flour.

0:03:26 > 0:03:32I'm going to add to this five seedless green grapes.

0:03:32 > 0:03:34Chop them up roughly.

0:03:35 > 0:03:39This fruit will ferment and ensures the starter liquid is

0:03:39 > 0:03:43the perfect environment for natural yeast to grow.

0:03:43 > 0:03:46It's best to use organic fruit, as it is free from chemicals

0:03:46 > 0:03:50and will ferment better. The last thing I add to this is water.

0:03:50 > 0:03:54Equal amounts of flour to water and stir it together to form a batter.

0:03:56 > 0:03:58When these ingredients are mixed together,

0:03:58 > 0:04:01they attract the wild yeast around them.

0:04:01 > 0:04:03It reminds me of having tadpoles when I was a kid!

0:04:03 > 0:04:05I don't know what it is.

0:04:05 > 0:04:08I think most kids do this, certainly most of the lads I knew did it.

0:04:10 > 0:04:13Seal the jar and leave it to ferment.

0:04:13 > 0:04:16Little bubbles of carbon dioxide will form

0:04:16 > 0:04:18and natural yeast will develop.

0:04:18 > 0:04:22And like any other living thing, it needs to be fed.

0:04:22 > 0:04:26It's like giving birth to a new pet. Think of that as your new pet.

0:04:29 > 0:04:34After a couple of days, it begins to grow. To this.

0:04:34 > 0:04:38The bacteria has begun to multiply and it smells alive,

0:04:38 > 0:04:42it smells slightly vinegary. And that's why we call it sourdough.

0:04:44 > 0:04:48Discard half of this mixture, then pour the remainder into a bowl

0:04:48 > 0:04:52and feed your new pet with more flour and water.

0:04:52 > 0:04:55You do this to keep it continually fresh and active.

0:04:56 > 0:05:00So it perpetually exists, it never dies.

0:05:00 > 0:05:03I've even heard of a place which is a "sour hotel", where people

0:05:03 > 0:05:06when they go on holiday are so worried about their sourdough

0:05:06 > 0:05:10dying, they used to give these jars to the people in the hotel

0:05:10 > 0:05:13and they would feed it for them! I mean, what a fantastic idea.

0:05:14 > 0:05:18Return your starter to its jar and leave it for a few more days.

0:05:20 > 0:05:22So, this is a six-day one now.

0:05:22 > 0:05:25It's like opening up a bottle of lemonade, it begins to bubble.

0:05:25 > 0:05:28That fizz, that effervescence, it's telling you it's alive

0:05:28 > 0:05:30and it's ready to use.

0:05:30 > 0:05:33This is your starter, this is your live yeast,

0:05:33 > 0:05:35which you can use in replacement of yeast in your breads.

0:05:35 > 0:05:40So what I'm going to do now is make a loaf using this starter.

0:05:43 > 0:05:47You can see how lively it is, it's popping as you put it into the bowl.

0:05:47 > 0:05:51From now on, it's almost exactly the same process as other breads.

0:05:55 > 0:05:59Add 370 grams of strong white flour to your 250 grams of sourdough

0:05:59 > 0:06:02starter and most of the water.

0:06:04 > 0:06:05Bring the dough together,

0:06:05 > 0:06:08with the salt dissolved in the rest of the water.

0:06:08 > 0:06:11It's just easier, because it goes throughout the whole dough, as liquid.

0:06:11 > 0:06:16Then begin to manipulate the dough, tuck it in from the outside in.

0:06:16 > 0:06:20Just do this for a couple of minutes. A little bit of oil.

0:06:20 > 0:06:23You're beginning to make your first sourdough.

0:06:32 > 0:06:37After ten minutes of good kneading, you have a smooth, elastic,

0:06:37 > 0:06:39lively dough.

0:06:39 > 0:06:42Little bit of olive oil, just to stop it sticking too much.

0:06:42 > 0:06:43Get your dough.

0:06:44 > 0:06:49Now, the difference when you're rising sourdough - it takes longer.

0:06:49 > 0:06:52It's not as active as the shop-bought yeast.

0:06:55 > 0:06:57It'll take several hours to rise,

0:06:57 > 0:07:00but making sourdough is something you fit around your life.

0:07:02 > 0:07:03The smell is incredible.

0:07:03 > 0:07:07It's tangy, it's fruity, it's slightly vinegary, it's earthy.

0:07:07 > 0:07:10It's so different from making it with yeast.

0:07:10 > 0:07:13Like any dough, it needs to be knocked back.

0:07:13 > 0:07:14But this is a wet dough

0:07:14 > 0:07:19and it needs a little help to hold its shape during the second rise.

0:07:21 > 0:07:24This is what we call a banetton. It's basically a wicker basket.

0:07:24 > 0:07:25It's quite traditional in France

0:07:25 > 0:07:28to use this sort of mould to rise the bread.

0:07:28 > 0:07:30If you haven't got a banetton, you can prove it in a bowl,

0:07:30 > 0:07:33if you want, with plenty of oil or plenty of flour,

0:07:33 > 0:07:35just to prevent it from sticking.

0:07:35 > 0:07:39Ball of dough goes upside down into the banetton.

0:07:39 > 0:07:42So, the rough bit's on the top. A little flour on the top of that.

0:07:42 > 0:07:45Now it needs to rise again. Pop it inside there.

0:07:45 > 0:07:47Tuck it up to go to sleep for a bit.

0:07:47 > 0:07:50Anything between three, five hours, leave it alone.

0:07:56 > 0:08:01Once the dough has doubled in size, gently tip it out onto

0:08:01 > 0:08:04a baking tray, dusted with flour and semolina.

0:08:04 > 0:08:07This will prevent it from spreading out too much.

0:08:07 > 0:08:09Draw a knife across the top to help it bloom.

0:08:11 > 0:08:13Do not underbake a sourdough.

0:08:13 > 0:08:17You want that lovely and dark, heavy crust.

0:08:17 > 0:08:21220 degrees for about 25 minutes, half an hour, drop it down to 200

0:08:21 > 0:08:24and leave it in there for another 20 minutes to really crisp up.

0:08:28 > 0:08:30Nice and crisp, perfect sourdough.

0:08:30 > 0:08:32That's the way all bread should be made.

0:08:39 > 0:08:43You can eat this gorgeous sourdough as it is, just with butter.

0:08:43 > 0:08:46But for me, it makes the best toast in the world.

0:08:50 > 0:08:54And there is no better way to start Sunday than with a delicious

0:08:54 > 0:08:59brunch of creamy scrambled eggs, grilled Parma ham and tomatoes.

0:09:03 > 0:09:06Rich, tangy, sweet.

0:09:06 > 0:09:09But it has to be done with sourdough -

0:09:09 > 0:09:12it's the only thing that will carry the flavour through to blend

0:09:12 > 0:09:16with the Parma ham and the egg. It's just simply delicious.

0:09:25 > 0:09:28The rise in artisan bakeries is bringing

0:09:28 > 0:09:30sourdough into fashion in this country.

0:09:30 > 0:09:33But Scandinavia and Eastern Europe have always sustained

0:09:33 > 0:09:35a tradition of sourdough,

0:09:35 > 0:09:38particularly in their dark rye breads.

0:09:40 > 0:09:43I've come to Essex, where Nadia Gencas

0:09:43 > 0:09:46and the team at the Karaway Bakery are baking traditional breads

0:09:46 > 0:09:50from Lithuania, Russia and all over Eastern Europe.

0:09:50 > 0:09:54I love this style of bread in particular, I love the taste of it.

0:09:54 > 0:09:56And I love the look of it.

0:09:56 > 0:10:00My eye is drawn to an elaborate celebration loaf.

0:10:00 > 0:10:03In Russia, it is a very, very old, popular tradition to welcome

0:10:03 > 0:10:08guests with a loaf of decorated bread with salt in the middle.

0:10:08 > 0:10:10- Can you eat that, though?- Yes, you can.

0:10:10 > 0:10:13The decorations are a bit hard, but yes, you can eat it.

