Poaching

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0:00:02 > 0:00:03If you master the basic cooking techniques,

0:00:03 > 0:00:07you can build your confidence, cooking skills and repertoire.

0:00:07 > 0:00:10Cooking is so easy once you understand the basics.

0:00:10 > 0:00:11And there is no better teacher

0:00:11 > 0:00:15than legendary Michelin-starred chef Raymond Blanc.

0:00:15 > 0:00:18I feel like Picasso! Not quite.

0:00:18 > 0:00:21He wants to share what he has learnt in his professional kitchen...

0:00:21 > 0:00:23What is the Maillard reaction?

0:00:23 > 0:00:25Gives flavour, colour and taste to the food.

0:00:25 > 0:00:28..to help you achieve incredible results at home.

0:00:28 > 0:00:31That is the kind of dish you will remember all of your life.

0:00:31 > 0:00:34Raymond will reveal the secrets behind the simple techniques

0:00:34 > 0:00:36at the heart of every dish.

0:00:36 > 0:00:38If you go too high, you burn it.

0:00:38 > 0:00:40If you go too slow, nothing happens.

0:00:40 > 0:00:44It goes beige. Like English cuisine 40 years ago.

0:00:44 > 0:00:48From baking to roasting, poaching to frying,

0:00:48 > 0:00:50barbecuing and slow-cooking...

0:00:50 > 0:00:53Oh, la-la. Oh, la-la. And I mean, oh, la-la.

0:00:53 > 0:00:56..and all in his own unique way.

0:00:56 > 0:00:58# De dormir avec toi... #

0:00:58 > 0:01:01Raymond Blanc taught himself to cook.

0:01:01 > 0:01:03Now he will teach you.

0:01:03 > 0:01:06What I promise to give you is a deep understanding

0:01:06 > 0:01:09of what is happening in your saucepan, in your oven,

0:01:09 > 0:01:13and these techniques will help you become a better cook.

0:01:20 > 0:01:23Poaching is a gentle way to cook delicate ingredients

0:01:23 > 0:01:28by simmering in liquid, from eggs to meat, fish to fruit.

0:01:28 > 0:01:32Mastering this technique will result in perfectly sumptuous food

0:01:32 > 0:01:34with little chance of overcooking.

0:01:34 > 0:01:38Poaching is the amazing transfer of flavours.

0:01:38 > 0:01:40There are little miracles happening here.

0:01:40 > 0:01:42You conserve the flavour, you enhance it,

0:01:42 > 0:01:46and you also keep delicate ingredients in perfect shape.

0:01:48 > 0:01:51The most obvious ingredient to poach,

0:01:51 > 0:01:54but one that can be tricky to master, is the egg.

0:01:54 > 0:01:57It's the perfect introduction to this technique.

0:01:57 > 0:01:59In this first recipe,

0:01:59 > 0:02:01a poached egg with a beautifully soft yolk

0:02:01 > 0:02:04is served on a bed of rich, stewed tomatoes,

0:02:04 > 0:02:07topped with crumbled bacon crisp.

0:02:11 > 0:02:13A single ingredient is the star of this dish,

0:02:13 > 0:02:17but to ensure success, freshness is required.

0:02:17 > 0:02:19I think it says it all.

0:02:19 > 0:02:22That albumen is so old, it is completely broken,

0:02:22 > 0:02:26completely disintegrated through age. OK?

0:02:26 > 0:02:29So if you try to poach an egg like that, you hate yourself

0:02:29 > 0:02:32and you hate me because I have given you the recipe. OK?

0:02:32 > 0:02:36That's a very bad egg. This one? Brilliant.

0:02:36 > 0:02:37You can see the egg white

0:02:37 > 0:02:40is completely wrapped around the egg yolk.

0:02:40 > 0:02:42That's going to poach beautifully.

0:02:44 > 0:02:47So, the last thing you want is to boil the water.

0:02:47 > 0:02:51If you've got just these bubbles here, rising very, very quietly,

0:02:51 > 0:02:52in that beautiful pattern.

0:02:52 > 0:02:57One major element which will help the coagulation of the egg white

0:02:57 > 0:02:59is vinegar, OK?

0:02:59 > 0:03:01A splash of vinegar helps the proteins in the egg

0:03:01 > 0:03:04stick together and speeds the cooking process,

0:03:04 > 0:03:06forming a perfectly shaped egg.

0:03:06 > 0:03:11A little trick as well is to just give it

0:03:11 > 0:03:14a little swirl in your water, to create a spiral.

0:03:14 > 0:03:17And just slide your egg very nicely in.

0:03:17 > 0:03:21Look how perfectly the egg white is surrounding that egg yolk,

0:03:21 > 0:03:23and of course, the sign of a great fresh egg.

0:03:23 > 0:03:26Not just great cooking, great fresh egg mostly.

0:03:26 > 0:03:28And it is lovely to see.

0:03:28 > 0:03:33The most important thing to remember is that poaching is not boiling.

0:03:33 > 0:03:36If the water boils, the egg will break up and overcook,

0:03:36 > 0:03:38but by poaching, the soft egg yolk

0:03:38 > 0:03:41will be encased in the firm white pouch.

0:03:41 > 0:03:44Obviously, when you have got only one egg for yourself,

0:03:44 > 0:03:46it is fantastic, it is brilliant.

0:03:46 > 0:03:48Take it with a cafe au lait, all is perfect.

0:03:48 > 0:03:52But imagine if you have to cook eggs for 30 guests

0:03:52 > 0:03:54or 20 guests or even five guests.

0:03:54 > 0:03:56That is a bit more complicated.

0:03:58 > 0:04:00For batch cooking and serving the eggs together

0:04:00 > 0:04:03straight from the pan, this is a simple tip

0:04:03 > 0:04:06and a favourite in restaurants.

0:04:06 > 0:04:07Poach the eggs for three minutes,

0:04:07 > 0:04:11then plunge them into cold water to stop them cooking further.

0:04:11 > 0:04:14And at the last moment, when your guests are all sitting

0:04:14 > 0:04:17around the table, you just finish the cooking

0:04:17 > 0:04:19for one and a half minutes, and it will be perfect.

0:04:21 > 0:04:23With the eggs par-cooked,

0:04:23 > 0:04:26the next stage of Raymond's take on the full English.

0:04:26 > 0:04:30I am going to do a very simple tomato fondue to go with that egg.

0:04:30 > 0:04:31Obviously, guess what?

0:04:31 > 0:04:35A Frenchman, for his breakfast, would want a bit of garlic.

0:04:35 > 0:04:36Not very much, just a little.

0:04:36 > 0:04:38After all, it is for breakfast!

0:04:38 > 0:04:40It's not for dinner. OK?

0:04:40 > 0:04:43So just crunch it up.

0:04:43 > 0:04:46Then a little bit of rosemary.

0:04:46 > 0:04:49Tomatoes. Now, it is very, very simple.

0:04:49 > 0:04:52What you have to do is bring all these ingredients together

0:04:52 > 0:04:53at very, very low temperature.

0:04:53 > 0:04:56You don't want to fry your tomatoes, you just want to stew them.

0:04:56 > 0:04:59Oops! Fantastic.

0:04:59 > 0:05:01How did I do that?

0:05:01 > 0:05:02Voila.

0:05:02 > 0:05:06Taste your tomatoes, add a bit of sugar if you need to.

0:05:06 > 0:05:11That one doesn't need sugar at all. It's absolutely delicious as it is.

0:05:12 > 0:05:14To complete this hearty breakfast,

0:05:14 > 0:05:18thinly sliced bacon rashers are cooked and flattened in the oven.

0:05:18 > 0:05:20This is my bacon. Voila.

0:05:20 > 0:05:23It takes exactly eight minutes.

0:05:23 > 0:05:26I place it between two sheets of grease-proof paper,

0:05:26 > 0:05:30and then compress with two baking sheets.

0:05:30 > 0:05:32So it creates some absolutely beautiful,

0:05:32 > 0:05:36gorgeous, crispy, tasty pieces of little piggy.

0:05:37 > 0:05:39Delicious. And crispy.

0:05:42 > 0:05:45With the bacon crisped and the tomatoes stewed,

0:05:45 > 0:05:47the eggs are poached for a further one and a half minutes

0:05:47 > 0:05:50to reheat and finish cooking them.

0:05:50 > 0:05:52Let's put that out of the way.

0:05:52 > 0:05:54Breakfast is served.

0:05:56 > 0:06:00So we have got our eggs perfectly poached. Voila.

0:06:02 > 0:06:07What you could do as well is to make a nice crumble with the bacon.

0:06:07 > 0:06:08Piggy, piggy crumble.

0:06:12 > 0:06:14And it's perfect.

0:06:17 > 0:06:20Look at that. Absolutely perfect.

0:06:20 > 0:06:23For me, this dish really shows the best of poaching.

0:06:23 > 0:06:27Simple, but also absolutely delicious.

0:06:30 > 0:06:33One fresh egg and a pan of water

0:06:33 > 0:06:37created the centrepiece of Raymond's mouthwatering breakfast.

0:06:37 > 0:06:40Introduce a rich sauce as the poaching liquid,

0:06:40 > 0:06:42and the flavours soar.

0:06:42 > 0:06:45The next recipe is chicken breast browned in a frying pan

0:06:45 > 0:06:50before being poached in a creamy white wine and mushroom sauce.

0:06:50 > 0:06:54It shows off the exchange of flavours between meat and sauce,

0:06:54 > 0:06:57and also the perfect partnership of two techniques -

0:06:57 > 0:07:02poaching to retain tenderness, frying to add colour and flavour.

0:07:02 > 0:07:06The dish I'm going to make is one of the great dishes of the world.

0:07:06 > 0:07:09Simple, as well. There are a few tricks, mind you,

0:07:09 > 0:07:10so you've got to go through them.

0:07:10 > 0:07:13Some people might want the skin on, but for poaching,

0:07:13 > 0:07:17I think it's better to take the skin off.

0:07:17 > 0:07:20The seasoned breast is browned in a beurre noisette,

0:07:20 > 0:07:23foaming butter which smells and tastes of hazelnuts.

0:07:23 > 0:07:25SIZZLES What a beautiful noise.

0:07:25 > 0:07:32What you want to hear is that gentle, lovely sound. Delicate.

0:07:33 > 0:07:35So, now I've got some lovely colour.

0:07:35 > 0:07:38It's still very rare in the middle here, completely rare.

0:07:38 > 0:07:42It browns beautifully, which gives fantastic flavour to the sauce,

0:07:42 > 0:07:46and creates a fantastic exchange of flavours, of colours,

0:07:46 > 0:07:47but mostly flavours.

0:07:47 > 0:07:50That's what I'm really interested in as a cook.

0:07:50 > 0:07:52Oh, that's perfect.

0:07:52 > 0:07:56Frying has beautifully browned the outside of the chicken breasts,

0:07:56 > 0:07:59but poaching will cook the inside.

0:07:59 > 0:08:03The meat will poach in a sauce using dried morel mushrooms.

0:08:03 > 0:08:05What I have done is to rehydrate those morels,

0:08:05 > 0:08:09pour warm water onto it, so that will be the main carrier flavour.

0:08:09 > 0:08:13The morels are important, but the wine is as important.

0:08:13 > 0:08:15It is Arbois, it's a vin jaune.

0:08:15 > 0:08:19That's home. That's my home.

0:08:19 > 0:08:21I get very emotional, you know.

0:08:21 > 0:08:25You could use sherry if you wanted, dry sherry.

0:08:25 > 0:08:27OK, and that's all, very easy.

0:08:28 > 0:08:32The wine forms the base of the sauce and poaching liquid.

0:08:32 > 0:08:35We want to boil the wine, remove the alcohol, of course.

0:08:35 > 0:08:37Don't boil it down to death.

0:08:37 > 0:08:40You still need nine-tenths of the volume of the wine.

0:08:41 > 0:08:43That is perfect.

0:08:43 > 0:08:46Chop button mushrooms for texture.

0:08:46 > 0:08:50Squeeze the water from the morel mushrooms,

0:08:50 > 0:08:53but preserve the juice for extra flavour in the sauce.

0:08:56 > 0:08:59I am not browning my mushrooms, I am just warming them up

0:08:59 > 0:09:02and I'm converting the starch into sugar, into flavour.

0:09:02 > 0:09:05Add the reduced wine, morel juice

0:09:05 > 0:09:08and 200 grams of double cream.

0:09:08 > 0:09:10Voila. C'est bien.

0:09:10 > 0:09:13It is a very rich dish, but my God.

0:09:13 > 0:09:16That will become your star dish for dinner parties. It's amazing.

0:09:16 > 0:09:20And now, we are ready for the poaching.

0:09:20 > 0:09:22Voila. Completely covered.

0:09:22 > 0:09:25The whole process takes no more than seven minutes.

0:09:25 > 0:09:28No boiling, no simmering, I want that chicken

0:09:28 > 0:09:30to cook so slowly,

0:09:30 > 0:09:36that wet heat to go through gently right into the heart of my chicken.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40Taste your food all the time.

0:09:42 > 0:09:46There will be nothing left soon! It is quite delicious. Amazing.

0:09:46 > 0:09:48So, temperature...

0:09:48 > 0:09:54right in the middle of the breast, it is 60 degrees, so it is cooked.

0:09:54 > 0:09:58I want to finish off the cooking by relaxing the meat.

0:09:59 > 0:10:03I'm going to rest them a little bit here, and re-use the sauce.

0:10:03 > 0:10:05Very fast speed now. Galloping reduction.

0:10:05 > 0:10:09The chicken will be served with sliced leeks.

0:10:09 > 0:10:12These can be prepared in advance and heated to serve,

0:10:12 > 0:10:14or cooked at the last minute.

0:10:14 > 0:10:17Often, one boils vegetables, one boils them to death, actually.

0:10:17 > 0:10:20We take away all their goodness, their beauty, their colour,

0:10:20 > 0:10:23their taste and texture. All of that goes into the water.

0:10:23 > 0:10:26I'm going to show you a little technique which keeps everything -

0:10:26 > 0:10:29taste, texture, colour, flavour and nutrients.

0:10:32 > 0:10:34This tip is great for any vegetables

0:10:34 > 0:10:37that can be quickly boiled or steamed.

0:10:37 > 0:10:42Cut into small and even-sized pieces to aid fast cooking.

0:10:42 > 0:10:45Add five grams of butter and a splash of water.

0:10:45 > 0:10:47When heated, this will create an emulsion,

0:10:47 > 0:10:51a glossy blend of two liquids which don't usually mix.

0:10:51 > 0:10:55The water will create steam, and the butter adds flavour.

0:10:55 > 0:10:57What is fantastic about this technique is,

0:10:57 > 0:11:00the leeks are not boiling in plenty of water,

0:11:00 > 0:11:01just a tiny little bit of water,

0:11:01 > 0:11:05which steams them and will create an emulsion with the butter,

0:11:05 > 0:11:08creating a wonderful coating with fantastic flavours.

0:11:08 > 0:11:12It should take exactly three minutes.

0:11:12 > 0:11:15The leeks are ready just in time to serve.

0:11:15 > 0:11:18This is it. This is incredible.

0:11:18 > 0:11:23Beautiful sauce. Wonderful smell, wonderful aromas.

0:11:24 > 0:11:27So fresh, so clean, so beautiful.

0:11:29 > 0:11:30Bon appetit.

0:11:30 > 0:11:33OK, so we're going to taste it. This is the best moment of the day,

0:11:33 > 0:11:35when you have cooked it, you've worked for it.

0:11:37 > 0:11:40Look what the poaching has done. It is absolutely moist.

0:11:42 > 0:11:43Lovely.

0:11:43 > 0:11:46Fantastic texture with those mushrooms. Beautiful.

0:11:46 > 0:11:48Just shows the art of poaching.

0:11:48 > 0:11:51That's the kind of dish you will remember all of your life.

0:11:55 > 0:12:00Raymond uses ingredients from all over the world in his dishes.

0:12:00 > 0:12:03Many of the far-flung flavours come from the fragrant herbs

0:12:03 > 0:12:07growing in the kitchen garden at his Oxfordshire restaurant,

0:12:07 > 0:12:08Le Manoir.

0:12:08 > 0:12:13With over 100 varieties, more than 40 are micro-herbs.

0:12:13 > 0:12:16For me, herbs are magic.

0:12:16 > 0:12:19They add that little burst of flavour,

0:12:19 > 0:12:21when you expect them the least.

0:12:21 > 0:12:22Bang! You know?

0:12:22 > 0:12:27A bit of Vietnamese mint, or a little bit of slightly sour basilic.

0:12:27 > 0:12:30Or a hint of Jamaican thyme inside, whoa!

0:12:30 > 0:12:33This idea came from America.

0:12:33 > 0:12:34When I first came to America,

0:12:34 > 0:12:38I discovered a new world of micro-herbs, about 15 years ago.

0:12:38 > 0:12:41The Americans grew micro-herbs which are actually seedlings.

0:12:41 > 0:12:42That is what it is.

0:12:42 > 0:12:45It's much more rounded, much more gentle, which I like.

0:12:45 > 0:12:49So they don't overpower the dish you are creating.

0:12:49 > 0:12:53Of course, they look beautiful, so very elegant, dainty.

0:12:53 > 0:12:55Get to know them. Taste them.

0:12:55 > 0:12:57The sorrel is beautiful.

0:12:57 > 0:13:01A bit of acidity would go so well with salmon, with any fish.

0:13:01 > 0:13:03Here we've got the watercress, bitter.

0:13:05 > 0:13:07I got the earth...

0:13:07 > 0:13:09So...c'est la vie!

0:13:09 > 0:13:14Food is a wonderful palette of flavours and colours.

0:13:14 > 0:13:17The pianist would have all his notes and his keys.

0:13:17 > 0:13:23The chef has got at his disposition this incredible palette of flavours.

0:13:23 > 0:13:26I want to find a peppery herb, and that will be wonderful,

0:13:26 > 0:13:32the purple radish. A fantastic herb with beautiful, peppery, acidic,

0:13:32 > 0:13:34slightly sour-sweet notes.

0:13:34 > 0:13:37I could easily become vegetarian.

0:13:37 > 0:13:40I'm going to graze from now on. No more meat!

0:13:47 > 0:13:49Back in the kitchen, herbs from the garden

0:13:49 > 0:13:53are used to complement Raymond's next recipe -

0:13:53 > 0:13:56poached salmon, rolled in a fragrant dill,

0:13:56 > 0:14:01served with a tangy cucumber salad and spicy cauliflower florets.

0:14:01 > 0:14:07This is a simple but sophisticated dish of clean, lively flavours.

0:14:09 > 0:14:14So many people think that poaching is insipid, tasteless, thin.

0:14:14 > 0:14:17I think the world of poaching is marvellous.

0:14:17 > 0:14:20Completely exciting, and there are so many ways to poach.

0:14:20 > 0:14:23For this recipe, I have here a beautiful salmon.

0:14:23 > 0:14:29I don't want too much thickness. I want to open it up, butterfly it.

0:14:29 > 0:14:33Like that. Then, season inside here.

0:14:33 > 0:14:36It is a slight curing process. But not very much.

0:14:36 > 0:14:39A bit of cayenne pepper.

0:14:39 > 0:14:41Then dill, and of course,

0:14:41 > 0:14:44it's a classical association, salmon and dill.

0:14:45 > 0:14:48What you do now is to roll it.

0:14:48 > 0:14:54Just tightly turn it around into a beautiful ballotine.

0:14:54 > 0:14:57Look at that. Beautiful salmon.

0:14:57 > 0:15:00So now I'm going to wrap it up in clingfilm.

0:15:00 > 0:15:01Thank God we have it.

0:15:01 > 0:15:05Poaching the ballotine or salmon roll in clingfilm

0:15:05 > 0:15:09retains the neatly rolled shape and keeps the flavours locked in,

0:15:09 > 0:15:13but still allows the heat of the water to travel through the barrier.

0:15:13 > 0:15:14Use a good quality clingfilm

0:15:14 > 0:15:17because some of them are not heat resistant as well.

0:15:19 > 0:15:22Hold your hand still here and you just roll it.

0:15:22 > 0:15:25It's vital to make sure there are no air bubbles

0:15:25 > 0:15:30or the ballotine will float in the poaching water and not cook evenly.

0:15:30 > 0:15:34Voila. The fish is delicate, so you want a delicate cooking method,

0:15:34 > 0:15:37because those proteins are not like meat.

0:15:37 > 0:15:41Meat is much more dense, it's fibrous inside, there's collagens.

0:15:41 > 0:15:43Here, 55 degree maximum.

0:15:43 > 0:15:47Beyond that, it's overcooked and then you've got a very dry fish.

0:15:47 > 0:15:51Poaching off direct heat will prevent the salmon overcooking.

0:15:51 > 0:15:54Simply remove the simmering water from the stove,

0:15:54 > 0:15:57drop the ballotines in and poach for around seven minutes.

0:15:57 > 0:15:59First, you can see a change of colour.

0:15:59 > 0:16:04Remember, the fastest transfer of heat is done with liquid,

0:16:04 > 0:16:08not with dry heat. Dry heat stays outside,

0:16:08 > 0:16:11it takes a long time to come into the meat or the fish.

0:16:11 > 0:16:15Here, the water carries heat much more efficiently.

0:16:15 > 0:16:19How do I know that my ballotine is perfectly cooked?

0:16:19 > 0:16:25I've no idea, but that little piece of equipment will help me a lot, OK,

0:16:25 > 0:16:29to understand what's happening inside that ballotine.

0:16:29 > 0:16:31I'm going to check the temperature.

0:16:31 > 0:16:36I've got about 40 degrees now, OK, so of course it's not cooked,

0:16:36 > 0:16:42but if I rest my ballotine, in one minute, it will be about 55 degrees.

0:16:43 > 0:16:49Look. It is now 54.8. Now we have a perfectly cooked salmon.

0:16:49 > 0:16:53And then throw it back into ice water to stop the cooking.

0:16:53 > 0:16:56I'm going to do two little garnishes for that dish,

0:16:56 > 0:16:57two wonderful textures.

0:16:57 > 0:17:00One, cucumber, lovely texture.

0:17:02 > 0:17:05And the other one, cauliflower with horseradish sauce.

0:17:05 > 0:17:09Raw florets, we've got some horseradish cream here.

0:17:09 > 0:17:13All that needs is about that. Or a bit more, voila.

0:17:13 > 0:17:17So then, you can either use a bit of yoghurt,

0:17:17 > 0:17:21but as a Frenchman, I cannot help using creme fraiche.

0:17:21 > 0:17:23It is so delicious.

0:17:23 > 0:17:26That's why life is worthwhile living, you know.

0:17:26 > 0:17:28Food, glorious food!

0:17:31 > 0:17:33Adam, do you want a little bit?

0:17:34 > 0:17:36No, Adam is health conscious,

0:17:36 > 0:17:40he's coming at an age where he's getting a little belly.

0:17:40 > 0:17:41Adam!

0:17:43 > 0:17:45My lovely Adam!

0:17:47 > 0:17:50Now we'll see if I've poached my fish well.

0:17:50 > 0:17:54Beautiful, look at that, the middle is barely cooked.

0:17:54 > 0:17:56Just right.

0:17:56 > 0:17:58Don't forget to remove the clingfilm,

0:17:58 > 0:18:01that's one of the major complaints in restaurants.

0:18:01 > 0:18:06The best way is to take the point of your knife, just slide it out.

0:18:06 > 0:18:08I've just discovered that for myself.

0:18:11 > 0:18:14The dish is topped with micro-herbs from the garden,

0:18:14 > 0:18:18zingy sorrel and that peppery purple radish.

0:18:18 > 0:18:22Oh, look at that, Adam, look. The best part.

0:18:22 > 0:18:25Adam, shall we have a little bit of, er, a little lunch here?

0:18:25 > 0:18:26Come on.

0:18:29 > 0:18:30It's good.

0:18:30 > 0:18:33Look, look at that!

0:18:33 > 0:18:36Shiny, barely cooked, you can see it.

0:18:36 > 0:18:38I know I've got a great dish here.

0:18:38 > 0:18:41What it's really missing is a nice glass of Sauvignon Blanc.

0:18:41 > 0:18:45- And a French Sauvignon Blanc, not from Shropshire.- Of course.

0:18:45 > 0:18:47- Not yet, anyway.- All right.

0:18:47 > 0:18:48- Can you get me one?- No.

0:18:48 > 0:18:50RAYMOND LAUGHS

0:18:57 > 0:19:00Garden herbs added the finishing touches to the salmon,

0:19:00 > 0:19:03but in this next recipe they're used in abundance

0:19:03 > 0:19:07to infuse the poaching water to add extra bursts of flavour.

0:19:07 > 0:19:12Poached peach in an aromatic infusion of citrus fruit and liquor,

0:19:12 > 0:19:16served on an icy bed of peach granita.

0:19:16 > 0:19:20You take this beautiful peach, completely perfectly ripe.

0:19:20 > 0:19:24If you apply a too-strong heat, you will murder it, you will kill it.

0:19:24 > 0:19:29But a gentle poaching will create all sorts of fantastic miracles.

0:19:29 > 0:19:31First, the poaching liquid.

0:19:31 > 0:19:32Wine.

0:19:35 > 0:19:37So I want just to boil it a little bit.

0:19:37 > 0:19:41That's all, to remove the top acidity and top alcohol.

0:19:41 > 0:19:43Yeah, about that.

0:19:44 > 0:19:47To the boiled wine, add the same amount of water.

0:19:47 > 0:19:49Tres bien. So, two beautiful peaches.

0:19:49 > 0:19:52I'm going to remove the top here.

0:19:52 > 0:19:54It's like a little cork here, that's the stalk.

0:19:54 > 0:19:59But I pop the cork out, then I know when my peaches are ready,

0:19:59 > 0:20:02some beautiful little bubbles will come out.

0:20:02 > 0:20:05So very gently, delicately, oh, la-la!

0:20:05 > 0:20:09Then I will put in my vanilla, but no more than that.

0:20:09 > 0:20:13I've got my herbs here, I'm going to put a bit of basilic, a bit of mint.

0:20:15 > 0:20:18Oranges, lemons and sugar are also added

0:20:18 > 0:20:20to create a sweet perfumed liquor

0:20:20 > 0:20:24which will infuse the peaches as they simmer.

0:20:24 > 0:20:27Poaching never means boiling.

0:20:27 > 0:20:30If you boil, you destroy.

0:20:30 > 0:20:32Boiling is aggressive.

0:20:32 > 0:20:36It transfers the heat too fast, it overcooks the outside.

0:20:36 > 0:20:38All these flavours are extracted too fast.

0:20:38 > 0:20:42Poaching is the best vehicle

0:20:42 > 0:20:46to pass on flavours across from the herb to the lemon,

0:20:46 > 0:20:48the lemon to the orange, the orange to the peach,

0:20:48 > 0:20:51the peach to the wine, and they all love each other

0:20:51 > 0:20:53to create something which is just divine.

0:20:53 > 0:20:55A cartouche, or paper lid,

0:20:55 > 0:20:58will keep the peaches submerged in the heady liquid.

0:20:58 > 0:21:01So, how you do your cartouche, very, very simple.

0:21:01 > 0:21:04Grease-proof paper, fold it.

0:21:04 > 0:21:06Fold it again.

0:21:12 > 0:21:15Cut here. A little hole here.

0:21:19 > 0:21:21Raymond the saint!

0:21:21 > 0:21:23The holy Raymond!

0:21:24 > 0:21:26Just place it, voila.

0:21:26 > 0:21:29And everything can start infusing.

0:21:29 > 0:21:32Leave the peaches to poach for 20 minutes.

0:21:38 > 0:21:41Let's see what's happening with my peaches.

0:21:41 > 0:21:45Oh, it's lovely, it is such a beautiful picture.

0:21:45 > 0:21:48You can see now the bubbles are rising from the centre.

0:21:48 > 0:21:53The air is pushing the bubble outside of the kernel.

0:21:53 > 0:21:54That means it's cooked.

0:21:55 > 0:21:58Cool and peel the peaches.

0:21:58 > 0:22:02The poaching liquor is simply frozen to create a sweet-scented granita.

0:22:02 > 0:22:05It's fantastic, very fresh, very clean.

0:22:05 > 0:22:09It is just a melting flake of peach juice.

0:22:09 > 0:22:12So now of course comes the moment that the cook loves, OK,

0:22:12 > 0:22:15when you actually finish your dish, you are to give it to your guests.

0:22:15 > 0:22:19Just put the lemon to hold your granita.

0:22:19 > 0:22:24Lemon will be absolutely delicious through it as well. Tres bien.

0:22:24 > 0:22:25So then you have your granita.

0:22:27 > 0:22:28Oh, this is fantastic.

0:22:28 > 0:22:31I just feel like pouring champagne all over,

0:22:31 > 0:22:34because then you have your beautiful peach,

0:22:34 > 0:22:36perfectly ripe, on the top of it.

0:22:36 > 0:22:40A little bit of mint and sugar. That's for freshness.

0:22:40 > 0:22:43Voila. This, to me,

0:22:43 > 0:22:47it encapsulates all the treasures of poaching.

0:22:47 > 0:22:52The heat slowly, slowly cooks this beautiful, tender, ripe fruit,

0:22:52 > 0:22:55creating this fantastic exchange of flavours.

0:22:55 > 0:22:58Slow, slow, slow, no aggression whatsoever.

0:22:58 > 0:23:01And everything is mingled, passed on,

0:23:01 > 0:23:03lots of extraordinary flavours -

0:23:03 > 0:23:08minty, citrusy, peachy, bit of wine, perfect.

0:23:08 > 0:23:10Bon appetit.

0:23:16 > 0:23:20As demonstrated with the delicate peach, the art of poaching

0:23:20 > 0:23:24can give the lightest of touches to fragile ingredients.

0:23:24 > 0:23:28But in this last recipe, poaching is promoted to another level

0:23:28 > 0:23:32when teamed with the more robust technique of boiling.

0:23:32 > 0:23:36A clever pairing of ravioli filled with an elegant poached lobster

0:23:36 > 0:23:41and scallop mousse, served with a light tomato and lobster bisque.

0:23:43 > 0:23:48In my mind, I think this dish represents the ultimate of poaching.

0:23:48 > 0:23:52So now, I'm going to make my lobster and scallop mousse.

0:23:52 > 0:23:55Lobster tail and scallops will be pureed to form

0:23:55 > 0:23:57the filling of the ravioli parcels.

0:23:57 > 0:24:01First, what Adam has done - thank you, Adam -

0:24:01 > 0:24:04is to freeze my bowl.

0:24:04 > 0:24:08Warmth is the enemy of any mousses, OK?

0:24:10 > 0:24:12BLENDER WHIRRS

0:24:12 > 0:24:14I want to puree it completely.

0:24:17 > 0:24:21The best way to see it, take your finger,

0:24:21 > 0:24:23you take your glasses,

0:24:23 > 0:24:25where are my glasses? Always lose my glasses.

0:24:25 > 0:24:28OK, now, oh, it's perfect. And then you watch.

0:24:28 > 0:24:30Voila, look, it shines.

0:24:30 > 0:24:35All the proteins of the fish and the lobster are clinging together.

0:24:35 > 0:24:37They're more tasty as well, because you don't need eggs,

0:24:37 > 0:24:40because they cling together. Why do you add eggs? I want flavour!

0:24:40 > 0:24:42Nothing goes to waste.

0:24:42 > 0:24:46For even more flavour and colour, the deep red pigment is scraped

0:24:46 > 0:24:50from the inside of the lobster shell to enrich the pale mousse.

0:24:50 > 0:24:54So add your cream, little by little. Not too much.

0:24:54 > 0:24:58If you add too much at a time, you will whip the cream.

0:24:58 > 0:25:01OK, now I'm going to colour the pigmentation of the lobster.

0:25:02 > 0:25:04Yes, yes, yes. Look at that.

0:25:04 > 0:25:08It is so beautiful, so coral pink.

0:25:08 > 0:25:11The remaining lobster tail meat is roughly chopped

0:25:11 > 0:25:13to give texture to the smooth mousse.

0:25:13 > 0:25:16Then just a quick mix, it's ready.

0:25:16 > 0:25:18BLENDER WHIRRS

0:25:18 > 0:25:19That's it.

0:25:19 > 0:25:22The mousse will be encased in fresh pasta

0:25:22 > 0:25:25to create spectacular ravioli parcels.

0:25:25 > 0:25:28The rolled pasta can be made up to two days in advance.

0:25:28 > 0:25:32I'm going to stretch my pasta, so it's thin. Very, very thin.

0:25:32 > 0:25:35It's horrible to see this very thick pasta, OK,

0:25:35 > 0:25:37and it's not a very nice texture either.

0:25:37 > 0:25:40But a very, very thin pasta, you need to see through it.

0:25:40 > 0:25:42So that's the base.

0:25:42 > 0:25:46Place a spoonful of mousse in the middle of the pasta,

0:25:46 > 0:25:49and cover with another square.

0:25:49 > 0:25:53Gently seal the edges and trim away the excess.

0:25:53 > 0:25:54Voila.

0:25:54 > 0:25:57The ravioli goes into the freezer for 20 minutes.

0:25:57 > 0:26:01The frozen shell will protect the mousse when the pasta is cooked.

0:26:01 > 0:26:04The ravioli will be served with a lobster bisque.

0:26:04 > 0:26:08Its base is a rich tomato sauce with white wine added.

0:26:08 > 0:26:11The same tomato fondue that I did for the poached egg.

0:26:11 > 0:26:12Exactly the same.

0:26:12 > 0:26:14Then I boil my water.

0:26:16 > 0:26:20The lobster shells are fried off to extract their natural oils,

0:26:20 > 0:26:22which will intensify the flavour of the bisque.

0:26:27 > 0:26:32Voila. Don't boil it. When you boil it, everything gets confused.

0:26:32 > 0:26:37OK, a slow infusion of flavours, a nice gentle simmer, that's perfect.

0:26:37 > 0:26:39And 15, 20 minutes, no more.

0:26:41 > 0:26:45Voila. So, you strain it all in here.

0:26:46 > 0:26:48And now, with that beautiful jus.

0:26:48 > 0:26:50I want a jus, I don't want a sauce.

0:26:50 > 0:26:54I want something light, I want something spicy, fresh, tangy.

0:26:54 > 0:26:55I'm ready to poach.

0:26:55 > 0:26:59Fresh from the freezer, the ravioli is boiled quickly.

0:26:59 > 0:27:00This will cook the pasta shell,

0:27:00 > 0:27:03but only de-frost the delicate mousse filling.

0:27:03 > 0:27:07With the pasta cooked, the boiling water is turned down to a simmer

0:27:07 > 0:27:10to poach the lobster and scallop mousse inside.

0:27:10 > 0:27:12No boil whatsoever now.

0:27:12 > 0:27:14You poach them just delicately,

0:27:14 > 0:27:18one tiny little bubble coming up every so often.

0:27:18 > 0:27:21It's so delicate. A hard boil will kill it.

0:27:21 > 0:27:25What you want to have then is the mousse melting.

0:27:25 > 0:27:27Perfectly cooked, melting.

0:27:27 > 0:27:31No firmness, just completely dissolving in your mouth like snow.

0:27:31 > 0:27:35So, the ravioli are ready. I'm going to lift them out.

0:27:38 > 0:27:40They are gorgeous.

0:27:42 > 0:27:45The poached ravioli sits on a bed of heated courgette

0:27:45 > 0:27:48and carrot ribbons and wilted spinach.

0:27:48 > 0:27:51Beautiful here. Tres bien.

0:27:51 > 0:27:54A lobster claw tops this striking dish, which is

0:27:54 > 0:27:57surrounded by the silken lobster bisque.

0:27:57 > 0:27:59Look at this colour, look at those flavours.

0:27:59 > 0:28:01So light.

0:28:01 > 0:28:05And the final touch from Raymond's kitchen garden.

0:28:05 > 0:28:07A little bit of micro coriander here.

0:28:08 > 0:28:10Looks so delicate.

0:28:10 > 0:28:15Let's have a look right inside the mousse, what's happening here, OK.

0:28:17 > 0:28:23Look at that. These little holes here, very light mousse.

0:28:23 > 0:28:27This dish really shows off the beauty of poaching.

0:28:27 > 0:28:31What it can do. There is nothing insipid about it, I can assure you.

0:28:31 > 0:28:35There is so much flavour here. That's the miracle of poaching.

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