Episode 11

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0:00:02 > 0:00:04Sometimes in baking, you've got to go backwards to go forwards,

0:00:04 > 0:00:07so today I'm revisiting the classics.

0:00:07 > 0:00:09I'm using a medieval ingredient in my pie,

0:00:09 > 0:00:10recreating an ancient pudding,

0:00:10 > 0:00:13and celebrating the way our mothers used to bake.

0:00:24 > 0:00:26Welcome to Pies & Puds for another helping

0:00:26 > 0:00:29of Britain's heartiest comfort food.

0:00:29 > 0:00:31For me, it's the best grub going.

0:00:33 > 0:00:37'Today, I'm stepping back in time to delve into the history

0:00:37 > 0:00:39'of the mysteriously-named pond pudding.'

0:00:39 > 0:00:41Normally, I'll eat anything.

0:00:41 > 0:00:43I'm a bit nervous about this!

0:00:43 > 0:00:47'And I'll be creating my modern and devilishly decadent version.'

0:00:47 > 0:00:49Wow.

0:00:49 > 0:00:51My kitchen is your kitchen.

0:00:51 > 0:00:53'Tom Kerridge shows me how to rustle up

0:00:53 > 0:00:55'his mum's bread and butter pudding

0:00:55 > 0:00:57'with a touch of Michelin star magic.'

0:00:57 > 0:00:59- Did your mum have one of them? - No, she didn't!

0:01:02 > 0:01:04Pork and apple is a match made in heaven,

0:01:04 > 0:01:07'so I'm making a scrumptious pork and apple pie'

0:01:07 > 0:01:11but with a very special and a very ancient ingredient called verjus.

0:01:12 > 0:01:16This is a sage and apple verjus.

0:01:18 > 0:01:21And more recipe classics from the Hollywood archive.

0:01:21 > 0:01:23This time it's jam tarts and ginger biscuits,

0:01:23 > 0:01:26courtesy of my own mother.

0:01:26 > 0:01:27- Have you not made these before?- No!

0:01:31 > 0:01:34And all my recipes are on the BBC website.

0:01:41 > 0:01:44I love the part that pies and puds play in our food heritage.

0:01:44 > 0:01:47Many of them are based on centuries-old, traditional recipes,

0:01:47 > 0:01:50and Sussex pond pudding is the most ancient of puddings,

0:01:50 > 0:01:53so I decided to roll back the years.

0:01:55 > 0:01:58But what is a pond pudding?

0:01:58 > 0:02:00I've come to the historic Michelham Priory

0:02:00 > 0:02:04'in the heart of Sussex to meet archaeologist Dr Alex Langlands

0:02:04 > 0:02:06'who, I hope, can help me get to the bottom

0:02:06 > 0:02:08'of this curiously-named dish.'

0:02:08 > 0:02:10- You're a Sussex boy, aren't you? - Yes, that's right.

0:02:10 > 0:02:12I grew up on the other side of the marsh here.

0:02:12 > 0:02:14As an archaeologist and historian,

0:02:14 > 0:02:18I'm always interested in Sussex life, Sussex archaeology,

0:02:18 > 0:02:20and Sussex food as well.

0:02:20 > 0:02:23It's specifically about the pond pudding.

0:02:23 > 0:02:25I mean, what do you know about it?

0:02:25 > 0:02:28Well, I mean, I've always heard it talked about when I was a kid

0:02:28 > 0:02:32and it's always conjured up ideas of sludgy water, you know,

0:02:32 > 0:02:35pond water and something that isn't particularly tasty.

0:02:35 > 0:02:38But having raked around amongst a few recipes,

0:02:38 > 0:02:40it's got a very basic structure.

0:02:40 > 0:02:44A big ball of butter is encased in a suet crust pastry,

0:02:44 > 0:02:48and the name, we think, comes from the idea that you cut this

0:02:48 > 0:02:52pudding open and it's then surrounded by this pond of melted butter.

0:02:52 > 0:02:56The original medieval ingredients of butter and suet

0:02:56 > 0:03:00still remain, but over the years the recipe has evolved.

0:03:00 > 0:03:03Here we go, Paul. Medieval kitchen.

0:03:03 > 0:03:07Dr Alex has got some ingredients, and I think I know what's in store.

0:03:07 > 0:03:10I'm beginning to feel the reason why I'm here.

0:03:10 > 0:03:12I'm going to be making some pastry.

0:03:12 > 0:03:15- You're going to be making some pastry, Paul, yes.- Right.

0:03:15 > 0:03:18Alex has rummaged through the history books for three recipes.

0:03:18 > 0:03:22One from the medieval times, another from the 18th century,

0:03:22 > 0:03:26and one dating from post-war rationing in the early 1950s.

0:03:26 > 0:03:29The medieval pudding is made from a suet dough,

0:03:29 > 0:03:31wrapped around a lump of butter.

0:03:31 > 0:03:35That's a lot of butter to go inside something which is so ancient.

0:03:35 > 0:03:37It's full of fat really, isn't it?

0:03:37 > 0:03:40This is going to give us the taste of authentic medieval Sussex.

0:03:40 > 0:03:43- Absolutely.- That's great to see it coming together.

0:03:43 > 0:03:46By the 18th century, the Georgians were importing

0:03:46 > 0:03:48exotic new flavours from abroad,

0:03:48 > 0:03:53so their recipe adds dried fruit and spices such as nutmeg.

0:03:53 > 0:03:55One 18th-century pond pudding.

0:03:55 > 0:03:57- You see, it's akin to a spotted dick.- Mm.

0:04:00 > 0:04:03Next up is the 1950s version.

0:04:03 > 0:04:05This recipe uses a whole lemon in the middle.

0:04:07 > 0:04:10Flavoured with brown sugar and a pinch of cinnamon.

0:04:10 > 0:04:12- The connoisseur's touch.- Yes.

0:04:13 > 0:04:16With our three puddings wrapped and ready to go,

0:04:16 > 0:04:18it's time to get cooking.

0:04:18 > 0:04:21Back in medieval times, they didn't have ovens,

0:04:21 > 0:04:23so Alex has recreated a medieval stove

0:04:23 > 0:04:26on the lawn of Michelham Priory.

0:04:26 > 0:04:27The plunge.

0:04:27 > 0:04:29Leave the string out there.

0:04:29 > 0:04:30On it goes.

0:04:35 > 0:04:38And after two hours, our puddings are ready.

0:04:39 > 0:04:43All right. Still bubbling there, but a nice, low heat.

0:04:43 > 0:04:44Normally, I'll eat anything.

0:04:44 > 0:04:47I'm bit nervous about this.

0:04:47 > 0:04:49- They're not looking too bad.- No.

0:04:49 > 0:04:53OK, so this is our, our medieval...

0:04:54 > 0:04:56This is the one I'm really looking forward to.

0:04:56 > 0:04:59'Time for the moment of truth. Will our medieval pudding make a pond?'

0:04:59 > 0:05:02- OK.- There you go.- Right.

0:05:05 > 0:05:06Oh, hang on.

0:05:07 > 0:05:09It's butter that's soaked into the dough.

0:05:09 > 0:05:13I think our pond has run dry, Paul. Go on, give it a try then, go on.

0:05:22 > 0:05:25- It doesn't actually taste too bad. - No.

0:05:28 > 0:05:31I'm saying that so my head...

0:05:31 > 0:05:32But actually...

0:05:32 > 0:05:34It actually doesn't taste too...

0:05:34 > 0:05:35Do know what? That's medieval.

0:05:35 > 0:05:37That's 11th-century.

0:05:37 > 0:05:41'Next, the 18th-century pudding with the dried fruits and spices.'

0:05:41 > 0:05:45- Now, that looks more like a pudding, doesn't it?- Yeah.

0:05:45 > 0:05:48'And again not a drop of ponding butter in sight.'

0:05:48 > 0:05:53- That's better.- Better, yeah? - Yeah, it's like a Christmas pudding.

0:05:53 > 0:05:54- That's how it should be.- Mm.

0:05:56 > 0:06:00'And finally the 1950s lemon and cinnamon version.'

0:06:00 > 0:06:03I'm going to try and cut it right down the middle.

0:06:03 > 0:06:05Yeah. Take it away.

0:06:09 > 0:06:11- Well?- It's like the medieval one...

0:06:11 > 0:06:13- but with lemon.- OK.

0:06:13 > 0:06:16So, I think we've taken a step back.

0:06:18 > 0:06:19'So, there we have it,

0:06:19 > 0:06:22'three Sussex pond puddings from three different centuries,

0:06:22 > 0:06:27'but the common theme, a distinct lack of, well, pond.

0:06:27 > 0:06:29'I wonder if I can do any better myself.'

0:06:35 > 0:06:37- Hi, Alex, welcome to the kitchen. - Hi.

0:06:37 > 0:06:39I had a great time making that pond pudding,

0:06:39 > 0:06:41which wasn't so much of a pond,

0:06:41 > 0:06:43but we decided it could have been something else.

0:06:43 > 0:06:44Yeah, that's right.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47I mean, having gone back to the historical sources, in fact,

0:06:47 > 0:06:51one of the earliest recipes, which is 1672,

0:06:51 > 0:06:53refers to a pudding being cut open

0:06:53 > 0:06:55and there being a POUND of butter in there.

0:06:55 > 0:06:58Not a POND of butter.

0:06:58 > 0:07:02- So, I think we've done a bit of revision there...- Well done, Alex.

0:07:02 > 0:07:04..and we're rewriting the culinary history of Sussex.

0:07:04 > 0:07:05Easy as that, really.

0:07:05 > 0:07:08What I'm going to make is a chocolate and orange

0:07:08 > 0:07:10version of pond pudding.

0:07:10 > 0:07:14'I'm making a sweet suet pastry by adding the zest of one orange

0:07:14 > 0:07:16'to some self-raising flour.

0:07:16 > 0:07:19'Then, throw in some cocoa powder, caster sugar

0:07:19 > 0:07:22'and lastly some finely-grated suet.

0:07:22 > 0:07:24'Mix the ingredients together by hand,

0:07:24 > 0:07:27'then pour in a little milk to bring it all together.'

0:07:27 > 0:07:29Don't be afraid to get your hands in there,

0:07:29 > 0:07:30because at the end of the day,

0:07:30 > 0:07:33you remember when you're mixing pastries and doughs

0:07:33 > 0:07:37what it should feel like. That is perfect.

