0:00:02 > 0:00:05Raymond Blanc is opening his kitchen for a journey of discovery.
0:00:05 > 0:00:07Cooking is about curiosity,
0:00:07 > 0:00:11and if I can inspire you to be curious, I'll be a very happy man.
0:00:11 > 0:00:15Divulging the secrets of his simplest...
0:00:15 > 0:00:16Perfectly cooked.
0:00:16 > 0:00:19- ..and most dazzling dishes. - Glorious food.
0:00:19 > 0:00:21Be inspired by his passion.
0:00:21 > 0:00:25Food is so much more than cooking and eating, it's about living life.
0:00:25 > 0:00:30- Share the secrets of his success. - The wonderful thing about having cooking secrets
0:00:30 > 0:00:32is the ability to share them with you.
0:00:38 > 0:00:42Tonight on Kitchen Secrets, Raymond shares his passion for puddings.
0:00:43 > 0:00:46Sweet and savoury, English and French,
0:00:46 > 0:00:48his favourites are filled with nostalgia
0:00:48 > 0:00:50and the flavours of childhood.
0:00:50 > 0:00:54Huge memories of a very special moment.
0:00:54 > 0:00:57From a fragrant family treat,
0:00:57 > 0:00:59creamy, vanilla-infused rice pudding...
0:00:59 > 0:01:03I love this dish because it's homely, it's yummy, it's delicious.
0:01:03 > 0:01:07..to a rich, savoury steak, kidney and oyster pudding.
0:01:07 > 0:01:09Oh, majestic.
0:01:09 > 0:01:14And Raymond reveals how some puddings bring back very special memories.
0:01:14 > 0:01:17I took that frying pan and it changed my life completely.
0:01:26 > 0:01:30In Raymond's kitchen, he's preparing the ingredients
0:01:30 > 0:01:32for his first recipe,
0:01:32 > 0:01:37a French classic and childhood favourite, riz au lait.
0:01:43 > 0:01:48This creamy vanilla rice pudding is hidden under a crunchy topping,
0:01:48 > 0:01:51complemented by a tangy, sweet berry compote.
0:01:52 > 0:01:53Well, rice pudding.
0:01:53 > 0:01:58It conjures up all sorts of wonderful childhood memories.
0:01:58 > 0:02:01I love this dish because it's homely, it's yummy,
0:02:01 > 0:02:05it's delicious and I think it's a relatively simple dish as well.
0:02:05 > 0:02:08But Raymond is not the only chef taken back
0:02:08 > 0:02:11to his childhood by this classic dessert.
0:02:11 > 0:02:16First is Benoit. He is one of the great patissiers in this country.
0:02:16 > 0:02:1815 years, we have battled.
0:02:18 > 0:02:21He claims that his mother makes the best riz au lait.
0:02:21 > 0:02:24I claim that Maman Blanc does the best riz au lait.
0:02:24 > 0:02:27Pardon. Since there is the battle of the riz au lait.
0:02:27 > 0:02:30OK. It must be, once and for all, concluded. Shall we?
0:02:30 > 0:02:32I know the winner already.
0:02:32 > 0:02:35THEY LAUGH
0:02:35 > 0:02:36- See you later.- See you later!
0:02:38 > 0:02:40With the gauntlet thrown down,
0:02:40 > 0:02:43the first thing Raymond needs to do is cook the rice.
0:02:43 > 0:02:47So first, what I want to do is to add sugar.
0:02:47 > 0:02:51Everything together. The rice.
0:02:51 > 0:02:57The milk. There is 1.7 litres of milk, whole milk.
0:02:57 > 0:03:01Of course you can do it with thin milk, OK, or whatever, but you can
0:03:01 > 0:03:07also do it with water, but it's not quite the same, so I use whole milk!
0:03:09 > 0:03:12This absorbs ten times its own weight.
0:03:12 > 0:03:16Imagine gorging yourself up with that wonderful milk.
0:03:16 > 0:03:20Fantastic. To create that fluffy, delicious experience.
0:03:20 > 0:03:22Raymond's method is simple.
0:03:22 > 0:03:26He just stirs the rice occasionally during cooking, but there is
0:03:26 > 0:03:31- a more time-consuming method going on in the other kitchen. - He stirs his completely,
0:03:31 > 0:03:36all the time he has to stand behind the stove for hours,
0:03:36 > 0:03:39whereas mine is slightly more simple.
