0:00:04 > 0:00:07A little bit of what you fancy does you good.
0:00:07 > 0:00:11And that's precisely what I think about taking off on a long weekend.
0:00:11 > 0:00:14Not too far away, not obvious like Paris or Rome.
0:00:16 > 0:00:19I'll dive into the culture, take in some history,
0:00:19 > 0:00:22but food will always be key.
0:00:27 > 0:00:31So, if you like chocolatey... I mean really chocolatey cakes,
0:00:31 > 0:00:34or apple strudels straight from the oven.
0:00:34 > 0:00:38Or a really delicious dish called tafelspitz...
0:00:38 > 0:00:41it's a sort of upmarket boiled beef and carrots.
0:00:42 > 0:00:45Or you just like walking around fantastic buildings
0:00:45 > 0:00:47and seeing an exhibition or two...
0:00:47 > 0:00:51well, this could be right up your street.
0:00:51 > 0:00:53# Hey, Rick
0:00:53 > 0:00:56# Where we going this weekend? #
0:00:56 > 0:00:57Vienna.
0:00:59 > 0:01:02# Are we flying a few hours away?
0:01:02 > 0:01:05# For some delicious food they say
0:01:06 > 0:01:10# So, Rick, make the booking and let's get cooking
0:01:10 > 0:01:14# And get those taste buds going this weekend. #
0:01:26 > 0:01:28I've only been out of the airport for about half an hour,
0:01:28 > 0:01:30just entering the city.
0:01:30 > 0:01:32The first thing I'm really looking forward to...
0:01:32 > 0:01:35Because I saw a big ad in the airport for a Wiener schnitzel.
0:01:35 > 0:01:38I've been travelling all day. I'm hungry.
0:01:38 > 0:01:40Really looking forward to that.
0:01:40 > 0:01:42And some Austrian beer to go with it.
0:01:42 > 0:01:45Or maybe a glass of their excellent white wine.
0:01:45 > 0:01:47But during my time here,
0:01:47 > 0:01:53what I really want to do is go to a concert hall and listen to a waltz.
0:01:53 > 0:01:55SO looking forward to that.
0:01:55 > 0:01:56And finally,
0:01:56 > 0:02:01what I would really like to do is just sit in a cafe somewhere.
0:02:01 > 0:02:04Just take on board that cafe culture.
0:02:04 > 0:02:05Just order one coffee,
0:02:05 > 0:02:09try not to upset the waiter and just read the paper all morning.
0:02:09 > 0:02:11Some chance!
0:02:16 > 0:02:19This is my base for a long weekend.
0:02:24 > 0:02:25Nice bar.
0:02:28 > 0:02:30I think this is what they're doing in Europe.
0:02:30 > 0:02:34They're taking your average budget-style hotel that we all know
0:02:34 > 0:02:36and making it more funky.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40Slightly arty, no-frills, or wardrobes.
0:02:40 > 0:02:42Not a sign of a Corby 500.
0:02:42 > 0:02:46No towels posing as elephants or swans, thank you.
0:02:48 > 0:02:50Ah.
0:02:50 > 0:02:51That's nice.
0:02:51 > 0:02:53Got a little log fire going for me.
0:02:53 > 0:02:55HE CHUCKLES
0:02:55 > 0:02:57Ah.
0:02:57 > 0:02:58Ah. Look at that.
0:03:00 > 0:03:01Hello, Vienna.
0:03:07 > 0:03:10How to see Vienna?
0:03:10 > 0:03:12Well, you HAVE to see Vienna.
0:03:14 > 0:03:18Maybe in one of these fine landaus, which would be nice.
0:03:26 > 0:03:32Or the crew van, driven by our trusty Austrian fixer, Roland.
0:03:36 > 0:03:39Now, if in another life, I'd been born a mouse
0:03:39 > 0:03:42living in the biggest and most expensive wedding cake
0:03:42 > 0:03:46that's ever been made, then I think I should feel quite at home here.
0:03:51 > 0:03:55For lovers of architecture, this is the grande bouffe.
0:03:57 > 0:04:01To build palaces like this you need lots of cash.
0:04:01 > 0:04:04From preferably a huge empire that would stretch over
0:04:04 > 0:04:06quite a lot of central Europe.
0:04:06 > 0:04:11Yes, and that means surely lots of taxes to pay for Doric columns
0:04:11 > 0:04:13and heroic figures on horseback.
0:04:15 > 0:04:18But...I like the sausage stands.
0:04:18 > 0:04:23I love bratwurst sausages, and especially the mustard -
0:04:23 > 0:04:24the senf.
0:04:26 > 0:04:30I'm not that overexcited to see the not-so-blue Danube,
0:04:30 > 0:04:32but I couldn't help wondering whether a trip
0:04:32 > 0:04:36from the Black Forest, its source, to the Black Sea,
0:04:36 > 0:04:38going through ten countries or so,
0:04:38 > 0:04:42would be inspiring in a culinary sort of sense.
0:04:42 > 0:04:46Note in the margin - "Might make a good barge series."
0:04:48 > 0:04:53Of course, my Vienna has to pay homage to that classic film noir
0:04:53 > 0:04:54The Third Man.
0:04:54 > 0:04:57The Ferris wheel at the Prater Amusement Park.
0:04:59 > 0:05:01Or the amazing sewers that
0:05:01 > 0:05:06so much fascinated the writer Graham Greene, my hero.
0:05:17 > 0:05:21I love this little statue of Johann Strauss, it's...
0:05:21 > 0:05:24Actually, Vienna's quite a compact city, the centre of it is.
0:05:24 > 0:05:27Whenever you're walking you seem to see this in the distance somewhere.
0:05:27 > 0:05:30See the gold leaf and it just stands out.
0:05:30 > 0:05:33I don't know if it's any great sort of artistic shakes,
0:05:33 > 0:05:35but it really means a lot to me.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39Because if you look at these wraiths around, or nymphets,
0:05:39 > 0:05:41or one of those things. I'm not quite sure which...
0:05:41 > 0:05:42It's about the Danube.
0:05:42 > 0:05:44It's about the currents in the Danube.
0:05:44 > 0:05:49And these beautiful girls that sort of swim like mermaids in the Danube.
0:05:49 > 0:05:54And to me, the Blue Danube is like a full restaurant.
0:05:54 > 0:05:58It's like full of joy, full of movement, full of activity.
0:05:58 > 0:06:01And that's why I like it so much. I've always liked it.
0:06:01 > 0:06:04I used to play the Blue Danube in my discos
0:06:04 > 0:06:07and show pictures of sort of scenes like this
0:06:07 > 0:06:09because I loved it so much.
0:06:18 > 0:06:19I'm going to have lunch,
0:06:19 > 0:06:23Vienna's most famous dish, Wiener schnitzel,
0:06:23 > 0:06:25with Martina Hohenlohe.
0:06:25 > 0:06:29She's a food writer and a member of Austrian nobility.
0:06:29 > 0:06:33Well, they no longer have special privileges.
0:06:33 > 0:06:36These were done away with after the First World War,
0:06:36 > 0:06:39but once an aristo, always an aristo.
0:06:42 > 0:06:47Now, this is a proper lesson in how to make the best schnitzel,
0:06:47 > 0:06:51through the know-how of the executive chef here, Rupert Schnait.
0:06:53 > 0:06:57First, Rupert cuts each slice from a loin of veal.
0:06:57 > 0:07:02They also love it made from pork, but this is veal.
0:07:02 > 0:07:08Next, Rupert's assistant gives the escalope a bit of a bashing.
0:07:08 > 0:07:10Using sensibly thick plastic.
0:07:11 > 0:07:15Now, the flattened escalope goes into the flour.
0:07:16 > 0:07:21Next, the egg, making sure it's all coated.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25And then, oven-dried breadcrumbs.
0:07:25 > 0:07:30And now - this is so important - hot, clarified butter.
0:07:32 > 0:07:37I'm told by Rupert that the secret of a good schnitzel is getting
0:07:37 > 0:07:41the air between the meat and the crispy egg-and-bread-crumb coating.
0:07:41 > 0:07:43Not too much though.
0:07:43 > 0:07:45This is how it should be.
0:07:48 > 0:07:49Mm. That's a nice smell.
0:07:51 > 0:07:56'Golden, slightly puffed up and irresistible.
0:07:56 > 0:08:00'All they need is just a sprinkling of lemon juice.'
0:08:02 > 0:08:03Oh.
0:08:03 > 0:08:05That's so good.
0:08:05 > 0:08:07- It's lovely, isn't it?- Yeah.