0:10:13 > 0:10:17The breads are dark in colour, but the thing that is really striking is

0:10:17 > 0:10:22how aromatic they are, infused with cinnamon, coriander and caraway.

0:10:22 > 0:10:23Smells amazing.

0:10:23 > 0:10:27They also use some unusual techniques.

0:10:27 > 0:10:30- This is Lithuanian scalded rye. - Scalded rye?- Scalded rye.

0:10:30 > 0:10:33Tell me a little more about it, it's absolutely fascinating.

0:10:33 > 0:10:38Scalding of bread - this is where you scald your flour, and some

0:10:38 > 0:10:42other ingredients, maybe malt and caraway seed, with boiling water.

0:10:42 > 0:10:46It sounds fascinating, the idea of boiling the contents of the loaf.

0:10:46 > 0:10:49So, what's the benefit of scalding at this stage?

0:10:49 > 0:10:51It retains the moisture for longer

0:10:51 > 0:10:53and the bread stays fresher for longer.

0:10:56 > 0:10:59Once the scalded rye, malt and caraway dough has cooled,

0:10:59 > 0:11:02the head baker adds a rye sourdough starter

0:11:02 > 0:11:04and the mixture is left to ferment.

0:11:07 > 0:11:11The fermented dough is mixed with more flour,

0:11:11 > 0:11:14then a second flavourful rye sourdough starter.

0:11:14 > 0:11:17The fact that you are adding different grades of sour is

0:11:17 > 0:11:20fascinating. And then, you end up with a lighter loaf.

0:11:22 > 0:11:26And finally, the secret to the dark, characteristic colour -

0:11:26 > 0:11:28roasted and liquid malt.

0:11:30 > 0:11:34The dough is thoroughly mixed and left to ferment again.

0:11:36 > 0:11:40The head baker then kneads and shapes the dough.

0:11:40 > 0:11:42It gets a final prove.

0:11:43 > 0:11:46And then, the bread is ready for baking.

0:11:50 > 0:11:52- What's this?- That is our dry calamus leaves.

0:11:52 > 0:11:57This plant is very fragrant and it adds to the fragrance of the loaves.

0:12:01 > 0:12:05It's got such a gorgeous flavour. It is light as well, and it's moist.

0:12:05 > 0:12:06Mm. Yeah, indeed.

0:12:06 > 0:12:09I was expecting something quite dry and heavy and it just isn't.

0:12:09 > 0:12:12That would actually make a great sandwich.

0:12:12 > 0:12:17We love it with roast beef, with some horseradish and some salad,

0:12:17 > 0:12:21or with smoked salmon and capers and dill.

0:12:21 > 0:12:22I think it's gorgeous.

0:12:29 > 0:12:32Making sourdough is all about the flavour of the bread.

0:12:33 > 0:12:37And you can use my basic recipe to make the most stunning

0:12:37 > 0:12:41tea-time loaf. This is a sourdough with a sweet twist.

0:12:41 > 0:12:44What I'm going to do to the basic sourdough is to add raspberries

0:12:44 > 0:12:47and white chocolate.

0:12:47 > 0:12:50You won't have tasted anything like it before, I promise.

0:12:51 > 0:12:54To start with, you need to get your sourdough,

0:12:54 > 0:13:00which again has been fed, risen and ready. And smells fantastic.

0:13:00 > 0:13:05250 grams of the sour into a bowl. Bubbling mess!

0:13:05 > 0:13:08That needs to be fed now and left for the following day

0:13:08 > 0:13:10so you can make something else with it.

0:13:12 > 0:13:15So, in goes the flour and some of the water,

0:13:15 > 0:13:18dissolve salt in the rest. This is a sweet loaf, but you still need salt.

0:13:18 > 0:13:20No salt in the dough retards the dough

0:13:20 > 0:13:23and prevents it from working properly.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26Blend all ingredients together and knead for ten minutes.

0:13:26 > 0:13:29Then leave the dough to prove in an oiled bowl,

0:13:29 > 0:13:34until it has at least doubled in size. There we have it.

0:13:34 > 0:13:38A lively little dough there. At this stage, it's a basic sour.

0:13:38 > 0:13:42Once the dough has proved and the gluten structure has formed,

0:13:42 > 0:13:44it's time for some flavours.

0:13:44 > 0:13:46We have the sharpness from the raspberry

0:13:46 > 0:13:48and that lovely flavour, but you also have

0:13:48 > 0:13:49that beautiful, creamy sweetness,

0:13:49 > 0:13:51which is inherent in white chocolate.

0:13:57 > 0:14:00I'm using fresh raspberries but please don't use the frozen ones,

0:14:00 > 0:14:03because they tend to give off too much moisture.

0:14:05 > 0:14:07If you find the dough is getting too wet,

0:14:07 > 0:14:10add a sprinkle of flour to bring it back.

0:14:19 > 0:14:22That flour will help to soak up the moisture

0:14:22 > 0:14:24coming from the raspberries.

0:14:24 > 0:14:27Now I'm going to prove this up into a banetton.

0:14:27 > 0:14:29You can get most of these baskets online.

0:14:29 > 0:14:32You could use a tin, but you're not going to get

0:14:32 > 0:14:34the finish that we want with the lines on the top.

0:14:34 > 0:14:37Plenty of flour in there. Roll it up.

0:14:37 > 0:14:40Rough side goes straight on the top.

0:14:40 > 0:14:43This needs to prove and rise again now, which will take

0:14:43 > 0:14:44another three to four hours,

0:14:44 > 0:14:47depending on the temperature of your kitchen.

0:14:50 > 0:14:53On the baking tray, put a bit of semolina -

0:14:53 > 0:14:57this will stop it from skidding too much on the surface.

0:14:58 > 0:15:01There you have it. It's a wet liquid,

0:15:01 > 0:15:03so it's sitting down and beginning to float.

0:15:03 > 0:15:06It will carry on flowing a little bit in the oven,

0:15:06 > 0:15:09and then it'll bake and it'll be absolutely beautiful, I promise.

0:15:09 > 0:15:12Bake this at 220 for 20 minutes.

0:15:12 > 0:15:15Drop it down to 190 for at least another 20 to 25 minutes

0:15:15 > 0:15:17and that will build up the crust.

0:15:31 > 0:15:32That is delicious.

0:15:32 > 0:15:35The tang coming from the sourdough, and that creaminess coming from

0:15:35 > 0:15:38the chocolate and then you get the hint of the raspberry.

0:15:38 > 0:15:41A little bit of butter, cup of tea, job done.

0:15:41 > 0:15:43I mean, that is just...

0:15:43 > 0:15:46For me, it's one of my best loaves I've ever made.

0:15:46 > 0:15:48They just taste so good. You've got to try it.

0:15:48 > 0:15:52This sourdough loaf is versatile.

0:15:52 > 0:15:55You can eat it as it is or my favourite thing

0:15:55 > 0:15:58is to transform it into a summer pudding crammed with fruit

0:15:58 > 0:16:01and served with white chocolate cream.

0:16:07 > 0:16:10Tip some raspberries and your favourite mixed berries

0:16:10 > 0:16:14into a pan, add some sugar and a little raspberry liqueur.

0:16:14 > 0:16:17Warm the mixture through until the sugar is dissolved

0:16:17 > 0:16:19and the fruit has begun to break down.

0:16:21 > 0:16:23Take off the heat and allow to cool.

0:16:23 > 0:16:26Slice the bread and cut off the crusts.

0:16:26 > 0:16:28Line a well-buttered bowl with the slices of bread

0:16:28 > 0:16:31and don't leave any gaps.

0:16:31 > 0:16:33Pour in the fruit compote.

0:16:35 > 0:16:37And cover with a little more bread.

0:16:38 > 0:16:42Wrap the bowl well and put a plate on top to weigh it down.

0:16:42 > 0:16:44After a few hours in the fridge,

0:16:44 > 0:16:47the juices will have seeped into the bread and set the pudding.

0:16:47 > 0:16:50So all you have to do now is cross your fingers.

0:16:50 > 0:16:52This is going to be something very special.

0:16:56 > 0:17:00It looks like raspberry ripple and it will taste absolutely divine.

0:17:03 > 0:17:07Serve with a white chocolate and mascarpone cream.

0:17:09 > 0:17:11I've been looking forward to this.

0:17:11 > 0:17:16If there is one recipe that you need to make before you die...

0:17:17 > 0:17:18..it is that one.

0:17:19 > 0:17:20This is mine.

0:17:23 > 0:17:25This and other recipes in the series

0:17:25 > 0:17:28can be found at the BBC Food website.

0:17:29 > 0:17:31Sourdough is very versatile.

0:17:31 > 0:17:34It can make sweet breads, everyday breads

0:17:34 > 0:17:36and anything you would normally rise with yeast.

0:17:36 > 0:17:39It takes a bit more time and dedication

0:17:39 > 0:17:41but the word is spreading.

0:17:42 > 0:17:44It might be 5,000 years old

0:17:44 > 0:17:48but sourdough is the beating heart of the artisan bread revolution.

0:17:52 > 0:17:53'I'm in Hackney, east London,

0:17:53 > 0:17:57'at the E5 Bakehouse with Ben Mackinnon and his bakers,

0:17:57 > 0:18:01'where the sourdough permeates not just bread but the air.'

0:18:01 > 0:18:03I've just had one of your coffees

0:18:03 > 0:18:05and I could actually taste the sourdough in the coffee.

0:18:05 > 0:18:08- Come off it! - No, no, you could smell it.

0:18:08 > 0:18:10'There's real passion in the baking here.'

0:18:10 > 0:18:13That's the Route 66 - 66% rye.

0:18:13 > 0:18:15Route 66?!

0:18:15 > 0:18:19'And they're entirely dedicated to the enjoyment of sourdough.'

0:18:19 > 0:18:22Commercial yeasts can do it all a lot faster

0:18:22 > 0:18:25but the sourdough gives really fantastic flavour

0:18:25 > 0:18:27and then there's a bit more art and creativity to it.

0:18:27 > 0:18:30You're looking after it and it also improves its keeping qualities.

0:18:30 > 0:18:34- I think it's better for you, sourdough bread, you know.- Yes.

0:18:34 > 0:18:35It makes it more digestible

0:18:35 > 0:18:38because you've given the dough that kind of time to develop.

0:18:38 > 0:18:40'As well as their own signature loaves,

0:18:40 > 0:18:42'Ben and his team make

0:18:42 > 0:18:44'sourdough versions of several classic breads -

0:18:44 > 0:18:49'baguettes, ciabatta and, unusually, bagels.'

0:18:49 > 0:18:51- Can you tell me, Ben, how you actually make the bagel?- Sure.

0:18:51 > 0:18:55- Got a white, 100% white, sourdough leaven here.- Ye.

0:18:55 > 0:18:57You take a small amount, about 100 grams

0:18:57 > 0:19:01and about the same amount of water which is quite warm.

0:19:01 > 0:19:06And then a few grams of malt extract, about ten grams of sugar.

0:19:06 > 0:19:08- A bit of feeding yeast. - Yeah, exactly.

0:19:08 > 0:19:11And I'm just going to grab a bit of fresh yeast, as well.

0:19:14 > 0:19:17This is a strong white bread flour.

0:19:17 > 0:19:19The thing with the bagels is you just want a really strong dough

0:19:19 > 0:19:22- so the stronger the better.- Yeah.

0:19:22 > 0:19:24The kind of trick that we incorporate

0:19:24 > 0:19:26is we don't instantly knead them for a long time.

0:19:26 > 0:19:30We just let it rest for 20 minutes so the yeast can get really active.

0:19:34 > 0:19:36This has had the 20-minute rest and you can see the gas

0:19:36 > 0:19:38has built up in there, the CO2.

0:19:38 > 0:19:41- It's quite active, actually. - Yes, quite nice and active.

0:19:41 > 0:19:46Knocked back and very quickly you'll see the glutens tightening up

0:19:46 > 0:19:48- and I can't really stretch it any more.- Yes.

0:19:48 > 0:19:49We knead them every 15 minutes.

0:19:49 > 0:19:54- Yeah. Is that how you mould the cob? - Yeah.- It's an interesting technique.

0:19:54 > 0:19:56- I can never do it like that. - How would you do it?

0:19:58 > 0:20:00- Just do it one.- OK.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03The reason was, when I was a kid in the bakery, my dad used to go,

0:20:03 > 0:20:06"Hang on, son. You've got two hands there."

0:20:06 > 0:20:08So we'd have to be going like that otherwise he'd say,

0:20:08 > 0:20:11"I'll pay you half your wages." I went, "Oh, thanks very much, Dad."

0:20:11 > 0:20:14When we do them two-handed, we need the other one to work off.

0:20:14 > 0:20:17- You can push one against... Yes, exactly.- And bring them together?

0:20:17 > 0:20:19I would tend to push that way

0:20:19 > 0:20:21because you're going that way, aren't you?

0:20:21 > 0:20:23You're driving it together.

0:20:25 > 0:20:27'And after all that kneading and resting,

0:20:27 > 0:20:31'it's time to portion up the bagel dough and roll it into balls.'

0:20:31 > 0:20:33- You scale it up and I'll do it. - All right.

0:20:39 > 0:20:40They're all right, Paul, but, um...

0:20:47 > 0:20:51Poke your finger into the middle, work the two fingers like that

0:20:51 > 0:20:55to try and open it up and then just finish off with a bit of a spin.

0:20:55 > 0:20:56An interesting way of doing it.

0:20:58 > 0:21:02'I love working in this kind of open kitchen atmosphere.

0:21:02 > 0:21:03'It really takes me back.'

0:21:03 > 0:21:06When I first started, my dad was the first person in the country

0:21:06 > 0:21:08- to open up an in-store bakery. - Oh, really?

0:21:08 > 0:21:10I'd get shouted at by the customers.

0:21:10 > 0:21:12They'd go, "Eh, love!" Obviously in Liverpool.

0:21:12 > 0:21:15"Eh, love, get that loaf, just bang it to the back of the oven for me

0:21:15 > 0:21:17"for ten minutes and burn the ... out of it."

0:21:17 > 0:21:18- I went, "Absolutely."- Cool.

0:21:18 > 0:21:23But it's that communication between you and your customer

0:21:23 > 0:21:26- because that's been broken down now. - Yes.- I love that.

0:21:29 > 0:21:32'These little beauties need to prove for an hour and a half

0:21:32 > 0:21:34'before being plunged into boiling water

0:21:34 > 0:21:36'with a little bicarbonate of soda dissolved in it.'

0:21:36 > 0:21:38This just puffs it up, doesn't it?

0:21:38 > 0:21:42It forces the yeast to work, bang, and sort of explode and it puffs up.

0:21:42 > 0:21:44Yeah. So we give them about 30 seconds on each side

0:21:44 > 0:21:47just to give them that kind of chewy skin.

0:21:47 > 0:21:51'The bagels are then baked for 20 minutes until they're golden brown.'

0:21:55 > 0:21:57They look lovely, them. I love the colour.

0:21:57 > 0:21:59They're good. A good tan on the top.

0:21:59 > 0:22:01The crusts will soften when they're left to rest.

0:22:01 > 0:22:05It does make a difference with that bicarb in the water as well.

0:22:05 > 0:22:08They've got quite a nice, tight crumb there.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11They smell delicious. What shall we put with this?

0:22:11 > 0:22:13I've got some cream cheese and some blackberries.

0:22:19 > 0:22:23- That's lovely. I'm enjoying that. - Good, isn't it? Yeah.- Yeah.

0:22:23 > 0:22:26The chewiness and that earthiness that comes from the bagel -

0:22:26 > 0:22:28being the sour - really adds to the flavour of that.

0:22:28 > 0:22:31- Mm.- Then you hit that creaminess of the cheese

0:22:31 > 0:22:34and that little bit of sharpness coming from the blackberries.

0:22:34 > 0:22:35- Nice one, Ben.- Cheers.

0:22:35 > 0:22:36BEN CHUCKLES

0:22:44 > 0:22:46'Bagels are often served with smoked salmon

0:22:46 > 0:22:49'and my next bread also goes fabulously with fish.'

0:22:49 > 0:22:54Sourdough is a flavourful bread and works best with big flavours.

0:22:54 > 0:22:57Give us a couple of the tuna steaks, please.

0:22:57 > 0:22:59'I'm going to make a substantial,

0:22:59 > 0:23:01'brightly coloured, tuna Nicoise salad...'

0:23:01 > 0:23:02- Thank you.- Thank you.

0:23:02 > 0:23:05'..packed with bold flavours and served alongside

0:23:05 > 0:23:09'an olive-stuffed sourdough loaf made to tear and share.'

0:23:09 > 0:23:14The Italians have their focaccia but the French have their fougasse.

0:23:14 > 0:23:18Fougasse is a flat bread that's shaped and cut like a leaf

0:23:18 > 0:23:20and it's a beautiful, crispy loaf.

0:23:20 > 0:23:24I'm going to do a fougasse and I'm going to stuff it with

0:23:24 > 0:23:26green and black olives and oregano.

0:23:34 > 0:23:38'This starts with the same classic sourdough recipe I used before.

0:23:41 > 0:23:43'And it's been kneaded and proved.'

0:23:46 > 0:23:48And this one has taken four hours.

0:23:48 > 0:23:51It's got a bit of life in there now. It's lovely.

0:23:51 > 0:23:54The structure is amazing. A good stretch on it.

0:23:54 > 0:23:58And what I'm going to add to this is some oregano, dried oregano.

0:23:58 > 0:24:02Fresh doesn't work as well, dried is more concentrated.

0:24:02 > 0:24:05And then black and green olives.

0:24:05 > 0:24:07If you don't particularly like black,

0:24:07 > 0:24:09you can use all green in this if you want.

0:24:09 > 0:24:12Because I'm adding a bit of moisture, a dusting of flour

0:24:12 > 0:24:15and then begin to push

0:24:15 > 0:24:20the dough from the outside into the middle as we incorporate the olives.

0:24:29 > 0:24:31What a mess! Just roll it round in the flour a bit.

0:24:35 > 0:24:37This will make two fougasse.

0:24:37 > 0:24:39I'm using a little bit of semolina -

0:24:39 > 0:24:41it adds a little bit of crispiness.

0:24:41 > 0:24:47Fingers in and begin to stretch... the dough out.

0:24:47 > 0:24:48What you're looking for

0:24:48 > 0:24:50is like a window with a flat bottom at this stage.

0:24:50 > 0:24:52Do the same with this one.

0:24:54 > 0:24:55Use your fingers.

0:24:57 > 0:24:58Now we've got the basic shape,

0:24:58 > 0:25:02gather it up, lift and drop.

0:25:02 > 0:25:05All the shaping, basic shaping, now, can be done on here

0:25:05 > 0:25:08because it's got a good coating of semolina or flour underneath it.

0:25:11 > 0:25:12Get your pizza wheel.

0:25:12 > 0:25:15Cutting four slashes on an angle

0:25:15 > 0:25:18to make it look a bit like a leaf.

0:25:18 > 0:25:21Then try and open it out a little bit.

0:25:21 > 0:25:23'The fougasse loaves need to prove again

0:25:23 > 0:25:25'until they've doubled in size.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28'Throw a little water into a roasting tin in the oven

0:25:28 > 0:25:32'to create some steam, then bake the loaves for about 20 minutes

0:25:32 > 0:25:34'until they're golden brown.

0:25:42 > 0:25:46'Traditionally you'd expect a salad Nicoise to feature olives

0:25:46 > 0:25:50'but I've put my olives in the fougasse as well as in

0:25:50 > 0:25:52'the olive tapenade into which you can dip the bread.

0:25:55 > 0:25:58'The tapenade is so quick and easy.

0:25:58 > 0:26:03'Put some garlic, lemon juice, anchovies, black olives

0:26:03 > 0:26:06'and capers in a blender.

0:26:06 > 0:26:07'Add some Dijon mustard,

0:26:07 > 0:26:11'olive oil and basil, then blitz until you've got a rough paste.'

0:26:11 > 0:26:12It's an olive-fest.

0:26:14 > 0:26:18Then you scoop it up and you get that crunchy exterior of the bread

0:26:18 > 0:26:21and the softness of the tapenade. Absolutely perfect.

0:26:21 > 0:26:22'And now for the salad.

0:26:22 > 0:26:24'Rip some baby gem lettuce

0:26:24 > 0:26:28'and place in a bowl with some sliced, cooked new potatoes,

0:26:28 > 0:26:33'blanched green beans, baby plum tomatoes and capers.

0:26:33 > 0:26:37'Shake up a simple dressing of Dijon mustard, white wine vinegar,

0:26:37 > 0:26:40'olive oil and lemon juice.

0:26:40 > 0:26:42'Toss the whole salad together.

0:26:42 > 0:26:44'Just get your hands in there.

0:26:44 > 0:26:47'Then arrange it all on a board with halved boiled eggs.'

0:26:47 > 0:26:50It's one of those beautiful dishes that you just dip in, dip out,

0:26:50 > 0:26:52a glass of wine, chat to your friends.

0:26:52 > 0:26:57'Finally, oil and season the tuna steaks, then seal on a hot griddle,

0:26:57 > 0:26:59'leaving them a bit pink in the middle.

0:27:00 > 0:27:03'Slice the steaks and arrange on top of the salad.'

0:27:06 > 0:27:09So there have it - your beautiful tapenade,

0:27:09 > 0:27:11your gorgeous, crispy fougasse,

0:27:11 > 0:27:14your tuna Nicoise salad,

0:27:14 > 0:27:16a little drizzle of olive oil.

0:27:16 > 0:27:18Beautiful.

0:27:18 > 0:27:22'All the salad needs now is a hungry baker to help me eat it.'

0:27:25 > 0:27:28Here you are, Ben. It's your turn to try my stuff. Help yourself.

0:27:28 > 0:27:30- Rip into that.- Thanks. Got a really nice colour on there.

0:27:30 > 0:27:32I love this. It's one of my favourites.

0:27:32 > 0:27:34- Mm.- You like it? - It's really good, yeah.

0:27:34 > 0:27:36It's crispy, isn't it? It's fresh.

0:27:36 > 0:27:38The olives in there are juicy

0:27:38 > 0:27:41with this strong sour kicking in as well.

0:27:41 > 0:27:45A nice sort of soft crumb. Good crust. I really enjoy that.

0:27:49 > 0:27:50And obviously you are passionate it.

0:27:50 > 0:27:53I am passionate about the whole environment of it

0:27:53 > 0:27:56as much as the bread. It's like the process of making it.

0:27:56 > 0:27:57You almost don't want to sell it.

0:27:57 > 0:27:59But it's nice to give it to somebody.

0:27:59 > 0:28:02- Yes.- It's quite nice that they come and buy it.- That's true.

0:28:02 > 0:28:03- Cheers, mate.- Cheers.

0:28:06 > 0:28:10'I hope you now feel confident about having a go at sourdough.'

0:28:10 > 0:28:13Think of THAT as your new pet.

0:28:13 > 0:28:15'I've shown you how to make sourdough starter

0:28:15 > 0:28:17'from which you can make any kind of sourdough,

0:28:17 > 0:28:21'all sharing the distinctive flavour from the slow prove.

0:28:21 > 0:28:24'Next time, I'll show you how to make

0:28:24 > 0:28:26'some of the quickest breads in the business.

0:28:26 > 0:28:28'Brilliant for people with busy lives.

0:28:28 > 0:28:31'It's soda bread - a crusty Irish classic.

0:28:31 > 0:28:35'A hearty British stew with cheesy scone topping,

0:28:35 > 0:28:37'and a twist on a breakfast classic -

0:28:37 > 0:28:40'eggs Benedict served on a crumpet.'

0:28:40 > 0:28:41I just hope they like it.

0:28:55 > 0:28:58Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd