0:00:02 > 0:00:04A change is as good as a rest, they say.
0:00:05 > 0:00:08So a long weekend not too far away
0:00:08 > 0:00:11and not obvious like Paris or Rome,
0:00:11 > 0:00:14a place where I can take in some local history,
0:00:14 > 0:00:15a bit of culture,
0:00:15 > 0:00:19but of course it's the food that will always be the key.
0:00:20 > 0:00:24So if you like what the experts say is the best food in the world
0:00:24 > 0:00:27or you're partial to a fishy open sandwich
0:00:27 > 0:00:32followed by a rollercoaster ride, then this could be for you.
0:00:33 > 0:00:37# Hey, Rick, where are we going this weekend?
0:00:37 > 0:00:39Copenhagen!
0:00:40 > 0:00:43# Are we flying a few hours away
0:00:43 > 0:00:46# For some delicious food they say
0:00:46 > 0:00:49# So, Rick, make the booking
0:00:49 > 0:00:51# And let's get cooking
0:00:51 > 0:00:55# And get those taste buds going this weekend. #
0:01:05 > 0:01:08Well, I'm very pleased to be back in Copenhagen.
0:01:08 > 0:01:12I've only been here once before, about 12 years ago.
0:01:12 > 0:01:15I don't actually remember the food as being particularly good then,
0:01:15 > 0:01:19apart from, I think it was called Smorrebrod, something like that.
0:01:19 > 0:01:23These big, sort of, open sandwiches that were so colourful.
0:01:23 > 0:01:26- Smorgasbord? - Not smorgasbord! Smorrebrod.
0:01:26 > 0:01:29Something like that. I might not have it quite right.
0:01:29 > 0:01:31But I just thought they were wonderful.
0:01:31 > 0:01:35But then, over the years, I've been reading about new Nordic cuisine,
0:01:35 > 0:01:40about how they're very, very keen just to give you dishes
0:01:40 > 0:01:42made from local ingredients
0:01:42 > 0:01:45and they don't like olive oil, they don't like tomatoes,
0:01:45 > 0:01:47anything that doesn't come from Denmark.
0:01:47 > 0:01:50But also I've been reading about the Danes
0:01:50 > 0:01:53and apparently they're about the happiest people on Earth.
0:01:53 > 0:01:59But just at the moment, just out of the airport, I'd quite like a beer.
0:01:59 > 0:02:01The Danes make very good beer.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05- Hello.- Hello.
0:02:05 > 0:02:09- Welcome on board.- Rick, my name is. It's nice to meet you.- Hi, Rick.
0:02:09 > 0:02:11- Please come inside.- This looks fun.
0:02:16 > 0:02:18This looks really nice.
0:02:20 > 0:02:22That's fabulous.
0:02:23 > 0:02:26I can feel I'm at sea. I'll sleep well with that.
0:02:27 > 0:02:29What a beautiful view.
0:02:29 > 0:02:32Look at that building over there. That's fantastic.
0:02:32 > 0:02:34Like medieval Copenhagen.
0:02:34 > 0:02:37Something new here, something Victorian there.
0:02:37 > 0:02:39What a lovely room, what a lovely view.
0:02:39 > 0:02:44Wonderful, wonderful, Copenhagen - salty old queen of the sea.
0:02:49 > 0:02:51'Breakfast on the top deck
0:02:51 > 0:02:54'more or less right slam in the middle of the city.
0:02:54 > 0:02:57'OK, it comes out of a machine and it's not brilliant
0:02:57 > 0:02:59'but look where we are!'
0:03:01 > 0:03:04I have to say I'm very happy to be here.
0:03:04 > 0:03:09This is the first time I've arrived on one of my weekends away
0:03:09 > 0:03:12and it hasn't actually been raining, or, more usually, snowing.
0:03:22 > 0:03:25'Cycling is a great thing to do.
0:03:25 > 0:03:28'I haven't done it for about, well, going on about 50 years.
0:03:28 > 0:03:32'Memories of distant summers came flooding back.
0:03:35 > 0:03:39'Everyone who comes here comes to see the Little Mermaid
0:03:39 > 0:03:41'and so very little she is.
0:03:41 > 0:03:45'And Hans Christian Andersen wove her into the tragic tale
0:03:45 > 0:03:50'of a young princess of the sea who sacrificed her true identity
0:03:50 > 0:03:52'to become human.
0:03:55 > 0:03:58Once upon a time this was a Viking fishing village,
0:03:58 > 0:04:01'before it became a great sea port.
0:04:03 > 0:04:06'From my limited experience,
0:04:06 > 0:04:09'Copenhagen is an extremely cool place.
0:04:09 > 0:04:12'You can sense that everywhere you go,
0:04:12 > 0:04:16'in the bars and restaurants, in the markets and around the harbour.
0:04:16 > 0:04:20'It seems stuffed with good, convivial people,
0:04:20 > 0:04:23'friendly and agreeable all the time.
0:04:23 > 0:04:27'It's as if they've come from the Nice People Department
0:04:27 > 0:04:29'at central casting.'
0:04:32 > 0:04:34I like it here, I really do.
0:04:34 > 0:04:37I was trying to think what it is I like about Copenhagen.
0:04:37 > 0:04:40I think, first of all, there's no high-rise buildings.
0:04:40 > 0:04:44I love places like New York but you almost get a sense of panic
0:04:44 > 0:04:47in a big city with big buildings.
0:04:47 > 0:04:50And the other thing I like about it is it's quiet.
0:04:50 > 0:04:53You can hear yourself think, you know?
0:04:53 > 0:04:56And I think the reason for that is that half,
0:04:56 > 0:05:00well over half the transport in Copenhagen is by bike.
0:05:00 > 0:05:04And the nice thing about the bikes is they're not that special.
0:05:04 > 0:05:06They're just very ordinary bikes.
0:05:06 > 0:05:11If you said to someone from here, "What sort of bike have you got?",
0:05:11 > 0:05:13they'd say, "I don't know, it's just a bike."
0:05:13 > 0:05:16It's not like back in the UK where you think,
0:05:16 > 0:05:19"How many gears have you got? Have you got 160 or 200?"
0:05:19 > 0:05:23And also the ridiculous clothes that people wear back home.
0:05:23 > 0:05:25You know, that Lycra.
0:05:25 > 0:05:28I couldn't be seen dead at my age in Lycra,
0:05:28 > 0:05:31especially with the padded bottoms. That's the bit I really hate.
0:05:31 > 0:05:35But here people just wear what they need to go to work.
0:05:35 > 0:05:39The other thing I've noted is that everybody looks healthy.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43They must be having a good diet. They must be eating plenty of fish.
0:05:47 > 0:05:50'I know that Copenhagen has a new cuisine
0:05:50 > 0:05:55'but I wanted to touch base with its traditional gastronomic roots.
0:05:55 > 0:05:58'And that is the open sandwich on rye bread
0:05:58 > 0:06:01'and this is the oldest place in town to get it.
0:06:01 > 0:06:03'Schonnemann.'
0:06:03 > 0:06:05'Famous for its smorrebrod.'
0:06:08 > 0:06:10Fabulous.
0:06:10 > 0:06:12This is...
0:06:12 > 0:06:15the traditional smorrebrod
0:06:15 > 0:06:18but it could be different kind of toppings.
0:06:18 > 0:06:20I came here to Copenhagen 12 years ago
0:06:20 > 0:06:23and I just remember this above everything else
0:06:23 > 0:06:26as being really special.
0:06:26 > 0:06:29I found a lot of the food then was very similar to British food.
0:06:29 > 0:06:32A lot of roast meat and lots of vegetables.
0:06:32 > 0:06:35But this was your little jewel -
0:06:35 > 0:06:38the jewel in the Danish crown was these.
0:06:38 > 0:06:40Smorrebrod.
0:06:40 > 0:06:42Smorrebrod. Smorrebrod.
0:06:42 > 0:06:45It's trying to get that last 'd'. Do it again.
0:06:45 > 0:06:47Smorrebrod.
0:06:47 > 0:06:49Smorrebrod.
0:06:49 > 0:06:50Exactly!
0:06:52 > 0:06:57'Now this is why I like it so much. It's the rye bread.
0:06:57 > 0:07:00'The black bread covered with lard
0:07:00 > 0:07:02'and then herrings
0:07:02 > 0:07:04'and then apples, celery,
0:07:04 > 0:07:07'onions and cream.
0:07:07 > 0:07:09'Probably sour cream.
0:07:09 > 0:07:12'Capers, nasturtium leaves and chervil
0:07:12 > 0:07:15'and probably a few other bits of leaves in there as well.'
0:07:15 > 0:07:17Erm...
0:07:19 > 0:07:21Utterly delicious. Very...
0:07:22 > 0:07:23..very fresh.
0:07:23 > 0:07:26It tastes healthy and good for you.
0:07:26 > 0:07:30You have the sweetness, the sourness, the...the bitterness.
0:07:30 > 0:07:33Everything which you need to have a full dish.
0:07:33 > 0:07:36- And then you need to have schnapps. - As well?
0:07:36 > 0:07:38Schnapps is very good.
0:07:38 > 0:07:42'Oh, dear. I was hoping she wouldn't say that
0:07:42 > 0:07:44'but it would be very rude not to.'
0:07:44 > 0:07:46One complements the other.
0:07:46 > 0:07:49I could become quite addicted.
0:07:51 > 0:07:52Oh, yeah.
0:07:52 > 0:07:54Mm.
0:07:55 > 0:07:58Yes. Lusciousness, that's the thing.
0:08:10 > 0:08:12'Most people who come here for a long weekend
0:08:12 > 0:08:15'come to try the new Nordic cuisine.
0:08:16 > 0:08:19'It's taken the world by storm.
0:08:20 > 0:08:24'Yes, it's moss and bugs, flowers and bark,
0:08:24 > 0:08:26'berries and leaves,
0:08:26 > 0:08:29'and there's no chunky chef's knives or big ladles...
0:08:30 > 0:08:32'..but tweezers.'
0:08:34 > 0:08:39This is arguably the most famous restaurant in the world, Noma.
0:08:39 > 0:08:42It's in a really nice old warehouse that used to be filled with
0:08:42 > 0:08:48salted herrings, whale oil and seal skins from trade with Greenland.
0:08:48 > 0:08:52And the reason it's the most famous is because really Noma
0:08:52 > 0:08:56was the restaurant that put new Nordic cuisine on the map.
0:08:56 > 0:08:59And what is new Nordic cuisine?
0:08:59 > 0:09:03Well, it's an almost puritanical belief in local ingredients.
0:09:03 > 0:09:06You can't even use lemon juice.
0:09:06 > 0:09:10And when I first heard about it, I thought this was ridiculous.
0:09:10 > 0:09:16And indeed I was at the Restaurant Magazine Awards in 2010
0:09:16 > 0:09:21when Noma was recognised as the best restaurant in the world.
0:09:21 > 0:09:24At the time, even, I thought, this is ridiculous,
0:09:24 > 0:09:27but, gradually, it's grown on me.
0:09:27 > 0:09:31Gradually, this idea of sticking to what is local
0:09:31 > 0:09:35has become more and more meaningful, even to an old bloke like me.
0:09:36 > 0:09:38Now, then, if you're asking,
0:09:38 > 0:09:42yes, I'm here and there's Noma, but why aren't you eating there,
0:09:42 > 0:09:44I have to say to you,
0:09:44 > 0:09:49it's because somebody forgot to get me a reservation and I can't get in!
0:09:52 > 0:09:55'So, there's a thousand people at any given time
0:09:55 > 0:09:58'clambering to get in here,
0:09:58 > 0:10:00'including me, it seems.
0:10:00 > 0:10:02'Well, such is life.
0:10:03 > 0:10:05'But success breeds success
0:10:05 > 0:10:08'and in this place there are many restaurants
0:10:08 > 0:10:12'who have embraced the whole concept of new Nordic cuisine
0:10:12 > 0:10:15'and those in the know say that Geranium is the place to go.
0:10:16 > 0:10:20'It's on the top floor of Copenhagen's football stadium
0:10:20 > 0:10:25'and it's got gold, silver and bronze Paul Bocuse statues,
0:10:25 > 0:10:28'as well as being the only three-star Michelin restaurant
0:10:28 > 0:10:31'in the whole of the country.
0:10:34 > 0:10:36Like all these new Nordic cooks,
0:10:36 > 0:10:39they get their inspiration from what surrounds them.
0:10:39 > 0:10:40Here, it's a tree,
0:10:40 > 0:10:44a horse chestnut, right outside the kitchen window.
0:10:44 > 0:10:48And they make it into a dessert, using dried prune puree.
0:10:48 > 0:10:50and woodruff flowers.
0:10:50 > 0:10:51So new Nordic.
0:10:51 > 0:10:53So Copenhagen.
0:10:54 > 0:11:01The head chef and inspiration behind the restaurant, is Rasmus Kofoed.
0:11:01 > 0:11:04Hello, Welcome, Rick, to Geranium kitchen.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06Very, very honoured to be here, I must say.
0:11:06 > 0:11:08Yeah, no, it's a pleasure to have you.
0:11:08 > 0:11:11I'm just really interested, because the kitchen,
0:11:11 > 0:11:14or part of the kitchen, is right out here with the customers.
0:11:14 > 0:11:16- Yeah.- That's quite unusual.
0:11:16 > 0:11:19We can be closer to the guests, and look them in the eyes.
0:11:19 > 0:11:21I think it's important, it's important for me
0:11:21 > 0:11:26when I go out and eat that I can see the people that are cooking for me,
0:11:26 > 0:11:30because it comes from the heart, and that's important, I think.
0:11:30 > 0:11:33I mean, here we serve about 20 servings during the night.
0:11:33 > 0:11:36- We just have that menu. - Gosh, how lovely.
0:11:36 > 0:11:38Just think of that, 20 servings.
0:11:38 > 0:11:43- You start a service and you haven't got 237 to do, you've got 20.- Yeah.
0:11:43 > 0:11:45- So you can really concentrate.- Yeah.
0:11:45 > 0:11:48But I think that's what is so special about your style
0:11:48 > 0:11:51of cooking, really, isn't it? The attention to detail.
0:11:51 > 0:11:53For me, it's not a job.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56I mean, I don't count the hours. For me, it's a way of living.
0:11:56 > 0:12:01And I love this world of gastronomy, with so many layers.
0:12:01 > 0:12:03- Well, can we see something?- Yes.
0:12:03 > 0:12:04We start with this one,
0:12:04 > 0:12:07- which is inspiration from my childhood.- Famous.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09- So...- Signature, almost?
0:12:09 > 0:12:12Yeah, it's one of my signature dishes, and the funny thing,
0:12:12 > 0:12:16it took me two years to develop this razor clam with edible shells.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19Yeah. So, they're edible, but what are they actually made of?
0:12:19 > 0:12:23So, the shell is made from a really thin wheat dough,
0:12:23 > 0:12:27- and then we paint them with algae powder...- Ah-ha?
0:12:27 > 0:12:29..and with charcoal powder.
0:12:29 > 0:12:32And actually, some of the biggest compliments that we could get here
0:12:32 > 0:12:36is the guests leave the shells, because they think it's natural.
0:12:36 > 0:12:43So, this here is tartare of razor clam, tarragon parsley,
0:12:43 > 0:12:47a little bit of lemon zest and then sour cream.
0:12:47 > 0:12:49Put the razor clams back,
0:12:49 > 0:12:53safe between the two shells and then we serve it.
0:12:53 > 0:12:57- Fabulous.- So, now it's finished - and I would like you to taste one.
0:12:57 > 0:12:59- I'd love to.- And...
0:12:59 > 0:13:02Yeah, of course we have to explain that razor clam,
0:13:02 > 0:13:06and it's with edible shells, so they really understand it.
0:13:06 > 0:13:07It's delicious.
0:13:10 > 0:13:14I think we British are generally too cynical to take this sort
0:13:14 > 0:13:17of restaurant food to heart. I really do.
0:13:17 > 0:13:19Eating pebbles from a beach?
0:13:19 > 0:13:23Yes! It's fun, it's different. It's salted white salmon.
0:13:23 > 0:13:26Never heard of that before.
0:13:26 > 0:13:29It's dill jelly, a little touch of ocean spray,
0:13:29 > 0:13:32for that fresh beach feel.
0:13:33 > 0:13:39It's frozen dill juice and fresh cream with horseradish. Try it!
0:13:42 > 0:13:46So, you simply just use your fork, dig it in the green stones,
0:13:46 > 0:13:48dip it in the cream with the horseradish juice,
0:13:48 > 0:13:51get a little bit of the granita, and have some fun.
0:13:56 > 0:14:00It's a sort of symphony of dill, I think, first of all. A lovely...
0:14:00 > 0:14:04There's no herb quite sort of northern tasting...
0:14:04 > 0:14:07But also, I mean, it's always a matter of your eye as well,
0:14:07 > 0:14:11and looking at the presentation, the pebbles, the green colour,
0:14:11 > 0:14:14the dill, it just...
0:14:14 > 0:14:17- Yeah, it's pretty intellectual. - Mm.- It really is.
0:14:17 > 0:14:19Thank you. Thank you.
0:14:19 > 0:14:20RICK LAUGHS
0:14:25 > 0:14:29A local politician said, 'No-one comes here for the sites.'
0:14:29 > 0:14:32What sites? They come here for the food.
0:14:32 > 0:14:37But that doesn't actually mean you have to spend something like £300
0:14:37 > 0:14:43a head for a fine 20 course tasting menu, matched with excellent wine.
0:14:43 > 0:14:48No, it could well be a hot dog in the city's popular Paper Island.
0:14:48 > 0:14:53In fact, we had a brilliant crew lunch there. I love crew lunches.
0:14:53 > 0:14:56They serve food from all over the world.
0:14:56 > 0:15:00I met up with Marie Holm, a famous food blogger here,
0:15:00 > 0:15:04and she's intensely proud of how the new cuisine has evolved.
0:15:05 > 0:15:10- Wow. God, that smells so nice. - Yeah?- What do you recommend, then?
0:15:10 > 0:15:14Well, I was thinking, er... Hot dogs would be nice, yes.
0:15:14 > 0:15:16And what to drink with it, then?
0:15:16 > 0:15:19Er, typically, you would have a chocolate milk,
0:15:19 > 0:15:22- actually a cold chocolate milk. - That would be good?
0:15:22 > 0:15:24I had one too many beers maybe, last night?
0:15:24 > 0:15:26MARIE LAUGHS Chocolate milk will be fine.
0:15:26 > 0:15:29Yes, and it's a perfect hangover cure for you, I'm sure.
0:15:29 > 0:15:31- Hi.- Hi.- Hi.
0:15:31 > 0:15:35- Could...? Are you going to have one?- Yes.- Two hot dogs.
0:15:35 > 0:15:37- Two hot dogs. - Mm-hm, the classic ones.
0:15:37 > 0:15:40- What name can I write on the order? - Rick.- Rick.- Yes.
0:15:40 > 0:15:42RICK LAUGHS
0:15:42 > 0:15:46Hot dogs here go seriously over the top.
0:15:46 > 0:15:49A bit like their open sandwich, the smorrebrod.
0:15:49 > 0:15:51They'll never know when to stop.
0:15:53 > 0:15:54Stop there!
0:15:54 > 0:15:56Stop!
0:15:57 > 0:15:58Thank you.
0:15:59 > 0:16:02But I like mine simple and classic.
0:16:02 > 0:16:05A bit of mustard mayo, nicely sweet with a bit of a kick.
0:16:05 > 0:16:09Tomato sauce - well, it has to be, doesn't it, really?
0:16:09 > 0:16:10Fresh onion
0:16:10 > 0:16:13and then fried crunchy onions.
0:16:13 > 0:16:15No, not too many.
0:16:15 > 0:16:17Hold it.
0:16:18 > 0:16:19Perfect.
0:16:19 > 0:16:21Takke.
0:16:22 > 0:16:25- Right.- Nice.
0:16:25 > 0:16:27- And the weather's so good.- Mmm.
0:16:27 > 0:16:28Oh, my God.
0:16:28 > 0:16:29SHE CHUCKLES
0:16:29 > 0:16:31Yeah, this is the problem with hot dogs.
0:16:31 > 0:16:33They're lovely, though.
0:16:33 > 0:16:35- You would never eat this on a first date.- No.
0:16:37 > 0:16:38I've got to look after my shirt.
0:16:40 > 0:16:43Mmm, I don't think I'll eat any more at the moment.
0:16:43 > 0:16:47- I really want to talk about the food scene in Copenhagen.- Yes.
0:16:47 > 0:16:49Tell me how it is.
0:16:49 > 0:16:52Yes, I mean, it's changed tremendously
0:16:52 > 0:16:55during the last 10 or 15 years.
0:16:55 > 0:16:57I grew up in the countryside and
0:16:57 > 0:17:00no-one was really interested in food, basically.
0:17:00 > 0:17:03I mean, food was just gasoline, right?
0:17:03 > 0:17:05So and that has changed big-time.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08I remember it was always that thing, do you eat to live, or live to eat?
0:17:08 > 0:17:11- Yes, exactly.- People just ate to live, it's the same in the UK.
0:17:11 > 0:17:16- Yeah.- But this sort of place, imagine this 10 or 15 years ago.
0:17:16 > 0:17:19- That wouldn't happen. - It would have be a paper store.- Yes.
0:17:19 > 0:17:22At the time, you know, you would spend your money on,
0:17:22 > 0:17:26maybe just with travel, or go to the movies
0:17:26 > 0:17:28but you wouldn't use your money on food.
0:17:28 > 0:17:31Not, not the same way that you will today.
0:17:31 > 0:17:33So in that way it has changed.
0:17:33 > 0:17:37Actually, I did notice one thing, it's not very Danish the food here.
0:17:37 > 0:17:39No, that's true.
0:17:39 > 0:17:42- So what about Danish cooking?- Yes.
0:17:42 > 0:17:45I think the great thing about the whole Nordic Cuisine,
0:17:45 > 0:17:48the Nordic food movement is that it just...
0:17:48 > 0:17:52It like poured down all the layers of food, really.
0:17:52 > 0:17:56People are also, they are very much into home cookery as well,
0:17:56 > 0:17:59in a way that they didn't used to be,
0:17:59 > 0:18:03at least when I grew up or actually maybe 10 or 15 years ago.
0:18:03 > 0:18:07So that's the very good thing about this whole Nordic kitchen movement,
0:18:07 > 0:18:10is that it's for everyday people, as well.
0:18:13 > 0:18:17Well, I'm relieved to find that Denmark has a favourite dish.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21It's not about picking little things up in tweezers and putting them
0:18:21 > 0:18:25on a plate, it's something you can do at home, that I can do at home.
0:18:25 > 0:18:29Quite simply, it's fried belly pork with lovage,
0:18:29 > 0:18:32new potatoes and a parsley sauce
0:18:32 > 0:18:34and it's delicious.
0:18:38 > 0:18:43I must say when I was in Copenhagen and watching all those chefs
0:18:43 > 0:18:45doing all those intricate, little dishes,
0:18:45 > 0:18:48I sort of almost got to a state of despair.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51I thought I could never do anything like that.
0:18:51 > 0:18:52Then I discovered this dish.
0:18:52 > 0:18:57I actually had it and lovely, just fried pork,
0:18:57 > 0:19:00lovely new potatoes, parsley sauce
0:19:00 > 0:19:03and I discovered that actually in 2014
0:19:03 > 0:19:07it was voted Denmark's most favourite dish.
0:19:10 > 0:19:15Lard - up until recently it almost had to have a health warning
0:19:15 > 0:19:17but now those that know such things
0:19:17 > 0:19:21say it's not so bad for you after all.
0:19:21 > 0:19:23There we go.
0:19:23 > 0:19:25Lovely slices of belly pork.
0:19:25 > 0:19:27I just really like this dish.
0:19:27 > 0:19:30It's like something you might find in the UK
0:19:30 > 0:19:31but it's Danish.
0:19:31 > 0:19:33That little bit different,
0:19:33 > 0:19:35I don't know if we fry belly pork like that?
0:19:36 > 0:19:38The thing that I really liked about it was this,
0:19:38 > 0:19:40this is lovage.
0:19:40 > 0:19:42They boil the potatoes with lovage.
0:19:42 > 0:19:45It gives a slightly different flavour to your new potatoes.
0:19:45 > 0:19:47Sort of slightly parsley,
0:19:47 > 0:19:49slightly celery flavour
0:19:49 > 0:19:50but it's very pronounced.
0:19:50 > 0:19:54I occasionally use to write dishes for fish with lovage
0:19:54 > 0:19:55but only a tiny bit
0:19:55 > 0:19:57because it's really, really strong.
0:19:57 > 0:20:00In these potatoes, lovely. Lovely lovage.
0:20:05 > 0:20:08I must say that's very satisfying, lovely brown.
0:20:08 > 0:20:09It's looking so appetising.
0:20:09 > 0:20:12I mean, that's what really excites me, cooking.
0:20:12 > 0:20:15I don't think I'd be any good at making clam shells out of pastry,
0:20:15 > 0:20:19and painting them various shades to make them look like razor clams.
0:20:19 > 0:20:21I'd just be hopeless
0:20:21 > 0:20:23but this is what I like doing.
0:20:23 > 0:20:26Just get a bit more pepper on there.
0:20:29 > 0:20:32So now the parsley sauce, which is the easiest thing.
0:20:32 > 0:20:34First of all, some butter in a warm pan,
0:20:34 > 0:20:36stir that around.
0:20:36 > 0:20:38Then an equal quantity of flour.
0:20:38 > 0:20:40I like to cook this out now
0:20:40 > 0:20:42until the flour smells nutty.
0:20:43 > 0:20:45There we go.
0:20:45 > 0:20:47There's a nice nutty smell coming out from that.
0:20:47 > 0:20:51Now the milk, and I just add that in about three thirds
0:20:51 > 0:20:53and stirring all the time
0:20:53 > 0:20:56and, as the sauce thickens, then I add the next third.
0:20:57 > 0:20:58That's looking extremely nice
0:20:58 > 0:21:01but this is the really important bit to me,
0:21:01 > 0:21:05is I'm actually now going to use some of the potato water
0:21:05 > 0:21:06to thin that bechamel down
0:21:06 > 0:21:09and that's got the flavour of the lovage in it.
0:21:09 > 0:21:11Just look at that water.
0:21:11 > 0:21:14It's got a lovely green tinge to it, a beautiful flavour.
0:21:14 > 0:21:15You don't want too much lovage
0:21:15 > 0:21:19but a bit is really, really beguiling.
0:21:19 > 0:21:21So just let that cook down.
0:21:21 > 0:21:23That's lovely.
0:21:23 > 0:21:25Now just heaps and heaps of parsley.
0:21:25 > 0:21:26Just stir that in.
0:21:26 > 0:21:29Maybe a little bit more of the lovage water
0:21:29 > 0:21:30just to thin it down a bit.
0:21:30 > 0:21:32We're ready to serve up.
0:21:36 > 0:21:38Doesn't that pork look golden?
0:21:38 > 0:21:41And the potatoes with a hint of lovage,
0:21:41 > 0:21:43so Scandi,
0:21:43 > 0:21:45and finally the parsley sauce.
0:21:45 > 0:21:49I know it's not New Nordic but it's nice.
0:21:49 > 0:21:52Velbekomme as they say over there
0:21:52 > 0:21:54for bon appetit.
0:22:07 > 0:22:11It isn't just food that makes for a brilliant weekend.
0:22:11 > 0:22:14I know it's important but if it was solely that,
0:22:14 > 0:22:17I'd be pushed along in a wheelbarrow by the end of this series.
0:22:21 > 0:22:23Now may I recommend this gallery,
0:22:23 > 0:22:25it's called the Glyptotek.
0:22:25 > 0:22:28You won't be disappointed and just look at these sculptures
0:22:28 > 0:22:33from all over the ancient empires of the Mediterranean.
0:22:33 > 0:22:35And more modern stuff too.
0:22:35 > 0:22:37This is a Rodin
0:22:37 > 0:22:40and here is his most famous work, The Thinker.
0:22:42 > 0:22:43That's supposed to be the poet Dante
0:22:43 > 0:22:46pondering over his Divine Comedy.
0:22:49 > 0:22:52And this, this room is full of marbles
0:22:52 > 0:22:55so sensuous by the French sculptor, Marqueste.
0:22:57 > 0:23:00All this was the passion of a famous brewer,
0:23:00 > 0:23:02Carl Jacobsen.
0:23:02 > 0:23:04This is him here.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08And here. In his latter years, he's known to have sported
0:23:08 > 0:23:10a red rose between his teeth,
0:23:10 > 0:23:14saying it added to the beauty of his life.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17A flamboyant man, one might say.
0:23:17 > 0:23:18Money was no object.
0:23:18 > 0:23:20His pockets were very deep.
0:23:21 > 0:23:23This is just wonderful.
0:23:23 > 0:23:26You have got to come here on your weekend away.
0:23:26 > 0:23:28What I really love about it,
0:23:28 > 0:23:31it's about the power of a dynasty,
0:23:31 > 0:23:35about the power of a family brewing and selling beer.
0:23:35 > 0:23:37Probably, it says,
0:23:37 > 0:23:41the world's most famous beer, brewed by Danes.
0:23:45 > 0:23:49I'm pleased to say the beer legacy lives on
0:23:49 > 0:23:51in the latest architecture.
0:23:51 > 0:23:53Well, London's got its Gherkin,
0:23:53 > 0:23:55Paris has the Pompidou Centre
0:23:55 > 0:23:58and Copenhagen's got its six-pack!
0:24:00 > 0:24:02I like this restaurant.
0:24:02 > 0:24:04It's called Kadeau
0:24:04 > 0:24:08and it's run by a young chef, Nicolai Norregaard.
0:24:08 > 0:24:10And the thing is here,
0:24:10 > 0:24:14he was brought up on a small island called Bornholm.
0:24:14 > 0:24:17Each year in late spring, for a few weeks,
0:24:17 > 0:24:23he shuts up shop and goes home to collect leaves, buds,
0:24:23 > 0:24:25bark and flowers
0:24:25 > 0:24:29to give his food a distinct flavour of his homeland.
0:24:31 > 0:24:34It's just such a beautiful restaurant, Nicolai, first of all.
0:24:34 > 0:24:36I mean, I love the kitchen.
0:24:36 > 0:24:39I've never seen such a relaxed...
0:24:39 > 0:24:42What's the word in Danish for this sort of comfort?
0:24:42 > 0:24:45- Hygge.- Hygge.- Yeah.
0:24:45 > 0:24:46It's got bags of that.
0:24:46 > 0:24:49I'm just so taken with all these pickles.
0:24:49 > 0:24:52Why do you think it's so important to preserve nature
0:24:52 > 0:24:53in this sort of way?
0:24:53 > 0:24:55Why not just freeze everything?
0:24:55 > 0:24:57The winters here are very cold.
0:24:57 > 0:25:01We need to expand the library of tastes and stuff during the
0:25:01 > 0:25:05winter so that's one of the reasons why we pick away.
0:25:05 > 0:25:07How do your chefs respond to this?
0:25:07 > 0:25:09Most chefs just work in kitchens.
0:25:09 > 0:25:12How do they feel about going off to the island, Bornholm,
0:25:12 > 0:25:14and gathering stuff.
0:25:14 > 0:25:16- It must be so nice for them. - I hope so.
0:25:19 > 0:25:22Never have I been to such a calm kitchen.
0:25:22 > 0:25:26I think I'm in one of those arts and crafts classes where
0:25:26 > 0:25:28contentment abounds.
0:25:28 > 0:25:30Lots of cutting and gluing
0:25:30 > 0:25:33and shifting things around until they're just right.
0:25:38 > 0:25:40This is fascinating.
0:25:40 > 0:25:42I mean, gosh this is hard work.
0:25:42 > 0:25:44Imagine you've got a lot of customers.
0:25:44 > 0:25:47- It's very painstaking.- It is.
0:25:47 > 0:25:51It's a tart filled with caramelised whey
0:25:51 > 0:25:53and cowslip essence.
0:25:53 > 0:25:57That is so Little Grey Rabbit, really.
0:25:57 > 0:25:58It's sort of...
0:25:58 > 0:25:59Lovely.
0:25:59 > 0:26:02And these are the silver fir
0:26:02 > 0:26:05and again they're preserved in vinegar.
0:26:05 > 0:26:08Silver fir cut into little strips like this.
0:26:13 > 0:26:16And now the humble Savoy cabbage leaf
0:26:16 > 0:26:19takes centre stage.
0:26:19 > 0:26:21Blanched in stock of seaweed,
0:26:21 > 0:26:23wrapped around kale,
0:26:23 > 0:26:25radicchio and wild rocket,
0:26:25 > 0:26:29dunked for a few seconds into the seaweed broth
0:26:29 > 0:26:31and then oysters,
0:26:31 > 0:26:33sliced grilled oysters
0:26:33 > 0:26:35dressed with oyster vinaigrette
0:26:35 > 0:26:38with green strawberries, parsley and hemp.
0:26:38 > 0:26:41Hemp(?)
0:26:41 > 0:26:43And it's dusted with last year's pea flour.
0:26:43 > 0:26:45Pea flour(?)
0:26:45 > 0:26:46What else?
0:26:46 > 0:26:50And that's delicately put on an emulsion of oysters
0:26:50 > 0:26:53and that's just one course
0:26:53 > 0:26:54out of 20!
0:26:57 > 0:26:59Wow, look at that.
0:27:00 > 0:27:02- This is kale.- Kale and cabbage.
0:27:02 > 0:27:05A bit of wild rocket.
0:27:05 > 0:27:07Wild rocket and some herbs, cress.
0:27:07 > 0:27:09Delicious.
0:27:09 > 0:27:10We always tend to do this.
0:27:10 > 0:27:13We always like some combination,
0:27:13 > 0:27:15some sort of combination of oysters and kale and cabbage.
0:27:15 > 0:27:16Always.
0:27:16 > 0:27:18On the plane on the way over,
0:27:18 > 0:27:20there were these guys really, really looking forward
0:27:20 > 0:27:22to coming over to Copenhagen.
0:27:22 > 0:27:25They'd saved up their money, they're just coming to eat.
0:27:25 > 0:27:29People travelling to eat is getting very big.
0:27:29 > 0:27:32It's like the new fashion in some way.
0:27:32 > 0:27:34Chefs are, you know, the stars.
0:27:36 > 0:27:37I don't know why though, but...
0:27:37 > 0:27:39- You're a star.- No.- I mean, you are.
0:27:39 > 0:27:41- I mean, your kitchen's fabulous. - You are.
0:27:41 > 0:27:45No! I was just thinking, I'm a bit old
0:27:45 > 0:27:48and this sort of food, I'm late coming to it
0:27:48 > 0:27:50but to me it's a bit like painting.
0:27:50 > 0:27:52It's like you framed something.
0:27:52 > 0:27:55You framed an idea.
0:27:55 > 0:27:56I'm just going to have to redo...
0:27:56 > 0:27:57THEY CHUCKLE
0:27:57 > 0:28:00I'm just going to have to redo my whole life as a chef.
0:28:00 > 0:28:02A shame but...
0:28:02 > 0:28:04Times change. You know...
0:28:06 > 0:28:08I really liked talking to Nicolai.
0:28:08 > 0:28:11I just thought they really do capture those sort of
0:28:11 > 0:28:15fragrances and essences of Danish countryside.
0:28:15 > 0:28:17I was really impressed.
0:28:18 > 0:28:20You didn't actually feel you'd like a couple of lamb chops
0:28:20 > 0:28:23and maybe some mashed potato
0:28:23 > 0:28:25and some runner beans and some gravy?
0:28:25 > 0:28:27I see, I see.
0:28:27 > 0:28:30You stick to your beef and instant gravy
0:28:30 > 0:28:33and I'll go foraging for chefs.
0:28:34 > 0:28:37- Each to their own, I'd say. - Whatever!
0:28:37 > 0:28:38BIKE BELL RINGS
0:28:45 > 0:28:47When I first heard I was going to Copenhagen,
0:28:47 > 0:28:52my first thought was, of course, New Nordic Cuisine, followed very
0:28:52 > 0:28:57swiftly by the remote possibility of meeting the actress, Sofie Grabol.
0:28:58 > 0:29:00It was she who played the part of the detective,
0:29:00 > 0:29:04Sarah Lund in that fantastic series The Killing.
0:29:04 > 0:29:07She wore the same jumper for weeks on end.
0:29:07 > 0:29:09She never wore make-up.
0:29:09 > 0:29:12She put her work before anything.
0:29:12 > 0:29:17For me, she opened the door into what it was like to be Danish.
0:29:18 > 0:29:20So do you live around here, then?
0:29:20 > 0:29:22I live right around the corner.
0:29:22 > 0:29:26- Well...- I just walked over here cos my bike is flat.- Ah.
0:29:26 > 0:29:28And so lucky man that I am,
0:29:28 > 0:29:31I got to meet her in her favourite pub
0:29:31 > 0:29:34round the corner from where she lives.
0:29:34 > 0:29:36Haven't you been to Noma?
0:29:36 > 0:29:37- No.- Oh...
0:29:37 > 0:29:39- And you know what? - We can't get in.
0:29:39 > 0:29:42I look at it, it's right across from where I live.
0:29:42 > 0:29:44It's a lovely building.
0:29:46 > 0:29:50She ordered her usual, a non-alcoholic apple wine.
0:29:50 > 0:29:52I'm so overwhelmed by meeting her,
0:29:52 > 0:29:54I'll have whatever's going.
0:29:54 > 0:29:58- Do you want to sit here? - Yeah, why not?
0:29:58 > 0:30:01Thanks a lot for having a chat.
0:30:01 > 0:30:03You're welcome.
0:30:03 > 0:30:08I mean, I first came here 12 years ago and, to be honest,
0:30:08 > 0:30:12if you asked me then what was special about Denmark, I'd say,
0:30:12 > 0:30:15"Very nice butter, lots of bacon,
0:30:15 > 0:30:19"the Danish flag, which is very attractive,
0:30:19 > 0:30:22"and a very happy king and queen."
0:30:22 > 0:30:27But, since then, the place has completely changed
0:30:27 > 0:30:32and I think that's partly to do with you.
0:30:33 > 0:30:34Well, that was actually,
0:30:34 > 0:30:39that's what made me most proud of the success of The Killing
0:30:39 > 0:30:45in the UK, actually, was that first of all nobody had expected it
0:30:45 > 0:30:49to be received that warmly and not even the BBC.
0:30:49 > 0:30:52Obviously, I've been asked a lot by British people
0:30:52 > 0:30:56"Why did The Killing become such a success?"
0:30:56 > 0:30:59And, I don't really know.
0:30:59 > 0:31:03I think, first the audience just liked the story,
0:31:03 > 0:31:06they liked the whole universe of The Killing,
0:31:06 > 0:31:10but very quickly it became clear that they started noticing
0:31:10 > 0:31:15much more than the whodunnit story.
0:31:15 > 0:31:20They started to be interested in our furniture, our culture,
0:31:20 > 0:31:23our city, our language,
0:31:23 > 0:31:24our food.
0:31:24 > 0:31:29So, really it's to exchange stories like you do with television
0:31:29 > 0:31:34is really an exchange of culture.
0:31:34 > 0:31:38I think that is what was so good in The Killing and that's why it is,
0:31:38 > 0:31:41- although it was dark.- Mm.
0:31:41 > 0:31:44- And unpleasant.- Mm-hm.
0:31:44 > 0:31:47You kept seeing these little glimpses of another life,
0:31:47 > 0:31:50of a lovely street of houses,
0:31:50 > 0:31:52or an interior that you just thought,
0:31:52 > 0:31:55"Wow, that's good. That's good."
0:31:55 > 0:31:58Well, hearing all your praise of my country makes
0:31:58 > 0:32:01me very proud, and I think the Danes,
0:32:01 > 0:32:04we love when people praise our country
0:32:04 > 0:32:07because we're very proud of it but we won't let it show.
0:32:07 > 0:32:10I think the Danes, um...
0:32:11 > 0:32:13We like a flat structure.
0:32:13 > 0:32:16We like, we don't like people sticking out.
0:32:16 > 0:32:19As soon as someone has a high status, or something,
0:32:19 > 0:32:21we knock them down.
0:32:21 > 0:32:24Um, we have a law
0:32:24 > 0:32:26called Jante Law,
0:32:26 > 0:32:28which has like, er,
0:32:28 > 0:32:31I don't remember how many commands but the first one is
0:32:31 > 0:32:33don't think you're worth anything
0:32:33 > 0:32:35and then they just go on, and on.
0:32:35 > 0:32:37So we're not very, um...
0:32:38 > 0:32:40..flamboyant.
0:32:40 > 0:32:43I suppose that's like the Sarah Lund, really.
0:32:43 > 0:32:46- You know, not really...- Yeah. - ..doing the job.
0:32:46 > 0:32:49- She was quite understated, wasn't she?- She was.- Yeah.- Yes.
0:32:49 > 0:32:51Yeah.
0:32:58 > 0:33:01This rather non-descript area used to be
0:33:01 > 0:33:05the main meat-packing centre for Copenhagen.
0:33:05 > 0:33:10It was, as you can see from this very beefy '30s statue,
0:33:10 > 0:33:12meat writ large.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15Most of its former residents have now moved elsewhere,
0:33:15 > 0:33:17leaving lots of empty property,
0:33:17 > 0:33:20perfect for restaurants and bars,
0:33:20 > 0:33:24Especially with a slightly untidy, Bohemian look.
0:33:24 > 0:33:28A place where young, avant-garde diners will be jolly pleased
0:33:28 > 0:33:32to sit under fuse boxes, pipes and bare brick.
0:33:33 > 0:33:35Anders Selmer of Fiskebar
0:33:35 > 0:33:37was one of the first to open
0:33:37 > 0:33:40and his speciality, like mine, is fish.
0:33:40 > 0:33:44When we opened there was one fish restaurant.
0:33:44 > 0:33:46- It was kind of old, dusty. - Yeah.
0:33:46 > 0:33:48And sushi bars.
0:33:48 > 0:33:50There was nobody doing fish here.
0:33:50 > 0:33:52- There are still very few, actually. - How come?
0:33:52 > 0:33:55Well, I think we lost the tradition,
0:33:55 > 0:33:58we did lose the tradition of eating fish.
0:33:58 > 0:34:01I mean, the Vikings ate a lot of fish and we ate
0:34:01 > 0:34:04a lot of fish all the way through until the '50s, '60s
0:34:04 > 0:34:08when we started to do only convenience when we did food.
0:34:08 > 0:34:12We didn't want all the difficult parts.
0:34:12 > 0:34:15It difficult eating fish, it's got bones in it, you know?
0:34:15 > 0:34:19You have to do, you have to be, it's a delicate matter.
0:34:19 > 0:34:21You have to be precise. You have to know what you're doing.
0:34:21 > 0:34:24Mom and dad was going to work so, you know,
0:34:24 > 0:34:27there was no time for being careful and delicate.
0:34:27 > 0:34:29I think it's true in the UK,
0:34:29 > 0:34:32- people don't like bones, do they, for a start?- No.
0:34:32 > 0:34:35People don't like dealing with fish.
0:34:35 > 0:34:37It's not just the bones, it's the smell.
0:34:37 > 0:34:40- They say we don't like the smell of cooking fish.- Yeah.
0:34:40 > 0:34:44I love the smell of cooking fish. I love the smell of cooking herrings.
0:34:44 > 0:34:46- When it's fresh.- When it's fresh!
0:34:46 > 0:34:47- But it has to be fresh.- Absolutely.
0:34:47 > 0:34:50And that's the thing. Fish is not cheap.
0:34:50 > 0:34:53I mean it's not a cheap restaurant, but it's...
0:34:53 > 0:34:56That's what I can't... People say, because I have fish restaurants too.
0:34:56 > 0:34:58People say they're too expensive.
0:34:58 > 0:35:01- I say, "Have you seen the price of fish?"- Yeah.- That's the thing.
0:35:01 > 0:35:03We just make a modest profit.
0:35:03 > 0:35:05- And we do.- We do.
0:35:05 > 0:35:07- Or lose money.- And lose money, I know we lose money.
0:35:09 > 0:35:11BACKGROUND CHATTER
0:35:11 > 0:35:15Well, I must say, this piece of hake
0:35:15 > 0:35:18looks absolutely lovely.
0:35:18 > 0:35:23Honestly, that is a perfectly cooked
0:35:23 > 0:35:25fillet of hake.
0:35:25 > 0:35:28And here I'm told we have pine
0:35:28 > 0:35:32and horseradish emulsion,
0:35:32 > 0:35:34pickled cucumbers,
0:35:34 > 0:35:36Spanish chervil
0:35:36 > 0:35:37and asparagus.
0:35:40 > 0:35:42I mean, it's lovely.
0:35:42 > 0:35:44I mean, that is... I mean...
0:35:44 > 0:35:47I'm a simple soul.
0:35:47 > 0:35:50What I really like is a fillet of perfectly fresh fish,
0:35:50 > 0:35:53perfectly cooked and that's what I've got.
0:35:53 > 0:35:56I can only say that all the rest of the things
0:35:56 > 0:35:58make it taste even better.
0:35:58 > 0:36:00So...
0:36:00 > 0:36:03Again this is New Nordic food, but...
0:36:04 > 0:36:06..it suits me perfectly,
0:36:06 > 0:36:10because I've got a lovely fillet of fish!
0:36:16 > 0:36:17I like this area of town.
0:36:17 > 0:36:20It's not glamorous, it's not that expensive
0:36:20 > 0:36:24and the restaurants and bars are still trying really hard.
0:36:24 > 0:36:28It's the sort of place I wouldn't mind staying until,
0:36:28 > 0:36:31well, maybe the early hours, even at my age!
0:36:35 > 0:36:38Well, as soon as we said our goodbyes and gone to bed,
0:36:38 > 0:36:41someone decided to throw a party.
0:36:41 > 0:36:43How inconvenient!
0:36:43 > 0:36:46To sleep, or not to sleep, that is the question.
0:36:47 > 0:36:50I think it's coming from the Tivoli Gardens.
0:36:50 > 0:36:52I'm going there tomorrow.
0:36:52 > 0:36:54I feel like going there now.
0:36:54 > 0:36:56FIREWORKS BANG
0:37:03 > 0:37:05Bicycling to breakfast.
0:37:05 > 0:37:07What luxury!
0:37:07 > 0:37:09I must say, this is so Copenhagen.
0:37:09 > 0:37:13And this bakery is brilliant, one of the best here.
0:37:13 > 0:37:18And, naturally, they bake fabulous buttery Danish pastries,
0:37:18 > 0:37:23a great and much-loved delicacy invented by Viennese bakers
0:37:23 > 0:37:28who came to Copenhagen when most of the local bakers went on strike,
0:37:28 > 0:37:32and so they just baked the same way as they did in Vienna.
0:37:32 > 0:37:35Needless to say, the locals love the multilayers
0:37:35 > 0:37:39of caramelised pastry and they couldn't do without them,
0:37:39 > 0:37:40and neither can I.
0:37:46 > 0:37:48I was thinking of doing a little book called
0:37:48 > 0:37:51My Breakfasts Across The World because I love breakfast.
0:37:51 > 0:37:54It's got to be accompanied by a really good coffee and I'm
0:37:54 > 0:37:58thinking of breakfast in France where you get that high roast coffee
0:37:58 > 0:38:00and you have those lovely baguettes
0:38:00 > 0:38:04that cut into long slices with butter and apricot jam.
0:38:04 > 0:38:05Perfect.
0:38:05 > 0:38:09In Germany, you've got ham and you've got cheese and sometimes
0:38:09 > 0:38:13lovely coffee but people like a glass of champagne with it, as well.
0:38:13 > 0:38:15Here, it's got to be Danish.
0:38:15 > 0:38:17What I really like are the Danish pastries.
0:38:17 > 0:38:20Here they've got them so well done,
0:38:20 > 0:38:22The snail, the snegl.
0:38:22 > 0:38:25And their coffee is fragrant and soft
0:38:25 > 0:38:27and very, very Danish.
0:38:32 > 0:38:36It is my long weekend and although it's not connected to food,
0:38:36 > 0:38:40there's something I had to see.
0:38:40 > 0:38:43Many an Aussie friend has said, "If you're in Copenhagen, Ricky,
0:38:43 > 0:38:45"you've got to go there."
0:38:45 > 0:38:48So a few miles out of the city,
0:38:48 > 0:38:50there's a church. Wow!
0:38:50 > 0:38:51Bagsvaerd Kirke.
0:38:51 > 0:38:53It was designed by Jorn Utzon,
0:38:53 > 0:38:56the man who created the Sydney Opera House,
0:38:56 > 0:38:59I think my favourite building.
0:38:59 > 0:39:02But Utzon had a particularly bad time from many a local critic
0:39:02 > 0:39:06down under and so, being an enormous fan of
0:39:06 > 0:39:08Sydney's fabulous Opera House,
0:39:08 > 0:39:10I just had to come here.
0:39:11 > 0:39:14Well, I didn't know what to expect.
0:39:14 > 0:39:18I know this was built straight after Utzon built the Opera House
0:39:18 > 0:39:21in Sydney, which I know so and love so well
0:39:21 > 0:39:24but this is unbelievable.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27I mean, to me, this is what Danish design is all about.
0:39:27 > 0:39:30Simple, all built out of concrete,
0:39:30 > 0:39:32lovely wooden pews.
0:39:32 > 0:39:34It's just...
0:39:34 > 0:39:36It actually makes you feel quite spiritual
0:39:36 > 0:39:38and yet it's so modern.
0:39:38 > 0:39:43When I think of all the trouble that he had building the Opera House.
0:39:43 > 0:39:45I mean, apart from anything,
0:39:45 > 0:39:47nobody could build the shells
0:39:47 > 0:39:51but also loads of people disliked it.
0:39:51 > 0:39:54But, he was lying on a beach when he was coming back
0:39:54 > 0:39:56from all that in Hawaii.
0:39:56 > 0:39:59He looked up at the sky and saw these clouds
0:39:59 > 0:40:02and that's the inspiration for this ceiling.
0:40:02 > 0:40:06You can imagine him sitting here in one of these beautiful pews
0:40:06 > 0:40:09and saying, "At least I've done something right."
0:40:20 > 0:40:21This is the Red Cottage.
0:40:21 > 0:40:23It's quite famous,
0:40:23 > 0:40:26and it's only about 20 minutes from Copenhagen.
0:40:26 > 0:40:29It sounds a little bit like the start of a
0:40:29 > 0:40:31Hans Christian Andersen fairy story.
0:40:31 > 0:40:36A little cottage set in a wood, not far from the sea.
0:40:36 > 0:40:39And it's run by Anita Klemensen,
0:40:39 > 0:40:43Copenhagen's only Michelin-starred female chef,
0:40:43 > 0:40:46and her fellow chef, Lars Thomsen.
0:40:47 > 0:40:49So what are we looking for?
0:40:49 > 0:40:53A herb that tastes a bit like cucumber and seawater, oysters.
0:40:53 > 0:40:55Yeah?
0:40:55 > 0:40:58- So you want this one?- Oh, no, you do it.- Yeah, yeah.- OK.- It's fine.
0:40:58 > 0:41:02- So you take it... - You take the small top ones.- OK.
0:41:03 > 0:41:05- If you want to taste one of them? - Yeah, I would.
0:41:05 > 0:41:07The small ones are quite good.
0:41:09 > 0:41:11- Do you like it?- Mm.
0:41:11 > 0:41:14I'll tell you what, it takes a bit like cucumber,
0:41:14 > 0:41:16but actually to me it's also a bit like borage.
0:41:16 > 0:41:18You know the little blue flowers that you put in Pimms?
0:41:18 > 0:41:20Yeah.
0:41:20 > 0:41:23We're going to have it together with a roast and because you have
0:41:23 > 0:41:25the very sweet and very heavy taste of the roast,
0:41:25 > 0:41:28it's quite nice with something more structured and bitter.
0:41:28 > 0:41:30This seems like a lovely thing to do, Anita.
0:41:30 > 0:41:31What does it mean to you?
0:41:31 > 0:41:33- Having the restaurant? - It means a lot.- Yeah?
0:41:33 > 0:41:35That's why we came all the way out here, actually.
0:41:35 > 0:41:38We had a restaurant in the city before and this is just, you know...
0:41:38 > 0:41:41It makes more sense to go every day and pick the herbs.
0:41:41 > 0:41:44Of course, we have some of the things that we know are in season,
0:41:44 > 0:41:47so we know that we can use the herb.
0:41:47 > 0:41:49Yeah, every day we know that we can use the onion cress and
0:41:49 > 0:41:52a lot of other stuff, but every day we find something new and we
0:41:52 > 0:41:55will put that into one of the dishes.
0:41:55 > 0:41:58How do you know you're not going to get poisoned?
0:41:58 > 0:42:00- We've tried it before. - Oh, you've tried it before?
0:42:00 > 0:42:02- Let me try a big leaf. - It's a bit more bitter.- Oh, God.
0:42:02 > 0:42:05I pulled the whole thing up by the roots. Very, er...
0:42:07 > 0:42:11Mm. That's really nice. And what would you have this with, then?
0:42:11 > 0:42:14Right now, we serve it with lightly salted scallops and seaweed,
0:42:14 > 0:42:18- rosehip, some different things from the beach.- From the shore.
0:42:18 > 0:42:21- And the shore, yeah. - So it all matches?- Yeah, exactly.
0:42:26 > 0:42:29I'll go up to the bushes here for the rosehip leaves.
0:42:29 > 0:42:31- So wild roses.- Yeah.
0:42:31 > 0:42:32Wild roses. That's the rosehip.
0:42:33 > 0:42:36So is it normal to use the wild herbs in the UK, or...?
0:42:36 > 0:42:40Erm, yeah, we do a bit. I suspect we got the idea from you.
0:42:42 > 0:42:44- What would you do with this, then? - We'll pickle the whole leaf.
0:42:44 > 0:42:46Such a nice smell. We have them in white as well.
0:42:46 > 0:42:49They're a bit more heavy in the smell, actually.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51- They're just over here.- That's good. I'll put them in my box.
0:42:51 > 0:42:54- I haven't got much there. - OK, you can have them.- Thank you.
0:42:54 > 0:42:56It's probably because they're wild.
0:42:56 > 0:42:59- They've just got such a beautiful fragrance.- Yeah.
0:42:59 > 0:43:02- And I think they get even more intense when you pickle them.- Yeah?
0:43:04 > 0:43:08Now for a really good lesson in new Nordic cuisine.
0:43:08 > 0:43:13Anita serves crispy rye bread adorned with oyster mayonnaise
0:43:13 > 0:43:18with smoked oil gel from the juice of pickled strawberries,
0:43:18 > 0:43:22and now pickled green strawberries,
0:43:22 > 0:43:25pickled green tomatoes,
0:43:25 > 0:43:29ramson berries - these are pickled too -
0:43:29 > 0:43:32ramson leaves,
0:43:32 > 0:43:34onion cress,
0:43:34 > 0:43:36ramson flowers,
0:43:36 > 0:43:40hay ash - yes, hay ash,
0:43:40 > 0:43:43the ash from burnt hay -
0:43:43 > 0:43:47and a poached egg underneath the rye bread.
0:43:47 > 0:43:51Again, another perfect example of this new cuisine.
0:43:54 > 0:43:57Well, I had this really funny thought, to me,
0:43:57 > 0:44:00when I was watching this being made.
0:44:00 > 0:44:03If I'm not confused, I haven't been concentrating enough,
0:44:03 > 0:44:06because there's so many things going on there.
0:44:06 > 0:44:09But what I was thinking was the emollient effect
0:44:09 > 0:44:11of that poached egg,
0:44:11 > 0:44:15the yolk just glistening around everything, and it's really good.
0:44:15 > 0:44:17It's really well thought through
0:44:17 > 0:44:23because you've got the green strawberries, the green tomatoes...
0:44:23 > 0:44:25And I really like the smoky mayonnaise.
0:44:25 > 0:44:28They make that by burning hay and mixing it into
0:44:28 > 0:44:33a mayo and you've just such lovely, smoky tone in this.
0:44:33 > 0:44:34You've got the tartness,
0:44:34 > 0:44:38you've got that lovely sort of lusciousness from the egg yolk
0:44:38 > 0:44:42and a bit of smoke as well, and a bit of texture from the rye bread.
0:44:42 > 0:44:45It's really, really good fun. I mean...
0:44:46 > 0:44:49I sort of wish I could do stuff like this, but you know...
0:44:49 > 0:44:52It's just a little bit too complicated
0:44:52 > 0:44:54for an old geezer like me.
0:44:57 > 0:44:58It's a nice building, that.
0:44:58 > 0:45:02- Sort of looks like a bit of a lager can, really.- Special Brew?
0:45:02 > 0:45:03'My son Jack, who's also a chef,
0:45:03 > 0:45:06'happened to be here for a wedding this weekend.
0:45:06 > 0:45:09'And so I thought it'd be a great idea to go to the
0:45:09 > 0:45:12'Tivoli Gardens together.'
0:45:12 > 0:45:16FANFARE PLAYS
0:45:16 > 0:45:20'I had planned to go on my own, but father and son together,
0:45:20 > 0:45:24'the sort of thing he'd run a mile from ten years ago.
0:45:30 > 0:45:33'People say I eat too much on these long weekends.
0:45:33 > 0:45:34'I must watch that.
0:45:37 > 0:45:42'I love this place. I immediately sense what it's all about.
0:45:42 > 0:45:46'Old-fashioned family values that haven't changed very much
0:45:46 > 0:45:49'since its creation 170 years ago.
0:45:51 > 0:45:53'The main reason I came here was to have
0:45:53 > 0:45:56'a ride on this wonderful old rollercoaster.
0:45:56 > 0:46:02'It's made of wood and it rattles and it creaks and it groans.'
0:46:02 > 0:46:05RATTLING
0:46:05 > 0:46:07Do you like rollercoasters?
0:46:07 > 0:46:11I don't think I've been on one quite as wooden as this one before.
0:46:11 > 0:46:13- Well, it's been here a long time. - Yeah.
0:46:14 > 0:46:17Here we go. Do you think this bit's going to be all right?
0:46:17 > 0:46:19Yeah, we'll be fine.
0:46:19 > 0:46:21SCREAMING
0:46:22 > 0:46:25LAUGHTER
0:46:30 > 0:46:31You can't help but scream!
0:46:34 > 0:46:37LAUGHTER
0:46:37 > 0:46:38It even has a brakeman.
0:46:38 > 0:46:41Just imagine leaving school here and becoming
0:46:41 > 0:46:44a trainee brakeman at Tivoli.
0:46:44 > 0:46:46Gosh, what kudos.
0:46:46 > 0:46:49Better than being a centre forward or even a chef.
0:46:58 > 0:47:00'Hand on heart, that was so exciting.
0:47:00 > 0:47:03'That'll go to the top of my long weekends.
0:47:03 > 0:47:05'It's an absolute must in Copenhagen.'
0:47:05 > 0:47:07I've got such a big grin on my face.
0:47:11 > 0:47:13You can imagine, you know, Walt Disney coming here in the '50s,
0:47:13 > 0:47:17when he was thinking of building the first Disneyland,
0:47:17 > 0:47:19- he would have been enchanted by this.- Yeah.
0:47:19 > 0:47:20Funnily enough, I do think
0:47:20 > 0:47:23Disneyland's got a sort of element of...
0:47:23 > 0:47:26of this, this sort of fairy-tale kingdom.
0:47:26 > 0:47:28I think you'd find that as well in the cooking as well,
0:47:28 > 0:47:29that they kind of...
0:47:29 > 0:47:32They sort of invoke the sort of Scandinavian sort of, you know,
0:47:32 > 0:47:36mythology of kind of old methods of preservation and you can...
0:47:36 > 0:47:38You know, and they've all got beards.
0:47:38 > 0:47:41- They all look like Vikings, you know. It's so funny...- So do you.
0:47:41 > 0:47:43Yeah, I know. It's so funny that, you know,
0:47:43 > 0:47:4620 years ago in a French-style kitchen, you would never think
0:47:46 > 0:47:50of any chef having a beard or any facial hair and now in sort
0:47:50 > 0:47:54of Scandinavia it's sort of like a standard issue.
0:47:54 > 0:47:55Well, enough of this chat.
0:47:55 > 0:47:58I think we ought to go and find one of your lovely restaurants to
0:47:58 > 0:48:01- have something lovely to eat. - Fantastic. Can't wait.
0:48:02 > 0:48:06'This is Danish Sunday lunch, big time.
0:48:06 > 0:48:08'This restaurant is called Groften's.
0:48:08 > 0:48:11'It's an institution here at Tivoli Gardens.
0:48:11 > 0:48:15'It serves traditional Danish food. The usual suspects.
0:48:15 > 0:48:19'Not a sea buckthorn or a beach dandelion in sight.
0:48:20 > 0:48:25'However, it serves fried breaded plaice,
0:48:25 > 0:48:27'steak tartare -
0:48:27 > 0:48:29'I love steak tartare with capers -
0:48:29 > 0:48:31'raw herring -
0:48:31 > 0:48:34'now, I could eat that all day long -
0:48:34 > 0:48:37'gravlax - love it with rye bread -
0:48:37 > 0:48:42'prawns in mayonnaise - well, yes, obviously -
0:48:42 > 0:48:45'a sort of old-fashioned hash with sausage in it -
0:48:45 > 0:48:47'not entirely my cup of tea -
0:48:47 > 0:48:49'and their pride and joy,
0:48:49 > 0:48:51'fish balls.'
0:48:51 > 0:48:54They're really interesting, these fish balls.
0:48:54 > 0:48:57They're sort of much more close-textured than ours,
0:48:57 > 0:48:58our fish balls, don't you think?
0:48:58 > 0:49:00- A bouncy texture, isn't it? - Yeah, yeah, yeah.
0:49:00 > 0:49:02Like a Thai fishcake.
0:49:02 > 0:49:04Yeah, but lots of fish in them.
0:49:04 > 0:49:07I think what's nice is that this is like Sunday lunch, isn't it?
0:49:07 > 0:49:10Yeah, it's a very different restaurant to anything I've
0:49:10 > 0:49:14ever seen in Copenhagen. Everyone's happy. It's sort of Denmark in...
0:49:14 > 0:49:17The microcosm of Danish culture just in one room.
0:49:18 > 0:49:21I'm told that Groften's in the Tivoli Gardens
0:49:21 > 0:49:24is the biggest restaurant in Denmark.
0:49:24 > 0:49:27It's really old-fashioned, but I loved it.
0:49:27 > 0:49:31Very colourful and friendly, but their biggest selling dish is
0:49:31 > 0:49:33fricadelle, fish fricadelle,
0:49:33 > 0:49:36that fish-fishcakes with remoulade sauce.
0:49:40 > 0:49:43I must say, that's a lovely bit of cod to go into these fish balls,
0:49:43 > 0:49:46although I think we'd probably call them fishcakes.
0:49:46 > 0:49:48There we go.
0:49:48 > 0:49:51Now, I'm unfortunately having to use a food processor.
0:49:51 > 0:49:53I love chopping things by hand, but...
0:49:53 > 0:49:57You know, there were days when a food processor was revolutionary.
0:49:57 > 0:50:01Now, it's, "Ooh, it's a bit boring." So some cream in there.
0:50:01 > 0:50:03And now some flour.
0:50:03 > 0:50:06I'm told that the secret of a good fishcake, fish ball, is not
0:50:06 > 0:50:10too much flour, so there's not too much flour there, and now an egg.
0:50:10 > 0:50:13Just one egg.
0:50:13 > 0:50:16And finally, some pepper, and I'm using white pepper here
0:50:16 > 0:50:20because I really like the flavour of white pepper in a fishcake.
0:50:20 > 0:50:24I'll generally go for black, but this time white. And then some salt.
0:50:24 > 0:50:26About a teaspoon of salt. That's not too much.
0:50:26 > 0:50:28You need plenty of seasoning in these.
0:50:28 > 0:50:30Otherwise, they taste a bit bland.
0:50:30 > 0:50:32So here we go.
0:50:37 > 0:50:41Good. There we go. Look at that. Now turn that into a bowl.
0:50:42 > 0:50:44This dish is really old.
0:50:44 > 0:50:47It was first recorded in the 1700s,
0:50:47 > 0:50:51and I think it's like many other countries, it's poor people's food.
0:50:51 > 0:50:53The idea, of course,
0:50:53 > 0:50:59is you used fish with flour to make the fish go a lot further.
0:51:01 > 0:51:04'Now, dill. Very Nordic.
0:51:06 > 0:51:07'Lemon zest. Not very Nordic.
0:51:09 > 0:51:11'Capers. Love 'em.
0:51:13 > 0:51:15'And now mud pies.'
0:51:17 > 0:51:20What I like about these fishcakes is they're not deep-fried as
0:51:20 > 0:51:23most are. They're shallow fried,
0:51:23 > 0:51:25just in a bit of butter, and it's just how my mother always
0:51:25 > 0:51:28used to make fishcakes when I was little.
0:51:28 > 0:51:32They never look so neat and tidy if they're shallow fried,
0:51:32 > 0:51:35but they look more sort of rugged and more appetising.
0:51:38 > 0:51:39I do like cooking in butter.
0:51:39 > 0:51:42You have to be very careful cos it burns so easily,
0:51:42 > 0:51:45but the smell of hot butter!
0:51:45 > 0:51:48I often think, you know, with steaks, they're always char-grilled,
0:51:48 > 0:51:52but actually if you cook a steak in butter, it tastes so much nicer.
0:51:52 > 0:51:55And certainly these are going to taste good. Look at that.
0:52:03 > 0:52:07Well, this is the remoulade sauce that goes with the fishcakes,
0:52:07 > 0:52:10and actually it is all about the remoulade sauce.
0:52:10 > 0:52:12First of all, some cream in there.
0:52:12 > 0:52:15Just whipping that a little to just get it stiff.
0:52:15 > 0:52:17And next, some chopped gherkins.
0:52:17 > 0:52:19Now, there's a lot of ingredients in this remoulade.
0:52:19 > 0:52:23The traditional French ones have got about a third of them, but I had to
0:52:23 > 0:52:27get them all in because it is such an important dish to the
0:52:27 > 0:52:31Danish that I just didn't want to leave any stages out.
0:52:31 > 0:52:35Next, chopped capers, chopped chives. There we go.
0:52:37 > 0:52:40Next and very important, curry powder.
0:52:40 > 0:52:44They use it more as a condiment than as a sort of curry flavour,
0:52:44 > 0:52:46just about a teaspoon of curry powder.
0:52:46 > 0:52:51Now, chopped onion. A lot of very finely chopped onion. In that goes.
0:52:51 > 0:52:56French mustard now, a good heaped teaspoon of French mustard.
0:52:56 > 0:53:00And now tarragon, and I do think that's important in there.
0:53:00 > 0:53:04They love tarragon. The Danes and the Icelanders love tarragon.
0:53:04 > 0:53:06Fresh tarragon in there.
0:53:06 > 0:53:11Wow, this is a lot. Lemon juice, in it goes, and finally, mayonnaise.
0:53:16 > 0:53:19Now just whip that all up together and a little taste.
0:53:21 > 0:53:22Well...
0:53:23 > 0:53:27..I would have said maybe one or two many notes, Mr Mozart,
0:53:27 > 0:53:29but I'm sort of thinking,
0:53:29 > 0:53:32if you're a new Nordic chef about a hundred years ago,
0:53:32 > 0:53:36you would have made a remoulade and it goes back to the 1700s
0:53:36 > 0:53:38like this, because you could.
0:53:40 > 0:53:42Now, to serve up.
0:53:42 > 0:53:44Well, my mother would have lined them up one by one,
0:53:44 > 0:53:47separately on the plate.
0:53:47 > 0:53:51But us chefy blokes like to see a nice tilt, like so.
0:53:52 > 0:53:56And now for the remoulade. And voila!
0:53:56 > 0:53:58It's really good.
0:54:05 > 0:54:06'It's my last day.
0:54:06 > 0:54:09'Goodbye, trusty hire bike.
0:54:10 > 0:54:14'Incidentally, I should have put my hand out when I want to stop.
0:54:14 > 0:54:16'Sorry about that.
0:54:18 > 0:54:22'I've really enjoyed my foray into new Nordic cuisine.
0:54:22 > 0:54:26'But I'm looking for a balance between the new and the old.
0:54:26 > 0:54:30'Something classic that I recognise, maybe with a Danish twist.
0:54:33 > 0:54:35'And this is Gammel Mont,
0:54:35 > 0:54:40'an old-fashioned restaurant run by Claus Christensen.
0:54:40 > 0:54:45'He's about to cook my favourite fish of all time, turbot.
0:54:45 > 0:54:48'He seasons the fish with sea salt,
0:54:48 > 0:54:51'and then makes sure it's covered with milk.
0:54:51 > 0:54:56'He squeezes lemon juice into it, some black pepper, and that'll
0:54:56 > 0:55:01'take about, I reckon, 17 minutes until it's moist and yielding.'
0:55:04 > 0:55:07So this is very much the sort of food I like.
0:55:07 > 0:55:11Maybe it's something to do with my age, Claus,
0:55:11 > 0:55:13but the new Nordic, did you think that...?
0:55:13 > 0:55:16- Does that work for you, all that...? - It doesn't work for me.
0:55:16 > 0:55:20You know, they use stuff like this and stuff like that,
0:55:20 > 0:55:24but they are innovative and creative,
0:55:24 > 0:55:28but sometimes I think they forget to make food.
0:55:29 > 0:55:31It's more like art.
0:55:31 > 0:55:34Yeah, yeah, absolutely, you know, lots of flowers, lots of herbs,
0:55:34 > 0:55:36but nothing inside.
0:55:36 > 0:55:41But I guess it's just young people wanting to sort of kick
0:55:41 > 0:55:45the old geezers out. Like, you know, this.
0:55:45 > 0:55:48Yeah, but they have to, they have to kick us out.
0:55:48 > 0:55:53I'm an old man in this branch, and when I was young,
0:55:53 > 0:55:59I tried to bite the old man from behind as they do now.
0:55:59 > 0:56:02They just put us away, saying, "We're much better than you."
0:56:02 > 0:56:04And we say, "Yes, you are."
0:56:04 > 0:56:08As long as we can make and prepare our food in our own way.
0:56:08 > 0:56:11Well, I think in my view, I remember when I was a youngster,
0:56:11 > 0:56:13I once had a dish on with...
0:56:13 > 0:56:15Fish cooked three different ways -
0:56:15 > 0:56:17three different fish, three different ways,
0:56:17 > 0:56:18three different sauces.
0:56:18 > 0:56:22- Yeah, yeah.- And now I look back and I say, "What was I on?"
0:56:22 > 0:56:23Yeah, because you couldn't taste anything.
0:56:23 > 0:56:25You couldn't taste anything.
0:56:25 > 0:56:28Tiny kitchen, just me and a couple of chefs trying to knock this
0:56:28 > 0:56:31sort of stuff out, and that's one of the other things.
0:56:31 > 0:56:32I mean, to put all those little...
0:56:32 > 0:56:35To get the tweezers going everywhere, it's a lot of work.
0:56:35 > 0:56:38- Yeah, yeah, yeah.- But in time they'll learn.- Yeah, yeah.
0:56:38 > 0:56:42But I like it. And the young chefs are rock stars.
0:56:45 > 0:56:48'Well, this looks right up my street.
0:56:48 > 0:56:52'I was beginning to think about the emperor's new clothes
0:56:52 > 0:56:54'when it came to new Nordic cuisine.
0:56:54 > 0:56:58'But I just feel, looking at this turbot and the cabbage,
0:56:58 > 0:57:04'like I've just found the most perfect shirt and trousers.
0:57:04 > 0:57:06'This'll do me fine.
0:57:09 > 0:57:11'Call me old-fashioned, call me what you like,
0:57:11 > 0:57:16'Nordic cuisine, I suspect, is here for a very long time to come.
0:57:16 > 0:57:21'And so is turbot, cabbage and butter sauce.'
0:57:23 > 0:57:24Oh!
0:57:24 > 0:57:26This is just lovely.
0:57:26 > 0:57:30The lemon butter, the beautifully fresh turbot, the cabbage,
0:57:30 > 0:57:33When people say to me, "What are my favourite fish?"
0:57:33 > 0:57:37I say, "Turbot, sole, sole, turbot", either way. King and queen.
0:57:37 > 0:57:41- People...- Astonishing good health there.- Thank you.
0:57:41 > 0:57:44- Unbelievably lovely food. - Thank you.- I'm back. I'm home.
0:57:48 > 0:57:49'So that's it.
0:57:49 > 0:57:54'Well, what do I think about the new Nordic style of cooking?
0:57:54 > 0:57:56'For a start, it's made an enormous difference
0:57:56 > 0:57:59'to the food landscape here.
0:57:59 > 0:58:02'And more so to the coffers of the Danish economy.
0:58:02 > 0:58:05'And it's also made me think, as a restaurateur,
0:58:05 > 0:58:08'about keeping things local.
0:58:08 > 0:58:12'Mind you, I couldn't work without lemons or olive oil.
0:58:14 > 0:58:18'All I'd say is that if you like something new and challenging
0:58:18 > 0:58:23'over a long weekend, you couldn't find a better place.'
0:58:23 > 0:58:24# Hey, Rick
0:58:24 > 0:58:28# Where we going next weekend?
0:58:28 > 0:58:32# Are we flying a few hours away?
0:58:32 > 0:58:35# For some delicious food they say
0:58:35 > 0:58:39# We can try dishes and aroma or Barcelona
0:58:39 > 0:58:43# For something more exotic though the spices of Morocco
0:58:43 > 0:58:47# Yes, you can take your pick
0:58:47 > 0:58:49# And even break the ice in Reykjavik
0:58:50 > 0:58:52# So, Rick, make the booking
0:58:52 > 0:58:54# Let's get cooking
0:58:54 > 0:58:58# And get those taste buds going next weekend. #