0:00:02 > 0:00:04Raymond Blanc arrived in Britain in 1972
0:00:04 > 0:00:10as a 22-year-old unemployed French waiter, with only a shaky grasp of English.
0:00:10 > 0:00:13Ten years later, he was a chef with two Michelin stars,
0:00:13 > 0:00:14which he still holds today.
0:00:14 > 0:00:18Good texture. Lovely, lovely.
0:00:18 > 0:00:21While he has been successful in his adopted home,
0:00:21 > 0:00:24he has never forgotten his first love.
0:00:24 > 0:00:26Food, food, glorious food!
0:00:26 > 0:00:28The food and wine of France.
0:00:28 > 0:00:29Beautiful.
0:00:29 > 0:00:33Now, Raymond is back to his favourite French regions
0:00:33 > 0:00:38so that he can reconnect with the wonderful food and people that have inspired him.
0:00:38 > 0:00:40Oh, voila.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43Ooh!
0:00:43 > 0:00:47The flavour is intense. Just...melting.
0:00:47 > 0:00:51In each region, he will take over a restaurant for one night only,
0:00:51 > 0:00:54and cook a feast inspired by his journey.
0:00:54 > 0:00:56Beautiful.
0:00:56 > 0:01:01He will be serving a menu that features his version of famous local dishes.
0:01:01 > 0:01:04Helping the master in his homeland
0:01:04 > 0:01:08will be two lucky young chefs from his restaurant in Oxfordshire.
0:01:08 > 0:01:09Kush and Katie-Beth.
0:01:12 > 0:01:15Despite 30 years at the top in the UK,
0:01:15 > 0:01:20this will be the first time Raymond has had a chance to be chef in France.
0:01:20 > 0:01:25I've never cooked in France, and I'm slightly, slightly anxious.
0:01:26 > 0:01:29Stop, stop, stop.
0:01:30 > 0:01:34It's a daunting, nerve-racking and exciting task,
0:01:34 > 0:01:37but one perfectly suited to Raymond Blanc.
0:01:43 > 0:01:47Many of us know a Cotes Du Rhone can be a great French tipple,
0:01:47 > 0:01:52and that the Alps are somewhere in Eastern France.
0:01:52 > 0:01:56However, when you combine the two thoughts,
0:01:56 > 0:02:00you have the mighty French region Rhone-Alpes.
0:02:01 > 0:02:03And at its heart is Lyon,
0:02:03 > 0:02:07capital of the region and gastronomic metropolis.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10Lyon is a city that punches above its gourmet weight.
0:02:10 > 0:02:14For Raymond, it would be unthinkable not to come here.
0:02:14 > 0:02:17This is a place that has influenced him hugely.
0:02:18 > 0:02:22And is a top destination for any serious food lover.
0:02:22 > 0:02:28Here is the whole belly of France. This place has been devoted to food.
0:02:28 > 0:02:34Very few cities in the world can match the amount of food eaten here, and enjoyed.
0:02:35 > 0:02:40When you're in the region of Rhone-Alpes, in search of great food,
0:02:40 > 0:02:43Lyon represents the altar from which to pray and eat.
0:02:43 > 0:02:47Lyon is one of these great, wonderful French cities,
0:02:47 > 0:02:52and in here, my God, there are so many mighty, wonderful places to eat.
0:02:52 > 0:02:55So many of them! And sometimes, not very expensive.
0:03:01 > 0:03:02Over the next few days,
0:03:02 > 0:03:06Raymond's culinary skills will be stretched to the limit.
0:03:06 > 0:03:10He will be hosting a feast for some of Lyon's finest diners.
0:03:10 > 0:03:13Tres bien.
0:03:13 > 0:03:17Featuring a menu inspired by his journey through Lyon.
0:03:17 > 0:03:20All the smell of Lyon. Fantastic. Beautiful.
0:03:20 > 0:03:23Notoriously hard to please,
0:03:23 > 0:03:26the people of Lyon take eating very seriously.
0:03:26 > 0:03:29THEY TALK IN FRENCH
0:03:29 > 0:03:33So Raymond will be looking for help from old friends and great chefs.
0:03:34 > 0:03:38HE TALKS FRENCH I have to wear a hat.
0:03:38 > 0:03:42As well as legendary chocolate makers,
0:03:42 > 0:03:45and the famous mothers of Lyon.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47These women know how to cook
0:03:47 > 0:03:50and how to give pleasure through their cooking.
0:03:50 > 0:03:54The grande dames of Lyon's food circles.
0:03:59 > 0:04:03Having immersed himself in the culinary ways of Lyon,
0:04:03 > 0:04:07Raymond with his two young kitchen assistants Katie-Beth and Kush
0:04:07 > 0:04:10will host a feast at one of Lyon's most famous restaurants.
0:04:10 > 0:04:11Voila.
0:04:13 > 0:04:14HE LAUGHS
0:04:20 > 0:04:23Industry has brought great wealth to Lyon.
0:04:23 > 0:04:27Its heritage as a city of working people can be seen most clearly on its menus.
0:04:27 > 0:04:31Not for Lyon the prime cuts found on the grand tables of Paris!
0:04:31 > 0:04:33Here, it's offal they love.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37Tripe, liver, heart and head, the Lyonnais will eat it all.
0:04:41 > 0:04:44In search of inspiration for his feast,
0:04:44 > 0:04:47Raymond is visiting chef Pierre Orsi,
0:04:47 > 0:04:50a great friend with a reputation as a master of Lyonnais cooking.
0:04:50 > 0:04:54And of course, that means only one thing in Lyon. Offal.
0:04:59 > 0:05:02- Oh, that looks lovely. Look at that! - Tete de veau.
0:05:02 > 0:05:04I am very ready!
0:05:05 > 0:05:09Pierre has decided to whet Raymond's appetite with andouillette,
0:05:09 > 0:05:12a pig's intestine savoury sausage.
0:05:12 > 0:05:14That's intestine of the pig
0:05:14 > 0:05:20put together into the skin of the big intestine and roasted.
0:05:20 > 0:05:25It sounds terrible, but I assure you, it's really delicious.
0:05:25 > 0:05:27It is typical of Lyonnais cuisine.
0:05:27 > 0:05:29Oh!
0:05:29 > 0:05:33The best way to eat andouillette is not to think where it comes from,
0:05:33 > 0:05:35and you really start to enjoy it very much.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39That is fantastic. If you're a Frenchman!
0:05:39 > 0:05:44Pierre's next local delicacy, tete de veau. Calf's head.
0:05:44 > 0:05:48That's a surprise that this dish came with a few vegetables,
0:05:48 > 0:05:50which normally you don't always find!
0:05:51 > 0:05:57So seriously protein-orientated food in Lyon, and fat-orientated as well.
0:05:57 > 0:06:00But I must say, it's absolutely delicious, completely addictive.
0:06:00 > 0:06:03Oh, les pieds de mouton.
0:06:03 > 0:06:07And then from the other side of the farmyard, lambs feet.
0:06:07 > 0:06:10I think all my buttons are going to go.
0:06:10 > 0:06:13I've seen people double their size in a few days in Lyon.
0:06:13 > 0:06:15Oh la la!
0:06:19 > 0:06:21HE LAUGHS
0:06:21 > 0:06:23A little bit of gristle.
0:06:23 > 0:06:26I think I got the big toe!
0:06:26 > 0:06:30When I come back to Lyon I LOVE to taste all of those flavours cos
0:06:30 > 0:06:33they represent a whole view of a whole county.
0:06:33 > 0:06:37Wonderful produce, beautifully cooked and it's delicious.
0:06:37 > 0:06:42Finally, chef Pierre joins Raymond to eat some tripe double-gras -
0:06:42 > 0:06:44fried tripe.
0:06:44 > 0:06:49You know, when I cook tripes at home, my partner goes away for two days.
0:06:49 > 0:06:51I cannot cook tripes any more.
0:06:53 > 0:06:55I'm banned from the house.
0:06:56 > 0:06:59Raymond had invited Pierre to his feast.
0:07:01 > 0:07:06For me, the people from Lyon is the most difficult customer.
0:07:06 > 0:07:09- He's very critical, very...he criticise?- Yes, yeah critical.
0:07:09 > 0:07:11He's very tough, very tough.
0:07:15 > 0:07:19So with a warning that he has the toughest palettes in France to please,
0:07:19 > 0:07:22Raymond is off to meet the celebrated meres de Lyon -
0:07:22 > 0:07:25the mothers of Lyon.
0:07:29 > 0:07:32These pillars of Lyon gastronomy are revered in the same way
0:07:32 > 0:07:34as the legendary chefs.
0:07:35 > 0:07:39The most famous mere of them all was Eugenie Brazier,
0:07:39 > 0:07:41the first woman to gain three Michelin stars.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46Raymond may be one of the world's top chefs
0:07:46 > 0:07:50but it was his mother who taught him what it means to be a great cook.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55So an invitation from Florence Pierrot to take lunch with
0:07:55 > 0:07:58the mothers of Lyon is like a homecoming.
0:08:00 > 0:08:02Bonjour, Florence, bonjour, bonjour.
0:08:02 > 0:08:04C'est Raymond!
0:08:05 > 0:08:07Allez...
0:08:07 > 0:08:08Voila.
0:08:23 > 0:08:26This famous Lyonnais dish means a lot to Raymond.
0:08:26 > 0:08:28Poulet morilles is a classical.
0:08:28 > 0:08:33It's one of the great dishes that you must eat once in a lifetime.
0:08:33 > 0:08:35It's a most amazing flavour,
0:08:35 > 0:08:38so I'm a very lucky boy, I'm going to eat the best chicken
0:08:38 > 0:08:40and also cooked by Florence and as well
0:08:40 > 0:08:42I will have a little bit of a memory.
0:08:42 > 0:08:46I'll go back in to memory lane, all the flavours we're going to taste today,
0:08:46 > 0:08:49because morilles are from my region.
0:08:59 > 0:09:01We get mixed up cos she's a chef now,
0:09:01 > 0:09:04I'm going to give her some things... difficult.
0:09:11 > 0:09:14She doesn't like really to cook for two or three people,
0:09:14 > 0:09:16what's the point? She likes a BIG table.
0:09:16 > 0:09:20On trouve facilement dix personnes pour venir a manger...
0:09:20 > 0:09:24Yeah, and she said you find easily ten or 15 people to come and eat, you know,
0:09:24 > 0:09:26good food. Good point.
0:09:28 > 0:09:32Wonderful to see the successions of layers of flavours,
0:09:32 > 0:09:34that you are adding to a dish.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37The whole kitchen is already full of those amazing scents.
0:09:42 > 0:09:43So French...
0:09:43 > 0:09:44- Voila!- OK.
0:09:47 > 0:09:49A votre sante. Merci, Florence.
0:09:49 > 0:09:51With the wine, some local charcuterie.
0:09:53 > 0:09:54# Qu'on est bien
0:09:54 > 0:09:56# Dans les bras
0:09:56 > 0:09:58# D'une personne du sexe oppose
0:09:58 > 0:09:59# Qu'on est bien
0:09:59 > 0:10:01# Dans ces bras-la! #
0:10:05 > 0:10:06Oh la la!
0:10:08 > 0:10:11The ladies who really know how to lunch are here.
0:10:11 > 0:10:13First to arrive Colette Sibilia,
0:10:13 > 0:10:15the queen of sausage.
0:10:15 > 0:10:17Qu'est-ce que tu m'as apporte?
0:10:22 > 0:10:25Next, Jacquotte Brazier.
0:10:25 > 0:10:29The granddaughter of the most famous mere of them all Eugenie Brazier.
0:10:30 > 0:10:33Comment ca va, Raymond? Ca va bien?
0:10:38 > 0:10:40I will be anywhere you wish.
0:10:41 > 0:10:46She has her own vineyard so we're drinking her own wine.
0:10:46 > 0:10:48Beaujolais blanc, 2009.
0:10:56 > 0:10:59To start a pork and pistachio sausage,
0:10:59 > 0:11:01served with a luxurious sauce.
0:11:03 > 0:11:05That is called a truffle butter.
0:11:06 > 0:11:10There's about seven truffles like that in this butter.
0:11:34 > 0:11:38Magnifique. C'est...c'est, ca c'est parfum.
0:11:39 > 0:11:42There's no place for the cream, it's filled with wine.
0:11:42 > 0:11:46That's a very French fridge, very Lyonnais fridge.
0:11:46 > 0:11:49There's certainly more wine than food, actually.
0:11:49 > 0:11:51Chef, oh la la!
0:11:51 > 0:11:53ALL: Oh! Oh la la la la.
0:11:53 > 0:11:57I really feel like at home, completely surrounded with my mums.
0:11:57 > 0:12:00Mums, les grands meres, les meres, les meres,
0:12:00 > 0:12:03les femmes qui savent cuisiner, hein?
0:12:03 > 0:12:05The women who know how to cook
0:12:05 > 0:12:08and how to give pleasure through their cooking.
0:12:08 > 0:12:10Bon appetit et large soif!
0:12:13 > 0:12:15I am, I am very sorry.
0:12:17 > 0:12:18Lovely, beautiful.
0:12:18 > 0:12:23So why did women become so prominent in the culinary life of Lyon?
0:12:23 > 0:12:29- Lyon was an industrial town.- Mm-hmm. - There is no aristocracy.
0:12:29 > 0:12:31- There is big bourgeoisie.- Yeah.
0:12:31 > 0:12:35So the grande bourgeoisie get some maid coming from the Alps.
0:12:35 > 0:12:40The Lyon girls are going down to Lyon to find work
0:12:40 > 0:12:42- so they come to Lyon. - To cook?- To cook.
0:12:42 > 0:12:44- To cook for bourgeois families?- Yes.
0:12:44 > 0:12:46All these girls have been taught to cook well.
0:12:46 > 0:12:49So it all started like that?
0:12:49 > 0:12:54Every French lunch has to have cheese and all of these are local.
0:12:54 > 0:12:57With Lyon, we've got about 20 different cheeses here
0:12:57 > 0:13:00and they come from about the same places. It's unbelievable.
0:13:00 > 0:13:04To see that whole culture devoted to food, celebrating food.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06That's why we are here.
0:13:06 > 0:13:11"Bon vivant", I think this word must have been invented in Lyon
0:13:11 > 0:13:14cos I've never seen such an incredible, positive attitude to food.
0:13:16 > 0:13:19What better way to spend the day then with the ladies of Lyon?
0:13:19 > 0:13:22Who have finally found something useful for Raymond to do.
0:13:22 > 0:13:26Not bad, eh? Serious, huh?!
0:13:34 > 0:13:38The gastronomic signposts in Lyon seem clear.
0:13:38 > 0:13:41Here, chefs take modest ingredients and turn them
0:13:41 > 0:13:45into the finest of dishes. Underpinned with the values and skills
0:13:45 > 0:13:49found in the best of home cooking, the food of Lyon is a product of its history
0:13:49 > 0:13:54and one which cannot be ignored when it comes to planning the menu for his own Lyonnais feast.
0:13:54 > 0:14:00And that history cannot be forgotten when it comes to finding a venue.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03For Raymond, that means a traditional bouchon.
0:14:03 > 0:14:07The bouchons were originally small restaurants that served silk workers
0:14:07 > 0:14:10during the 17th and 18th centuries.
0:14:10 > 0:14:13As the city became an industrial hub,
0:14:13 > 0:14:18they flourished to feed Lyon's growing number of factory workers.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21Today, there are only ten traditional bouchons left
0:14:21 > 0:14:24and Raymond has decided one of the most famous,
0:14:24 > 0:14:30the Cafe des Federation, will have the perfect ambience for his feast.
0:14:31 > 0:14:35- Hello, Raymond.- Bonjour, bonjour.
0:14:35 > 0:14:37The proud owner is Yves Rivoiron.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44- Oui. Ca va?- Bonjour, bienvenue. - Vous avez du travail? Ca se voit.
0:14:48 > 0:14:50See, what is wonderful about France.
0:14:50 > 0:14:54You go anywhere, they come out with a bottle of wine. At least it's 12 o'clock
0:14:54 > 0:14:56so it's fine. To you.
0:15:02 > 0:15:06What I really like about the Cafe des Federation is that simplicity,
0:15:06 > 0:15:08that warmth, that conviviality.
0:15:08 > 0:15:12You come here, the boss is here offering you a glass of wine, a big smile.
0:15:12 > 0:15:14OK, ready to take your money
0:15:14 > 0:15:16but he's also to give you a great time
0:15:16 > 0:15:18and that is so natural, it's sewn into his skin.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21He's a pure hotelier, that guy, a pure restaurateur.
0:15:21 > 0:15:23You're feeling the heart of Lyon.
0:15:23 > 0:15:28In a Lyonnais bouchon, one dish that is never off the menu is a pike quenelle and Raymond
0:15:28 > 0:15:33has decided to start his menu planning by tasting it but first, a little more wine is required.
0:15:33 > 0:15:35Er, Yves?
0:15:35 > 0:15:39Quelle maison! What a house!
0:15:40 > 0:15:41Oui.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59He doesn't like to give water, he prefers to sell wine, fair enough.
0:15:59 > 0:16:01Alors...
0:16:01 > 0:16:05l'explication ici, le Morgon, on met toujours l'elastique.
0:16:12 > 0:16:14I know now it is a Morgon.
0:16:17 > 0:16:19You know, he creates his own little jokes
0:16:19 > 0:16:23and that's what bouchon are all about. It's convivial, it's fun.
0:16:23 > 0:16:27You totally relax and you probably are going to eat...
0:16:27 > 0:16:31You'll probably have some very good food. Well, I hope anyway.
0:16:34 > 0:16:36Time for the pike quenelle.
0:16:36 > 0:16:41A light dumpling made from pike served with a crayfish sauce.
0:16:41 > 0:16:43Well, this looks very beautiful. Merci beaucoup.
0:16:45 > 0:16:48I've tasted so many horrible quenelle, tight, very heavy.
0:16:48 > 0:16:52Let's see if this one promises to deliver.
0:16:53 > 0:16:59Oh! Also, it looks great. There's a tremendous amount of flour
0:16:59 > 0:17:02to make sure it dazzles you and tastes of pike.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06What I'm looking for, effectively, for a great quenelles de brochet -
0:17:06 > 0:17:10lightness, so it melts in your mouth, like snow.
0:17:10 > 0:17:14I have tasted some pretty nasty quenelles de brochet,
0:17:14 > 0:17:17but this one is the best I've tasted,
0:17:17 > 0:17:20but still I find it very heavy and not enough pike flavour.
0:17:22 > 0:17:26Thankfully for Raymond, improving the pike flavour should be easy,
0:17:26 > 0:17:29as it is the fish most famously caught in the rivers of Lyon.
0:17:31 > 0:17:34The abundance of pike in the Rhone and Saone gave rise
0:17:34 > 0:17:37to the dish's prominence in the city.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40to get the ingredients to try his version,
0:17:40 > 0:17:43he heads for the best fishmonger.
0:17:43 > 0:17:46Have you seen the space where the man is actually working?
0:17:46 > 0:17:50It's about 20 centimetres. All is for the fish.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00I need two...about one pound...
0:18:07 > 0:18:11A good predator. Look at that! Wow!
0:18:14 > 0:18:17Nasty creatures, they really are predators.
0:18:17 > 0:18:20They really eat anything which moves...and which doesn't.
0:18:20 > 0:18:23I bet it would go at me, if he could.
0:18:26 > 0:18:29For me, he is going to pluck the pike.
0:18:29 > 0:18:30The bones.
0:18:30 > 0:18:35Very beautiful, very feminine word for a big masculine fish like that.
0:18:35 > 0:18:39I know this beast very well. I've hunted them many times
0:18:39 > 0:18:42using my rod, OK?
0:18:42 > 0:18:46It is so fresh, so wonderful, so I'm very happy.
0:18:46 > 0:18:50I have a great pike and we are going to do some fantastic quenelle.
0:18:50 > 0:18:54When I see that... it's amazing, see?
0:18:54 > 0:18:56That's typical Lyonnais pie
0:18:56 > 0:19:03and, although I say, very nice, I say, it's so heavy, you know?
0:19:03 > 0:19:07Mine will be like feathers. They will fly, they will float about,
0:19:07 > 0:19:10they will be in suspension. It will be so light, fluffy,
0:19:10 > 0:19:14delicate, silky, melting. Better be, or else I'll be in trouble!
0:19:16 > 0:19:20It's like a baguette. I will take them under my arms. Well, not quite.
0:19:37 > 0:19:41Raymond returns to the Cafe des Federations...
0:19:42 > 0:19:45..but this time, he's using the staff entrance.
0:19:45 > 0:19:48It's time to start preparing for the feast.
0:19:48 > 0:19:50On hand to help are Katie-Beth and Kush,
0:19:50 > 0:19:52assistants from his Oxfordshire restaurant.
0:19:52 > 0:19:55- I hope you enjoy yourself. - I think we will.
0:19:55 > 0:19:58Now, all he has to do is create
0:19:58 > 0:20:01the lightest, tastiest pike quenelle
0:20:01 > 0:20:03that Lyon has ever eaten.
0:20:03 > 0:20:06Some day, someone's going to get injured with that!
0:20:11 > 0:20:14Pike is a very special fish.
0:20:14 > 0:20:15They are a very special flavour.
0:20:15 > 0:20:19Raymond starts by making a smooth mousse for his quenelle -
0:20:19 > 0:20:21light, but intensely flavoured with pike.
0:20:21 > 0:20:23You need to grind the flesh very, very well.
0:20:23 > 0:20:26Let's have a look. Should be OK now.
0:20:26 > 0:20:30I'm going to add two eggs.
0:20:30 > 0:20:33To create the smoothest texture possible,
0:20:33 > 0:20:35Raymond uses an extra-fine sieve.
0:20:35 > 0:20:39Don't do too much together, OK? Take a little bit,
0:20:39 > 0:20:42to get the silkiest, best kind of texture.
0:20:42 > 0:20:44We have got the base of our quenelle here
0:20:44 > 0:20:48and now we are going to add the richness to it.
0:20:54 > 0:20:58Off to the fridge for the mousse, while the crayfish for the sauce
0:20:58 > 0:20:59get to meet their maker.
0:21:00 > 0:21:04Those little creatures are little monsters. They are really...
0:21:04 > 0:21:07Little claws, but they can do a lot of damage, I can assure you.
0:21:07 > 0:21:11The first thing we want to do is to kill them...humanely.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14It is all part of the process of food.
0:21:14 > 0:21:19With the meaty tails removed, the heads, shell and claws are crushed
0:21:19 > 0:21:21and sent to the frying pan.
0:21:21 > 0:21:22SIZZLING
0:21:22 > 0:21:25That will take about seven to ten minutes.
0:21:25 > 0:21:29So we are going to reduce a bit of white wine for that sauce.
0:21:32 > 0:21:36I'm going to mix my vegetables and herbs, you see?
0:21:39 > 0:21:44Now for the crayfish tails, but there's a job to do first.
0:21:44 > 0:21:48Right, Katie, we are going to do another very unpleasant task. OK?
0:21:48 > 0:21:52It's to remove the intestines of the crayfish.
0:21:53 > 0:21:55So, push here.
0:21:57 > 0:22:01- Voila. And you pull the intestine, OK?- Right.
0:22:01 > 0:22:06Tres bien. We are going to roast these lovely little creatures.
0:22:07 > 0:22:12Tarragon. Voila. Yes, in it. A bit of water. Voila.
0:22:12 > 0:22:16That takes 30 seconds from now, then take them off.
0:22:16 > 0:22:19- If you go beyond...overcooked. - Oui.- OK?
0:22:22 > 0:22:24OK, stop.
0:22:26 > 0:22:30You see what you have now from grinding all the vegetables, herbs,
0:22:30 > 0:22:33garlic flavour, tomatoes into a sauce - a jus -
0:22:33 > 0:22:36- which is going to be delicious. - Yes, Chef.
0:22:36 > 0:22:39OK, pour it all in, like that.
0:22:39 > 0:22:44Raymond reduces the sauce to intensify the flavour.
0:22:44 > 0:22:46A swirl of cream and the crayfish sauce is ready.
0:22:48 > 0:22:52Add a quenelle of the chilled pike mousse,
0:22:52 > 0:22:55then some grated cheese, which Raymond worries is too moist.
0:22:57 > 0:22:59Is this how this works?
0:23:00 > 0:23:05My friend helped me. It was so hot in that kitchen.
0:23:05 > 0:23:09Not a problem if you've got a hairdryer and a couple of clamps.
0:23:13 > 0:23:15What I have done here, I've dried a bit of cheese.
0:23:15 > 0:23:18Voila.
0:23:18 > 0:23:22Finally, pop under the grill.
0:23:22 > 0:23:24Raymond has mastered the pike quenelle.
0:23:25 > 0:23:28Well, it's lovely and fluffy.
0:23:32 > 0:23:35He's kept the dish loyal to its Lyonnais traditions,
0:23:35 > 0:23:37but made it light and fluffy enough
0:23:37 > 0:23:40for him to serve proudly at his feast.
0:23:52 > 0:23:56In Britain, food shopping is dominated by supermarkets.
0:23:56 > 0:24:01France is still managing to hold on to its long-established markets.
0:24:03 > 0:24:05And in many, you'll find a rotisserie.
0:24:06 > 0:24:09There is something about roast chicken which is very...
0:24:09 > 0:24:11It smells so delicious.
0:24:11 > 0:24:13The whole market smells of it.
0:24:16 > 0:24:18With the waft of roasting bird in the air,
0:24:18 > 0:24:21Raymond's thoughts for his main course
0:24:21 > 0:24:25are returning to the trusted mayor and the delicious Bresse chicken
0:24:25 > 0:24:26they cooked for him.
0:24:27 > 0:24:29The region is famous for the bird
0:24:29 > 0:24:34and he's going outside the city to seek them in their habitat.
0:24:36 > 0:24:38The Bresse chicken is France's premier bird.
0:24:38 > 0:24:41Like the best wines, it has its own
0:24:41 > 0:24:44appellation controlee. The law governs exactly
0:24:44 > 0:24:46how they must be raised.
0:24:49 > 0:24:51The lifestyle they enjoy
0:24:51 > 0:24:55is as far from intensive as it is possible to imagine.
0:24:55 > 0:24:58They are prized for their tender meat and small bones.
0:24:58 > 0:25:00Raymond has brought Kush
0:25:00 > 0:25:03to see these chickens, which belong to a young farmer star,
0:25:03 > 0:25:05Cyril Deglubere.
0:25:05 > 0:25:08- Cyril, enchante.- Bonjour. - Bonjour.- Bonjour.
0:25:08 > 0:25:12What you see is a perfect animal.
0:25:12 > 0:25:14And it's docile. It likes me, I think.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16It is one of Cyril's birds
0:25:16 > 0:25:18that goes to the President for Christmas dinner.
0:25:20 > 0:25:22Such a beautiful shape.
0:25:22 > 0:25:26It's really the Zinedine Zidane of chickens, really.
0:25:26 > 0:25:27That's what it is.
0:25:27 > 0:25:29And like top footballers,
0:25:29 > 0:25:33they don't come cheap - about £40 each.
0:25:48 > 0:25:52Then they get nine weeks' free range time in the fields,
0:25:52 > 0:25:54where each of them must have at least ten square metres
0:25:54 > 0:25:56to spread their wings -
0:25:56 > 0:25:58the size of a small garden.
0:26:06 > 0:26:09The healthy diet and outdoor lifestyle
0:26:09 > 0:26:13ends with two weeks indoors where they are prepared for the pot.
0:26:26 > 0:26:30Isn't it wonderful to see this chicken in its own environment?
0:26:32 > 0:26:35And Raymond has a traditional recipe
0:26:35 > 0:26:39which he is sure will do justice to these birds.
0:26:41 > 0:26:45Back at the Cafe des Federations, Raymond is going to prepare
0:26:45 > 0:26:46Lyon's great chicken dish,
0:26:46 > 0:26:51poulet au vinaigre - chicken cooked in wine and vinegar.
0:26:52 > 0:26:55This recipe is so common in Lyon
0:26:55 > 0:26:57that every chef has his own version.
0:27:02 > 0:27:04- He won't need the head, though. - BANG!
0:27:04 > 0:27:06All for a good cause.
0:27:07 > 0:27:10But he's keeping the treasure inside.
0:27:10 > 0:27:11Oh, look at that.
0:27:11 > 0:27:13That fat, I want to melt it down.
0:27:13 > 0:27:18Goose fat and chicken fat are inexpensive and absolutely delicious.
0:27:18 > 0:27:22It's the Lyonnais way to use everything,
0:27:22 > 0:27:24especially when a bird costs so much.
0:27:24 > 0:27:28Look at that colour. Look at that. Beautiful!
0:27:28 > 0:27:30Of course, if I was a Chinese restaurant,
0:27:30 > 0:27:33I would keep that, as well as the delicious bits in here.
0:27:33 > 0:27:37But mostly in England, we don't eat them, right?
0:27:37 > 0:27:38Delicious. You should try it.
0:27:41 > 0:27:46Raymond is careful not to cook all the pieces at once.
0:27:46 > 0:27:47The breasts have less fat.
0:27:47 > 0:27:50They will cook differently, different times,
0:27:50 > 0:27:51so we add it at the end.
0:27:55 > 0:27:57Time to start the sauce.
0:27:57 > 0:27:58Onions first.
0:27:58 > 0:27:59This onion is harsh,
0:27:59 > 0:28:04it's vulgar, so I want to sweeten it, by cooking it.
0:28:04 > 0:28:09Soon that kitchen's going to be invaded with the amazing flavours.
0:28:09 > 0:28:10C'est tres bien.
0:28:11 > 0:28:13Raymond uses red wine vinegar.
0:28:13 > 0:28:17If I was to put it straight on the chicken,
0:28:17 > 0:28:19my chicken would be ruined, your palate would be ruined
0:28:19 > 0:28:22and you would probably be screaming out of pain.
0:28:24 > 0:28:26Heating the vinegar makes it less harsh.
0:28:26 > 0:28:30The white wine the same way, one quick bowl. Voila!
0:28:30 > 0:28:32Tomatoes and herbs.
0:28:33 > 0:28:36In goes the chicken. It's a simple, everyday dish,
0:28:36 > 0:28:39perfect for the humble surroundings of the bouchon.
0:28:39 > 0:28:44Parfait. I tell my other girl, always, always taste, taste, taste.
0:28:44 > 0:28:46Just to put all the evolution of those flavours,
0:28:46 > 0:28:49and how each part or each flavour
0:28:49 > 0:28:52works together and helps with each other.
0:28:52 > 0:28:55Put it in a low oven, and it will be ready in an hour.
0:28:55 > 0:28:58The worst thing you can do to your chicken is to boil it.
0:28:58 > 0:29:01Cos every muscle will contract, it'll become very dry.
0:29:01 > 0:29:06I mean, what a shame, that beautiful chicken to be treated in such a way.
0:29:06 > 0:29:08And don't boil the beans, either.
0:29:08 > 0:29:11Raymond's mother taught him to add butter, a splash of water,
0:29:11 > 0:29:13and steam them quickly.
0:29:13 > 0:29:16The bean flavour, the juices come out and mix themselves
0:29:16 > 0:29:19through the water butter to reinforce their own flavour.
0:29:19 > 0:29:22And after this we'll know it was fun.
0:29:23 > 0:29:26Look at that! Oh, look at that!
0:29:36 > 0:29:40With the chicken tender and the sauce perfect, Raymond is content
0:29:40 > 0:29:44that the main course will be a fitting one for his Lyonnais guests.
0:29:50 > 0:29:52One of the reasons the city of Lyon
0:29:52 > 0:29:55continues to be a jewel of French cuisine
0:29:55 > 0:29:59is because the most famous restaurateur in France is here - Paul Bocuse.
0:29:59 > 0:30:03The great chef has been Raymond's inspiration and mentor,
0:30:03 > 0:30:07so a visit to see him is essential whilst in the city.
0:30:10 > 0:30:11- Paul!- Ca va?
0:30:14 > 0:30:17- Vous faites des specialites lyonnaises?- Oui!
0:30:17 > 0:30:20This kitchen has won three Michelin stars every year since 1965.
0:30:20 > 0:30:23If they restored the monarchy in France, he'd be king
0:30:23 > 0:30:28and in the court of King Paul, a hat is compulsory.
0:30:33 > 0:30:35I have to have a hat.
0:30:37 > 0:30:38Parfait.
0:30:38 > 0:30:42'I remember the first time I was a chef, because I was totally self-taught,'
0:30:42 > 0:30:45I took the longest stalk, I could barely enter the kitchen!
0:30:45 > 0:30:49- Sortez mon chapeau. - Donnez-le un tablier, tiens.- Voila.
0:30:51 > 0:30:55Paul was awarded France's highest honour, the Legion d'honneur,
0:30:55 > 0:30:57for his great influence on French food,
0:30:57 > 0:31:00but it is the proud insignia of France's great artisans
0:31:00 > 0:31:02that he wears every day.
0:31:02 > 0:31:06When you see a French chef wearing this, it's not for decoration,
0:31:06 > 0:31:09it's the most... You are one of the top craftsmen.
0:31:12 > 0:31:16Ah, thank you. He's paying me a compliment now.
0:31:16 > 0:31:22They're all smiles now, but it didn't start like that. When Raymond opened his first restaurant,
0:31:22 > 0:31:24he made something of a faux pas.
0:31:24 > 0:31:29He'd written to Paul looking for advice on notepaper
0:31:29 > 0:31:32proudly headed by a logo he'd found in an old French book.
0:31:32 > 0:31:35Unfortunately, it wasn't just any old logo.
0:31:42 > 0:31:46Raymond soon heard back from his request.
0:32:00 > 0:32:05Raymond wisely dropped the logo and Paul later visited his restaurant.
0:32:05 > 0:32:07That's how you bring both your family to my place
0:32:07 > 0:32:10and we had the most wonderful time.
0:32:10 > 0:32:14That was one of the proudest moments of my life.
0:32:14 > 0:32:17- Voila.- Voila.
0:32:17 > 0:32:22For a Frenchman exiled in Britain, this was an exceptional blessing.
0:32:25 > 0:32:28And as a self-taught person,
0:32:28 > 0:32:32completely outside of the top professional like Paul,
0:32:32 > 0:32:35that brought me in, and Paul was the very first.
0:32:35 > 0:32:36"Raymond, come in."
0:32:41 > 0:32:43He was the first to bring me in, OK?
0:32:43 > 0:32:47After our little incident.
0:32:47 > 0:32:50Paul Bocuse encouraged a generation of young chefs
0:32:50 > 0:32:52to own their own restaurants.
0:32:52 > 0:32:55Before, chefs were working for employers.
0:32:55 > 0:32:59He was the one pushing these young people to work for themselves.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02If I'm here, it's certainly very much because of him.
0:33:06 > 0:33:09But Raymond's visit is not complete.
0:33:09 > 0:33:11Paul wants to show him his banqueting suite.
0:33:11 > 0:33:13Look at that.
0:33:13 > 0:33:16ORGAN PLAYS "ENTRY OF THE GLADIATORS" BY JULIUS FUCIK
0:33:25 > 0:33:29The walls are adorned with the names of great chefs,
0:33:29 > 0:33:33all great friends and admirers of Paul.
0:33:35 > 0:33:39And up there, the name of a certain self-taught Oxfordshire chef.
0:33:39 > 0:33:42There are fewer greater honours for a chef
0:33:42 > 0:33:44than to be recognised by Paul Bocuse.
0:33:44 > 0:33:48'What we've seen here is very much part of Paul,
0:33:48 > 0:33:51'that spirit which is very fun, different...'
0:33:53 > 0:33:56..curious, and it's about "life is fun".
0:33:59 > 0:34:03'He's 85, you know, he speaks like a child as well'
0:34:03 > 0:34:05and I like that very much.
0:34:16 > 0:34:19Paul Bocuse is so famous in Lyon,
0:34:19 > 0:34:21he's even got a market named after him.
0:34:23 > 0:34:28Behind this horrible facade lies the culture of Lyon -
0:34:28 > 0:34:29its food.
0:34:29 > 0:34:34It's incredible, you will see allees after allees of mountains of food,
0:34:34 > 0:34:38all the very best, the best artisan cheese, fish, meat,
0:34:38 > 0:34:40mountains of Rosette de Lyon,
0:34:40 > 0:34:43sausages from everywhere, tripe and all,
0:34:43 > 0:34:44it is quite an incredible place.
0:34:46 > 0:34:49If they gave Michelin stars to indoor markets,
0:34:49 > 0:34:52this one would have three.
0:34:56 > 0:34:59It's like the food halls of Harrods, but better, and everywhere,
0:34:59 > 0:35:03the great man looks down on you like a culinary deity -
0:35:03 > 0:35:05even the pies are the best.
0:35:05 > 0:35:08This dish is a seriously popular dish in Lyon.
0:35:08 > 0:35:12It's called pate en croute, which is effectively a pork pie.
0:35:12 > 0:35:15Sometimes you can show it, really -
0:35:15 > 0:35:19they've got this little, you know, little Buddha,
0:35:19 > 0:35:21this little belly.
0:35:21 > 0:35:23They wear it very well, quite high,
0:35:23 > 0:35:27because that muscle, the stomach, has got to work so hard
0:35:27 > 0:35:32every minute of the day because they eat so much food! I can't believe it!
0:35:32 > 0:35:37This market is also home to a few of the legendary meres de Lyon,
0:35:37 > 0:35:41- who run successful businesses here. - Madame Richard, bonjour, bonjour.
0:35:41 > 0:35:45This cheese shop is run by la mere Renee Richard.
0:35:46 > 0:35:48INAUDIBLE
0:35:48 > 0:35:51Ca vient du coeur. Et ca vient aussi de Paul.
0:35:51 > 0:35:54She makes her own unique fromage blanc from goat's milk.
0:35:54 > 0:35:59It's used in Lyon's most famous cheese dish, cervelle de canut.
0:35:59 > 0:36:01This translates as "silk weaver's brains",
0:36:01 > 0:36:06because it was very popular with the workers in the city's factories.
0:36:06 > 0:36:08Voila. Like in a kitchen.
0:36:11 > 0:36:15You see, I love this in Lyon, that conviviality.
0:36:15 > 0:36:20There's no... The health and safety rules are not so closely observed,
0:36:20 > 0:36:22but my God, that's delicious.
0:36:22 > 0:36:26If fromage blanc is the cheese to eat every day,
0:36:26 > 0:36:29then St Marcellin is the cheese for special occasions.
0:36:44 > 0:36:47Beautiful acidity, wonderful balance,
0:36:47 > 0:36:50creamy - there's no chalk inside.
0:36:51 > 0:36:56St Marcellin and cervelle de canut is truly the two cheeses
0:36:56 > 0:37:01which are on every table in every restaurant, in every family in Lyon
0:37:01 > 0:37:03and beyond as well.
0:37:05 > 0:37:08From the queen of cheese to the chateau of charcuterie,
0:37:08 > 0:37:12and lunch companion la mere Colette Sibilia.
0:37:12 > 0:37:14Her produce is famous throughout France.
0:37:14 > 0:37:18Madame Sibilia's signature sausage is the Rosette de Lyon.
0:37:18 > 0:37:23This cured sausage is produced in the hills surrounding the city.
0:37:23 > 0:37:25D'abord, c'est un peu gros.
0:37:34 > 0:37:37Her Rosette is made from a recipe handed down
0:37:37 > 0:37:40to Colette 60 years by her mother-in-law.
0:37:40 > 0:37:43Raymond wants to know the secret.
0:37:49 > 0:37:52And because everyone in France is on a diet,
0:37:52 > 0:37:55Colette makes a Rosette with only 10% fat.
0:37:58 > 0:38:03First the French prefer less garlic and now there's a low-fat sausage option - what's going on?!
0:38:10 > 0:38:12Parfait. I will take that.
0:38:12 > 0:38:17This may not be her favourite, but it's interesting how one of the meres of Lyon is keeping
0:38:17 > 0:38:20an eye on the fat content,
0:38:20 > 0:38:23ever mindful of the chic crowd that live in the city.
0:38:32 > 0:38:36Raymond knows one dish that's always popular is the legendary
0:38:36 > 0:38:40Salade Lyonnaise. Originally prepared with dandelion leaves,
0:38:40 > 0:38:43Raymond has a more contemporary idea.
0:38:43 > 0:38:46He has sent Katie and Kush to an outdoor market
0:38:46 > 0:38:50- to source ingredients. - Bonjour, madame. Je voudrais...acheter une salade.
0:38:52 > 0:38:53- Merci.- Merci.
0:38:56 > 0:38:59- I think that's everything.- Yeah.
0:39:00 > 0:39:03Raymond is going to make a perfect Lyonnaise Salad.
0:39:03 > 0:39:09It is perhaps ironic that meat-loving Lyon's most famous dish is a salad,
0:39:09 > 0:39:12but then it is made with bacon!
0:39:13 > 0:39:16We've got a lovely escarole. That's my favourite,
0:39:16 > 0:39:19that is really my favourite. It's called "ice queen".
0:39:19 > 0:39:23That's the first salad that we grew in my garden.
0:39:23 > 0:39:28That's a favourite of my papa as well. Reine des glaces - ice queen. Just nice big pieces. Parfait.
0:39:31 > 0:39:36Contrasting textures work wonderfully well so with the lettuce and soft egg,
0:39:36 > 0:39:38Raymond is making some crispy bacon.
0:39:40 > 0:39:43Going to dry it in the oven to make it crisp and dry,
0:39:43 > 0:39:47so very pretty as well and a lovely texture and flavour.
0:39:47 > 0:39:51To make sure they keep their shape perfect.
0:39:51 > 0:39:55To get the crunchy texture, Raymond puts it in a low oven for two hours.
0:39:56 > 0:39:58Now we're going to poach our eggs.
0:40:00 > 0:40:02And to get the best poached egg,
0:40:02 > 0:40:07- they must be fresh. - So, let's see how fresh our eggs are.
0:40:09 > 0:40:12Well, it's good,
0:40:12 > 0:40:14but how good is it, Kush?
0:40:14 > 0:40:17Tell me how fresh that egg is - one day, two days?
0:40:17 > 0:40:20I'd say at least a week, chef. Bit longer possibly.
0:40:20 > 0:40:23It should be gathered around its friend, the yolk.
0:40:27 > 0:40:28OK, again.
0:40:30 > 0:40:34Raymond adds white wine vinegar to encourage the egg white
0:40:34 > 0:40:36to cling tightly to the yolk.
0:40:38 > 0:40:42If you have that fresh an egg, you don't even need the vinegar. Don't drop it, slide it.
0:40:42 > 0:40:46Slide the egg in gently to give the poached egg an elegant shape.
0:40:46 > 0:40:48Voila, perfect.
0:40:48 > 0:40:51What we are doing here, we're pre-cooking the egg
0:40:51 > 0:40:54so after three minutes, it'll be rare so then you stop the cooking
0:40:54 > 0:40:57in cold water and then you can use it a few hours after.
0:40:57 > 0:40:59Perfect, very good.
0:40:59 > 0:41:03To assemble the salad, simply reheat the egg in hot water.
0:41:04 > 0:41:08- Now for Maman Blanc's mustard dressing.- Where's the garlic?
0:41:08 > 0:41:10- A "gosh".- A gauche! Your French is so appalling!
0:41:10 > 0:41:12- A gauche.- A gauche.
0:41:14 > 0:41:16Add garlic and a shallot...
0:41:16 > 0:41:18You can use any onions you want to,
0:41:18 > 0:41:21but the shallots have a more refined flavour.
0:41:21 > 0:41:27..a smooth and pungent Dijon mustard and a top-notch white wine vinegar.
0:41:27 > 0:41:29- Kush, can you open that up for me, please?- Yeah.
0:41:33 > 0:41:38A useful tip - add some warm water to create a lovely creamy texture.
0:41:38 > 0:41:41If you see water and oil, they don't mix.
0:41:41 > 0:41:45It's only by emulsifying them that you are able to do so.
0:41:45 > 0:41:50The warm water is helping with the wonderful binding process.
0:41:57 > 0:42:01That will keep for a whole year in your fridge.
0:42:01 > 0:42:02Voila.
0:42:02 > 0:42:07Got a nice, beautiful, little...bacon here.
0:42:07 > 0:42:11With all the elements ready, time to put this salad together.
0:42:11 > 0:42:14Remember, you can always add - you cannot take away.
0:42:17 > 0:42:20That's really... I can tell you, beautiful.
0:42:23 > 0:42:26Kush, you just created yourself a Salade Lyonnaise.
0:42:26 > 0:42:28But look what the egg does.
0:42:29 > 0:42:32Look at that, look at that! Beautiful.
0:42:32 > 0:42:34So let's taste.
0:42:37 > 0:42:40Beautiful texture, wonderful flavour.
0:42:40 > 0:42:44A bit of acid, a bit of... Great flavours, non?
0:42:44 > 0:42:49That's the magic of food, that's why we love it so much, more than often...
0:42:49 > 0:42:54- Yes, chef.- Whatever! Maybe not, not in this programme!
0:43:02 > 0:43:05The savoury elements of the menu have been finalised.
0:43:05 > 0:43:09What Raymond needs now is an amazing dessert, one that will create
0:43:09 > 0:43:12a memorable finale for the feast,
0:43:12 > 0:43:15and in Lyon, that has to be chocolate.
0:43:15 > 0:43:17Lyon has a long history of being home
0:43:17 > 0:43:21to the best chocolate makers in France. This tradition continues at Bernachon,
0:43:21 > 0:43:25where Raymond has brought Katie-Beth, chocolate lover and keen patissiere.
0:43:34 > 0:43:38Front of house is dominated by a grand patisserie and chocolate shop.
0:43:40 > 0:43:43They make all their own cakes and their own chocolate,
0:43:43 > 0:43:46right from the bean to the box.
0:43:50 > 0:43:53This place is one of the only ones
0:43:53 > 0:43:58in Europe to make all of its chocolates from cocoa beans.
0:43:58 > 0:44:03Paul Bocuse's influence is here, too - the business is run by his grandson, Philippe Bernachon.
0:44:07 > 0:44:10When they say their chocolates are handmade,
0:44:10 > 0:44:12that means every last detail.
0:44:13 > 0:44:16Ah, voila. Oh, regarde. 40 years of...
0:44:16 > 0:44:19They all have hands of fairies, look at that.
0:44:19 > 0:44:24Little nimble hands, how they're able to force this silvery paper around.
0:44:24 > 0:44:25Beautiful.
0:44:30 > 0:44:33Oh la la, j'arriverai jamais!
0:44:33 > 0:44:36No, no, no, I would never do that, never in my life!
0:44:37 > 0:44:40Time to see the factory.
0:44:43 > 0:44:47Philippe's father was in chocolate and his grandfather before him.
0:44:47 > 0:44:50Oh, you smell the "chocolat", oh la la!
0:44:50 > 0:44:54Like coffee, there are lots of different kinds of beans,
0:44:54 > 0:44:58each with a different taste depending on where they're grown.
0:44:58 > 0:45:02"Chocolat" is a bit like wine, OK, it needs different terroirs.
0:45:02 > 0:45:04According to where it's grown, it will be acid,
0:45:04 > 0:45:07it will be slightly more bitter, or more rounded.
0:45:09 > 0:45:12Each of these varieties have got a character.
0:45:12 > 0:45:17At Bernachon, they roast their own beans and then grind them.
0:45:20 > 0:45:22The paste is then conched.
0:45:22 > 0:45:25Cocoa butter is added and the mix is sweetened.
0:45:26 > 0:45:29Look at that beautiful old machine, look at it!
0:45:33 > 0:45:38It's heated and cooled to temper it to obtain a beautiful glossy smoothness,
0:45:38 > 0:45:41with the chocolate content Raymond wants.
0:45:42 > 0:45:47The strength of "chocolat" I'm looking for in my dessert is about 70% to 80%.
0:45:47 > 0:45:52What does it mean? 80% pure cocoa beans, only 20% sugar.
0:45:52 > 0:45:54That means very low sugar.
0:45:57 > 0:46:01One of the chocolate makers is making their signature President cake.
0:46:10 > 0:46:13Now it's Raymond's turn and that might be a challenge.
0:46:20 > 0:46:22OK.
0:46:34 > 0:46:37I'm cooling down my hands so the chocolate doesn't melt
0:46:37 > 0:46:38when I handle it.
0:46:38 > 0:46:42Every great patissier has cold hands. I've got warm hands.
0:46:43 > 0:46:44Oh, fini.
0:46:47 > 0:46:49And this is what it should look like.
0:46:49 > 0:46:52It was created for the 50th birthday of President Giscard d'Estaing.
0:47:00 > 0:47:03Raymond's might be more peasant than President,
0:47:03 > 0:47:05but what does it taste like?
0:47:09 > 0:47:14Oh, I see the liqueur oozing out.
0:47:29 > 0:47:32Philippe's chocolate is perfect for Raymond.
0:47:39 > 0:47:41- Merci.- Merci. Merci bien.
0:47:41 > 0:47:42- Merci.- Goodbye.
0:47:42 > 0:47:45La petite chocolatiere. On y va. Allez.
0:47:49 > 0:47:53So far, everything on Raymond's menu pays homage to the great recipes of Leon.
0:47:53 > 0:47:58His dessert however, will bring a taste of Raymond's adopted home.
0:47:58 > 0:48:02He's going to make a chocolate tart with a little British twist.
0:48:02 > 0:48:05We will give them a lovely chocolate dessert.
0:48:05 > 0:48:09Beautiful chocolate tart served on an English crumble.
0:48:09 > 0:48:11Croomble, would say the French.
0:48:11 > 0:48:13OK? Flour.
0:48:13 > 0:48:15Almond powder.
0:48:15 > 0:48:17Demerara sugar but grounded.
0:48:17 > 0:48:20That's what gives it an amazing texture as well.
0:48:20 > 0:48:24Cocoa powder and butter are added before it's brought together
0:48:24 > 0:48:25in a food processor.
0:48:35 > 0:48:38You can see my weakness.
0:48:38 > 0:48:40Sorry. Voila.
0:48:41 > 0:48:43Now we are going to freeze it.
0:48:44 > 0:48:49Before freezing, Raymond rolls out the dough with a rolling pin.
0:48:49 > 0:48:51Voila.
0:48:51 > 0:48:55- Failing that, a roll of cling film will do.- OK.
0:48:55 > 0:48:58I want it to be really crumbly. Big fat crumbles.
0:48:58 > 0:49:00You know, texture explodes in your mouth.
0:49:00 > 0:49:06So, perfect. Give me this. It's very frozen.
0:49:08 > 0:49:11Next, the frozen dough goes back into the food processor.
0:49:11 > 0:49:12Voila.
0:49:14 > 0:49:17Then I will have a crumble, you see? Nice big nuggets.
0:49:17 > 0:49:19Very rough.
0:49:19 > 0:49:23By squeezing it you are going to create this wonderful rough.
0:49:23 > 0:49:26Gorgeous. Delicious crunchy texture.
0:49:26 > 0:49:30The chocolate crumble is now put in the oven to create
0:49:30 > 0:49:32the texture Raymond wants.
0:49:39 > 0:49:43That's the chocolate crumble base. Now for the topping. A ganache.
0:49:43 > 0:49:47Ganache is a very fancy word which is just chocolate and cream
0:49:47 > 0:49:48that you mould together.
0:49:48 > 0:49:52As it melts, the quality of the chocolate shows through.
0:49:52 > 0:49:55There's more butter there. There's more cocoa butter in it
0:49:55 > 0:49:57and more sugar of course.
0:49:57 > 0:49:59It melts very quickly.
0:49:59 > 0:50:01Oh, look at that.
0:50:01 > 0:50:02Next, cream.
0:50:05 > 0:50:07I've got a ganache, OK?
0:50:14 > 0:50:19So, I'm whisking this mixture. OK? In order to...
0:50:19 > 0:50:21bring more air inside.
0:50:21 > 0:50:24To make it even lighter. And you know that the cook
0:50:24 > 0:50:28has taken all of his heart and his brain to add something to it.
0:50:28 > 0:50:30That little je ne sais quoi.
0:50:34 > 0:50:38It looks lovely. All the smell of Lyon there, fantastic. Beautiful.
0:50:39 > 0:50:43The chocolate ganache goes on to the crumble base to set.
0:50:45 > 0:50:47Hmmm. look at that.
0:50:47 > 0:50:49Isn't it fantastic?
0:50:49 > 0:50:51I'm a chocolate lover.
0:50:53 > 0:50:57Now, even for chocolate lovers, this is a rich dessert.
0:50:57 > 0:50:59So for contrast, a ginger, lime and butterscotch sauce.
0:51:07 > 0:51:10Oh, la, la, la. C'est... so lovely.
0:51:23 > 0:51:25Crumbly and just...
0:51:27 > 0:51:31A little bit of Great Britain below, a little bit of France on top.
0:51:38 > 0:51:40The day of the feast has arrived.
0:51:40 > 0:51:45This evening, Raymond is cooking for 20 guests at his borrowed bouchon,
0:51:45 > 0:51:48the Cafe des Federations in downtown Lyon.
0:51:48 > 0:51:52The red and white checked tablecloths
0:51:52 > 0:51:56complement the largely traditional dishes Raymond has chosen to serve.
0:51:56 > 0:52:00This meal is the culmination of his journey through Lyonnais cuisine.
0:52:00 > 0:52:04He has created a menu of classic local dishes with a few surprises thrown in.
0:52:04 > 0:52:07Now, this dessert. You don't know.
0:52:07 > 0:52:11Raymond's decided to make his guests feel at home by serving
0:52:11 > 0:52:13a Lyonnais favourite as a canape.
0:52:13 > 0:52:16So, I'm doing some tripes. They love it.
0:52:16 > 0:52:21A special part is called a bonnet. That's the lower part of the stomach.
0:52:21 > 0:52:23And it's thick and rich and gelatinous.
0:52:25 > 0:52:27And is delicious.
0:52:27 > 0:52:29I think there going to love this, maybe.
0:52:32 > 0:52:34OK, les enfants, the guests are arriving at 7 o'clock, OK?
0:52:34 > 0:52:36Oui.
0:52:36 > 0:52:40Don't leave that here, please. No, immediately, please, thank you.
0:52:40 > 0:52:43No matter how many Raymond is cooking for, whether it's two
0:52:43 > 0:52:46or 20, he always wants everything to be as perfect as possible...
0:52:48 > 0:52:50- Needs lifting?- Yes. OK?
0:52:50 > 0:52:54..which is even more of a challenge in an unfamiliar kitchen.
0:52:54 > 0:52:58- OK. 7 o'clock the guests are arriving at. OK?- Oui, chef.
0:53:01 > 0:53:04There is lots that can go wrong, so the pressure is building.
0:53:04 > 0:53:06Oh, la, la. Oh, la, la, la, la.
0:53:06 > 0:53:08OK? Don't worry. OK?
0:53:08 > 0:53:11It is just simmering.
0:53:11 > 0:53:14A little bit of a stir. Oh, oh. Hop!
0:53:17 > 0:53:18HE LAUGHS
0:53:19 > 0:53:21You slide your egg in.
0:53:22 > 0:53:25Old friends and new are here for the feast.
0:53:28 > 0:53:32Their sense of anticipation feeds into Raymond's desire
0:53:32 > 0:53:33to do as well as he can.
0:53:33 > 0:53:37First, the tripe canape to whet the appetites
0:53:37 > 0:53:40of his offal-loving Lyonnais guests.
0:53:52 > 0:53:58Next, the salad Lyonnais with that extra-special, extra-crispy bacon.
0:53:58 > 0:54:01Oh, look at that, beautiful Lyon. So simple.
0:54:12 > 0:54:16No, it's perfect. You see the difference? It's absolutely perfect.
0:54:16 > 0:54:19And I really love the small piece of beacon on this
0:54:19 > 0:54:21because every crunch is perfect.
0:54:26 > 0:54:28Now, Lyon's revered pike quenelle
0:54:28 > 0:54:32which Raymond has taken such care over perfecting,
0:54:32 > 0:54:34to make as light as possible.
0:54:34 > 0:54:37They are beautiful. Well done guys.
0:54:37 > 0:54:43But will his guests, including good friend and two-Michelin-starred chef Pierre Orsi,
0:54:43 > 0:54:46concede he's got it right?
0:54:48 > 0:54:49Tres bon.
0:54:49 > 0:54:53C'est delicieux. It's one of the best quenelles Lyonnais ever.
0:54:53 > 0:54:56The quenelle have to be light, you see.
0:54:57 > 0:54:59Very light.
0:54:59 > 0:55:01I think he made a really good recipe.
0:55:14 > 0:55:15It's wonderful.
0:55:22 > 0:55:26As Kush and Katie serve the chicken with vinegar, Raymond decides
0:55:26 > 0:55:29to make an unplanned addition to the chocolate dessert.
0:55:29 > 0:55:32Beignet. Let's go this way, guys.
0:55:32 > 0:55:37- It's a speciality in Lyon. - Beignets.- Smaller, voila.
0:55:37 > 0:55:41Should be fine. Yes, starts to go up. As soon as it...
0:55:43 > 0:55:46Maybe it's got phase three. This dessert...
0:55:46 > 0:55:49It should be frying fast, so fast.
0:55:54 > 0:55:57I'm not a very good technician, as you can see.
0:55:57 > 0:56:00I can, I will fail every time when it comes down to technique.
0:56:02 > 0:56:05They are going to dip this bugne in their chocolate sauce.
0:56:05 > 0:56:07What more do you want in life?
0:56:25 > 0:56:28And there's one man who really knows his onions
0:56:28 > 0:56:29when it comes to chocolate.
0:56:29 > 0:56:33Philippe Bernachon...
0:56:33 > 0:56:36whose prized dark chocolate is at the heart of Raymond's tart.
0:56:45 > 0:56:50It's not typically, I would say, a recipe Lyonnaise.
0:56:50 > 0:56:55But chocolate made in Lyon, that is for sure is the best.
0:56:55 > 0:56:57C'est beau et c'est bon.
0:56:57 > 0:57:01It's nearly a dream. Nearly a dream.
0:57:28 > 0:57:32Thank you very much for trusting me and with my two friends
0:57:32 > 0:57:36Kush and Katie, and I hope we've been able to give you a lovely meal,
0:57:36 > 0:57:38a pleasant meal.
0:57:38 > 0:57:42The plates are clean as well. I love to see that, you know? Well, isn't it marvellous.
0:57:42 > 0:57:44Thank you. We enjoy our evening as well.
0:57:44 > 0:57:48- We are very grateful to come tonight. Merci.- Thank you.
0:57:48 > 0:57:51APPLAUSE
0:57:51 > 0:57:55HE SINGS
0:57:55 > 0:57:59THEY ALL SING AND CLAP
0:58:10 > 0:58:14Next time, Raymond continues his culinary journey in Alsace.
0:58:14 > 0:58:17Ohh, la, la.
0:58:17 > 0:58:21The food we're going to offer sums up the beauty of Alsace.
0:58:21 > 0:58:24Oh, it's wonderful. It's fresh, it's beautiful.
0:58:24 > 0:58:26I'm the happiest man on earth.
0:58:27 > 0:58:30I say we're on for a good feast. I think so.
0:58:43 > 0:58:47Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd