0:00:06 > 0:00:09Just before the Spanish Civil War,
0:00:09 > 0:00:15the writer Laurie Lee tempted his readers with a promise of Spain.
0:00:15 > 0:00:18He said, "You will drink harsh wines, feed on stews of beans,
0:00:18 > 0:00:22"or perhaps nothing but bread and olives.
0:00:22 > 0:00:24"You'll be entering a Spain few have seen,
0:00:24 > 0:00:28"the Spain of the Middle Ages, passing through silence
0:00:28 > 0:00:32"like an act of God, into regions of rock and pine,
0:00:32 > 0:00:35"arriving finally at villages
0:00:35 > 0:00:37"that appear never to have been visited,
0:00:37 > 0:00:40"or that seem to have been waiting for you to come."
0:01:18 > 0:01:21I'm in Extremadura.
0:01:21 > 0:01:24This must be the tobacco-growing capital of Spain,
0:01:24 > 0:01:27a country that still hangs on its love for cigarettes,
0:01:27 > 0:01:32judging by the numerous smoke-filled cafes and bars I've been to on this trip.
0:01:32 > 0:01:37I don't smoke myself but it did make me feel rather nostalgic.
0:01:37 > 0:01:41Before I got here I thought Extremadura meant extra hard,
0:01:41 > 0:01:45even tougher than La Mancha, but it doesn't mean that at all.
0:01:45 > 0:01:51It means Extremadura, the area to the south beyond the Duero River.
0:01:51 > 0:01:55And that was a sort of no-man's land between the Moors and the Christians,
0:01:55 > 0:01:59and it was the area that the Christians were constantly pushing into,
0:01:59 > 0:02:03and pushing the Moors further and further south.
0:02:03 > 0:02:05And it's very sparsely populated.
0:02:05 > 0:02:10In an area slightly larger than Switzerland there's only a million people,
0:02:10 > 0:02:14and very little tourism. But looking out all around me at the moment
0:02:14 > 0:02:20I think it's bound to get more popular and, of course, with the ham and all the other lovely produce,
0:02:20 > 0:02:24great goat, I mean I love goat, you can't get it back in the UK.
0:02:24 > 0:02:29It sort of has a feel that's slightly alpine in places
0:02:29 > 0:02:34and then there's big open plains in other places - I think it's very attractive.
0:02:36 > 0:02:40Apart from the Iberico ham, Extremadura is famous for
0:02:40 > 0:02:45the chillies it grows by the million here in the La Vera Valley.
0:02:45 > 0:02:48It's the most fertile part of central Spain.
0:02:48 > 0:02:53It's one of the most famous imports from the Americas,
0:02:53 > 0:02:57and it's hard to imagine the food here without the colour and the fire of pimenton.
0:02:57 > 0:03:00Someone told me in La Mancha, where we've just come from,
0:03:00 > 0:03:04"When you get to Extremadura and those fields of peppers,
0:03:04 > 0:03:06"it'll seem like the fields are on fire,
0:03:06 > 0:03:11"they're so intense with red," and indeed they are.
0:03:11 > 0:03:16Just looking across there, you've got tobacco crops, those lighter green crops.
0:03:16 > 0:03:19And over there you've got the drying sheds for them.
0:03:19 > 0:03:23Both crops came from the Americas, as indeed did the conquerors of America.
0:03:23 > 0:03:26The Conquistadors all came from Extremadura,
0:03:26 > 0:03:29so there's a sort of symbionic relationship there.
0:03:29 > 0:03:32But to me this is the most important flavour in Spain.
0:03:32 > 0:03:34The first time I tasted pimenton,
0:03:34 > 0:03:37which is what they make out of these peppers,
0:03:37 > 0:03:39I just thought I've got to have more of that.
0:03:39 > 0:03:41It is the flavour in chorizos,
0:03:41 > 0:03:46it's the flavour in their soups, most of their stews and vegetable dishes,
0:03:46 > 0:03:51and that is why I'm here, that is why I'm so excited to be here.
0:03:51 > 0:03:56Making pimenton is back-breaking work.
0:03:56 > 0:04:00All those freshly-picked chillies have to be smoked.
0:04:00 > 0:04:04They say the discovery of pimenton was an accident long ago.
0:04:04 > 0:04:08Apparently during cooking some chillies fell out of a pot by the fire,
0:04:08 > 0:04:09and lay there un-noticed.
0:04:09 > 0:04:13Once discovered, the cook ground the dried and brittle chillies
0:04:13 > 0:04:18and put the powder into a soup and hey presto, a new flavour was born.
0:04:20 > 0:04:23So they made this fire of home oak, and just lit it
0:04:23 > 0:04:27and the smoke drifts up through these lathes of wood,
0:04:27 > 0:04:29right through the peppers above,
0:04:29 > 0:04:31and there's about a metre of peppers above.
0:04:31 > 0:04:34And that dries and smokes for ten days,
0:04:34 > 0:04:37and every two days they turn them over
0:04:37 > 0:04:42so that every bit dries thoroughly, and that's the flavour of pimenton -
0:04:42 > 0:04:45that sweet, smoky taste.
0:04:45 > 0:04:49I've just got to see scenes like this and smell the smells.
0:04:49 > 0:04:51It makes me want to cook.
0:04:51 > 0:04:54And I'm so lucky to have this idyllic house
0:04:54 > 0:04:57in the mountains of neighbouring Andalucia to do that.
0:04:57 > 0:05:00I'm going to cook a simple, robust dish of lentils,
0:05:00 > 0:05:05the sort of dish you'd find in bars and taverns all around these parts.
0:05:05 > 0:05:10I'm looking for stones in my lentils, cos all the recipes say, "Look for stones in the lentils."
0:05:10 > 0:05:13Haven't found any stones here, never found any stones.
0:05:13 > 0:05:17But I suppose in theory I could break someone's tooth, so I'm looking.
0:05:17 > 0:05:19But no stones here.
0:05:19 > 0:05:23So into a large saucepan go the lentils
0:05:23 > 0:05:27and enough cold water to cover them, and I'll leave them to cook.
0:05:27 > 0:05:32Now, Serrano ham. It's a dry-cured mountain ham with lots of flavour
0:05:32 > 0:05:35and it comes from the white pig, so it's much cheaper
0:05:35 > 0:05:39than the famous Iberico ham that comes from the leaner, black pig.
0:05:39 > 0:05:43Next garlic, lots of garlic.
0:05:43 > 0:05:47While working on this whole head of garlic,
0:05:47 > 0:05:52I read in a book recently about one of the Spanish kings in the 16th century,
0:05:52 > 0:05:54one of the Alfonso's I think,
0:05:54 > 0:05:59so disliked the smell of garlic and indeed onions,
0:05:59 > 0:06:02that he forbade his courtiers from eating them,
0:06:02 > 0:06:05and if they did, indeed, have it on their breath,
0:06:05 > 0:06:07he'd ban them from the Court,
0:06:07 > 0:06:09partly cos of the smell,
0:06:09 > 0:06:13but also because garlic was associated with poor people.
0:06:13 > 0:06:16Well, nowadays it's completely different.
0:06:16 > 0:06:19I mean I can remember when I was little my parents saying,
0:06:19 > 0:06:22"Oh, they smell of garlic," you know?
0:06:22 > 0:06:27But now you smell garlic on somebody's breath and you think, "They like their food."
0:06:28 > 0:06:32So the garlic I'll fry in olive oil until it softens.
0:06:32 > 0:06:36The smell of garlic and hot olive oil is to my mind the smell of the Mediterranean.
0:06:36 > 0:06:42Next onions, give them a stir and a moment to go transparent.
0:06:42 > 0:06:45And then add some finely chopped carrots,
0:06:45 > 0:06:48and let them soften for a few minutes.
0:06:48 > 0:06:50We're ready now for the Serrano ham,
0:06:50 > 0:06:53to imbue everything with its salty sweetness.
0:06:55 > 0:06:59I just love cooking this Spanish food.
0:06:59 > 0:07:03It smells so good, I mean I'm using lots and lots of pimenton
0:07:03 > 0:07:06and thinking back to Extremadura,
0:07:06 > 0:07:10going through those fields of red peppers, a sort of flame red,
0:07:10 > 0:07:13and climbing up into the loft where they're smoking them,
0:07:13 > 0:07:18and it's the same smell I'm getting now, it's just wonderful.
0:07:18 > 0:07:22I've skinned and chopped up some tomatoes and put those in.
0:07:22 > 0:07:25Look how that pimenton has changed the colour.
0:07:25 > 0:07:29Now I pour in a generous glass of white wine for some acidity.
0:07:29 > 0:07:33I do the same for a bolognaise sauce at home too.
0:07:33 > 0:07:37Season well with salt and pepper, and strain off those lentils.
0:07:37 > 0:07:41I've had various versions of this dish in Greece, France and Italy,
0:07:41 > 0:07:44and it never fails, but I think the addition of pimenton
0:07:44 > 0:07:49really transforms it into something memorable and very Spanish.
0:07:50 > 0:07:54I've kept some of the juice from the lentils as it's a little bit dry,
0:07:54 > 0:07:57so I'll just add a bit more of that.
0:07:57 > 0:08:00I love this dish, it's so typical of Spanish cooking
0:08:00 > 0:08:05because you're using really cheap and earthy ingredients
0:08:05 > 0:08:07like lentils and carrots,
0:08:07 > 0:08:11but you're using also just a small amount of things with lots of flavour
0:08:11 > 0:08:14like the Serrano ham and the pimenton.
0:08:14 > 0:08:18So a dish of humble lentils becomes something really quite special.
0:08:24 > 0:08:29Trujillo is one of the most fabulous places I've visited on my travels.
0:08:29 > 0:08:32This is my idea of Spain, this is what I had in mind
0:08:32 > 0:08:36when I set out on that ferry all those weeks ago.
0:08:36 > 0:08:40A town that hasn't been touched by the excesses of tourism,
0:08:40 > 0:08:43a town happy with its place in history.
0:08:43 > 0:08:47Many of the Conquistadors came from here in Extremadura.
0:08:47 > 0:08:49They say it was because life was so hard,
0:08:49 > 0:08:52they wanted to risk all and become adventurers,
0:08:52 > 0:08:57Cortez, Balboa and Pizarro being the most prominent.
0:08:57 > 0:09:00Pizarro came from this town and made it rich.
0:09:00 > 0:09:02He really plundered South America.
0:09:02 > 0:09:07For a while he was in Panama planning expeditions to South America,
0:09:07 > 0:09:09he wanted to conquer Peru.
0:09:09 > 0:09:12And there was him and a guy called Almagro and a priest,
0:09:12 > 0:09:16and they called them in Panama, "the company of lunatics"
0:09:16 > 0:09:22because they're mad, they're going to try and take over this whole Inca Empire, no way.
0:09:22 > 0:09:26Two abortive attempts, then he came back to Spain and somehow
0:09:26 > 0:09:32managed to convince the King, Charles I, to give him the money, to give him the backing.
0:09:32 > 0:09:36So he finally set off to capture Atahualpa and the Incas
0:09:36 > 0:09:38with 180 men.
0:09:38 > 0:09:42But fortunately Atahualpa was in civil war with his brother
0:09:42 > 0:09:45and they were killing each other in shed loads,
0:09:45 > 0:09:48and he managed to get in, capture Atahualpa.
0:09:48 > 0:09:51Then Atahualpa said, "I will buy my freedom,"
0:09:51 > 0:09:55and offered him a room full of gold. And Pizarro said,
0:09:55 > 0:09:59"Fine, fine, fine," took the gold and garrotted Atahualpa.
0:09:59 > 0:10:03He was an absolute bugger.
0:10:09 > 0:10:12What I really like about making these programmes is,
0:10:12 > 0:10:14obviously we have a bit of a schedule
0:10:14 > 0:10:16and places to go,
0:10:16 > 0:10:19but what I really like is just finding people by chance,
0:10:19 > 0:10:22just as I did down in the square in Trujillo just now -
0:10:22 > 0:10:25a New Zealand couple called Chris and Lindy who said,
0:10:25 > 0:10:29"You've got to film this guy Victor. He makes really good migas,
0:10:29 > 0:10:32"but he's got this really old allotment
0:10:32 > 0:10:33"just under the castle walls."
0:10:33 > 0:10:37And said, "There's none left like them."
0:10:37 > 0:10:40I've just come up here and it's just wonderful
0:10:40 > 0:10:41because he actually...
0:10:41 > 0:10:44He's almost self-sufficient in fruit and vegetables,
0:10:44 > 0:10:49and I sort of walked through into this sort of Aladdin's cave, really.
0:10:49 > 0:10:51I mean, it's like the ultimate shed,
0:10:51 > 0:10:54and he's now cooking these migas for me.
0:10:54 > 0:10:56Migas are legendary in Spain, anyway.
0:10:58 > 0:11:00After frying garlic and peppers,
0:11:00 > 0:11:03Victor puts in strips of cured belly pork,
0:11:03 > 0:11:07and through an interpreter, I asked him about his love of cooking,
0:11:07 > 0:11:09where did it come from?
0:11:09 > 0:11:12Amazingly, he said that he was left alone
0:11:12 > 0:11:15when he was only a little boy of seven-years-old,
0:11:15 > 0:11:18because his parents had to move cattle
0:11:18 > 0:11:20to the cooler lands further north.
0:11:20 > 0:11:25They went away for weeks at a time, he had to look after himself,
0:11:25 > 0:11:27and it became necessary to cook things,
0:11:27 > 0:11:31like migas and patatas bravas and other simple dishes.
0:11:32 > 0:11:35He also puts in chorizo,
0:11:35 > 0:11:38and soon, these strips of belly pork are cooked.
0:11:38 > 0:11:41Now, the main point of this dish, the breadcrumbs.
0:11:41 > 0:11:43He splashed them with water
0:11:43 > 0:11:47and they go into the oil which has been flavoured by all that garlic,
0:11:47 > 0:11:48peppers, chorizo -
0:11:48 > 0:11:52all the strong flavours of Spain.
0:11:52 > 0:11:54What I like is the fact that he's got,
0:11:54 > 0:11:58in addition to those peppers, and of course, they're local pimenton peppers,
0:11:58 > 0:12:02lots of garlic, you never would have put as much in, lots of olive oil,
0:12:02 > 0:12:06and then, really fat belly pork and lots of spicy chorizo.
0:12:06 > 0:12:09It's that combination, I wouldn't have got it.
0:12:09 > 0:12:12Also, I got the breadcrumbs too small, they are quite chunky.
0:12:12 > 0:12:16They're not really breadcrumbs, they're just bits of cut-up bread.
0:12:16 > 0:12:18I can't wait to try it.
0:12:19 > 0:12:21This is the food of the poor,
0:12:21 > 0:12:25and like many dishes, it originated with the shepherds ages ago.
0:12:25 > 0:12:28Even Cervantes wrote about the joys of migas,
0:12:28 > 0:12:31or "mijas" for the aficionados.
0:12:31 > 0:12:34It's probably the oldest dish in the whole of Spain.
0:12:35 > 0:12:38This is Chris and Lindy who I met down in the square
0:12:38 > 0:12:41and put me on to this. I must say, I'm very pleased, it looks great.
0:12:41 > 0:12:46It's a shame that most of us has lost the use of bread, isn't it?
0:12:46 > 0:12:50It's sort of, always regarded as a sort of, a bit of an ancillary,
0:12:50 > 0:12:51whereas to the Spanish,
0:12:51 > 0:12:54it's absolutely the centre of their cooking.
0:12:54 > 0:12:57I was really surprised to see you down there,
0:12:57 > 0:13:00because, you know, it seems so, sort of, remote here.
0:13:00 > 0:13:03I mean, erm... What brings you so far away
0:13:03 > 0:13:05from the normal tourist track, then?
0:13:05 > 0:13:08For most people who live in other countries,
0:13:08 > 0:13:11they think of Spain as being a bit like a polo mint.
0:13:11 > 0:13:15- There's lots around the costa... - That's very good, I must say.
0:13:15 > 0:13:18- ..but there's nothing in the middle. - A polo mint with...
0:13:18 > 0:13:21There is... There is lots in the middle.
0:13:21 > 0:13:22There's lots and lots of history,
0:13:22 > 0:13:25Roman history, wonderful architecture,
0:13:25 > 0:13:29wonderful people, and especially wonderful food.
0:13:29 > 0:13:30Natural food.
0:13:30 > 0:13:34I think that's one of the things, one of the many things...
0:13:34 > 0:13:36I mean, the food here is wonderful.
0:13:36 > 0:13:39Each week, we always go to the local market,
0:13:39 > 0:13:43where the food comes from the surrounding area,
0:13:43 > 0:13:46it's not brought in frozen, erm,
0:13:46 > 0:13:50and then displayed. It's all fresh, most of it's been picked that day.
0:13:50 > 0:13:54HE SPEAKS SPANISH
0:13:54 > 0:13:57'Victor told us what he used to eat
0:13:57 > 0:14:00'when he was growing up round here, years ago.'
0:14:03 > 0:14:06He was saying, when he was young, life was very hard,
0:14:06 > 0:14:10they had food of the season,
0:14:10 > 0:14:15but they would depend, really, on things like bread,
0:14:15 > 0:14:18lentejas, which are lentils,
0:14:18 > 0:14:20beans, tomatoes...
0:14:21 > 0:14:25..verdura, which is things like pimientos,
0:14:25 > 0:14:30and meat would be something that was very much a luxury.
0:14:30 > 0:14:35- For meat, they would depend usually on hunting frogs.- Frogs?
0:14:35 > 0:14:38Frogs - ranas, ranas,
0:14:38 > 0:14:41- and also, at that time...- Lizards.
0:14:41 > 0:14:44..lizards, which are lagartos, which are now a protected species.
0:14:44 > 0:14:48I heard him say lagarto. I thought it sounded like, "Must be legumes."
0:14:48 > 0:14:50- Yeah, so...- No, no, no, lizards.
0:14:50 > 0:14:53Lizards and it would be, er, something very special,
0:14:53 > 0:14:57if they had meat that had been hunted.
0:14:57 > 0:14:59So, life, as I said, was extremely hard
0:14:59 > 0:15:02and obviously, bread was a staple,
0:15:02 > 0:15:05and that's where the idea of eating migas would have come from.
0:15:05 > 0:15:10So, if you find yourself as a tourist in this delightful town,
0:15:10 > 0:15:14and you can smell hot oil and garlic on the breeze,
0:15:14 > 0:15:17it's well worth a look over the castle walls
0:15:17 > 0:15:20to see if Victor's cooking migas.
0:15:25 > 0:15:28Slightly at the other end of the social spectrum,
0:15:28 > 0:15:32this is the Marques de Valdueza and his family.
0:15:32 > 0:15:35But, like Victor, he grows his own wine,
0:15:35 > 0:15:40makes his own olive oil and is basically self-sufficient.
0:15:40 > 0:15:43His real passion, though, is his hunting estates,
0:15:43 > 0:15:46what the Spanish call the dehesa.
0:15:47 > 0:15:49This is erm, your hunting estate?
0:15:50 > 0:15:55This is my hunting estate but I also have a lot of cattle.
0:15:55 > 0:15:56- I have, er, cows.- Yeah.
0:15:56 > 0:15:59Special native, autonomous breed
0:15:59 > 0:16:01which is called Avilena-Negra Iberica.
0:16:01 > 0:16:03We'll see them later on.
0:16:03 > 0:16:06The pig is very important,
0:16:06 > 0:16:10the swine, because we have the cerdo Iberico, the Iberian pig,
0:16:10 > 0:16:15which is the one that produces the fantastic jamon Iberico,
0:16:15 > 0:16:20and all the meat and things that are coming from these animals.
0:16:20 > 0:16:25We have sausages and... We have all this type of things.
0:16:25 > 0:16:29- The cork trees, the ones you see now with the orange colour...- Yeah.
0:16:29 > 0:16:34Because we harvest the cork last June,
0:16:34 > 0:16:37and then, they remain for some time,
0:16:37 > 0:16:40orange and then, they become dark again.
0:16:43 > 0:16:48Alonso's family have been in this area for nearly 400 years.
0:16:48 > 0:16:51He insisted I take a look across the valley
0:16:51 > 0:16:53to a place they once called home.
0:16:53 > 0:16:56That belonged to my great-grandfather,
0:16:56 > 0:17:01and when he died, he split the estate,
0:17:01 > 0:17:05and this part of the estate and the castle,
0:17:05 > 0:17:07went to the eldest son.
0:17:07 > 0:17:11But I am very happy that I can see it without owning it.
0:17:11 > 0:17:15- What, because of the upkeep? - Yes, it's very difficult to keep it.
0:17:15 > 0:17:17- It's better to look at than own, isn't it?- Yes.
0:17:17 > 0:17:19Just as a matter of interest,
0:17:19 > 0:17:22cos I really like the food in Extremadura, but what...
0:17:22 > 0:17:25You've been to Britain a lot of times -
0:17:25 > 0:17:27- what do you think of our food? - I like it.
0:17:27 > 0:17:30- You like it?- I like it. - Oh, my gosh, relief.
0:17:31 > 0:17:35I like it very much. I think, er, it's probably...
0:17:35 > 0:17:38I don't know why the British food
0:17:38 > 0:17:41has not a good image in general, in Europe.
0:17:41 > 0:17:44But for me, I mean, this in the many places I've been,
0:17:44 > 0:17:46I can say it's excellent.
0:17:46 > 0:17:48I think it's not always known,
0:17:48 > 0:17:52if you heard the average Spanish,
0:17:52 > 0:17:58that went on holidays to London, they think it's horrible,
0:17:58 > 0:18:01but it's not true, I like it very much.
0:18:01 > 0:18:05- Well, I'm very...- I always remember this small, er, small fish,
0:18:05 > 0:18:08- called whitebaits. - Whitebait.- I love them.
0:18:08 > 0:18:12- I love whitebait, too.- I love them.
0:18:12 > 0:18:14And many other things, of course.
0:18:17 > 0:18:21His black cattle are reared here in the cool months,
0:18:21 > 0:18:23before the temperature goes through the roof.
0:18:23 > 0:18:28Then, they're moved to cooler pastures, hundreds of miles north,
0:18:28 > 0:18:32in a real-life cattle drive with cowboys, horses, chuck wagons,
0:18:32 > 0:18:34the whole caboodle.
0:18:34 > 0:18:37Because remember, the very first of the Wild West cowboys
0:18:37 > 0:18:39came from here.
0:18:42 > 0:18:46The Marquesa, his wife Isabel, was preparing lunch -
0:18:46 > 0:18:48the famous Ajoblanco.
0:18:48 > 0:18:51So, this is a typical summer soup?
0:18:51 > 0:18:55It's a typical summer soup. Never eat it in the winter.
0:18:56 > 0:19:00Cos what I like about it, is it's very, very easy to make,
0:19:00 > 0:19:03and virtually, just come in and make it almost for...
0:19:03 > 0:19:07And another thing, you would never eat it in the north of Spain.
0:19:07 > 0:19:12- It's something that's very typical of Extremadura and Andalusia.- Yeah.
0:19:12 > 0:19:15- All this part.- Because you've got the almonds, you've got the...
0:19:15 > 0:19:18Yes, because you have the ingredients, and also because
0:19:18 > 0:19:23the heat is always very superior to the one in the north of Spain.
0:19:23 > 0:19:26I love the chickens outside the window.
0:19:26 > 0:19:28It's very erm, rural.
0:19:30 > 0:19:33- Yes, this kitchen is very rural. - Isn't it lovely?
0:19:33 > 0:19:36Isabel uses bread soaked in water,
0:19:36 > 0:19:39garlic, hence the name ajo,
0:19:39 > 0:19:42ground almonds, olive oil, salt and vinegar,
0:19:42 > 0:19:44and she has to make a couple of batches.
0:19:44 > 0:19:48- This is also our own. - It's also your own vinegar?
0:19:48 > 0:19:51- We did it at home. - Very good vinegar.
0:19:53 > 0:19:56The key here is to make sure that it's silky smooth,
0:19:56 > 0:19:58and that there are no lumps.
0:19:58 > 0:20:02It's something so typical in all the Spanish kitchens in the summer.
0:20:02 > 0:20:07When the tomatoes begin, or when the heat begins,
0:20:07 > 0:20:13you have to cool yourself with some nice, juicy, cold soup.
0:20:14 > 0:20:17So, you tend to do this and...
0:20:17 > 0:20:19Where are...? Here.
0:20:19 > 0:20:23And the almonds are something that is very popular in Spain
0:20:23 > 0:20:27as you know, as in the Arab countries, also.
0:20:29 > 0:20:31Isabel said that this was another dish
0:20:31 > 0:20:34that came from the shepherds, centuries ago.
0:20:34 > 0:20:39They had bread, oil, garlic, vinegar and loads of almonds,
0:20:39 > 0:20:41but no fridge.
0:20:42 > 0:20:46It's very nice, and it's very nice. It's got a lot of vinegar in it,
0:20:46 > 0:20:48but it's balanced by the salt.
0:20:48 > 0:20:51I love the grain of the erm, almonds in there,
0:20:51 > 0:20:54- and the bread gives it a sort of silkiness.- That's right.
0:20:54 > 0:20:57But it does need to be really cold, cos I can just see,
0:20:57 > 0:21:00the colder it gets, the more satisfying it gets.
0:21:00 > 0:21:03- It gets all the better if it's cold.- Yeah.
0:21:03 > 0:21:07She puts in sweet grapes and then cools it in the fridge.
0:21:09 > 0:21:12We've never really got used to cold soups at home.
0:21:12 > 0:21:16OK, I know when it's really hot, we might make a stab at gazpacho,
0:21:16 > 0:21:21but why not consider this silky, cold garlic soup on a really hot day,
0:21:21 > 0:21:23with a chilled rose?
0:21:23 > 0:21:27It makes such a refreshing and elegant change.
0:21:27 > 0:21:31Virtually everything at the table including the wine is erm, is yours.
0:21:31 > 0:21:33THEY LAUGH
0:21:33 > 0:21:37- And the water, of course.- Of course. - Even this has been done by me.
0:21:37 > 0:21:38- Really?- Yeah.- Oh, my gosh.
0:21:38 > 0:21:41I just wanted to ask you,
0:21:41 > 0:21:43I mean, one of the reasons we're here in Spain filming,
0:21:43 > 0:21:45is because there's been such a...
0:21:45 > 0:21:48An upsurge in interest in Spanish cooking
0:21:48 > 0:21:51with all those Michelin-starred restaurants.
0:21:51 > 0:21:53What do you think... Why do you think it's happened?
0:21:53 > 0:21:56What's suddenly spurred it all on?
0:21:56 > 0:22:01I think the reason is that first, we have...
0:22:01 > 0:22:03Because they are different...
0:22:03 > 0:22:06The Constitution of Spain as a country,
0:22:06 > 0:22:09we have very many different climates and weather,
0:22:09 > 0:22:14so, I mean, many different foods to eat all over the country,
0:22:14 > 0:22:18that we know, that was very good since many years ago.
0:22:18 > 0:22:22But this was not known as, probably, the wine was not also known before.
0:22:22 > 0:22:24Now, because...
0:22:24 > 0:22:29I think first, we have very, very top quality chefs.
0:22:29 > 0:22:32They are showing the rest of the world
0:22:32 > 0:22:36that the Spanish food is very, very good food.
0:22:36 > 0:22:40But for me, you don't need to go to these top, top quality chefs.
0:22:40 > 0:22:43You can go in many restaurants all around Spain
0:22:43 > 0:22:47and have a very, very common but very good quality food, too.
0:22:47 > 0:22:50Well, I'd just like to thank you very much.
0:22:50 > 0:22:54It's been a wonderful morning and wonderful lunch and erm,
0:22:54 > 0:22:57here's to great Spanish produce,
0:22:57 > 0:23:00which you seem to produce the whole lot!
0:23:00 > 0:23:03- So, congratulations to...- Thank you.
0:23:03 > 0:23:05Salut!
0:23:08 > 0:23:09Do you do the glasses, too?
0:23:09 > 0:23:10THEY LAUGH
0:23:10 > 0:23:13This is going to be the next.
0:23:14 > 0:23:17I could easily get used to life in Extremadura.
0:23:17 > 0:23:22I imagine it was like Provence before Peter Mayle wrote his famous book.
0:23:22 > 0:23:27And like Provence, Extremadura was heavily garrisoned by the Romans.
0:23:27 > 0:23:31For all I know, this aqueduct was originally built by them.
0:23:31 > 0:23:34Interestingly, the gladiator Maximus,
0:23:34 > 0:23:36portrayed by Russell Crowe in the film,
0:23:36 > 0:23:38came from this region.
0:23:39 > 0:23:42But these are what makes Extremadura really special.
0:23:44 > 0:23:47Very amiable creatures, piggies.
0:23:47 > 0:23:51Was reminded of a quote from Winston Churchill who loved his pigs.
0:23:51 > 0:23:52He said, er...
0:23:54 > 0:23:58"Cat's look down on you, dogs look up at you,
0:23:58 > 0:24:02"but pigs treat human beings as equals."
0:24:02 > 0:24:04And that's what I think.
0:24:04 > 0:24:06They're going about their business being pigs.
0:24:06 > 0:24:10Actually, these black pigs used to be really rare
0:24:10 > 0:24:13because the white, northern, European pig took over,
0:24:13 > 0:24:15cos they grow much quicker and get much fatter,
0:24:15 > 0:24:17but these have the flavour.
0:24:17 > 0:24:20Once you've tasted it, you'll never forget it.
0:24:20 > 0:24:22It's up there with sort of caviar,
0:24:22 > 0:24:24and other sort of world-class flavours,
0:24:24 > 0:24:26and it's taking off.
0:24:26 > 0:24:28I mean, people all over the world
0:24:28 > 0:24:33are beginning to understand and crave Iberico ham,
0:24:33 > 0:24:36and it's so good for this area. I mean, to tell you the truth,
0:24:36 > 0:24:42I'd hardly heard of Extremadura before I started eating Iberico ham,
0:24:42 > 0:24:44and then, when I started, I thought,
0:24:44 > 0:24:48"This is special, I want to go to the place where it's produced,"
0:24:48 > 0:24:50and here I am.
0:24:50 > 0:24:52And it's just lovely because they are free to range
0:24:52 > 0:24:54and they do eat the acorns.
0:24:54 > 0:24:57They start eating acorns now,
0:24:57 > 0:25:01and by January, they'll have put on about 100-150 kilos.
0:25:01 > 0:25:04That's how much they love their acorns.
0:25:04 > 0:25:09There's a famous artisan ham factory called Maldonado's at Albuquerque,
0:25:09 > 0:25:13that my friend and top Spanish chef Jose Pizarro said I'd have to see.
0:25:13 > 0:25:15- Good Lord.- Look at that.
0:25:15 > 0:25:18It's a place very close to heaven.
0:25:19 > 0:25:22It's like a... It's like a cathedral of hams.
0:25:22 > 0:25:25It's not a cathedral. This is the Vatican of ham.
0:25:25 > 0:25:27Fair enough. Unbelievable!
0:25:27 > 0:25:31- This is, 40,000 pieces of ham. - 40,000?
0:25:31 > 0:25:34What would that be worth, then? I mean, in terms of euros.
0:25:34 > 0:25:38- Around, I will say, 8 million euros. - 8 million euros.
0:25:38 > 0:25:41- Yes, it's a lot of money. - It's a lot of money.
0:25:41 > 0:25:42But it's worth it.
0:25:42 > 0:25:45Jose, how would you describe the taste of Iberico ham?
0:25:45 > 0:25:47I will say, that is a very difficult question.
0:25:47 > 0:25:50It's something between saltiness, sweetness,
0:25:50 > 0:25:54and then, the flavour from the nut, from the acorns, come into your mouth.
0:25:54 > 0:25:57When you put the fat there, it just melts.
0:25:57 > 0:25:59Which do you prefer - the fat or the lean?
0:25:59 > 0:26:02I will say - a ham without fat is not ham.
0:26:02 > 0:26:05You need the fat there. You know, it's the point.
0:26:05 > 0:26:09When I saw people taking the fat out of the ham, it made me mad.
0:26:09 > 0:26:10It's not right.
0:26:10 > 0:26:13But these hams are... Not this one.
0:26:13 > 0:26:15This one now, is almost one year cured.
0:26:15 > 0:26:19- Right. - But when they sell, it's four years.
0:26:19 > 0:26:23- They have been hanging here for four years.- Four years?
0:26:24 > 0:26:27And this ham, when it's Iberico,
0:26:27 > 0:26:30you can go until some of them, not all, until seven years.
0:26:30 > 0:26:33But those are something unbelievable.
0:26:33 > 0:26:35So, what... The most expensive...
0:26:35 > 0:26:38Cos some are more expensive than others, then.
0:26:38 > 0:26:40What would be the most expensive in euros?
0:26:40 > 0:26:45These sell for £3,000 in London, one piece of ham.
0:26:46 > 0:26:48£3,000!
0:26:48 > 0:26:52But, I promise you, the value is right.
0:26:52 > 0:26:56You are going to taste now, and you are going to be in heaven.
0:27:00 > 0:27:04You see, the way he is cutting the ham right now,
0:27:04 > 0:27:06and in the moment, he was beginning to cut,
0:27:06 > 0:27:10and everybody was in silence, staring at him while doing that.
0:27:10 > 0:27:14It seems to me like in the moment when you are in the church
0:27:14 > 0:27:17waiting for the Body of Christ being consecrated,
0:27:17 > 0:27:20- and everybody waiting for eating them.- I knew you were right.
0:27:20 > 0:27:23- I told you - the Vatican! - Cathedrals, Vatican...
0:27:23 > 0:27:26- It is a moment of great... - It's a ritual.
0:27:26 > 0:27:29- Great significance.- Yeah.
0:27:29 > 0:27:33- Rightly so. - It is really worth it, look at that.
0:27:33 > 0:27:34I think you should have a try.
0:27:34 > 0:27:37Do you like to put the bits in your tongue?
0:27:37 > 0:27:41You will see how the fat just completely melts and disappears.
0:27:42 > 0:27:45- Good.- Are you ready? - Oh, do you mind?
0:27:45 > 0:27:46Sorry, I'm...
0:27:46 > 0:27:49CHORAL MUSIC
0:27:49 > 0:27:51- It is communion, it's taking the... - Yeah, yeah.
0:27:51 > 0:27:53It's melted away on my tongue.
0:27:53 > 0:27:56We are in the Vatican now.
0:27:56 > 0:27:59It's so good. I mean, there's nothing like it.
0:27:59 > 0:28:02When you taste it, you think you are in heaven.
0:28:02 > 0:28:04It's like a religious experience, I hate to say it.
0:28:04 > 0:28:06We went from the Vaticano to heaven.
0:28:07 > 0:28:12And, talking of heavenly things, this, after Santiago de Compostela,
0:28:12 > 0:28:16is one of the most holy places in the whole of Spain.
0:28:16 > 0:28:19Well, this is the monastery of Santa Maria de Guadalupe
0:28:19 > 0:28:20and it's rather important.
0:28:20 > 0:28:23In fact, very important, gastronomically.
0:28:23 > 0:28:27And the reason it's so important is because Queen Isabella,
0:28:27 > 0:28:29who actually gave Christopher Columbus the money
0:28:29 > 0:28:33to set off in three ships and discover the Americas,
0:28:33 > 0:28:35had a palace next door.
0:28:35 > 0:28:37And when he came back... Well, first of all,
0:28:37 > 0:28:40he gave thanks to Santa Maria
0:28:40 > 0:28:45for saving him on a very, very rough voyage back from the Americas,
0:28:45 > 0:28:48but then he presented to Queen Isabella and Ferdinand,
0:28:48 > 0:28:51a lot of the things that he'd found on his voyage.
0:28:51 > 0:28:55I mean, it must have been absolutely fabulous.
0:28:55 > 0:28:59Really, the thought of him turning up with all these exotic fruit and vegetables
0:28:59 > 0:29:01that nobody had ever seen before -
0:29:01 > 0:29:04tomatoes, peppers, potatoes,
0:29:04 > 0:29:06and indeed, he brought some Native Indians
0:29:06 > 0:29:08into the court, as well.
0:29:08 > 0:29:13Really, you know, if you can conjure up that sort of image in your mind
0:29:13 > 0:29:16it would have been a really significant point in history.
0:29:18 > 0:29:20It's interesting to me that it's always shepherds
0:29:20 > 0:29:22who find miraculous things.
0:29:22 > 0:29:25In other words, the meek and humble.
0:29:25 > 0:29:27For example, they found St James' bones
0:29:27 > 0:29:31in a field now called Santiago de Compostela.
0:29:31 > 0:29:33And here, also in a field, they found not bones,
0:29:33 > 0:29:36but an incredibly old wooden Madonna,
0:29:36 > 0:29:39which is the very core of the monastery at Guadalupe.
0:29:39 > 0:29:43And thousands of worshipers every year come to pay homage to her,
0:29:43 > 0:29:47not just from Spain, but from the world over.
0:29:51 > 0:29:55Sometimes, I wish such miracles had the same resonance today,
0:29:55 > 0:29:58but we live in cynical times.
0:30:05 > 0:30:07I think it was most fitting
0:30:07 > 0:30:11to have that ham on my last day in Extremadura.
0:30:11 > 0:30:15Now, I'm moving south to the largest region in Spain,
0:30:15 > 0:30:18and probably the most famous, certainly the sunniest.
0:30:18 > 0:30:22A place associated with passion, flamenco, sherry and Carmen -
0:30:22 > 0:30:25the city of Seville.
0:30:26 > 0:30:30MUSIC: Prelude from Carmen by Georges Bizet
0:30:31 > 0:30:34If I had to choose any city in the whole of Spain,
0:30:34 > 0:30:36then it would be this one.
0:30:36 > 0:30:40I think it's the most sensuous and seductive of anywhere I've been.
0:30:40 > 0:30:44Maybe it's the intensity of the orange blossom.
0:30:44 > 0:30:47Lord Byron said it was a city full of beautiful women,
0:30:47 > 0:30:50as well as the sweetest oranges.
0:30:50 > 0:30:53As a great fan of Bizet's opera Carmen,
0:30:53 > 0:30:55it's come as a really pleasant surprise
0:30:55 > 0:30:59to come here to the tobacco factory where she worked
0:30:59 > 0:31:01and see how grand it is.
0:31:01 > 0:31:04There's these friezes over there of natives smoking tobacco,
0:31:04 > 0:31:09and the ships bringing the tobacco over from the Americas to Spain.
0:31:10 > 0:31:14Of course, Carmen to me, is the sort of, I suppose,
0:31:14 > 0:31:16every man should know a Carmen,
0:31:16 > 0:31:19or have known a Carmen somewhere in their life.
0:31:19 > 0:31:21Cos to me, she embodies that sort of like
0:31:21 > 0:31:26dangerous female sexuality and it's so intertwined with Seville, really.
0:31:26 > 0:31:28I mean, if you think of the flamenco and the heat,
0:31:28 > 0:31:32and the bull-fighting and the toreadors and the...
0:31:32 > 0:31:35All that sort of really serious romance, it's...
0:31:35 > 0:31:39To me, Seville really is what Spain is all about.
0:31:47 > 0:31:49I read that Lord Byron had the time of his life here,
0:31:49 > 0:31:53mostly escaping from the amorous advances of his landlady,
0:31:53 > 0:31:58which is where he got the inspiration to write his version
0:31:58 > 0:32:01of the Don Juan legend, set here in Seville.
0:32:01 > 0:32:05But this time, Don Juan isn't the great lover and pursuer of women,
0:32:05 > 0:32:08but a man easily seduced.
0:32:08 > 0:32:11And while we're on the subject of romance,
0:32:11 > 0:32:14it's never too far away in Seville.
0:32:16 > 0:32:20I expect it's in the guide books, but just walking across this bridge,
0:32:20 > 0:32:24across the Guadalquivir River and just saw all these padlocks here.
0:32:24 > 0:32:27I was thinking, "Oh, maybe it's to tie up bicycles," but erm...
0:32:27 > 0:32:30Then I started looking at them and they've all got names on them
0:32:30 > 0:32:33like Claudio and Sara,
0:32:33 > 0:32:35and Christian and Angela,
0:32:35 > 0:32:38and I'm thinking, "No, no, it's like a love tryst."
0:32:38 > 0:32:41I mean, this is an incredibly famous spot here.
0:32:41 > 0:32:43You've got a lovely view of the cathedral,
0:32:43 > 0:32:47the famous river, the Triana, which is the flamenco quarter.
0:32:47 > 0:32:52So, I think it's people, like, locking their love together in somewhere really special.
0:32:52 > 0:32:55There's nowhere much more special than this in the whole of Spain
0:32:55 > 0:32:59because this is where Columbus arrived with his three boats
0:32:59 > 0:33:02and unloaded all those things that we now take for granted,
0:33:02 > 0:33:06like peppers, tomatoes, potatoes and loads of gold and silver.
0:33:06 > 0:33:09I suppose you could say this is where the wealth of Spain
0:33:09 > 0:33:13in the 15th and 16th century - this is where it all came from.
0:33:17 > 0:33:20Shortly after Columbus came back from the Americas,
0:33:20 > 0:33:23little cafe's called antigua abaceria's
0:33:23 > 0:33:26opened here in Seville, and they still exist.
0:33:26 > 0:33:28They sold dishes made from the newfangled vegetables
0:33:28 > 0:33:30discovered in the New World.
0:33:30 > 0:33:35This one is run by a very hard-working chap called Ramon.
0:33:35 > 0:33:38I'm here with a friend of mine, Frank Camorra,
0:33:38 > 0:33:42a famous chef in Australia, but he also happens to be Spanish.
0:33:42 > 0:33:44I've just been watching Ramon here.
0:33:44 > 0:33:46He just like... He's doing everything.
0:33:46 > 0:33:50I mean, he's taking orders, he's taking dishes out to the customers,
0:33:50 > 0:33:55he's doing a bit of plate washing and he's cooking all the food.
0:33:55 > 0:33:58I mean, I cannot believe what he's turning out
0:33:58 > 0:34:02on just two little hot tops like that.
0:34:03 > 0:34:06I mean, when you think about it, do we need all the chefs?
0:34:06 > 0:34:09I mean, my mind's going over like a calculator.
0:34:09 > 0:34:13I'm thinking, "I don't know, maybe we got it wrong."
0:34:13 > 0:34:17See? See what I mean? He's taking that stuff out, as well.
0:34:17 > 0:34:19I didn't see a menu.
0:34:19 > 0:34:23Frank and I just asked Ramon to bring on the food.
0:34:23 > 0:34:25It was softened sweet peppers adorned with crumbled egg,
0:34:25 > 0:34:28onions and a dressing of vinegar and good olive oil.
0:34:28 > 0:34:31Then potatoes, which had been gently cooked in oil.
0:34:34 > 0:34:38Remember, this would have been a mind-blowing dish 400 years ago -
0:34:38 > 0:34:40the first potatoes in Europe.
0:34:41 > 0:34:45Now, Ramon puts in some clams and a handful of parsley,
0:34:45 > 0:34:48then on goes the lid, so the clams will open more quickly
0:34:48 > 0:34:52and share their lovely salty juice over the potatoes.
0:34:52 > 0:34:56I can't believe it when I'm looking around and thinking,
0:34:56 > 0:34:58"This was here in the 17th, 16th century."
0:34:58 > 0:35:01Mind you, it does look old enough.
0:35:01 > 0:35:04I mean, look at... Peppers. I mean, fab, don't you think?
0:35:04 > 0:35:07It's amazing to think that, you know, all this,
0:35:07 > 0:35:10all these ingredients that we just take for granted
0:35:10 > 0:35:12didn't exist before then.
0:35:12 > 0:35:14So, I mean, how did people cook food?
0:35:14 > 0:35:18How would you go without a tomato, a red pepper and a potato?
0:35:18 > 0:35:20You know, what do we do as cooks?
0:35:20 > 0:35:23I mean, what did we cook? I mean, it's unbelievable.
0:35:23 > 0:35:27- Well, all this, the potatoes particularly, and this...- Yeah.
0:35:27 > 0:35:30It just seems to... I mean, it's lovely food,
0:35:30 > 0:35:32and it's what you expect in Spain.
0:35:32 > 0:35:36It's sort of really rugged, there's no, like, finesse about it,
0:35:36 > 0:35:39but it's all about the quality of the ingredients.
0:35:39 > 0:35:42It is. To me, I mean, that's what Spanish food's about.
0:35:42 > 0:35:45It's about, you know, the ingredient being centre stage,
0:35:45 > 0:35:48you know, the food is pretty straightforward.
0:35:48 > 0:35:51It's all about, you've got this fantastic ingredient,
0:35:51 > 0:35:54don't get in the way of it, don't let the customer not enjoy it.
0:35:54 > 0:35:56As chefs, we've got to sometimes pull back.
0:35:56 > 0:36:00- I love the way that Ramon just plonks the stuff down on the table.- Yeah.
0:36:00 > 0:36:02That's it. None of this sort of like,
0:36:02 > 0:36:05fiddling around with gels and foams and all that.
0:36:05 > 0:36:08I mean, what do you think about people like Ferran Adria
0:36:08 > 0:36:10and Arzak and all the rest of them?
0:36:10 > 0:36:12I mean, they've got all these stars but...
0:36:12 > 0:36:16Erm, look, I think that they can be married together with...
0:36:16 > 0:36:17When it's done really well.
0:36:17 > 0:36:20I think ingredients are always first place.
0:36:20 > 0:36:24I think even if you ask chefs that are really into that style of cooking that,
0:36:24 > 0:36:26even for them, the ingredient is a centrepiece.
0:36:26 > 0:36:31But sometimes, I'd much rather chew a red pepper than smell one,
0:36:31 > 0:36:35or, erm, drink one through a straw, you know what I mean?
0:36:35 > 0:36:38Like, to me, the act of eating and chewing - it's basic.
0:36:38 > 0:36:43So, I'd rather eat the real thing than a deconstructed version.
0:36:43 > 0:36:45It's so sort of, argh!
0:36:45 > 0:36:49It's so sort of powerful and sort of macho and...
0:36:49 > 0:36:53Gutsy food, full of flavour, and best when it's eaten hot.
0:36:53 > 0:36:54All right, let's get on with it.
0:36:54 > 0:36:58I'm very keen on these clams, actually.
0:36:58 > 0:37:02Potatoes and clams, a simple little dish for lunch.
0:37:02 > 0:37:06It really worked and no doubt has done for years.
0:37:08 > 0:37:11Well, apparently, the first potatoes ever sold in Europe
0:37:11 > 0:37:15were sold on the cathedral steps here in Seville.
0:37:15 > 0:37:17The cathedral's built on the site of the old mosque
0:37:17 > 0:37:20and the only thing that's left is the minaret - the Giralda,
0:37:20 > 0:37:22which they now use as a bell tower.
0:37:22 > 0:37:25Nice sort of mixing of Catholic and Moorish.
0:37:25 > 0:37:28But when they built this,
0:37:28 > 0:37:31this is the biggest Gothic cathedral in the world,
0:37:31 > 0:37:33and at the time, they said,
0:37:33 > 0:37:37"Let us build a building such as posterity will think we were mad."
0:37:42 > 0:37:45Second after cathedrals for me are markets.
0:37:45 > 0:37:48This one in Seville is particularly special.
0:37:48 > 0:37:50You'll find out why in a minute,
0:37:50 > 0:37:54but in Spain, no matter how far away from the sea you find yourself,
0:37:54 > 0:37:58the fish is always spanking fresh, always.
0:37:58 > 0:38:02I think, actually, when I'm looking at a fish counter like this
0:38:02 > 0:38:04or a seafood counter, it's like, as the Cornish say,
0:38:04 > 0:38:06"I belong to be here,"
0:38:06 > 0:38:09you know, because it just makes me so happy.
0:38:09 > 0:38:13I know I'm a bit pathetic. There's always something new and interesting.
0:38:13 > 0:38:16You know, you start by looking at some squid like that
0:38:16 > 0:38:19and I can tell you, they are so fresh they're almost alive.
0:38:19 > 0:38:22I was just looking at this bag here, and saying, "Well, what are those?"
0:38:22 > 0:38:26I was asking Antonio, who owns this stall,
0:38:26 > 0:38:29and he said, "They're anemones," and you just fry them in a pan.
0:38:29 > 0:38:32Apparently, they're really good when they're crisp like that.
0:38:32 > 0:38:35And sea snails - I can't remember what these are called,
0:38:35 > 0:38:40but he was telling me that you pick one out with the spike of the other.
0:38:40 > 0:38:41Lovely stuff.
0:38:41 > 0:38:44What's really good is Antonio's got this restaurant
0:38:44 > 0:38:45just across the alley here,
0:38:45 > 0:38:48and I suppose, if you run out of something,
0:38:48 > 0:38:51he comes and gets some more, but as a customer,
0:38:51 > 0:38:54you come along here and you look at all this lovely fish,
0:38:54 > 0:38:57and there's his restaurant - well, you've got to go in there and eat it.
0:38:57 > 0:39:02MUSIC: Toreador from Carmen by Georges Bizet
0:39:05 > 0:39:08These dark morsels are the sea anemones I saw earlier.
0:39:08 > 0:39:12They're simply tossed in this flour, which is very grainy,
0:39:12 > 0:39:14almost like semolina.
0:39:15 > 0:39:18Then, they're quickly cooked in less than a minute,
0:39:18 > 0:39:21and straight out to the customer.
0:39:21 > 0:39:25They have a sweet iodine-y taste, a taste of the sea.
0:39:25 > 0:39:28But have a look at these beauties - wow!
0:39:28 > 0:39:30These are called carabineros.
0:39:30 > 0:39:32They look as if they've been cooked already.
0:39:32 > 0:39:35They go straight onto the plancha with sea salt,
0:39:35 > 0:39:38and then, the chef adorns them with a ladle of fish stock
0:39:38 > 0:39:42to keep them nice and moist, while the temperature increases.
0:39:42 > 0:39:44They're turned, and in another minute,
0:39:44 > 0:39:47they are cooked to the point of perfection.
0:39:47 > 0:39:48Thank you!
0:39:48 > 0:39:50That's it, a real taste of the Med,
0:39:50 > 0:39:55and out they go to an extremely lucky diner - me.
0:39:57 > 0:39:58It's a fabulous prawn, this.
0:39:58 > 0:40:01It has a sort of intensity of flavour.
0:40:01 > 0:40:04I was just talking to some people about these prawns,
0:40:04 > 0:40:07and they were saying like, 15, 20 years ago,
0:40:07 > 0:40:09nobody wanted to touch them.
0:40:09 > 0:40:13They were used as bait for fishing, and you just think, "Well, why?"
0:40:13 > 0:40:16I mean, this is like, the most intense flavour
0:40:16 > 0:40:21and they're more intensely, sweetly flavoured than lobster themselves.
0:40:21 > 0:40:23You think, "How could that be?" I don't know.
0:40:23 > 0:40:30But for me, it's a totally, totally wonderful new seafood sensation.
0:40:30 > 0:40:33With memories of that market in mind,
0:40:33 > 0:40:38I'm cooking a dish, common all along the Andalucian coast.
0:40:38 > 0:40:41You need two or three varieties of fish for this,
0:40:41 > 0:40:44chosen for their colour and absolute freshness,
0:40:44 > 0:40:47as well as some squid and some prawns.
0:40:47 > 0:40:49I'm filleting red mullet -
0:40:49 > 0:40:53perfect because it has lots of flavour and is dead easy to fillet.
0:40:53 > 0:40:56Well, this is crisp, fried fish, Malaga style,
0:40:56 > 0:40:59and when I first had it, the fish were quite small,
0:40:59 > 0:41:02and I just thought, "I can't be frying tiny fish like that."
0:41:02 > 0:41:04I'm not even sure if it is illegal
0:41:04 > 0:41:07to catch tiny red mullet or hake out of the Mediterranean.
0:41:07 > 0:41:10It's probably not, but it upsets people.
0:41:10 > 0:41:13So, what I thought was, take some small-ish fish,
0:41:13 > 0:41:16and cut them up into either little steaks or little fillets.
0:41:16 > 0:41:20Well, the object of this dish is to present a plate
0:41:20 > 0:41:22of crisply fried fillets,
0:41:22 > 0:41:25but in bite-size pieces with just a slice of lemon.
0:41:27 > 0:41:30I'm using hake, Spain's favourite fish,
0:41:30 > 0:41:34and squid cut into rings, which will look very Spanish.
0:41:35 > 0:41:38I hate it these days when a lot of fish shops,
0:41:38 > 0:41:41you just buy squid pouches, is what they call it.
0:41:41 > 0:41:44They just seem never to use the tentacles
0:41:44 > 0:41:45and I just love the tentacles.
0:41:45 > 0:41:48They've got great texture, lovely flavour.
0:41:48 > 0:41:51It's a bit like serving up scallops without the roe.
0:41:53 > 0:41:55I floured everything in one of these natty little sliding boxes,
0:41:55 > 0:41:58which I think are so clever.
0:41:58 > 0:42:02Then, in seriously hot olive oil, I'll fry them for less then a minute,
0:42:02 > 0:42:05moving them around in the oil to keep them separate.
0:42:05 > 0:42:08Interestingly, if you listen closely enough,
0:42:08 > 0:42:11you can hear the change of sound as they crisp up.
0:42:15 > 0:42:19You'll probably have noticed I've actually put the fish in two stages,
0:42:19 > 0:42:21and the reason for that is,
0:42:21 > 0:42:23if you put too much fish into the fryer in one go,
0:42:23 > 0:42:25it just drops the temperature of the oil
0:42:25 > 0:42:28so you don't get really crisp fish.
0:42:28 > 0:42:31So, just imagine, you're on holiday by the sea
0:42:31 > 0:42:32and anticipating supper,
0:42:32 > 0:42:35which won't be ready for an hour or so.
0:42:35 > 0:42:36Well, it is Spain.
0:42:36 > 0:42:39Pour a glass of ice cold Manzanilla,
0:42:39 > 0:42:42sit back and admire the sunset with this,
0:42:42 > 0:42:44a real bite of the sea.
0:42:49 > 0:42:51It's Saturday night. It's Seville.
0:42:51 > 0:42:55Although there are a lot of people, it's unthreatening.
0:42:55 > 0:42:57Being Seville,
0:42:57 > 0:43:01I had to go to the most authentic flamenco bar I could find.
0:43:01 > 0:43:04Not one where all the tourists turn up in buses,
0:43:04 > 0:43:08but one tucked away where the true aficionados of flamenco go.
0:43:08 > 0:43:10My God, it's cramped.
0:43:12 > 0:43:15FLAMENCO MUSIC
0:43:34 > 0:43:37'I haven't a clue, not the slightest, of what is being sung.
0:43:37 > 0:43:41'It could be about a lost love or a lost cat.
0:43:41 > 0:43:45'But I do know that flamenco is purely about melancholy,
0:43:45 > 0:43:48'tragedy mixed with fury and passion.'
0:43:48 > 0:43:51HE SINGS IN SPANISH
0:44:00 > 0:44:03The singer and dancer both take risks
0:44:03 > 0:44:06that expose their true, inner-most feelings,
0:44:06 > 0:44:09and when that happens, the audience shout, "Ole,"
0:44:09 > 0:44:11to show they've been touched by duende.
0:44:27 > 0:44:30Seville is a city of the night.
0:44:30 > 0:44:32They don't eat dinner till way after ten,
0:44:33 > 0:44:37and any good evening here, starts with the all-important tapas.
0:44:37 > 0:44:41Well, there's no doubt that tapas came from this part of Spain,
0:44:41 > 0:44:45and actually, this is the oldest tapas bar in Spain,
0:44:45 > 0:44:47founded in 1670.
0:44:47 > 0:44:50It's probably worth mentioning how tapas came...
0:44:50 > 0:44:52The word where it came from.
0:44:52 > 0:44:54And you can imagine, this is...
0:44:54 > 0:44:57In Seville, is really dusty and hot in the summer,
0:44:57 > 0:45:01and they just used to serve, obviously glasses of sherry and wine,
0:45:01 > 0:45:03with a little cover which might be a bit of bread.
0:45:03 > 0:45:07And it was like the top, a tapas, and it grew from that.
0:45:07 > 0:45:10To start with, just to cover it, then you'd start eating it,
0:45:10 > 0:45:12then you'd get a bit on top of the bread,
0:45:12 > 0:45:16and so, it became the tapas that we know and love today.
0:45:17 > 0:45:19I've come to meet Roger Davies,
0:45:19 > 0:45:23a Welshman who fell in love with Andalucia and its food,
0:45:23 > 0:45:25and now lives here full-time.
0:45:27 > 0:45:33By far the most popular drink in pretty much all the tapas bars here is fino -
0:45:33 > 0:45:36a refreshingly cold, dry sherry.
0:45:36 > 0:45:39- Here you go.- Cheers, Roger.
0:45:39 > 0:45:41- Perfect drink in a tapas bar. - Yeah, yeah.
0:45:41 > 0:45:44- Lovely tapas bar.- Fantastic place. - Is this your favourite?
0:45:44 > 0:45:47It's definitely... I'd say one of my favourites.
0:45:47 > 0:45:50I mean, it's fantastic. I mean, look at these hams here.
0:45:50 > 0:45:53- I know. - You know, they've been buying...
0:45:53 > 0:45:57The grandfather of the people who run it now,
0:45:57 > 0:46:00started buying these hams from the grandfather
0:46:00 > 0:46:03of the owner of the ham factory in 1933.
0:46:03 > 0:46:06So, they've been buying that for nearly 80 years,
0:46:06 > 0:46:09they've been working with the same producer.
0:46:09 > 0:46:10That's incredible.
0:46:10 > 0:46:13What really makes Seville for you, then?
0:46:13 > 0:46:15What is so special about it?
0:46:15 > 0:46:20- Well, it's... I mean, look at the atmosphere here. People are... - Is this like a normal...?
0:46:20 > 0:46:23Every Friday, Saturday night, it's like this.
0:46:23 > 0:46:27Like, people like to be out. People like to enjoy themselves.
0:46:27 > 0:46:29I mean, here, you can be at home,
0:46:29 > 0:46:31a couple of friends call you
0:46:31 > 0:46:33and in half an hour, you've got a party organised.
0:46:33 > 0:46:35And you'd be like, how many...
0:46:35 > 0:46:39Like, tonight, if you were with friends, how many tapas bars?
0:46:39 > 0:46:41We'd probably go to four or five bars.
0:46:41 > 0:46:44We'd come here, we'd have a drink, a few tapas,
0:46:44 > 0:46:47and depending on what we'd want to eat, we'd go from one place to another.
0:46:47 > 0:46:51- That's what doesn't work about tapas bars elsewhere... - You don't have enough.
0:46:51 > 0:46:54- You need lots of them.- You have to be able to walk from one...
0:46:54 > 0:46:58I mean, Seville has got more then 3,000 tapas bars.
0:46:58 > 0:46:59Says it all, really, doesn't it?
0:46:59 > 0:47:02If you want to eat cheese, you go to one bar,
0:47:02 > 0:47:04if you want to have seafood, you go to another place.
0:47:04 > 0:47:06This one's ham, presumably?
0:47:06 > 0:47:08Yeah, here for ham, for a lot of traditional tapas.
0:47:08 > 0:47:13Things like, er, spinach and chickpeas,
0:47:13 > 0:47:14cheeks from the Iberian pig,
0:47:14 > 0:47:17cod and tomato, they have superb cheese here.
0:47:17 > 0:47:19I mean, absolutely brilliant.
0:47:19 > 0:47:21Roger, I've just been to this flamenco bar,
0:47:21 > 0:47:24- and I mean, it was absolutely very moving.- Yeah.
0:47:24 > 0:47:28It was almost as if us and the singers were sort of like...
0:47:28 > 0:47:31- Yeah, yeah. - And I've heard this word duende.
0:47:31 > 0:47:32- Yeah.- What does it mean?
0:47:32 > 0:47:36Duende is all about when the singer suddenly gets taken over
0:47:36 > 0:47:39by some kind of spirit, some kind of passion,
0:47:39 > 0:47:42and it's as if they...
0:47:42 > 0:47:45They're sort of singing, but they've really...
0:47:45 > 0:47:47Almost in a trance.
0:47:47 > 0:47:49Also, when I was in that flamenco,
0:47:49 > 0:47:53I just sort of felt that almost the audience were part of the show.
0:47:53 > 0:47:54The audience get drawn in.
0:47:54 > 0:47:57When there's duende, passion,
0:47:57 > 0:48:00the audience get drawn into everything, they start clapping,
0:48:00 > 0:48:02they start saying, "Ole".
0:48:02 > 0:48:05It's like you become the dance yourself - you are part of it.
0:48:05 > 0:48:08- Exactly. You're drawn right in. - That is really rare.
0:48:08 > 0:48:11- It's like really good theatre. - Yeah, it's... Absolutely.
0:48:11 > 0:48:15- It's almost you are part of the whole thing.- Exactly.- Fab.
0:48:15 > 0:48:16- Exactly.- Very moving, actually.
0:48:16 > 0:48:18I know, you're quite right,
0:48:18 > 0:48:22what you felt there, was exactly as local people would say.
0:48:22 > 0:48:23Let's have the ham.
0:48:23 > 0:48:28I really like this place, and feel so lucky to have found it.
0:48:28 > 0:48:31Amongst all the tapas bars in the world,
0:48:31 > 0:48:33I had to walk into this one.
0:48:33 > 0:48:36I love the way they keep tabs on what you've had
0:48:36 > 0:48:38by writing it down on the bar.
0:48:38 > 0:48:40This is living history.
0:48:40 > 0:48:44This is the best ham that you can find anywhere in the world.
0:48:44 > 0:48:47I totally agree with you.
0:48:47 > 0:48:52- I like this sherry.- Fino, Manzanilla are just the perfect match.
0:48:52 > 0:48:57they cut through the oiliness which comes form the acorns the pig eats.
0:48:57 > 0:49:00That cuts through it completely, like no other wine.
0:49:02 > 0:49:06This makes the ham taste better and the ham makes the drink taste better.
0:49:06 > 0:49:07Exactly, exactly.
0:49:07 > 0:49:10You've hit the nail on the head, it's just superb.
0:49:13 > 0:49:15That was a fantastic evening,
0:49:15 > 0:49:18and the next morning after a pretty long drive,
0:49:18 > 0:49:24I found myself in the Alpujarras mountains south of Granada.
0:49:24 > 0:49:27The crew wouldn't let me drive campy up here.
0:49:27 > 0:49:33They had reservations concerning my driving skills, I cannot see why.
0:49:33 > 0:49:38This place was immortalised by an English writer called Gerald Brenan,
0:49:38 > 0:49:43who came here having lived through the horrors of the First World War.
0:49:43 > 0:49:45He wrote a book called South From Granada
0:49:45 > 0:49:47which turned out to be the inspiration
0:49:47 > 0:49:51for the couple I'm going to see, Chris and Anna Stuart.
0:49:51 > 0:49:54Chris was the first drummer in Genesis,
0:49:54 > 0:49:56but more important than that,
0:49:56 > 0:49:59he wrote an international best-seller
0:49:59 > 0:50:02called Driving over Lemons, which I love,
0:50:02 > 0:50:06about living up here and being self-sufficient.
0:50:06 > 0:50:10I thought that was someone about to take a pot shot at me,
0:50:10 > 0:50:13it's so far off the beaten track.
0:50:19 > 0:50:23- Cheers.- You're welcome. - Hello, you must be Chris.
0:50:23 > 0:50:27- And you must be Rick. - Hi, I'm Anna.
0:50:27 > 0:50:29- It's a big moment this.- Really?
0:50:29 > 0:50:32It's a bigger moment for us than it is for you, really.
0:50:32 > 0:50:35- I brought you some gifts from La Mancha.- Oh, goody.
0:50:35 > 0:50:39Well, people gave us loads of garlic, I mean loads of garlic.
0:50:39 > 0:50:42- I'm sure you've got lots of garlic. - Not this year, no.
0:50:42 > 0:50:46- Really? - Yeah, we've had a bad year.
0:50:46 > 0:50:49That'll keep us going for a couple of weeks.
0:50:49 > 0:50:52I hear you're going to do a sort of wild boar stew?
0:50:52 > 0:50:56Yes, we are, Is that a nice, robust red wine?
0:50:56 > 0:51:00Just the right thing for a wild boar stew.
0:51:00 > 0:51:03I didn't realise it was going to be so far away.
0:51:03 > 0:51:06I've read your book, and I loved it.
0:51:06 > 0:51:09- Well, that's very nice. - See you later.- It is really remote.
0:51:09 > 0:51:11Come on up, Rick.
0:51:11 > 0:51:15- Wow, wonderful.- Welcome. - Is it still an idyll?
0:51:15 > 0:51:19Well, it's sort of a flawed idyll.
0:51:19 > 0:51:21We still love it, we love it more and more.
0:51:21 > 0:51:25We have no regrets about coming to live here, but it's hard.
0:51:25 > 0:51:29- I don't know if you saw the valley and the damage the river did.- Yes!
0:51:29 > 0:51:32The river came raging out of that gorge in December,
0:51:32 > 0:51:34took away all the vegetation, took away our bridge.
0:51:34 > 0:51:37We were five months without a bridge.
0:51:37 > 0:51:40But, it sounds a bit silly, we sort of like it that way.
0:51:40 > 0:51:44It's nice to live next door to an untamed element.
0:51:44 > 0:51:50Whereas most of our lives are circumscribed by security and comfort,
0:51:50 > 0:51:55here things are a little bit different and we feed off that and really enjoy it.
0:51:55 > 0:51:57Yet there's other things like the wild boar,
0:51:57 > 0:51:59one of whom we're going to be eating for lunch.
0:51:59 > 0:52:03The wild boar have destroyed the vegetable patch over and over again this year.
0:52:03 > 0:52:08The foxes have killed our chickens so they're the flaws in our idyll,
0:52:08 > 0:52:11but they're the sort of flaws that you can come to terms with
0:52:11 > 0:52:15because there's something sort of raunchy and natural about it.
0:52:15 > 0:52:17We like it that way.
0:52:17 > 0:52:22Chris's lunch is going to start with a tabouleh made with bulgur wheat.
0:52:22 > 0:52:25They call it "taboolay" down in Australia.
0:52:25 > 0:52:28But today we'll have tabouleh I think.
0:52:28 > 0:52:30What you do is you get the lemon, cut it in half,
0:52:31 > 0:52:35and you squeeze it through your hand like this -
0:52:35 > 0:52:37lemon squeezers are for wooses.
0:52:37 > 0:52:40Nice you're using lemons because after all,
0:52:40 > 0:52:44- I wouldn't want to see you cooking with anything but. - Absolutely not.
0:52:44 > 0:52:46Lemons are a big part of our lives.
0:52:46 > 0:52:51So where did you get the inspiration for Driving Over Lemons?
0:52:51 > 0:52:54- It's a good title, isn't it? - Really good.
0:52:54 > 0:52:56The book sellers say the important thing about a book
0:52:56 > 0:52:58is the title and the cover.
0:52:58 > 0:53:01The content is neither here nor there.
0:53:01 > 0:53:04But it came because when you drove in through the village,
0:53:04 > 0:53:07there's a lot of lemon trees overhanging the road,
0:53:07 > 0:53:09and after a wind, when the lemons are ripe,
0:53:09 > 0:53:11hundreds of them fall on the road,
0:53:11 > 0:53:13it's like driving over a mat of lemons.
0:53:13 > 0:53:17When I first came here I couldn't bring myself to drive over them,
0:53:17 > 0:53:20because a lemon in a British supermarket
0:53:20 > 0:53:22cost you about four bob, back in those days.
0:53:22 > 0:53:24And so I would stop and go round each lemon
0:53:24 > 0:53:27until somebody said, "Drive over lemons."
0:53:27 > 0:53:32- Now I drive over lemons because there are just so many about.- Great title.
0:53:32 > 0:53:35- You did crack it.- Yeah, I think it was a good title.
0:53:35 > 0:53:39Chris was worried about stealing my limelight as a TV cook,
0:53:39 > 0:53:42but I was overjoyed to watch somebody else do it.
0:53:42 > 0:53:46He seasons the wheat with salt and black pepper,
0:53:46 > 0:53:49and then chopped onion from their garden.
0:53:49 > 0:53:50And now tomatoes.
0:53:50 > 0:53:53He swears by these local tinned ones
0:53:53 > 0:53:56because the wild boar can't get at these
0:53:56 > 0:53:59and the fresh ones aren't in their prime yet.
0:53:59 > 0:54:02So that's the tabouleh as she stands at the moment,
0:54:02 > 0:54:04and we just let her sit around
0:54:04 > 0:54:08and the bulgur wheat will absorb the juice from the tomatoes,
0:54:08 > 0:54:10the onion and the lemon juice.
0:54:10 > 0:54:13And then at the last minute before you serve it,
0:54:13 > 0:54:15you chop up your mint and your parsley,
0:54:15 > 0:54:19and then you drizzle oil all over the top of it.
0:54:19 > 0:54:22If you're really lucky, you sprinkle it with pomegranates.
0:54:22 > 0:54:24- Have we got some?- We can do that.
0:54:24 > 0:54:27We live in pomegranate country.
0:54:27 > 0:54:30Not only pomegranates but their own almonds, lightly toasted
0:54:30 > 0:54:34and sprinkled with Pimenton, and then the peppers,
0:54:34 > 0:54:38deep fried in olive oil and served with sea salt.
0:54:38 > 0:54:43Here's a lovely salad with pine nuts, poppy seeds and edible flowers.
0:54:43 > 0:54:46This is the life that his book describes
0:54:46 > 0:54:50and I'm beginning to feel I'm part of it,
0:54:50 > 0:54:53but first we start with a tabouleh with mint and parsley,
0:54:53 > 0:54:57and those pomegranate seeds that shine like rubies.
0:54:57 > 0:54:59You want a bit more?
0:54:59 > 0:55:01- That's enough, that's fine. - Nice salad.
0:55:04 > 0:55:06Chris, don't think I'm asking you a leading question,
0:55:06 > 0:55:10but if you compare Spanish food with French food,
0:55:10 > 0:55:13how would you describe Spanish food?
0:55:13 > 0:55:15Much earthier, Spain is much earthier than France.
0:55:15 > 0:55:17Everything about it is earthier.
0:55:17 > 0:55:22And I think it's one of the best places in Europe to eat nowadays.
0:55:22 > 0:55:24Rick, this is a bit different.
0:55:24 > 0:55:28There's a lot of greenery on the top, pomegranates and peeled grapes.
0:55:28 > 0:55:30We're trying to do you right.
0:55:30 > 0:55:32What's underneath it is a wild boar.
0:55:32 > 0:55:37We're getting our own back. These boars have been ravaging our vegetables
0:55:37 > 0:55:39and our farm for the last six months,
0:55:39 > 0:55:42and finally we managed to get one and put it in a pot and here it is.
0:55:42 > 0:55:44And it serves it right.
0:55:44 > 0:55:45It's very sort of "taginey".
0:55:45 > 0:55:48It's fruit in there, grapes, or something cooked in there,
0:55:48 > 0:55:51lots of spice, very dark.
0:55:51 > 0:55:55That's the great thing with pig meat.
0:55:55 > 0:55:59It sometimes looks a bit bland, but this doesn't.
0:55:59 > 0:56:02Far from it, it's got some moscatel grapes in there.
0:56:02 > 0:56:05and some black, black chocolate.
0:56:05 > 0:56:08You can't do it without chocolate, really.
0:56:08 > 0:56:11I've used it myself. It's Mexican.
0:56:11 > 0:56:14- You've been to Mexico, haven't you? - I have. It works a treat.
0:56:14 > 0:56:18So, just tell me this, thinking about Spanish friends and all that,
0:56:18 > 0:56:22if you were told you had to leave Spain like tomorrow,
0:56:22 > 0:56:27what would you most miss about living here and the whole life?
0:56:27 > 0:56:30I'd miss the outdoor life, I just love it.
0:56:30 > 0:56:33Because of the weather, everyone out on the streets,
0:56:33 > 0:56:37everyone's so warm and welcoming, like London when the sun shines,
0:56:37 > 0:56:39but here the sun shines a lot more.
0:56:39 > 0:56:41And what about you?
0:56:41 > 0:56:45Well, I feel the same as Annie in a lot of ways, she's right.
0:56:45 > 0:56:47We've developed all this stuff together.
0:56:47 > 0:56:51But to me I think the thing I'd most of all miss is orange trees,
0:56:51 > 0:56:53to have your own oranges.
0:56:53 > 0:56:56In 23 years, that's the most fundamental thing I've found
0:56:56 > 0:56:58and there's lots of other things
0:56:58 > 0:57:02that I love about the people here, about the cities,
0:57:02 > 0:57:05about the architecture, the way of life and everything.
0:57:05 > 0:57:07But if you want to pin me to the ground,
0:57:07 > 0:57:10and say one thing, it's the orange trees.
0:57:10 > 0:57:15- I'll drink to that.- Me too.- To the orange.- Yeah.- To the orange.
0:57:19 > 0:57:21So then, while I'm at it,
0:57:21 > 0:57:25I'd like to make a few toasts of my own to end this journey round Spain.
0:57:25 > 0:57:32So I say cheers to Don Quixote and his faithful companion Sancho Panza.
0:57:32 > 0:57:37Cheers to Valencian paella, cooked over orange wood.
0:57:37 > 0:57:41Cheers to the magnificent cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
0:57:41 > 0:57:45And salut to the famous garlic soup of La Mancha.
0:57:45 > 0:57:49Oh, and cheers to the wonderful black pigs
0:57:49 > 0:57:52and thanks for the brilliant ham.
0:57:52 > 0:57:56Cheers to Spain's fat, plump olives, bursting with oil,
0:57:56 > 0:58:02and cheers to Ernest Hemmingway for capturing the passion of the country.
0:58:02 > 0:58:07And here's to the wine which I love, and the famous Manchego cheese
0:58:07 > 0:58:12and the wonderful springy bread that's served everywhere.
0:58:12 > 0:58:16Here's to the people for their love of pageant and history,
0:58:16 > 0:58:20and finally here's to the magic of duende.
0:58:23 > 0:58:25Viva Espana.
0:58:41 > 0:58:43Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd
0:58:43 > 0:58:46E-mail subtitling@bbc.co.uk