0:08:07 > 0:08:09I could be very full of superlatives,
0:08:09 > 0:08:12but it is just exactly how it should be.
0:08:12 > 0:08:14We are kind of proud of our schnitzel.
0:08:14 > 0:08:17But you know, actually, we stole it.
0:08:17 > 0:08:18- Really?- It's not ours.
0:08:18 > 0:08:20It came from Italy.
0:08:20 > 0:08:22It's called cotoletta alla milanese there.
0:08:22 > 0:08:27And the Emperor, Franz Joseph, was very much into food
0:08:27 > 0:08:30and he sent his field marshal, Radetzky, to Italy,
0:08:30 > 0:08:34to Lombardia, to report about the situation there.
0:08:34 > 0:08:37And he did and he also brought back the recipe of
0:08:37 > 0:08:40this lovely piece of meat, cotoletta alla milanese,
0:08:40 > 0:08:43and that's how the schnitzel came to Vienna.
0:08:43 > 0:08:44I love that.
0:08:44 > 0:08:47I love food and history related.
0:08:47 > 0:08:50Because I think food is so important in history and then...
0:08:50 > 0:08:53- Absolutely, it's our culture, you know.- It is. It is.
0:08:53 > 0:08:55There's a big fuss about the schnitzel, you know.
0:08:55 > 0:08:58Austrians really, they are talking so much about
0:08:58 > 0:09:00which piece of meat to take,
0:09:00 > 0:09:02how to make it in the deep fryer, in the pan,
0:09:02 > 0:09:07with oil, or with lard, or with clarified butter.
0:09:07 > 0:09:09So, there's a big discussion.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12It's a very emotional piece of meat.
0:09:12 > 0:09:14I have to say.
0:09:14 > 0:09:16As a chef, I love dishes like this.
0:09:16 > 0:09:18Because I think there's as much skill
0:09:18 > 0:09:20- in producing something like this well.- Absolutely.
0:09:20 > 0:09:22Do you like this sort of food?
0:09:22 > 0:09:25Or do you like fussy, you know, new-cheffy dishes?
0:09:25 > 0:09:27I like new-cheffy dishes, I like avant-garde,
0:09:27 > 0:09:29but in between I need a schnitzel.
0:09:29 > 0:09:31Yeah, I really have to say that.
0:09:31 > 0:09:34To clean my mind, to clear my taste, my palate.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37It's... Sometimes you just need some comfort food, I think.
0:09:37 > 0:09:39- Right.- Right, so.- Tuck in.
0:09:39 > 0:09:42And also, I tell you what I really like is this salad.
0:09:42 > 0:09:43It's good.
0:09:47 > 0:09:50I so enjoyed talking to Martina Hohenlohe.
0:09:50 > 0:09:52And as she left, she gave me a cookery book
0:09:52 > 0:09:55of classic Viennese recipes.
0:09:55 > 0:09:58And this is a herring and potato salad from it.
0:09:58 > 0:10:01It's a salad that you find everywhere in Vienna.
0:10:05 > 0:10:07So, it's important to have waxy potatoes.
0:10:07 > 0:10:10Things like Jersey Royal, funnily enough, which these are.
0:10:10 > 0:10:12And actually it's a bit of a bore,
0:10:12 > 0:10:15but it's much better as the Austrians do...
0:10:15 > 0:10:17to boil them in their skins.
0:10:17 > 0:10:19And then take the skins off afterwards.
0:10:19 > 0:10:23Because then you get a lot more flavour, both from the peel,
0:10:23 > 0:10:26but also the peel holds the flavour in.
0:10:26 > 0:10:27OK, there we go.
0:10:27 > 0:10:29That looks very nice already.
0:10:29 > 0:10:31And now for the pickled herrings.
0:10:32 > 0:10:35At the end of the carnival season in November,
0:10:35 > 0:10:37they traditionally bring out the herrings.
0:10:37 > 0:10:41And maybe because Austria hasn't got a coastline,
0:10:41 > 0:10:44that's perhaps why they appreciate them all the more.
0:10:46 > 0:10:49Now, some more sharpness with some gherkins.
0:10:49 > 0:10:50Slice those up.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55And then some more piquancy with capers.
0:10:55 > 0:10:59The thing about this salad is, it's a mixture of bland things
0:10:59 > 0:11:01like potato and like these cannellini beans
0:11:01 > 0:11:02that I'm putting in,
0:11:02 > 0:11:06which are offset by the capers and the gherkins.
0:11:06 > 0:11:09Now then, apple for sweetness.
0:11:09 > 0:11:11And a little bit more astringency.
0:11:11 > 0:11:13There we go. And now some very finely chopped onions.
0:11:13 > 0:11:16Very important to be very finely chopped.
0:11:17 > 0:11:19Now, the remainder of the ingredients.
0:11:19 > 0:11:23Well, this is a balancing act of flavours and textures.
0:11:26 > 0:11:29Anchovies for that salty savouriness.
0:11:30 > 0:11:31Mayonnaise.
0:11:33 > 0:11:34Sour cream.
0:11:35 > 0:11:38And a dollop of senf - German mustard.
0:11:41 > 0:11:45And now an enormously important ingredient.
0:11:45 > 0:11:47Horseradish.
0:11:47 > 0:11:51And this is fresh horseradish which you can get anywhere in Venice...
0:11:51 > 0:11:53Venice? What's my problem?
0:11:53 > 0:11:57I'm going to too many cities.
0:11:57 > 0:11:59So, plenty of horseradish here.
0:11:59 > 0:12:01And it's a really hot in the root form.
0:12:01 > 0:12:04I can sort of feel it's going up my nose.
0:12:04 > 0:12:06Now, just a little bit of cider vinegar.
0:12:06 > 0:12:10And it very important in Vienna to use cider vinegar.
0:12:10 > 0:12:12They love their apples.
0:12:12 > 0:12:14And that includes the vinegar, as well.
0:12:14 > 0:12:18Finally, some salt. A judicious amount.
0:12:18 > 0:12:20Some freshly-ground black pepper.
0:12:21 > 0:12:2320 turns of the peppermill.
0:12:25 > 0:12:27That's the way I always measure it.
0:12:28 > 0:12:30Stir a bit more.
0:12:30 > 0:12:32And now put that on a nice oval plate.
0:12:32 > 0:12:35I always think salads like this look better on an oval.
0:12:35 > 0:12:37I don't know why.
0:12:37 > 0:12:40Now, I'm just going to finish with some lovely slices of egg.
0:12:40 > 0:12:41And plenty of dill.
0:12:41 > 0:12:44That is a lovely, lovely salad.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48And I really think herrings in that salad are perfection.
0:13:06 > 0:13:10I have to say, I really like continental breakfasts.
0:13:10 > 0:13:13Not everyone's cup of tea, I know.
0:13:13 > 0:13:15I like their hams.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18And I like the slightly plasticky cheese.
0:13:18 > 0:13:20Good with tomato and boiled egg.
0:13:21 > 0:13:24I can never find the teaspoons or the butter.
0:13:24 > 0:13:25Never.
0:13:25 > 0:13:29And mostly I can't work the coffee machine.
0:13:29 > 0:13:32This one's OK because it's a model I'm familiar with.
0:13:32 > 0:13:35This is a businessperson's hotel.
0:13:35 > 0:13:39It's less than 100 euros a night, bang in the centre,
0:13:39 > 0:13:42late-night bar - not that we ever used that.
0:13:42 > 0:13:44Oh, no!
0:13:44 > 0:13:46And it's friendly.
0:13:46 > 0:13:52# Love is all that I can give to you. #
0:13:52 > 0:13:55And music at breakfast thrown in by one of the waitresses,
0:13:55 > 0:13:57desperate to be a singer.
0:13:57 > 0:13:58Her name's Mona.
0:13:58 > 0:14:01A brave girl, I think.
0:14:01 > 0:14:02A difficult audience.
0:14:02 > 0:14:04But I think she's rather good.
0:14:08 > 0:14:11When I first sat down, I didn't know what to think.
0:14:13 > 0:14:16After a couple of mouthfuls of coffee you think,
0:14:16 > 0:14:18"Actually, this is rather good fun."
0:14:19 > 0:14:24- APPLAUSE - Thank you. How very nice of you.
0:14:26 > 0:14:30'Well, the egg's a bit overdone, but they're bound to be, aren't they?'
0:14:45 > 0:14:47One of the things I really enjoy, being a cook,
0:14:47 > 0:14:50is that I go to find things in cities that nobody else
0:14:50 > 0:14:52would dream to go look for.
0:14:52 > 0:14:54And this is a case in point.
0:14:54 > 0:14:58This is a statue of one Colonel Kulczycki,
0:14:58 > 0:15:01who was involved in the final cavalry charge
0:15:01 > 0:15:05which broke the Turk siege of Vienna.
0:15:05 > 0:15:07And after the Turks had all fled,
0:15:07 > 0:15:11they found all these pots and bags of beans.
0:15:11 > 0:15:13And nobody knew what they were.
0:15:13 > 0:15:15They thought the beans were probably camel food.
0:15:15 > 0:15:17But Kulczycki knew.
0:15:17 > 0:15:19Because he'd been in a Turkish prison
0:15:19 > 0:15:23and he knew that they were coffee beans and coffee-making equipment.
0:15:23 > 0:15:25And he said, "I'll look after these."
0:15:25 > 0:15:30Took them away and founded the first coffee house in Vienna.
0:15:30 > 0:15:32The rest, of course, is history.
0:15:32 > 0:15:35In this case, it really was history.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40People who study such things
0:15:40 > 0:15:44will say there was an Armenian coffee house here
0:15:44 > 0:15:47before Kulczycki came along.
0:15:47 > 0:15:50But that's all part of the cafe culture -
0:15:50 > 0:15:52something I want to get to know about.
0:15:52 > 0:15:57James Mowlam is an Englishman who fell in love with Vienna.
0:15:57 > 0:15:59Incidentally, all the leading artists
0:15:59 > 0:16:04and intellectuals in their day had their own favourite cafe.
0:16:04 > 0:16:08This one, Landtmann, was Dr Sigmund Freud's.
0:16:10 > 0:16:11Ah, good.
0:16:11 > 0:16:15I must say, having read about the Cafe Landtmann,
0:16:15 > 0:16:19I don't think I'd have had the bottle to come here on my own.
0:16:19 > 0:16:23It seems so formal and the waiters look a bit sort of imposing.
0:16:23 > 0:16:25Well, you are a bit underdressed.
0:16:25 > 0:16:30Well, actually, compared to you, of course I'm underdressed.
0:16:30 > 0:16:32Just give me sort of some tips on what to do, or not to do.
0:16:32 > 0:16:35- OK, don't ask for a coffee in a cafe.- Right.
0:16:35 > 0:16:37You know, the way...
0:16:37 > 0:16:40That's like a cardinal sin, if you like.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42What do you ask for?
0:16:42 > 0:16:44Well, you've got about 12 different types of coffee.
0:16:44 > 0:16:46OK, give us a couple then...
0:16:46 > 0:16:49A couple. I mean, what we're drinking here is a melange.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52- A melange.- Which is kind of a bit like a cappuccino,
0:16:52 > 0:16:54but without the chocolate on top.
0:16:54 > 0:16:57If you ask for a cappuccino here they'd put cream on it and stuff.
0:16:57 > 0:17:00It's a disgusting thing.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03But, you know, you're supposed to know before you order.
0:17:03 > 0:17:06What about if I dared to attract a waiter's attention.
0:17:06 > 0:17:08- What would I say to him? - Well, do you want to do it now?
0:17:08 > 0:17:10Well, I'll try. Can you do for me?
0:17:10 > 0:17:12There's...
0:17:12 > 0:17:19THEY CONVERSE IN GERMAN
0:17:19 > 0:17:21- Do you want a cake? - Strudel?- Strudel.- Strudel.
0:17:21 > 0:17:22- I'd like a strudel. - Apple strudel?- Yeah.
0:17:22 > 0:17:25With vanilla sauce, with whipped cream or plain?
0:17:25 > 0:17:26I like it with vanilla sauce.
0:17:26 > 0:17:29- That would be very nice. - Don't call it...- One or two?
0:17:29 > 0:17:31- Two, please.- Two. - Don't call it custard.
0:17:31 > 0:17:34- OK, I promise.- Yeah. No custard.- OK.- Vanilla sauce.
0:17:34 > 0:17:35Thank you.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38- He seemed quite nice. - Yeah, he's very nice.
0:17:38 > 0:17:41- I think it's because the camera's here.- Ah.
0:17:41 > 0:17:43Don't forget this is his patch.
0:17:43 > 0:17:44The customer is not king.
0:17:44 > 0:17:48The customer is the sort of lowly prince compared to the waiter,
0:17:48 > 0:17:50who is in fact king.
0:17:50 > 0:17:52Or probably, in Vienna, emperor.
0:17:52 > 0:17:54- Emperor.- Yeah.
0:17:54 > 0:17:56Actually, I quite like that.
0:17:56 > 0:17:59You know, because in the UK we're always so sort of like,
0:17:59 > 0:18:02"Have you had... Is everything all right?" Everything like this.
0:18:02 > 0:18:04- This is how we have to be. - Yeah, yeah, yeah.
0:18:04 > 0:18:06But actually if they've got a bit of attitude,
0:18:06 > 0:18:07I find that quite good news.
0:18:09 > 0:18:11- Thank you. - Oh, that looks nice.
0:18:11 > 0:18:13- So, this is not custard. - This is not custard.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15- This is vanilla sauce.- Great.
0:18:17 > 0:18:20- Enjoy your meal. - Thank you.- Danke schon.
0:18:20 > 0:18:22I've got a great story about a friend of mine,
0:18:22 > 0:18:24who's actually German, not Austrian, and...
0:18:24 > 0:18:27Bit of a downer being German in Austria, isn't it?
0:18:27 > 0:18:28A little bit. A little bit.
0:18:28 > 0:18:31But probably don't talk about that. Erm, yeah.
0:18:31 > 0:18:35He came into a cafe and asked if he could have gravy with his schnitzel.
0:18:35 > 0:18:38And the waiter promptly asked him to leave.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43And the Viennese way in particular, or the Austrian way,
0:18:43 > 0:18:44is much, much, much more relaxed.
0:18:44 > 0:18:46They're not so regimented.
0:18:46 > 0:18:48They've always got time for a coffee.
0:18:48 > 0:18:50They've always got time for a beer.
0:18:50 > 0:18:51They've always got time for a little chat.
0:18:51 > 0:18:53They've always got time to make a joke.
0:18:53 > 0:18:55You know, it's that kind of place.
0:18:55 > 0:18:58Well, let's tuck into our apple strudel and custard.
0:18:58 > 0:19:01- Custard? You can't call it custard. - Sorry. Apple strudel...
0:19:01 > 0:19:03- Vanilla sauce.- Vanilla sauce. - Vanilla sauce.
0:19:03 > 0:19:04He'll get most offended.
0:19:04 > 0:19:07- You don't want to upset the waiter any more.- No.
0:19:15 > 0:19:18They're so considerate, the Viennese.
0:19:18 > 0:19:20Instead of having little green men,
0:19:20 > 0:19:24they've got little green same-sex partners
0:19:24 > 0:19:26helping you to cross safely.
0:19:26 > 0:19:32Anyway, rot ist stehen, grun ist gehen.
0:19:32 > 0:19:34I've walked to hundreds of restaurants
0:19:34 > 0:19:37making these programmes over the years.
0:19:37 > 0:19:40Usually, they're doing something innovative with food
0:19:40 > 0:19:41that I want to know about.
0:19:41 > 0:19:45But at the moment, I couldn't care less about that.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47Because it's lunchtime and I'm ravenous.
0:19:47 > 0:19:52And this restaurant, run for years by Christian Wanek,
0:19:52 > 0:19:56has a brilliant reputation for really well-cooked,
0:19:56 > 0:19:59no-frills local dishes.
0:19:59 > 0:20:00Couldn't be better.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05- Hello, Rick, how are you? - Christian. Nice to meet you.
0:20:05 > 0:20:07Yeah, nice to meet you. Hello.
0:20:07 > 0:20:08Good.
0:20:08 > 0:20:12- Well...- "Was werden wir heute machen, wir zwei," you'd say.
0:20:12 > 0:20:14- Erm...what? - What will we do together?
0:20:14 > 0:20:16Well, I'd quite like... THEY LAUGH
0:20:16 > 0:20:18- Cooking.- Yeah, why not?- Yes!
0:20:18 > 0:20:20THEY LAUGH
0:20:22 > 0:20:25If you like steak, you'll love this.
0:20:25 > 0:20:26Zwiebelrostbraten.
0:20:28 > 0:20:30First of all, Christian bashes out a couple
0:20:30 > 0:20:33of really good entrecote steaks.
0:20:34 > 0:20:39Then he seasons them greatly and pan-fries them
0:20:39 > 0:20:42one by one in a smattering of oil.
0:20:43 > 0:20:46Then, in the same frying pan, he adds beef stock...
0:20:49 > 0:20:52..and a couple of generous dollops of butter,
0:20:52 > 0:20:54whisking as it reduces.
0:20:56 > 0:21:00Christian, I like this sauce. Very simple. Good stock, I guess.
0:21:00 > 0:21:01- Beef?- Yeah, beef.
0:21:01 > 0:21:04- The beef is very important. - It looks good.
0:21:04 > 0:21:07- Plenty of butter.- Yes, but the important thing
0:21:07 > 0:21:09- is you have a good, er...- Stock.- Yes.
0:21:11 > 0:21:15That is superb. It's all about your stock.
0:21:18 > 0:21:21'I think this dish is all about onions, really.
0:21:21 > 0:21:24'He makes sure that all the onions are coated in the flour
0:21:24 > 0:21:27'and deep-fries them.'
0:21:27 > 0:21:29Christian, why do you enjoy cooking?
0:21:29 > 0:21:31Why do you like it so much?
0:21:31 > 0:21:34Yeah, because before I like to eat
0:21:34 > 0:21:36and look how the people cook.
0:21:38 > 0:21:42How my mother was cooking in my house.
0:21:43 > 0:21:45And, so, I start to cook.
0:21:46 > 0:21:48- And every day you enjoy it? - Every day.
0:21:49 > 0:21:53When you don't like, you cannot make this profession,
0:21:53 > 0:21:56because I work here 15 hours every day.
0:21:56 > 0:21:58In my kitchen.
0:22:02 > 0:22:05A few fried potatoes on the side,
0:22:05 > 0:22:09along with gherkins and mustard - senf, love it.
0:22:09 > 0:22:11Robust food to say the least.
0:22:11 > 0:22:16Remember, it's called zwiebelrostbraten.
0:22:18 > 0:22:20This is really good.
0:22:21 > 0:22:22Thank you, Rick.
0:22:22 > 0:22:25This is food that makes me greedy.
0:22:25 > 0:22:27You get food that's very intellectual,
0:22:27 > 0:22:30very, sort of, like thoughtful.
0:22:30 > 0:22:32You say, "Oh, yes, that's nice."
0:22:32 > 0:22:35This, I just say, "Shut up.
0:22:35 > 0:22:38- "I want to carry on eating because it is so good."- Thank you, Rick.
0:22:38 > 0:22:40THEY LAUGH
0:22:40 > 0:22:41- Prost.- Prost. - GLASSES CLINK
0:22:44 > 0:22:47250 years ago,
0:22:47 > 0:22:51this will have been the centre for musical excellence.
0:22:51 > 0:22:53Here there were patrons and patronage
0:22:53 > 0:22:59and people with a good ear who could tell the wheat from the chaff.
0:22:59 > 0:23:04People who liked talking and people who had the ear of the Emperor.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08Yes. It was a good place to be a musician.
0:23:08 > 0:23:10Well, I had to come here.
0:23:10 > 0:23:14This is when Mozart composed The Marriage of Figaro,
0:23:14 > 0:23:16probably my favourite opera.
0:23:16 > 0:23:18There were loads of musicians all over Vienna.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20I suppose they are a bit like rock and roll stars.
0:23:20 > 0:23:24And they were always practising and writing music day and night.
0:23:24 > 0:23:27And the neighbours would say, "Shut up, get out",
0:23:27 > 0:23:29and so they were always being moved on.
0:23:29 > 0:23:31So, in fact, he lived here for a while,
0:23:31 > 0:23:33but when he died he was somewhere else.
0:23:33 > 0:23:36That's when he wrote the Requiem, as he was dying,
0:23:36 > 0:23:39probably because he'd been chucked out of here.
0:23:39 > 0:23:40HE LAUGHS
0:23:43 > 0:23:46MUSIC: Requiem: Tex Tremendae Majestatis by Mozart
0:23:49 > 0:23:54This restaurant is home to one of Vienna's most famous dishes.
0:23:54 > 0:23:57Second only to the schnitzel.
0:23:57 > 0:23:59It's called tafelspitz.
0:23:59 > 0:24:03And it's a dish of three acts.
0:24:05 > 0:24:07Number one, the soup.
0:24:07 > 0:24:11Vegetables in a beef broth with sliced pancake.
0:24:12 > 0:24:16Number two, the marrowbone jelly on toast.
0:24:17 > 0:24:21And number three, the beef with apple sauce,
0:24:21 > 0:24:26freshly grated horseradish, bread sauce and spinach.
0:24:33 > 0:24:36This was the favourite dish of the Emperor Franz Joseph.
0:24:43 > 0:24:44I think this is topside,
0:24:44 > 0:24:47but our cuts are a bit different.
0:24:47 > 0:24:48Maybe silverside.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52They go in for two and a half hours.
0:24:54 > 0:24:58- After two and a half hours, the thing looks like this.- Wow.
0:24:58 > 0:25:00- Look at that.- Yes.
0:25:00 > 0:25:02Oh, such a lovely beefy aroma.
0:25:02 > 0:25:04And look at that stock.
0:25:04 > 0:25:06I mean, that is so full of flavour.
0:25:06 > 0:25:08Now we're going to cool this down right over here.
0:25:10 > 0:25:14- I see.- In ice water.- And that's to make it easier to cut?- Exactly.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16- That's the way.- Gosh.
0:25:17 > 0:25:22- And now we continue to finish the soup.- Ah.
0:25:22 > 0:25:26'He puts in carrots, celeriac, leeks,
0:25:26 > 0:25:29'peppercorns, bay leaves
0:25:29 > 0:25:32'and onions that have been roasted already.
0:25:32 > 0:25:36'You can buy them already cooked in the market.
0:25:36 > 0:25:41'Meanwhile, the beef joints have been cooled in the icy water
0:25:41 > 0:25:43'and they're sliced.'
0:25:43 > 0:25:45Just looking at this cut, this tafelspitz,
0:25:45 > 0:25:49it's got quite a lot of connective tissue, and so long, slow-cooking.
0:25:49 > 0:25:51It'll stay nice and moist.
0:25:51 > 0:25:53And you can see, after two hours cooking,
0:25:53 > 0:25:57it still looks really juicy even when it's cold.
0:25:57 > 0:25:59And very appetising, very nice colour.
0:25:59 > 0:26:03And if that was a, sort of, leaner joint, it would all fall apart.
0:26:03 > 0:26:07I can see now why he needs to chill it with the ice,
0:26:07 > 0:26:09because it just makes it, you can cut it, because
0:26:09 > 0:26:14when we eat this, it'll be, like, almost falling apart in your mouth.
0:26:14 > 0:26:16- Exactly. Very good. - RICK LAUGHS
0:26:18 > 0:26:23'A food writer said that people liked tafelspitz 100 years ago,
0:26:23 > 0:26:24'they like it now
0:26:24 > 0:26:27'and they'll like it in 100 years' time.
0:26:27 > 0:26:29'I think he's right.
0:26:29 > 0:26:31'Incidentally, this is one of
0:26:31 > 0:26:34'Vladimir Putin's favourite restaurants.
0:26:34 > 0:26:38'And they said he has a great sense of humour.'
0:26:40 > 0:26:45It's just fantastic, but also I was just thinking it works so well.
0:26:45 > 0:26:49Everywhere we've been filming, there's been one dish
0:26:49 > 0:26:52that people love and there's been one restaurant
0:26:52 > 0:26:54that people queue up to get to.
0:26:54 > 0:26:56There's a sort of something to be learnt about that,
0:26:56 > 0:26:59If you just have one perfect dish like this,
0:26:59 > 0:27:01or like fish and chips,
0:27:01 > 0:27:04or in Bordeaux, like the place called The Entrecote,
0:27:04 > 0:27:06they just served a perfect steak,
0:27:06 > 0:27:10people will absolutely make a path to your door.
0:27:22 > 0:27:24# Fly me to the moon.
0:27:25 > 0:27:29# And let me play among the stars
0:27:31 > 0:27:32# Let me see what's... #
0:27:32 > 0:27:36I'd like to think that one morning a record producer will be
0:27:36 > 0:27:40having a boiled egg and say, "Wow, that's just what I'm looking for."
0:27:42 > 0:27:44# Hold my hand... #
0:27:44 > 0:27:46Stranger things have happened.
0:27:46 > 0:27:49# And adore
0:27:50 > 0:27:52# Darling, kiss me... #
0:28:00 > 0:28:05This is Demel, arguably the most famous pastry
0:28:05 > 0:28:07and chocolate shop in the world.
0:28:08 > 0:28:14I had to come here. It's a temple to the art of the pastry chef.
0:28:14 > 0:28:17And Vienna has an incredibly sweet tooth.
0:28:17 > 0:28:20- Dietmar.- Nice to meet you, Rick.
0:28:20 > 0:28:22You're welcome.
0:28:23 > 0:28:25RICK LAUGHS
0:28:25 > 0:28:30I love this. Apple strudel. One of my favourite Viennese dishes.
0:28:30 > 0:28:34I'm sure it came from the Ottomans originally, with the filo pastry
0:28:34 > 0:28:35and the cinnamon.
0:28:35 > 0:28:40It's so lovely just to watch these girls lovingly roll the apples,
0:28:40 > 0:28:45the sugar, the sultanas, the breadcrumbs in the soft filo pastry.
0:28:45 > 0:28:48It's like they're tucking up their babies in time for bed.
0:28:53 > 0:28:55This is the main reason I'm here.
0:28:55 > 0:28:59I do love strudel, but the sachertorte is a legend here.
0:29:01 > 0:29:05I could look all day long at these masters covering the cakes
0:29:05 > 0:29:08with this warm, luxurious chocolate.
0:29:08 > 0:29:09And the smell.
0:29:16 > 0:29:19For me, coming on a long weekend to Vienna,
0:29:19 > 0:29:22I could not possibly miss this.
0:29:22 > 0:29:26The sachertorte, it is to me what Vienna is all about.
0:29:26 > 0:29:28I mean, whenever I think of here, I think of the sachertorte.
0:29:28 > 0:29:31I'm lucky enough to have had them all my life,
0:29:31 > 0:29:33because my aunt made a really good one,
0:29:33 > 0:29:38but to come here to the temple of sachertorte is a complete pleasure.
0:29:41 > 0:29:44I've got so much regard for pastry chefs,
0:29:44 > 0:29:47or "zuckerbacker" as they call them here.
0:29:47 > 0:29:48The man in charge,
0:29:48 > 0:29:52who's been here for 35 years, is Dietmar Muthenthaler.
0:29:54 > 0:29:57My Aunt Zoe, who was of German extraction,
0:29:57 > 0:30:01used to make a sachertorte with two layers of apricot jam.
0:30:01 > 0:30:03And then you only have one?
0:30:03 > 0:30:06Yes, it's not a problem, calling also Sacher cake.
0:30:06 > 0:30:09- OK.- But don't use any other marmalade.
0:30:09 > 0:30:12No marmalade? Strawberry jam?
0:30:12 > 0:30:15Other jam like strawberry jam, it's not the same cake.
0:30:15 > 0:30:16It's a chocolate cake.
0:30:16 > 0:30:20You can make it, it's not a problem. But don't call it Sacher cake.
0:30:20 > 0:30:21Fair enough.
0:30:21 > 0:30:25So, what would happen if you, one morning, went crazy,
0:30:25 > 0:30:27changed the recipe.
0:30:27 > 0:30:29No, no, no, it's not possible!
0:30:32 > 0:30:37This cake has been the centre of a court case that lasted for years.
0:30:37 > 0:30:41It started when a young chef called Sacher trained here,
0:30:41 > 0:30:44and while doing so, invented a chocolate torte.
0:30:45 > 0:30:48It was lovely and it had a thin line
0:30:48 > 0:30:51of apricot jam running through it.
0:30:51 > 0:30:53Anyway, some time later,
0:30:53 > 0:30:58Sacher moved away and bought his own place further up the street.
0:30:58 > 0:31:01This is what it looks like now.
0:31:02 > 0:31:04And this is the rub.
0:31:04 > 0:31:07He still continued to make his own Sachertorte,
0:31:07 > 0:31:10but Demel's thought this wasn't right
0:31:10 > 0:31:14because the cake had been created in their premises.
0:31:14 > 0:31:18Hence, a big, long, bitter, complicated court case
0:31:18 > 0:31:21that went on for years.
0:31:23 > 0:31:27Sacher's cake was the only one that could be called
0:31:27 > 0:31:29the official Sachertorte.
0:31:29 > 0:31:32You can make other ones but this was the official one
0:31:32 > 0:31:36and it has a seal, a stamp on it, to show that.
0:31:36 > 0:31:40To me, it's a most fascinating piece of history.
0:31:40 > 0:31:42Because what does constitute...
0:31:42 > 0:31:44Who owns a recipe?
0:31:44 > 0:31:45If a chef comes to work for me
0:31:45 > 0:31:49and creates something while he's working for me, is it my recipe?
0:31:49 > 0:31:51Is it his? I don't know.
0:31:56 > 0:32:00It was a great morning at Demel's, watching those apple strudels
0:32:00 > 0:32:04being made in great lengths.
0:32:04 > 0:32:07Far too much for domestic consumption,
0:32:07 > 0:32:12so I'm going to make one just for four and just as good.
0:32:13 > 0:32:16I am quite a connoisseur of apple strudel.
0:32:16 > 0:32:20What I tend to find is though, with a lot of apple strudels,
0:32:20 > 0:32:24they put too much breadcrumb in the filling and it's a bit stodgy.
0:32:24 > 0:32:28So I'm being very careful in my recipe to make sure that the filling
0:32:28 > 0:32:32is very, very fruity and the breadcrumbs in there
0:32:32 > 0:32:34are fried in butter.
0:32:36 > 0:32:39The apples go into a bowl and now lemon.
0:32:39 > 0:32:45A very generous grating of lemon zest and also the juice of a lemon.
0:32:45 > 0:32:48Cinnamon, that's ground cinnamon.
0:32:48 > 0:32:52Then currants, caster sugar
0:32:52 > 0:32:55and now the breadcrumbs.
0:32:56 > 0:32:59I loved watching the strudel being made at Demel's.
0:32:59 > 0:33:02They were just throwing it out across the worktop
0:33:02 > 0:33:04like a chambermaid laying a bed.
0:33:04 > 0:33:06It was whoosh!
0:33:06 > 0:33:09They made them in six foot lengths.
0:33:09 > 0:33:14This is only going to be about that long.
0:33:14 > 0:33:16So, you just have to build up these layers,
0:33:16 > 0:33:18about six or seven I like to do.
0:33:18 > 0:33:21Previously, I couldn't have made this.
0:33:21 > 0:33:24It's not like puff pastry which I actually used to enjoy making,
0:33:24 > 0:33:27but now of course you tend to buy it.
0:33:27 > 0:33:30But making filo pastry, it is for the professionals.
0:33:30 > 0:33:33It is so hard to get it as thin as that and it's not
0:33:33 > 0:33:37just about rolling, it's also about throwing it out to stretch it.
0:33:37 > 0:33:40But now anybody can make apple strudel.
0:33:52 > 0:33:56I have never done this before so I'm just hoping it will work.
0:33:57 > 0:34:01I looked it up on YouTube, so...
0:34:02 > 0:34:04Well, I've got to be honest!
0:34:04 > 0:34:05Here we go.
0:34:07 > 0:34:12Oh, that's not too bad. Poking out a bit at the edges, but...yeah.
0:34:12 > 0:34:15Now, simply onto my baking sheet.
0:34:18 > 0:34:19Perfect.
0:34:19 > 0:34:21More butter.
0:34:21 > 0:34:23You have to feed it butter, but I don't care.
0:34:23 > 0:34:27I love butter. There we go, glistening with butter.
0:34:27 > 0:34:33Now, straight into the oven at 190 degrees.
0:34:35 > 0:34:37It don't bloody fit!
0:34:37 > 0:34:39LAUGHTER
0:34:39 > 0:34:43Bake for 40 minutes at 190 degrees.
0:34:43 > 0:34:46That's if you find the right baking tray!
0:34:46 > 0:34:48And now for custard.
0:34:48 > 0:34:50That lovely word, custard.
0:34:50 > 0:34:53So much nicer than vanilla sauce.
0:35:11 > 0:35:14This is very much on the tourist map of Vienna.
0:35:14 > 0:35:19It's a public housing development created by the Austrian artist,
0:35:19 > 0:35:22Friedensreich Hundertwasser
0:35:22 > 0:35:25and built in the early 80s.
0:35:25 > 0:35:29It's the complete opposite of everything else here in the city
0:35:29 > 0:35:34and it's very Gaudi-like, very Tolkien and created by a man
0:35:34 > 0:35:39who preferred the uneven contours of Mother Nature herself.
0:35:44 > 0:35:48He also created more prosaic things like this,
0:35:48 > 0:35:52the chimney for Vienna's waste incineration plant.
0:35:52 > 0:35:56It's very War of the Worlds, very HG Wells.
0:35:56 > 0:36:01It could be the command centre for the aliens, gazing down,
0:36:01 > 0:36:04ready to fire their death rays.
0:36:05 > 0:36:10You can see it from the vineyards on the extreme outskirts of Vienna.
0:36:10 > 0:36:12They are part of the city, and the wine,
0:36:12 > 0:36:15especially the white, is fabulous.
0:36:15 > 0:36:20The grower and winemaker here is Fritz Wieninger.
0:36:20 > 0:36:22All these vineyards belong to Vienna.
0:36:22 > 0:36:26Everything is within the city limits of Vienna
0:36:26 > 0:36:30and Vienna is situated at the last rolling hills of the Alps.
0:36:31 > 0:36:32It is mainly white wine.
0:36:32 > 0:36:35Historically it was always white wine in Vienna.
0:36:35 > 0:36:37So what are the main grapes that you're growing?
0:36:37 > 0:36:42Well, mainly it is a field blend wine. We call it Gemischter Satz,
0:36:42 > 0:36:46where different grape varieties are planted in one vineyard,
0:36:46 > 0:36:49completely mixed, and you harvest everything together.
0:36:49 > 0:36:51No matter if there's a little over ripeness,
0:36:51 > 0:36:53a little under ripeness.
0:36:53 > 0:36:55The one gives more the exotic fruit,
0:36:55 > 0:36:58the other gives more the acidity and freshness.
0:36:58 > 0:37:02That is the typical wine of the region, of Vienna,
0:37:02 > 0:37:04and it's called Gemischter Satz.
0:37:04 > 0:37:08- Gemischter Satz?- Gemischter Satz. - I love those German words!
0:37:08 > 0:37:11So, wouldn't real wine buffs say, "That couldn't be a great wine
0:37:11 > 0:37:14"because they are always down to specific varieties"?
0:37:14 > 0:37:17Absolutely wrong. It can be a great wine
0:37:17 > 0:37:21because it's not a problem to have different varieties together.
0:37:21 > 0:37:23I think it's even a challenge
0:37:23 > 0:37:26and it gives the wine the chance
0:37:26 > 0:37:32to show more the terroir and less the fruit of distinct varieties,
0:37:32 > 0:37:35so it's very interesting.
0:37:35 > 0:37:38Do you think it's the wine or growing the vines that makes
0:37:38 > 0:37:43winemakers so happy? I have never met a miserable winemaker!
0:37:43 > 0:37:48Well, I think it's both, it's the wine and the vineyards
0:37:48 > 0:37:51and the winemaking. It's both.
0:37:51 > 0:37:53- And the drinking?- And the drinking!
0:37:53 > 0:37:55- Can we go and taste some? - Yes, of course.
0:37:55 > 0:37:57- Let's have a taste.- Cheers!
0:38:09 > 0:38:11- Cheers.- Cheers.
0:38:11 > 0:38:12- Gemischter Satz.- Mm-hmm, yes.
0:38:17 > 0:38:20That is really lovely. Really, really great.
0:38:20 > 0:38:23Do you know what I was thinking about, this Gemischter Satz,
0:38:23 > 0:38:28the mixed vines everywhere, it's a bit like a mongrel dog.
0:38:28 > 0:38:32Pedigree dogs may look prettier and sleeker and smarter,
0:38:32 > 0:38:35but there's something about mongrels.
0:38:35 > 0:38:37They've got a little mix of this dog, that dog
0:38:37 > 0:38:39and every other dog in there,
0:38:39 > 0:38:42and they tend to be a bit smarter and live a bit longer.
0:38:42 > 0:38:44I think so too, you are absolutely right.
0:38:44 > 0:38:47This is five different grape varieties
0:38:47 > 0:38:51and everything in one wine, all the good things of the five.
0:38:51 > 0:38:53- Prost.- Cheers. Prost.
0:38:55 > 0:38:58'Oh, and this is a real flavour of Vienna.
0:38:58 > 0:39:02'Freshly grated horseradish on ham. It's fab!'
0:39:06 > 0:39:09- Oh!- Hot?
0:39:09 > 0:39:12- Very hot but lovely! Great idea.- Very healthy.
0:39:12 > 0:39:15- Cleans your nose.- It does!
0:39:15 > 0:39:17We put hot English mustard on ham like this
0:39:17 > 0:39:19but this is just as good, even hotter!
0:39:22 > 0:39:26- And you have to have a glass of wine.- I think so. Cheers.
0:39:34 > 0:39:36The last time I came here to the Naschmarkt
0:39:36 > 0:39:39was in early summer a couple of years ago.
0:39:39 > 0:39:40The place was full.
0:39:40 > 0:39:42My wife and I had a plate of seafood
0:39:42 > 0:39:46and a glass of the local white wine and it was lovely.
0:39:46 > 0:39:50Today, it's just above freezing with light hail
0:39:50 > 0:39:52and it's blowing a hooley,
0:39:52 > 0:39:57but I'll never forget the sauerkraut I tasted here made by Leo,
0:39:57 > 0:40:01who was taught by his grandfather at the age of six.
0:40:01 > 0:40:06- Hello.- Hello, sir. Hi.- Nice to meet you.- Nice to meet you, sir.
0:40:06 > 0:40:08Very keen on your sauerkraut.
0:40:08 > 0:40:12- Yes. Do you want to try it? - I'd love to try some.
0:40:12 > 0:40:14Do you prefer the milder one or the stronger one?
0:40:14 > 0:40:17Milder one is to be eaten raw or to make salad from it.
0:40:17 > 0:40:21- I'll try some mild and then... - Yes.- Can I take some?
0:40:21 > 0:40:23- Yes, of course.- It's really hard to taste it.
0:40:23 > 0:40:30It's a very mild one, to be eaten raw or to make salad from it.
0:40:30 > 0:40:33- It's really lovely.- Wonderful taste.
0:40:33 > 0:40:36It's really complex in flavour.
0:40:36 > 0:40:42I'm just surprised people get so sniffy about sauerkraut.
0:40:42 > 0:40:46It is a bit sniffy, but the flavour is so complex.
0:40:46 > 0:40:49It's caraway in there, isn't it?
0:40:49 > 0:40:52Caraway and juniper berries.
0:40:52 > 0:40:57Sensational! Do you think you can taste how good it is for you?
0:40:57 > 0:40:59Yes, as my grandfather always said,
0:40:59 > 0:41:02"Leo, if you eat sauerkraut, it keeps you alive and healthy,"
0:41:02 > 0:41:06because he survived five years imprisoned in First World War.
0:41:06 > 0:41:09He was brought to a death camp near Vladivostok
0:41:09 > 0:41:12and when they arrived, the temperature was - 40 degrees,
0:41:12 > 0:41:17and they had only a thin shirt and a thin jacket and nothing else.
0:41:17 > 0:41:21He said, "It was so cold, you can't imagine,"
0:41:21 > 0:41:27but they got every day a thin soup of sauerkraut and two potatoes.
0:41:27 > 0:41:29Nothing else for the complete day.
0:41:29 > 0:41:31So he survived on the sauerkraut?
0:41:31 > 0:41:35He said he just got so many vitamins, he was so strong
0:41:35 > 0:41:37when he came back, my grandfather said to me,
0:41:37 > 0:41:41at least they were allowed to hunt bears.
0:41:41 > 0:41:45They made smoked bear meat.
0:41:45 > 0:41:49- Men. Real men!- And sauerkraut. - Fabulous.
0:41:49 > 0:41:53Continuing on a cabbagey theme, this is sarma,
0:41:53 > 0:41:57the famous and delicious dish of stuffed cabbage,
0:41:57 > 0:42:00and this is Stefanie Herkner and her mum.
0:42:00 > 0:42:05They have sarma as their signature dish in their restaurant.
0:42:05 > 0:42:09Stefanie starts off by frying onions. Quite a lot!
0:42:09 > 0:42:11I'd say about eight.
0:42:11 > 0:42:15It's the main dish in the restaurant and she's frying them in goose fat.
0:42:18 > 0:42:21Next, we're going to put some bacon,
0:42:21 > 0:42:25which actually my uncle makes himself,
0:42:25 > 0:42:27so it's the farm of my grandparents
0:42:27 > 0:42:31and it has a smoky smell that smells divine.
0:42:31 > 0:42:32It does smell divine.
0:42:32 > 0:42:34It smells of real wood smoke.
0:42:34 > 0:42:38My grandmother is 90 years old and for actually her whole life
0:42:38 > 0:42:42she only ate lard fat, so can keep you young as well.
0:42:42 > 0:42:44And she's still alive.
0:42:44 > 0:42:46Been smoking for a long life!
0:42:48 > 0:42:51I know this really smoky fatty bacon will give
0:42:51 > 0:42:55so much deep flavour to the dish.
0:42:55 > 0:42:59Bacon and cabbage, a fabulous combination.
0:42:59 > 0:43:01And now minced pork.
0:43:01 > 0:43:05Stefanie says it has to be pork with a bit of fat.
0:43:05 > 0:43:08It won't work with beef.
0:43:08 > 0:43:10Stefanie, this is so Viennese, stuffed cabbage,
0:43:10 > 0:43:13but why do you like local cuisine?
0:43:13 > 0:43:17I basically like everything where you have the roots
0:43:17 > 0:43:20of the Austro-Hungarian empires.
0:43:20 > 0:43:24The most interesting thing about Viennese cooking
0:43:24 > 0:43:27or Austrian cooking is actually these sort of different influences
0:43:27 > 0:43:32that you have, from Italy, from Hungary, from Serbia,
0:43:32 > 0:43:38so this is cooking my grandmother used to have at home and cook, yes.
0:43:40 > 0:43:44So, carrots, salt and pepper.
0:43:44 > 0:43:50Blimey, that's an awful lot of pepper, and now paprika. Spicy.
0:43:52 > 0:43:56- So what's next?- I'm going to add the rice, it's basically washed rice.
0:43:59 > 0:44:03And then the rice should not cook completely through
0:44:03 > 0:44:05because we are going to fill it later
0:44:05 > 0:44:11and otherwise it becomes too soft, so we're just going to parboil it.
0:44:11 > 0:44:13I get you.
0:44:15 > 0:44:19Now, these leaves come from the classic big white cabbage
0:44:19 > 0:44:21that grow here.
0:44:21 > 0:44:24They take a whole lot of these cabbages, put them in whole
0:44:24 > 0:44:28in barrels, cover them in salt and press them down with weights
0:44:28 > 0:44:32and leave them for two to three months and then they're ready.
0:44:35 > 0:44:38It just looks so appetising and I judge that by the fact
0:44:38 > 0:44:42I already have had my lunch and I really would like to try this.
0:44:42 > 0:44:44Well, that's a compliment!
0:44:44 > 0:44:45THEY LAUGH
0:44:48 > 0:44:51'Finally, she tops it up with water.
0:44:51 > 0:44:56'A bit more paprika, bay leaves and chopped garlic.
0:44:56 > 0:44:58'A sprinkling of peppercorns
0:44:58 > 0:45:01'and she cooks it through for about 20 minutes or so.
0:45:01 > 0:45:05'It doesn't need much, it's sort of cooked already.'
0:45:10 > 0:45:13- Oh, that looks nice. Thank you. - Here you are.
0:45:13 > 0:45:16Fantastic. Wow. Great.
0:45:26 > 0:45:30That's wonderful, and it is just what I wanted,
0:45:30 > 0:45:34it's that sourness of the cabbage that makes the dish.
0:45:34 > 0:45:37- Did you like it, Rick? - Steffy, I loved it!
0:45:37 > 0:45:39Great, thank you. I love it.
0:45:39 > 0:45:42- You love it too! - I love that you love it.
0:45:44 > 0:45:47'That was so nice and so easy to make,
0:45:47 > 0:45:49'it just makes you want to cook.'
0:46:01 > 0:46:06I really like Vienna and especially now I've been introduced to it.
0:46:06 > 0:46:11I love the cafe culture, there is nothing quite like it at home,
0:46:11 > 0:46:14but we do have our pubs. Or at least we did!
0:46:18 > 0:46:21I think that cafes like this are unique to Vienna.
0:46:21 > 0:46:23There's something very relaxing about them.
0:46:23 > 0:46:26You just come in here and you just have a cup of coffee
0:46:26 > 0:46:28and you don't feel rushed.
0:46:28 > 0:46:31You feel you can just sit here and read the newspaper
0:46:31 > 0:46:35or probably in the olden days you could get your post sent over
0:46:35 > 0:46:40and play cards perhaps, and you just feel it's
0:46:40 > 0:46:44a generous atmosphere and it's also the place where you think
0:46:44 > 0:46:46great conversations you'd have,
0:46:46 > 0:46:49because you're not under any commercial pressure.
0:46:49 > 0:46:51That's what I like.
0:46:51 > 0:46:55And this one is just lovely because it's so beautifully old-fashioned.
0:46:56 > 0:47:00Someone said it's a place where you relish time and space
0:47:00 > 0:47:02but only get charged for the coffee.
0:47:21 > 0:47:24And those of my friends who love going to art galleries
0:47:24 > 0:47:28and museums said, "If you're going to Vienna, you've got to go
0:47:28 > 0:47:31"and see the Klimts at the Belvedere Museum.
0:47:31 > 0:47:33"If you don't, you're a complete idiot."
0:47:33 > 0:47:38I'm not an art historian, but I do admire Klimt's work.
0:47:38 > 0:47:43He was indeed a man who loved women in every sense of the word.
0:47:43 > 0:47:47Also he knew, as every wise man knows,
0:47:47 > 0:47:51that it's women who really control relationships.
0:48:00 > 0:48:03When you come to Vienna, you have to come to the Belvedere.
0:48:03 > 0:48:06You'll feel you've let yourself down if you don't.
0:48:06 > 0:48:08When you come to the Belvedere,
0:48:08 > 0:48:11you've got to come to see these Klimts.
0:48:11 > 0:48:13But a word of advice, come early.
0:48:13 > 0:48:17This room is packed for most of the day.
0:48:17 > 0:48:19At one end you've got Judith,
0:48:19 > 0:48:22and at the other end you've got my favourite, The Kiss.
0:48:26 > 0:48:29The Kiss interests me because it was inspired by a visit by Klimt
0:48:29 > 0:48:33to the famous basilica in Ravenna.
0:48:33 > 0:48:36The byzantine mosaics there are fabulous.
0:48:36 > 0:48:39It's a shrine to the Emperor Justinian
0:48:39 > 0:48:41and his beloved wife Theodora.
0:48:42 > 0:48:44The gold and the vibrant colours
0:48:44 > 0:48:48leave a very strong impression on anybody.
0:48:48 > 0:48:51It stayed in my mind on my journey from Venice to Istanbul
0:48:51 > 0:48:54and they must have had a terrific effect on Klimt
0:48:54 > 0:48:58because it completely changed his style after he'd seen them.
0:49:04 > 0:49:06No-one really knows who the lovers are,
0:49:06 > 0:49:10but I like to think of them as Justinian and Theodora.
0:49:10 > 0:49:15Maybe that's who they are supposed to be anyway but Klimt never let on.
0:49:22 > 0:49:24This is Trzesniewski's.
0:49:24 > 0:49:29In their advertising blurb, they say that Kafka lived next door
0:49:29 > 0:49:32and would pop in for a beer and a sandwich.
0:49:32 > 0:49:37Actually, in 1913, Trotsky, Tito, Freud,
0:49:37 > 0:49:41Hitler and Stalin all lived in Vienna.
0:49:41 > 0:49:46Maybe they'd come in here for a really big argument and a sandwich.
0:49:46 > 0:49:49Could I have matjes? Danke schoen.
0:49:51 > 0:49:54It was a Polish cook that started it in 1902,
0:49:54 > 0:49:56and it's so clever,
0:49:56 > 0:49:59because each and every one of these little sandwiches -
0:49:59 > 0:50:04and there are about 22 different sorts - are all the same price.
0:50:04 > 0:50:06That makes things so easy.
0:50:06 > 0:50:09Speck. Bacon and egg. Speck.
0:50:09 > 0:50:10Danke schoen.
0:50:10 > 0:50:15'Sardines and anchovies, cheese and ham, herring and onion.
0:50:15 > 0:50:17'You name it, it's here.'
0:50:17 > 0:50:20- And crab?- Ja.
0:50:20 > 0:50:24'But the most popular by far is egg and bacon.
0:50:24 > 0:50:27'Who would have thought that?'
0:50:27 > 0:50:30I must say, as a caterer, this is a great idea,
0:50:30 > 0:50:32and to think it's over 100 years old,
0:50:32 > 0:50:34because there's no preparation,
0:50:34 > 0:50:37you don't stand and wait while people do things.
0:50:37 > 0:50:39It's all there ready to go.
0:50:39 > 0:50:41There's a limited number of flavours,
0:50:41 > 0:50:43all of which are really nice.
0:50:43 > 0:50:47So it's quick, it's very, very fast turnover.
0:50:47 > 0:50:50There's no problems, really modern thinking,
0:50:50 > 0:50:53but what you get with it too I think's really attractive.
0:50:53 > 0:50:56Just a little tiny beer. They call it a pfiff.
0:50:56 > 0:50:59That doesn't mean that it's a fifth of a litre.
0:50:59 > 0:51:03Pfiff in German means a whistle, possibly because
0:51:03 > 0:51:05it's gone in a whistle!
0:51:10 > 0:51:14This is one of the oldest restaurants in Vienna, Meixner's.
0:51:14 > 0:51:17They are famous for their traditional Viennese dishes,
0:51:17 > 0:51:21and one in particular, and that's goulash.
0:51:22 > 0:51:25Thank you. That looks really nice.
0:51:28 > 0:51:30I'm not even going to taste the meat
0:51:30 > 0:51:33because I just want to taste the sauce, goulash.
0:51:35 > 0:51:38As somebody who lived through the '60s, '70s and '80s I've had
0:51:38 > 0:51:42that many goulashes, but none of them I thought were the real deal.
0:51:42 > 0:51:45Most of them had loads of green peppers, red peppers,
0:51:45 > 0:51:49lots of tomato, and what I thought was really this would be
0:51:49 > 0:51:52mostly about the paprika and indeed it is.
0:51:52 > 0:51:55I sort of feel that with a dish like this you can never have
0:51:55 > 0:51:58too much paprika, sweet paprika,
0:51:58 > 0:52:01and it's just got this lovely thickness about it
0:52:01 > 0:52:06and a sweetness, and I just think this is as good as it gets.
0:52:06 > 0:52:09I don't know, but I suspect that you wouldn't get
0:52:09 > 0:52:10a better goulash anywhere.
0:52:15 > 0:52:17Sadly, they wouldn't give me the recipe,
0:52:17 > 0:52:20but that's a bit of a challenge to a chef.
0:52:20 > 0:52:23I just decided to make one that was possibly even better!
0:52:27 > 0:52:30First of all, lots of onions, about eight.
0:52:30 > 0:52:36Onions are, like in so many things, the key. They are fried in lard.
0:52:36 > 0:52:41I love lard, and it's coming back into fashion with loads of chefs.
0:52:41 > 0:52:43Now when the onions have softened a bit,
0:52:43 > 0:52:48grate in two plump cloves of garlic, and now the beef.
0:52:48 > 0:52:52Shin of beef cut into generous chunks.
0:52:52 > 0:52:54Shin is really good
0:52:54 > 0:52:57because you get this gelatinous quality with it,
0:52:57 > 0:53:00which makes the gravy very silky,
0:53:00 > 0:53:03and of course, if you cook it long enough,
0:53:03 > 0:53:07it's so tender and full of flavour and not that expensive.
0:53:10 > 0:53:13I like it when a dish has history.
0:53:13 > 0:53:15Goulash certainly has history.
0:53:15 > 0:53:19It came from Hungary, from Hungarian cowboys called "gulyas."
0:53:19 > 0:53:23It spread through the Austro-Hungarian Empire
0:53:23 > 0:53:26because the troops were fed goulash.
0:53:26 > 0:53:28It's the obvious thing to feed troops,
0:53:28 > 0:53:31very nourishing and very simple to make.
0:53:31 > 0:53:33Caraway seeds, some paprika and lots of beef.
0:53:36 > 0:53:41I think caraway is bar none the flavour of Germany and Austria.
0:53:41 > 0:53:43I used to hate it. I think it's because my mother hated it.
0:53:43 > 0:53:45"I can't bear caraway!"
0:53:45 > 0:53:48Now I can't get enough of it.
0:53:48 > 0:53:51It's in everything, it's the flavour of sauerkraut,
0:53:51 > 0:53:54the flavour, with paprika, of goulash.
0:53:54 > 0:53:58It's in the potatoes, it's in the bread, it's everywhere.
0:53:58 > 0:54:00Paprika's the key to this dish,
0:54:00 > 0:54:03and I'm going to use two types.
0:54:03 > 0:54:06First, lots of sweet paprika,
0:54:06 > 0:54:11but then some hot paprika too which gives it a subtle kick
0:54:11 > 0:54:13and is my take on the dish.
0:54:14 > 0:54:16Now some brown sugar.
0:54:16 > 0:54:18It just needs a little bit of sweetness, not a lot,
0:54:18 > 0:54:22and brown just to keep the colour nice and deep and dark.
0:54:22 > 0:54:24Tomato puree, only a tiny bit.
0:54:24 > 0:54:27Some of the recipes say never put any tomato in,
0:54:27 > 0:54:31but I just like a tiny bit.
0:54:31 > 0:54:32Some apple cider vinegar,
0:54:32 > 0:54:35just a little bit of tartness in the background.
0:54:35 > 0:54:39There we go, and now some salt.
0:54:39 > 0:54:41About a teaspoon and a half.
0:54:44 > 0:54:48Now, some water. That's all I need to do.
0:54:48 > 0:54:51Except put a lid on it
0:54:51 > 0:54:54and cook it at a low simmer for about an hour and a half.
0:54:54 > 0:54:59Then I'll check it but it takes about one and three-quarter hours.
0:54:59 > 0:55:03To go with the goulash is a little pasta dish called spaetzle.
0:55:05 > 0:55:08It's very popular in Vienna.
0:55:08 > 0:55:12You make a thick batter using flour, eggs and milk
0:55:12 > 0:55:15and then gradually push it through a colander
0:55:15 > 0:55:20over a pan of boiling water. The dough cooks almost straight away.
0:55:20 > 0:55:23Well, it's done in two minutes.
0:55:23 > 0:55:28Spaetzle means "little sparrows".
0:55:28 > 0:55:30They look like little sparrows in the water!
0:55:30 > 0:55:34And now you fry the little sparrows in butter.
0:55:35 > 0:55:39There's a lovely main dish using spaetzle topped with fried onions
0:55:39 > 0:55:42and grated Gruyere and baked in the oven for 20 minutes,
0:55:42 > 0:55:47but now, here, a few rasps of nutmeg and serve.
0:55:47 > 0:55:49I'm so hungry!
0:55:52 > 0:55:55What's it like, Rick?
0:55:57 > 0:55:58Oh...
0:56:01 > 0:56:06It's my very last evening here, and of course it has to be Strauss.
0:56:06 > 0:56:10Coming to Vienna without listening to a Strauss waltz
0:56:10 > 0:56:15would be like going to Lancashire and not tasting a hotpot!
0:56:15 > 0:56:20This is a sort of parade of Strauss's greatest hits.
0:56:20 > 0:56:25Apparently, the Viennese turn their noses up at such performances,
0:56:25 > 0:56:28preferring more less obvious renditions
0:56:28 > 0:56:33played at the Grand Opera House and suchlike. Each to their own!
0:56:33 > 0:56:38But I and my fellow concertgoers can't wait for it to start.
0:57:24 > 0:57:26I like Vienna.
0:57:26 > 0:57:30Maybe because it's still in love with the old traditional dishes
0:57:30 > 0:57:34like potato dumplings, goulash and stuffed cabbage,
0:57:34 > 0:57:37but if I had to choose just two things
0:57:37 > 0:57:39I particularly love about this place,
0:57:39 > 0:57:46number two would be the white wine they call Gemischer Satz - delish -
0:57:46 > 0:57:49and number one, well, it has to be this one,
0:57:49 > 0:57:53the golden and glorious Wiener schnitzel. Yummo!
0:58:12 > 0:58:17That was indeed a brilliant long weekend made better by the music.
0:58:17 > 0:58:22All that's left to say is good night, Vienna.
0:58:22 > 0:58:24# Hey, Rick
0:58:24 > 0:58:27# Where we going next weekend?
0:58:27 > 0:58:31# Are we flying a few hours away
0:58:31 > 0:58:34# For some delicious food, they say
0:58:34 > 0:58:38# We can try dishes in Roma
0:58:38 > 0:58:39# Or Barcelona
0:58:39 > 0:58:42# For something more exotic go the spices of Morocco
0:58:42 > 0:58:46# Yes, you can take your pick
0:58:47 > 0:58:50# And even break the ice in Reykjavik
0:58:50 > 0:58:52# So, Rick, make the booking
0:58:52 > 0:58:54# Let's get cooking
0:58:54 > 0:58:58# And get those taste buds going next weekend. #