Game and Mushrooms

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0:00:02 > 0:00:06For the last 35 years, renowned chef Raymond Blanc has inspired the world with his cooking.

0:00:06 > 0:00:12It's about celebrating that gorgeous glorious food and sharing a special moment with your loved ones.

0:00:12 > 0:00:17Now he's opening his kitchen and sharing his secrets.

0:00:17 > 0:00:22I've made all the mistakes which could be made so you don't have to make them yourself.

0:00:22 > 0:00:24- Showing, with a little effort... - Food is so, so beautiful.

0:00:24 > 0:00:28..anyone can bring some joy to the dinner table.

0:00:28 > 0:00:32Even the most complicated dish is not impossible to make.

0:00:36 > 0:00:43On Kitchen Secrets, Raymond shares his favourite recipes for two of the most seasonal ingredients.

0:00:43 > 0:00:44- Mushrooms.- Tres bien. Nice.

0:00:44 > 0:00:48- And game.- What's happened to her?

0:00:48 > 0:00:52On the menu, sep tortellini with fresh pasta.

0:00:52 > 0:00:56Served with sage butter and toasted hazelnuts.

0:00:56 > 0:00:58With produce like that, you know, it's heaven.

0:00:58 > 0:01:02A tasty supper dish of pheasant in puff pastry.

0:01:02 > 0:01:06It looks stunning and it tastes absolutely marvellous.

0:01:06 > 0:01:11A simple fricassee that celebrates wild mushrooms.

0:01:11 > 0:01:16And to finish, an impressive whole pigeon cooked in its own salt crust.

0:01:16 > 0:01:18You must have this once in your lifetime.

0:01:25 > 0:01:30In his Oxfordshire kitchen, Raymond puts seasonality at the core of his cooking.

0:01:33 > 0:01:38Can I have some more sage? Can you give me some sage which is big sage, not baby sage?

0:01:42 > 0:01:44First, a mushroom tortellini.

0:01:48 > 0:01:50If you cannot find the seps, no problem.

0:01:50 > 0:01:55Get nice big fat Portobello mushrooms. They're fleshy and lovely.

0:01:55 > 0:01:57Make sure they are young.

0:01:57 > 0:02:01Raymond is using seps, also called porcini or penny buns.

0:02:01 > 0:02:05They are prized by mushroom lovers for their earthy flavour.

0:02:05 > 0:02:07Cutting them very fine like that.

0:02:07 > 0:02:12You can do that in here as well. It's a bit inelegant.

0:02:12 > 0:02:15Particularly with seps, give them the right treatment.

0:02:17 > 0:02:19Olive oil, tres bien.

0:02:20 > 0:02:21Now we can go.

0:02:21 > 0:02:23So make sure it's very hot.

0:02:23 > 0:02:24We want to brown them a little bit.

0:02:24 > 0:02:28Not too much, but just a bit of colour. Lightly brown.

0:02:28 > 0:02:31Very, very quick. About two minutes on strong heat.

0:02:32 > 0:02:33Voila.

0:02:34 > 0:02:38Add some finely chopped shallots and a crushed garlic clove.

0:02:38 > 0:02:41Tres bien. Oh. That is so lovely.

0:02:43 > 0:02:47OK. I put a bit of lemon juice to keep them nice and white. OK.

0:02:47 > 0:02:49And also to bring out the flavour.

0:02:49 > 0:02:51Always taste.

0:02:54 > 0:02:55Very nice.

0:02:55 > 0:02:59With produce like that, you know, it's heaven for a cook. No?

0:02:59 > 0:03:00They're the best.

0:03:02 > 0:03:03Now begin the fresh pasta.

0:03:04 > 0:03:07Give a good clean here. Take that out. Clear all that out.

0:03:08 > 0:03:12Raymond is using 200 grams of flour and two eggs.

0:03:12 > 0:03:13So simple.

0:03:18 > 0:03:2580...183 gram, so instead of 200 gram you give me 183 gram.

0:03:25 > 0:03:29You inched it out earlier, sorry, Chef, when you was drying it.

0:03:29 > 0:03:32- Well, if you seen that, just replace it.- Yeah, I didn't realise.

0:03:32 > 0:03:34OK.

0:03:37 > 0:03:41A food processor makes pasta-making very simple.

0:03:42 > 0:03:44I'm not very technical.

0:03:44 > 0:03:45Never been in my life.

0:03:46 > 0:03:48Pulse the flour and eggs together.

0:03:48 > 0:03:52And then you finish off with the hand. Just a tiny bit of flour.

0:03:52 > 0:03:55Very little.

0:03:55 > 0:03:57Voila.

0:03:57 > 0:04:02What we are doing here, I'm doing a number of things.

0:04:02 > 0:04:09I make that gluten work out, also I'm pressing in the water so better absorption by the flour.

0:04:09 > 0:04:15And when you eat a good pasta that you have a nice chew that it's been well worked out.

0:04:15 > 0:04:21If I do my pasta like that straightway it wouldn't be very good so I give it nice body and strength.

0:04:21 > 0:04:25Then chill the pasta for at least 30 minutes before you start to roll it.

0:04:25 > 0:04:27Voila.

0:04:30 > 0:04:35Voila, so we've got our first through here which is nice.

0:04:35 > 0:04:37So I will do a double joint here.

0:04:37 > 0:04:42- Pasta can be rolled by hand, but a machine creates a smooth and even finish.- Voila.

0:04:42 > 0:04:44Thin it down as you go along.

0:04:45 > 0:04:48And when I'm rolling I'm slightly stretching the pasta.

0:04:48 > 0:04:51Roll to a thickness of 1mm.

0:04:51 > 0:04:53Egg yolk. Is it done, please?

0:04:54 > 0:04:56Voila. Tres bien.

0:04:56 > 0:04:58Egg yolk sticks the pasta together.

0:05:00 > 0:05:01And then wrap

0:05:01 > 0:05:03this side here and you just seal.

0:05:03 > 0:05:06OK. Seal in between.

0:05:06 > 0:05:11So make sure you don't have air as well inside because air will expand and burst your ravioli.

0:05:11 > 0:05:14Use a pastry cutter to shape the tortellini evenly.

0:05:14 > 0:05:17It's a bit more work but it's quite lovely.

0:05:17 > 0:05:20The best way is to press the middle here.

0:05:20 > 0:05:25Then bring the two ends here, bring it back and press.

0:05:25 > 0:05:29OK. Please, Dan, can you give me a hand, please?

0:05:29 > 0:05:33So we can tidy up here before we cook the ravioli. Thank you very much.

0:05:36 > 0:05:41So now that my tortellinis are ready, the whole dish comes together.

0:05:41 > 0:05:43You need to boil them. It mustn't be a simmering boil.

0:05:43 > 0:05:45It must be a galloping boil.

0:05:45 > 0:05:49A full boil so the water doesn't sift through the tortellini

0:05:49 > 0:05:50into the stuffing. OK.

0:05:50 > 0:05:55Boiling water cooks the pasta quickly and reduces the risk of it bursting.

0:05:55 > 0:06:00Three looks too small when it sits in a line. Four looks always wrong.

0:06:00 > 0:06:04But five works. Somehow five does work.

0:06:04 > 0:06:06Next, a herb butter sauce.

0:06:06 > 0:06:08You just need that much of butter.

0:06:08 > 0:06:12So that's for one portion.

0:06:12 > 0:06:14Start it to colour nicely.

0:06:14 > 0:06:18Add finely chopped chives and sage with a little water to create an emulsion.

0:06:18 > 0:06:22And a dash of lemon juice just to sharpen it up.

0:06:24 > 0:06:29That's a simple jus and works so well with that little bit of cheese.

0:06:29 > 0:06:32So very simple little jus.

0:06:34 > 0:06:37Finish with some chopped toasted hazelnuts.

0:06:44 > 0:06:47My god, it's lovely.

0:06:49 > 0:06:53Raymond puts provenance at the forefront of his approach to cooking.

0:06:55 > 0:07:02- Beautiful rolling mountains here. - He's in Scotland with his restaurant maintenance manager Steve Truman.

0:07:02 > 0:07:06They're joining a game shoot on the Trinity Gask Estate near Auchterarder in Perthshire.

0:07:06 > 0:07:12If he still wants his job tomorrow, I think he knows very well I'm a very bad loser.

0:07:12 > 0:07:14Still after 35 years in Great Britain.

0:07:14 > 0:07:17And the one who is going to get the most today is going to be me.

0:07:17 > 0:07:19It's got to be.

0:07:21 > 0:07:23Jamie Roberts is the estate owner.

0:07:23 > 0:07:25So what are we going to shoot today?

0:07:25 > 0:07:27Well, we're going to do two drives.

0:07:27 > 0:07:31We're going to do a duck drive and then we're going to do a pheasant drive.

0:07:31 > 0:07:34Do you trust a Frenchman close to you with a gun?

0:07:34 > 0:07:37Well, if I stand very close I should be OK.

0:07:37 > 0:07:40You should say yes, because, come on, guys, there is an old alliance here.

0:07:40 > 0:07:43Those guys they've got much more to fear than you have.

0:07:43 > 0:07:45They're English, OK.

0:07:46 > 0:07:48Beautiful. My god.

0:07:50 > 0:07:52Right, gentleman.

0:07:52 > 0:07:54Do you remember which one? Yeah, that's your one.

0:07:54 > 0:07:56Yours is the smallest. OK.

0:07:56 > 0:08:01For Raymond, shooting his own food makes perfect sense.

0:08:01 > 0:08:09For me, there is no hypocrisy about food, OK? And killing game to eat it seems to be perfectly straight.

0:08:09 > 0:08:12Fine. As long as you don't make the animal suffer.

0:08:12 > 0:08:14And, of course...

0:08:14 > 0:08:16COWS MOO

0:08:15 > 0:08:16Shut up!

0:08:32 > 0:08:33GUNFIRE

0:08:33 > 0:08:35Shoot in front to the left.

0:08:43 > 0:08:44Right, got your go.

0:08:44 > 0:08:46Too high.

0:08:49 > 0:08:52- No duck for Raymond.- I think it's a very good day for the birds.

0:08:52 > 0:08:57There will be a lot of happy ducks that will not end up, OK, into the pot for tonight.

0:08:57 > 0:09:02So c'est la vie. Sometimes they win, sometimes you lose, so today I lost.

0:09:02 > 0:09:04It's all right.

0:09:04 > 0:09:06- You did well.- How many?

0:09:06 > 0:09:10- Three.- Oh, fair enough. It's OK.

0:09:13 > 0:09:19Next, another chance with a pheasant shoot where beaters drive the pheasants from the woods.

0:09:19 > 0:09:22So the wind's picking up now, which is going to help us, I think.

0:09:25 > 0:09:27Oh, can't believe it!

0:09:27 > 0:09:29That's a good one. That's all right.

0:09:29 > 0:09:30A good one.

0:09:30 > 0:09:32Yeah, and again.

0:09:34 > 0:09:38Come onto the bird. So find the bird with your gun and bring it up to you.

0:09:38 > 0:09:40Here we go.

0:09:40 > 0:09:43Ah, fantastic. Look at that one.

0:09:43 > 0:09:45There you go.

0:09:48 > 0:09:51OK, lower your gun and put another one in. There you go.

0:09:52 > 0:09:53Ah.

0:09:53 > 0:09:55Well done.

0:09:58 > 0:10:00This is my trademark again.

0:10:00 > 0:10:03Shot in the head.

0:10:03 > 0:10:07Always. You know I shoot very few pheasants, but always in the head.

0:10:07 > 0:10:10- Swap that one over. Slange.- Thank you, guys.

0:10:10 > 0:10:12Slange. Thank you.

0:10:13 > 0:10:17Long live the pheasant population, grouse and partridges.

0:10:17 > 0:10:19- Yes.- And sloe gin too.

0:10:27 > 0:10:28Next, a pheasant pithivier.

0:10:28 > 0:10:36Layers of buttery puff pastry filled with pheasant, mushrooms, chestnuts and herbs.

0:10:36 > 0:10:38Pithivier is a very extraordinary word.

0:10:38 > 0:10:40Very French of course.

0:10:40 > 0:10:44And the techniques come from France. It's basically a pasty, OK?

0:10:44 > 0:10:49For the filling, Raymond's using female pheasants which are more tender than the males.

0:10:49 > 0:10:54OK, tres bien. So now we are going to remove the legs.

0:10:54 > 0:10:55OK. Tres bien.

0:10:55 > 0:10:57Breast off. OK.

0:10:57 > 0:11:02- Legs and breasts removed, keep the carcass to one side.- Voila.

0:11:02 > 0:11:03That is for the sauce.

0:11:03 > 0:11:08Doesn't look very much at the moment, but it is for the sauce. Adam, please.

0:11:08 > 0:11:12So to me, pheasant, I find it quite dry, OK.

0:11:12 > 0:11:16So the way I'm going to cook it will remove all these problems.

0:11:16 > 0:11:19Raymond is going to comfit the legs in duck fat.

0:11:19 > 0:11:25A traditional French technique that ensures a flavoursome finish and succulent texture.

0:11:25 > 0:11:32First, the legs are cured in a mix of of garlic, bay, thyme, juniper, pepper and salt.

0:11:32 > 0:11:34That looks grey.

0:11:34 > 0:11:36It's not dirty. It's called fleur de sel

0:11:36 > 0:11:41and it's collected at the top of the sea and it's not been treated.

0:11:41 > 0:11:43It's absolutely au natural.

0:11:43 > 0:11:49After curing for six hours, the legs are ready to be cooked in duck fat for an hour and a half.

0:11:49 > 0:11:56So we're going to bring that to a fat temperature of 80 up to 90 degree, but never more than that.

0:12:01 > 0:12:03My grinder here.

0:12:05 > 0:12:08- The pheasant breasts are pan fried. - Voila.

0:12:08 > 0:12:14That beautiful browning process here where all the sugar of the pheasant are browning, caramelising.

0:12:14 > 0:12:16Wow. Perfect.

0:12:16 > 0:12:18I want it to relax a little bit.

0:12:18 > 0:12:20I was advised by a good friend, how to know

0:12:20 > 0:12:23if it is medium by touching or medium rare.

0:12:23 > 0:12:28How do you know? If you press that muscle here, it is rare.

0:12:28 > 0:12:33You should touch your thumb and first finger, it's medium rare.

0:12:33 > 0:12:35That is

0:12:35 > 0:12:37between medium rare and medium.

0:12:37 > 0:12:40That is medium. Medium well.

0:12:40 > 0:12:43And then here, because the muscle is going to tense up more,

0:12:43 > 0:12:45it's well done and you know what,

0:12:45 > 0:12:48I completely agree with that piece of advice.

0:12:48 > 0:12:51That's medium rare.

0:12:51 > 0:12:53Adam, could I have the next one please.

0:12:53 > 0:13:01The filling is finished with a mix of onions and mushrooms to which Raymond adds seasonal ingredients.

0:13:01 > 0:13:04We would crumble the chestnuts inside.

0:13:04 > 0:13:06Just crumble them. Put the blueberries.

0:13:06 > 0:13:08Dried blueberries.

0:13:08 > 0:13:10You can put whatever you want inside.

0:13:14 > 0:13:16Dan, please could I have the pheasant breast?

0:13:16 > 0:13:17- Ready, Chef.- Merci.

0:13:19 > 0:13:20Voila.

0:13:20 > 0:13:22Add the chopped breasts.

0:13:24 > 0:13:26Now I'm nearly, nearly finished.

0:13:26 > 0:13:28Then the comfit legs.

0:13:28 > 0:13:32A good comfit, the bone should leave and it's still moist inside.

0:13:32 > 0:13:37Just chop it up. Wonderful flavour inside your Pithivier.

0:13:37 > 0:13:40Ooh, lovely.

0:13:40 > 0:13:41Voila.

0:13:42 > 0:13:45Next, roll out all butter puff pastry

0:13:45 > 0:13:47until it's two millimetres thick.

0:13:47 > 0:13:50OK, so the thickness is very important, OK. Too thin,

0:13:50 > 0:13:55the meat is going to go through. Too thick, it's going to be concrete.

0:13:55 > 0:13:57So very heavy, huh?

0:13:58 > 0:14:03Cut into discs. You can use a large cutter or a saucer.

0:14:03 > 0:14:06Tres bien.

0:14:06 > 0:14:10- Voila.- Once cool, the filling is ready to go into the pastry.

0:14:10 > 0:14:12About 60 grams of each.

0:14:12 > 0:14:16Voila. And I press on it

0:14:16 > 0:14:17to get the shape.

0:14:19 > 0:14:22Stay here, you. Voila.

0:14:22 > 0:14:25That on the top here. Around your finger, use

0:14:25 > 0:14:31the shape of your finger to make sure that is moving the air away as well.

0:14:31 > 0:14:35And then I'm pressing both edges so they can stick.

0:14:35 > 0:14:39It's now crucial that the pastry is chilled before being cut.

0:14:41 > 0:14:45Because if I cut them now, you see now the pastry is soft.

0:14:45 > 0:14:50When you cut it you're going to compress those layers and there will be no rise.

0:14:50 > 0:14:53I want my Pithivier or pasty to rise.

0:14:53 > 0:14:57Adam, please put that in the deep freeze for five minutes.

0:15:00 > 0:15:01Tres bien.

0:15:01 > 0:15:05Once chilled, you can trim the edges.

0:15:05 > 0:15:06Voila.

0:15:08 > 0:15:12Next, a sauce made from the reserved pheasant carcass.

0:15:12 > 0:15:17I am about to show you a lovely little sauce you can make easy at home. OK?

0:15:17 > 0:15:19Using water.

0:15:19 > 0:15:21Maybe a little bit of alcohol.

0:15:21 > 0:15:24So with my carcass pheasant.

0:15:24 > 0:15:26After caramelisation I'm going to place it here.

0:15:28 > 0:15:32Add some roughly chopped onion and celery to the pan.

0:15:32 > 0:15:34Just blond caramelisation.

0:15:34 > 0:15:36Not too strong. Just blond. OK.

0:15:38 > 0:15:42You notice I don't add the mushroom at the same time as the onions. Why?

0:15:42 > 0:15:46If I add the mushroom now, the mushrooms are going to give their juices.

0:15:46 > 0:15:48That's defeating the object.

0:15:48 > 0:15:51Now, return the browned pheasant bones.

0:15:51 > 0:15:53Tres bien.

0:15:53 > 0:15:55And then add some Madeira.

0:15:55 > 0:15:58And now I'm going to add about only 100 gram.

0:15:58 > 0:16:01Being careful not to spill any on an open flame.

0:16:01 > 0:16:04I shouldn't have done that. That's not clever.

0:16:05 > 0:16:07That's less clever as well.

0:16:07 > 0:16:10May I tell you why? Because that's how you burn the meat on the top. OK?

0:16:12 > 0:16:13Some port.

0:16:13 > 0:16:16The same amount. 50-50.

0:16:16 > 0:16:18So you taste. Very important.

0:16:18 > 0:16:23Because you want most of the alcohol to go away, otherwise it's going to be very bitter.

0:16:23 > 0:16:31The sign of a bad sauce is when it's aggressive, bitter, acid, alcoholic.

0:16:32 > 0:16:34Now simmer for 20 minutes.

0:16:34 > 0:16:37When ready, strain the sauce and thicken with a little arrowroot.

0:16:37 > 0:16:41Voila. Voila. That's it. Perfect.

0:16:41 > 0:16:44Glaze the pushovers with egg yolk.

0:16:45 > 0:16:49If you want a bit of shine, you can put a bit of salt into your egg yolk.

0:16:49 > 0:16:53I don't know why. I've got to find that out, OK, and then I'll tell you.

0:16:53 > 0:16:54But if you know, let me know.

0:16:55 > 0:16:56Voila.

0:16:59 > 0:17:05The pithiviers go into a preheated fan oven at 200 degrees centigrade for 15 minutes.

0:17:05 > 0:17:07Adam, look as well.

0:17:16 > 0:17:18Voila. They're lovely.

0:17:20 > 0:17:27Serve with the sauce and decorate with some warmed walnuts, prunes and golden raisins.

0:17:33 > 0:17:35That Madeira goes very well.

0:17:35 > 0:17:36It's nice and sweet.

0:17:36 > 0:17:38So out of ten?

0:17:38 > 0:17:40- Eight and a half, Chef. - Eight and a half.

0:17:40 > 0:17:42- My god, I've got to try harder.- Nine.

0:17:43 > 0:17:44Lovely little James.

0:17:50 > 0:17:54Scotland's woodlands are famous for their wild mushrooms.

0:17:54 > 0:17:59Passionate foragers Raymond and Steve are visiting keen mushroom hunter Alan Murray.

0:18:01 > 0:18:06- Hello, Alan.- Raymond. How are you? You finally made it. Oh.

0:18:06 > 0:18:09- I told you I would.- I know, I know, but we've been counting the days.

0:18:09 > 0:18:11Oh, we're so happy to see you.

0:18:19 > 0:18:25This is a lovely perfectly formed Scottish girolle here, and I know you've never picked

0:18:25 > 0:18:30a girolle ever in your life, and I thought you were a mushroom man.

0:18:30 > 0:18:32Oh, my gosh.

0:18:32 > 0:18:37- Voila. What a perfectly beautifully formed girolle.- There we go.

0:18:37 > 0:18:39That smell of apricots and almonds.

0:18:39 > 0:18:40Lovely. Beautiful.

0:18:40 > 0:18:44Girolles grow all over Europe, but those found in Scotland

0:18:44 > 0:18:47are the most highly prized for their pungent aroma.

0:18:47 > 0:18:48So if we just go up here a bit.

0:18:48 > 0:18:52I think I know a spot where we'll get some more of these girolle.

0:18:52 > 0:18:54OK. I've got two little girolle here.

0:18:54 > 0:18:56Look at that, guys.

0:18:56 > 0:19:00That's lovely, guys. That must be the last of the baby girolle.

0:19:00 > 0:19:02Voila.

0:19:02 > 0:19:08They grow in mossy forested areas, appearing a few days after heavy rainfall.

0:19:08 > 0:19:10Here's some more, Raymond.

0:19:10 > 0:19:14Have you ever noticed... I find when there's gullies like this,

0:19:14 > 0:19:20they seem to be on the top as if they're sucking the moisture out of the water trenches up this way,

0:19:20 > 0:19:23so that they get the moisture but they're not swimming in it.

0:19:23 > 0:19:27I used to make a lot of money out of girolle. From the age of seven, I was

0:19:27 > 0:19:32a very rich young man because every wild mushroom I would sell it to market places.

0:19:32 > 0:19:38I would sell it to restaurants, and you know which is the best payer?

0:19:38 > 0:19:41- Well, it won't be the restaurants. - It is the restaurants.- No.- Of course.

0:19:41 > 0:19:45- Sell it to my place, that's what I'm saying.- OK, I will then.

0:19:45 > 0:19:47When I get lots, I will.

0:19:49 > 0:19:52- Brilliant, thank you very much, Alan...- Oh, my pleasure.

0:19:52 > 0:19:54..for introducing me in your neck of the woods.

0:19:54 > 0:19:57You'll be back. I know, I saw the look in your eyes. You'll be back.

0:19:57 > 0:20:00- I can see the sep season coming. - Yeah, yeah, yeah.

0:20:00 > 0:20:03- Steve?- Both of you will be back.

0:20:03 > 0:20:05- Definitely be back.- OK. - Right, shall we?

0:20:05 > 0:20:06OK, let's go.

0:20:12 > 0:20:18In the kitchen, the Scottish haul is supplemented by a few extra mushrooms.

0:20:18 > 0:20:20Tres bien, voila.

0:20:20 > 0:20:23Raymond's next dish is a simple mushroom fricassee.

0:20:25 > 0:20:27So we're going to cook a few of them.

0:20:27 > 0:20:30- Yes, please. - OK, you cook them, I cook them?

0:20:30 > 0:20:33- I'll cook them.- You cook them. - Steve cook them.

0:20:33 > 0:20:40Although any fresh mushroom will work in this recipe, Raymond is using four particular favourites.

0:20:40 > 0:20:47- They're lovely, yeah. - He has chanterelles, girolles, pied de moutan and trompette de l'amour.

0:20:47 > 0:20:51Trompette de l'amour, OK, always, well, you know

0:20:51 > 0:20:55that anyway, open them up because there is bits of forest inside.

0:20:55 > 0:20:57So open it up like that.

0:20:57 > 0:21:00OK. No tree inside. Now we're OK.

0:21:00 > 0:21:02Tres bien. Voila.

0:21:02 > 0:21:04Very gently with the finger.

0:21:04 > 0:21:06Don't break them. They're delicate.

0:21:06 > 0:21:11OK. A mistake people do often is to soak the mushrooms in water.

0:21:11 > 0:21:16Never leave them more than 10, 15 seconds in water otherwise they soak up. They're a sponge.

0:21:16 > 0:21:20Raymond adds a squeeze of lemon juice to the water.

0:21:20 > 0:21:22Again, more flavour. OK.

0:21:24 > 0:21:27And more, it will prevent the oxidisation.

0:21:27 > 0:21:29Discoloration of the mushroom.

0:21:29 > 0:21:32Raymond and Steve prepare the other ingredients.

0:21:32 > 0:21:37Finely diced tomato and chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon.

0:21:37 > 0:21:40I need your fingers, you know that. The business needs your fingers.

0:21:40 > 0:21:42You do.

0:21:42 > 0:21:46Perfect. Not too fine. Want a nice chew inside. That's all right.

0:21:46 > 0:21:50To start, melt a little butter in a small frying pan.

0:21:51 > 0:21:53The whole lot?

0:21:53 > 0:21:57Next, add some finely chopped shallot and some crushed garlic.

0:21:57 > 0:21:58Just throw it in.

0:22:00 > 0:22:03When I am in somebody else's home, I will probably be the one who

0:22:03 > 0:22:06appreciate it the most because I understand the effort.

0:22:06 > 0:22:09No browning, Steve. No browning.

0:22:11 > 0:22:14Voila. Just put them in. Not all.

0:22:14 > 0:22:16Just those. Voila.

0:22:16 > 0:22:17Tres bien. Those will cook together.

0:22:17 > 0:22:22The shallots softened, add all the mushrooms except the trompette de l'amour.

0:22:22 > 0:22:26You put those at the last moment because they cook for five seconds

0:22:26 > 0:22:30and they can discolour completely your fricassee. That's perfect.

0:22:30 > 0:22:32- Voila.- Some wine.

0:22:32 > 0:22:36Voila. That's it. Just to give...

0:22:36 > 0:22:39- ..a bit of acidity. - And a little water creates a jus.

0:22:39 > 0:22:42Tres bien. To make the nice jus.

0:22:42 > 0:22:48Add the chopped herbs, tomato, and the fricassee is ready to serve.

0:22:48 > 0:22:50That's lovely.

0:22:50 > 0:22:52Just put it in the middle. Right in the middle.

0:22:52 > 0:22:54Voila. It's so simple.

0:22:54 > 0:22:56Just pour it in. Brilliant.

0:23:05 > 0:23:09- Mm.- Simple and lovely.

0:23:09 > 0:23:11- That's beautiful.- Home. - Taste of the forest.

0:23:11 > 0:23:13- Forest on a plate.- Yeah.

0:23:13 > 0:23:15- Thank you very much. Cheers. - Pleasure.

0:23:15 > 0:23:18- And thank you for everything. Really thank you.- Pleasure. Thank you.

0:23:23 > 0:23:27For his final recipe, Raymond returns to a classic.

0:23:27 > 0:23:30A pigeon baked in a salt crust.

0:23:30 > 0:23:36I did this dish 25 years ago and it's still modern in its concept.

0:23:36 > 0:23:37It's still very much loved.

0:23:37 > 0:23:39That's what classic are all about.

0:23:43 > 0:23:48This is the old truffle pigeon or the wood pigeon. That one is special.

0:23:48 > 0:23:50It's a special one.

0:23:50 > 0:23:55Raymond is using a French farm-raised pigeon known as squab. You'll need one per person.

0:23:55 > 0:24:00No seasoning. No salt, because remember, we are going to put it into a salt crust.

0:24:00 > 0:24:01So no seasoning.

0:24:01 > 0:24:06The pigeons are seared in hot goose fat to brown the skin for extra flavour.

0:24:08 > 0:24:10Finish off, OK, the side.

0:24:10 > 0:24:12OK, tres bien.

0:24:13 > 0:24:15And then now we are going to do our salt crust.

0:24:15 > 0:24:17Although not eaten, the salt crust prevents

0:24:17 > 0:24:23small and lean game like pigeon from becoming dry and overcooked.

0:24:23 > 0:24:26Put one kilo of plain flour into a mixer.

0:24:26 > 0:24:32Add 600 grams of fine salt and nine egg whites.

0:24:32 > 0:24:35Enormous amount of salt. You don't eat it.

0:24:35 > 0:24:40It's really to seal the meat and get a very special flavour.

0:24:43 > 0:24:44Voila.

0:24:44 > 0:24:47I'm going to prepare it. Cut it into four.

0:24:48 > 0:24:49Voila.

0:24:49 > 0:24:55Chill the dough for 30 minutes before rolling to a thickness of five millimetres.

0:24:56 > 0:25:02So now I'm ready to wrap the squabs into the dough.

0:25:02 > 0:25:06To decorate the salt crust, Raymond cuts out some wings.

0:25:06 > 0:25:09Place it breast down.

0:25:10 > 0:25:12Bottoms up.

0:25:12 > 0:25:15OK. To help the sticking,

0:25:15 > 0:25:17that's the egg yolk.

0:25:17 > 0:25:21Not too much, otherwise if you put too much it will not stick, it will slide.

0:25:21 > 0:25:26So lift this side here, tres bien.

0:25:26 > 0:25:29And then lift. Put your breast.

0:25:29 > 0:25:32Voila.

0:25:32 > 0:25:36Pressing right so there is no air pocket whatsoever.

0:25:36 > 0:25:39Doesn't look very pretty at the moment, but it will.

0:25:39 > 0:25:42We are going to do the head.

0:25:42 > 0:25:45Pigeon without head is not good.

0:25:45 > 0:25:48Pinch the beak.

0:25:49 > 0:25:50For eyes, two cloves are perfect.

0:25:53 > 0:25:55This technique works without the need for decoration,

0:25:55 > 0:25:59- but for Raymond, the extra effort is worthwhile.- Voila.

0:25:59 > 0:26:03So all you have to do is finish it off with the egg yolk on it.

0:26:03 > 0:26:06All over. That's what is going to give it its wonderful colour.

0:26:06 > 0:26:08Don't chop his head off.

0:26:08 > 0:26:10Not yet. Later.

0:26:12 > 0:26:14The last finish

0:26:14 > 0:26:16that you do is salt.

0:26:16 > 0:26:22The salt crust pastry shell protects the meat from the heat creating an oven within an oven.

0:26:22 > 0:26:26In an oven, the temperature goes very high and the meat detract.

0:26:26 > 0:26:32Here, the heat go very, very slowly, permeating the meat quietly inside.

0:26:32 > 0:26:35Changing completely the texture and the flavour.

0:26:35 > 0:26:40The pigeons are cooked for 20 minutes at 220 degrees centigrade.

0:26:42 > 0:26:43Bye-bye.

0:26:45 > 0:26:47Can we have some fennel tops? Just the top of the fennel.

0:26:47 > 0:26:50To go with the pigeon, cabbage.

0:26:51 > 0:26:54I'm asking for cabbage. Look, they give me lettuce.

0:26:54 > 0:26:57It's amazing. Amazing!

0:26:57 > 0:27:01When the cabbage arrives, it's quartered and steamed.

0:27:03 > 0:27:05Raymond is also serving his favourite.

0:27:05 > 0:27:07The fricassee of wild mushrooms.

0:27:07 > 0:27:13So, of course, as a cook, anything wrapped into something you cannot see, cannot smell or touch.

0:27:13 > 0:27:18It's rather unnerving what's happening inside. Is it overcooked?

0:27:18 > 0:27:22Is it undercooked? And you've got all sorts of nightmares. Doubts.

0:27:24 > 0:27:27To serve, remove the pigeon from the crust.

0:27:27 > 0:27:29Yes, you guillotine it.

0:27:29 > 0:27:31Voila. Spoon.

0:27:31 > 0:27:33Like that.

0:27:33 > 0:27:37Well, come on, out, that's it. That's perfect. Tres bien.

0:27:37 > 0:27:42Slice the blade gently towards.

0:27:42 > 0:27:46Voila. Quite a nice medium, actually.

0:27:49 > 0:27:55I think that is one of the most beautiful food experience you may have.

0:27:55 > 0:27:58It's unctuous. Most melting quality.

0:27:58 > 0:28:00You must taste it once in your lifetime.

0:28:02 > 0:28:05Have you ever tasted squab before?

0:28:05 > 0:28:08- No.- Never. - I grew up with very dry pheasant.

0:28:08 > 0:28:10Poor you. Sorry.

0:28:11 > 0:28:13- How is it?- It's good.

0:28:13 > 0:28:16It's amazing how the salt crust has seasoned the breast so well.

0:28:16 > 0:28:23- It's seasoned perfectly. - See, for my mother, that would be too rare, but that's delicious.

0:28:23 > 0:28:26OK, tell your mother we can teach her a few tricks. Is it possible?

0:28:26 > 0:28:28Could you tell her, Chef?

0:28:28 > 0:28:30Of course I'll tell her. OK, thank you, mate.

0:28:30 > 0:28:32OK, good. Lovely.

0:28:32 > 0:28:34Thank you.

0:28:37 > 0:28:39Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd

0:28:39 > 0:28:40E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk