0:00:02 > 0:00:05A change is as good as a rest, they say.
0:00:05 > 0:00:12So, a long weekend not too far away and not obvious like Paris or Rome.
0:00:12 > 0:00:16A place where I can take in some local history, a bit of culture,
0:00:16 > 0:00:20but of course it's the food that will always be the key.
0:00:20 > 0:00:24So, if you like serious rice dishes with seafood,
0:00:24 > 0:00:30mooching around old cities and great bars and maybe having a swim,
0:00:30 > 0:00:32then this could be for you.
0:00:32 > 0:00:37# Hey, Rick, where we going this weekend? #
0:00:37 > 0:00:38Cadiz.
0:00:40 > 0:00:43# Are we flying a few hours away
0:00:43 > 0:00:46# For some delicious food, they say?
0:00:46 > 0:00:49# So, Rick, make a booking
0:00:49 > 0:00:51# And let's get cooking
0:00:51 > 0:00:55# And get those taste buds going this weekend. #
0:01:07 > 0:01:12"Like a scimitar curved on the bay and sparkling with African light" -
0:01:12 > 0:01:15that's how Laurie Lee described Cadiz.
0:01:15 > 0:01:18I have been here before and I really, really think that's
0:01:18 > 0:01:22a fantastic description, because it is a low city and
0:01:22 > 0:01:26beautifully situated low on the Atlantic Ocean,
0:01:26 > 0:01:28especially in this summer weather.
0:01:28 > 0:01:32But really what I am looking forward to is another
0:01:32 > 0:01:37glass of cold Manzanilla, the sherry from Sanlucar de Barrameda,
0:01:37 > 0:01:40just up the coast, and plenty of fish and shellfish.
0:01:41 > 0:01:43That's what is bringing me back.
0:01:43 > 0:01:46Nobody cooks seafood better than the Spanish.
0:01:48 > 0:01:53I like hotels like this, stylish but not luxurious.
0:01:53 > 0:01:56A place for holidays, not business.
0:01:56 > 0:01:59And this is where mostly the Spanish come on holidays.
0:02:00 > 0:02:03Oh, this is nice. Very summery, Spanish-style.
0:02:07 > 0:02:10Hello, I've got a room for a few days, the name's Stein.
0:02:10 > 0:02:12OK, I need your passport, please.
0:02:12 > 0:02:14- OK, there you go.- Thank you.
0:02:16 > 0:02:17Staying on holiday?
0:02:17 > 0:02:22No, no, we're making a film for the BBC about Cadiz, about the food,
0:02:22 > 0:02:25and the sherry and all that sort of thing in Cadiz.
0:02:25 > 0:02:29OK. Do you know special plates of Cadiz?
0:02:29 > 0:02:31No, no. What do you recommend?
0:02:31 > 0:02:34I recommend you tortuguita de camarones.
0:02:34 > 0:02:38- Ah, little shrimp fritters? - Yes.- OK. And what else?
0:02:38 > 0:02:39Pescadito frito.
0:02:39 > 0:02:42Just fried little fish? Mwah!
0:02:42 > 0:02:44I've had them before.
0:02:44 > 0:02:47What a nice introduction to the local gastronomy!
0:02:47 > 0:02:51For me, it makes all the difference to have someone to talk to about
0:02:51 > 0:02:57the local food - not about towels for the pool or hire cars, but food!
0:03:02 > 0:03:04Ah, this is very nice.
0:03:04 > 0:03:07Very, very sunny.
0:03:09 > 0:03:10Brilliant.
0:03:12 > 0:03:13Look at that.
0:03:13 > 0:03:15I love the Atlantic.
0:03:15 > 0:03:17Nice little bit of surf.
0:03:18 > 0:03:23Beautiful, lovely and warm - but a bit of a dilemma here.
0:03:23 > 0:03:26Do I go for a walk on the beach? Do I go for a swim?
0:03:26 > 0:03:28Or do I go for a beer?
0:03:29 > 0:03:30- CREW:- Beer!
0:03:31 > 0:03:32Yeah.
0:03:42 > 0:03:45Gosh, it is nice to be back in Spain.
0:03:45 > 0:03:47Look at that. I mean, I just feel so relaxed.
0:03:47 > 0:03:51I've been quite a lot of time in northern climes, watching the work
0:03:51 > 0:03:56of cutting-edge chefs and being impressed or a bit confused,
0:03:56 > 0:03:59but here, I know exactly what I'm going to eat,
0:03:59 > 0:04:02I know exactly what I'm going to drink and I feel so relaxed.
0:04:06 > 0:04:10I chose Cadiz simply by realising that not too many
0:04:10 > 0:04:14British holiday-makers come here - and they should.
0:04:15 > 0:04:18It's a bit difficult to get to, though, unless it's in the height
0:04:18 > 0:04:23of summer, when you can fly to Jerez, about half an hour away.
0:04:23 > 0:04:27But once you are here, it's a complete revelation,
0:04:27 > 0:04:29I really think so.
0:04:33 > 0:04:37I love this bar. I was here about a year ago
0:04:37 > 0:04:41and I just remember it as being so wonderfully Spanish.
0:04:41 > 0:04:45Well, what a stupid thing to say, but it is called El Manteca -
0:04:45 > 0:04:46"the house of lard".
0:04:46 > 0:04:51And talking of lard, here is some lovely pork belly, cured pork belly,
0:04:51 > 0:04:55Chicharrones with lemon and pimenton, cumin seeds,
0:04:55 > 0:04:58olive oil and garlic and a few fennel seeds, too.
0:04:58 > 0:05:01Then left to go cold and thinly sliced.
0:05:01 > 0:05:05I just love the way they send it out on grease-proof paper.
0:05:05 > 0:05:08Very sensible. None of your fancy crockery here.
0:05:10 > 0:05:13Fabulous! It tastes of Cadiz to me.
0:05:13 > 0:05:15And, also, white anchovies.
0:05:15 > 0:05:17Done locally, of course.
0:05:18 > 0:05:20Just cured in lemon juice or vinegar.
0:05:20 > 0:05:21WOMAN GRUNTS LOUDLY
0:05:21 > 0:05:22Bloody hell!
0:05:28 > 0:05:32'I'm told this is how one of the regulars greets new customers
0:05:32 > 0:05:34'to Casa Manteca.
0:05:34 > 0:05:35'Frightened the life out of me!
0:05:36 > 0:05:40'But all good bars I know have their odd little quirks.'
0:05:42 > 0:05:46The other thing I love about this bar, which is probably a bit non-PC,
0:05:46 > 0:05:50is it's full of pictures of matadors. And I remember, when I was
0:05:50 > 0:05:53a teenager, coming to Spain to Seville and a bit later going
0:05:53 > 0:05:57to Mexico and making myself go to bullfights.
0:05:57 > 0:06:01These days, no, it's like being a smoker.
0:06:01 > 0:06:06But, I still like the company of people that still smoke
0:06:06 > 0:06:08and it's the same with this.
0:06:08 > 0:06:14It is a bygone era of male machoness that I like rather a lot.
0:06:23 > 0:06:28I couldn't help but think I was on a small island where, in a week or so,
0:06:28 > 0:06:31I'd know every bar and every restaurant in town.
0:06:39 > 0:06:40Now, this is right up my street.
0:06:40 > 0:06:44It's lovely eating outside in the warm air.
0:06:44 > 0:06:46I think it's one of life's great pleasures.
0:06:48 > 0:06:53This is grilled mackerel with pirinaca, the most simple salad of
0:06:53 > 0:06:58tomato, green peppers, red peppers, onion and olive oil.
0:06:58 > 0:07:01And basically, this is what Spain is all about, what the Spanish
0:07:01 > 0:07:03are all about with seafood.
0:07:03 > 0:07:05Keep it really simple.
0:07:05 > 0:07:09In northern Spain, in Galicia, if you have a big crab,
0:07:09 > 0:07:15it arrives just boiled in seawater. No lemon, no mayonnaise,
0:07:15 > 0:07:19because they just say, if it is that good, you need nothing else with it.
0:07:19 > 0:07:21And it's a bit like this with the mackerel.
0:07:21 > 0:07:25Because what else do you need with a perfectly fresh mackerel like this?
0:07:25 > 0:07:30Just a little bit of chopped tomato, green and red pepper and onion -
0:07:30 > 0:07:34and that is it. That is perfection, and it just makes you realise,
0:07:34 > 0:07:37it just brings back how great this mackerel is.
0:07:42 > 0:07:46This is one of the reasons I run a restaurant, because a really good
0:07:46 > 0:07:49time in a restaurant with a loved one creates a memory
0:07:49 > 0:07:51that never goes away.
0:07:52 > 0:07:56"Do you remember the time we had those really fresh grilled mackerel
0:07:56 > 0:08:00"and drank sangria in that little backstreet in Cadiz
0:08:00 > 0:08:02"and we lost our way home?"
0:08:28 > 0:08:31Cadiz is one of the oldest cities in Europe.
0:08:31 > 0:08:34It was founded by those trading masters of the sea,
0:08:34 > 0:08:38those very clever and resourceful Phoenicians, who came from the
0:08:38 > 0:08:40eastern Mediterranean.
0:08:40 > 0:08:45There's a poem from school that I love, it's by John Masefield.
0:08:45 > 0:08:48I used to think it was all about the Phoenician trading ships,
0:08:48 > 0:08:51but it might well have been the Romans - they were here, too.
0:08:51 > 0:08:54It fits a place like Cadiz.
0:08:54 > 0:08:58"Quinquireme of Nineveh from distant Ophir,
0:08:58 > 0:09:01"Rowing home to haven in sunny Palestine,
0:09:01 > 0:09:03"With a cargo of ivory,
0:09:03 > 0:09:05"And apes and peacocks,
0:09:05 > 0:09:09"Sandalwood, cedarwood, and sweet white wine."
0:09:19 > 0:09:23I've just discovered in Cadiz the perfect breakfast.
0:09:23 > 0:09:24It's a cafe con leche,
0:09:24 > 0:09:28a plate of churros, which is like a dough, deep-fried,
0:09:28 > 0:09:32and a spicy cup of hot chocolate that's just got cinnamon in it.
0:09:34 > 0:09:37I just sort of think this is what Cadiz is about on a
0:09:37 > 0:09:41breakfast morning, but, when I'm back in England, I like to think,
0:09:41 > 0:09:45"Oh, yeah, I would love a churros," but I never get round to it.
0:09:45 > 0:09:46I'm always doing things like that,
0:09:46 > 0:09:51bringing, sort of, ouzo from Greece or pastis from the Mediterranean
0:09:51 > 0:09:56and I've got a cupboard full of bottles which I never, ever drink.
0:09:57 > 0:09:58So true.
0:09:58 > 0:10:03Over here, they're delicious, but back in Padstow at 8am,
0:10:03 > 0:10:08what on earth are you doing eating doughnuts and chocolate
0:10:08 > 0:10:09at this hour?!
0:10:13 > 0:10:17I don't know what you feel about eating snails, but I do like them,
0:10:17 > 0:10:22of course. But what I like about this stand is you have your snails,
0:10:22 > 0:10:25your big ones and little ones and they're both the same price,
0:10:25 > 0:10:28about 3 euros for a kilo, but you've got everything to cook
0:10:28 > 0:10:32with the snails - garlic, bay leaves, some thyme-like herbs and
0:10:32 > 0:10:34I was asking about these blackberries or tayberries,
0:10:34 > 0:10:37but they cook them with those as well.
0:10:37 > 0:10:39So, this is everything, this is snail central.
0:10:52 > 0:10:55Every time I'm in a wonderful fish market like this, I think it's
0:10:55 > 0:10:57about time I gave all this up.
0:10:57 > 0:11:01I honestly think I've been in more fish markets as a chef
0:11:01 > 0:11:04than anybody else possibly in this world.
0:11:04 > 0:11:06So what can I say?
0:11:06 > 0:11:11Well, I can still come to a fish market like this one in Cadiz
0:11:11 > 0:11:13and just get incredibly excited.
0:11:13 > 0:11:19I've been watching these palourdes, carpet shell clams, spitting at me.
0:11:19 > 0:11:23They've been selling so fast. Those mussels from Galicia,
0:11:23 > 0:11:26we've got these mantis shrimp, just so fresh.
0:11:26 > 0:11:31Even these winkles are walking around, like a whole load of snails.
0:11:31 > 0:11:34And these, I've only just had these. They're called murex.
0:11:34 > 0:11:38And - ah - razor clams, I love them.
0:11:38 > 0:11:42As a chef, this is inspirational for me.
0:11:45 > 0:11:47VENDOR SPEAKS SPANISH
0:11:47 > 0:11:49It's a moray eel, very good eating.
0:11:53 > 0:11:56The Romans, if a slave wasn't doing his work properly,
0:11:56 > 0:12:00he'd be thrown into a lake full of moray eels and eaten to death.
0:12:07 > 0:12:09If I was going to buy anything here to cook,
0:12:09 > 0:12:12then it would have to be this.
0:12:12 > 0:12:15This seriously fresh, deep-red, juicy tuna.
0:12:16 > 0:12:19They catch it coming into the Med from the Atlantic in May and June
0:12:19 > 0:12:22when the tuna are still full of fat.
0:12:22 > 0:12:26I was cheered to be told this fishery is sustainable.
0:12:28 > 0:12:31It looks more like a butcher's shop than a fish shop.
0:12:34 > 0:12:35Oh, so good!
0:12:37 > 0:12:41It's too early for lunch and I can't think of anything better
0:12:41 > 0:12:44than this for a real treat.
0:12:44 > 0:12:48A very special elevenses tuna sashimi.
0:12:48 > 0:12:50Three different cuts,
0:12:50 > 0:12:52the palest and tastiest being the belly.
0:12:55 > 0:12:57This is what the Japanese really revere.
0:12:57 > 0:13:01This is the belly. It's the most expensive part, full of fat.
0:13:04 > 0:13:06Lovely texture, lovely creamy taste to it.
0:13:09 > 0:13:14You won't get better tuna than this in the Tsukiji market in Japan.
0:13:14 > 0:13:19When I first saw that there was a Japanese sushi store here
0:13:19 > 0:13:23in the market, I thought, "This is crazy. Why do Japanese food?"
0:13:23 > 0:13:26But I started to think, if you think of the two greatest fish-loving
0:13:26 > 0:13:30nations on Earth, it's the Japanese and Spanish,
0:13:30 > 0:13:32so it's an absolute match.
0:13:32 > 0:13:34And now it seems perfectly normal
0:13:34 > 0:13:38and, actually, this is the best way - bar none - to eat tuna,
0:13:38 > 0:13:41but I've just had a sip of this Manzanilla...
0:13:43 > 0:13:45..and do you know what? It tastes a bit like sake to me.
0:13:45 > 0:13:50It's got that same sort of fragrance and it just goes so well with this.
0:13:50 > 0:13:53So, I'm absolutely in tuna heaven.
0:13:55 > 0:13:56BELL TOLLS
0:14:01 > 0:14:05But, I think I can hear what you're saying, and that is,
0:14:05 > 0:14:08"I'm not going all the way to Cadiz to eat sushi.
0:14:08 > 0:14:13"I want the real deal, a traditional Andalusian lunch.
0:14:13 > 0:14:18And it's a great place just to mooch around following your nose.
0:14:23 > 0:14:28This is the place in Cadiz famous for pescado frito,
0:14:28 > 0:14:30simple, fried fish.
0:14:30 > 0:14:33It's always packed lunch times.
0:14:33 > 0:14:35The Italians call it frito misto.
0:14:35 > 0:14:39I think this must be one of the oldest dishes in the world.
0:14:39 > 0:14:42If you go back thousands of years, they had olive oil,
0:14:42 > 0:14:45flour and salt and fish aplenty.
0:14:45 > 0:14:47I think this is the secret
0:14:47 > 0:14:51of the miracle of the loaves and fishes feeding the 5,000.
0:14:52 > 0:14:55To me, though, this is the food of holidays.
0:15:05 > 0:15:08This place is famous for its quickly fried fish.
0:15:08 > 0:15:11I suppose it's the Spanish version of fish and chips.
0:15:11 > 0:15:15It's frying on a big scale. Big fryers, lots of flour.
0:15:15 > 0:15:18Special, grainy flour for fish like this.
0:15:18 > 0:15:21So, this is from the market this morning, of course.
0:15:21 > 0:15:25First of all, I've got some dogfish, cazon,
0:15:25 > 0:15:28with a spicy batter. There's a lot of cumin in there.
0:15:28 > 0:15:32It's really almost Indian in its spicing.
0:15:32 > 0:15:36Next, I've got boquerones, those are little anchovies, again, just fried.
0:15:38 > 0:15:40Boquerones, chipirones.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43These are little, tiny squid and, like the boquerones,
0:15:43 > 0:15:44the whole thing is fried.
0:15:46 > 0:15:51And actually - excuse me speaking with my mouth full -
0:15:51 > 0:15:53you can eat the whole of a squid
0:15:53 > 0:15:56except for the little quill in it, which you can't taste in those
0:15:56 > 0:15:58because they are so small.
0:15:58 > 0:16:00A lovely lunch, nice cold glass of wine...
0:16:00 > 0:16:02What more could you ask for?
0:16:09 > 0:16:12This would be one of my top five dishes in the whole series.
0:16:12 > 0:16:18It's simple, it's colourful and it is a perfect way to cook sea bream,
0:16:18 > 0:16:19dorade.
0:16:19 > 0:16:24The locals call it dorade a la Rota.
0:16:24 > 0:16:27So, I'm just slicing some potatoes and dropping them into my lovely
0:16:27 > 0:16:30circular roasting dish, which I brought back from Greece.
0:16:30 > 0:16:31So, in they go.
0:16:33 > 0:16:38Lots of sea salt and plenty of pepper and plenty of olive oil.
0:16:40 > 0:16:42You have to cook the potatoes first before you add the fish,
0:16:42 > 0:16:46otherwise they don't get cooked or the fish gets overcooked.
0:16:46 > 0:16:49Great local dish from Rota, just near Cadiz.
0:16:49 > 0:16:51I really liked it when I had it.
0:16:51 > 0:16:56I particularly like the flavours of tomato, green pepper and sherry.
0:16:56 > 0:16:57Really made the dish.
0:17:01 > 0:17:05So, those go into a medium-to-hot oven for about 15 minutes.
0:17:05 > 0:17:08The right amount of time to do what's next.
0:17:08 > 0:17:11Well, that's olive oil into a hot pan
0:17:11 > 0:17:14followed by sliced onions and green peppers.
0:17:14 > 0:17:16This is the basis of the sauce.
0:17:18 > 0:17:23Now, peeled and sliced tomatoes and just let that soften down.
0:17:23 > 0:17:26As I said, if you cook this all together,
0:17:26 > 0:17:29the sauce would be fantastic,
0:17:29 > 0:17:31but the fish would be a burnt nightmare.
0:17:33 > 0:17:35That's beginning to smell really nice.
0:17:35 > 0:17:38I love the smell and taste of cooked peppers.
0:17:38 > 0:17:43Not so keen on raw ones, actually. Er, capsicums, that's what I mean.
0:17:43 > 0:17:44And a bay leaf, now.
0:17:44 > 0:17:49Some water, that's to make a bit of sauce, and some salt and pepper.
0:17:49 > 0:17:51About ten turns of the peppermill, I think.
0:17:54 > 0:17:55There we go.
0:17:57 > 0:18:00And I'm just going to put a lid on to this and leave it to cook
0:18:00 > 0:18:02for about ten to 15 minutes.
0:18:04 > 0:18:06Remembering to turn the heat down.
0:18:09 > 0:18:13So, I've got garlic, parsley and rough sea salt in there.
0:18:13 > 0:18:15I'm just pounding that together.
0:18:15 > 0:18:20The Spanish call this preparation a picada and quite often they'll use
0:18:20 > 0:18:24dried bread or nuts in it as well, lots of garlic, lots of olive oil.
0:18:24 > 0:18:28The point is, you add it to a sauce or a dish just before the final
0:18:28 > 0:18:32cooking and it just gives the dish a bit of thickness, the sauce,
0:18:32 > 0:18:34and a burst of flavour.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37I think the potatoes are probably done now.
0:18:37 > 0:18:39Yeah, they're looking good.
0:18:39 > 0:18:43So, I will put my fish on top of those.
0:18:44 > 0:18:45There we go.
0:18:45 > 0:18:48So, a quick season of the fish both inside and out,
0:18:48 > 0:18:51and lay them in my nice round roasting tray.
0:18:51 > 0:18:55And now the picada, that parsley, garlic and salt paste.
0:18:55 > 0:18:59Just put that on top of the fish. That looks really nice.
0:18:59 > 0:19:03For those with sharp eyes and expensive television sets,
0:19:03 > 0:19:07the bream has been de-scaled, so it's lost its silvery sheen.
0:19:07 > 0:19:09But it'll taste really good.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15And now the sauce and that's cooked down really well.
0:19:15 > 0:19:17It's smelling so lovely.
0:19:17 > 0:19:20Just put that all around and a bit on top.
0:19:22 > 0:19:26And now the juice of half a lemon, all over.
0:19:27 > 0:19:29Now, the most important bit.
0:19:29 > 0:19:33Sherry, about 60ml of oloroso sherry.
0:19:33 > 0:19:35Beautiful smell, there.
0:19:37 > 0:19:39A bit more olive oil.
0:19:39 > 0:19:42Just a tad more water, the sauce looks a little bit dry.
0:19:43 > 0:19:45And now straight into the oven with that.
0:19:57 > 0:19:59It's amazing, cos baked fish dishes like this,
0:19:59 > 0:20:02everybody loves, and yet you don't get them any more.
0:20:02 > 0:20:05Everybody's too busy char-grilling everything.
0:20:05 > 0:20:08Everybody wants that charcoal flavour, but, actually,
0:20:08 > 0:20:12a lovely moist, baked, whole fish, you can't beat it.
0:20:26 > 0:20:29I reckon, on a long weekend here,
0:20:29 > 0:20:33you've got to go to the sherry triangle.
0:20:33 > 0:20:37Very close, the towns of Sanlucar de Barrameda,
0:20:37 > 0:20:41El Puerto de Santa Maria, and, of course, Jerez,
0:20:41 > 0:20:43where the name sherry comes from.
0:20:43 > 0:20:45I love sherry.
0:20:46 > 0:20:52From my very first timid sip one far-off Christmas many years ago,
0:20:52 > 0:20:53it's part of me.
0:20:55 > 0:20:58Of course, there are many bodegas here - they're places where
0:20:58 > 0:21:00they age the sherry for years.
0:21:01 > 0:21:03Salud!
0:21:03 > 0:21:07This, Bodegas Tradicion, came to my attention through a friend,
0:21:07 > 0:21:13who said it's run by a brilliant chap called Lorenzo Garcia-Iglesias.
0:21:13 > 0:21:16My friend said, "If a bottle of sherry could talk,
0:21:16 > 0:21:18"it would be Lorenzo."
0:21:18 > 0:21:21It is such a lovely space here. It's so, sort of, erm...
0:21:22 > 0:21:23..almost holy.
0:21:23 > 0:21:26Yeah, well, we call this the Cathedral of Sherry.
0:21:26 > 0:21:28We have these environments,
0:21:28 > 0:21:31specific environments where we need to talk quiet.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33I don't feel like raising my voice.
0:21:33 > 0:21:37No, actually the wine doesn't like much noise,
0:21:37 > 0:21:43but this misty environment is necessary for the health of the
0:21:43 > 0:21:46yeast that covers the wine.
0:21:46 > 0:21:50The fino sherry is distilled wine and also the windows
0:21:50 > 0:21:53we keep open, so the breeze from the sea comes in
0:21:53 > 0:21:58and that brings also in the salinity that you taste in the wine
0:21:58 > 0:22:01that makes it very specific and very personal.
0:22:01 > 0:22:04Very typical from Cadiz, no sugar at all.
0:22:04 > 0:22:06No residual sugar, it's very dry. Very dry.
0:22:06 > 0:22:08The way you are talking about it now...
0:22:10 > 0:22:13..I could hardly say I'm dry, but I am feeling...
0:22:13 > 0:22:16Actually, the time is about... Yeah, the Pope has drunk already.
0:22:16 > 0:22:18- The Pope has?- Yeah, at 12.- At 12?
0:22:18 > 0:22:22- He drinks at 12. So, it's 12.20, I think we can have a glass.- OK.
0:22:22 > 0:22:23- Or two.- Two.
0:22:23 > 0:22:25Two, all right!
0:22:25 > 0:22:27DOOR CREAKS
0:22:27 > 0:22:28SHUTS HEAVILY
0:22:34 > 0:22:37I'm going to introduce you to Pepe, Pepe Blandino, our foreman.
0:22:37 > 0:22:38So, this is the way we taste wine.
0:22:38 > 0:22:41Wow! Look at the skill of that.
0:22:41 > 0:22:43Yeah, it's the first time he does this!
0:22:43 > 0:22:44LAUGHTER
0:22:46 > 0:22:50Well, Pepe's been in the wine trade in Cadiz for 53 years already.
0:22:50 > 0:22:54- Good Lord.- So, he is an expert doing this.
0:22:55 > 0:23:00And it is a way of getting the air in the wine so you get that aromas.
0:23:01 > 0:23:04You know, to freshen up the wine.
0:23:04 > 0:23:08So, this is palo cortado from us.
0:23:08 > 0:23:10- Cheers. Thank you, Pepe. - Thank you.
0:23:11 > 0:23:15This is palo cortado from Bodegas Tradicion,
0:23:15 > 0:23:18and it is a wine over 30 years of age, very, erm...
0:23:18 > 0:23:21- It tastes that it's over 30 years of age.- Yeah.
0:23:21 > 0:23:25It's nutty, it's terribly complex.
0:23:25 > 0:23:29Every time I taste it, I taste something, sort of, more to it.
0:23:29 > 0:23:30Yeah, it's quite a tricky wine.
0:23:30 > 0:23:36On the nose, you get that caramel aroma, but also, it's fish market.
0:23:36 > 0:23:39- But when you put it on your palate, the sweetness is gone...- Yeah.
0:23:39 > 0:23:42- ..and the fish market comes alive, so you have...- Fish market?
0:23:42 > 0:23:44Yeah, all the seafood.
0:23:44 > 0:23:50I can perceive the barnacles and clams and oysters and seaweed
0:23:50 > 0:23:55that makes it so, erm, fantastic and fabulous.
0:23:55 > 0:23:58Lorenzo, I hope you don't mind me saying this, but if I was thinking
0:23:58 > 0:24:02of getting an actor to be the face of sherry,
0:24:02 > 0:24:05or, indeed, the King of Spain,
0:24:05 > 0:24:07- it would be you! - Thank you, thank you very much.
0:24:07 > 0:24:09No king of anywhere but...
0:24:09 > 0:24:11You just look the part.
0:24:11 > 0:24:12..I just love it, and...
0:24:12 > 0:24:13- Do you love your sherry?- Oh, yeah.
0:24:13 > 0:24:19I do it with passion because I enjoy introducing friends to
0:24:19 > 0:24:21and converting people to sherry.
0:24:21 > 0:24:24So, it's a wine to enjoy, enjoy with food.
0:24:24 > 0:24:25I agree, I agree!
0:24:27 > 0:24:29On the way into the bodegas,
0:24:29 > 0:24:32I noticed a couple of tiles on the wall
0:24:32 > 0:24:34that looked like early Picassos.
0:24:34 > 0:24:36And, of course, they were.
0:24:36 > 0:24:40Lorenzo is as passionate about Spanish artists
0:24:40 > 0:24:41as he is about sherry.
0:24:42 > 0:24:44- Two Goyas.- Two Goyas, back there.
0:24:46 > 0:24:50I have to say, I felt quite a bit out of my depth here.
0:24:50 > 0:24:52I'm a cook, not an art historian,
0:24:52 > 0:24:56and I'm surrounded by all these paintings in a gallery next
0:24:56 > 0:25:00to barrels of fino and amontillado.
0:25:00 > 0:25:02It just gets better and better.
0:25:02 > 0:25:08We try to show all the Spanish art movements from the 14th to the
0:25:08 > 0:25:1219th century, so it is a family investment that we have here,
0:25:12 > 0:25:16you know, as a value-added asset for the visitors
0:25:16 > 0:25:17that come and visit here.
0:25:17 > 0:25:20So, it's something unique for the wineries.
0:25:20 > 0:25:22Just have a look at that one. Is that... Are those...?
0:25:22 > 0:25:27Well, this is Joaquin Serolla. It's very, erm, Hispanic painting.
0:25:27 > 0:25:31And this, specifically, is Extremadura, where the pata negra,
0:25:31 > 0:25:33the black pig, is drawn.
0:25:33 > 0:25:36He is a prospect of good ham.
0:25:36 > 0:25:39- A prospect of good...- Extremadura, prospect of the ham.
0:25:39 > 0:25:40And this?
0:25:40 > 0:25:44He's the guy who's guarding the neighbourhood.
0:25:44 > 0:25:46It's kind of, you know, he's looking for a fight, actually.
0:25:46 > 0:25:49He certainly looks as though he is. Is that a knife in his...
0:25:49 > 0:25:50Yeah, that's a knife.
0:25:52 > 0:25:55Looking at him, you can tell that he can rob you very easily.
0:25:55 > 0:25:57- I would not want to go near him.- No.
0:25:57 > 0:26:01That's from a painter from Sevilla, he's called Jimenez Aranda.
0:26:01 > 0:26:03Gosh.
0:26:03 > 0:26:05And over here, you've got a Velazquez?
0:26:05 > 0:26:10It's called El Almuerzo, the lunch, and it's a young Velazquez
0:26:10 > 0:26:13and there is another copy of it in El Prado museum in Madrid
0:26:13 > 0:26:15and another one in the Louvre in Paris.
0:26:15 > 0:26:17We've got onions...
0:26:17 > 0:26:18Yeah, we got onions...
0:26:18 > 0:26:20..pomegranate, some bread.
0:26:20 > 0:26:22And the fish, difficult to tell.
0:26:22 > 0:26:25- I don't know what it is. - Looks like it is cured.
0:26:25 > 0:26:26Yeah. Not sure what it is.
0:26:26 > 0:26:28What's that in his hand?
0:26:28 > 0:26:31Well, he's eating his radish, I think, and what is in the glass,
0:26:31 > 0:26:33we always hope, is sherry.
0:26:33 > 0:26:34Of course it is!
0:26:37 > 0:26:38So, El Greco.
0:26:38 > 0:26:39Yeah, this is El Greco.
0:26:41 > 0:26:44And it is very deep painting.
0:26:44 > 0:26:47He lived in Spain most of his life and...
0:26:48 > 0:26:50So this is an original El Greco?
0:26:50 > 0:26:53- Yeah, of course. It is original. - Of course.
0:26:53 > 0:26:55Of course. Like everything here.
0:26:55 > 0:26:56We are all originals.
0:26:56 > 0:26:59And you see the depth.
0:26:59 > 0:27:02So skinny and so pale,
0:27:02 > 0:27:05the guy looks like he's almost dead.
0:27:05 > 0:27:10So, you see the symbolism of life, safe on top of the death,
0:27:10 > 0:27:13which is the crucifix and the skull
0:27:13 > 0:27:19and is everything relying on the Bible, so it's a Catholic vision
0:27:19 > 0:27:20of life and death.
0:27:20 > 0:27:25And the technique used by El Greco was far ahead of
0:27:25 > 0:27:27the people from his generation.
0:27:27 > 0:27:29I think it is a masterpiece.
0:27:29 > 0:27:32You can buy half of Andalusia with what you have got in here.
0:27:32 > 0:27:36Yeah, but if we have half of Andalusia, we can't fit it in
0:27:36 > 0:27:38this warehouse, you know.
0:27:38 > 0:27:43This is a wine cellar, as it was in the past, and now is holding
0:27:43 > 0:27:46- these paintings.- Oh, this is lovely. This is...- I'm happy you like it.
0:27:46 > 0:27:49Well, this is art on a human scale.
0:27:49 > 0:27:51The Louvre is too big.
0:27:51 > 0:27:53This is what I like.
0:28:06 > 0:28:10I always say, in essence, these programmes - my long weekends -
0:28:10 > 0:28:15are about food, but this ancient city is quite lovely,
0:28:15 > 0:28:18sharing an evening sky with Africa.
0:28:20 > 0:28:23To me, this is one of the most romantic sights
0:28:23 > 0:28:25I've seen on my travels so far.
0:28:25 > 0:28:27And on my balcony,
0:28:27 > 0:28:31sipping a cold and very agreeable glass of albarino,
0:28:31 > 0:28:35sometimes you've just got to pinch yourself.
0:28:48 > 0:28:50When you're a certain age,
0:28:50 > 0:28:54I suggest reading glasses are essential to enjoy
0:28:54 > 0:28:56the hotel's buffet breakfast.
0:28:56 > 0:28:59One wrong move and you'll get a dollop of chocolate
0:28:59 > 0:29:02in your cafe con leche.
0:29:02 > 0:29:05I don't seem to have much luck in the machine department.
0:29:06 > 0:29:09And calling all electrical engineers, tell me,
0:29:09 > 0:29:12is there a toaster that toasts bread
0:29:12 > 0:29:15till it's golden brown in a minute or so?
0:29:15 > 0:29:19A toaster that doesn't tease you by having to have half a dozen goes
0:29:19 > 0:29:22before you can see a change in colour,
0:29:22 > 0:29:25before you eventually give up and have muesli instead?
0:29:30 > 0:29:32But actually, I really like this hotel.
0:29:33 > 0:29:36The staff are very nice, it's very well run
0:29:36 > 0:29:39and I like the other people, they're very, sort of, everyday.
0:29:39 > 0:29:41It's the sort of place I'd sort of think, "Yeah, that's good.
0:29:41 > 0:29:43"It's right on the beach. I'll be back."
0:29:52 > 0:29:54The city walls are worth a look.
0:29:54 > 0:29:56In the old days, they would be bristling with cannon
0:29:56 > 0:29:58and loads of troops.
0:29:58 > 0:30:03Even Napoleon couldn't break the city, although he tried very hard,
0:30:03 > 0:30:05holding it siege for two and a half years.
0:30:08 > 0:30:12Beyond these walls is the old town with the precious ships,
0:30:12 > 0:30:15the arsenals and the warehouses.
0:30:15 > 0:30:18It's been described as an overcrowded ghetto,
0:30:18 > 0:30:22virtually surrounded by the sea on three sides.
0:30:25 > 0:30:26The writer, Laurie Lee,
0:30:26 > 0:30:30came here just before the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s.
0:30:30 > 0:30:32In his lovely book,
0:30:32 > 0:30:34As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning,
0:30:34 > 0:30:35he said this...
0:30:37 > 0:30:40"I seem to meet up with no-one in Cadiz
0:30:40 > 0:30:43"except the blind and the crippled, the diseased,
0:30:43 > 0:30:48"the deaf and dumb, whose condition was so hopeless
0:30:48 > 0:30:50"they scarcely bothered to complain,
0:30:50 > 0:30:54"but treated it all as a twisted joke.
0:30:55 > 0:30:58"They told me tittering tales of others
0:30:58 > 0:31:00"even more wretched than themselves,
0:31:00 > 0:31:03"the homeless who lived in the Arab drains,
0:31:03 > 0:31:07"who lay down at night amongst the rats and excrement
0:31:07 > 0:31:11"and were washed out to sea twice a year by the floods.
0:31:11 > 0:31:13"They told me of families
0:31:13 > 0:31:16"who scraped the tavern floors for shellfish
0:31:16 > 0:31:18"and took it home to boil for soup."
0:31:20 > 0:31:21Crikey!
0:31:24 > 0:31:27I was just mooching around this cathedral
0:31:27 > 0:31:29and noticed some of the building blocks.
0:31:29 > 0:31:31It's like they've just been cut
0:31:31 > 0:31:33straight out of the rock on the seashore
0:31:33 > 0:31:37because if you look, there's just lots of shells in there.
0:31:37 > 0:31:41Oysters, clamshells, almejas, I know that word.
0:31:41 > 0:31:45Limpets. I mean, it's like a cathedral of the sea.
0:31:45 > 0:31:47A seafood cathedral, if you like.
0:31:49 > 0:31:50I am a romantic.
0:31:50 > 0:31:55I was convinced these two old trees came from the Americas,
0:31:55 > 0:31:59along with the gold, the chocolate and the topazes.
0:31:59 > 0:32:01What stories they could tell.
0:32:01 > 0:32:04I thought they were as old as the days when most of the Western world
0:32:04 > 0:32:09considered potatoes poisonous and as for the tomatoes,
0:32:09 > 0:32:10the fruit of the devil.
0:32:10 > 0:32:15But actually, they're only 100 years old and came from Australia.
0:32:15 > 0:32:17Oh, well. You can't win them all.
0:32:19 > 0:32:22This is one of the latest tapas bars here,
0:32:22 > 0:32:25and they've gone out of their way to attract young people.
0:32:25 > 0:32:28It's minimalist, for sure.
0:32:28 > 0:32:31No bulls' heads staring down at you and no pictures of toreadors,
0:32:31 > 0:32:36but the dishes are still very much what I would call traditional.
0:32:36 > 0:32:40The chef is Pancho Jimenez Yanez.
0:32:40 > 0:32:42Today we have three kinds of stews.
0:32:42 > 0:32:46The recipe of my mum, my grandmum as well.
0:32:46 > 0:32:50Always, the chorizo in the top, it's the flavour.
0:32:50 > 0:32:54- OK.- Next.- Second one is similar but the chorizo
0:32:54 > 0:32:59is spicy, chorizo criollo, and we use sherry
0:32:59 > 0:33:02and it's chickpeas with red beans
0:33:02 > 0:33:06and the red beans, they give a different flavour. All right?
0:33:06 > 0:33:08OK. That looks lovely.
0:33:08 > 0:33:09And we have the last one,
0:33:09 > 0:33:12this is really good, typical for the fishermen.
0:33:12 > 0:33:15Stew with potatoes, dogfish.
0:33:15 > 0:33:18- Dogfish?- Dogfish? What's that in Spanish?
0:33:18 > 0:33:21- Cazon.- Cazon.- It's typical in this zone.
0:33:21 > 0:33:25And as well as coming with a little bit of the belly of the tuna.
0:33:25 > 0:33:28We make it with sherry.
0:33:28 > 0:33:31- Really nice.- Aw. Fabulous.
0:33:31 > 0:33:34Gosh, what should I drink with that, would you think?
0:33:34 > 0:33:37All of them, we try to do always with sherry.
0:33:37 > 0:33:40You can take one of them with dry sherry,
0:33:40 > 0:33:43another one with sweet sherry.
0:33:43 > 0:33:45- OK.- So they have different flavours.
0:33:45 > 0:33:46I'll do that.
0:33:48 > 0:33:51I've cooked, and I've had chorizo with chickpeas
0:33:51 > 0:33:54since I first started coming to Spain.
0:33:54 > 0:33:56And I like this kind of tapas.
0:33:56 > 0:33:59But the dogfish stew interested me.
0:33:59 > 0:34:01To me, it's a first.
0:34:01 > 0:34:03The dogfish.
0:34:04 > 0:34:06We can't get dogfish any more in the UK.
0:34:06 > 0:34:08I think it's a bit fished out,
0:34:08 > 0:34:10so it's really nice to be trying it again.
0:34:10 > 0:34:12It used to be very common in the '70s.
0:34:15 > 0:34:19Dogfish, a member of the shark family, lots of flavour, very mild,
0:34:19 > 0:34:22this one. Very, very nice.
0:34:22 > 0:34:25And it's also got some tuna belly in it as well.
0:34:29 > 0:34:32Now, the manzanilla to go with it.
0:34:35 > 0:34:39Subtle, fragrant, perfection.
0:34:46 > 0:34:48I love these long weekends.
0:34:48 > 0:34:49Because the time's short,
0:34:49 > 0:34:53you do much more, and, actually, I think I get better sussing out
0:34:53 > 0:34:57good restaurants, cooking food the locals like.
0:34:57 > 0:34:59Now, this is a pretty good example.
0:34:59 > 0:35:03Instantly, I get a feeling of families really enjoying themselves.
0:35:07 > 0:35:09I love this restaurant.
0:35:09 > 0:35:10We come here all the time.
0:35:10 > 0:35:11We always find a place,
0:35:11 > 0:35:15me and the rest of the crew, which we call central headquarters.
0:35:15 > 0:35:19It's where we always go to have our meals when we're not filming.
0:35:19 > 0:35:23And this one is a fantastic seafood restaurant.
0:35:23 > 0:35:25It's got great prawns,
0:35:25 > 0:35:27with fantastic tuna, but what I really like,
0:35:27 > 0:35:30and what they're famous for, is their rice dishes,
0:35:30 > 0:35:34and this one that I am eating, arroz verde,
0:35:34 > 0:35:36is just like a paella but it's so simple.
0:35:36 > 0:35:43It's just rice and clams, almejas, and prawns and lots of garlic,
0:35:43 > 0:35:47quite a lot of salt and lovely green herbs.
0:35:47 > 0:35:51And it is just so subtle.
0:35:51 > 0:35:56Whereas the crew, I have to say, have ordered up a sort of paella,
0:35:56 > 0:36:00I think it is a paella which is so yellow,
0:36:00 > 0:36:04that you'd actually have to wear sunglasses to eat it!
0:36:04 > 0:36:05Yummy!
0:36:09 > 0:36:14The crew preferred the paella, but looking round that restaurant,
0:36:14 > 0:36:19I noticed that most of the locals were eating this one.
0:36:19 > 0:36:21Arroz verde.
0:36:21 > 0:36:24Arroz, rice. Verde, green.
0:36:25 > 0:36:28I couldn't have enough of that arroz verde
0:36:28 > 0:36:29which came from that restaurant
0:36:29 > 0:36:32called La Marea, which means the tide.
0:36:32 > 0:36:33It's just one of those restaurants
0:36:33 > 0:36:36that you love to find in a place like Cadiz.
0:36:36 > 0:36:38Right on the beach, really informal,
0:36:38 > 0:36:42full of families all enjoying themselves, and great seafood.
0:36:47 > 0:36:50So I'm just softening the shallots in this olive oil,
0:36:50 > 0:36:51I've got the heat really quite turned down.
0:36:51 > 0:36:54I don't want it to burn or catch at all.
0:36:54 > 0:36:57And next, I'm going to put lots of garlic in.
0:36:57 > 0:36:59I've got about 12 garlic cloves here.
0:36:59 > 0:37:01I'm just going to chop them up.
0:37:01 > 0:37:05I thought it was almost as much about the garlic and the olive oil
0:37:05 > 0:37:07as the seafood.
0:37:07 > 0:37:10I just love the smell of cooking olive oil and garlic.
0:37:10 > 0:37:12It's the salt of the Mediterranean.
0:37:12 > 0:37:16Whenever I think of the Mediterranean, that is the taste.
0:37:16 > 0:37:20I know Cadiz is not on the Mediterranean before you write in,
0:37:20 > 0:37:22but it is the same climate, basically.
0:37:22 > 0:37:25So, now I'm just adding just over a litre of stock
0:37:25 > 0:37:28and I'm just going to bring that to the boil and chop some parsley.
0:37:28 > 0:37:30When I first went to Spain,
0:37:30 > 0:37:33I thought the only rice dish in Spain was paella.
0:37:33 > 0:37:37But in fact, there's loads of rice dishes and loads of seafood and
0:37:37 > 0:37:39rice dishes and this is one of them.
0:37:39 > 0:37:41I suppose you could say it is just a sort of simplified paella,
0:37:41 > 0:37:44but I make it all the time just because of that,
0:37:44 > 0:37:46because it's so easy.
0:37:46 > 0:37:48First of all, we had a lot of garlic,
0:37:48 > 0:37:51now we've got an awful lot of parsley,
0:37:51 > 0:37:54but it is called arroz verde, so I need a lot of green in it.
0:37:54 > 0:37:56I was just thinking that,
0:37:56 > 0:37:58had this been 100 miles down the road in Portugal,
0:37:58 > 0:38:01this would be coriander, not parsley.
0:38:03 > 0:38:07So, I'm just sprinkling the rice into the boiling fish stock...
0:38:09 > 0:38:12..and now for the enormous amount of parsley,
0:38:12 > 0:38:15and some salt, about a teaspoon and a half.
0:38:15 > 0:38:20And I'm just going to leave that to simmer gently for six minutes.
0:38:23 > 0:38:26So, the rice has been cooking for about six minutes
0:38:26 > 0:38:28and now I'm just going to put all these live clams
0:38:28 > 0:38:30on the top of it all like that.
0:38:31 > 0:38:35You might see them start to pop open in a minute.
0:38:35 > 0:38:38Now the prawns, and I've actually cut the prawns lengthways.
0:38:38 > 0:38:40I actually ordered slightly smaller prawns
0:38:40 > 0:38:43and the truth of it is I got big ones.
0:38:43 > 0:38:45Quite often I'll cut prawns half lengthways
0:38:45 > 0:38:47just to make them go further.
0:38:49 > 0:38:52Most people think paella is the national dish of Spain,
0:38:52 > 0:38:56but, actually, it started life as a regional dish in Valencia
0:38:56 > 0:38:58where there were rice fields.
0:38:58 > 0:39:01I remember having it with snails that looked a bit like humbugs,
0:39:01 > 0:39:04chunks of rabbit and pieces of chicken.
0:39:04 > 0:39:09In fact, the rule of thumb would be to use what's available.
0:39:09 > 0:39:15Here, loads of clams because they're plentiful, and the gambas.
0:39:15 > 0:39:16So, there it is.
0:39:16 > 0:39:18Cooked about 18, 20 minutes.
0:39:18 > 0:39:21So easy, a couple of big spoonfuls on the plate.
0:39:21 > 0:39:24And I always like to serve some alioli garlic mayonnaise with it.
0:39:24 > 0:39:27It's not totally correct,
0:39:27 > 0:39:30but I do notice quite a lot of Spanish people do it too.
0:39:30 > 0:39:31I love the combination.
0:39:31 > 0:39:33There it is.
0:39:47 > 0:39:52Just outside Cadiz, there's a really good restaurant by a very busy road,
0:39:52 > 0:39:57run by a famous chef, Jose Manuel Cordoba.
0:39:57 > 0:40:00We have to take care because it's really hot.
0:40:00 > 0:40:01OK, take care.
0:40:03 > 0:40:04Fab.
0:40:04 > 0:40:08His speciality is cooking a loin of tuna
0:40:08 > 0:40:11which he's had marinating in red wine.
0:40:11 > 0:40:15He sears the tuna, and he bakes it for five to seven minutes,
0:40:15 > 0:40:17not very much.
0:40:17 > 0:40:21And then he makes a sauce with the reduction of the red wine.
0:40:24 > 0:40:26- OK.- Can I try?
0:40:26 > 0:40:29Yeah, you have to try, of course.
0:40:29 > 0:40:32- That's lovely.- Yes, a little bit of salt, just a little.
0:40:32 > 0:40:33- Si.- OK?
0:40:35 > 0:40:38Now, this is a very quick restaurant dish to make.
0:40:38 > 0:40:43Interestingly, Jose Manuel cooks it pink, which was lovely.
0:40:43 > 0:40:47I think I have got too used to having it quite raw in the middle.
0:40:48 > 0:40:53He dresses it with sauce, and it's the most popular dish on the menu,
0:40:53 > 0:40:56because the fresh tuna is at its peak at the moment.
0:41:02 > 0:41:04Very soft, very fresh.
0:41:04 > 0:41:05Yes, it's too fresh.
0:41:05 > 0:41:09- It is beautiful.- Now is the season for the fresh tuna here in Cadiz.
0:41:09 > 0:41:11It's such good tuna.
0:41:11 > 0:41:15'So, if you come here between April and June, a good time to come,
0:41:15 > 0:41:17'virtually every restaurant and bar
0:41:17 > 0:41:20'has their own special way of cooking tuna.
0:41:20 > 0:41:24'There's even a gastronomic route dedicated to it.
0:41:24 > 0:41:29'But what really interests me is Cadiz's signature dish.
0:41:29 > 0:41:33'The young receptionist at the hotel mentioned it when I arrived.
0:41:33 > 0:41:38'Tortillitas de camarones. In short, it's shrimp pancakes.'
0:41:42 > 0:41:46To make this really light batter, you need flour, a bit of salt,
0:41:46 > 0:41:49very cold water, it has to be really cold...
0:41:50 > 0:41:53..a little bit of chopped onion,
0:41:53 > 0:41:57parsley, and seaweed.
0:41:57 > 0:41:59That makes a real difference.
0:41:59 > 0:42:05You get a bite of the sea and two types of shrimps, both very local.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08They're so fresh, they've just been caught.
0:42:10 > 0:42:12People rave about these fritters.
0:42:12 > 0:42:14I'm nearly tempted to say
0:42:14 > 0:42:18I've known grown men cry describing the taste.
0:42:18 > 0:42:23All they need in the piping hot olive oil is just a minute or a
0:42:23 > 0:42:25tad over and that's it.
0:42:25 > 0:42:28Once tasted, never forgotten.
0:42:37 > 0:42:40- Delicious.- Thank you.
0:42:41 > 0:42:45Everybody tries here for an appetiser.
0:42:45 > 0:42:47'What does it taste like, Rick?'
0:42:47 > 0:42:51This is the best fritter I've ever tasted.
0:42:51 > 0:42:54The shrimps were jumping, I have to say this,
0:42:54 > 0:42:55just before they were fried,
0:42:55 > 0:43:00and this is the sort of Spanish seafood
0:43:00 > 0:43:03that makes it so very special.
0:43:03 > 0:43:06People say they are the best tortillitas de camarones
0:43:06 > 0:43:07all over the world.
0:43:07 > 0:43:09- I agree.- People say, not me!
0:43:11 > 0:43:15Would I disagree? Not at all.
0:43:15 > 0:43:17Needless to say, with fritters like these,
0:43:17 > 0:43:20no more filming could be done
0:43:20 > 0:43:23until the crew had had a couple of platefuls.
0:43:27 > 0:43:29This is fascinating.
0:43:29 > 0:43:30We were just packing up,
0:43:30 > 0:43:33and Jose Manuel's asked me to come down and have a look at this.
0:43:33 > 0:43:36I mean, this inn was built in 1780,
0:43:36 > 0:43:39that's 25 years before the Battle of Trafalgar,
0:43:39 > 0:43:42and a lot of this stuff was in the walls, apparently.
0:43:42 > 0:43:45I mean, I bet some of it was from Trafalgar.
0:43:45 > 0:43:47These cannonballs and the shot, there,
0:43:47 > 0:43:49I don't know about that jacket,
0:43:49 > 0:43:52that might not be, but it doesn't matter
0:43:52 > 0:43:54because when you think how old this building is,
0:43:54 > 0:43:56it was here before Trafalgar.
0:43:56 > 0:43:58It's just fascinating.
0:43:58 > 0:44:02Actually, I quite like sitting here, having a nice bit of tuna and
0:44:02 > 0:44:04sort of looking down at history.
0:44:07 > 0:44:09One thing leads to another,
0:44:09 > 0:44:13and so I had to have a look at Cape Trafalgar.
0:44:13 > 0:44:15It's not far away from Cadiz.
0:44:15 > 0:44:18I love soaking up history.
0:44:18 > 0:44:22This is where the Spanish and French fleet met their doom
0:44:22 > 0:44:25when Nelson's ships appeared over the horizon
0:44:25 > 0:44:28perfectly in line at right angles to the flanks
0:44:28 > 0:44:32of the French and Spanish ships, and went through Napoleon's fleet
0:44:32 > 0:44:36like the proverbial hot knife through butter.
0:44:36 > 0:44:40It was said to be the greatest naval battle in history,
0:44:40 > 0:44:42but it was a bloody affair.
0:44:42 > 0:44:45Nelson was shot by a sniper
0:44:45 > 0:44:48and the French and the Spanish were mostly destroyed.
0:44:50 > 0:44:55Church bells rang all over Britain and the ultimate hero's body
0:44:55 > 0:45:00was brought back home in a barrel of brandy.
0:45:00 > 0:45:02Looking at the scene now, you'd never know.
0:45:12 > 0:45:15Another town in the Sherry Triangle
0:45:15 > 0:45:19that you have to go to is San Lucar de Barrameda.
0:45:19 > 0:45:23It's the only place where manzanilla is made.
0:45:23 > 0:45:26It's also where Christopher Columbus
0:45:26 > 0:45:28came back from the New World.
0:45:28 > 0:45:31He sailed from Cadiz, but came back here.
0:45:31 > 0:45:37However, it's where I had one of the best tapas dishes ever.
0:45:37 > 0:45:43Well, I must say, I've just watched these patatas alinadas being made
0:45:43 > 0:45:46and I was just thinking, here for lunch, what a perfect lunch dish.
0:45:46 > 0:45:50I mean, the potatoes are so lovely and sweet, Spanish new potatoes,
0:45:50 > 0:45:55the onion, again, is sweet and soft, you've got the sherry vinegar,
0:45:55 > 0:45:58you've got this fantastic local olive oil
0:45:58 > 0:46:04which is deep green and so, almost thick and slightly bitter,
0:46:04 > 0:46:07and on top of it, you've got this fantastic tuna
0:46:07 > 0:46:11which is more like bonito, I think, called melva tuna which is lovely.
0:46:11 > 0:46:13It's such a great combination.
0:46:13 > 0:46:16But talking of combinations, I mean,
0:46:16 > 0:46:19it's got to be manzanilla to drink with this.
0:46:22 > 0:46:25I mean, it's got this nuttiness that goes so well with it
0:46:25 > 0:46:27and while I'm eating lunch,
0:46:27 > 0:46:31I'm thinking about that little song from Carmen
0:46:31 > 0:46:37where Carmen sings about going near the ramparts of Sevilla
0:46:37 > 0:46:40to the house of her friend, Lillas Pastia,
0:46:40 > 0:46:46and dance the seguidilla with a glass of manzanilla.
0:46:46 > 0:46:48Not a great translation from the French,
0:46:48 > 0:46:50I have to say, but you get the idea.
0:47:03 > 0:47:06I was going back to Cadiz before it got dark,
0:47:06 > 0:47:09but I heard there was a little fishing port here,
0:47:09 > 0:47:12and the boats were coming in thick and fast.
0:47:12 > 0:47:15I always like to see fishing boats unload.
0:47:15 > 0:47:18And this looks like a pretty good catch to me.
0:47:18 > 0:47:22It's not masses but very choice quality.
0:47:26 > 0:47:28That's a pretty good-looking fish, don't you think?
0:47:28 > 0:47:31It's called a corvina, a very good eating.
0:47:31 > 0:47:34I've had them all over the world, actually.
0:47:34 > 0:47:37It's really steaky, it's almost like meat from the sea,
0:47:37 > 0:47:39it's that firm.
0:47:39 > 0:47:40What a beautiful-looking fish.
0:47:40 > 0:47:43What I'm thinking here is, watching all this being landed,
0:47:43 > 0:47:46there is no shortage of fish here.
0:47:46 > 0:47:49There's so many different species and so much of it.
0:47:52 > 0:47:56Now, the man in charge of European fishing enterprises,
0:47:56 > 0:48:01which includes Cornwall, was born and lives here.
0:48:01 > 0:48:04He heard I was filming and wanted to meet up.
0:48:07 > 0:48:09I was a bit worried about, you know,
0:48:09 > 0:48:13talking about things like the Common Fisheries Policy etc,
0:48:13 > 0:48:18but he turned out to be a really nice bloke who loves fish.
0:48:18 > 0:48:21His name is Javier Garat.
0:48:24 > 0:48:28We met at a restaurant here and Nando, short for Fernando,
0:48:28 > 0:48:31cooks these freshly-landed prawns
0:48:31 > 0:48:34just off the boats a few minutes ago.
0:48:34 > 0:48:36He just boils them in seawater,
0:48:36 > 0:48:38and when they've peaked into perfect pinkness,
0:48:38 > 0:48:43he puts them into ice water, halting the cooking process
0:48:43 > 0:48:47and keeping them moist, sweet, perfection.
0:48:47 > 0:48:48As a restaurateur,
0:48:48 > 0:48:51I have a little benchmark to see who is a real connoisseur
0:48:51 > 0:48:53of seafood and it's this.
0:48:53 > 0:48:58Who eats the head of a prawn. Do YOU?
0:49:00 > 0:49:02This is the best part, the head.
0:49:02 > 0:49:03I agree.
0:49:03 > 0:49:06It's very tasty.
0:49:06 > 0:49:07Maybe I shouldn't be saying this to you,
0:49:07 > 0:49:09but I've been making these programmes,
0:49:09 > 0:49:11a lot about fish, in the last 20 years.
0:49:11 > 0:49:15Say ten, 15 years ago, if I said to a Cornishman
0:49:15 > 0:49:19that I was coming to Spain to speak to a Spaniard
0:49:19 > 0:49:22who is in charge of European Fisheries,
0:49:22 > 0:49:25they'd say, "Well, that's a bit like a fox in a henhouse,"
0:49:25 > 0:49:30because they so mistrusted the Spanish in those days.
0:49:30 > 0:49:33I can understand you.
0:49:33 > 0:49:35But, fortunately, things have changed radically.
0:49:35 > 0:49:39The good thing is that we are doing things much better
0:49:39 > 0:49:40than 20 years ago.
0:49:40 > 0:49:44We are taking care of the stocks, because without the stocks,
0:49:44 > 0:49:47we know that fishermen will never live,
0:49:47 > 0:49:51and that is why we are taking so much care of the fish.
0:49:51 > 0:49:53Talking of stocks,
0:49:53 > 0:49:56I mean, gosh, I was in a fish market in Cadiz,
0:49:56 > 0:49:59and what surprised me was how big the variety
0:49:59 > 0:50:01of fish in there.
0:50:01 > 0:50:03You are very lucky. I have to say this.
0:50:03 > 0:50:05We are very, very lucky.
0:50:05 > 0:50:08You have to take into account that in Spain are traded
0:50:08 > 0:50:11around 500 different commercial species,
0:50:11 > 0:50:13which is something completely different
0:50:13 > 0:50:15from our neighbours from other countries.
0:50:15 > 0:50:16Northern countries, mainly.
0:50:16 > 0:50:22If you go to the UK, you can find cod, haddock, salmon, pangasius...
0:50:22 > 0:50:23and not too many others.
0:50:23 > 0:50:26No, not...actually, it's getting better.
0:50:26 > 0:50:29In the market in Cornwall there's lots, there is,
0:50:29 > 0:50:32there's John Dory, red mullet, there's hake,
0:50:32 > 0:50:33lots of hake, good hake.
0:50:33 > 0:50:35The Cornish used to say,
0:50:35 > 0:50:40"The Spanish are taking all our hake," but...
0:50:40 > 0:50:44No. It is true because we have more quota.
0:50:44 > 0:50:48Our citizens, the consumers, love to eat fish.
0:50:48 > 0:50:51It's very healthy, and that is why our population also...
0:50:53 > 0:50:55..takes longer to die.
0:50:55 > 0:50:58I used to argue, "OK, the Spanish have the hake,
0:50:58 > 0:51:00"who eats hake around here?"
0:51:01 > 0:51:03I'm glad I met up with Javier
0:51:03 > 0:51:06because I love talking about fish,
0:51:06 > 0:51:10and it's great to meet someone who knows more about it than I do.
0:51:10 > 0:51:13Also, the prawns were the best.
0:51:13 > 0:51:15It's my last night here,
0:51:15 > 0:51:19and I had to get back to Cadiz for the flamenco.
0:51:23 > 0:51:28FLAMENCO MUSIC PLAYS
0:51:36 > 0:51:38SHE SINGS FLAMENCO
0:51:55 > 0:51:59I have a friend who can't bear listening to flamenco.
0:51:59 > 0:52:02He said it reminds him of when his mother
0:52:02 > 0:52:05used to get very cross with him for coming in late.
0:52:05 > 0:52:07But I love it.
0:52:07 > 0:52:09I always have. I love the raw passion,
0:52:09 > 0:52:11the handclaps, the stomping.
0:52:17 > 0:52:19If music and dancing were a spice,
0:52:19 > 0:52:24then flamenco would be the smokiest, spiciest pimenton.
0:53:05 > 0:53:07Ole las guapas!
0:53:07 > 0:53:09APPLAUSE
0:53:18 > 0:53:20I'm coming to the end of my weekend,
0:53:20 > 0:53:22but I feel I would have let myself down
0:53:22 > 0:53:25if I didn't come and see some flamenco.
0:53:25 > 0:53:27A lot of people might feel
0:53:27 > 0:53:31that flamenco has just become a bit of a tourist thing,
0:53:31 > 0:53:33but I have just seen the real deal,
0:53:33 > 0:53:39the real duende which means when the dancer and the dance become as one.
0:53:39 > 0:53:41What I was thinking when I was watching that
0:53:41 > 0:53:43is this sense of wildness about it,
0:53:43 > 0:53:45this sort of abandon,
0:53:45 > 0:53:50this really aggressive wildness, but within the confines of a dance.
0:53:50 > 0:53:52It is so moving.
0:53:52 > 0:53:56FLAMENCO GUITAR PLAYS
0:54:19 > 0:54:22Ole! Muchas gracias!
0:54:22 > 0:54:25APPLAUSE
0:54:25 > 0:54:29Now, if you come to Cadiz, I insist you have to come here.
0:54:29 > 0:54:33Pena Flamenca La Perla, the House of Flamenco.
0:54:33 > 0:54:36My trip certainly wouldn't be complete without it.
0:54:36 > 0:54:38It's fabulous.
0:54:39 > 0:54:45This is my last dish inspired by my last night in Cadiz.
0:54:48 > 0:54:51Now, I call this dish Spain on a plate.
0:54:51 > 0:54:56It has the colours of the Spanish flag - red and gold.
0:54:56 > 0:55:01It comes from Andalusia and it's called Huevos a la Flamenca.
0:55:01 > 0:55:02And it's delicious.
0:55:04 > 0:55:07I've got some olive oil, chopped onion and chopped garlic.
0:55:07 > 0:55:12And I slice up some Serrano ham, a good handful, I'd say.
0:55:14 > 0:55:18And now we start with some of that flamenco element,
0:55:18 > 0:55:19first of all, pimenton,
0:55:19 > 0:55:22a good heaped teaspoon of hot pimenton.
0:55:22 > 0:55:24It has to be hot and red.
0:55:24 > 0:55:28And now some tomato puree, a good squeeze of that.
0:55:28 > 0:55:32It's starting to look red and yellow and flamenco-ish already.
0:55:32 > 0:55:34There we go, and now some chopped tomatoes.
0:55:34 > 0:55:36Just skimmed them.
0:55:36 > 0:55:39Lovely summery tomatoes,
0:55:39 > 0:55:40in they go.
0:55:41 > 0:55:43Stir, stir, stir.
0:55:43 > 0:55:47Some salt, lovely, big, chunky rock salt.
0:55:47 > 0:55:48It's a big dish, this,
0:55:48 > 0:55:52and everything's big and generous and full of flavour.
0:55:52 > 0:55:57There we go. Plenty of pepper, stir that in.
0:55:57 > 0:55:59And now I'm just going to leave that to cook down
0:55:59 > 0:56:01for about ten, 15 minutes
0:56:01 > 0:56:06to get a lovely deep, deep pimenton smoky-flavoured sofrito.
0:56:10 > 0:56:12Lid on.
0:56:12 > 0:56:15Now, a slice of chorizo.
0:56:15 > 0:56:18OK, about ten slices, again, this is really hot chorizo.
0:56:18 > 0:56:23I want this dish to be extremely, extremely Andalusian.
0:56:23 > 0:56:28And now slice up this roasted red pepper into long thin slices.
0:56:28 > 0:56:30Now, let's have a look at the sauce.
0:56:30 > 0:56:32Perfect!
0:56:32 > 0:56:34Perfect deep red sauce.
0:56:34 > 0:56:35And now I'm just going to add
0:56:35 > 0:56:38some previously cooked haricot beans and peas.
0:56:38 > 0:56:40You can put what you like in it.
0:56:40 > 0:56:44Quite often, I put those lovely big Spanish butter beans in there,
0:56:44 > 0:56:46sometimes some potatoes,
0:56:46 > 0:56:48whatever vegetable you like.
0:56:48 > 0:56:52But at the moment, it's summer, it's beans, it's peas.
0:56:52 > 0:56:55And now to break four beautiful
0:56:55 > 0:56:58Burford Brown eggs into there.
0:56:58 > 0:57:01And I just hope I don't mess up any of the yolks.
0:57:05 > 0:57:07That one's good.
0:57:09 > 0:57:11That one's not so good.
0:57:14 > 0:57:16That one's good.
0:57:20 > 0:57:23That one's good. Fantastic.
0:57:23 > 0:57:27Nearly there. Around the outside, now I put the chorizo.
0:57:29 > 0:57:36And then finally, lovely, deep red slices of red peppers.
0:57:36 > 0:57:39A bit of salt.
0:57:39 > 0:57:41A bit of pepper.
0:57:43 > 0:57:45Lid on, leave those eggs to cook.
0:57:49 > 0:57:52Well, there it is. I mean, it just looks lovely.
0:57:52 > 0:57:53It's easy to make.
0:57:53 > 0:57:55It's a sort of a happy dish.
0:57:55 > 0:57:59Somebody once said to me, "What is Spanish food, quickly?"
0:57:59 > 0:58:02And I said, "The colours of the Spanish flag, red and yellow."
0:58:02 > 0:58:03And there it is.
0:58:03 > 0:58:08Red and yellow. It's just bursting with colour and flavour.
0:58:23 > 0:58:25# Hey, Rick
0:58:25 > 0:58:28# Where we going next weekend?
0:58:28 > 0:58:32# Are we flying a few hours away
0:58:32 > 0:58:35# For some delicious food, they say
0:58:35 > 0:58:39# We can try dishes in Roma or Barcelona
0:58:39 > 0:58:42# For something more exotic, though
0:58:42 > 0:58:43# The spices of Morocco
0:58:43 > 0:58:47# Yes, you can take your pick
0:58:47 > 0:58:50# And even break the ice in Reykjavik
0:58:50 > 0:58:53# So, Rick, make the booking
0:58:53 > 0:58:54# Let's get cooking
0:58:54 > 0:58:58# And get those taste buds going next weekend! #