0:07:37 > 0:07:39'Once the dough has come together,

0:07:39 > 0:07:41'work it a little to build up the gluten.'

0:07:41 > 0:07:43Now, I want to line this bowl now

0:07:43 > 0:07:46with this beautiful, suet chocolate pastry.

0:07:46 > 0:07:47Now, what I've got here...

0:07:47 > 0:07:51I've got my dish, which has been lined with that beautiful pastry.

0:07:51 > 0:07:53Now all I need to do is get the filling in there.

0:07:53 > 0:07:56- I've got the butter here. - Now, that's good to see.

0:07:56 > 0:08:00Butter's important for me, you're messing with a Sussex tradition here.

0:08:00 > 0:08:02And I think the thing that's keeping it real for Sussex

0:08:02 > 0:08:04is the butter.

0:08:04 > 0:08:06Actually, in The Diary Of A Georgian Shopkeeper,

0:08:06 > 0:08:09he said he ate a pudding which had so much butter in it,

0:08:09 > 0:08:11you could have drowned a pig in it.

0:08:11 > 0:08:14- Really?- Yeah, so you need a lot of butter.

0:08:14 > 0:08:16Right. I've got a load of butter in there.

0:08:16 > 0:08:18I've put brown sugar in there, as well.

0:08:18 > 0:08:20I've got orange, which I'm going to

0:08:20 > 0:08:24- stab to release all those flavours of the orange in there.- Yeah.

0:08:24 > 0:08:26I love oranges.

0:08:26 > 0:08:27And so this is where you think your pond

0:08:27 > 0:08:29is going to come from, do you think?

0:08:29 > 0:08:31This and the fact of the melting butter and the sugar,

0:08:31 > 0:08:34- which is going to turn almost like a toffee.- Yeah, lovely.

0:08:34 > 0:08:36Now, that goes in there, right in the middle,

0:08:36 > 0:08:39'Pack the pudding with the rest of the butter and sugar,

0:08:39 > 0:08:40'some dark chocolate,

0:08:40 > 0:08:42'and finally the lid.'

0:08:43 > 0:08:45There you have it, that's our basic pond pudding.

0:08:47 > 0:08:51Pop the paper over the top, fold it down the side.

0:08:51 > 0:08:53Happy with that.

0:08:53 > 0:08:55Now, get a load of string.

0:08:55 > 0:08:57So, what I've done, I've just tied it round

0:08:57 > 0:09:00and I'm just making a little carrier on the top.

0:09:00 > 0:09:03'And, as if by magic, here's one I made earlier.'

0:09:04 > 0:09:08There we have it. I'm going to cut off the string.

0:09:08 > 0:09:09Take away the lid.

0:09:11 > 0:09:13PAUL CHUCKLES

0:09:15 > 0:09:16Plate.

0:09:18 > 0:09:21That looks like an ancient pudding straightaway.

0:09:21 > 0:09:23But do you reckon this'll pond?

0:09:23 > 0:09:26It looks the part, it really does.

0:09:26 > 0:09:28And if it ponds, all the better.

0:09:28 > 0:09:30'Drum roll please!'

0:09:30 > 0:09:34DRUM ROLL

0:09:36 > 0:09:37That...

0:09:38 > 0:09:42..is a chocolate and orange pond pudding.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46We're going to have to wait a little bit longer to try it.

0:09:46 > 0:09:49That smells delicious, though.

0:09:52 > 0:09:57'There you have it, a Hollywood adaptation of a medieval classic.

0:09:57 > 0:10:00'My indulgent chocolate orange pond pudding,

0:10:00 > 0:10:02'complete with a fruity, oozy core.

0:10:02 > 0:10:04'Sussex, this one's for you.'

0:10:12 > 0:10:15There are lots of dishes I cook now

0:10:15 > 0:10:17that bring back wonderful childhood memories

0:10:17 > 0:10:19and there's nothing better than home cooking,

0:10:19 > 0:10:23especially a meal made by your mum. Is there, Tom?

0:10:23 > 0:10:26Nothing better than one done by your mum, no.

0:10:26 > 0:10:28Now, you've got some ingredients here

0:10:28 > 0:10:32that I know what this is going to be and I love this.

0:10:32 > 0:10:35This is an absolute classic.

0:10:35 > 0:10:36It's bread and butter pudding.

0:10:36 > 0:10:38It's one of the dishes me mum used to make on a Sunday.

0:10:38 > 0:10:41She called it bread pudding, not bread and butter pudding.

0:10:41 > 0:10:43- That's the difference, I think. - Well, listen, mate,

0:10:43 > 0:10:45- my kitchen is your kitchen. - Thank you very much.- Welcome.

0:10:45 > 0:10:48Anything you want to know where it is, just let me know

0:10:48 > 0:10:50- and I'll sort it out.- OK. First thing, sliced white bread.

0:10:50 > 0:10:53- Now, you could use flashy bread. - No, you don't.

0:10:53 > 0:10:54Exactly. My sentiments exactly.

0:10:54 > 0:10:58You don't want that, you want sliced white bread, sandwichy stuff...

0:10:58 > 0:10:59Yeah, and proper butter.

0:10:59 > 0:11:01And proper butter and don't be shy.

0:11:01 > 0:11:03This is what I think people really want.

0:11:03 > 0:11:07Yeah, it's proper homely food. It's stuff that people understand.

0:11:07 > 0:11:08But it's getting the simple things right.

0:11:08 > 0:11:12Like fresh nutmeg for me, freshly grated on and a lot...

0:11:12 > 0:11:13- I've never had that, though.- Really?

0:11:13 > 0:11:15It would have been a powder for me in a jar

0:11:15 > 0:11:18that's probably sitting at the back of me mum's cupboard

0:11:18 > 0:11:20- for about six years. - That's it, exactly.

0:11:20 > 0:11:22Me mum's would've been the same.

0:11:22 > 0:11:24You've got your mum's recipe and given it a 21st-century kick.

0:11:24 > 0:11:29Yeah, that's it, pretty much, yeah. Me mum would be very pleased with it.

0:11:29 > 0:11:32'Tom cuts his buttered bread into triangles

0:11:32 > 0:11:35'and starts on the all-important custard.'

0:11:35 > 0:11:39So, I've got a pint of double cream. A vanilla pod, just been scraped

0:11:39 > 0:11:41and the seeds go in.

0:11:41 > 0:11:45I've got eight free-range, lovely, yellow yolks and some caster sugar.

0:11:45 > 0:11:48- That's really yolky, that one, isn't it?- It's really yolky, yeah.

0:11:48 > 0:11:50This is the thing that will kind of thicken.

0:11:50 > 0:11:52Is there anything you've taken from your mum

0:11:52 > 0:11:56which you've taken to the pub to cook and it's been a massive hit?

0:11:56 > 0:12:01It's not dishes as such, it's an attitude.

0:12:01 > 0:12:03My mum didn't have very much money, it was a single-parent family,

0:12:03 > 0:12:05but when my mum cooked, she cooked properly,

0:12:05 > 0:12:07so whether it was a stew or spaghetti Bolognese

0:12:07 > 0:12:09or whatever else, that attitude to food

0:12:09 > 0:12:12being true and lovely and flavoursome,

0:12:12 > 0:12:15rather than the cheap option on going down frozen packets

0:12:15 > 0:12:18or whatever else. I mean, that attitude to food

0:12:18 > 0:12:21is one that has definitely been installed in me.

0:12:21 > 0:12:25That understanding of trying to make sure that food is loved and cared for

0:12:25 > 0:12:27- and is fun, as well. - Yeah, exactly.

0:12:29 > 0:12:31When the double cream comes to the boil,

0:12:31 > 0:12:35Tom pours it onto the eggs and sugar and whisks thoroughly.

0:12:35 > 0:12:38Tom pours some of the custard into a lined oven-proof tray,

0:12:38 > 0:12:41and adds a sprinkling of raisins

0:12:41 > 0:12:43He layers the buttered bread into the tray

0:12:43 > 0:12:46with the alternate layers of custard and raisins

0:12:46 > 0:12:48before leaving it to sit for 20 minutes.

0:12:49 > 0:12:54He then bakes it at 130 degrees for 25 to 30 minutes

0:12:54 > 0:12:56until the custard is set.'

0:12:56 > 0:12:58And this one has just been cooked.

0:12:58 > 0:13:00PAUL CHUCKLES

0:13:00 > 0:13:03You see, it's just set, there's a bit of runny custard underneath.

0:13:03 > 0:13:04Nothing wrong with that.

0:13:04 > 0:13:08But the bread has just absorbed all that custard flavour.

0:13:08 > 0:13:12I'm going to give it a sprinkling of demerara sugar.

0:13:12 > 0:13:14- You love food, don't you? - I absolutely love it.

0:13:14 > 0:13:17I think it's the best thing ever.

0:13:17 > 0:13:20- Did your mum have one of them? - No, she didn't!

0:13:20 > 0:13:21No, she didn't have a blowtorch.

0:13:21 > 0:13:25- A lighter?- Yes, she had a lighter and really dodgy grill.

0:13:25 > 0:13:27I remember my mum's dodgy grill,

0:13:27 > 0:13:29and she's still got the same oven, me mum. I must get her...

0:13:29 > 0:13:32I'll get you a new oven, Mum! It is awful!

0:13:34 > 0:13:37A Michelin-starred chef caramelising his sugar

0:13:37 > 0:13:40on a bread and butter pudding.

0:13:40 > 0:13:42What more do you want?

0:13:42 > 0:13:45- For me, you can't beat that. - You're a legend, mate.

0:13:45 > 0:13:48An absolute legend. Can't wait to tuck into that.

0:13:48 > 0:13:52Tom's mum's bread and butter pudding is an absolute classic,

0:13:52 > 0:13:55and the addition of fresh nutmeg and caramelised sugar

0:13:55 > 0:13:57makes this a truly sweet treat.

0:14:05 > 0:14:06My next recipe is a pie

0:14:06 > 0:14:09using one of those legendary food combinations -

0:14:09 > 0:14:10pork and apple.

0:14:14 > 0:14:16But I want to add something different

0:14:16 > 0:14:17to give it an extra punch.

0:14:17 > 0:14:20I've been told of a magical medieval ingredient

0:14:20 > 0:14:24that fits the bill and there are just a few people who still make it.

0:14:25 > 0:14:30This is Richard Perton, one of the very few producers in Britain

0:14:30 > 0:14:34making this unusual ingredient that's got so many chefs excited.

0:14:34 > 0:14:36So what exactly is it?

0:14:36 > 0:14:41Verjus is the juice of any unripe fruit that is used in cooking.

0:14:42 > 0:14:46Biting into unripe fruit tastes sour and acidic, but this flavour,

0:14:46 > 0:14:50known as verjus, was popular in kitchens for centuries.

0:14:50 > 0:14:55However, as the world developed, it was replaced and forgotten.

0:14:55 > 0:15:00But what I really want to know is how this unusual ingredient is used.

0:15:00 > 0:15:02Verjus can be used for all sorts of cooking.

0:15:02 > 0:15:07It's fantastic in savoury dishes with pork, oily fish, duck,

0:15:07 > 0:15:09even in vegetarian dishes, and it's wonderful in desserts.

0:15:09 > 0:15:12You can concentrate it down and drop it on desserts,

0:15:12 > 0:15:15you can use it to add even more apple-yness to apple pie,

0:15:15 > 0:15:19you can make a fantastic sorbet out of it.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21Blackberry isn't right for my pork and apple pie,

0:15:21 > 0:15:24but sage will complement the ingredients perfectly,

0:15:24 > 0:15:28so Richard's preparing a sage-infused apple verjus

0:15:28 > 0:15:29just for me.

0:15:29 > 0:15:31I'm going to chuck the whole bottle in.

0:15:31 > 0:15:34I'm going to put the lid on this, put it in the fridge overnight

0:15:34 > 0:15:37and, fingers crossed,

0:15:37 > 0:15:40it'll make a really good apple and sage verjus,

0:15:40 > 0:15:42which will be perfect for Paul.

0:15:42 > 0:15:44I've never come across verjus before,

0:15:44 > 0:15:47but I can't wait to give it a whirl in my pie.

0:15:51 > 0:15:53I had no idea what verjus was.

0:15:53 > 0:15:56Apparently, it's been around for a long, long time.

0:15:56 > 0:15:59Yeah, well, it sort of originated way back in Mesopotamia.

0:15:59 > 0:16:01In fact, they still use it a lot

0:16:01 > 0:16:03in the Middle East and it's called husroum.

0:16:03 > 0:16:05So, which one do you recommend that we try here?

0:16:05 > 0:16:07Well, in order to taste it first of all,

0:16:07 > 0:16:09I would just start off with just the plain verjus,

0:16:09 > 0:16:12and then you can try the sage one if you like, to see

0:16:12 > 0:16:15if the sage levels are going to be right for your dish.

0:16:15 > 0:16:17So you wouldn't normally have this as a drink.

0:16:17 > 0:16:20- This is in addition to something, a sauce, or...- Yeah, yeah.

0:16:20 > 0:16:22You use it instead of lemon juice or vinegar

0:16:22 > 0:16:24in a sauce or in a dressing.

0:16:24 > 0:16:26Can I have a little taste, then, please?

0:16:26 > 0:16:28So, it was really when lemons and limes

0:16:28 > 0:16:30came around from abroad

0:16:30 > 0:16:32that this whole thing became, well, not obsolete,

0:16:32 > 0:16:35but it certainly quietened down and then died away slowly?

0:16:35 > 0:16:40Yeah, because before that, the need to get sour things into cooking

0:16:40 > 0:16:43was such that, you know, there was only really vinegar

0:16:43 > 0:16:45and lemons for a short period in certain parts of Europe,

0:16:45 > 0:16:47when they were in season.

0:16:47 > 0:16:48Straightaway, you can tell it's apple.

0:16:48 > 0:16:51Certainly, the aftertaste tells you what it is.

0:16:51 > 0:16:53But you've got this very peppery flavour to it,

0:16:53 > 0:16:54sharpness to it as well,

0:16:54 > 0:16:57and it does sort of dance around your tongue quite a bit, doesn't it?

0:16:57 > 0:16:59Yeah, and there's a bit of grassiness there as well,

0:16:59 > 0:17:01from the greenness of the apples.

0:17:01 > 0:17:02I'm going to show you how to do a dish.

0:17:02 > 0:17:06So, what I'm going to do is a pork and apple pie,

0:17:06 > 0:17:08but I'm using a very different type of pastry.

0:17:08 > 0:17:10'To start my pie filling,

0:17:10 > 0:17:14'I've sweated off some diced onions and celery until soft.

0:17:14 > 0:17:16'I then put the softened vegetables aside

0:17:16 > 0:17:20'and melt some butter with a splash of oil in the same pan.'

0:17:20 > 0:17:22Pork and apple's a marriage made in heaven, isn't it?

0:17:22 > 0:17:24I mean, the good thing, particularly about

0:17:24 > 0:17:25the sharpness of this apple

0:17:25 > 0:17:27is that it cuts through any of the oil

0:17:27 > 0:17:30that might be in the pork, any of the fat in the pork,

0:17:30 > 0:17:33and balances it out perfectly.

0:17:33 > 0:17:37'Next, sear the chunks of pork in hot butter and oil.

0:17:37 > 0:17:38'Once the pork has been browned,

0:17:38 > 0:17:42'return the onion and celery mixture to the pan.

0:17:42 > 0:17:45'Next, add some flour to the pan to coat the meat,

0:17:45 > 0:17:48'which will also help thicken the sauce later.'

0:17:48 > 0:17:50Beautiful.

0:17:50 > 0:17:53I'm then going to add my cider and chicken stock.

0:17:57 > 0:18:00The smell of this is incredible!

0:18:00 > 0:18:02'Next, roughly chop your apples

0:18:02 > 0:18:05'and add them to the pan along with some sage.'

0:18:05 > 0:18:07Give it a bit of a stir.

0:18:07 > 0:18:10'Cook everything down for 45 minutes and allow to cool.'

0:18:11 > 0:18:15Let's run through the pastry ingredients. This is unusual.

0:18:15 > 0:18:17'Adding the cider and the olive oil first,

0:18:17 > 0:18:20'I'm putting in the ingredients the wrong way around.'

0:18:20 > 0:18:22Egg straight in.

0:18:22 > 0:18:23Whisk this up a little bit.

0:18:25 > 0:18:28'I add baking powder and three quarters of the flour

0:18:28 > 0:18:29'and mix thoroughly.'

0:18:29 > 0:18:30This is really odd.

0:18:30 > 0:18:33Because you're adding so much olive oil to this,

0:18:33 > 0:18:35the pastry actually looks like a hot water crust pastry.

0:18:35 > 0:18:37Now add the rest of the flour.

0:18:37 > 0:18:38Stir this around.

0:18:40 > 0:18:42'When the dough has come together,

0:18:42 > 0:18:44'turn it out and fold a couple of times.

0:18:48 > 0:18:50'Chill the dough in the fridge

0:18:50 > 0:18:53'then rest at room temperature for five minutes.'

0:18:53 > 0:18:55There you have it.

0:18:55 > 0:18:59The pastry is almost sweating with the amount of olive oil in there.

0:18:59 > 0:19:02'Break off a small piece and roll into a long, thin strip

0:19:02 > 0:19:04'to form the rim of the pie.'

0:19:04 > 0:19:07This will help the lid bind to this when you put it in the oven.

0:19:08 > 0:19:12There you go. I've got my mix here.

0:19:12 > 0:19:15That's been cooled and is ready to go inside.

0:19:15 > 0:19:21But I'm also going to add... This is the sage and apple verjus.

0:19:21 > 0:19:24Give it a little bit of a mix round together.

0:19:24 > 0:19:26I'm really looking forward to this dish.

0:19:26 > 0:19:29This floats my boat, this.

0:19:29 > 0:19:30Pork and apple.

0:19:30 > 0:19:32Ooh! Come here!

0:19:34 > 0:19:37Fill your pie dish around the funnel with your mixture.

0:19:37 > 0:19:40Then, rolling out the remaining pastry, cover the pie,

0:19:40 > 0:19:43making sure to leave a hole for the funnel.

0:19:43 > 0:19:46Then trim the edges and finish with a little crimping.

0:19:47 > 0:19:48There you have it.

0:19:49 > 0:19:51A very beautiful-looking pie.

0:19:51 > 0:19:55'Before baking, brush the top of the pie with a beaten egg

0:19:55 > 0:19:58'and bake at 200 Celsius for 30 to 35 minutes.'

0:19:58 > 0:20:02I've got one in here that's been cooking for about that time now.

0:20:05 > 0:20:07- Look at that.- It looks fantastic.

0:20:07 > 0:20:11That smells absolutely gorgeous.

0:20:11 > 0:20:15Now that is a proper pork and apple cider pie,

0:20:15 > 0:20:19with sage and apple verjus.

0:20:19 > 0:20:22"The juice," if you're in Kent.

0:20:22 > 0:20:25My pork and apple pie is a match made in heaven,

0:20:25 > 0:20:27and the addition of the verjus

0:20:27 > 0:20:29elevates it to a whole new level.

0:20:37 > 0:20:40'Earlier, Tom Kerridge made me a bread and butter pudding,

0:20:40 > 0:20:42'a dish he learnt from his mum.

0:20:42 > 0:20:46'Now, he's got a surprise for me. It's a letter from my mum.'

0:20:46 > 0:20:50- And this is some recipes from your mum.- From my mum?

0:20:50 > 0:20:52From your mum.

0:20:52 > 0:20:54'It's instructions for my next baking challenge.'

0:20:54 > 0:20:57A jam tart. She's written, "Terribly difficult. You do the grams."

0:20:57 > 0:20:58She's written it all in ounces!

0:20:58 > 0:21:00THEY LAUGH

0:21:00 > 0:21:02Then she's got ginger biscuits.

0:21:02 > 0:21:08OK, I'm going to create my mum's tea-time treats.

0:21:08 > 0:21:11They are ginger biscuits and jam tarts and I'll see what you think.

0:21:11 > 0:21:13Love 'em.

0:21:13 > 0:21:15'I've been baking professionally for years

0:21:15 > 0:21:18'and I can rustle up a loaf with my eyes shut,

0:21:18 > 0:21:21'but having to do justice to my mum's jam tarts

0:21:21 > 0:21:23'and ginger biscuits - no pressure.'

0:21:31 > 0:21:34I am going to start with the ginger biscuits, Tom.

0:21:34 > 0:21:37If you just check that method out.

0:21:37 > 0:21:40I'm passing that onto a Michelin-starred chef, Mum.

0:21:40 > 0:21:43- "Melt marg, sugar and syrup gently in a pan."- OK.

0:21:43 > 0:21:45- Margarine?- Margarine.

0:21:45 > 0:21:47- Not butter?- Not butter. Margarine, of course.- OK.

0:21:47 > 0:21:50- In a pan.- Yeah.- Right. OK.

0:21:50 > 0:21:53Margarine goes in. Syrup.

0:21:54 > 0:21:58I remember this coming out of the bowl when I was a kid thinking,

0:21:58 > 0:22:01- "Ergh! What's that!"- Golden syrup?

0:22:01 > 0:22:04- Yeah.- It's amazing stuff.- I know, it's been around for donkey's years.

0:22:04 > 0:22:08- Yeah.- What else is in there?- Sugar.

0:22:08 > 0:22:11- She's almost making a caramel, isn't she?- Yeah.

0:22:11 > 0:22:13- Have you not made these before?- No.

0:22:13 > 0:22:15THEY LAUGH

0:22:15 > 0:22:17Not like this!

0:22:17 > 0:22:18You left them to your mum, yeah?

0:22:18 > 0:22:22Yeah, if I was coming home, my mum would invariably make

0:22:22 > 0:22:24a barrel full of the biscuits.

0:22:24 > 0:22:27If I park that, that's for the ginger biscuits.

0:22:27 > 0:22:30When it comes to the jam tarts, I sort of figured this one out.

0:22:30 > 0:22:32Flour, she's got self-raising flour, has she?

0:22:32 > 0:22:36- She's got self-raising flour, 6oz of it.- That's about right.

0:22:36 > 0:22:39- Does she use butter or marg? - Butter or marg, 3oz of it.

0:22:39 > 0:22:41It's up to you but it looks like you've got a choice here, Chef.

0:22:41 > 0:22:43I'm using butter.

0:22:43 > 0:22:45I'm going to crush this. Did she say what to do?

0:22:45 > 0:22:48Rub together ingredients with a small amount of water.

0:22:48 > 0:22:51- What, with water?! - That's what it says, Chef.

0:22:52 > 0:22:55We're doing two at once, it's confusing.

0:22:55 > 0:22:58- Yeah.- The bit where it says, "Terribly difficult," she's right.

0:22:58 > 0:23:00There's three ingredients and we're getting it wrong.

0:23:00 > 0:23:03I've got water here! How much water does she say?

0:23:03 > 0:23:05It just says, "Small amount."

0:23:05 > 0:23:07- And that's it?- That's it.

0:23:07 > 0:23:09I can't... It needs more water.

0:23:11 > 0:23:13Maybe.

0:23:13 > 0:23:16Oh, hang on, I think I've made this too wet now.

0:23:19 > 0:23:20- I can bring that back. - There you go, look.

0:23:20 > 0:23:24I can bring that back. OK.

0:23:24 > 0:23:26Now, if I get some flour...

0:23:28 > 0:23:31I'd rather have a slightly wetter paste

0:23:31 > 0:23:34and then work... Did she say work it together?

0:23:34 > 0:23:36No, she just says, "Roll onto a board -

0:23:36 > 0:23:39"use a pastry cutter to cut out about 20 shapes."

0:23:39 > 0:23:41Rolling pin?

0:23:41 > 0:23:43I've hardly touched this.

0:23:43 > 0:23:45- I've just left it as it is, so it's quite buttery.- Yeah.

0:23:45 > 0:23:48I'm going to cut out the jam tarts.

0:23:49 > 0:23:54'Once the pastry is cut out, pop them into a greased cupcake tin.

0:23:54 > 0:23:58'Meanwhile, the butter, sugar and syrup have all melted

0:23:58 > 0:24:00'for my mum's ginger biscuits.'

0:24:00 > 0:24:02Smells like me mum's biscuits.

0:24:02 > 0:24:04- With dried ginger.- Yeah.

0:24:04 > 0:24:07The powdered stuff, there's nothing like it, it's really intense.

0:24:07 > 0:24:09It's a flavour that I always remember as a kid,

0:24:09 > 0:24:13whether it's steam puddings, or biscuits, that dried ginger's lovely.

0:24:13 > 0:24:16I'm going to come back to that. I'm going to carry on with these.

0:24:16 > 0:24:20So, has she given any baking instructions?

0:24:20 > 0:24:22OK. "Put into individual cupcake tray

0:24:22 > 0:24:25- "and add a teaspoon of jam into each."- A teaspoon?!

0:24:25 > 0:24:29A teaspoon, not too much, this is with an exclamation mark, mind.

0:24:29 > 0:24:31"Not too much or it will ooze everywhere!"

0:24:31 > 0:24:34That's a warning there, chief.

0:24:34 > 0:24:35OK. I'm happy with that.

0:24:35 > 0:24:37A good teaspoon.

0:24:37 > 0:24:40- Does she say what jam? - No.- I've got raspberry here.

0:24:40 > 0:24:43- OK, raspberry jam.- OK.

0:24:43 > 0:24:47"Gas mark five or six, 200C, 400F

0:24:47 > 0:24:50"and cook until pastry is pale and brown.

0:24:50 > 0:24:52"Maybe 30 minutes."

0:24:52 > 0:24:54- 30 minutes for these?!- Yeah.

0:24:54 > 0:24:56They'll be as black as coal!

0:24:56 > 0:24:57TOM CHUCKLES

0:24:57 > 0:25:00- Maybe in her oven.- Yeah, yeah.

0:25:00 > 0:25:05That one that the dial comes off all the time. What's this setting?

0:25:05 > 0:25:07Those jam tarts are ready.

0:25:07 > 0:25:10When it comes to the ginger biscuits, what does she say?

0:25:10 > 0:25:11I've got the paste ready.

0:25:11 > 0:25:15"Roll into 50p size balls, place on a baking tray,

0:25:15 > 0:25:18"mark with back of a fork, makes about 40 biscuits."

0:25:19 > 0:25:21- 40?- Yeah.

0:25:21 > 0:25:23Do you reckon you'll get 40 from that?

0:25:23 > 0:25:25Roll into 50p size balls.

0:25:25 > 0:25:27I think these are about right.

0:25:27 > 0:25:30I remember getting glossy hands when I was a kid, making these.

0:25:30 > 0:25:33- I'll do nine on this.- Nine. Not 40?

0:25:33 > 0:25:3640? There's no way I'll get 40!

0:25:36 > 0:25:38Maybe it's me mum's eyes.

0:25:38 > 0:25:40THEY CHUCKLE

0:25:42 > 0:25:46- You're not going to get away with that.- I'm dead, aren't I?- Yeah!

0:25:46 > 0:25:49I remember this pastry when I was a kid because we used to nibble on it.

0:25:49 > 0:25:51- Raw cake mix.- Raw cake mix.

0:25:51 > 0:25:54Because of the ginger you can sort of get away with it.

0:25:54 > 0:25:56So she doesn't flatten them, she just uses a fork.

0:25:56 > 0:25:58"Mark with back of fork."

0:25:58 > 0:26:00So, OK.

0:26:02 > 0:26:04All right. I remember the fork going on them

0:26:04 > 0:26:07because I remember there was always a slight indentation

0:26:07 > 0:26:08when they came out.

0:26:09 > 0:26:13- It's pretty basic, though, isn't it? - Yeah, but when you were a young 'un,

0:26:13 > 0:26:16that's pretty exciting, isn't it? You say it's basic, I'm looking at,

0:26:16 > 0:26:19"I can't wait for a jam tart."

0:26:19 > 0:26:22What did she say about the bake on the ginger biscuits?

0:26:22 > 0:26:24"Approximately 12 minutes, gas mark four,

0:26:24 > 0:26:29"180C or 350F, until golden brown.

0:26:29 > 0:26:32"Or a little bit later to make dunkers."

0:26:34 > 0:26:36OK. I want some dunkers.

0:26:36 > 0:26:38I can't wait to see what these are like when they're baked.

0:26:38 > 0:26:41Tom, I think we're going to have to reveal them at the table later.

0:26:41 > 0:26:43I'm looking forward to it.

0:26:51 > 0:26:53Thank you. I'll take one of those.

0:26:53 > 0:26:57'It's time for my guests to sample today's dishes

0:26:57 > 0:26:59'and I hope they enjoy them.'

0:26:59 > 0:27:01This is the best part of the day, time to tuck in.

0:27:01 > 0:27:02TOM: This is pork and apple pie.

0:27:04 > 0:27:06'Pork and apple is a great flavour combination

0:27:06 > 0:27:10'and I can't wait to taste it with Richard's verjus.'

0:27:10 > 0:27:12- You are getting that sharpness from it?- Really, sharp.

0:27:12 > 0:27:14The sage comes through as well.

0:27:14 > 0:27:17The sage does come through, without being too powerful.

0:27:17 > 0:27:20- Do you like that, Tom? - That's a delicious pie.

0:27:20 > 0:27:22- It's that apple, isn't it? - That apple's so good with it.

0:27:22 > 0:27:24You can't beat a good pie.

0:27:25 > 0:27:28'I loved exploring the historic pond pudding with Alex

0:27:28 > 0:27:31'and coming up with my own modern twist.

0:27:31 > 0:27:32Oh, my good man.

0:27:32 > 0:27:35- TOM: Chocolate and orange. - That's magical.

0:27:35 > 0:27:38And there's no going back now,

0:27:38 > 0:27:41- certainly not to the medieval version I cooked.- No!

0:27:41 > 0:27:44I want to try this bread and butter pudding now.

0:27:44 > 0:27:46For me, this looks just like me mum would have done it.

0:27:46 > 0:27:49That is stunning. You lucky lad, growing up with that.

0:27:49 > 0:27:50THEY LAUGH

0:27:51 > 0:27:56'And, finally, a jam tart and ginger biscuit dunker from days gone by.'

0:27:56 > 0:28:00They're a very simple and easy biscuit recipe to do. It's lovely.

0:28:01 > 0:28:04They're good. It's so simple.

0:28:04 > 0:28:06Your mum's got this sewn up!

0:28:06 > 0:28:10We're going to start a business, Mum, it's going to happen.

0:28:12 > 0:28:15We've definitely recreated some British classics today,

0:28:15 > 0:28:17including me mum's jam tarts.

0:28:17 > 0:28:20I hope you'll try these delicious recipes too.

0:28:20 > 0:28:24- Anyone for another jam tart? - Absolutely.- It's a winner.

0:28:24 > 0:28:26Cheers, Paul's mum.

0:28:26 > 0:28:27Yeah. Cheers, Mum.