0:03:39 > 0:03:44For his low-maintenance method, Raymond adds a tablespoon of vanilla puree
0:03:44 > 0:03:48to the milk, and leaves it to simmer gently for 30 minutes.
0:03:48 > 0:03:53OK, so just don't have to... Thank you very much for that.
0:03:53 > 0:03:55HE LAUGHS
0:03:55 > 0:03:57It's OK. We are going to warm it up.
0:03:57 > 0:03:59A little bit of butter.
0:03:59 > 0:04:02He dusts the buttered dish with sugar,
0:04:02 > 0:04:05which caramelises around the rice during cooking.
0:04:05 > 0:04:07It should be absolutely not starchy but creamy.
0:04:07 > 0:04:10So we'll see how Benoit comes out.
0:04:10 > 0:04:11HE LAUGHS
0:04:15 > 0:04:17After half an hour,
0:04:17 > 0:04:20the fluffy, milky rice is ready to go into the oven
0:04:20 > 0:04:23at 150 degrees.
0:04:24 > 0:04:29Voila. Tres bien. I'll just hope for the best!
0:04:32 > 0:04:35Another 30 minutes, and Raymond's riz au lait is ready.
0:04:37 > 0:04:42Et voila. Rice pudding Maman Blanc.
0:04:42 > 0:04:46What we're going to do is to do the brulee.
0:04:46 > 0:04:49I use a bit of sugar so to give it a lovely caramel,
0:04:49 > 0:04:51because that's what I love the most.
0:04:53 > 0:04:57Or you can do it like my mum would do with the iron.
0:04:57 > 0:05:01So appetising, eh? So gorgeous.
0:05:01 > 0:05:04You can see all these wonderful bubbles here.
0:05:09 > 0:05:11Voila. Champion Maman Blanc.
0:05:11 > 0:05:13A childhood favourite.
0:05:13 > 0:05:18Comforting creamy rice, topped with a sweet caramel crust,
0:05:18 > 0:05:20served with a tangy berry compote.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25IN TRANSLATION:
0:05:30 > 0:05:33- There you go.- That looks lovely, but does it taste as good?
0:05:33 > 0:05:37We'll see. If it's not as good as I'd like it to be,
0:05:37 > 0:05:40- it's because my mother didn't cook it, I did.- Exactly.- There we go.
0:05:40 > 0:05:43OK, shall we try it? The proof is in the pudding.
0:05:43 > 0:05:47- Rice pudding today. - Absolutely.- Go ahead.
0:05:47 > 0:05:49- Voici, les anglaises. - Well, let's see.
0:05:52 > 0:05:57- Benoit.- Please.- Tu es mon invite. You are my guest.- Oui.
0:05:57 > 0:05:59Mm, lovely.
0:05:59 > 0:06:02Take a little bit of...
0:06:02 > 0:06:04I think it's lovely as well.
0:06:04 > 0:06:06How much out of ten?
0:06:06 > 0:06:09I'm going to give you nine.
0:06:09 > 0:06:13I'll give you nine too, Benoit. OK?
0:06:13 > 0:06:18You'll have to come to my house one day and my mum will cook it for you.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20And this one will be ten out of ten.
0:06:20 > 0:06:21INAUDIBLE
0:06:25 > 0:06:27INAUDIBLE
0:06:31 > 0:06:32Cush, Adam!
0:06:43 > 0:06:47Raymond's next recipe is another French favourite, tarte Tatin.
0:06:47 > 0:06:50Sticky, caramelised apples, gently baked
0:06:50 > 0:06:53and upended onto buttery puff pastry.
0:06:56 > 0:07:00I'm going to bring another wonderful, HUGE French classic,
0:07:00 > 0:07:04which has been exported across the world and it is known as
0:07:04 > 0:07:05une tarte Tatin.
0:07:05 > 0:07:09First, Raymond prepares the caramel. He adds a dash of water,
0:07:09 > 0:07:13and 100 grams of caster sugar to a heat-proof baking dish.
0:07:13 > 0:07:16I've got the syrup at the moment. That's called a syrup.
0:07:16 > 0:07:19Then this could take about five, seven minutes roughly,
0:07:19 > 0:07:23according to the strength of the gas underneath.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26According to the moon. No, no, no, not the moon.
0:07:26 > 0:07:29Not today!
0:07:31 > 0:07:34The caramel is cooked until it turns the right colour.
0:07:34 > 0:07:36That's blond. It's sweet.
0:07:36 > 0:07:39What I want is to cook the caramel to a beautiful auburn.
0:07:39 > 0:07:43By cooking it, I bring a bit of acidity in my caramel.
0:07:43 > 0:07:47I remove some of the sugar. Little undertones of bitterness.
0:07:47 > 0:07:52Next, Raymond adds 60 grams of butter to make the caramel glossy and smooth.
0:07:52 > 0:07:55If it's melted, it's going to burn into it.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58If it's cold, it's going to stop the cooking
0:07:58 > 0:08:01and get emulsified with the caramel, and that's perfect.
0:08:01 > 0:08:05Look at that glorious, glorious caramel.
0:08:05 > 0:08:08While the caramel cools a little,
0:08:08 > 0:08:10Raymond prepares the main ingredient.
0:08:10 > 0:08:13And picking the right variety is key.
0:08:13 > 0:08:18When you start thinking of apples, imagine - you've got 2,000 varieties.
0:08:18 > 0:08:23So you've got a lot of choice. But actually, amongst all these apples,
0:08:23 > 0:08:30which are perfect for tarte Tatin, the best for me is Braeburn. And why?
0:08:30 > 0:08:34Because their flesh is beautiful and yellow and rich.
0:08:34 > 0:08:35You want that freshness.
0:08:38 > 0:08:42Raymond peels, cores and halves 12 Braeburn apples.
0:08:43 > 0:08:46We have this lovely caramel, which I've kept warm a little bit.
0:08:46 > 0:08:50Make sure it is warm. And all what I'll do,
0:08:50 > 0:08:54I become Raymond the Builder, OK, so just press...
0:08:54 > 0:08:56Voila. ..against each other.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59But imagine that thickness of apple
0:08:59 > 0:09:02and that apple experience you're going to have.
0:09:02 > 0:09:05It's not about "pretty". You've got to think, when it's cooked,
0:09:05 > 0:09:10it's got to be tight, otherwise your apple will collapse. It's easy. Don't ruffle it up.
0:09:10 > 0:09:15Press. You know when it's ready - when you press, they start to rise.
0:09:15 > 0:09:17They try to get out of the pan. I would as well!
0:09:17 > 0:09:21Raymond brushes the top of the apples with butter
0:09:21 > 0:09:27to create a silky glaze during cooking. The dish is then ready to go in the oven at 180 degrees.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31Not much work, really, apart from the peeling, so far.
0:09:31 > 0:09:33A bit of caramel. Simple.
0:09:39 > 0:09:41I didn't say "voila".
0:09:41 > 0:09:46After 30 minutes in the oven, the tarte is ready for the puff pastry
0:09:46 > 0:09:48which will form the base of the dessert.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51Raymond's is home-made, but ready-made will be fine.
0:09:51 > 0:09:57Make sure your puff pastry is frozen. That's a good tip.
0:09:57 > 0:10:02Place it frozen onto the apples and then it's very easy to work with.
0:10:02 > 0:10:06Thank you, Cush. They are frozen now and I want it firm.
0:10:06 > 0:10:10Cush, Adam!
0:10:10 > 0:10:13These servants these days, huh? They're never there.
0:10:15 > 0:10:18Tom, can you please put that in the blast freezer, please?
0:10:18 > 0:10:21On the freezer will do. Thank you very much.
0:10:21 > 0:10:26After a few minutes in the freezer, the buttery puff pastry is ready.
0:10:26 > 0:10:29Frozen. OK, I'm warming it up a little bit with my hands.
0:10:29 > 0:10:34Got very warm hands. I'm very lucky. Tres bien. That's it.
0:10:34 > 0:10:35Now I'm going to cut it.
0:10:39 > 0:10:45And I'm going to just simply wrap it up.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49Raymond tucks the pastry around the apples.
0:10:49 > 0:10:53Piercing it allows steam to escape, keeping the pastry crisp.
0:10:53 > 0:10:58That will take 40 minutes at the same temperature, 180 degrees.
0:10:58 > 0:11:02After 40 minutes in the oven, the tarte can be left to cool
0:11:02 > 0:11:05before it's turned upside down for serving.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09Ready to eat now. Absolument.
0:11:09 > 0:11:13I think for many Frenchmen, these desserts were present,
0:11:13 > 0:11:17which is what is really good about France!
0:11:29 > 0:11:30Hello, Christine.
0:11:30 > 0:11:32- Hello, chef.- Hello to you. Lovely.
0:11:32 > 0:11:36I've decided to invite you, OK, for a little bit of a break, OK?
0:11:36 > 0:11:38- Oh, thank you. - And to celebrate the tarte Tatin.
0:11:40 > 0:11:44So what do you think? Colour of the caramel, what does it tell you?
0:11:44 > 0:11:47It tells you how sweet the caramel is going to taste.
0:11:47 > 0:11:50If it's very, very dark, it can be quite bitter.
0:11:50 > 0:11:55- The apples are cooked through but have a nice shape. They're not falling everywhere.- Mm-hmm. So...
0:11:58 > 0:11:59So, marks out of ten?
0:11:59 > 0:12:02I'll have to give it a ten, Chef.
0:12:02 > 0:12:04THEY LAUGH
0:12:07 > 0:12:10Raymond's passion for puddings means he's always keen to add
0:12:10 > 0:12:12something new to his repertoire.
0:12:12 > 0:12:17Today, he's heading into Oxford to meet a local dessert expert.
0:12:17 > 0:12:21I'm going to meet Sophie Grigson, who will cook an English sweet pudding.
0:12:21 > 0:12:26She knows I love my puddings, so I expect to have a serious lovely treat.
0:12:28 > 0:12:32Raymond has been inspired by Sophie's late mother,
0:12:32 > 0:12:36renowned food writer and cook Jane Grigson, who influenced his early days as a chef.
0:12:36 > 0:12:42When I met Jane, this amazing woman who truly is passionate about her food,
0:12:42 > 0:12:45for me, as a young chef, she was an inspiration, OK.
0:12:45 > 0:12:49And her books really helped me to understand food and also to try
0:12:49 > 0:12:52to compose a sentence that everyone would understand.
0:12:52 > 0:12:55Today, it's Sophie's turn to teach Raymond something
0:12:55 > 0:12:58new about traditional English puddings.
0:12:58 > 0:13:01I'm going to make you one of the unhealthiest
0:13:01 > 0:13:04but most UTTERLY delicious puddings.
0:13:04 > 0:13:07I'm going to make a Sussex pond pudding.
0:13:07 > 0:13:09My mum used to make this pudding when I was little
0:13:09 > 0:13:12and so I've kind of grown up with it.
0:13:12 > 0:13:15This is one of Britain's oldest desserts.
0:13:15 > 0:13:19Its rich ingredients made it ideal for cold winter nights.
0:13:19 > 0:13:21I'm going to line this with a suet pastry
0:13:21 > 0:13:24and then in the middle, there will be a whole lemon,
0:13:24 > 0:13:28- in its entirety, not cut, just pierced here and there...- OK.
0:13:28 > 0:13:31..buried amongst sugar and butter.
0:13:31 > 0:13:35And then as they steam, that'll soften inside,
0:13:35 > 0:13:38and it forms a wonderful syrup, and so when you cut into it, it's like
0:13:38 > 0:13:43a pond of syrup comes oozing out and flavours the syrup with the lemon.
0:13:43 > 0:13:46- And the lemon...- Do you eat it? Well, if you want to.
0:13:46 > 0:13:50For an authentic pudding crust, Sophie uses real suet.
0:13:50 > 0:13:55Made from beef fat, it gives the pudding its rich, melting texture.
0:13:55 > 0:14:00But that's very unusual. I was trying to put my mind round this, you know.
0:14:00 > 0:14:03We've buried the lemon completely in the butter and the sugar.
0:14:03 > 0:14:05The buttery pudding must be
0:14:05 > 0:14:08wrapped tightly in a parchment-and-foil case.
0:14:10 > 0:14:12Oh, my God, I'm learning here.
0:14:14 > 0:14:18- You have to make it just underneath the rim.- The rim, voila.
0:14:18 > 0:14:21- I'll hold that. Another knot there. - Another not? Alors.
0:14:21 > 0:14:27Yep, just a simple half-hitch. Lovely. And that is ready to act as a little handle.
0:14:29 > 0:14:32Finally, the pudding is gently steamed for five hours.
0:14:32 > 0:14:37- Ooh, now down in the middle there. - Does it matter, I thought...?
0:14:37 > 0:14:39This is the bit I'd quite like you not to watch.
0:14:39 > 0:14:41- OK, I won't watch. - No, it's all right.
0:14:41 > 0:14:43- That looks lovely.- There we are!
0:14:43 > 0:14:47After its slow cooking, the lemon has infused the pudding
0:14:47 > 0:14:49with a bittersweet and zesty tang.
0:14:49 > 0:14:51- Lovely! - And here it is, oozing out.
0:14:51 > 0:14:56- Oh, look how beautiful it is. - Isn't that gorgeous?- Look at that.
0:14:58 > 0:15:00Absolutely delicious.
0:15:00 > 0:15:03Who would have thought of putting a lemon in a steamed pudding?
0:15:03 > 0:15:08It's delicious and I really will try this one at home. Definitely.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25Inspired by Sophie's version of her mother's classic,
0:15:25 > 0:15:29Raymond's next recipe is a much-loved English pudding.
0:15:29 > 0:15:33A savoury dish of succulent steak, kidney and oysters,
0:15:33 > 0:15:35encased in a rich suet crust.
0:15:38 > 0:15:42I did this dish about 38 years ago when I first came in Great Britain
0:15:42 > 0:15:44in the little pub where I started to cook.
0:15:44 > 0:15:48I took that frying pan and it changed my life completely.
0:15:48 > 0:15:49I discovered my passion.
0:15:49 > 0:15:56As I was leafing this book, I stopped on a recipe which said,
0:15:56 > 0:15:58"Steak, kidney and oyster pudding."
0:15:58 > 0:16:01And I started to laugh. These English!
0:16:01 > 0:16:05And then I started really to laugh about it.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09It's not possible to put such expensive ingredients
0:16:09 > 0:16:12in a pudding that you are going to steam for five hours!
0:16:12 > 0:16:13HE GASPS
0:16:13 > 0:16:17So I immediately gathered all the ingredients,
0:16:17 > 0:16:23following the recipe by the letter as well. Then I steamed it.
0:16:23 > 0:16:27A little smell, just a burst of a little smell
0:16:27 > 0:16:29and it was rather nice.
0:16:29 > 0:16:32And then after three hours,
0:16:32 > 0:16:36really a massive smell across the whole kitchen,
0:16:36 > 0:16:39beyond the kitchen - and it was divine!
0:16:40 > 0:16:43Versions of this dish date back to the 15th century.
0:16:43 > 0:16:45Today, it's perfect for special occasions
0:16:45 > 0:16:49as the pudding requires some costly ingredients.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52So we have a magnificent piece of rump here.
0:16:52 > 0:16:56I've got some gorgeous little oysters. They're English,
0:16:56 > 0:16:58native from Cornwall.
0:16:58 > 0:17:02The third component is kidneys.
0:17:02 > 0:17:06It's an incredible mix. And I'm going to start with the suet crust.
0:17:06 > 0:17:11First, Raymond combines 300 grams of self-raising flour
0:17:11 > 0:17:14with 150 grams of suet,
0:17:14 > 0:17:16a pinch of salt and 200 mls of water.
0:17:16 > 0:17:22And don't use your hands. It will be quite messy here. You have to use the spatula.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25It's not the most refined pastry.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30So turning, just pulling it together...
0:17:31 > 0:17:35..with your hand. Voila. Now we're OK. We're in business.
0:17:37 > 0:17:40That's the texture I'm looking for - quite soft.
0:17:40 > 0:17:43And there is a little trick here,
0:17:43 > 0:17:46a Victorian trick, not mine, which is lovely.
0:17:46 > 0:17:50I'm going to cut a quarter of the pastry for the lid,
0:17:50 > 0:17:53OK, which I'm going to keep.
0:17:53 > 0:17:55Voila. Tres bien.
0:17:55 > 0:18:00The remaining pastry forms a neat cone which lines the pudding basin.
0:18:00 > 0:18:03Next, Raymond dices the beef and kidneys.
0:18:03 > 0:18:05In about one-inch cubes, roughly.
0:18:05 > 0:18:08He coats the meat with two tablespoons of flour
0:18:08 > 0:18:14to help the juices thicken during cooking, then prepares the last luxury ingredient.
0:18:14 > 0:18:18I'm rubbish at opening oysters, so I'm doing my best at the moment.
0:18:26 > 0:18:28That's rather lovely.
0:18:28 > 0:18:30And now what we are going to do is do the sauce.
0:18:30 > 0:18:34Next, Raymond boils 200 mls of red wine.
0:18:34 > 0:18:38A good little trick as well, to fasten the speed of the reduction,
0:18:38 > 0:18:41heat the pan before, very, very hot.
0:18:41 > 0:18:44He adds this to 200 mls of chicken stock.
0:18:44 > 0:18:47Voila. And that is going to be the base
0:18:47 > 0:18:50which is going to make the gravy for the pan.
0:18:50 > 0:18:53So now, all we need to do is to fill it up.
0:18:53 > 0:18:58To the meat, Raymond adds a chopped onion, 180 grams of mushrooms and a pinch of thyme
0:18:58 > 0:19:02- to create another layer of flavour during cooking.- Look at that.
0:19:03 > 0:19:06Tightly packed. More oysters.
0:19:09 > 0:19:14That's perfect. Now, we are going to add the jus.
0:19:14 > 0:19:17It will sink in, rather then go outside of it.
0:19:17 > 0:19:21Raymond then seals the pudding underneath the suet pastry lid.
0:19:21 > 0:19:25A quick brushing on the outside to help the sticking.
0:19:25 > 0:19:31He tucks in the edges and covers the pudding in aluminium foil.
0:19:32 > 0:19:37And tighten it up. It's vacuumed, so to speak, completely sealed.
0:19:37 > 0:19:39It's now ready to be steamed.
0:19:41 > 0:19:46Bring the water to simmering point. The water is reaching basically half.
0:19:46 > 0:19:51That will take exactly five hours long to simmer.
0:19:56 > 0:19:59You take your hand...
0:20:00 > 0:20:05I can feel the sense of ownership from Adam here, about his country.
0:20:05 > 0:20:06Ooh la-la, Adam!
0:20:10 > 0:20:12Oh, majestic.
0:20:12 > 0:20:14After steaming for five hours,
0:20:14 > 0:20:18the tender, meltingly-soft meat and rich red wine gravy is ready,
0:20:18 > 0:20:22all held inside its crisp, golden suet crust.
0:20:23 > 0:20:26- A hearty English classic. - Doesn't look too good to look at.
0:20:26 > 0:20:28What do you mean? You don't like this?
0:20:28 > 0:20:34- Yeah, I love it, but it's not the most attractive.- No, smell it.
0:20:34 > 0:20:36- Have you tasted it?- No. - Shall we?- Yeah.
0:20:38 > 0:20:39So, Adam, what do you think?
0:20:39 > 0:20:45It's lovely. Really good. I love the pastry, they way it soaks up all the juices. It's my favourite.
0:20:45 > 0:20:48Adam loves his food to be a little bit on the rich side, I would say,
0:20:48 > 0:20:53that's why I'm going to baptise this dish "Adam's dish", for you, Adam.
0:20:53 > 0:20:55- Thank you chef.- OK?
0:21:01 > 0:21:05For Raymond, creating the perfect pudding experience
0:21:05 > 0:21:08means finding the perfect dessert wine.
0:21:08 > 0:21:10He takes great care in sourcing,
0:21:10 > 0:21:13and has invited wine writer Jonathan Ray
0:21:13 > 0:21:15to help him match his latest desserts.
0:21:15 > 0:21:19You want some wines that are completely different to complement,
0:21:19 > 0:21:22and you want some wines that are identical to the dish.
0:21:22 > 0:21:25I think that's the key of food-and-wine-matching.
0:21:25 > 0:21:30That one is quite rich and creamy, OK, so which one would go?
0:21:30 > 0:21:34Would you put a drier wine with that?
0:21:34 > 0:21:37Well, this one... We're not going to know till we try,
0:21:37 > 0:21:39but my instinct is...
0:21:39 > 0:21:43This is quite a rich Sauternes-style from Australia.
0:21:43 > 0:21:45There is a sort of creamy flavour to it.
0:21:45 > 0:21:50- Let's just see what this one is like.- OK, let's try it. - Let's have a look.
0:21:50 > 0:21:52- Look at that! - Oh, that is fantastic.
0:21:52 > 0:21:56Yeah, that's lovely. You need a wine which is not cloying,
0:21:56 > 0:22:02if you have a wine which is over-sweet with that. You want a bit of freshness. Some fresh notes.
0:22:02 > 0:22:05I think that matches pretty well, you know?
0:22:05 > 0:22:09Sauternes is a typical wine to have with creamy desserts,
0:22:09 > 0:22:12as its butteriness complements the cream.
0:22:12 > 0:22:14Next on the menu, a rich chocolate tart.
0:22:14 > 0:22:19I think it is difficult to get the right thing with chocolate. You don't want a Sauternes,
0:22:19 > 0:22:23- it just won't work. Try this. - Oh, that's amazing.
0:22:23 > 0:22:27So yes, this is from Central Valley, California, a Black Muscat.
0:22:27 > 0:22:31Oh, that's so grapey, isn't it? It's great.
0:22:31 > 0:22:36All these little things which are happening everywhere. It's lovely!
0:22:36 > 0:22:39Chocolate works well with Black Muscat, as the acidity
0:22:39 > 0:22:43of the wine creates clean flavours, cutting through the sweetness of the pudding.
0:22:43 > 0:22:47- Perfect with chocolate. - A great experience with chocolate.
0:22:51 > 0:22:54To go with a tangy dessert like Raymond's sweet ravioli,
0:22:54 > 0:22:58fruity wines like Tokaji are a good choice.
0:22:58 > 0:23:00But Johnny has something more unusual to try.
0:23:00 > 0:23:05What I've got here, which I think will go well, is an Inniskillin ice wine from Canada.
0:23:05 > 0:23:09This is where the grape freezes on the vine before it can be picked,
0:23:09 > 0:23:11so they're like little bullets, but I think it is
0:23:11 > 0:23:15quite tropical, so I just thought this would match really well.
0:23:15 > 0:23:18- It's got hints of guava and mango and so on.- Oh! Oh! That's it.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20That is absolutely it.
0:23:20 > 0:23:25They're so similar, they're such similar flavours. Lovely.
0:23:25 > 0:23:29Oh, come on guys. Voila. That's perfect. That's good. Yeah.
0:23:29 > 0:23:32That's perfect. Give me that.
0:23:32 > 0:23:36- OK. Cold, cold, cold. Cold, cold, eh?- Yeah.
0:23:36 > 0:23:40- It was very cold, eh?- Yep.
0:23:47 > 0:23:49For Raymond's final dish,
0:23:49 > 0:23:52a daring French twist on a time-honoured British classic.
0:23:52 > 0:23:54Deconstructed red fruit crumble
0:23:54 > 0:23:57laced with a caramel and Kirsch syrup.
0:23:59 > 0:24:01Confident he can improve on tradition,
0:24:01 > 0:24:03he's giving it his own special touch.
0:24:03 > 0:24:07I'm going to touch a British classic, actually, which,
0:24:07 > 0:24:11interestingly enough, the French have just discovered.
0:24:11 > 0:24:14Having said that, I'm going to slightly change the dessert.
0:24:14 > 0:24:20Normally, the rest of the world would actually put the crumble onto the fruit.
0:24:20 > 0:24:22That's what I don't like!
0:24:22 > 0:24:26I want the crunch and I don't want the gooey part, OK, so I've found
0:24:26 > 0:24:30a solution and it's to put the crumble raw and pre-cook it before.
0:24:30 > 0:24:33I can tell you, it crumbles.
0:24:33 > 0:24:36It really crumbles and rumbles and crumbles.
0:24:37 > 0:24:41First, Raymond lightly pulses the crumble ingredients into a fine powder.
0:24:41 > 0:24:46Using the processor keeps the butter cool, creating a sandy texture.
0:24:46 > 0:24:50In order to get a mega crumble, a crumble experience,
0:24:50 > 0:24:53I am going to do two things.
0:24:53 > 0:24:58I'm going to put all this crumble into a bowl.
0:24:58 > 0:25:01I'm going to compress it together...
0:25:01 > 0:25:03Tres bien.
0:25:04 > 0:25:08..and then after, I'm going to freeze it,
0:25:08 > 0:25:11to create the most fantastic crumble.
0:25:11 > 0:25:14Voila. Adam, please. Can you freeze this, please?
0:25:14 > 0:25:16Yes, chef, yes.
0:25:16 > 0:25:19Adam, without you, what should I be?
0:25:19 > 0:25:22INAUDIBLE
0:25:22 > 0:25:27After one hour, the crumble mix is ready to come out of the freezer.
0:25:27 > 0:25:30Tres bien. Merci beaucoup.
0:25:30 > 0:25:35So we've got the crumble here, which is effectively compressed and frozen
0:25:35 > 0:25:39and you break it in pieces more or less the same.
0:25:39 > 0:25:42The chunky crumble then goes back into the processor.
0:25:45 > 0:25:48Me and my... Ah, voila.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55The mixture is spread out to a thickness of half a centimetre.
0:25:55 > 0:25:59This ensures the crumble keeps its crunchy texture during cooking.
0:25:59 > 0:26:04It then goes back into the oven at 190 degrees for ten minutes.
0:26:04 > 0:26:08It's not pretty, but you wait, when you taste it.
0:26:08 > 0:26:11So we've got our lovely red fruits here but I'm going to do
0:26:11 > 0:26:16something very, very simple. But again, there's a little secret here.
0:26:16 > 0:26:18It's very small, but it is a secret,
0:26:18 > 0:26:22and really makes the dish so different between stewed fruit,
0:26:22 > 0:26:27which has got a little bit more richness, depth of flavour.
0:26:27 > 0:26:29And the way I do it is to do a blond caramel.
0:26:29 > 0:26:33Raymond's innovative take on a British favourite doesn't stop at the crumble.
0:26:33 > 0:26:39Rather than stewing the fruits, he's macerating them in lemon and sugar before caramelising them.
0:26:39 > 0:26:43For the caramel, he begins with 30 grams of caster sugar.
0:26:43 > 0:26:47So what I'm going to add... Of course, we have forgotten something, the butter.
0:26:47 > 0:26:52Could we have the butter, please, Adam? How could you have forgotten the butter?
0:26:52 > 0:26:53OK, now we are perfect.
0:26:53 > 0:26:57We have the butter now. Voila. Thank you very much.
0:26:57 > 0:27:01Next, Raymond pours the fruit into the caramel,
0:27:01 > 0:27:03and adds a good splash of Kirsch.
0:27:03 > 0:27:07One for the pot, all the time. Tres bien.
0:27:07 > 0:27:11Then the baked crumble topping is briefly removed from the oven.
0:27:11 > 0:27:15And what we're going to do is to, actually, while it's hot...
0:27:16 > 0:27:18..cut it.
0:27:18 > 0:27:20He cuts the crumble into circles.
0:27:20 > 0:27:23That wonderfully biscuity texture.
0:27:24 > 0:27:28- Before it goes back in the oven to finish cooking all the way through. - Three minutes.
0:27:38 > 0:27:43The really beautiful, golden brown.
0:27:48 > 0:27:52Lovely, it's buttery, it's crunchy, it's melting.
0:27:52 > 0:27:55Our crumble is ready to be put together.
0:27:55 > 0:27:57Voila. So then, what you can do if you want to...
0:27:57 > 0:28:01The crumble is lightly dusted with icing sugar
0:28:01 > 0:28:03and laid onto the sweet fruit base.
0:28:06 > 0:28:11Raymond tops it off with a quenelle of home-made raspberry sorbet.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17Le crumble a la francaise.
0:28:17 > 0:28:19- Mike.- Hiya, chef.
0:28:19 > 0:28:23Mike is Welsh, OK. He likes his rugby and he likes his strawberries.
0:28:23 > 0:28:25Come on, Mike, come and taste that.
0:28:31 > 0:28:33It's very light.
0:28:34 > 0:28:37It's not like a lot of crumbles which is quite heavy.
0:28:37 > 0:28:40Do you do it that way? How is your mum doing it?
0:28:40 > 0:28:45At home, we'd cook the fruit through the crumble. This way, it's lighter
0:28:45 > 0:28:49and the texture is great as well, which is lovely.
0:28:49 > 0:28:50What out of ten?
0:28:50 > 0:28:52I'd say a good nine. Nine out of ten.
0:28:52 > 0:28:56- Thank you very much indeed.- Thank you, chef.- Thank you. Bye, Mike.
0:28:56 > 0:28:58For recipe details, please go to...
0:29:04 > 0:29:07Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:29:07 > 0:29:10E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk