0:00:02 > 0:00:05Raymond Blanc arrived in Britain in 1972 as a 22-year-old,
0:00:05 > 0:00:09unemployed, French waiter with only a shaky grasp of English.
0:00:10 > 0:00:13Ten years later, he was a chef with two Michelin stars
0:00:13 > 0:00:16which he still holds today.
0:00:16 > 0:00:18Good texture. Lovely, lovely.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21While he has been successful in his adopted home,
0:00:21 > 0:00:24he has never forgotten his first love.
0:00:24 > 0:00:27Food, food, glorious food, my God.
0:00:27 > 0:00:30- The food and wine of France. - Beautiful.
0:00:30 > 0:00:33Now, Raymond is back to his favourite French regions
0:00:33 > 0:00:36so that he can reconnect with the wonderful food
0:00:36 > 0:00:38and people that have inspired him.
0:00:38 > 0:00:40Ah, voila.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43Oooh, oh, la, la.
0:00:43 > 0:00:44The flavour is intense.
0:00:44 > 0:00:47It just... Melting.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51In each region, he will take over a restaurant for one night only.
0:00:51 > 0:00:53Ooh, la, la.
0:00:53 > 0:00:55And cook a feast inspired by his journey.
0:00:55 > 0:00:59He will be serving a menu that features his version
0:00:59 > 0:01:01of famous local dishes.
0:01:01 > 0:01:06Helping the master in his homeland will be two lucky, young chefs
0:01:06 > 0:01:08from his restaurant in Oxfordshire.
0:01:08 > 0:01:10- Kush and Katie-Beth. - Oh, la, la. Oh, la, la.
0:01:12 > 0:01:16Despite 30 years at the top in the UK,
0:01:16 > 0:01:18this will be the first time Raymond has had a chance
0:01:18 > 0:01:20to be chef in France.
0:01:20 > 0:01:25I've never cooked in France and I'm slightly, slightly anxious.
0:01:25 > 0:01:28Ooh, la, la, stop it. Stop, stop, stop, don't grow up.
0:01:28 > 0:01:29Ah.
0:01:29 > 0:01:33It's a daunting, nerve-wracking and exciting task
0:01:33 > 0:01:36but one perfectly suited to Raymond Blanc.
0:01:36 > 0:01:37The Very Hungry Frenchman.
0:01:49 > 0:01:52Every great chef has a rich bank of memories
0:01:52 > 0:01:53that shape their love of food.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56And for Raymond Blanc, it's here in the high, green pastures
0:01:56 > 0:01:58of the county of his birth,
0:01:58 > 0:02:01a little-known region of France called Franche-Comte.
0:02:03 > 0:02:08Oh, OK, I get a bit emotional because it is my county and lesser known
0:02:08 > 0:02:10to many people which is, in a way, a shame
0:02:10 > 0:02:13because it begs to be discovered.
0:02:14 > 0:02:18Tucked away on the Swiss border in the easternmost part of the country,
0:02:18 > 0:02:22the food and cooking of Franche-Comte are the foundations
0:02:22 > 0:02:25of Raymond's lifelong pursuit of culinary excellence.
0:02:25 > 0:02:28It's going to be hearty food, I know exactly,
0:02:28 > 0:02:30all is going to be local
0:02:30 > 0:02:33and just going to be a very simple, inexpensive meal
0:02:33 > 0:02:37with the best produce I can possibly think of.
0:02:37 > 0:02:41The feed of this region is mountain food, grown in the summer
0:02:41 > 0:02:43and eaten all winter.
0:02:43 > 0:02:45It's food for hearty appetites.
0:02:46 > 0:02:47That is lovely.
0:02:47 > 0:02:50In the past, surviving long, cold winters
0:02:50 > 0:02:53meant smoky, preserved meats, bottled summer fruits
0:02:53 > 0:02:55and wheels of strong, hard cheese.
0:02:55 > 0:03:00Food, food, glorious food, my God. This is glorious food. Um.
0:03:00 > 0:03:05Raymond loves coming home and for him, home is food.
0:03:05 > 0:03:09Its ingredients are created by the earth, the weather,
0:03:09 > 0:03:12the history, the people and their craft.
0:03:12 > 0:03:14Five words in English, one word in French, terroir.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18Each region has got its own character, its own definitions.
0:03:18 > 0:03:21Always there's a connection with everything here.
0:03:21 > 0:03:25That beautiful Jura wine fitting so well with that magnificent Comte.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28Then that morille goes so well with that wine.
0:03:28 > 0:03:30That's the perfect union.
0:03:30 > 0:03:32Then you have that beautiful smoked ham,
0:03:32 > 0:03:34smoked with the wood of that forest.
0:03:34 > 0:03:37Cows providing the milk for that beautiful fondue.
0:03:37 > 0:03:41The terroir is one memory, it's, it's, it's, phwww
0:03:41 > 0:03:43it's, it's, I don't know, it's...
0:03:43 > 0:03:47The terroir is my memory of taste, my memory of my friends.
0:03:47 > 0:03:51Of when we went to fetch those mushrooms together.
0:03:51 > 0:03:54The fun. That hunger we had in our belly coming back home
0:03:54 > 0:03:58because we hunted those mushrooms all day long.
0:03:58 > 0:04:01True food is all about that.
0:04:04 > 0:04:08Raymond grew up in Saone, a small, country village near Besancon.
0:04:11 > 0:04:14Here, the surrounding countryside was a larder,
0:04:14 > 0:04:16a place to play and forage with friends.
0:04:16 > 0:04:19His childhood home sits atop the village
0:04:19 > 0:04:22where his parents still live today.
0:04:22 > 0:04:24Raymond's mother can always be found in the kitchen.
0:04:24 > 0:04:27And it's she Raymond credits with inspiring his love of food.
0:04:27 > 0:04:29Oh, mon brave!
0:04:32 > 0:04:34Ah.
0:04:34 > 0:04:36Maman Blanc is nearly 90 years old.
0:04:36 > 0:04:38She and Raymond's father built this house
0:04:38 > 0:04:39with the help of their neighbours.
0:04:39 > 0:04:41Home, it's about the familiar.
0:04:41 > 0:04:45OK, but a degree of expectation of very good food that's simple
0:04:45 > 0:04:48and delicious and it's turned out, here, in this house,
0:04:48 > 0:04:52it was turned out every time we sat down.
0:04:52 > 0:04:55Although we were not very rich, at all, we ate like kings.
0:04:55 > 0:04:57Raymond believes Maman Blanc
0:04:57 > 0:05:00to be one of the most gifted cooks he knows.
0:05:00 > 0:05:01The family home was always filled
0:05:01 > 0:05:04with the enticing aromas of home cooking.
0:05:04 > 0:05:06Il n'y a pas de remede pour les rides.
0:05:06 > 0:05:08She says, not too close, please.
0:05:08 > 0:05:12She doesn't like to show her wrinkles, OK.
0:05:12 > 0:05:16She looks like a little apple, an old apple, all crumpled
0:05:16 > 0:05:19and beautiful and cuddly as well.
0:05:22 > 0:05:24When he was growing up, the garden provided
0:05:24 > 0:05:28much of what the family ate and it's still the same today.
0:05:30 > 0:05:32The garden is much smaller than it used to be
0:05:32 > 0:05:35but my mum does look after it all by herself,
0:05:35 > 0:05:37OK, so I think it's quite amazing.
0:05:37 > 0:05:40CHURCH BELL RINGS
0:05:40 > 0:05:41That's quite interesting, see,
0:05:41 > 0:05:44that used to be the church we used to go to,
0:05:44 > 0:05:47of course, I was an altar boy but not a very good one.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50Because I used to eat the Communion bread
0:05:50 > 0:05:52and there was none for the guests.
0:05:52 > 0:05:54So to speak.
0:05:54 > 0:05:57- Ooh, la, la. La reine des glaces. - La reine des glaces.
0:05:57 > 0:06:01Maman Blanc still grows Raymond's favourite lettuce.
0:06:01 > 0:06:04Tasting great quality food as a child
0:06:04 > 0:06:06helped set Raymond's high culinary standards.
0:06:06 > 0:06:08It's one of these little flavours and textures.
0:06:08 > 0:06:10It's all linked with my childhood,
0:06:10 > 0:06:12it's all linked to a particular taste.
0:06:12 > 0:06:13If you taste that salad,
0:06:13 > 0:06:15it's the best summer salad you can possibly get.
0:06:15 > 0:06:18So, she gave me some pretty good stuff.
0:06:24 > 0:06:27That is typical, that is exactly what she shouldn't be doing
0:06:27 > 0:06:29but she still goes on to do it all the time.
0:06:29 > 0:06:34Jumping like a little girl, she thinks she's on a mountain.
0:06:34 > 0:06:37Maman, tu vas arreter de monter sur la dessus. Voila, merci.
0:06:37 > 0:06:40Maman Blanc is, reluctantly, letting Raymond cook.
0:06:40 > 0:06:44And he's making a family favourite, a sausage and potato salad.
0:06:44 > 0:06:47It's a very traditional salade Franc-Comtoise.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49With potatoes, with white wine
0:06:49 > 0:06:51and also this wonderful sausage de Morteau
0:06:51 > 0:06:53and a bit of salad, very simple.
0:06:53 > 0:06:56I think this sausage is the best sausage in the whole world.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59Yet, nobody knows it in England, it's unbelievable.
0:06:59 > 0:07:02That smell is so right, the colour,
0:07:02 > 0:07:05the smell, the whole house smells of Morteau sausage.
0:07:05 > 0:07:08And that goes directly here. Beautiful.
0:07:10 > 0:07:12Maman Blanc is determined to help.
0:07:12 > 0:07:16She's chopping some shallots for the salad dressing,
0:07:16 > 0:07:20using a curved knife that once belonged to Raymond's grandmother.
0:07:20 > 0:07:22My mum is good, very, very good
0:07:22 > 0:07:27but my grandmother was a mind-blowing feat of creativity
0:07:27 > 0:07:32and she grew everything and there was this amazing verger
0:07:32 > 0:07:33where all the food would be grown.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37Ah, Maman Blanc in action. C'est parfait, Maman. Tres bien.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41To complement the warm potatoes and rich sausage,
0:07:41 > 0:07:44Raymond is making a vinegar and white wine dressing.
0:07:44 > 0:07:48It's infused over a gentle heat with herbs and the shallots.
0:07:48 > 0:07:51And I'm going to pour that in here, very hot.
0:07:51 > 0:07:55They're going to soak that beautiful dressing.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58Look, this beautiful saucisse de Morteau.
0:07:59 > 0:08:02The warm dressing is soaked up by the potatoes
0:08:02 > 0:08:04before being topped with the smoky sausage.
0:08:04 > 0:08:08That's a home dish that you would do in any family and that's homely,
0:08:08 > 0:08:10it's simple and it's delicious.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17- Alors, voila, Sylvette.- Bonjour.
0:08:17 > 0:08:22- Bonjour, bonjour, Sylvette. - Bonjour, Raymond.- Ca va, Raymond.
0:08:22 > 0:08:23As well as friends and family,
0:08:23 > 0:08:26Raymond has invited his two assistant chefs,
0:08:26 > 0:08:28Katie-Beth and Kush,
0:08:28 > 0:08:30who will be helping him create his homecoming feast.
0:08:30 > 0:08:33Oh, les belles fleurs, oh, les belles fleurs.
0:08:33 > 0:08:34At room temperature,
0:08:34 > 0:08:37all the flavours of the salad have combined beautifully.
0:08:37 > 0:08:40Allez, enfants. Comme a la maison.
0:08:42 > 0:08:47- Une goutte.- Ah, Maman. Voila, c'est parfait, ca.- Oui.
0:08:53 > 0:08:54The gathering of friends
0:08:54 > 0:08:57and family bring older brother Gerard to the table.
0:08:57 > 0:08:59- Ca va?- Oui.
0:08:59 > 0:09:02Time for Raymond to discuss his plans
0:09:02 > 0:09:04for his first ever Franc-Comtois menu.
0:09:04 > 0:09:09Most importantly, a dish that always reminds him of this house.
0:09:09 > 0:09:13I will cook rabbit. It's a dish in our region which is important.
0:09:13 > 0:09:16It was a dish of the poor. Every family would own their own rabbits,
0:09:16 > 0:09:17not as pets.
0:09:18 > 0:09:21Actually, I'm going to prepare it here.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24I'm going to kill the rabbit here.
0:09:25 > 0:09:28When Raymond was young, the family always kept rabbits
0:09:28 > 0:09:31but there were no Thumpers or Cottontails here.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33These rabbits were not pets, they were for the pot.
0:09:35 > 0:09:38Raymond and his brothers would often kill
0:09:38 > 0:09:40and skin a rabbit for his mother to cook.
0:09:40 > 0:09:42His father taught his older brother Gerard
0:09:42 > 0:09:45and Gerard would help the young Raymond.
0:09:45 > 0:09:47And it's the same today.
0:09:47 > 0:09:49Gerard is an experienced hunter
0:09:49 > 0:09:52while Raymond usually leaves this to his butcher.
0:09:54 > 0:09:59Oui, oui. So do I. I find it very difficult, I must say.
0:10:04 > 0:10:06Encore deux minutes.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10You've got to be precise to ensure that the animal doesn't suffer.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12And actually do it humanely.
0:10:12 > 0:10:15And also, it translates in good taste, of course.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18An animal which has been stressed while it's being killed,
0:10:18 > 0:10:20believe me, it's not very nice at all.
0:10:20 > 0:10:23Raymond has always believed in staying close
0:10:23 > 0:10:25to the source of his food.
0:10:25 > 0:10:28Food is not separated from my life. It's all part of it.
0:10:28 > 0:10:32And it's got its own cycle, its own seasonality, OK, around it as well.
0:10:32 > 0:10:36And I think that it's very much the basics
0:10:36 > 0:10:38of my whole philosophy.
0:10:38 > 0:10:40Voila.
0:10:48 > 0:10:52Franche-Comte is one of France's most rural regions.
0:10:52 > 0:10:53Pretty villages dot the landscape,
0:10:53 > 0:10:56many with their own, traditional restaurants.
0:10:57 > 0:11:01Raymond has persuaded a friend, Arnauld Berthet,
0:11:01 > 0:11:04to let him stage the feast at his bistro
0:11:04 > 0:11:06in the village of Port-Lesney.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10- Bienvenue, Raymond. - Merci, merci beaucoup.- Welcome home.
0:11:10 > 0:11:13The Bistrot Port-Lesney is typical of the region.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16Red-checked tablecloths, bentwood chairs
0:11:16 > 0:11:20and a long history of serving a demanding, local clientele.
0:11:23 > 0:11:27Raymond may be at the top of his profession in the UK
0:11:27 > 0:11:30but this dinner is about more than the food he will serve.
0:11:30 > 0:11:34It will be a homage to the cooking of his region
0:11:34 > 0:11:38and a celebration of the people that matter most. Friends and family.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42It's the first time for French guests in my own region.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46So, I better make sure that we give them the best and more.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49The restaurant is situated on the banks of the River Loue
0:11:49 > 0:11:51in an area known as the Jura.
0:11:51 > 0:11:56It's a great location for sourcing local ingredients.
0:11:56 > 0:11:59He is using some specialities, some good products from the area.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01So, obviously, we're very curious about it
0:12:01 > 0:12:03and we have no idea what he's going to cook.
0:12:03 > 0:12:05So, no, we're quite impatient, actually.
0:12:05 > 0:12:09It's a five-star kitchen. It's a seven-star kitchen.
0:12:09 > 0:12:11It's going to be a real pleasure.
0:12:11 > 0:12:14I'm bringing with me some real gastronomes
0:12:14 > 0:12:16and they will be very curious about it.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18So, I'm sure it's going to be a nice evening.
0:12:18 > 0:12:22It's fantastic. There's proper light, proper extraction.
0:12:22 > 0:12:25You can do pastry, you know.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28It's fantastic. It's straight, it's not like that.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31If life had taken a different turn,
0:12:31 > 0:12:34this could have been where Raymond Blanc made his name,
0:12:34 > 0:12:38a local French bistro rather than an Oxfordshire manor house.
0:12:39 > 0:12:42The menu for the feast will include Raymond's interpretation
0:12:42 > 0:12:44of the great recipes of Franche-Comte.
0:12:44 > 0:12:47The first dish he and his team want to try
0:12:47 > 0:12:49is braised rabbit with mustard.
0:12:51 > 0:12:55Rabbit may have seen a culinary renaissance recently in the UK
0:12:55 > 0:12:57but, here in France,
0:12:57 > 0:13:02it's always been as popular as Raymond's musical references.
0:13:02 > 0:13:04You would look very good, Kush.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06- You look brilliant with that. - What is it?
0:13:06 > 0:13:12- A wonderful singer, Lady, Lady... - Gaga.- Lady Gaga.
0:13:12 > 0:13:14Shall we compete with her?
0:13:14 > 0:13:19This will be a dish that everyone at the feast will recognise.
0:13:19 > 0:13:22The challenge is to make it the best it can be.
0:13:22 > 0:13:25The meat is slowly browning beautifully.
0:13:25 > 0:13:26The juices are leaking out
0:13:26 > 0:13:31and are settling down to a wonderful caramel at the base of it.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35And there is no drying, just slow cooking, OK, perfect.
0:13:35 > 0:13:41In France, a slow braise like this will always include some local wine.
0:13:41 > 0:13:44- A quick boil, two seconds to remove the alcohol.- Oui.
0:13:44 > 0:13:47This Vin Jaune is unique to this area of Franche-Comte.
0:13:47 > 0:13:50Of all the wines of the world I know,
0:13:50 > 0:13:54- there's only two I can recognise when I cook them.- Oui.
0:13:55 > 0:13:56- It's a Vin Jaune.- Oui.
0:13:57 > 0:14:01- And the second?- The Gewurztraminer we use at work, chef.- That's right.
0:14:01 > 0:14:04Another layer of flavour, fresh thyme and sage.
0:14:04 > 0:14:07I know you'll be very tempted, Kush, to turn it around.
0:14:07 > 0:14:10You would like to, I know. It... Don't.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13- Many people would have stirred it to death.- Oui.
0:14:13 > 0:14:18OK, so, before you start, you've got a dead rabbit. OK.
0:14:18 > 0:14:19Twice dead. Twice dead.
0:14:19 > 0:14:22For acidity and depth, some vinegar.
0:14:22 > 0:14:24Beautiful.
0:14:24 > 0:14:28More essential flavours come in the form of onions, garlic
0:14:28 > 0:14:29and mushrooms.
0:14:31 > 0:14:33Some water lengthens the sauce.
0:14:34 > 0:14:39- Now, Kush, oh, la, la. A bit of cold water.- Precision is everything.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42That's how you mess up, that is exactly... Quickly.
0:14:43 > 0:14:45You must never, never boil.
0:14:45 > 0:14:50- OK, it's my fault, completely my fault. I...- It's a new stove.
0:14:50 > 0:14:52It's a new stove, OK.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55A quick taste and it's off to a low oven.
0:14:59 > 0:15:01The jus.
0:15:02 > 0:15:06I can smell the Vin Jaune. Oh, yes, we can smell it.
0:15:09 > 0:15:11Voila. Beautiful.
0:15:11 > 0:15:15Raymond is sure his guests will love that local favourite,
0:15:15 > 0:15:18cooked in his own special way.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21It's vintage Raymond, a bit like his lovely old car.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25Don't laugh at my Deux Chevaux, she's a classic, OK, look at that.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28And she's seen a lot. Can I show you?
0:15:28 > 0:15:31And I wish she'd seen much more with me. Fantastic.
0:15:36 > 0:15:39Raymond left Franche-Comte in a car like this 40 years ago.
0:15:39 > 0:15:42It took him four days to drive to Oxford.
0:15:42 > 0:15:46At the time, he was still living here in Besancon.
0:15:48 > 0:15:52Like most French towns, food and eating is knitted into its soul.
0:15:52 > 0:15:56And for Raymond, a country boy, moving here on his own at 19,
0:15:56 > 0:15:57he felt like he'd really arrived.
0:15:57 > 0:16:00He was feeling quite rich
0:16:00 > 0:16:04when one day he found himself here at the Poker d'As.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08I was passing by this restaurant and suddenly I smelt something heavenly
0:16:08 > 0:16:11and those smells were absolutely unbelievable,
0:16:11 > 0:16:14different from my mother's cuisine, more structured.
0:16:14 > 0:16:17And rich and, oh, it was beautiful.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19So, I couldn't help it, I entered the restaurant.
0:16:19 > 0:16:24The maitre d' look at me, you know, "Good morning, young man,
0:16:24 > 0:16:25"what do you want?"
0:16:25 > 0:16:28And I said, "Well, what are you cooking today?
0:16:28 > 0:16:29"I smell something heavenly."
0:16:29 > 0:16:32"Ah, today the menu du jour is rognons de veau
0:16:32 > 0:16:34"with Hermitage red wine."
0:16:36 > 0:16:40Wow. You know, I say, "OK, I will sit down."
0:16:40 > 0:16:43He looked at me, "That's going to be expensive, young man, you know."
0:16:43 > 0:16:48I said, "Oh, no problem, no problem." I feel very sort of, no problem,
0:16:48 > 0:16:52playing the part of a very wealthy bon vivant, you know.
0:16:52 > 0:16:54And I said, "How much is it?"
0:16:54 > 0:16:56And he tell the price and I was like, oh, my God,
0:16:56 > 0:16:58I'm going to spend all that money here.
0:16:58 > 0:17:01But I say, "OK, let's treat myself."
0:17:01 > 0:17:05It was my first gastronomic experience in this little place
0:17:05 > 0:17:07and, I must say, it was one of the happiest moments of my life.
0:17:07 > 0:17:09Oh, I was in heaven.
0:17:10 > 0:17:13Rognons de veau, look, rognons de veau.
0:17:13 > 0:17:16It's with white wine, not my rognons de veau.
0:17:16 > 0:17:18So, I won't go here at lunchtime.
0:17:28 > 0:17:29No, we're not lost at all.
0:17:29 > 0:17:32I get it a little bit wrong, I always get it wrong.
0:17:32 > 0:17:33I've got no sense of direction.
0:17:33 > 0:17:39- In a forest, yes, in a city, no way. So, it's...- Over there.- OK.
0:17:44 > 0:17:47It may well have been Raymond's destiny to be a chef
0:17:47 > 0:17:52and, as a customer, he has never minded spending money on good food.
0:17:52 > 0:17:56As the purse is emptied, the heart is filled.
0:17:56 > 0:18:00Victor Hugo wrote that. He's from Besancon too.
0:18:00 > 0:18:03Here, in this his very place, that's when I really met my destiny.
0:18:03 > 0:18:06I was a young man of 19 and a half, it was very late at night,
0:18:06 > 0:18:10I decided to walk here in Place Granvelle.
0:18:10 > 0:18:11Beside my friend Victor Hugo.
0:18:11 > 0:18:15This square was home to the Palais de la Biere,
0:18:15 > 0:18:18the restaurant that gave Raymond his first job.
0:18:18 > 0:18:21And this legendary chef patron started right at the bottom.
0:18:22 > 0:18:26I ended up working here but I was not given the job as a head chef.
0:18:26 > 0:18:30I was given the job as a cleaner and, my God, I came in here
0:18:30 > 0:18:32and I cleaned that place.
0:18:32 > 0:18:35It was beautiful, it was shiny.
0:18:35 > 0:18:40The toilets were sparkling, never toilets had been so clean.
0:18:40 > 0:18:46Then I was given my first jacket and I started to be a waiter.
0:18:46 > 0:18:49For me, that was very important, formative years.
0:18:49 > 0:18:52That's where I learnt discipline, I learnt teamwork and, really,
0:18:52 > 0:18:55I learnt the meaning of a great restaurant.
0:18:55 > 0:19:00While Raymond was working his way up, he lived on this street.
0:19:00 > 0:19:04Now home to his favourite restaurant in Besancon, Le Vin et l'Assiette.
0:19:04 > 0:19:08It's a restaurant above a wine shop, both of which are owned
0:19:08 > 0:19:13by his old friend and wine expert Bernard Leroy.
0:19:16 > 0:19:18Absolutely famished.
0:19:18 > 0:19:21- Tu as vraiment faim? You're hungry? - Thank you very much.
0:19:21 > 0:19:24While he's here, Raymond wants to start thinking about the wines
0:19:24 > 0:19:26for his menu.
0:19:26 > 0:19:29You've got to help me because you know every single small producer.
0:19:29 > 0:19:34- Juste pour...- Pour commencer.- For starting.- For starters.- For start.
0:19:36 > 0:19:38Bernard's first suggestion is a Trousseau.
0:19:38 > 0:19:40It's a very fruity wine to start.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45Sante. To our beautiful country.
0:19:45 > 0:19:49- The Trousseau grape is indigenous to the region.- It goes very well.
0:19:49 > 0:19:51It's lovely.
0:19:51 > 0:19:55- Sante. Quel plaisir. - Bon appetit, Raymond.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05The Trousseau complements the fried pike
0:20:05 > 0:20:08but what about Raymond's rabbit?
0:20:08 > 0:20:10Next, some Vin Jaune.
0:20:10 > 0:20:13It is usually served at the end of a meal
0:20:13 > 0:20:16but, Raymond thinks, could be drunk with the rabbit.
0:20:16 > 0:20:19- Don't speak. Don't speak, don't talk.- The best way is to try.
0:20:19 > 0:20:21Taste, taste, taste.
0:20:22 > 0:20:26- Raymond has a theory about vin jaune's sherry-like quality.- Ah?
0:20:26 > 0:20:30- Maybe. - The history of Franche-Comte.
0:20:30 > 0:20:35- Franche-Comte was owned by Austria. - Yes.- Then by Spain.
0:20:35 > 0:20:41In Spain, they do a lot of sherry, which is a very similar technique
0:20:41 > 0:20:45so have the Spanish copied the French or the French copied the Spanish?
0:20:45 > 0:20:47No, no, no.
0:20:47 > 0:20:52This is a really, a really original wine from Franche-Comte.
0:20:52 > 0:21:00This is very French wine. It's not a pale copy of Spanish wine.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03Bernard has an idea to help Raymond decide.
0:21:03 > 0:21:05The best choice for you,
0:21:05 > 0:21:10for me, for the rabbit is to meet a really nice winemaker.
0:21:10 > 0:21:14- That would be absolutely lovely. - We can make it.
0:21:14 > 0:21:17Although, that trip will have to wait until tomorrow.
0:21:17 > 0:21:20- Aglouglouglou.- No, no, no.
0:21:20 > 0:21:23BOTH: # Il est des notres
0:21:23 > 0:21:26# Il a bu sa biere comme les autres
0:21:26 > 0:21:30# C'est un ivrogne. #
0:21:43 > 0:21:46A new day and Raymond's favourite day trip.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50Franche-Comte has a small but very special wine-growing area.
0:21:50 > 0:21:53It's in the beautiful Jura countryside,
0:21:53 > 0:21:57close to the restaurant where Raymond will put on his menu.
0:21:58 > 0:22:03Bernard has brought Raymond to meet one of his favourite winemakers...
0:22:05 > 0:22:08whose cellar is in the village of Montigny-les-Arsures.
0:22:08 > 0:22:11- Monsieur Gahier, enchante. - Enchante.- Pleased to meet you.
0:22:11 > 0:22:17Jura is about terroir. The foods, the vegetables, the game.
0:22:17 > 0:22:19The saucisse de Morteau, the charcuterie
0:22:19 > 0:22:21but also, of course, its wonderful wines.
0:22:21 > 0:22:25But the king of the Jura wine, of course, is a Vin Jaune.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28Monsieur Gahier makes some of the very best Vin Jaune
0:22:28 > 0:22:29and other wines in the Jura.
0:22:31 > 0:22:35What makes Vin Jaune so special is that, unlike normal wine,
0:22:35 > 0:22:36air is let into the barrel
0:22:36 > 0:22:39which allows a thin layer of yeast to form.
0:22:51 > 0:22:55That veil of yeast spends six years slowly passing through the wine
0:22:55 > 0:22:59and only then can Vin Jaune be drunk.
0:22:59 > 0:23:00Two things happen.
0:23:00 > 0:23:03The wine evaporates, the liquid evaporates
0:23:03 > 0:23:05and equally on the top,
0:23:05 > 0:23:07you have some yeast forming that we call the veil.
0:23:07 > 0:23:10The very finest veil made of bacteria,
0:23:10 > 0:23:12sitting at the top of the wine.
0:23:14 > 0:23:16Giving wonderful, little flavour,
0:23:16 > 0:23:20slightly oxidised which is very typical of that wine.
0:23:20 > 0:23:23You can see it right at the top. It's being formed.
0:23:23 > 0:23:26It's only a three-year-old wine at the moment.
0:23:26 > 0:23:27So, it's just being formed.
0:23:27 > 0:23:31This wine can grow up to 200 or 300 years of age.
0:23:31 > 0:23:36And you can put me anywhere in the world, across the world,
0:23:36 > 0:23:41you know, in a dark room, in an inhospitable place.
0:23:41 > 0:23:43And you put in front of me a Chateau Chalon,
0:23:43 > 0:23:45I will know it is Chateau Chalon.
0:23:45 > 0:23:47I will know it's a Vin Jaune. I know it's my Jura.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54There's only one thing left to do.
0:23:55 > 0:23:56Have a taste.
0:23:56 > 0:24:00Oh, look at that colour. Look at that colour. Liquid gold.
0:24:00 > 0:24:03Vin Jaune's rich taste has a peculiar affinity
0:24:03 > 0:24:07with one of Raymond's great food loves,
0:24:07 > 0:24:10the most famous cheese of the region, Comte.
0:24:10 > 0:24:13To me, one of the most heavenly matches on Earth
0:24:13 > 0:24:17is Comte and Savagnin Vin Jaune.
0:24:17 > 0:24:21Anyone, a boy, a five-year-old, would enjoy it too.
0:24:21 > 0:24:23You don't need to be Raymond Blanc or Bernard, you know.
0:24:23 > 0:24:28It is so incredible what you get when you eat those two.
0:24:28 > 0:24:31This amazing complexity of flavours, merging together.
0:24:31 > 0:24:34OK, well, maybe not a five-year-old boy
0:24:34 > 0:24:37but this combination of Comte and Vin Jaune,
0:24:37 > 0:24:41to Raymond, it is nothing short of a miracle.
0:24:41 > 0:24:43- Thank you.- Sante.
0:24:43 > 0:24:45It's just a pity that Raymond is driving.
0:24:45 > 0:24:47Voila.
0:24:55 > 0:24:59Soon, Raymond will cook his first meal as a chef
0:24:59 > 0:25:01in his home region, Franche-Comte.
0:25:01 > 0:25:06And it's unthinkable that his menu won't include Comte cheese.
0:25:06 > 0:25:07We'll have a look.
0:25:08 > 0:25:11So, he's using it to make a cloud of cheese souffle
0:25:11 > 0:25:13inside a crisp pastry case.
0:25:13 > 0:25:16This is Raymond's Comte Cheese Tart.
0:25:19 > 0:25:23The perfect finish requires well-rested pastry.
0:25:23 > 0:25:27Ah! I'm doing very well, for f... Beep, beep, beep, beep.
0:25:27 > 0:25:29Clingfilm saves the day.
0:25:29 > 0:25:33With raw pastry, you just lift it, right in the middle, here.
0:25:33 > 0:25:36Push it in, push it in, push it in.
0:25:37 > 0:25:40Voila. Voila.
0:25:40 > 0:25:44Once cooked to a light, golden brown, the case is left to cool.
0:25:44 > 0:25:49The filling is next. For that, Raymond is going on a pilgrimage.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57COWBELLS CLANK
0:25:57 > 0:25:59Raymond is going back to the mountains
0:25:59 > 0:26:02where he spent his holidays as a boy, 20 miles from home.
0:26:04 > 0:26:06Montbeliarde cows are everywhere in the high pasture.
0:26:06 > 0:26:10They are renowned for their rich, high-fat milk.
0:26:10 > 0:26:12The milk that is used to make Comte.
0:26:15 > 0:26:19These cows must have a three-star Michelin meal every day.
0:26:19 > 0:26:21Would you look at that?
0:26:21 > 0:26:22You cannot get better than that.
0:26:22 > 0:26:25So many varieties, so many nutrients, so many flavours.
0:26:25 > 0:26:28You're bound to have fabulous cheese.
0:26:28 > 0:26:29These mountains form the French border
0:26:29 > 0:26:33and are dotted with the forts built to defend the country
0:26:33 > 0:26:34from Prussia in the 19th century.
0:26:34 > 0:26:39Now, Fort Lucotte in Saint Antoine is a different kind of bastion.
0:26:40 > 0:26:43Raymond is evangelical about what's inside.
0:26:43 > 0:26:46So he's bought his commis Katie-Beth to see for herself.
0:27:04 > 0:27:10Look at this. Look, there's millions. Actually, there's 100,000.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13100,000 cheese, Comte, here.
0:27:15 > 0:27:16OK, it's a cathedral of cheese.
0:27:23 > 0:27:27Like fine wine, cheese benefits from care and attention.
0:27:27 > 0:27:30This fort has the perfect temperature
0:27:30 > 0:27:34and humidity to make Comte cheese one of the world's great cheeses.
0:27:34 > 0:27:36I really, I really feel it, Katie,
0:27:36 > 0:27:39I'm right in the heart of my Franche-Comte. I smell it.
0:27:39 > 0:27:42Through my heart, through my brain,
0:27:42 > 0:27:45through all my senses I smell my Franche-Comte.
0:27:45 > 0:27:46It's incredible.
0:27:55 > 0:28:00Machines turn, brush and salt every wheel, every week.
0:28:03 > 0:28:06But there are some things a machine will never be able to do.
0:28:07 > 0:28:09And one of them is understanding
0:28:09 > 0:28:13when a cheese has reached perfection.
0:28:13 > 0:28:15Monsieur Querry is a master affineur.
0:28:15 > 0:28:18He inspects over 300 cheeses every day.
0:28:20 > 0:28:24The affineur's craft employs all five senses.
0:28:24 > 0:28:28Sight, touch, smell, taste and hearing.
0:28:28 > 0:28:32And he rather enjoys talking about cheese too.
0:28:56 > 0:29:02- It's not a hammer. OK.- Ca s'appelle une sonde.- It's a sonde.
0:29:02 > 0:29:05In which, of course, you can screw some cheese from here
0:29:05 > 0:29:06- and you can also tap it.- Oui.
0:29:06 > 0:29:11- On ne tape pas un fromage.- Non. - On le sonne.
0:29:11 > 0:29:15You don't tap cheese, you ring it.
0:29:17 > 0:29:20So, by ringing it, he understands the texture
0:29:20 > 0:29:23if it's tight or not, if it's moist or not.
0:29:26 > 0:29:30For me, that cheese would eat very well today but it still feels,
0:29:30 > 0:29:33feel the raw milk, the lactic quality.
0:29:33 > 0:29:36Each cheese is branded with a number so the affineur knows
0:29:36 > 0:29:40which village and which cows are responsible for which cheese.
0:29:40 > 0:29:42But do they really taste different?
0:29:42 > 0:29:46- So, we're going to try these different cheese.- Oui.
0:29:46 > 0:29:50- That come from different villages, same day.- Les odeurs de fermenter.
0:29:50 > 0:29:54Oh, c'est incroyable. It's different.
0:29:54 > 0:29:56It's two different worlds, two different cheese almost.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03Raymond has waited longer than can be expected of any Frenchman.
0:30:03 > 0:30:06A little bread, a little wine - time to eat.
0:30:06 > 0:30:09The Comte is at the very heart of our gastronomies.
0:30:09 > 0:30:11There's no doubt about that, now.
0:30:11 > 0:30:18I very much look forward to serve it cooked, to serve it whole.
0:30:18 > 0:30:20But we certainly serve it with joy
0:30:20 > 0:30:25and to celebrate that wonderful, fantastic taste.
0:30:25 > 0:30:27Ma Franche-Comte, regarde.
0:30:40 > 0:30:42Back at the bistro, it's time to finish
0:30:42 > 0:30:46the tart's delectably light cheese souffle filling.
0:30:48 > 0:30:51I'm going to cook it very slowly. I don't want to cook it fast.
0:30:51 > 0:30:55And I want to cook it perfectly to a blond roux
0:30:55 > 0:30:58which is going, in turn, to give that amazing, nutty flavour.
0:31:01 > 0:31:05A bechamel sauce is the base of most savoury souffles.
0:31:05 > 0:31:07Voila.
0:31:09 > 0:31:12So, now, your bechamel is cooked. Now, we'll cool it down a tiny bit.
0:31:12 > 0:31:16- Want to enrich it with mustard. - Oui, chef.
0:31:18 > 0:31:21Allez, hop. Now, the yolk.
0:31:22 > 0:31:23OK.
0:31:23 > 0:31:26That's your souffle base, we are ready.
0:31:26 > 0:31:29In goes the grated Comte.
0:31:29 > 0:31:31It gets very smooth.
0:31:31 > 0:31:33Voila.
0:31:33 > 0:31:35And for lift, egg whites.
0:31:37 > 0:31:41That's perfect. Perfect. That's great. Just a little like that.
0:31:41 > 0:31:43Tres bien. And then, now...
0:31:45 > 0:31:46Voila, tres bien.
0:31:46 > 0:31:51- Then, after, fold.- Oui, chef. - You break it then you fold.
0:31:51 > 0:31:55At this stage, the souffle needs careful handling.
0:31:55 > 0:31:59Folding gently, maximising the air bubbles needed.
0:32:00 > 0:32:02Voila.
0:32:02 > 0:32:06- Give me some cheese for the top. - Yes, chef.
0:32:06 > 0:32:07Just like that.
0:32:08 > 0:32:13- Voila. Let's go.- Oui, back into the oven?- Into the oven, yes.
0:32:13 > 0:32:16A medium oven gives rise, colour and a wonderful texture.
0:32:18 > 0:32:21Voila. Ah! Comme c'est joli.
0:32:26 > 0:32:28Tres bien. So, now, let's serve it.
0:32:33 > 0:32:35Oh, makes all the difference.
0:32:37 > 0:32:38Merci. Beautiful.
0:32:39 > 0:32:41Parfait.
0:32:42 > 0:32:45That's a very smart tart, Raymond.
0:32:49 > 0:32:50But this one won't keep.
0:32:53 > 0:32:55Mmm.
0:32:55 > 0:32:56That's fantastic.
0:32:58 > 0:33:02If Comte cheese has a rival for the affections of the locals,
0:33:02 > 0:33:04then it's the Morteau sausage.
0:33:06 > 0:33:10Although almost unknown in the UK, it's something Raymond adores.
0:33:10 > 0:33:14Being a proud local, he always replenishes his stocks
0:33:14 > 0:33:18to share with friends and family at home in Oxford.
0:33:20 > 0:33:24Key to their unique taste is long smoking in tuyes, or chimneys,
0:33:24 > 0:33:28that are a common feature on farmhouses in the region.
0:33:30 > 0:33:34The most famous locally is the tuye of Papy Gaby.
0:33:34 > 0:33:38Jean-Francois Nicolet is the owner and as well as sausage,
0:33:38 > 0:33:41he smokes whole joints of ham and beef.
0:33:41 > 0:33:43C'est incroyable.
0:33:43 > 0:33:45C'est formidable. C'est merveilleux.
0:33:45 > 0:33:47Oh, tous ces saucissons.
0:33:47 > 0:33:51Oh, these delicious dinners, imagine, hanging up there.
0:33:51 > 0:33:53That is a cathedral of sausages.
0:33:53 > 0:33:55And the smell, that smell is incredible.
0:33:55 > 0:33:59It's so powerful, this beautiful rounded smoke.
0:34:00 > 0:34:03I feel like, already, a great, big saucisse de Morteau.
0:34:03 > 0:34:04Absolutely all smoked up.
0:34:04 > 0:34:08I hope they're very well hung. They're not going to fall on my head.
0:34:08 > 0:34:11- No problem.- Ca va? Sure? - You're not sure.
0:34:11 > 0:34:13They're huge, they're massive. Ooh, la, la.
0:34:15 > 0:34:21This tuye is over 60 years old and the largest in Franche-Comte.
0:34:25 > 0:34:28As a technique, smoking isn't just about flavour,
0:34:28 > 0:34:31it's about survival.
0:34:31 > 0:34:33A beautiful piece of artisanry, lovely craft.
0:34:33 > 0:34:35What lovely smoke.
0:34:35 > 0:34:38Smoking helps preserve the meat
0:34:38 > 0:34:40so it can be kept through the long, cold winters.
0:34:40 > 0:34:45These people couldn't get out of these valleys for three months.
0:34:45 > 0:34:50So, that provided that food. That was their own sustenance.
0:34:50 > 0:34:52Not bad, mind you, I wouldn't mind.
0:34:52 > 0:34:54Good home-made bread, OK, Comte cheese,
0:34:54 > 0:34:56a couple of bottles of Jura wine,
0:34:56 > 0:34:59I think I could live with that for three months.
0:35:03 > 0:35:05Time to get those sausages.
0:35:07 > 0:35:12When I go back, OK, at home, I give the sausage de Morteau to my sons.
0:35:12 > 0:35:16And the passengers beside me they go, "Oh, lovely."
0:35:16 > 0:35:19Not like cheese, with cheese, people go...
0:35:21 > 0:35:22Voila.
0:35:23 > 0:35:25Voila.
0:35:25 > 0:35:27Parfait.
0:35:27 > 0:35:29The hunter and the gatherer.
0:35:29 > 0:35:30Tres bien.
0:35:34 > 0:35:36And before he goes, one vital job.
0:35:41 > 0:35:43- Oui, oui, oui, OK.- Tres bien.
0:35:43 > 0:35:45Voila.
0:35:52 > 0:35:54Not quite as flammable as it looks.
0:35:59 > 0:36:01Voila.
0:36:05 > 0:36:08- I think we are. On est des maitres. - Des maitres de feu.
0:36:08 > 0:36:13Des maitres de feu. We are controlling fire and smoke.
0:36:18 > 0:36:23Of course, Raymond can't leave without trying the food.
0:36:23 > 0:36:27A good quality pork. Bien sur, c'est saucisson.
0:36:27 > 0:36:31Smoked, smoked. C'est delicieux.
0:36:37 > 0:36:40You don't eat your own food? Vous ne mangez pas votre propre..?
0:36:47 > 0:36:49For Raymond, Morteau sausage is just one taste
0:36:49 > 0:36:52that stirs memories of a happy childhood.
0:36:52 > 0:36:54The food and recipes that he learnt at home
0:36:54 > 0:36:58have been handed down through generations.
0:37:01 > 0:37:05Raymond's grandmother was the housekeeper at a manor house.
0:37:05 > 0:37:08His grandfather was the gardener.
0:37:11 > 0:37:13As a small boy, Raymond used to visit them
0:37:13 > 0:37:16at what he called Le Chateau.
0:37:21 > 0:37:24Everything would grow here because of the microclimate.
0:37:24 > 0:37:27Everything would grow, vine would grow, peaches, apricots.
0:37:27 > 0:37:32Figs would grow. And an immaculately looked after garden.
0:37:32 > 0:37:35My grandfather was this great gardener
0:37:35 > 0:37:38and I learnt all about seasonality at a very early age.
0:37:38 > 0:37:40About four or five.
0:37:44 > 0:37:45Bonjour, chef.
0:37:45 > 0:37:49The house is now known by Monsieur and Madame Grappin
0:37:49 > 0:37:50and they've invited Raymond to come
0:37:50 > 0:37:52and have a look around his old playground.
0:37:52 > 0:37:59It was a complete cycle from earth, from seeds into the earth,
0:37:59 > 0:38:02then growing that life force, OK, that cycle,
0:38:02 > 0:38:07that seasonality which was worshipped into our house.
0:38:07 > 0:38:10And that gorgeous food and those figs, that deliciousness.
0:38:10 > 0:38:13And those smells in this house, it was unbelievable.
0:38:13 > 0:38:17From what was grown in the garden to what was cooked in the kitchen,
0:38:17 > 0:38:20this place has been an inspiration to Raymond.
0:38:20 > 0:38:24The cellar where summer fruit was turned into liqueur
0:38:24 > 0:38:26holds a particular memory.
0:38:27 > 0:38:33When I was a kid, I came down these stairs, that smell completely hit me.
0:38:33 > 0:38:37That smell of raw alcohol which was fermenting.
0:38:38 > 0:38:41And the vapours, I just, in two seconds,
0:38:41 > 0:38:47I got all that incredible looks, that incredible experience.
0:38:47 > 0:38:49Then, I got very drunk.
0:38:49 > 0:38:53And I stumbled upstairs and there, who was there, my grandma.
0:38:53 > 0:38:58And she gave me the biggest spanking of my life.
0:38:58 > 0:39:01"How could you care at four years of age to get drunk?"
0:39:01 > 0:39:04I never drunk a thing, of course, I'd just smelled, that's all.
0:39:04 > 0:39:06Fortunately,
0:39:06 > 0:39:10the memory hasn't dulled his love for his grandmother's cooking.
0:39:12 > 0:39:15She was a creative genius and a natural cook.
0:39:15 > 0:39:18A cook, you know, who just saw a produce
0:39:18 > 0:39:25and was so quickly able to make it sing, make it taste heavenly.
0:39:25 > 0:39:29Raymond used to stay overnight with his grandparents in a building
0:39:29 > 0:39:31across the courtyard, now overgrown.
0:39:31 > 0:39:34My room was here. That's my room.
0:39:39 > 0:39:40I love this house.
0:39:40 > 0:39:45It holds so many wonderful, incredible, precious memories,
0:39:45 > 0:39:47OK, of my dear grandparents.
0:39:47 > 0:39:48And it was lovely.
0:39:55 > 0:39:59Seasonality is core to Raymond's cooking.
0:39:59 > 0:40:03So, he's decided to start the feast with the freshest vegetables
0:40:03 > 0:40:06and a dish dedicated to his mother, Salade Maman Blanc.
0:40:15 > 0:40:19Although simple, the quality of the ingredients is vital.
0:40:19 > 0:40:22One of the best market gardeners in the region
0:40:22 > 0:40:26is just a few miles from the bistro in the village of Cleron.
0:40:26 > 0:40:29Laurent and Julie Pierrat used to work in Switzerland
0:40:29 > 0:40:32but they've returned to Franche-Comte
0:40:32 > 0:40:34to set up on their own.
0:40:37 > 0:40:40- Bonjour, Monsieur Laurent.- Hello. Hi.
0:40:42 > 0:40:44It's really lovely.
0:40:44 > 0:40:47We came here, Laurent, because we've been told
0:40:47 > 0:40:51that, in your place, you grow the most beautiful sweet chard.
0:40:52 > 0:40:53Le plus beau cardon.
0:40:54 > 0:40:56- This one...- On va les ausculter.
0:40:56 > 0:41:02- Ils sont jolis. Une belle. Quelle variete?- C'est la...
0:41:04 > 0:41:06- ..la regione d'Ampuis, quoi.- Hmm. - Oui.
0:41:07 > 0:41:11Raymond is also looking for chard to serve with his cheese tart.
0:41:13 > 0:41:17- I am preparing a tarte au fromage souffle.- OK.
0:41:17 > 0:41:21OK, and I would like to have a little blette on the side.
0:41:21 > 0:41:22So, those are fantastic.
0:41:23 > 0:41:27This beautiful chard is going to have pride of place
0:41:27 > 0:41:31on the plate next to Raymond's Comte cheese tart at the feast.
0:41:33 > 0:41:38- Vous les cusinez aussi? You cook them?- Oui, oui.- Is that your wife?
0:41:38 > 0:41:42- No.- No, you cook. You grow your food and you cook it.
0:41:42 > 0:41:46- My wife is good at the dessert. - Yeah.
0:41:46 > 0:41:51And I prefer cooking salty dishes.
0:41:51 > 0:41:56Every Frenchman I've asked, you know, "Do you cook?"
0:41:56 > 0:41:58- "No, no, my wife cooks."- OK.
0:41:58 > 0:42:00So, you grow and you cook, well done. Bravo.
0:42:00 > 0:42:02Thank you.
0:42:02 > 0:42:06Chard is a member of the beetroot family, bitter when raw.
0:42:06 > 0:42:08When cooked, it is sweet and delicate.
0:42:08 > 0:42:11Get a bit of raw beetroot. It's all organic, OK.
0:42:14 > 0:42:18Here we are lucky because Laurent has grown three varieties of beetroot.
0:42:18 > 0:42:19The albino is the white one.
0:42:19 > 0:42:23- Chioggia. I think we have it as well.- Candy.
0:42:23 > 0:42:26- Candy beetroot.- Candy beetroot, yes. Have you got some yellow ones?
0:42:26 > 0:42:30- Oui.- The Italian variety.
0:42:30 > 0:42:34Hmm. Forget about yellow, pas de jaune.
0:42:34 > 0:42:39So, we'll have a good mix of everything. Ca c'est vraiment mieux.
0:42:39 > 0:42:44Your garden and this beautiful area, and these fantastic mountains
0:42:44 > 0:42:47surrounded with wonderful mountains, it's really lovely.
0:42:49 > 0:42:53A rewarding afternoon in the garden can only end one way.
0:42:53 > 0:42:56Eating food fresh from the earth.
0:42:58 > 0:43:01This is the life Raymond left behind for England.
0:43:01 > 0:43:04The food of his home, saucisson, cheese
0:43:04 > 0:43:06and intense vegetable purees.
0:43:06 > 0:43:12- You have tasted this?- Never before. - Oh, you must taste that, beautiful.
0:43:12 > 0:43:16- You can't come to Franche-Comte without tasting that.- Exactly.
0:43:16 > 0:43:19Pontarlier-Anis, the taste of a warm, summer evening
0:43:19 > 0:43:20in Franche-Comte.
0:43:22 > 0:43:23Merci bien, parfait.
0:43:27 > 0:43:30I think this baby must be a very happy baby.
0:43:30 > 0:43:36Cos in all these little pots here, they're all little beetroots.
0:43:36 > 0:43:42Yellow, white, purple, from just in that little plot, here.
0:43:42 > 0:43:44And that little baby's fed on it. Imagine.
0:43:46 > 0:43:48From that deep terroir, for that real flavour.
0:43:48 > 0:43:53So, they learn very early what terroir means. As early as that.
0:43:56 > 0:43:59Well, I would say that the French, they know how to live,
0:43:59 > 0:44:00there's no doubt about that.
0:44:00 > 0:44:04I just visited an organic garden, here, that's it.
0:44:04 > 0:44:08And with saucisson and that the beautiful Pontarlier aperitif.
0:44:08 > 0:44:13With organic carrots, courgette, potirons, Gruyere.
0:44:13 > 0:44:16The lot. It's fantastic. It's wonderful.
0:44:17 > 0:44:22Quiet. No noise. Mountains around, clear air. Life cannot be better.
0:44:22 > 0:44:25I think I'm staying here. I think I'm going to stay here.
0:44:42 > 0:44:44At the Bistrot Porte-Lesney,
0:44:44 > 0:44:47Katie-Beth and Kush are preparing for the feast.
0:44:47 > 0:44:51The menu is settled except for one course, the dessert.
0:44:52 > 0:44:55The dessert is the evening's finale
0:44:55 > 0:44:58and Raymond wants to leave his guests with something to remember.
0:44:59 > 0:45:04Cherries are in season, so he's come home to Maman Blanc -
0:45:04 > 0:45:07she has one Griottine tree still fruiting.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10This tree is specially created for...
0:45:12 > 0:45:13IN FRENCH:
0:45:16 > 0:45:18Les tartes, les clafoutis. Oui?
0:45:18 > 0:45:20Tres bien, Maman!
0:45:20 > 0:45:24Yeah. Like she said, my mum, OK, that's for clafoutis,
0:45:24 > 0:45:25OK, but it's quite sharp.
0:45:25 > 0:45:29So it's a bit of an acquired taste, but mostly it's for...
0:45:29 > 0:45:31Griottes are for liqueur.
0:45:31 > 0:45:35Cherries cook in a...
0:45:35 > 0:45:37OK, so actually...
0:45:38 > 0:45:40I'm going to show you...
0:45:41 > 0:45:45- Elle... She's right, again, Mummy's absolutely right.- Voila.
0:45:45 > 0:45:48We pickle them now, ready for Christmas,
0:45:48 > 0:45:52and they'll be perfectly ready when the syrup - the kirsch syrup goes right through,
0:45:52 > 0:45:58OK, the fruit, and macerates them for about six months.
0:45:58 > 0:46:01- They will soak up... - Jusqu'a Noel, voila.
0:46:01 > 0:46:05You can also dip it into a fondant and then chocolat.
0:46:05 > 0:46:09And you let the fondant for at least a week,
0:46:09 > 0:46:13melt down, the kirsch fondant, that is absolutely stunning.
0:46:14 > 0:46:20There's going to be a lovely cherry dessert on the menu, definitely, but not those.
0:46:20 > 0:46:27Those are going to be for the alcohol - for my two sons, Olivier and Sebastien.
0:46:27 > 0:46:31The childhood memories of cherries means they will be the key ingredient in his dessert.
0:46:31 > 0:46:36The dessert Raymond has chosen will show off the fruit to its best -
0:46:36 > 0:46:37a cherry jubilee.
0:46:41 > 0:46:45It starts with a sabayon - a foam made with egg yolk and sugar
0:46:45 > 0:46:46and a little sweet white wine.
0:46:46 > 0:46:50Very simple dessert wine - don't use expensive dessert wine.
0:46:53 > 0:46:54I'm bringing air into it.
0:46:54 > 0:46:59The sabayon is so versatile, Raymond will be serving it two ways -
0:46:59 > 0:47:01frozen and gratinated.
0:47:01 > 0:47:05For richness, cream, and to enhance the cherry flavour, kirsch.
0:47:05 > 0:47:08Just as much as a tin of beans, kirsch should be in your cupboard.
0:47:08 > 0:47:13For sharpness, lemon juice and another layer of flavour - cayenne pepper.
0:47:13 > 0:47:15Tiny bit, not very much.
0:47:15 > 0:47:17Voila. Enfin, whoa, stop.
0:47:18 > 0:47:20It's not a tandoori we're doing here, OK?
0:47:20 > 0:47:25Freezing the sabayon turns it into a light parfait -
0:47:25 > 0:47:27a contrast to the warm cherries.
0:47:27 > 0:47:32Even with the best cherries, Raymond likes to use a simple technique
0:47:32 > 0:47:35to maximise their flavour -
0:47:35 > 0:47:36maceration in a little sugar and kirsch.
0:47:36 > 0:47:41I don't want a compote - I want the cherry to burst in your mouth
0:47:41 > 0:47:45with all the juices, with all of the flavour, OK?
0:47:45 > 0:47:48First, a circle of the frozen sabayon.
0:47:48 > 0:47:50Then the luscious cherries...
0:47:50 > 0:47:54The creamy sabayon, gently gratinated.
0:47:57 > 0:48:01It will brown beautifully.
0:48:01 > 0:48:07And for added texture, croutons and sugary almonds.
0:48:07 > 0:48:09- Is lovely.- Thank you.
0:48:21 > 0:48:23Menu complete. Now what was it?
0:48:23 > 0:48:25Er...
0:48:28 > 0:48:33I'm cooking it... I'm cooking it, I still don't know what I'm writing!
0:48:33 > 0:48:35It's difficult for me! OK, er...!
0:48:39 > 0:48:40Eh, bien, er... Oui.
0:48:42 > 0:48:44"Tarte au fromage soufflee."
0:48:44 > 0:48:48Oh, not "fromage", sorry! They will hang me high and dry.
0:48:48 > 0:48:51Here we're talking about Comte.
0:48:54 > 0:48:58Bon ap... Appetit, deux "p" in French, or one p?
0:48:58 > 0:49:01LAUGHTER
0:49:01 > 0:49:05I always get confused! In England, two. France, one.
0:49:09 > 0:49:10That's terrible! Ooh, la la!
0:49:19 > 0:49:23The bistro Port-Lesney in the heart of Franche-Comte
0:49:23 > 0:49:29is being prepared for one of the most significant nights in Raymond's professional life.
0:49:29 > 0:49:33Nearly 40 years ago, he left Franche-Comte as a waiter,
0:49:33 > 0:49:37to travel to Oxfordshire, where he found his passion
0:49:37 > 0:49:40and developed the skills he is now bringing home.
0:49:40 > 0:49:43Morilles, I'm going to do that now.
0:49:43 > 0:49:46In the years since, he has gained two Michelin stars,
0:49:46 > 0:49:50trained a generation of chefs and entertained royalty.
0:49:50 > 0:49:52We are going got start again with my counting.
0:49:52 > 0:49:55One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight...
0:50:01 > 0:50:04The cherries. We need to cook the cherries now, before they oxidise.
0:50:04 > 0:50:06Tres bien.
0:50:08 > 0:50:11Tres bien. Ca, on va le mettre sur la meme assiette.
0:50:11 > 0:50:15- OK, right after the tarte au fromage, we'll start cooking the rabbit. - Oui, chef.
0:50:18 > 0:50:23But tonight he cooks for the most important people in his life.
0:50:23 > 0:50:26I'm cooking for a big family tonight and most of it is MY family!
0:50:26 > 0:50:30It'd better be good or else I'll be in trouble with my first employer,
0:50:30 > 0:50:33my first teacher, I've got my first boss, you know.
0:50:35 > 0:50:37And lots of friends I know, voila.
0:50:37 > 0:50:39- And your mother! - And my mum, OK, so voila.
0:50:39 > 0:50:43And would you believe it, they've turned up early.
0:50:50 > 0:50:53Oh, Maman!
0:50:53 > 0:50:56You are very kind here, arriving half an hour in advance.
0:50:56 > 0:50:59In England, people arrive half an hour late.
0:50:59 > 0:51:04Even Raymond's elderly father has managed to make the journey.
0:51:04 > 0:51:06C'est une belle soiree. OK?
0:51:09 > 0:51:14But it's not just family and friends that Raymond wants to impress.
0:51:14 > 0:51:17The local gastronomes have turned up in force -
0:51:17 > 0:51:21the bistro's managers, Arnaud and Vanessa, know they're not easily impressed.
0:51:21 > 0:51:26Yes, those people are very regular clients from the bistro
0:51:26 > 0:51:31and from the chateau, so they know their food, actually.
0:51:31 > 0:51:34- We're just putting the pressure on, are we?- Yeah, a little bit.- Yeah!
0:51:37 > 0:51:40We are ready now to serve in five minutes,
0:51:40 > 0:51:42we can send effectively the crudites.
0:51:43 > 0:51:47To start the feast, some delicate canapes, and a Comte cheese fondue.
0:51:50 > 0:51:54It's a little on the thin side. Easily rectified, though.
0:51:55 > 0:51:58- More cheese, please, some more cheese - quickly.- Oui, chef.
0:51:58 > 0:52:00- Thank you, mon petit.- Oui, chef.
0:52:00 > 0:52:02Where is the Vin Jaune?
0:52:02 > 0:52:03Voila.
0:52:05 > 0:52:07Ah! Oh...
0:52:07 > 0:52:08Parfait.
0:52:08 > 0:52:14That makes all the difference, that's my beautiful Franche-Comte, lovely.
0:52:14 > 0:52:15Voila.
0:52:15 > 0:52:17S'il vous plait, service, monsieur!
0:52:27 > 0:52:29The first course is ready to be served.
0:52:29 > 0:52:32Salade Maman Blanc,
0:52:32 > 0:52:35with the fresh vegetables from market garden owner Laurent.
0:52:35 > 0:52:37A tribute to his mother's kitchen.
0:52:37 > 0:52:40CONVERSATION DROWNS HIS DESCRIPTION OF THE DISH
0:52:48 > 0:52:53The signs are good - not only has Maman Blanc cleaned her plate,
0:52:53 > 0:52:54Laurent looks happy too.
0:53:04 > 0:53:09- Donc, ca va. Combien de...?- Cinq. - Cinq, tres bien.- Quatre, huit...
0:53:09 > 0:53:10What time is it?
0:53:10 > 0:53:16- Half seven, chef.- Half past seven, perfect. Beautiful. Lovely.
0:53:16 > 0:53:17Perfect, guys.
0:53:17 > 0:53:24Next, the souffle tart, made with that local essential, Comte cheese.
0:53:24 > 0:53:25Beautiful.
0:53:26 > 0:53:29The top... Non, non, non. Voila.
0:53:31 > 0:53:35Will it live up to the exacting standards of the local foodies?
0:53:37 > 0:53:41Having a great time, great food, great company.
0:53:41 > 0:53:43The flan, fantastic.
0:54:10 > 0:54:13Now, the rabbit with mustard, made with Vin Jaune,
0:54:13 > 0:54:16rather than the traditional red wine.
0:54:16 > 0:54:19Will this variation surprise and delight?
0:54:20 > 0:54:24- Fast, let's go fast, guys. Got 35 guests.- Chef.- Oui.
0:54:24 > 0:54:25We'll be in a mess, otherwise.
0:54:25 > 0:54:30What will the verdict be from his fellow Franc-Comtois?
0:54:30 > 0:54:35I cook it at home, I cook it in red wine,
0:54:35 > 0:54:37so I do it quite regularly, but it's different on this one.
0:54:37 > 0:54:40I would like to have the recipe!
0:54:56 > 0:54:58Raymond's rabbit is a success.
0:55:04 > 0:55:07Voila - what time is it?
0:55:07 > 0:55:08Nine. Perfect.
0:55:08 > 0:55:11OK, tres bien, les enfants. Well done.
0:55:11 > 0:55:14Raymond has time to join the party for a moment.
0:55:31 > 0:55:35- Raymond is confident of a fantastic finish.- Bit of kirsch, please.
0:55:35 > 0:55:37The final course is the cherry jubilee.
0:55:38 > 0:55:40Bon... Stop.
0:55:44 > 0:55:47OK. Sabayon.
0:55:47 > 0:55:48Tres bien.
0:55:51 > 0:55:53Can we go on the rest, please? Katie?
0:56:01 > 0:56:03Perfect.
0:56:05 > 0:56:07Voila.
0:56:07 > 0:56:10C'est fait. C'est tout! Simple, is it!
0:56:10 > 0:56:11APPLAUSE
0:56:11 > 0:56:15As a homecoming, this has been challenging, but fulfilling.
0:56:15 > 0:56:18The feast is the glorious finale to Raymond's visit
0:56:18 > 0:56:22and smiling faces of friends and family, the ultimate reward.
0:56:23 > 0:56:26Tonight, what I loved most is cooking for the first time
0:56:26 > 0:56:28back into my own county.
0:56:28 > 0:56:31I have discovered a little bit more my country,
0:56:31 > 0:56:34I rediscovered its values,
0:56:34 > 0:56:38its ethics, its people. I feel I've showed my best.
0:56:38 > 0:56:44I think you have here the very heart of France,
0:56:44 > 0:56:50in so much it's about celebrations, about food, about a table.
0:56:50 > 0:56:53It's about bringing the friends around the table - it's fantastic.
0:56:53 > 0:56:58Life can be like that. It can be as charming as that.
0:56:58 > 0:57:02As fantastic as that. And the food tonight was the means,
0:57:02 > 0:57:05the medium to bring all these wonderful people around
0:57:05 > 0:57:08and celebrate life. And that's enough.
0:57:08 > 0:57:10That's fantastic.
0:57:10 > 0:57:12C'est tout.
0:57:15 > 0:57:19Next time, Raymond continues his journey in Burgundy.
0:57:19 > 0:57:21When I think of Burgundy, I think of wines.
0:57:21 > 0:57:24Merci.
0:57:24 > 0:57:25Boeuf bourgignon.
0:57:25 > 0:57:26I'm a very 'appy Frenchman.
0:57:26 > 0:57:31I thought I knew all the French cheeses, but my God, I only knew that much.
0:57:31 > 0:57:33Don't compete with me, rooster - be careful, OK?!
0:57:33 > 0:57:36You have a chef beside you!
0:57:56 > 0:58:00Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:00 > 0:58:03E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk